Spacer Impact on Cotton-Lycra Yarn
Spacer Impact on Cotton-Lycra Yarn
Project Report on
Submitted by
Supervised by
Mr. Subrata kumar Saha
Associate Professor
We would like to express our deep and sincere gratitude to our supervisors Mr. Subrata
Kumar Saha, Associate Professors, Department of Textile Engineering, AUST for providing
invaluable supervision, encouragement, inspiration, and suggestion throughout this project
work period. Their continuous supervision and recommendations were vital in the successful
completion of this project work.
We are grateful to prof. Dr. Lal Mohan Baral, Former Head of the Department of Textile
Engineering, AUST and Engr. Emdadul Haque, Head of Department of Textile Engineering,
AUST for giving us permission to conduct our Industrial Training at Mozaffar Hossain
Spinning Mill Limited, there we completed our project work.
We would like to thank Mr. Maruf Hossain, Senior Manager (Quality Control) at SIM Fabrics
for his valuable contributions, guidance, and assistance throughout the project.
Finally, we would like to express our appreciation and respect to all of the management and
non- management personnel who supported us during the project work period by sharing their
knowledge and experiences. Thank you for their thoughtful gesture, wise advice and time.
improved properties, combining the strengths of each fiber. The addition of a spacer, in the
form of a specific yarn or fiber structure, is introduced to explore its influence on various yarn
parameters. The project samples are subjected to a comprehensive set of tests to evaluate their
performance characteristics. These tests include measurements of yarn strength, elongation,
evenness, abrasion resistance, and other relevant properties. The findings of this project aim
to provide valuable insights into the impact of the spacer on the final yarn's properties. The
results obtained from testing and analysis will be used to assess the effect of the spacer on
aspects such as yarn strength, durability, elongation behavior, and overall yarn quality.
Additionally, the research will explore the potential for optimizing the spacer structure in the
cotton-lycra blend yarn to achieve desired yarn properties. The knowledge gained from this
project can contribute to the development of improved cotton-lycra blend yarns, offering
enhanced performance and expanding their applications in various industries. The project's
findings may also serve as a foundation for future research in the field of yarn blending and
textile engineering, providing insights for the creation of innovative yarns with desired
properties and functionalities.
Yarn manufacturing is a complex process involving the conversion of raw fibers into
continuous strands suitable for textile production. This process typically includes cleaning,
carding, spinning, and twisting the fibers to create yarns of various thicknesses and qualities.
Yarn serves as fundamental elements in the textile industry, forming the basis for fabrics and
other textile products. [1]
Yarn blending is the process of combining different types of fibers or yarns to create a yarn
with specific properties, such as improved strength, softness, or color variation. Blending can
occur at various stages of yarn manufacturing, including during fiber processing, spinning, or
even after spinning. Common blending methods include mixing different fibers together
before spinning or combining already spun yarns during plying. [2]
Blended yarns have various applications based on their fiber combinations. Cotton-polyester
blends are popular for summer garments due to their breathability and moisture-wicking
properties. Silk-cashmere blends offer a luxurious feel for high-end knitwear. [3]
The project focuses on studying the effect of a spacer on the properties of blended viscose-
linen yarn. Yarn blending provides opportunities to create unique yarns with enhanced
characteristics, and the project aims to investigate the impact of a spacer in achieving desired
properties.
Yarn blending is a versatile technique that allows for the creation of yarns with specific
properties to meet the needs of different projects and applications. By combining fibers
strategically, yarn manufacturers can achieve a wide range of characteristics to cater to various
preferences and requirements in the textile industry.
1. The aim of the project is to investigate the effect of using a spacer in cotton-lycra
blended yarn production.
2. Evaluating the impact of the spacer on the strength and durability of the cotton-lycra
blended yarn.
3. Assessing the influence of the spacer on the overall softness and texture of the yarn.
➢ An investigation was conducted by Mr. Abdur Razzaque and Mr. Mahbubur Rahman
on the influence of Pin Spacer on Yarn Quality in a Ring Frame. In the experiment, 20
Tex yarn was produced each time using spacer without pin and using pin spacer. The
result showed the best scenario in case of using pin with grey spacer due to the perfect
distance between top apron and bottom. [4]
➢ A study was conducted by Mr. Subrata Kumar Saha and Mr. Jamal Hossain on
Assessing the Impact of Spacer Size Variations on the Ring-Spun Yarn Quality
Ranking. The research explored the impact of spacer size on yarn quality by employing
seven distinct spacer sizes to produce 20 Ne cotton combed yarn. Results indicated
that smaller spacer sizes often yielded inferior yarn quality. As the size increased,
quality improved; however, after reaching an optimal size, further enlargement led to
a decline in five key quality metrics: CVm (%), IPI, Hairiness, Tenacity, and
Elongation %. This fluctuation can be attributed to changes in fiber movement and
drafting pressure in the drafting zone. [5]
➢ Another study reported by Shiferaw M and Muhammed A, Optimization of Spacer
Size and Degree of Shore Hardness on Yarn Quality in Ring Frame Machine has been
investigated. This study was mainly focused on the optimization of spacer size and-
degree of shore hardness in ring frame drafting systems to improve yarn quality
parameters. The 100% cotton fiber carded yarn samples of 35.5Nm were produced to
analyze the effect of spacer size and degree of shore hardness with different
combinations. [6]
Cotton fiber, a natural plant-based fiber, has been an essential component of human civilization
for millennia. Its introduction into human use predates recorded history, with evidence of
cotton cultivation and use dating back to ancient civilizations in India, Egypt, and the
Americas. [7]
Cotton fibers are obtained from the cotton plant's seed pods, primarily from species of the genus
Gossypium. The fibers are composed mainly of cellulose, making them soft, breathable, and
absorbent. These qualities have made cotton one of the most widely used fibers in the world,
particularly in textile production. [7]
The earliest evidence of cotton cultivation dates to around 5000 BCE in the Indian
subcontinents. From there, the knowledge and use of cotton spread to other regions such as
Egypt, where it became a staple crop around 3000 BCE. Cotton's popularity continued to grow,
and by the time of the Indus Valley Civilization (3300–1300 BCE), it was already being spun
and woven into cloth. [7]
The introduction of cotton fiber revolutionized textile production, as it provided a versatile and
comfortable material for clothing and other fabric goods. With the advancement of technology,
particularly during the Industrial Revolution, cotton production and processing underwent
significant improvements, leading to increased efficiency and accessibility. [7]
Cotton represents more than 40% of the global fiber market, making it the most significant
among natural fibers. The chemical modification of cotton to enhance its properties has a
lengthy history, with many of these treatments also being employed on other cellulose fibers.
