Faculty of Engineering

Department of Textile Engineering

REPORT ON
Industrial Attachment
At
Fakir Apparels Ltd.
Enayethnagar, Fatullah, Narayangonj

Course Title: Industrial Attachment

Course Code: TE-418

Submitted By

Md. Shariful Alam ID: 111-23-2500

A.K.M. Rabby Shahria ID: 091-23-1430

Academic Supervisor
Md. Abdullah Al Mamun
Assistant Professor

This Report Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of
Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering.

Advance in Apparel Manufacturing Technology

Duration: From 11 September, 2014 to 28 October, 2014.

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DECLARATION

We hereby declare that, this thesis paper has been done under the
supervision of Md.Abdullah Al Mamun, Assistant Professor, Department of
Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University. We also declare that
neither this internship report nor any part of this internship report has been
submitted elsewhere for award of any degree.

Supervised By:

Md. Abdullah Al Mamun,

Assistant Professor,

Department of Textile Engineering,

Daffodil International University

Submitted By:

NAME ID

01. Md. Shariful Alam 111-23-2500

02. A.K.M. Rabby Shahria 091-23-1430

Department of Textile Engineering,

Daffodil International University

Internship Period: 11st September-28th October

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At first we would like to express our heart-felt thanks to almighty ALLAH for his
kind blessing for complete of this internship report successfully.

We would like to thank our honorable course teacher & supervisor, Md. Abdullah
Al Mamun, Assistant professor, at Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil
International University for his guidance, help and encouragement throughout the
progress of the internship report. We are very grateful for his kind advice and
instructions.

We would like to thank the Staffs who motivate us thoroughly and the other
people, who have made a significant contribution to make this report successful.
Their guide lines, suggestions & inspiration helped us a lot.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY .......................................................................................................................................... 1
2 INFORMATION ABOUT FACTORY ...................................................................................................................... 2
2.1 INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................ 2
2.2 HISTORY OF THE FACTORY ............................................................................................. 3
2.3 AT A GLANCE: ................................................................................................................. 4
2.4 SITE DIRECTION FROM DHAKA ....................................................................................... 5
2.5 KEY PRODUCT ................................................................................................................. 9
2.6 KEY FABRICS ................................................................................................................... 9
2.7 KEY CUSTOMERS-TOP 5: .............................................................................................. 10
2.8 DIFFERENT MAJOR DEPARTMENTS: ............................................................................. 13
2.9 ORGANOGRAM ............................................................................................................... 14
2.10 CLIENTS ...................................................................................................................... 15
2.11 CERTIFICATES:........................................................................................................... 16
3 DESCRIPTION OF THE ATTACHMENT: ........................................................................................................... 17
3.1 KNITTING SECTION ....................................................................................................... 17
3.1.1 Knitting ................................................................................................................... 18
3.1.2 No of Machine in the Mill ..................................................................................... 19
3.1.3 Sequence of operations of knitting section: .......................................................... 20
3.1.4 Factors concerned with knitting: .......................................................................... 21
3.1.5 Procedure of yarn requisition: .............................................................................. 21
3.1.6
FLOOR DATA COLLECTION: ............................................................................ 23
3.1.7 END PRODUCTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE: ............................ 25
3.1.8 Specification of machines in knitting section ....................................................... 26
3.2 DYEING SECTION............................................................................................................ 33
3.2.1 Dyeing ..................................................................................................................... 34
3.2.2 Introduction: .......................................................................................................... 34
3.2.3 Dyeing in Fakir Apparels Ltd.:.............................................................................. 35
3.2.4 Raw materials for dyeing: ...................................................................................... 35
3.2.5 Dyeing Machineries in Fakir Apparels Ltd.: ........................................................ 39
3.2.6 Flowchart of All Green/Turq Dk : ........................................................................ 42
3.3 SAMPLE SECTION .................................................................................................... 46
3.3.1 Sample: ................................................................................................................... 46
3.3.2 Flow chart of sample department: ........................................................................ 47
3.3.3 Sample type: ........................................................................................................... 48
3.3.4 Pattern Making: ..................................................................................................... 49
3.3.5 Marker Section:...................................................................................................... 50
3.3.6 Fabric Spreading: .................................................................................................. 50
3.4 CUTTING SECTION .................................................................................................. 52
3.4.1 Fabric CUTTING: ................................................................................................. 52
3.4.2 Process Sequence in Cutting Room: ..................................................................... 52
3.4.3 Types of cutting machine:...................................................................................... 54
3.4.4 Cutting procedure for a particular order with required time ............................... 54
3.4.5 Description of Cutting m/c: ................................................................................... 55

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3.4.6 Straight Knife Cutting M/C: .................................................................................. 55
3.4.7 Band knife: ............................................................................................................. 57
3.4.8 Disadvantage of band knife: .................................................................................. 58
3.4.9 Computer controlled knife cutting: ....................................................................... 58
3.4.10 Advantage:.............................................................................................................. 58
3.4.11 Disadvantage: ......................................................................................................... 58
3.4.12 Factors considered for choice of cutting: ............................................................. 58
3.4.13 Numbering: ............................................................................................................ 59
3.4.14 Bundling:................................................................................................................ 60
3.4.15 Bundle Card: .......................................................................................................... 60
Requirements of the Cutting Process: ................................................................................. 60
3.4.16 Cutting Tools that mostly used on cutting department in garment industry: ...... 61
3.4.17 Working principle of Straight Knife as Cutting Accessories: .............................. 62
3.5 SEWING SECTION..................................................................................................... 63
3.5.1 Sewing: ................................................................................................................... 63
3.5.2 Process Sequence of Sewing Section: ................................................................... 64
3.5.3 Name of the machines used in sewing section are: .............................................. 64
3.5.4 Activities of sewing section: ................................................................................... 65
3.5.5 Different types of stitches: ..................................................................................... 66
3.5.6 Description of Different Type Sewing Machines: ................................................ 67
3.5.7 Plain m/c: ............................................................................................................... 67
3.5.8 Over lock m/c: ........................................................................................................ 68
3.5.9 Applications:........................................................................................................... 69
3.5.10 Flat lock .................................................................................................................. 70
3.5.11 Component: ............................................................................................................ 70
3.5.12 Eye late Button holing m/c: ................................................................................... 70
3.5.13 Button Attach m/c: ................................................................................................. 71
3.5.14 Machine wise sewing thread consumption (for 1"stitch): ................................... 71
3.5.15 Different types of seam description: ...................................................................... 72
3.5.16 Different type of sewing fault: ............................................................................... 73
3.6 FINISHING SECTION ................................................................................................ 74
3.6.1 Finishing ................................................................................................................ 74
3.6.2 Process Flow Chart of Garment Finishing: ......................................................... 74
3.6.3 Work flow in the Finishing Room:........................................................................ 75
3.6.4 Materials used in garment finishing: .................................................................... 78
3.6.5 Garment Inspection: .............................................................................................. 79
Flow Chart of Garment Inspection ..................................................................................... 79
3.6.6 Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described Below: ................................... 79
3.6.7 Pressing or Folding: .............................................................................................. 80
3.7 PACKAGING: .................................................................................................................. 81
3.8 QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM ..................................................................... 83
3.8.1 Quality Assurance:................................................................................................. 83
3.8.2 Objective of quality control: .................................................................................. 83
3.8.3 Quality Management system: ................................................................................ 83
3.8.4 Acceptable quality label (AQL) -2.5: ..................................................................... 84
3.8.5 Online Quality assurance test: .............................................................................. 84

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3.8.6 Offline Quality assurance test: .............................................................................. 85
3.8.7 Flow diagram of Off-line quality control for each production: ........................... 85
3.8.8 Flow diagram of On-line quality control: ............................................................. 86
3.8.9 In process QC in cutting section: .......................................................................... 86
3.8.10 In process QC in sewing section: .......................................................................... 87
3.8.11 In process QC in finishing section: ....................................................................... 88
3.9 STORE & INVENTORY ............................................................................................. 89
Inventory............................................................................................................................... 89
Causes of maintain inventory .............................................................................................. 89
Scope of inventory control ................................................................................................... 89
3.10 UTILITIES ................................................................................................................... 92
3.10.1 Available utilities: .................................................................................................. 92
3.10.2 Sources of utilities:................................................................................................. 92
4 IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP ..................................................................................................................................... 97
4.1 IMPACT OF DIFFERENT SECTION: ................................................................................. 97
4.1.1 Impact of Sample Section: ..................................................................................... 97
4.1.2 Impact of Cutting Section:..................................................................................... 98
4.1.3 Impact of Sewing Section: ..................................................................................... 98
4.1.4 Impact of Finishing Section: ................................................................................. 99
5 CONCLUSION ......................................................................................................................................................... 100

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1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The Industrial Attachment is the most effective way for Textile Engineering student to be
achieved the knowledge about the practical field of the Textile Manufacturing. It brings an
opportunity to all the learners to enrich their academic knowledge by practicing with the experts
of the practical field of textile.

It is our pleasure that we had an opportunity to complete our two month internship at Fakir
Apparels Ltd., which is one of the most modern industries of the country.

In this report we tried to cover a short profile of FAL and major customers of Fakir Apparels
Ltd. and their different activities.

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2 INFORMATION ABOUT FACTORY

Contact & Address

Fakir Apparels Ltd.
Head Office & Factory Address
A-127-138, 142-145, B-501-503
BSCIC Hosiery Industrial Estate
Enayethnagar, Fatullah, Narayangonj
Tel: 880-2-7671684-5, 7671300, 7672660-61
Fax: 880-2-7671301
Web: http://www.fakirapparels.com

2.1 INTRODUCTION

If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would
be drinking of the water. It is always very easy to make a man understand about a
firebox by showing and lighting practically rather than describing theoretically
who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for any technical education the practical

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experience is the most important along with the theoretical knowledge. As we are
studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical
knowledge. Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the
theoretical knowledge with the practical knowledge is the ‘Industrial Attachment
period’ that comes only once in the education life.

