Aluminum - Characteristics of Aluminum Alloy 3594 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Aluminum - Characteristics of Aluminum Alloy

1. Characteristics of Aluminum Alloy

1. Advantages of Aluminum Alloy

Light The specific weight of aluminum is 2.7, 1/3 of weight compared to iron (7.8) and copper (8.9)
Strong The alloy can offer tensile strength ranging from 7 to 60 kg/mm2 depending on its type and
through thermal refining. In addition, it increases strength under a super low temperature
environment.
High corrosion The aluminum easily be oxidized in the air and form a layer of aluminum oxide on the surface. The
resistance aluminum oxide layer is superb in corrosion resistance and prevents its own corrosion.
High conductivity The electrical conductivity is 60% of that of copper, at the same time, the weight is only 1/3 of that
of copper. Thus twice of the conductivity is achieved with aluminum alloy compared against the
copper when they are the same weight.
High processability Aluminum has high plastic forming capability and allows to form a variety of shapes. By utilizing a
special extrusion method, it is possible to make very complicated shapes easily.
No toxic property Aluminum is a non hazardous material with no smell. High in sanitation. Thus often used for

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kettles and other kitchen/food related products.
Easy to recycle It does not produce industrial waste. It can be recycled with only 3% of energy used for creating a
new virgin metal.

2. Corrosion of Aluminum Alloy

After a thin layer of aluminum oxide forms, aluminum alloy has high anti-corrosion performance. However, under some
conditions, the corrosion types below can occur:

Contact Corrosion (Electric or Galvanic Corrosion)

When aluminum alloy is placed in conditions where a conductive solution while in contact with different types of metals
with lower potential, the electrical potential difference causes galvanic corrosion of the aluminum alloy. It is also called
electric or galvanic corrosion. The contact corrosion rarely occurs in dry air, however it could happen locally under the
environment with presence of water content. It requires a special attention.

In order to avoid contact corrosion, always refer to the parts catalogue to choose the appropriate bolts, screws and
nuts to be used together with aluminum alloy body parts and replace them where specified.

General Corrosion
Occurs when the protective natural aluminum oxide layer is destroyed by a chemical agent. Aluminum alloy will be
corroded by both acid and alkali solutions.

3. Oxide Layer

The melting point of the oxide layer is very high, at 4,532 °F (2,500 °C). The hardness and specific weight of oxide layer is
higher than the aluminum alloy itself. The melting point of aluminum alloy is approximately 1,182 °F (640 °C).

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Aluminum - Precautions on Aluminum Alloy Panel Repair

Precautions in Repair Process

When aluminum and metal oxide (iron oxide) powders are mixed and ignited for some reasons, a strong redox reaction
occurs. This is called thermite reaction and can generates heat up to 5,432 °F (3,000 °C).

Separate and ventilate aluminum work areas to avoid mixing the aluminum power with other metal powders.

Aluminum is non toxic, however due to its light weight, its particles can easily be dissipated into the air. Always use
protective equipment to prevent dust from entering the lungs and eyes.
When aluminum is in contact with other types of metals (especially iron), it will cause galvanic (contact) corrosion on
aluminum.
Because of this characteristic, if the tools used for steel panel repair are then used on aluminum parts, the iron power will
adhere to the aluminum surface causing corrosion. Maintain a separate set of tools and work area used only for aluminum
repair.
When aluminum alloy is exposed to the air, an aluminum oxide layer will be generated in a short period of time. This oxide
layer can negatively impact putty and paint work, therefore basecoat treatment must take place immediately after sanding
and degreasing the surface.

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Aluminum is brittle and tends to crack and work harden easily. By heating, workability improves when restoring the
deformed areas and work hardening and crack can be prevented. Heating is very effective during repair, however the
temperature must be tightly controlled as the workability becomes the best only within a tight optimal temperature range.
When the temperature exceeds this range, the aluminum’s durability is reduced.

Aluminum Sanding Precautions:

－ Use separate sanding tools and coated abrasives for aluminum repair.

－ Use lower sanding tool speeds to reduce heat tool and avoid continuous heating work.

－ Do not use clogged sanding tools or coated abrasives.

－ Use only stainless wire brushes, never use a regular steel wire brush.

Aluminum Welding Precautions:

－ Clean the repair area before welding.

Confirm welding conditions using a test piece before making actual welds. Do not start the welding arc on the joint
－
surface.

－ Do not use a welding wire without referring to the information in the model specific body repair manual.

－ Use only 100% argon shielding gas.

Welding wire must be stored in a dry, temperature-controlled area inside a closed container. Do not use wire that has
－
been stored for a long time.