The key processes involve mercerization, bleaching, coloration, and cross-linking treatments,
all aimed at enhancing the durability and appearance retention of cotton products. [8]
• Fiber length
• Fiber Strength
• Length Uniformity
• Trash Content
• Color
Fiber Length
Two widely recognized techniques for evaluating fiber length are the staple diagram and the
fibrograph (or fibrogram). The fibrograph is used to determine fiber length, specifically the
average length of the longer half of the fiber span length distribution, known as the upper half
mean length (UHML). [9]
Fiber Strength
The strength of cotton fibers is assessed using the same samples used for measuring fiber
length. These samples are secured between two sets of jaws, spaced 12.5 mm (1/8 in.) apart,
and the force needed to break the fibers is measured. The strength measurements are expressed
as grams per tex (g/tex). In simpler terms, the reported strength indicates the amount of force
in grams needed to break a bundle of fibers with a tex count of one. [9]
Strong 29-30
Average 26-28
Intermediate 24-25
Length Uniformity
Length uniformity is the percentage obtained by comparing the mean length to the UHM
length on the fibrogram. Since cotton fibers naturally vary in length, the length uniformity will
never exceed 100. Consequently, the length uniformity index is crucial for the efficiency of
yarn production, as well as for ensuring yarn strength and consistency. [9]
Discount Above 5
Trash Content
Trash refers to the non-lint materials present in cotton, such as leaves and bark from the cotton
plant. From a yarn production perspective, having leaf content and other foreign matter is
considered waste, and there are costs associated with their removal. Additionally, it's not
always possible to eliminate small particles, and these particles can negatively impact the
quality of both the yarn and the final fabric.
The classer's leaf grade is an assessment of the predominance of leaf particles in cotton, rated
on a scale from "1" to "7." Extraneous matter encompasses any substance found in the cotton
mass that is not fiber or leaf [9].
0.12 1
0.20 2
0.33 3
0.68 5
0.92 6
1.21 7
Color
The color of cotton samples is assessed using two parameters: degree of reflectance (Rd) and
yellowness (+b). Degree of reflectance indicates how bright or dull (degree of greyness) the
sample appears, while +b measures the pigmentation level in the fibers. There are five
recognized color groups: white, grey, spotted, tinge, and yellow-stained. A three-digit color
code is assigned, determined by identifying the point where the Rd and +b values intersect on
the Nickerson-Hunter cotton colorimeter diagram specific to the cotton variety [9].
Cotton, a versatile natural fiber, exhibits remarkable chemical properties. Its cellulose structure
grants it high cellulose content, making it highly durable and resistant to alkalis. Additionally,
cotton's hydrophilic nature enables excellent water absorption, crucial for various textile
applications. Moreover, its susceptibility to chemical treatments allows for easy dyeing and
modification, enhancing its versatility in the textile industry. Cotton is the purest natural form
of cellulose found in the seed hair of plants belonging to the Gossypium genus. When the cotton
plant flowers, it develops a long capsule or boll where the cotton fibers grow. Once the fibers
finish growing, the capsule bursts open, and the fibers emerge. A cotton capsule typically holds
about 30 seeds, with each seed containing approximately 2000–7000 seed hairs (fibers). The
fiber color is typically creamy white or yellowish, depending on the type of cotton and the
growing conditions [10].
Effects of alkalis
These fibers are resistant to alkalis and are comparatively unaffected by normal laundering.
The resistance is because of the lack of attraction between the cotton polymers and alkalis.
Effect of Acids
Effect of Bleaches
The most common bleaches used on cotton textile materials are sodium hypochlorite and
sodium perborate. They are: oxidizing bleaches and bleach because of the oxygen liberated
from them.
The ultra-violet rays of sunlight provide photo chemical energy whilst the infra-red rays
provide heat energy essential to degrade the cotton polymers in the pressure of atmospheric
oxygen, moisture and air pollutants. The breakdown of polymers takes place through diverse
hydrolysis reactions. The beginning degradation is noticed as a slight fibre discoloration.
The fading of colored cotton textile is partially because of the breakdown of the dye molecules
in the fiber’s polymer system.
Color Fastness
Cotton is easy to dye and print. The classes of dye which may be used to color cotton are azoic,
direct, reactive, sulfur and vat dyes. The polar polymer system easily attracts any polar dye
molecules into the polar system. Therefore, dye molecules which can be dispersed in water will
be absorbed by the polymer system of cotton. However, the dye molecules can enter solely the
amorphous regions of the polymer system of cotton. The small inter polymer spaces in the
crystalline regions of the polymer system prohibit the entry of the crystalline molecules.