So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial Attachment. And in addition

the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the report of
industrial attachment note book. So industrial attachment is the process where the
trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge with practical knowledge increasing
his/ her ability of work, skills, performance and attitude and so on. It also provides
sufficient knowledge about production management, productivity evaluation, work
study& efficiency, industrial management, production planning and control,
production cost analysis, inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on.
Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial
atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility.
We tried our best to prepare this note book applying our best efforts. We tried to
gather all the necessary information to make it a valuable for me as well as for
everyone. We think it will help us a lot in future in our practical life.

Fakir Apparels Ltd.:

100% Export Oriented Textile Composite Knit Manufacturing Company
established in 1998 with the vision to be a world-class quality apparels
manufacturer by satisfying social, ethical and environmental commitment.

2.2 HISTORY OF THE FACTORY

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Sixteen Years is not a long time for a garment factory to grow up and avail one of
the top positions, but Fakir Apparels is an exception. The companies who lead the
knitwear number one export sector of the country. Fakir Apparels Ltd. is one of
them. The company had a brand identity for themselves in the RMG sector.

Fakir Apparels started its expedition in 1998 with most comprehensive and
strategic planning supported by sophisticated machinery, latest technology. Skilled
workmanship, substantial marketing, proper discipline and consistent effort from
all, the company entered into the global market.

This company comprises of ultra modern plants related to garments industry such
as independent knitting, dyeing, sewing, finishing and packaging with sufficiently
supportive backward linkage facilities. A huge 10 storied building located in
BSCIC, Narayagonj, and one hour drive from Capital city Dhaka.

Values
Customer Satisfaction
Inspiring creativity
Integrity
Corporate Social responsibility
Healthy Work Environment
Commitment & Teamwork
Equal Opportunity Employer
Greener Environment Specialties

2.3 AT A GLANCE:

Total Manpower: 7500

Year Established: 1998
Current Export Markets: Germany, England, USA, Canada.
Total area of: 700, 000 square feet
Fabrics Capabilities: —

We can produce all types of knit fabric.

Single Jersey from 65 to 250 gsm, Ribs, Interlock, PK, Diff type of
Waffle & etc with elastane attachment. Also we’re doing Pima,

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CMia., Organic, Viscose, Cool max, X4Air, blended fabric all types
of functional fabric, fleece fabric.

2.4 SITE DIRECTION FROM DHAKA

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Courtesy: Google Maps

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Construction of Fakir Apparels Ltd

Courtesy: Google Maps

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Established: 1998
Managing Director: F. M. Zaman
Floor Space: 400,000 shift.
Annual Turn Over: US$ 80 million
Yearly Turnover: $80 Million
Manpower: 8000
Garments Line: 78 lines
Knitting: 20 tons/day
Dyeing: 30 tons/day
Dyeing Finishing: 50 tons/day
Garments Washing: 20000
20 pcs/day
Printing: 100000 pcs/day

Fakir Apparels Ltd. turnover in a Graph from 2001 to 2011

Turnover( Mill-USD)
Mill
$90.00
$80.00
$70.00
$60.00
$50.00
$40.00
$30.00
$20.00
$10.00
$-
Year Year Year Year Year Year Year Year Year Year Year
2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011

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2.5 KEY PRODUCT

2.6 KEY FABRICS

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2.7 KEY CUSTOMERS-TOP 5:

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H&M C&A Tom Tailor s.Oliver G.Star

2%
8%
12%

19% 59%

Social Commitment:

Fakir Apparels Ltd, understand their responsibilities towards society and

environment in which they operate. They give prime consideration to health &
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safety, environmental protection & accident prevention in line with any other
phases of operation or administration. They provide all first aid and free medical
service to workers. As well, Fakir Apparels Ltd creating social awareness on
related society.

2.8 DIFFERENT MAJOR DEPARTMENTS:

To ensure smooth running of various activities, some departments are given

bellow:

1. Knitting department:
a. Knitting
b. Inspection

2. Knit dyeing department:

a. Batch section
b. Store house for dyes & chemicals
c. Color Lab
d. Dyeing Section
e. Finishing & Delivery
f. Washing
g. Quality Control

3. Garments department:
a. Merchandising
b. Cutting
c. CAD Section
d. Sewing
e. Embroidery
f. Sample
g. Printing
h. Packaging

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2.9 ORGANOGRAM

The organogram of the administration is as follows:

Organogram of Administration Organogram of Operation

Chairman Senior manager
↓ ↓
Managing director Assistant manager
↓ ↓
Director Production officer
↓ ↓
Executive director Shift in charge
↓ ↓
General Manager Supervisor
↓ ↓
Deputy General Manager Senior operator
↓ ↓
Assistant general manager Operator
↓ ↓
Production manager Assistant operator
↓
Helper

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2.10 CLIENTS

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2.11 CERTIFICATES:

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3 DESCRIPTION OF THE ATTACHMENT

TACHMENT:

3.1 KNITTING SECTION

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3.1.1 KNITTING
The term knitting describes the technique of constructing textile structures by
forming a continuous length of yarn into columns of vertically intermeshed loops.
It relies heavily on the availability of fine, strong, uniformly spun yarn. The term
‘knitting’ dates from the mid-sixteenth century, earlier words such as the Saxon
‘cnyttan’ and the Sanskrit ‘nahyat’ being less precise, indicating that knitting,
probably evolved from sources such as the experience gained by knotting and
Coptic knitting.

Knitting Structure:

Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row after row of intermeshed
loops. The newlyfed
yarn is converted into a new loop in each needle hook. The needle then draws the
new loop
head first through the old (fabric) loop, which it has retained from the previous
knitting cycle. The needles, at the same time, release, (cast-off or knock-over) the
old loops so that they hang suspended by their heads from the feet of the new loops
whose heads are still held in the hooks of the needles.
A cohesive knitted loop structure is thus
produced by a combination of the intermeshed
needle loops and yarn that passes from needle
loop to needle loop.

Figure: Knitting Structure

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3.1.2 NO OF MACHINE IN THE MILL

In Fakir Apparels mainly two types of machines are used. These are Circular
knitting and Flat bed knitting machine. There is three floors in knitting section and
three floor consists of 68 Circular knitting machine & 11 Flat bed knitting
machine. In circular knitting, 5 machine are interlock for interlock production, 17
machine are rib production and rest machines are single jersey machines.

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Knitting Floor

3.1.3 SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS OF KNITTING SECTION:

Booking received from buyer

Make sample (R & D)

Sample approved

Work order

Planning

Bulk – production

Yarn package in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder

Cam Setting according to design

Knitting action perform

Withdraw the rolled fabric

Weighting

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Numbering

Grey inspection

Dyeing & finishing

Final inspection

Packing

Delivery to Buyer

3.1.4 FACTORS CONCERNED WITH KNITTING:

Machine gauge
Machine dia.
Yarn count
Lycra % (if necessary)
Finished GSM
Finished width
Stitch length
Yarn tension during feeding

3.1.5 PROCEDURE OF YARN REQUISITION:

Booking by merchandiser or marketing department

Determination of yarn count by operation department

Giving requisition

Supply chain

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Store receives as per invoice, packing list & L.C.

Issue

Sample to lab. For quality

Q.C. pass

Pass Fail

Stock gives MRIR Material return to supplier

Material input in ledger (A book of financial account)

Physically arrangement in stock as per location

Issue for knitting

Description of production process:

In every mill, the concerned section maintains sequences in production processing.

It is also followed in this mill where I completed my industrial attachment. The
process sequences are in list below:

1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from PMC (Planning,

Monitoring & Controlling) section in accordance with consumer requirements.
Then he informs or orders senior Executive about it.

2) Senior Executive informs management trainee and decides about m/c in which
the production will be running.

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3) Management trainee calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take
decision about m/c for production considering m/c condition, production capacity,
maintenance complexity etc.

4) Operators with experienced mechanical fitter adjust required stitch length and
grey GSM (gram per square meter) for required final GSM.

5) Supervisor check daily production regularity and make operators conscious

about finishing in due time.

6) Operators operate machine in highly attention as if there were no faults in the

fabrics. If he becomes sure about any fabric fault, then he call for mechanical fitter
in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in-charge.
He then comes in spot.
3.1.6 FLOOR DATA COLLECTION:

Fabric type GSM Yarn count Stitch length M/c Finished

dia x width
Gaug
e
Plain 115 40/1 2.54 30x2 33”
8 Tube
Single 135 30/1 2.68 36x2 72”
4 Open
Jersey 150 28/1 2.75 36x2 74”
4 Open
160 26/1 2.70 36x2 62”
4 Open
Lycra H.F.L 32/1+20D 2.85 30 64”
190 X28 0PEN
Single F.F.L 30/1+40D 2.98 30 64”
250 X28 0PEN
Jersey 190 32/1+20D 2.85 30 64”
X28 0PEN
160/65 32/1 2.7 30 43”
X24 TUBE
210/20 22/1 2.72 28 76”
X24 OPEN

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Single 210/20 22/1 2.75 25 35.5”TU
X24 BE
Lacoste 220 22/1 2.75 24 66”
X24 OPEN
220 22/1 2.75 25 66”
X24 OPEN
215/20 24/1 2.64 32 46”
X24 TUBE
Lycra 210 28/1+40D 2.85 26 66”
s/lacost X24 OPEN
160/65 30/1 2.65 30 43”
X24 TUBE
Double 160/65 30/1 2,65 28 41”
X24 TUBE
lacost 160/65 30/1 2.58 30 43”
X24 TUBE
160/65 30/1 2.52 30 43”
X24 TUBE
175 34/1 2.54 40 37”
X18 TUBE
200 30/1 2.52 38 74”
X18 OPEN
200 30/1 2.64 38 37”
X18 TUBE
1 X 1 RIB 200 30/1 2.54 38 68”
X18 OPEN
200 32/1 2.54 38 41”
X20 TUBE
200 28/1 2.58 38 74”
X18 OPEN
220 28/1 2.52 38 68”
X18 OPEN
1X1 Lycra 280 28/1 +70 2.85 34 32”
X18 TUBE
Rib 380 34/1+70D 3.10 36 34”
X16 TUBE
2X2 300 24/1 3.3 40 24”
X18 TUBE
RIB 380 20/1 3.42 40 24”

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X18 TUBE
2X2LYCRA 340 24/1 +70D 3.45 36X1 22”
RIB 8 TUBE