－ Do not use an oxyacetylene gas torch for welding or soldering.

Aluminum Metal Work Precautions:

－ If cracking is observed in the buckled area of structural components, replace the parts. Do not attempt repair.
The buckled area of 5000 grade aluminum parts must be straightened using heat within a tight temperature range. Do
－
not cold straighten this type of aluminum. Do not repair damaged aluminum castings.

－ Do not clamp tools directly to the aluminum.

－ Do not use a file-faced hammer.

－ Do not solder aluminum parts to repair them.

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－ Always apply epoxy based primer before putty application.

Aluminum Assembly Work Precautions:

－ Only use specified screws and bolts.

Aluminum Inspection Precautions:

－ After straightening and welding work on the structural parts is completed, make sure to check for cracks.

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Aluminum - Types of Aluminum Alloy 3593 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Aluminum - Types of Aluminum Alloy

1. Types of Aluminum Alloy

Aluminum with a purity of 99.00% or higher is called pure aluminum. Aluminum alloy is the combination of aluminum and various
different types of elements in order to improve the strength and other characteristics.
Aluminum alloy can be categorized into two major types of rolled alloy and cast alloy, the type chosen depends on the application
requirements. Rolled alloy is mainly used in a form of plates, pipes, sticks, wires, and some casting parts.
Cast alloy is mainly used for casting parts and die cast. They are also subcategorized into non heat-treatable and heat-treatable
alloys.
Non heat-treatable alloy can achieve the specified strength by a cold work including rolling process, meanwhile heat-treatable
alloy can achieve the specified strength by heat treatment including hardening and normalizing processes.

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Rolling Alloy
Non heat-treatable alloy Heat-treatable alloy
Types Characteristics Types Characteristics
1000 type Good in processability, corrosion 2000 type Equivalent strength as steel panels.
(pure aluminum) resistance, electro/thermal Al-Cu-Mg type alloy Known as duralumin.
conductivity. Poor in strength.
3000 type Good in processability, corrosion 6000 type Good in strength and corrosion
Al-Mn type alloy resistance and strength. Al-Mg-Si type alloy resistance. Suitable for extrusion
processes.
4000 type Good in heat and wear resistance. 7000 type The strongest alloy of all aluminum
Al-Si type alloy Al-Zn-Mg type alloy alloy.
5000 type Good in corrosion resistance and
Al-Mg type alloy welding capability. A wide variety of
types are available offering wide
range of application.

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Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Body and Frame Correction 3660 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Body and Frame Correction

1. Body and Frame Correction

Generally, the thickness of the core structural body parts

(such as the frame) is 1.5 to 2 times thicker than those for a
steel panel body.
During pulling correction of an aluminum alloy body, more
resistance will be felt than for a steel panel body.
When an aluminum alloy body is collapsed by collision
impact, the parts are easily cracked because of work
hardening. If the parts are pulled as is, cracking will occur,
making repair impossible. Therefore use aluminum’s
elongation characteristics and pull the damaged area using
a body and frame correction equipment while heating the
aluminum parts being straightened.

Heating and Temperature Control of Aluminum

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Alloy:

When aluminum alloy is heated over 392 °F (200 °C), its

elongation characteristics are improved. However its
melting point is as low as 1184 °F (640 °C).
Heated aluminum does not change color like steel sheet.
So there is no way to accurately judge the amount of heat
input. Therefore, it is extremely important to carefully
monitor the heating temperature by external means.
To accurately monitor and control the correct heating
temperature, always use heat detection crayon or paint that
changes color at 230 °F (110 °C).

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1. Apply heat detection crayon or paint about 25 mm (0.98 in)

away from the border of the flame contact area shown in
the figure with a width of about 10 mm (0.39 in).

2. Always move the flame tip around. Do not keep it at a fixed

point.

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3. Stop heating when the heat detection crayon or paint fully
changes color.

4. Restore the frame dimensions by pulling using a body and

frame correction machine. Repeat this process as
necessary.

5. Be sure to check for cracks after the repair.

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Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Crack Inspection

1. Crack Inspection

Always do crack inspections on aluminum alloy using a dye

penetrant testing after welding and correction processes.

Penetrant Test:

Dye penetrant uses its capillary action and strong penetration

capability to reveal minute cracks and defects that cannot be
seen during visual inspection.

Dye Penetrant Testing Method:

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Use a dye penetrant with a high contrast color against the
developer in a well lit area for better visibility.

Inspection Steps:

1. Prepare penetrant, developer and remover.

2. Clean dye and developer from the inspection areas using

the remover.