Mildew
Cotton is damaged by fungi. Heat and dampness support the growth of mildew. The fungi
produce a chemical compound which has the power of changing cellulose to glucose. The fungi
feed on the molecules of sugar: Cotton treated with acrylo nitrite is resistant to mildew.
Insects
Component Percentage
Cellulose 94%
Protein 1.3%
Pectin’s 0.9%
Minerals 1.2%
Waxes 0.6%
Organic Acids 0.8%
Sugar 0.3%
Cotton fibers are composed mainly of cellulose, a polysaccharide consisting of long chains of
glucose molecules. The chemical structure of cellulose can be represented as:
(-C6H10O5-) n
Where "n" represents the number of repeating units, or glucose molecules, in the polymer
chain.
Cotton fibers also contain small amounts of other compounds such as hemicelluloses, lignin,
and pectin, which provide strength and rigidity to the fiber cell walls [11].
Cotton fibers primarily come in four different types, each with its own unique characteristics:
Pima Cotton (Gossypium barbadense): Also known as extra-long staple (ELS) cotton, Pima
cotton is characterized by its long, luxurious fibers (typically around 1.5 to 2 inches long). It is
known for its softness, strength, and durability, making it ideal for high-quality fabrics and
luxury clothing items.
Sea Island Cotton (Gossypium barbadense): Sea Island cotton is one of the rarest and most
coveted types of cotton. It is grown primarily in the Caribbean and has exceptionally long staple
fibers (often exceeding 2 inches in length). Sea Island cotton is celebrated for its unparalleled
softness, silky texture, and strength, making it highly sought after for premium textiles and
clothing.
These cotton fiber types are distinguished based on their staple length, fineness, strength, and
other properties, which influence their suitability for various applications in the textile
industry [12].
There are several spinning methods for cotton fibers, each with its own advantages and
applications. Here's a brief overview:
Ring Spinning: This is the most common spinning method for cotton. It involves drafting the
fibers to create a fine sliver, which is then twisted into yarn using a spinning ring and traveler.
Ring spinning produces strong and versatile yarn suitable for a wide range of applications, from
clothing to home textiles.
Open-End Spinning: Also known as rotor spinning, this method is faster than ring spinning
and is often used for coarser yarns. In open-end spinning, fibers are fed into a rapidly rotating
rotor, where they are twisted and wound onto a bobbin. This process is more economical but
may result in yarn with lower strength and unevenness compared to ring-spun yarn.
Air Jet Spinning: In this method, compressed air is used to twist and wrap fibers into yarn.
Air jet spinning is fast and produces yarn with low hairiness, making it suitable for fine and
medium counts. However, it requires fibers with good spinning properties and may result in
lower yarn strength compared to ring spinning.
Vortex Spinning: Also known as MVS (Murata Vortex Spinning), this method uses a vortex
created by high-speed air flow to twist fibers into yarn. Vortex spinning is energy-efficient and
produces yarn with high evenness and strength, making it suitable for a variety of applications.
These spinning methods vary in terms of yarn quality, production speed, and equipment
requirements. The choice of spinning method depends on factors such as the desired yarn
characteristics, production volume, and cost considerations [13].
Cotton fiber offers several advantages due to its natural properties and versatility. Here are
some key advantages:
Comfort: Cotton is soft, breathable, and comfortable to wear, making it ideal for clothing,
especially in warm climates.
Absorbency: Cotton fibers can absorb moisture well, which helps keep the body cool and dry.
This property also makes cotton suitable for towels and other absorbent products.
Durability: Cotton fibers are strong and durable, which ensures that cotton-based products last
longer and can withstand regular use and washing.
Hypoallergenic: Cotton is less likely to cause allergic reactions compared to synthetic fibers,
making it a suitable choice for individuals with sensitive skin.
Versatility: Cotton fibers can be easily dyed, printed, and blended with other fibers, allowing
for a wide range of applications in textiles and non-textile products.
Cotton fiber, while widely used and versatile, also has its disadvantages:
Environmental Impact: Cotton production requires large amounts of water, pesticides, and
fertilizers. This intensive agricultural process can lead to soil degradation, water pollution, and
habitat destruction.
Vulnerability to Pests: Cotton crops are highly susceptible to pest infestations, such as boll
weevils and cotton aphids. Controlling these pests often necessitates the use of chemical
pesticides, which can harm the environment and human health.
Resource Intensive: Cotton cultivation demands significant resources, including water and
land. In regions already facing water scarcity or where agriculture competes with other land
uses, cotton farming can exacerbate resource depletion and conflicts.
Labour Intensive: Cotton harvesting and processing require substantial manual labor, often
under harsh conditions. This can lead to issues such as poor working conditions, low wages,
and exploitation of laborers, particularly in developing countries where cotton is a major cash
crop.
Prone to Wrinkling: Cotton fabrics are prone to wrinkling, especially when compared to
synthetic fibers. This necessitates more frequent ironing or pressing to maintain a neat
appearance, which adds to the time and energy required for garment care.
Shrinkage: Cotton fibers have a tendency to shrink when exposed to heat or moisture, leading
to potential issues with garment fit and durability if not properly pre-shrunk or treated.