Pique 220 20/1 2.78 26X2 37”

4 TUBE
260 30/1 +75D+26/2 K-4,B-3,L-1.5 30X2 68”
0 OPEN
Fleece 280 34/1 +75D+20/2 K-3.5,B- 30X2 68”
3.25,L-1.6 0 OPEN
270 32/1+12/1 K-4,B-3.3,L- 30X2 74”
1.6 0 OPEN
300 32/1 +12/1 K-4.1,B-3.3,L- 30X2 74”
1.6 0 OPEN

Lycra 260 30/1+70+26/1+20D K-4,B-3.1,L- 30X2 68”

1.5 0 OPEN
fleece 260 30/1+70D+26/1+20D K-4,B-3,L-1.5 30X2 OPEN
0
Engineerin 165 26/1 Dyed 2.75 30x2 64”
g 4 OPEN
stripe 190 26/1 Dyed 3 36x2 76”
4 OPEN
200 26/1 Dyed 2.85 30x2 64”
4 OPEN

3.1.7 END PRODUCTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE:

Single Jersey M/C:

Single jersey
ELASTANE SINGLE JERSEY
YARN DYED SINGLE JERSEY
POLO PIQUE
SINGLE LACOSTE
DOUBLE LACOSTE
THREE THREAD FLEECE
THREE THREAD ELASTANE FLEECE
TWO THREAD FLEECE(TERRY FLEECE)
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Double Jersey M/C:

1*1 RIB
1*1 ELASTANE RIB
YARN DYED RIB
2*2 RIB
2*2 ELASTANE RIB
3*2 RIB
5*2 RIB
FLAT BACK RIB
INTERLOCK
DROP NEEDLE
WAFFLE
MESH

3.1.8 SPECIFICATION OF MACHINES IN KNITTING SECTION

Machine no : A01 Machine no : Machine no :A03

Machine type : Single A02 Machine type : Single
jersey Machine type: Single jersey knitting m/c
Circular knitting m/c jersey Circular knitting Brand name : JIUNN
Brand name : JIUNN m/c LONG MACHINE CO.
LONG MACHINE CO. Brand name : JIUNN LTD.
LTD. LONG MACHINE CO. Origin :
Origin : LTD. Taiwan
Taiwan Origin : No of needles :2544
No of needles : 3000 Taiwan No of feeders :102
No of feeders : 120 No of needles :2712 Gauge :24
Gauge :24 No of feeders :108 Diameter :34˝
Diameter : 40˝ Gauge :24
Diameter :36˝

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Machine no :A04 Machine no :A13 Machine no :A12
Machine type: Single Machine type: Single Machine type : Single
jersey circular knitting jersey jersey
m/c Circular knitting m/c Circular knitting m/c
Brand name :JIUNN Brand name : Brand name : JIUNN
LONG MACHINE CO. JIUNN LONG LONG MACHINE CO.
LTD. MACHINE CO. LTD. LTD.
Origin : Origin : Origin :
Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan
No of needles :2400 No of needles :2136 No of needles :2756
No of feeders :96 No of feeders :76 No of feeders :80
Gauge :24 Gauge :18 Gauge :18
Diameter :32˝ Diameter :38˝ Diameter :40˝

Machine no :A11 Machine no :A10 Machine no :A09

Machine type: Single Machine type: Rib Machine type : Single
jersey circular knitting Circular knitting m/c jersey circular knitting
m/c Brand name : m/c
Brand name : JIUNN JIUNN LONG Brand name: JIUNN
LONG MACHINE CO. MACHINE CO. LTD. LONG MACHINE CO.
LTD. Origin : LTD.
Origin : Taiwan Origin : Taiwan
Taiwan No of needles :2484 No of feeders :90
No of needles :2136 No of feeders :88 Gauge :24
No of feeders :76 Gauge :18 Diameter :30˝
Gauge :18 Diameter :44˝
Diameter :42˝

Note:
 A16,A07,A14,A15 no. machines are similar to A02 no. machine
 A04 no. machine is similar to A08 no. machine
 A05,A06 no. machines are similar to A01 no. machine

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Machine no :B01 Machine no : B02 Machine no : B04
Machine type : Single Machine type : Single Machine type : Single
jersey jersey jersey
circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Origin: Taiwan Origin : Taiwan Origin : Taiwan
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Brand name: JIUNN Brand name: JIUNN
MACHINE CO. LTD. LONG MACHINE CO. LONG MACHINE CO.
No of needles :1968 LTD. LTD.
No of feeders :76 No of needles :2112 Dia. : 30˝
Gauge :24 No of feeders :84 Gauge : 24
Diameter :26˝ Gauge :24 No. of feeders :90
Diameter :28˝
no of needle: 2256

Machine no : B06 Machine no : B10 Machine no :B12

Machine type : Single Machine type : Single Machine type : Single
jersey jersey jersey
circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Origin : Taiwan Origin : Taiwan Origin :
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Brand name: JIUNN Taiwan
MACHINE CO. LTD. LONG MACHINE CO. Brand name: JIUNN
No of needles :2400 LTD. LONG MACHINE CO.
No of feeders :96 No of needles :2136 LTD.
Gauge :24 No of feeders :102 No of needles :2262
Diameter :32˝ Gauge :20 No of feeders :108
Diameter :34˝ Gauge :20
Diameter :36˝

Machine no : B13 Machine no : B15 Machine no : B16

Machine type :Single jersey Machine type : Single Machine type :Single
circular knitting m/c jersey jersey
Origin : Taiwan circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Origin : Origin : Taiwan
MACHINE CO. LTD. Taiwan Brand name: JIUNN
No of needles :2400 Brand name: JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO.
No of feeders :96 LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.
Gauge :28 LTD. No of needles :2712

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Diameter :32˝ No of needles :2544 No of feeders :108
No of feeders :102 Gauge :24
Gauge :24 Diameter :36˝
Diameter :34˝

Machine no : B17 Machine no :B25 Machine no :B27

Machine type: Single jersey Machine type : Single Machine type: Single
circular knitting m/c jersey jersey
Origin : Taiwan circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Origin : Japan Origin :
MACHINE CO. LTD. Brand name: Taiwan
No of needles :2880 FUKUHARA Brand name: JIUNN
No of feeders :114 No of needles :1884 LONG MACHINE CO.
Gauge :24 No of feeders :90 LTD.
Diameter :38˝ Gauge :20 No of needles :3000
Diameter :30˝ No of feeders :120
Gauge :24
Diameter :40˝

Machine no : B29 Machine no : B30 Machine no : B38

Machine type :Single jersey Machine type : Single Machine type :Rib
circular knitting m/c jersey circular knitting machine
Origin : Taiwan circular knitting m/c Origin :
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Origin :
Germany
MACHINE CO. LTD. Taiwan
Brand name:MAYER
No of needles :3168 Brand name: JIUNN
No of feeders :120 AND CIE
LONG MACHINE CO.
Gauge :24 LTD. No of needles :1696
Diameter :42˝ No of needles :3312 No of feeders :66
No of feeders :132 Gauge :18
Gauge :24 Diameter :30˝
Diameter :44˝
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Machine no :C07 Machine no : C05 Machine no : C04

Machine type : Rib circular Machine type :Rib circular Machine type : Rib
knitting m/c knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Origin: Taiwan Origin : Taiwan Origin : Taiwan
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Brand name: JIUNN Brand name: JIUNN
MACHINE CO. LTD. LONG MACHINE CO. LONG MACHINE CO.
No of needles :2040 LTD. LTD.
No of feeders :72 No of needles :1800 Dia. : 42˝
Gauge :18 No of feeders :64 Gauge: 18
Diameter :36˝ Gauge :18 No. of feeders :84
Diameter :32˝
No of needle : 2376

Machine no : C03 Machine no : C01 Machine no :C08

Machine type: Rib circular Machine type : Rib Machine type : Interlock
knitting m/c circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Origin : Taiwan Origin : Taiwan Origin :
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Brand name: JIUNN Taiwan
MACHINE CO. LTD. LONG MACHINE CO. Brand name: JIUNN
No of needles :2256 LTD. LONG MACHINE CO.
No of feeders :80 No of needles :2136 LTD.
Gauge :18 No of feeders :76 No of needles :2880
Diameter :40˝ Gauge :18 No of feeders :72
Diameter :38˝ Gauge :24
Diameter :38˝

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Machine no : C16 Machine no : C12 Machine no : C11
Machine type :Rib Machine type : Rib Machine type : Rib
circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c circular knitting m/c
Origin : Taiwan Origin : Origin :
Brand name: JIUNN LONG Taiwan Taiwan
MACHINE CO. LTD. Brand name: JIUNN Brand name: JIUNN
No of needles :2544 LONG MACHINE CO. LONG MACHINE CO.
No of feeders :72 LTD. LTD.
Gauge :24 No of needles :2484
Diameter :34˝ No of needles :1920
No of feeders :88
No of feeders :68
Gauge :18
Gauge :18
Diameter :44˝
Diameter :34˝

Note:
 C09, C10 no. machines are similar to C07no. machine
 C06 no. machine is similar to C05 no. machine
 C02 no. machines are similar to C01 no. machine
 C17,C11,C13 no. machines are similar to C16 no. machine

Specification of Auto stripe machine:

Machine Brand name No. of Gauge Diameter Mfg. Model

no. needle (Inch) country
C19 FUKUHARA 2268 24 34 JAPAN VX-
R8Y3RE
C18 FUKUHARA 2245 18 34 JAPAN V-FY6

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Auto rib striper Auto S/J striper

Remarks:
All the machines are well arranged and availability of sufficient spaces among the
machines facilitates the movement of personnel and smooth production.