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3. Apply penetrant in the inspection areas. Let it stand for a

period of time to allow it to soak into the surface.

4. Remove excess penetrant from the inspection areas.

5. Apply developer to the inspection areas. Cracks will be

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detected by a color change.

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Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Overview

Aluminum alloy body repairs are basically done in a similar manner as for a steel body. However there are some points that
are different from each other due to aluminum’s characteristics. In particular, repair tools for aluminum-alloyed bodies are
completely different, and must be isolated from, those for steel panel bodies.

Pulling and Correction Repair:

Because some aluminum parts cannot be reformed due to their high rigidity, refer to the model specific body repair manual to
identify those parts.

Welding:
For welding methods, refer to aluminum alloy body welding section.
Be sure to check for cracks after welding.

Sanding:
Never use sanding tools that have been used for steel panels. If tools used for steel panels are used for aluminum alloy

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panel repairs, iron powder will remain on the aluminum panel, contaminating the welding area.
Always use only stainless steel wire brushes.
When a sanding tools such as a disc sander is used, set their rotational speed lower than for a steel panels. Do not press
the sander as hard against the aluminum panel. The heat of friction caused by excessive pressure cause the aluminum
alloy surface to peel, clogging the sanding disc surface. It will also deeply scratch the aluminum surface.

Aluminum Sheet Repair:

Do not use a shrinking hammer.
Do not repair using solder.
Heated aluminum does not change color like steel sheet. Always use heat detection crayon or paint to measure and control
the heat input during repairs.

Parts Installation:
Be sure to use fasteners specific deigned with anti-corrosion treatment for attaching aluminum parts.

Beware of possible thermite reactions while working. Refer to the fire and explosion risks under safety and cleanliness
section.

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Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Panel Repair

1. Panel Repair

Hammer off dolly Correction Using Hammers and Dollies:

Hammering out should be done, basically, the same way as

for steel panels.
Because aluminum alloy has a higher elongation rate than
steel, select use wood or plastic hammers depending upon
the repair requirements.
Always keep the hammer and dolly surfaces polished so
they do not damage the panel surfaces.
The hammer off dolly technique is used most it tends to
cause less elongation and work hardening. When a
hammer on dolly technique is required, pay careful
attention to the elongation and tap lightly.

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Hammer on dolly
To prevent cracks and deterioration in aluminum
parts, do not use solder to repair aluminum alloy
panels.

Shrinking (Drawing):

Shrinking of aluminum alloy panels is done the same way

as steel panels.
Always use heat detection crayon or paint to measure and
control the heat input during repairs.

When using a hammer for finishing, do not use a

serrated shrinking hammer or dolly like those used for
steel panels because it may cause cracks.

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Body Filler (Putty) Repairs:

Proceed with correction and repair the same as for steel

panels.
When removing old paint layers on aluminum alloy panels,
apply less pressure to the disc sander than for steel panels
to prevent distortion.
Use a sanding disk with P80 to P120.
Finish sand filled surfaces with P80 sandpaper.
Featheredge the repair area using P120 sandpaper.
Somebody fillers cannot be directly applied on a raw
aluminum alloy surface. In this case, apply epoxy-based
primer to the surface before body filler application.

Refer to the specifications issued by the body filler

and paint manufacturers for the appropriate body filler
or putty to be used on aluminum alloy.

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Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Repairing a Crack 3663 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Aluminum Alloy Body Repair - Repairing a Crack

1. Repairing a Crack

If any cracks are discovered during inspection, be sure to

repair them.

Welding Area:

Sand down the bead twice the length of the crack and correctly
re-weld.

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Panel Repair Area:

Drill about 2 mm (0.079 in) holes at both ends of the crack

to stop further progression.

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Weld the crack thoroughly.

If a crack appears during the pulling, be sure to

replace that part with a new one. Do not weld it.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Body Filler and Spot Putty

Putty is a paste-like paint used to fill deep dents that cannot be filled by other types of undercoat or secondary coats. There
are three types of commonly used fillers/putties:
Metal putty
Polyester putty
Lacquer putty

Apply fillers/putties selectively, depending on the depth of the dent to be filled. Putty is normally applied thickly by a body filler
scoop, or spatula, to fill the dent, then sanded smooth later.

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Metal Putty

A dual-component paint mainly consisting of an unsaturated polyester resin. It hardens when mixed with organic peroxides
(hardener). This putty is used mainly to correct surface irregularities on the base metal during sheet metal repair. It is very
flexible and can be applied in very thick coats up to around 30 mm (1.2 in). Metal putty is very porous and is difficult to sand.