Non-Biodegradable Dyes: While cotton itself is biodegradable, the dyes used to color cotton
fabrics may not be. Improper disposal of dyed cotton textiles can contribute to pollution and
environmental harm [15]
Lycra fiber, also known as spandex or elastane, is a synthetic fiber renowned for its exceptional
stretch and recovery properties. Initially developed by chemist Joseph Shivers in 1958, Lycra
Year Milestone
The precursor to Lycra was developed during this period when
researchers at DuPont, an American chemical company, were
1980s such as jeans, tops, and dresses. Its versatility and durability
made it a staple material for designers and manufacturers
worldwide [16].
The Hohenstein Institute is founded to research the properties
and applications of viscose fiber Lycra continues to be a
dominant force in the textile industry, constantly evolving with
The commercial name of Lycra fiber is "Spandex." Lycra is a brand name owned by the
company Invista, which produces this type of elastane fiber commonly known as Spandex.
Elasticity: Lycra fibers can stretch significantly (up to five times their original length) without
losing their shape or elasticity. This property allows fabrics made with Lycra to conform well
to the body and provide excellent comfort and freedom of movement.
Strength: Despite its stretchiness, Lycra fibers are also strong and durable. They can withstand
repeated stretching and are resistant to abrasion and tearing.
Lightweight: Lycra fibers are lightweight, adding minimal weight to fabrics while providing
maximum stretch and comfort.
Resistance to chemicals: Lycra fibers are resistant to damage from most chemicals, including
sweat, oils, and cosmetics. This makes Lycra-containing garments easy to care for and
maintain.
These properties make Lycra an ideal choice for a wide range of applications, including
sportswear, activewear, swimwear, lingerie, and medical garments [17].
Hydrophobic Nature: Lycra fibers are generally hydrophobic, meaning they repel water. This
property contributes to their resistance to moisture, including sweat and other body fluids.
Resistance to Chemicals: Lycra fibers exhibit resistance to various chemicals, including oils,
perspiration, and cosmetics. This resistance makes Lycra-containing garments durable and
easy to care for.
Thermal Stability: Lycra fibers typically have good thermal stability, allowing them to
withstand high temperatures during processing and laundering without significant degradation.
Compatibility with Other Fibers: Lycra fibers can be blended with other fibers such as
cotton, polyester, or nylon. Their chemical compatibility with these fibers allows for the
creation of fabrics with a wide range of properties, including stretching, softness, and durability
[18]
Regular Lycra: This is the standard type of Lycra fiber used in a wide range of applications,
including apparel, sportswear, swimwear, and lingerie. It offers excellent stretch and recovery
properties.
Extra Life Lycra: This type of Lycra fiber is specially engineered to provide enhanced
resistance to chlorine, sunscreen, and other harsh chemicals, making it ideal for swimwear and
activewear intended for frequent use in pool environments.
Cool max Lycra: Combining the stretch of Lycra with the moisture-wicking properties of Cool
max fabric, this type of Lycra fiber is designed to keep the wearer cool and dry during physical
activities, making it popular for activewear and performance garments.
T400 Lycra: T400 is a type of Lycra fiber known for its superior stretch and recovery
properties, as well as its resistance to wrinkles and creases. It's often used in denim and
casualwear to provide comfort and shape retention.
Eco Made Lycra: This type of Lycra fiber is made from recycled materials, contributing to
sustainability efforts in the textile industry. It offers similar performance to regular Lycra but
with reduced environmental impact.
Sportswear and activewear: Lycra is commonly used in athletic apparel such as leggings,
compression garments, and athletic shorts due to its stretchability and moisture-wicking
properties.
Swimwear: Lycra is popular in swimwear because of its ability to retain its shape and resist
damage from chlorine and saltwater.
Intimate apparel: Lycra is often blended with fabrics like nylon and polyester to create
comfortable and form-fitting lingerie and underwear.
Medical Garments:
Compression garments: Lycra is used in medical compression garments to provide support and
improve circulation for patients with conditions like venous insufficiency or lymphedema.
Industrial Applications:
Bandages and braces: Lycra's stretch and recovery properties make it suitable for use in
bandages and braces, providing support and compression for injured joints or muscles.
Home Furnishings:
Upholstery: Lycra can be blended with fabrics used in upholstery to enhance stretch and
durability, providing furniture with improved comfort and longevity.
Automotive Textiles:
Seat covers: Lycra can be incorporated into automotive textiles, including seat covers, to
provide a comfortable and form-fitting fit.
Advantages Disadvantages
2.3 Spacer
In the context of a ring spinning frame, a spacer refers to a component or device that is used to
separate the spinning aprons. The spinning aprons are two endless bands that help to control
the yarn as it is being spun and wound onto the bobbin. The spacer ensures that there is a proper
distance maintained between the two spinning aprons, allowing the yarn to be twisted and
drafted effectively [19].
The capacity of the spinner to keep the defects low and hence reduce the yarn inconsistencies
is becoming increasingly important in this era of demanding quality standards. When
mechanical flaws are not kept to a minimum, drafting abnormalities increase mostly owing to
uncontrolled movement of fibers in the drafting zone. Because the pressure between the aprons
in the drafting zone is regulated by the spacer, it determines the degree of control exercised on
the floating fibers, which influences the drafting irregularities [20].
Evenness and total imperfection could be improved by closing down the apron spacing. SKF
recommends the smallest possible spacers for all the counts. It is, however, often necessary to
use a wider spacer for a coarser count. If there are undrafted places in the yarn when it leaves
the front rollers, the break draft should be increased. The total draft will, however, remain
unchanged after the break draft has been increased [20].