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3.2 DYEING SECTION

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3.2.1 DYEING

3.2.2 INTRODUCTION:

The objective of dyeing is the uniform coloration of the mass of fibers constituting
the material,
usually to match a pre-specified color. Any significant difference in color from that
requested by the customer, and any unevenness of the color of a fabric, will be
immediately apparent. Many factors can influence the final color appearance.
These include fiber characteristics such as the luster, denier, and staple length,
texture, and cross-section, as well as the cloth construction. Since a client’s colored
sample is rarely of the same material as that to be dyed, dye house laboratories
devote considerable time to dyeing trials aimed at developing recipes to reproduce
the desired color on the given goods. Coloration of a textile material is achieved in
a number of different ways:
1. Direct dyeing, in which the dye in the aqueous solution in contact with the
material is gradually absorbed into the fibers because of its inherent substantively

2. Dyeing with a soluble precursor of the dye, which forms an insoluble pigment
deep within the fibers on treatment after dyeing

3. Direct dyeing followed by chemical reaction of the dye with appropriate groups
in the fiber;

4. Adhesion of the dye or pigment to the surface of the fibers using an appropriate
binder.

All of these methods but the last require that the fibers, at some stage, absorb the
dye, or an appropriate precursor, from an aqueous solution. This process is
essentially reversible. Note, however, that precipitation of a pigment and reaction
with the fiber are irreversible chemical processes.

Theory of Dyeing:
Dyeing theory covers a wide range of subjects mainly in the area of physical
chemistry. As for all theory, the aim is to provide a set of hypotheses that explain

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the behavior of known dyeing systems, and which are capable of predicting what
will happen in a new situation. Dyeing theory has many qualitative aspects that are
useful in explaining practical dyeing, but the physico-chemical measurements on
dyeing processes that provide quantitative data are often far removed from actual
dyeing practice. Some of the subjects included in dyeing theory are:

1. The state of dyes in solution and in the fiber during and after dyeing
2. The rates of dyeing processes and how these are influenced by mass-transfer of
dye from the bath solution to the dye–fiber interface, and by diffusion of the dye
from the interface into the fiber
3. The phenomena occurring at the dye–fiber interface such as dye molecule
adsorption and the effects of surface potentials
4. The nature of the interactions between dye and fiber molecules, which are the
origin of substantively
5. The treatment of dyeing as a thermodynamic equilibrium and its description in
terms of thermodynamic variables
6. The theory of fiber structure and how this influences dyeing rates and
equilibrium.

3.2.3 DYEING IN FAKIR APPARELS LTD.:

In Fakir Apparels Ltd. dyeing process mainly occurs in discontinuous process.
That’s why here process is very easy and can be described with easy manner. Here
order is mainly comes for knitted fabric dyeing like single jersey, double jersey,
Lycra single jersey, terry or locust fabric, mainly produced from cotton or
polyester. That’s why here mainly two dyes are used.
1. Reactive dyes for Cotton
2. Disperse dyes for Polyester.
Besides this pigment dyeing is done for garment dyeing.

3.2.4 RAW MATERIALS FOR DYEING:

Reactive dyes:

Sunsol Black EPHC 1000 $ 4.70

Sunfix Yellow S3R 1500 $ 4.70
Sunfix Red S3B 150% 1500 $ 7.50
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Sunfix Navy SBF 1000 $ 4.00
Sunsol Black B 1000 $14.50
Sunfix Yellow SN2R 500 $18.55
Sunfix Red SN2BL 500 $20.65
Sunfix Blue SNR 1000 $ 8.50
Sunfix Yellow SPR 100 $ 7.50
Sunfix Red SG 75 $20.50
Sunfix Blue SBRN 1000 $ 9.62
Sunfix Red MFD 200 $ 5.65
Sunfix Yellow MF-3RD 1500 $ 5.00
Sunfix Yellow SPD conc 2000 $ 5.00
Sunfix Red SPD 2000 $ 7.30
Sunfix Navy SPD 2000 $ 8.90
Sunfix Yellow S4GL 150% 300 $18.50
Sunfix Yellow SF 50 $18.50
SunfixBlu SF 50 $14.60
Sunfix Red SF 100 $ 5.50
Sunfix Red S2B 50 $18.20
Sunfix Scarlet S2G 50 $ 8.60
Sunsol Violet 5R 50 $10.50
Sunsol Blue R Special 300 $10.50
Sunsol Turq Blue G 266% 150 $ 7.55
Sunsol Orange SRN 50 $ 7.95
Sunsol Yellow SRN 100 $ 8.65
Sunsol Red SBN 100 $16.50
Sunsol Blue BB 133% 100 $12.10
Sunsol Blue SRN 100 $ 7.20
Bezaktive Black S Max 4000 $ 6.80
Bezaktive Red S3B 500 $ 7.80
Bezaktive Yellow S3R 500 $ 7.80
Bezaktive Red SLF 100 $23.20
Bezaktive Orange SRL 200 $11.30
Bezaktive Turquoise Blue 200 $ 6.00
Bezaktive Blue SGLD 600 $17.20
Besaktive Blue SLF 150 $17.20
Bezaltive Yellow SLF 150 $11.80
Bezaktive Yellow S8G 100 $12.80
Bezaktive Black SLF 1000 $15.50
Bezaktive Navy SLF 500 $20.70
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Disperse dyes:

Disperse Yellow 8GFF200%

Taicron Black HWTECO
Taicron Black WW-GST
Taicron Blue2RHWT
Taicron Blue EACT
Taicron Blue XFT
Taicron Bril BlueSE-GLT
Taicron Deep Red XF-T
Taicron Golden yellow WRST
Taicron Navy Blue HWT
Taicron Navy Blue XF-T
Taicron Red E-ACT

CHEMICALS:

Acid buffer Anticreasing Anti foam Basic Cationic

chemicals softner
Eulysin S Ac-200 Antifoam AFJ Acetic acid Belfasin 44
cone
Merapen KP Biavin-109 Kappasol Caustic soda
AF2000
Breviol PAM- Gluber salt
N
Detergent Kappavon CL Fixing Agent Hydrogen Levelling
peroxide agent
E.WetWell Primasol Jet Albafix ECO Soda Ash Kappaquest
A41
Foryl BGL Rucolin JES Fixos FDR Lekol SN
Kappawet Hydrocol Sun Levegal RL
BOS
Rucozen NZA KappafixGG100
Rucozen Lamfix -L
WBL
Wetto NOF
Neutralizer Non ionic OBA for cotton Peroxide Killer Levelling

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softner (Polyster)
Heptol DBL Perapret F- Kappaphor-ME Pk-20 Croscolor
PEB PLD
Heptol EMG Tubingal- Syno white 4BK Verolan NBO Satavin SUE
1112
Neutracid Tuboblanc HV- Visco color
NVM S3
Tuboblanc Rub
Tuboblanc –
EBF
Tuboblanc-
HAPD
Ultraphor -PFA
Enzyme Sequester Resin Silicon Softner Soaping
HDL160 AntisilConz Condensole- Adasil ME Avolan IS
FAM
Retrocell Plx Chelate DBC Fixapret F-ECO Antipil Jet Cyclanon xc
–W
Chemsoft Lurotex Kappasoft BD DSP-1250
MAK-P TX2504
Kappaquest – Perapret Kappasoft – Setamol WS
FE Booster SM
Securon-540 Polyavain-LPE
Ultratex S
Stabilizer Stripping Utility
agent
Contavan GD Dyapol ECO Biocide LF2
Stagen B Meropan- Biocide TS15
RED
Sodium Common salt
Hydrose
Sodium
hypocloride

REMARKS:
Fakir Apparels ltd. uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics
from best quality yarn. They use the best quality dyes like REMAZOL,
REACTRON, REACTIVE, TERACIL etc. During the time of using dyestuff

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they give importance upon the quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and
chemicals.

3.2.5 DYEING MACHINERIES IN FAKIR APPARELS LTD.:

In Fakir Apparels ltd there mainly two types of machines .One is winch dyeing and
another is jet dyeing machines. There are two floors or two section of dyeing. Such
as

Dyeing floor 1: This floor consists of 13 machines of well equipped high-tech such
as ATYC from Spain, THIES from Germany, FONGS from China, and AK from
Taiwan.

Dyeing floor 2: This floor also consists of 9 machines including sample dyeing
machine with mentioned company made. Here total capacity 25000 kgs/day.

Dyeing Floor -01

SL Brand Origin Capacity(kg) Max.Temp

1 ATYC SPAIN 300 135
2 ATYC SPAIN 600 135
3 ATYC SPAIN 600 135
4 ATYC SPAIN 900 135
5 Fong's CHINA 1000 98
6 Fong's CHINA 1000 98
7 AK TAIWAN 200 98
8 AK TAIWAN 200 98
9 Fong's CHINA 1500 98
10 Fong's CHINA 1500 98
11 Thies Germany 480 98
12 Thies Germany 300 98
13 Thies Germany 700 98
S2 ATYC SPAIN 80 135
S3 Fong's CHINA 100 130
S4 Fong's CHINA 30 130
S5 Fong's CHINA 30 130
S6 Fong's CHINA 12 130
S7 Fong's CHINA 12 130

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Dyeing
Floor 02

SL Brand Origin Capacity(kg) Max.Temp

1 Thies German 150 130
2 Thies German 300 130
3 Thies German 300 130
4 Thies German 500 130
5 Thies German 500 130
6 Thies German 800 130
7 Thies German 600 130
Thies i-
8 master German 1600 130

Casting details of a machine: The machine which we want to brief it is situated on

the second floor & 8 no. machine. This machine has some extra ability for dyeing
that maintains a liquor ratio of 1:4.
Here is a brief

Company Name: THIES

Type: Farbekessel i master
Chamber: 1
Permissible Working over pressure: 0.3 Mpa
Test pressure: 0.47 Mpa
Working temperature: (0 – 145 ° C)
Capacity Volume: 31732 lt
Manufacturer: Germany

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Figure Farbekessel iMaster (Winch/Jet dyeing of 6 nozzles)

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Fig: New Machine (ATHENA 2) appointed in floor 2 in Fakir Apparels

3.2.6 FLOWCHART OF ALL GREEN/TURQ DK :

50°C-70°C
Scouring (110°C, 20 min)
+
Bleaching
↓
Drain
↓
Cooling 80°C
↓
Normal Hot Wash 80°C
↓
(Acetic Acid) pH control (Enzyme 5-5.5, >7 normal)
↓
Croaks NF peroxide killer 60-65°C
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↓
Rise temp to destroy Enzyme
Hot wash 80°C, 5 min
↓
Cool
↓
Rinsing 5 min
↓
Leveling agent 60°C +Glauber salt 80°C
↓
pH check
↓
Color 60°C, 15 min
↓
Soda Ash 60°C, 30 min
Drain
↓
Cold wash
↓
pH control (pH-7)
↓
Hot wash (ladipur RSK) /soaping agent
↓
Softener (Alcamine CWS)
↓
Unload

SCOURING, BLEACHING, ENZYME WASH:

Scouring-bleaching is carried out in the same bath and at the same time

simultaneously.