Polyester Putty

A dual-component paint mainly consisting of an oil-modified unsaturated polyester resin. It hardens when mixed with organic
peroxides (hardener). This putty is used mainly to correct pores and shallow dents remaining after application of metal putty. It
has a very fine and flexible texture and primer-surfacer can be applied directly over it. It cannot be applied to in a thick coat
approx. over 3 mm (0.12 in). This putty should not be applied directly over the bare metal due to low adhesion under those
conditions.

Spot (Lacquer) Putty

This is a single-component putty mainly consisting of nitrocellulose and alkyd or acrylic resin. It is used mainly to fill shallow
sanding scratches, pores, or dents remaining after the primer-surfacer application.

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NOTE: Presently, there is a combination putty available which combine the best characteristics of several different putty types
into one.

Thickness Limitation of Putty:

There are limitations to the application thickness, which vary by filler or putty type can be applied at once per putty type.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Drying Water-Based Paint

1. Drying Water-Based Paint

Images of Drying Process When using water-based paint, the paint film is formed as the
water evaporates and dries. This is a similar method to de
drying laundry, so humidity and air flow rate have a significant
impact. In order to shorten the drying time of water-based
paint, water evaporation is accelerated by forcing a higher air
flow (by using a blower) and higher temperature (using a
heater to reduce humidity).

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Paint Performance Criteria

1. Paint Performance Criteria

Paint Film Layers for Production Vehicles (Ex.) Automotive paint finishes require multiples layers of coatings,
each with different performance criteria, to achieve the
required performance and durability levels.

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Paint Film Layers for Repair (Ex.)

Rust Prevention:
Rust prevention performance is crucial to the undercoat
(putty, primer-surfacer, etc.) that is applied directly to the
steel surface.
Filling:
Used to fill dents in the damaged bodywork, sanding
scratches and pin holes in the undercoat.
Absorption Prevention (Sealing):
Undercoating materials often have many tiny holes. When
the top coat is applied directly over those porous materials,
those holes will absorb the wet paint and the top coat will
lose its luster. To protect the top coat from absorption, a
sealer must be applied before the topcoats.
Luster:
When applied properly, paint gives the color, luster and
smoothness to the surface. In addition, all these elements
will be very durable.

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Adhesiveness:
The base metal or the undercoat must firmly hold the new
coat of paint to prevent peeling away from each other.
Workability:
The ease of handling and work speed of the paint finish
processes.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Primer

Primer is applied directly onto the bare metal to prevent corrosion and promote adhesion of the next paint coat. It is generally
applied as a very thin coat and does not require sanding. There are several kinds of primer. However, a pure primer is less
often used today in repairs and repainting, because a new product, primer-surfacer, has been developed to replace it.

Etching Primer

Also sometimes called wash primer. Etching primer mainly consists of vinyl butyral resins and zinc chromate (rust preventive
pigments) and an additive with phosphoric acid as a main base resin. Etching primer is available in two types, a single-
component type and a dual-component type. The dual-component type wash primer provides better rust preventive. Etching
primer must be applied very carefully because its adhesion power reduced if applied too thick or left to dry more than
necessary.

Urethane Primer

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A dual-component type primer mainly consisting of alkyd resins. It hardens when mixed with isocyanate (hardener). Urethane
primer provides outstanding corrosion protection and adhesion power, but requires hot air around 140 °F (60 °C) for drying.
Drying under normal temperature 68 °F (20 °C) or below is a very slow process.

Epoxy Primer

This is a dual-component type primer mainly consisting of epoxy resins. It hardens when mixed with an amine family hardener.
Similar to urethane primer, it also provides outstanding corrosion protection and adhesion power and requires hot air around
140 °F (60 °C) for drying. Drying under normal or low temperatures is a very slow process.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Primer-Surfacer

Primer-surfacer has characteristics of both traditional primers and surfacers. The most recent primer-surfacer has a stronger
characteristic as a surfacer:
Corrosion resistance (required for primer)
Smoothness (required for surfacer)
Sealing or absorption prevention (required for surfacer)
Adhesion (required for both primer and surfacer)

Urethane Primer-Surfacer

The two-liquid paint and base resin and hardener to be mixed before use. It will not dissolve in paint reducer/thinner after
completely dry, and has high sealing performance. The drying process is slow, so forced drying is recommended.

Thermoset Aluminum Alkyd Primer-Surfacer

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A thermoset type of primer-surfacer often used for paint repairs. Baking is required at 230－284 °F (110－140 °C) for 20－40
minutes. Resulting fill qualities are same as a new vehicle.