The top aprons are forced upon the lower aprons by spacing pressure. The intensity of fiber
clamping and thus fiber guidance depends upon this pressure and upon the distance between
the two aprons. The pressing effect should be considerable but not too high otherwise it is
impossible to achieve controlled drawing of fibers out of the clamped strand. The arrangement
must permit precise adaptation of the minimum distance to the fiber volume [21].
These distance pieces are given various names by various manufacture such as:
a) Spacers (Rieter)
b) Distance clips (SKF)
c) Cradle spacers (Suessen)
Spacer number for Ring frames = {8.233 / (Spacer factor x Divider x Ne)} +2.03
Where,
And
Divider = (Roving hank x Break draft in Ring frame) + (0.96 / Roving frame)
Spacer is a small element that decides the spacing between the two aprons in the front drafting
zone in simplex and ring frame.
3.Hairiness
If the spacer is too narrow, it disturbs the smooth fiber flow and if the space is too wide then
the fibers move in the drafting zone in an uncontrolled manner. Both cause increasing
unevenness and imperfections. Hence the spacing between two aprons should be optimized by
proper selection of spacers [21].
1. Effect of spinning spacers on actual count: Increase in the spacer size leads to a small
variation in the actual count. However, the minimum variation is found at the actual
spacer number on demanded count. The count CV% decreases and reaches the
minimum value for 3.0-mm spacer. If we increase the spacer number gradually the
actual count also increases [22].
2. Effect of spinning spacers on strength: The spacer opening seems to have a more
impact on yarn strength. It is observed that the yarn strength decreases to the minimum
value with the spacer 3.5 mm. Therefore, 2.5 mm spacer gives the better strength as
compared to the various spacer numbers. But the minimum strength CV% is observed
at 2.5-mm spacer. So, strength variation occurred by the use of various number of
spacers [22].
3. Effect of spinning spacers on Unevenness: As spacer value increases, U% gets
increased. 3.0 mm spacer shows the minimum U%. U% is very important parameter in
yarn quality. It is clearly seen that if we increase the spacer number the U% also
increases [22].
4. Effect of spinning spacers on hairiness: The spacer should select such that optimum
results are achieved in respect to imperfections as well as hairiness. Size of the spacer
plays significant role in reducing the hairiness. Many technicians have a tendency to
use the thinnest spacer for reduction in U% and imperfections. However, it leads to a
significant increase in hairiness. It is needless to mention that using thicker spacer will
increase the imperfections. However, if the reduction in hairiness is more important
than increase in imperfections can be allowed.
5. Effect of spinning spacers on total imperfections: thin places usually exhibit a higher
yarn twist, because of fewer fibers in the cross-section resulting in less resistance to
torsion. Conversely, thick places contain more fibers in the cross-section results in a
higher resistance to torsion. Thick places therefore contain lower yarn twist than that of
average [22].
The ring frame process is the last and the most important process in the yarn manufacturing
process. “The machine which converts the roving into desired yarn count is called ring frame”.
It is the most commonly used method in the yarn manufacturing process. The final yarn of the
required count gets spun on the ring frame machine. The roving obtained from simplex
machine gets used as input material in the ring frame process [23].
• The objective is to apply the necessary twist to the strand of fibers in order to bind them
together in the yarn.
• During the spinning process, the yarn is wound onto the ring bobbin.
• The roving is stretched to the appropriate level based on the desired yarn count prior to
being spun [23].
• Creeling: Roving is fed to the Ring Frame from roving bobbin held by creels. For all the
spindles roving bobbin are creeled on the machine. The roving is guided and passed through
trumpet. The roving then passes through the drafting rollers.
• Drafting: When the roving gets entered into the drafting zone, it is drafted according to the
desired count of yarn to be spun. The drafting system is inclined at 45-50 degrees in the ring
frame machine. The working performance of a drafting system of ring frame greatly affects
the yarn quality.
• Twisting: The drafted strand of the material is finer than rove and twist is inserted to
strengthen the material i.e., Yarn.
• Winding: Winding of the yarn on to the bobbin is done by raising and lowering the ring rail.
The traverse movement of the ring rail is less than that of the bobbin height. The ring rail must
therefore be raised by small amount after each layer of coils.
• Doffing: To replace with empty bobbins when the ring bobbins become full [24].
The drafting system plays a crucial role in determining the quality of yarn and the performance
of the machine. Typically, a 3 over 3 drafting system is employed in ring frames. The overall
draft, distribution of draft, and arrangement of the drafting system are critical factors that affect
both the yarn quality and the machine's performance [25].
Total draft = Break draft or break zone draft X Front zone draft
Drafting in yarn manufacturing is the process of elongating and aligning the loose assembly of
fibers known as sliver by passing it through a series of rollers. This straightens the individual
fibers and improves their parallel arrangement. Each successive pair of rollers spins at a higher
speed [25].
The drafting zone of the ring frame is a critical component that directly affects the uniformity
and strength of the yarn.
Modern ring spinning frames commonly employ a 3 over 3 rollers drafting system, where both
the top and bottom middle rollers are covered with aprons.
Short cradles are typically used in the top arm for cotton fibers. The front zone setting, which
depends on the drafting system type, is usually around 42.5 mm to 44 mm. The distance
between the front top roller and top apron should be approximately 0.5 to 0.7 mm when the
correct-sized top roller is utilized. Machinery manufacturers usually take care of this setting.
Altering this setting by a technician can result in more imperfections, particularly for carded
count yarns.
The bottom rollers are made of steel and have flutes for positive driving, while the top rollers
are covered with a synthetic rubber coating and driven by frictional contact with the bottom
➢ In production of yarn, a 3-over-3 roller with double apron drafting system is commonly
used to attenuate the sliver.