Bleaching is not carried out for black shade.

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Scouring is carried out for every type of shade.

Scouring-Bleaching chemicals:

Agent Brand g/l used

Wetting agent Sandoclean PCLF 1

Alkali Caustic soda 2

Ant creasing agent Romapon 173 .5

H O
Bleaching agent ² ² 2

Stabilizer Stab.soft 0.5

Acid Acetic acid 2

(Neutralization)

Firstly the fabric is load on to the bath.

Required amount of water is taken to the bath.
Wetting agent i.e. PCLF, & anticreasing agent i.e.Romapon is added.
Steam pipes are on & scouring agents (i.e., caustic soda/soda ash) added by
the aid of dosing when the temperature reaches at 50C.
When thetemperature reaches at 60C, then stabilizer is added.
Then H202is added by the aid of dosing system in 10 mins and the material is
run for 10-15 mins to reach the temp. 100C.

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Temperature is then raised to 100C& the process is then carried out for 30
mins depending on the requirements.
The liquors are the drained at 75C.

ENZYME WASH:

To remove hairiness from the material.

This treatment can be done before dyeing & after dyeing. Sometimes double

enzyme treatment occurs if buyer wants.

The fabric knitted with carded yarn always requires enzyme wash for

obtaining combed effect by biopolishing. This process is very sensitive to PH

(4-5) & temperature.

Cotton dyeing:

Shade% Dye selection Temp. (C)

Light shade (<0.5%) Drimarine 60

Medium shade(0.5-1.5%) Reactive 60-65

Deep shade(>1.5%) Reactive 60-65

Turquish shade Reactive 70-80

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 Deep shade: Navy, Red, Black, Green, etc.

 Medium shade: Khaki, Yellow, Blue, Orange, Olive, Royal, etc.

 Light shade: Sand, Beige, Stone, Pink, Rose, Purple, Rose petal, etc.

 Sensitive shade: Red, Black, and Turquish.

3.3 SAMPLE SECTION

3.3.1 SAMPLE:
 The style done by designer or developer.
 Particular purchase order.
 Sample is the specimen of any product.
 Any revision to the style work.
 Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is
look like.
 Conform with any specific requirement
 Sample is the physical form of design.

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3.3.2 FLOW CHART OF SAMPLE DEPARTMENT:

Sketch/design
(It is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style
of designed)

Basic block
(Without any allowance)

Working pattern
(To make of garment according to design)

Sample making
(Sample is made by sample man)

Basic manufacturing difference

(Critical path is identify)

Approved sample
(Sample approved by buyer)

Costing
(To estimated the making charge, trimming, fabric required and profit)

Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of
particular style.

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Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension.

Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:

Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.

Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Send to Buyer:
When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer.

Production Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance. S

3.3.3 SAMPLE TYPE:

1. Development sample
2. Salesman Sample
3. Photo Sample
4. Approval Sample
5. Size set Sample
6. Mock up Sample
7. Pre-production Sample
8. Production Sample
9. Shipping Sample

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample:

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to
both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have
used (if applicable).

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 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style no/ Size
 Store

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the

merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples
and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision
of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the
buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling
department suitably.

In the sample section there are different types of department need to be

overcome for sampling. The entire department thoroughly discussed in
following:

3.3.4 PATTERN MAKING:

Pattern is the one of important element of a design. In a garment industries there

are two type of pattern uses based on their capability. Mostly big companies are
use CAD (Computer aided design) as well as little companies’ uses manual pattern.
In FAL use CAD also manual pattern in some cases. Basically INVESTRONICA
Software uses here. There are 10-12 high skilled pattern masters working here.

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3.3.5 MARKER SECTION:

In FAL marker is made both manual system & automatic system. In computer
aided marker FAL use INVESTRONICA software. In manual marker making
process, marker man use pattern paper to draw different garments parts in marker
paper.

Fig: Marker making machine (Plotter M/C)

3.3.6 FABRIC SPREADING:

Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic
for obtaining a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding
large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a
garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments
desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk
production.

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Objectives of spreading process:

Understanding the process of fabric spreading

Factors affecting spreading
Face and nap of the fabric

Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine

2. Volume of production.
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery).
4. Thickness of fabric.

Types of Fabric Spreading:

The spreads can be of two basic types:

1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.

2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies
in one step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the
quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the
colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.

Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of
fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming

fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all

faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

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5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are
used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of
the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects
in garments due to variation in dimension.

7. Checks and stripes should be matched

Ideal Lay height of Cutting

Heavy Weight 4-5" 5-4"
Med Weight 3-4" 3-3.5"
slights Weight 2.5-3" 2-2.25"

3.4 CUTTING SECTION

3.4.1 FABRIC CUTTING:

Cutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut
into garment components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most
decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify
serious mistakes. Cutting can be done manually using powered knives or by
computer-controlled system.

3.4.2 PROCESS SEQUENCE IN CUTTING ROOM:

Fabric requisition

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Shrinkage difference

Break down ratio

Marker requisition

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting (Panel cutting)

(Sorting, Bundling, Sizing)

Numbering

100% checking (Panel check)

Mending / replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Input to Sewing Room

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:

 Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.
 Machines and tables used.

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3.4.3 TYPES OF CUTTING MACHINE:
There have three types of cutting machine.

1. Manual:
Die cutting
Drill cutting
Hand operated cutting scissor

2. Manually operated power knife:

Straight knife cutting m/c
Round knife cutting m/c
Band knife cutting m/c

3. Computerized cutting
Knife
Water jet
Laser
Plasma torch

Straight knife, Round knife, Band knife cutting machine is used in

Fakir Apparels Ltd.

3.4.4 CUTTING PROCEDURE FOR A PARTICULAR ORDER WITH REQUIRED TIME

S’ Oliver- 8589

1. Cutting Manager received this mail - 02.09.13- 3.30 pm.

2. All fabric and accessories are received from supplier- 02.09.13
3. Cutting submit their marker requisition in pattern section- 02.09.13 – 5.00
pm
4. Trial run fabric received from Central store. 03.09.13 - 08.40 am
5. 1st marker received from pattern – 04.09.13 – 8.30 am
6. Marker checked by cutting - 04.09.13 – 12.00 pm
7. Fabric spreading for trial run start- 04.09.13 – 3.00 pm
8. Send for embroidery – 05.09.13 – 3.00 pm

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9. Received from embroidery – 07.09.13 - 9.30 am
10.Input in line for trial run- 07.09.13- 3.30 am
11.Sent for wash- 12.09.13- 5.00 pm
12.Received from wash – 13.09.13- 5.00 pm
13.Measurement for QC check – 13.09.13 – 7.00 pm
14.Send to pattern – 14.09.13 – 8.30 am
15.PP ok – 16.09.13 – 12.30 pm
16.Fabric relaxation for bulk – 15.09.13
17.2nd Marker received from pattern- 15.09.13
18.Fabric spreading – 15.09.13 – 4.00 pm
19.Bulk Cutting start- 16.09.13 – 10.15 am
20.Cutting end – 16.09.13 – 12.30 pm
21.Send for embroidery – 16.09.13 – 3.00 pm
22.Received from embroidery – 17.09.13 – 2.00 pm
23.Input the line for bulk production – 17.09.13- 5.00 pm

3.4.5 DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING M/C:

3.4.6 Straight Knife Cutting M/C:

This is designed with a low center of gravity for ease of handling and
features the best power to gravity weight ratio in the industry.
It is designed for maximum productivity and minimum fatigue. The
XD-629 is the obvious Choice when one machine is required to
perform many roles. It is suitable for cutting most light to medium
weight fabric.
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BEST USED FOR:

Light to medium weight fabrics & Woven fabric.

3.4.6.1 FEATURES:
Automatic sharpening system
8” blade size
Low-profile ergonomic design
1-1/2” stroke

3.4.6.2 OPTIONS
Specify U-ground or twist plug when ordering Machine. Fine,
medium and course sharpening bands are available

Some advantages from others which are follows:

 Comparatively cheap
 Can be transferred easily
 Easily operated
 Round corner can cut smooth easily
 Fabric can be cut from any angle
 Directly garments components separated from fabric lays
 Properties of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
 Directly cut the pattern pieces from the fabric lays
 Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric
 Cutting speed high
 Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
 Blade is very sharp

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Advantage of round knife:
Round knife is widely used to separate the big parts and
separate the blocks of fabric from relatively small height fabric
lay.

Disadvantage of round knife:

Not suitable for cutting very curved lines in higher number of
lays as the blade does not strike all the piles simultaneously at
the same point.
Round knife is used only for straight line & lower number of
piles.
Not suitable for higher production.
Possibility of accident is high.
Difficult to cut small components.

3.4.7 BAND KNIFE:

Band knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machine. Band
knife is used for precession cutting small parts of garment.

Advantage of band knife:

Band knife are used when a higher standard of cutting

accuracy is required.
Consistent cutting is possible by using the templates.
Possible to cut in 90 angle of the fabric.

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3.4.8 Disadvantage of band knife:
Workload is high as machine is stationary & fabric is movable.
It is not suitable for cutting large amount of garments pattern.
Fabric wastages are very high.

3.4.9 COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING:

3.4.10 Advantage:
Very active & fast cutting by computer controlled system.
Suitable for very large-scale production.
Speed of cutting can be controlled.
Cutting defects are less than other.
Less labor cost.
No need of marker paper.

3.4.11 Disadvantage:
Very expensive machine.
Higher maintenance cost.
Skied manpower is required

3.4.12 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR CHOICE OF CUTTING:

Type of the fabric: Technique should be such as that it should not

damage the fabric. In case of natural fiber fabric, all methods may be

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applied, but Laser and Plasma method is not suitable for Man Made
Fiber fabric.