➢ In a system of three pairs of rollers, there are two drafting zones. The first or back zone
is designated the “break draft,” while the second or front zone is called the “main draft”.
➢ A pair of endless aprons is positioned in the high-draft front zone and made to move at
the surface speed of the middle-roller pair.
➢ As fibers enter the high-draft front zone, the aprons will hold them and assist in keeping
them moving at the surface speed of the middle rollers, while preventing the short-fibers
being dragged forward by those fibers nipped and accelerated by the front rollers.
➢ The magnitude of break draft is usually small, varying between 1.1 and 1.5; therefore,
the front draft (i.e. main draft) is responsible for the major part of the total attenuation
desired [25].
➢ The total draft is defined as the ratio of the surface speed of the front rolls to the surface
speed of the back rolls and is a product of the break draft and the main draft:
Due to fewer fibers in the front drafting zone, the fiber strand has very poor strength. This
situation necessitates providing enough guidance to the drafted material. This guidance is
performed with the help of aprons. The double apron drafting arrangements with longer
bottom aprons is the most widely used guiding system in all modern ring frame machines. In
order to be able to guide the fibres, the upper apron must be pressed with controlled force
against the lower apron. A controlled spacing (exit opening), precisely adapted to the fibre
volume is needed between the two aprons at the delivery for controlled force against bottom
aprons. The long bottom aprons have the advantage in comparison with short aprons. Long
aprons can be easily replaced when it gets damaged [24].
1. Creel
2. Roving Bobbin Holder
3. Roving Bobbin
4. Guide Roller
5. Drafting Arrangement
• Pressure Arm
o Front Cot Roller
o Cradle
o Top Apron
o Back Cot Roller
• Bottom Apron
• Tension Spring Bar
• Tension Bracket
• Nose Nar
• Steel Roller
o Needle Bearing
o Bearing Cone
o Roller Slide
6. Lappet
Unevenness (Um%) is a measurement used to assess the evenness of spun yarns and filament
yarns. While the coefficient of variation (CV) is commonly used to describe variations in textile
technology, unevenness (U) remains widely utilized. U represents the degree of mass variations
around the mean value and is not affected by the evaluation time or length of the material being
tested [26].
The coefficient of variation (CVm %) is a measure used to analyze mass variation. The CVm
value is derived from the standard deviation (S), which represents the distance from the mean
value to the inflection point of the normal distribution curve when a histogram is plotted based
on the mass variations. To calculate the coefficient of variation, the standard deviation is
divided by the mean value [26].
A thick place in yarn refers to a localized area where the yarn diameter is significantly greater
than 50% of the average yarn diameter. It occurs due to factors like uneven fiber distribution,
drafting variations, or inadequate control during spinning. These thick regions can impact the
yarn's appearance, quality, and performance [26].
A thin place in yarn denotes a localized section where the yarn diameter is notably lower, by
50% or more, than the average yarn diameter. It manifests as a region with reduced thickness
compared to the rest of the yarn. Thin places can arise due to factors like uneven fiber blending,
insufficient fiber tension, or inconsistencies in drafting.
These areas of decreased thickness can weaken the yarn, potentially affecting its strength,
durability, and overall quality [26].
2.5.5 Neps
Neps are small knots or tangles of fibers that can be found within a yarn.
Neps are characterized by having a cross-section that is equal to or greater than 200% of the
average diameter of the yarn. The presence of neps in yarn can impact its appearance, quality,
and performance, and efforts are made to minimize or eliminate neps during the manufacturing
process to ensure a smoother and more consistent yarn [26].
The Imperfection Index (IPI) of yarns, specifically for ring yarns, refers to the overall number
of imperfections present per 1000 meters of yarn. These imperfections include thin places (-
50%), thick places (+50%), and neps (+200%) [10].
A thin place (-50%) indicates that the cross-section of the yarn at that particular spot is only
50% or less of its mean cross-section.
Conversely, a thick place (+50%) suggests that the cross-section of the yarn at that point is
150% or more of its mean cross-section.
Lastly, a nep (+200%) signifies that the cross-section at the nep is 200% or more of the mean
cross-section of the yarn.
The Count Strength Product (CSP) is a calculation used specifically for cotton yarns. It is
derived by multiplying the yarn count by the lea strength. The measurement is based on testing
the strength of an 80-turn hank, which is made on a 1.5-yard wrap reel to obtain a total length
of 120 yards. The strength is typically measured in pounds force (lbf). The CSP value provides
valuable information about the combined count and strength characteristics of the cotton yarn
[26].
Lea: In the context of yarn, a lea refers to a specific unit of measurement where 120 yards of
yarn is wound around a package in 80 wraps. Each individual wrap has a length of 1.5 yards.
Raw material is the first and foremost substance to proceed with any industrial manufacturing.
Parameters Cotton
Origin India
Length 1.1/8
Strength 29 GPT
Trash 3%
Moisture 7.5%
Parameters Lycra
Blowroom
Carding
Breaker Drawframe
Finisher Drawframe
Simplex
Ringframe
Cotton Lycra blended yarn is a type of yarn that combines cotton fibers with lycra or spandex
fibers. Thus it is known that lycra and spandex fiber both are same which is a synthetic fiber
known for its exceptional elasticity. Blending cotton with lycra creates a yarn that combines
the natural properties of cotton, such as breathability and moisture absorption, with the stretch
and recovery properties of lycra or spandex.
The general overview of the working procedure for producing cotton lycra blended yarn is not
complex whereas the working procedure of other blended yarn have much more complex terms
and procedures. The reason behind the less procedure, is term called fibre blending doesn’t
take place but the blending is occurred on ring frame where roving of cotton and lycra yarn are
blended maintaining an specific ratio.
Selection of Raw Materials: The process starts with selecting high-quality cotton fibers
(Sankar, Indian) and lycra fibers (Origin, Vietnam). Cotton is typically chosen for its softness,
breathability, and moisture-absorbing properties, while Lycra is selected for its elasticity and
stretchiness. Cotton fiber parameters are checked on HVI 1000. And then fibers are ready for
take action on blow room section.
Carding: At very first chute matt of cotton is feed directly to carding machine. The feed
material are passed through carding machines, which align the fibers in a parallel orientation
to each other. This process helps to remove impurities and create a smoother, more uniform
yarn.
Drawing: The carded slivers are then drawn out to further align the fibers and improve their
uniformity by drafting and a little bit of twisting. At first breaker draw frame and after that
finisher draw frame makes the sliver smooth for further proceedings. This process also helps
to control the thickness and strength of the yarn.
Roving: After forming drawn sliver from draw frame, the output are twisted together to form
a continuous strand of roving at roving frame or simplex machine. This process can be adjusted
to control the further process of spinning.
Spinning: The roving of cotton and lycra yarn are blended together maintaining a specific
ratio. In the process of spinning, there have five different types of spacers, are settled at ten
different spindle in two ring frame machine for forming ten different sample of both 7 Ne and
16 Ne yarn. This samples preparing procedures took half an hour time and wound fully in ring
cops.
Blending The cotton roving and lycra yarns are mixed together in precise proportions according
to the desired characteristics of the final yarn. The blending process ensures uniformity and
consistency in the blend.
Testing: after that, the samples are tested in quality section. In this testing period of final yarn,
Uster Tester 4, Wrap Reel and Lea Strength Tester are used and these quality machines express
the data of various parameter. Firstly, unevenness, coefficient of variation, thick place, thin
After testing, tested result expressed in the data shit from the following testing machine.
Flow Chart of Rieter Blow room Line for Cotton Fiber Processing
UNIfloc A12
UNIclean B12
UNIflex A79
Condenser
Machine Specification
Table 3.4.1.1 Machine Specification of Unifloc machine
Model A11
Manufacturer Rieter
Frequency 50 Hz
Voltage 400 V
Machine Specification
Table 3.4.1.2 Machine Specification of Uniclean machine
Model B12
Manufacturer Rieter
Frequency 50Hz
Voltage 400V
Machine Specification
Manufacturer Rieter
Frequency 50Hz
Voltage 400V
Blending Chamber 8
Machine Specification
Manufacturing Rieter
Company
No. of Machine 2
Machine Specification
No. of Machine 2
No. of Machine 2
3.4.2 Carding
Machine Specification
Model C70
No. of Machine 12
Technical Parameters
Machine Specification
Table 3.4.3 Machine Specification of Breaker Draw Frame and Finisher Draw Frame
No. of machine 05 05
Technical Parameters
No. of doubling 8 8
No. of machine 5 5
Machine Specification
Model Rove-Matic AF
No of machine 8
Front - Middle: 40 mm
Roller gauge Middle - Back: 51 mm
Front -28.5 mm
Middle - 28.5 mm
Bottom roller diameter
Back - 28.5 mm
No. of machine 23 14
3 over 3
Drafting system 4 over 3
23 (Long Frame)
Front- 27 mm
Bottom roller diameter Middle - 27 mm
Back- 27 mm
Green - 3 mm
Spacer type and size for long Blue- 3.5 mm
frame Yellow -4 mm
Ring cop 40-42 mm
Doffing Automatic
Count range 30 Ne
Production 250-300 kg/shift
Manufacturer Uster
Model UT-4
Manufacturer MAG
Manufacturer MAG
CSP
3000
1951.488
2000
1500
1000
500
0
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
It is considered that yarns having Count Strength Product (C.S.P) of 1400 to 1800 are average.
1800-2200 is good and greater than 2200 are better and strong. For blended yarn the figures
roam around from 1900 to 2400. (16 Ne cotton lycra blended yarn)
In our case the graph shows for 3.0 mm spacer is the best in value among the other four
specimens.
CSP
2080
2064.6
2060
2038.2 2042.5
2036.7
2040
2020
2000
1980 1970.2
1960
1940
1920
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
On the other side, the following figure roam around 2000 to 2100. ( 7 Ne cotton lycra blended
yarn)
In our case the graph shows for 2.0 mm spacer is the best in value among the other four
specimens.
U%
10.88
10.49
10.25
10.1
9.84
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
Among the five options, the spacer diameter of 2.5 mm with an unevenness percentage (U%)
of 9.84 has the lowest value, indicating a relatively lower level of unevenness or irregularity
for 16 Ne blended yarn. Therefore, based on the provided information, the spacer diameter of
2.5 mm would be considered relatively better or more desirable for cotton-lycra blend yarn
production in terms of achieving a more uniform and consistent yarn quality.
8.03
7.82
7.72
7.64
7.42
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
Among the five options, the spacer diameter of 2.0 mm with an unevenness percentage (U%)
of 7.42 has the lowest value, indicating a relatively lower level of unevenness or irregularity
for 9 Ne blended yarn. Therefore, based on the provided information, the spacer diameter of
2.0 mm would be considered relatively better or more desirable for cotton-lycra blend yarn
production in terms of achieving a more uniform and consistent yarn quality.