Accuracy of cutting: for higher accuracy, computerized method may

be adapted & for lower accuracy, manual technique may be suitable.

Available of cutting machine: machine is available to suit the

cutting technique.

Volume of cutting: For small amount of cutting, round knife is

suitable and for large volume of cutting, straight knife is suitable.

Quality of cutting: Computerized cutting methods are suitable for

high quality fabric cutting and manually operated powered knife is
suitable for comparatively lower cutting quality.

Time factor: For urgent requirement of fabric cutting, straight knife

is more suitable as that technique requires comparatively less
preparatory time.

3.4.13 NUMBERING:

Sorting out the components according to size and for each size make
individual bundle.

Cutting no :3
Bundle no :2
Style no : 1700
Quantity : 10
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Color : Red
Parts name : Pocket
Size M L : 8c
Serial no : 145-170=26
3.4.14 BUNDLING:

3.4.15 BUNDLE CARD:

The bundle card is most important in the garments section. In export
qualify garments any type of shading and size mistake is not accepted,
so it is used. Because buyer can not accepted any types of shading and
size mistake garments.

Understanding the information in a Bundle card:

C- 7 : Cutting number Seven.

723 : Bundle Number.
HPB : Hammer pocket big.
1912-1936 : Lay number.
5TE : Size.
Quantity : 25 pcs

Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics:

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as

follows:-

 Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.
 Machines and tables used.

REQUIREMENTS OF THE CUTTING PROCESS:

1. Precision of cut- It depends on:

Methods of cutting employed.

Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
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Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
Skill and motivation of the operator.

2. Clean edge- Free from fraying.

3. Un fused edge- High temperature produced during cutting can fuse fabric edges
by melting. Unused edges can be ensured by taking the following measures:

Well sharpened blade.

Use of anti-fusion (heat absorbent) paper.
Spraying silicon lubricants on the blade.
Less cutting speed.
Reducing the height of the lay.

4. Support of the lay- using a polyethylene sheet or nylon bristle under the
bottom ply

5. Consistent cutting- all plies should be of same dimension

3.4.16 CUTTING TOOLS THAT MOSTLY USED ON CUTTING DEPARTMENT IN GARMENT

INDUSTRY:

Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in
garment industry.

1. Scissor
2. Straight Knife.
3. Band Knife
4. Round Knife

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5. Die Cutter
6. Computerized Knife Cutter.
7. Computerized Laser Cutter.
8. Drill Machine.

Here Scissor is used in 100% cases in cutting section. Straight Knife is used in
100% cases for bulk cutting directly from lay cutting.
Mainly DCKIL used Straight knife cutting machine for fabric cutting. They are
given below:

Brand Name Mack

Origin Japan
Frequency 50/60 Hz
Volt 50/60 Hz
Phase 1
Blade Straight bar blade
Speed 3000/3600
Current AC

3.4.17 WORKING PRINCIPLE OF STRAIGHT KNIFE AS CUTTING ACCESSORIES:

The Working Principle of Straight Knife of Garment Manufacturing which is used

on Cutting Section is as below-
1. Firstly, switch on this cutting machine.
2. Then, place the cutting machine at any corner of the table.
3. Then switch on the blade.
4. Then the operator moves the machine by hand through the stationary fabric
layers and cut along marker lines until finish the marker.

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Disadvantages of Straight Knife as Cutting Machine:

1. Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hampered.

2. Skill hand required.

Different type of fabric fault:

1. Knot
2. Slub
3. Holes
4. Spot
5. Thick & Thin Places
6. Dirt & Stains
7. Oil stain
8. Missing yarn
9. Dye mark
10.Foreign mark
11.Crease mark

3.5 SEWING SECTION

3.5.1 SEWING:

This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where sewers stitch
fabric pieces together, and a garment is assembled. Computerized sewing machines
(costly), can be programmed to sew a specific number of stitches to perform a
standard operation, such as setting a zipper or sewing a collar.

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3.5.2 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF SEWING SECTION:

3.5.3 NAME OF THE MACHINES USED IN SEWING SECTION ARE:

Single needle lock stitch Machine

Double needle lock stitch Machine
Single needle chain stitch Machine
Double needle chain stitch Machine
Multi needle chain stitch Machine
3 thread Over lock Machine
5 thread Over lock Machine

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Bar tack Machine
Button hole Machine
Button attaching Machine
Snap button attaching Machine
Velcro Machine
Feed of the arm Machine
Fusing Machine

3.5.4 ACTIVITIES OF SEWING SECTION:

Attend pre-production meeting

Receive sample

Receive work sheet

Receive Approved swatch

Operation Break-down

Machine layout

Receive cut Fabric from cutting section by using Receiving Register

Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker

Marking at necessary parts

Input

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First production approved by Q.C. department

Look after production

Cycle check

Line Balancing

Target setting

Co-operative with Q.C. Department

Hand over complete Garments to finishing section through end line Q.C. Inspector

Show hourly production on production board

Prepare every day input and production statement

Maintain discipline and working environs

3.5.5 DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES:

The two main stitches that sewing machines make of which the others are
derivatives are lockstitch and chain stitch.

 BACK TACK

 BACKSTITCH - A STURDY HAND STITCH FOR SEAMS AND DECORATION

 BASTING STITCH (OR TACKING) - FOR REINFORCEMENT

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 BLANKET STITCH

 BLIND STITCH (OR HEM STITCH) - A TYPE OF SLIP STITCH USED FOR

INCONSPICUOUS HEMS

 BUTTONHOLE STITCH

 CHAIN STITCH - HAND OR MACHINE STITCH FOR SEAMS OR DECORATION

 CROSS-STITCH - USUALLY USED FOR DECORATION, BUT MAY ALSO BE USED

FOR SEAMS

 LOCKSTITCH - MACHINE STITCH, ALSO CALLED STRAIGHT STITCH

 OVERHAND STITCH

 OVER LOCK

 PAD STITCH

 PADDING STITCH

 RUNNING STITCH - A HAND STITCH FOR SEAMS AND GATHERING

 SAIL MAKERS STITCH

 SLIP STITCH - A HAND STITCH FOR FASTENING TWO PIECES OF FABRIC

TOGETHER FROM THE RIGHT SIDE WITHOUT THE THREAD SHOWING

 STRETCH STITCH

 TENT STITCH

 TOPSTITCH

 WHIPSTITCH (OR OVER SEWING OR OVERCAST STITCH) - FOR PROTECTING

EDGES

 ZIGZAG STITCH

3.5.6 DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT TYPE SEWING MACHINES:

3.5.7 Plain m/c:

Component:
One needle
Two tensioners

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Three guide
One hook
Two thread
One bobbin case
One magnate guide

Fig: plain machine

Application:
Bottom hemming
Belt top seem stitch
Belt joint stitch
Loop tack stitch
Pocket joint stitch
Zipper joint
Flap top stitch
Flap joint
Fly top stitch
Flap 1/4 stitch
Front rise stitch
Back rise stitch
3.5.8 OVER LOCK M/C:
Component:
 5 thread
 4 tensioner

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 2 knifes (up / down)
 2 needle for 5 thread
 1 needle for 3 thread
 3 looper for 5 thread
 2 lopper for 3 thread

Fig: Over lock m/c

Applications:
 Over lock stitch

Bar tack m/c:

3.5.9 APPLICATIONS:

 To created bar tack stitches in garments.

 Loop attach
 Fly make
 Pocket side
 Front side
 Back pocketing
 zipper lay
 In seem

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3.5.10 Flat lock

3.5.11 COMPONENT:

 4 tensioner
 3 thread
 Contain a holder
 2 needle

Applications:

 Zigzag stitch
 Knit hemming
 Loop making

3.5.12 Eye late Button holing m/c:

Component:

 3 thread or 4 thread
 1 needle
 Contains bobbin case
 2 lopper
 Contains a hammer
Applications:
To make eye late hole in garments.

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Fig: Button Attach M/c

3.5.13 Button Attach m/c:

Component:

 2 thread
 1 needle
 Contains shoulder, shoulder Cap bobbin catching
Applications:
 To attach button in garments

3.5.14 MACHINE WISE SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION (FOR 1"STITCH):

Machine wise sewing thread consumption per inch are gives in bellow:
Machine No. of needle Thread consumption
per inch
Plain 1 2.5”
Plain 2 5”
Over lock 3 16”
Over lock 4 18”
Over lock 5 21”
Bar tack ----------- 7”---8”
Button hole stitching ----------- 6”—7” normally per
hole
Button attaching 2 hole ---------- 4” per button

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Kanshai Stitching ---------- 4” per one needle

3.5.15 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEAM DESCRIPTION:

Superimposed Seam (SS):

The superimposed seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of together.

This is the one of the most common method of seaming.

Lapped Seam (LS): Lapped seam is made with two or more pieces of fabric
overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold
under itself for a finished edge.

Bound Seams (BS): Bound seam is made to finish and edge of a garment. A
common example of this would be a neckline of a Crew T.

Flat Seam (FS): A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet
precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric
together.

Edge Finished Seams (EF): This seam is used to prevent the edges of the fabric
from rolling or curling. Primarily used for knit fabrics and is suitable for straight or
curved seams and edges.

Ornamental Seam (OS): This seam is made using machines with zigzag
capability. It is used on a plain seam on woven or knit fabric.

Factors Affecting Appearance of Seam: The technique and skill of the sewing
machine operators also govern the appearance of sewn seams. Some of the factors
that will adversely affect the appearance of a seam.

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Stitch Defects Seam Appearance Defect

Loose Stitches Puckers
Poorly formed stitches Twists
Crowded stitches Plaits
Tight stitches Undulations
Crooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)
Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed (felled seams)

3.5.16 DIFFERENT TYPE OF SEWING FAULT:

1. Skip/ Drop stitch

2. Uneven stitch
3. Over stitch
4. Joint stitch
5. Raw edge
6. Tension loose
7. Broken stitch
8. Puckering
9. Open stitch
10.Oil spot
11.Shading
12.Incorrect stitch per inch
13.Pleat
14.Needle cut
15.Wrong Thread
16.Wrong size/ care label
17.Slanted
18.Wrong button placement
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19.Run off stitch

3.6 FINISHING SECTION

3.6.1 FINISHING

Garments Finishing:

Garment finishing through wet processing is responsible for adding beauty to

the garment. Proper finishing could provide better look to the garment,
change the feel of the fabric and bring about a change to the texture of the
fabric. There are various types of finishes like peach finish, anti-microbial
finish, wrinkle free finish, aroma finish, UV guard finish, acid wash, enzyme
wash, etc.