350
300
246.3 240
250 226.3 222.6
200
150
100
50
0
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
In graph 4.1.3 Imperfection Index of yarn (IPI) we see that result obtained by 4.0 mm spacer
is lower in value than the value obtained from other four spacers.
IPI
80
70
70
60
50
40
30
20
20
17
10
12.5 12.5
0
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
50
0
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
Thin -50% 1.3 0 0 0 0
Thick +50% 92.5 72.5 100 171.3 91.3
Neps +200% 152.5 153.8 140 200 131.3
-50% thin place: In general terms, a lower thin place value indicates a relatively smaller
deviation in thickness compared to the surrounding areas, which is generally desired in yarn
production.
In this comparison, the thin place result of 0 for spacer diameter of 2.5 mm, 3.0 mm, 3.5 mm,
4 mm is the lowest among the five results. Therefore, these four types of spacer with a thin
place result of 0 would be considered relatively better or more desirable for cotton-lycra blend
yarn production in terms of thickness uniformity.
+50% thick place: In the context of cotton-lycra blend yarn production, a lower thick place
value is generally preferred as it indicates a smaller deviation in thickness compared to the
surrounding areas.
Among the five results, the spacer diameter of 2.5 mm with a thick place result of 72.5 has the
lowest value, indicating a relatively smaller deviation in thickness compared to the other two
options. Therefore, the spacer diameter of 2.5 mm with a thick place result of 72.5 would be
+200% neps: In cotton-lycra blend yarn production, a lower percentage of neps is generally
preferred as it indicates a lower presence of imperfections or small tangled fibers in the yarn.
Among the five results, the spacer diameter of 4.0 mm with a nep percentage of 131.3 has the
lowest value, indicating a relatively lower presence of neps in the yarn. Therefore, the spacer
diameter of 4.0 mm with a nep% of 131.3 would be considered relatively better or more
desirable for cotton-lycra blend yarn production in terms of yarn quality and the presence of
imperfections.
+50% thick place Among the five results, the spacer diameter of 2.0 mm with a thick place
result of 2.5 has the lowest value, indicating a relatively smaller deviation in thickness
compared to the other two options. Therefore, the spacer diameter of 2.0 mm with a thick place
+200% neps: Among the five results, the spacer diameter of 3.0 mm and 4.0 mm with a nep
percentage of 7.5 has the lowest value, indicating a relatively lower presence of neps in the
yarn. Therefore, the spacer diameter of 3.0 mm and 4.0 mm with a nep% of 7.5 would be
considered relatively better or more desirable for cotton-lycra blend yarn production in terms
of yarn quality and the presence of imperfections.
CV%
16
14
12 13.32 13.87
12.95 12.58 13.1
10
8
6
4
2 3.782.942.07 4.18 4.03 3.97 3.642.731.82
3.292.39 3.14 2.4 3.012.16
0
Spacer 2.0 Spacer 2.5 Spacer 3.0 Spacer 3.5 Spacer 4.0
CVm (%) 12.95 12.58 13.32 13.87 13.1
1m (%) 3.78 4.18 4.03 3.97 3.64
3m (%) 2.94 3.29 3.14 3.01 2.73
5m (%) 2.07 2.39 2.4 2.16 1.82
As it is known that, co efficient of variation is the ratio of standard deviation to the mean. The
higher the co efficient of variation, the greater the level of dispersion around the mean. It is
generally expressed as a percentage.
In the following graph for !6 Ne cotton lycra blended yarn, diameter of spacer is 2.5 mm
showed CV% value 12.58 which is the minimum value among five types of spacer. So that,
2.5 mm diameter of the spacer contains lower level of dispersion around the mean. (16 Ne
cotton lycra blended yarn.
Besides, for 7 Ne cotton lycra blended yarn, the following graph showed that, diameter of
spacer is 2.0 mm showed CV% value 9.39 which is the minimum value among five types of
spacer. So that, 2.0 mm diameter of the spacer contains lower level of dispersion around the
mean. (7 Ne cotton lycra blended yarn.)
i. The Imperfection Index (IPI) value stays low with higher bottom apron tension and
the position of the tension at middle ground. IPI increases with lowering the tension of
the bottom apron. Higher IPI value and lower bottom apron tension both are not
ii. The Count Strength Product (CSP) of the yarn is good for high range bottom apron
tension and also keeping the tension position at medium state. CSP decreases with
decrease of tension and that is not desirable characteristic of a good quality yarn.
5.2 Limitations
➢ Achieving consistent blending uniformity throughout the yarn production process can
be challenging, leading to variations in yarn properties across the production batch.
➢ The tensile strength and overall durability of the yarn may be affected depending on
the material used and its compatibility with viscose and linen fibers.
➢ Limited research and understanding exist regarding the long-term performance,
stability, and practical implications of using different spacer in large-scale production.
5.3 Conclusion
In this project, we have used different type of spacers on the production of cotton- lycra blended
yarnand found that 3.5 mm spacer is showing better results for 16 Ne yarn and 4.0 mm spacer
is showing better results for 7 Ne yarn. Basically, the running condition with both 3.5 mm and
4mm spacer is more popular in the industry.
The 3.5 mm spacer gave better results of Imperfection Index (IPI) & Count Strength Product
(CSP) as we know lower the IPI value greater the quality of yarn. Whereas 4.0 mm spacer
gave more convenient results in Rupture Per Kilometer (Rkm) & Elongation at break for
factory production. According to the result, yarn blended with 3.5 mm and 4.0 mm spacer can
bear more applied tension than the others. With the growing concern for environmental
Moreover, the type of analysis may help to update machine parts to make working procedure
suitable for the mankind.
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