3.6.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF GARMENT FINISHING:

Thread Suction (Thread Sucker M/c)

↓
Ironing sewing defect
check
↓
Quality Check
↓
Metal Detection Spot defect check
↓
Accessories Attach
(Hang Tag, Price Tag, Hanger, Sticker, Security Alarm etc.)
↓
QA Inspection
↓

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Folding/Rolling
↓
Assortion
↓
QA Supervision
↓
Cartooning/Packaging
↓
Ready to shipment
Object of Finishing:

To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.

To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.

To give desirable qualities to the fabric like-

1. Softness
2. Luster
3. Drape
4. Dimensional stability
5. Crease recovery
6. Soil repellence

3.6.3 WORK FLOW IN THE FINISHING ROOM:

As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for
reference:

 Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment

 Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements
 Fold the garments as required by customer
 Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags), etc to the garments
at this stage
 Insert garments into poly bags
 Divide garments as per size and color (assortment)

Machine Description of finishing section (Fakir Apparels Ltd.):

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Machine Number
1. Steam iron 029
2. Metal detector 02
3. Thread sucker 03

Finishing capacity: 1000 pcs/hr (approximately)

Metal detection machine:

Fig: Metal Detector M/C (Brand name: HASHIMA)

Thread sucker machine:

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Fig: Thread Sucker M/C

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3.6.4 MATERIALS USED IN GARMENT Inner box
FINISHING: Muster cartoon box
Pp belt
Neck board Blister
Back board
Collar stand
Butterfly
Tie placket support
Fit label
M-clip
T-clip
Metal clip
Cuff link
Droop loop
Cable tie
Boa tie
Full board
Hand tag
Tag pin
Tissue paper
Al pin
Ball pin
Elastic clip
Hanger
Poly bag
Size sticker
Gun tap

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The General Rules of Spot Removing:

1. The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is to remove.

2. Always treat a stain before laundering.

3. Blot gently — never rub; and don't ever blot with hot water.

Stain Removal:

STAIN TYPE USED CHEMICAL

(COMMERCIAL NAME)
1. Oil stain Spot lifter
2. General stain Thinner
3. Termeric stain MRS
4. Ink stain MR
5. Glue stain(Polymer Heat gun
based )
6. Rust stain Markvill
7. Print mark Printvill

Ironing:

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric.
The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending
on the fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain
polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot,
the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new
shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to
loosen the intermolecular bonds.

Basic Ironing Symbols:

Do not iron

Cool iron (110°)

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Medium iron (150°)

Hot iron (200°)

3.6.5 GARMENT INSPECTION:

FLOW CHART OF GARMENT INSPECTION

Confirmation of Quantity
↓
Confirmation of accessories
↓
Size specification inspection
↓
In side Inspection
↓
Out side Inspection
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing

3.6.6 INSPECTION PROCEDURE OF GARMENTS ARE DESCRIBED BELOW:

Confirmation of Quantity:

First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the
vendors packing list by counting all Pecs of each box. If Qty is not matching to
the packing list and written in the box then this discrepancy
discrepancy is informed to the
vendor.

Confirmation of Accessories:

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Next step is the confirmation of accessories,, here we confirm brand tags,
demerit tags, Price tags, or oth
other
er tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other
labels and accessories as required by the buyer.

Size Specification inspection:

After confirmation of accessories all pieces are checked as per size specification
based on the instruction sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any
measurement problem is noticed then we check the original sample and inform
the buyer same time.

In Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no
fabric defect, poor stitching,, and stains etc. in the garment.

Out Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color
variation, weaving defect, fabric defect,
defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching,
bad smell , dying defect and stains etc in the garment.

Final Inspection:

Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here
garment is rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly
properly without
missing any checking step if any defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or
send it for repay.

Packing:

All “Grade-A”
A” goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging
and then they are send for needle inspection

3.6.7 PRESSING OR FOLDING:

Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists
that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form.

Different type of folding:

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 Standard folding

 Semi standard folding

 Flat folding:
- Roll folding
- Hang folding
- Half folding
- Eco folding
- Twill folding
3.7 PACKAGING:

After final inspection, the garments are poly

poly-packed, dozen-wise,
wise, color wise,
size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with
important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon
easily.

Assortment:

Buyers generally place order of garments in certain assortment of color and

sizes. The production of such colors and sizes is called assortment. Another
order with an assortment of 1:2:2:1
1:2:2: is shown below:

Color/size S M L XL Quantity
Red 1000 2000 2000 1000 = 6000
Yellow 1000 2000 2000 1000 = 6000
Olive 1000 2000 2000 1000 = 6000
Violet 1000 2000 2000 1000 = 6000
Total= 24000

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Cartooning procedure:

There are 4 types of cartooning assortment:

1) Solid size and solid color (the order comprises one size & one color)

2) Solid size & assorted color (the order comprises one size & different colors)

3) Assortment sizes & assorted color (the order has only one color but different
sizes)

4)) Assorted sizes & assorted color (different sizes & different colors in the
order)

Generally most of the order comes in assorted sizes & assorted colors

Cartoon type:

 Master carton (Almost cubic)

 Coffin carton (Length > 2*width)
 Inner carton (Small & insert able into other carton )
 Etc.

Dispatch:

The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the

dispatch department or finished product Go down, from where the garments lot
is delivered for shipment

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3.8 QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

3.8.1 QUALITY ASSURANCE:

Quality assurance (QA)) refers to the planned and systematic activities

implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or
service will be fulfilled. It is the systematic measurement, comparison with a
standard, monitoring of processes and an associated
associated feedback loop that confers
error prevention. This can be contrasted with quality control, which is focused
on process outputs.

3.8.2 OBJECTIVE OF QUALITY CONTROL:

 Research
 Selection of raw material
 Process control
 Process development
 Product testing
 Specification check

3.8.3 QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:

Assurance

Off line On Line

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Table inspection:

To maintaining good quality - BGL & BDL make a inspection report from
''sewing line finish garment'';

1. Date/hourly production quantity, inspected quantity, rejected quantity &

pass quantity
2. Identify defective & rectified quantity

3.8.4 ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LABEL

LA (AQL) -2.5:

Before start finishing work - BGL & BDL follow AQL system through a
format;

1. Buyer, item, style, purchase order, order quantity, audit time, lot quantity,
sample quantity,
measurement, total defects percent of defects. Pass/fail
2. Pass >> for start the finishing work
3. Fail >> full lot - 100%
0% re-inspection
re

3.8.5 ONLINE QUALITY ASSURANCE TESTTES :

The entire online QA test for finished fabric of BGL & BDL can be grouped as-
as

 Pattern measurement
 Marker making
 Fabric spreading
 Cutting check
- Fabric fault
- Shade variation
- Size measurement
- Cutting pieces matching
ma
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 Sewing inspection
 Packing & finishing

3.8.6 OFFLINE QUALITY ASSURANCE TEST

TES :

The entire offline QA test for finished fabric of BGL & BDL can be grouped as-
as
 Physical test
 Chemical test
The detail of all application QA test for finished fabric are discussed in bellow
bellow-
 Physical test:
The applicable QA physical test for finished fabric is as follows-
follows
- Tensile strength test
- Tear strength test
- Abrasion resistance test
- Pilling resistance test
- Crease resistance test

3.8.7 FLOW DIAGRAM OF OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL FOR EACH PRODUCTION

DUCTION:

Inspection fabric in the inspection machine


Fabric lot no.


Buyer’s order No check

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
Style No. check


Product quality check according to buyer’s requirement


Inspection and testing of the produced garments

3.8.8 FLOW DIAGRAM OF ON-LINE QUALITY CONTROL:

Raw material inspection


Pattern making inspection


Marker making inspection

Cutting inspection


Sewing inspection


Pressing and finishing inspection


Packing and cartooning inspection

3.8.9 IN PROCESS QC IN CUTTING SECTION:

Shade check with buyer approved swatch

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Check GSM


Running shade check


Roll wise shade check


Batch to batch shade check


Shrinkage test


Marker check


Cutting panel check


Pattern check


Shape check of different parts


Measurement check


Check number of different parts in bundle

3.8.10 IN PROCESS QC IN SEWING SECTION:

Seam joint of two parts


Seam damage


Slipped stitch
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
Staggered stitch


Unbalance stitch


Stitch density


Needle, lopper thread breakage


Fabric distortion


Fabric damage through the stitch line


Label attaching place


Check label


Check oil mark


Shading of different garment parts

3.8.11 IN PROCESS QC IN FINISHING SECTION:

Getup check

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Measurement check


Final garments inspection


Ratio wise packing inspection

3.9 STORE & INVENTORY

INVENTORY: – Inventory in a wider sense defined as any idle resources or assets

of an organization; however it is commonly used to indicate raw materials,
finished, semi-finished,
finished, packing, spears & other stocked in order to meet an
expected demand on distribution. Even
Even though inventory of materials is an idle
resource in the sense & is not meant for the most immediate use but it is almost
necessary to maintain some inventories for the smooth function of an
organization.

CAUSES OF MAINTAIN INVENTORY

VENTORY:–

1. To run manufacturing
ing operations economically.
2. To take care of uncertainties demand.
3. To reduce the clerical cost & to take advantage of discounts, transportation
etc.
4. It takes time to complete one operation & more products from one stage to
another.
5. To take care of order cycles.
cles.

SCOPE OF INVENTORY CONTROL

NTROL:–

1. Raw materials inventories.

2. In process inventories.

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3. Finished goods inventories.
4. Miscellaneous inventories.

Frequency of inventory control:

control:–
1. Daily inventory control.
2. Monthly inventory control.
3. Yearly inventory control.

Procurement system:–
a. Fakir dyes & chemical is sister concern of Fakir Apparels Ltd. so Dyes
(mostly used like Sumifix, Cibacron & Remazol dyes) & chemical (regular
items like Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing
Anti agent, Anti-foaming,
foaming, Levelling
agents, Stabilizer
izer etc) are collected from there.
b. Some dyes are purchased from local market if urgently required.

Inventory management for raw material:–

material:
In Fakir Apparels Ltd there are different inventory systems are maintained for
different materials.
Grey fabric store:–
All the grey fabric is stored in the fabric store near the knitting section.
Different types of fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types,
quantity, & consumer’s requirement.

Dyes & chemical store:–

There is a different store for dyes & chemicals. Varies types of dyes &
chemicals are stored here according to dyes & chemicals companies. Different
types of dyes & chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity
of dyes & chemicals are also included. Every day the sheet is updated & a copy

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of this sheet is supplied to the factory manager, Dyeing manager, & Dye house
& Lab section.

Finished fabric store:–

In Fakir Apparels Ltd finished fabric are sent to the garments section. After use
in the garments excess fabrics are sto
stored
red in finish fabric store according to the
lot no, quantity, order no, fabrics diameter, buyers name color, size other
considering technical parameters.

Finished goods store:–

In garment section during production they always consider some allowances%
allowances%.
After shipment the remaining garments are stored in the finished goods store to
the product name, order name, color name, & other subjected points.

Spare Parts store:–

In Fakir Apparels Ltd required amount of spears of different machines are
stored in the
he mechanical store room. All the spears are listed in a sheet which is
controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in
the store room according to their size, quantity, & requirements. There are
shelves in the store room to keep
ke the small spare parts.

Store capacity:–

Items Amount
Dyes 10-12 tons

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Chemicals 20-25 tons
Yarn storage 10-15 tons
Grey fabric 20-25tons
Finished fabric 30-35tons

Reorder point:–
The re-order
order point is stated in terms of the level of inventory at which an order
should be placed for maintaining the current inventory.
In other words, re-order
order point may be defined as the level of inventory when
fresh order should be placed with supplies for procuring additional inventory
equal to the economic order quantity.

3.10 UTILITIES

3.10.1 AVAILABLE UTILITIES:

The following utility facilities are available at Fakir Apparels Ltd.

 Water.
 Steam.
 Electricity.
 Gas.
 Compressed air.
 Covered Van for Transportation.

3.10.2 SOURCES OF UTILITIES:

Water: Natural water by own supply pump

Steam: Own supply from Boiler

Electricity: Generator & PDB

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Gas: Titas Gas Transmission & Distribution Co. Ltd.

Compressed Air: Own supply from Air compressor

Water supply:

Water is supplied by pump. Pump supplies water on the basis of pressure. Pump
pressure ranges 0-10
10 bar. The pump is operated at 2
2-4-bar
bar pressure. 3 motors
are used for uniform water supply. These are automatic on-off
on off system motor.
When the pressure is reduced
ced to the desired level (2 bars) then the motor is
turned on. Similarly when the pressure is above the desired level (4 bars) then
the motor is turned off. So, it has variable water supply capacity & supplies
water as required. The water, which is used for
for cooling, is brought to a tank &
again supply by a pump.

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Boiler:

Number of Boiler -02

1. Brand Name :Cleaver Brooks, USA

2. Type No. : DDH 15.0 – 10
3. Serial No. :18709
4. Year of manufacturing :1996
5. Max. Working pressure gauge :10 bar
6. Max Temperature :1830 C
7. Max heat capacity :3.25 MW
8. Water content up to ‘NW’ :9.62 cubic meter
9. Max steam output :9.4 ton/hr
10.Gas pressure in line :1 bar
11.Gas pressure (in boiler) :010 bar
12.Gas consumption :34 cubic meter/day
13.Steam pressure :7.5 bar
14.Steam header pressure :120 PSI
15.Blow down line :4 times/day
16.Soft water supply pipe dia :1 inch
17.Establishment cost :60 lacks

Operation Procedure of Boiler:

These two types of boiler are horizontal fire boiler. At first the boilers take NTA
(Natural gas) from the gas line and suck air. Then through the air and gas inside
the boiler. For this reason the water is boiled water and produce steam. The
steam
team is supplied by the steam line in the different section.

Feed water tank

Gas Burne Blowe

r Boiler r

Steam

Factory

House
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Water supply for the boiler:

Water required for steam production is supplied by deep tube well.

Pretreatment of the boiler water:

Boiler feed water needs special standard. Any deviation from the required
standard may result in scale formation, which eventually reduces the efficiency
of the boiler. This
his ultimately affects the cost of steam generation and makes the
production cost high. To maintain the required standard of the water, there
should be some means to pretreat the boiler feed water.

Manufacturer of the softener:

The manufacturer of the softener is also cleaver brooks®, USA.

No. of the softener:

There are two water softener to pretreat the boiler feed water.

Softener specification

Brand name : Cleaver brooks®

Model no. : ACC-SMR--150-1- ½ T

Serial no. :CS-0000235

Capacity : 150000
0 GRS / tank

Unit no. : HS008891

Pipe size : 1 ½ inch

Salt capacity brine marker: 575 lbs

Electricity supply:

It is totally impossible to continue the production without electricity. A frequent

supply of electricity is very essential for soundless production.
production. Here all the
machines in washing and dyeing section are provided electricity by the govt.
electricity with own standby generator of thethe industry. Fakir Apparels has two

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generators for power supply to ensure continuous dyeing & knitting
knitting operation
and help
elp to fulfil their target production.One
production.One is gas generator & other is diesel
generator. Both of this two generator gas generator is widely used because of
lower production cost.

Technical Details about Generator:

Types : Gas generator (Main source)

Number : 02

Company : Deutz.

Model : 560
560.

Country origin : Germany

Capacity : 1344KW
1344KW, 1344KW

Frequency : 50Hz

RPM : 1500.

Cylinder no : 16

Pressure of gas : 50m bar.

Types : Diesel generator (Auxiliary

( back up )

Number : 03

Company : Perkins

Model : PS380FI.

Country origin: United Kingdom

Capacity : 1000KW, 1000KW, 340KW

Frequency : 50 Hz

RPM : 1500

Generator:

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3
1m gas = 4.73 TK.

1 litre diesel =44.45 TK.

1KW/hr electricity can be produced by using 0.33 litre diesel per hr.

To produce 1KW/hr electricity diesel required for 1 day = (0.33*24) or 7.92 ltr.

Running load = 2 MW

Connecting load =4 MW

Steam Boiler:

Boiler gas bill= 27, 00,000 TK./boiler/month.

4 IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP

4.1 IMPACT OF DIFFERENT SECTION:

4.1.1 IMPACT OF SAMPLE SECTION:

Understood why sample section is called a mini-industry

mini
Observed how skilled workers work in sample section
Learned the process of preparing a pattern for an individual size & design
Cleared the conception about different types of sample required to produce a
garment
Learned about the digitizing board in CAD room
Learned the process of determining breakdown ratio for a particular order

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Understood how to make marker from a pattern by software (Investronica
) in CAD room
Observed the process
ocess of printing a marker on a paper with plotter machine in
CAD room

4.1.2 IMPACT OF CUTTING SECTION:

Learned about different type of cutting machines (i.e. Straight knife cutting
machine, Round knife cutting machine, Band knife cutting machine etc.)
Learned the process of fabric spreading
Observed the process of fabric cutting according to the marker
Understood different process of fabric lay
Realized the use and importance of metal gloves for fabric cutting process
through different cutting machines
Observed
ed the panel check process for different type of fabric of different
style and design
Understood how numbering and bundling is done
Understood the role of input man in the industry

4.1.3 IMPACT OF SEWING SECTION:

Observed different sewing or joining process of different body parts of a
shirt
Learned about different type of machines used in a sewing floor (i.e. Single
or double needle lock stitch machine , Multi needle chain stitch machine,
Over lock machine, Feed of the arm machine etc.)
Observed the ironing and fusing process for different body parts (i.e. Collar,
Placket, Facing Interlining etc.)
Learned about Standard Minute Value (SMV) of different sewing process
Learned the process of determining operator’s efficiency in an individual
process for a shirt

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Cleared the conception about production of a sewing floor ( line by line and
total floor)
Observed and realized the importance of final inspection at the end of every
sewing line
Got experienced in making production study of an operator for an individual
individua
process for a definite time interval
Also got experienced in making capacity graph of a sewing line of a definite
style and design
Attended Pre-production
production meeting before the bulk production of an order
Realized the importance of Dept. of IE in raising the efficiency of
production in a sewing floor

4.1.4 IMPACT OF FINISHING SECTION:

Observed various type of finishing process after sewing and washing

Observed different type of machines used in finishing section (i.e. Neck
press machine, Metal detector machine
machi etc.)
Learned about different type of iron machines
Learned about various type of accessories used to attach to the garment (i.e.
Security alarm, Hang tag, Price tag, Barcode label etc.)
Observed the application of different chemicals for the removal of various
type of stain
Observed and learned different type of folding process (i.e. Standard fold,
Semi-standard
standard fold, Hanger fold, Twill fold, Half fold, Full fold etc.)
Cleared the conception about different packing type (i.e. Master pack, Blister
pack,, Coffin pack etc.) and packing ratio
Understood the basic difference between gross weight and net weight
Finally realized why finishing section is unavoidable in garments industry
for making the garment attractive and decorative for selling purpose

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5 CONCLUSION

We have completed our Industrial Training successfully by the grace of Allah.

Industrial Attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. Fakir
Apparels Ltd is one of the best factories in the textile field of Bangladesh. The
completion of the six weeks industrial attachment at Fakir Apparels Ltd. gave
us the inspiration that factory is one of the appropriate destiny to implement the
theoretical knowledge. From this industrial attachment we got the details idea
about the factory environment, production
production process, total management, store &
inventory process, maintenance, utility etc.

Fakir Apparels Ltd. is well equipped and the working environment is

excellent. The relation between top management to bottom level is so nice. We
are lucky to get thee opportunity of having training in this mill. The factory runs
by a number of efficient Textile Engineers, Skilled technical & Non
Non-technical
persons.

All the Textile Engineers, technical & Non-technical

Non technical persons are very
sincere, co-operative
operative and helpful. We wish good luck of them and also for this
factory.

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