Surfacer

Surfacer helps adhesion of primer and topcoats. It also improves paint durability and water resistance. In addition, it can
remove sanding scratches filled or basecoat surfaces to improve paint finish quality. Has been mostly replaced by primer-
surfacer today.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Refinish Product Categories and Purposes

1. Refinish Product Categories and Purposes

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Specialized Paint Products

Paint Stripper (Coating Remover)

Chemical paint stripper is sometimes used when removing old paint film layers.
Chlorinated hydrocarbons are the main component, which is adjusted by a thickener to allow brush coating. A small amount of
paraffin is also found in paint stripper. Always rinse surfaces thoroughly with water after removing.

Plastic Bumper Paint

Used for urethane bumpers because of its high flexibility and improved adhesion.

Weld Through Primer (Spot Sealer)

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A high performance, rust proof and electrically conductive primer applied to the areas where spot or MAG plug welding is
being done. It is water-based and allows spot welding after coating.

Soft Chipping Guard Primer (Paint)

Special primer applied to the lower or bottom part of vehicles to protect parts from chipping damage cause by stones kicked up
from the road surface. It has a better appearance than undercoating and general film thickness is 100－200 μm (0.004－0.008
in). Its color is gray and chipping resistance (impact resistance, adhesiveness, elasticity) is high.

Degreaser

Remove contaminants such as wax and silicone from surfaces being prepared for paint.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Topcoats

Topcoats are applied last to give the color, luster, smoothness and other cosmetic qualities to the vehicle. Topcoats must also
protect these qualities over a long period of time from external factors (sunlight, rain, bird droppings, etc.). Topcoats may be
divided into several groups as shown below.

Topcoat Categories:

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Air Dry Type (Lacquer Type)

This type of top coats is commonly known as lacquers, and is divided into NC lacquers, NC acrylic lacquers and CAB acrylic
lacquers by the kind of resins used. Air-dry type topcoats have the following properties:
Quick-drying, but requires polishing when dry.
Far less resistant against weathering or chemicals than more recent topcoat types.
Not used much anymore due to durability and environmental issues.

Dual-Component Type (Urethane Type)

Topcoat where drying process includes a urethane reaction, which forms a net-like structure. The main agent and the
hardener, are kept separate until they are mixed together just before application.
The urethane type dual-component topcoats are further divided into following three groups by resins type and drying time.

Acrylic Urethane Lacquer

Dual component acrylic urethane is blended with nitrocellulose to quicken the drying speed. It hardens when mixed with an
isocyanate hardener. Nitrocellulose does not react with urethane hardener, and does not dissolve in solvent completely, so it is
not suitable for quick repairs. Has been mostly replaced by quick dry acrylic urethanes.

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Standard Acrylic Urethane

Commonly referred to as just ‘‘urethane’’ or ‘‘acrylic urethane,’’ this dual-component topcoat mainly consists of acrylic resins. It
hardens when mixed with an isocyanate hardener. It has an outstanding coating performance, but dries very slowly unless
force dried. It is suitable for painting large areas.

Quick Dry Acrylic Urethane

Often referred to as a quick-drying urethane. It is designed to shorten drying time without affecting the coating performance.
Made mainly of acrylic resins and hardens when mixed with an isocyanate hardener. Commonly used for paint repairs
because of its quick drying property and outstanding coating performance.

Baked Type

These are single-component type paints that harden when heated to about 284 °F (140 °C). Baked type paints that are used in
vehicle production lines are also sometimes used for repainting.
Examples of baked type topcoats are shown below.

Thermoset Aluminum Alkyd

Also called melamine baked paint, this is a solid type paint mainly consisting of melamine and alkyd resins. Mainly used for
solid colors.

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Thermoset Acrylic
Metallic paint mainly consisting of melamine and acrylic resins.

Waterborne Coating

A type of paint with a special water-based acrylic resin and very little organic solvent. This makes it more user and
environmentally friendly. Because this type of paint becomes thinner when shaken or agitated, it is relatively easy to handle
and especially suited for even application of metallic colors. When used with a solvent-based clear coat, the finish quality and
workability are basically equivalent to acrylic urethanes.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Water-Based Paint Characteristics

Water-based paint specifications vary slightly by product, but most share the basic characteristics below.

Paint Performance:
Environmentally friendly with low volatile organic compounds (VOC)
Little irritating smell specific to organic solvent
High coverage and durability
High blending performance and even application of paint film
Consistent color even under different painting conditions

Tools & Equipment:

Requires clean air supply
Requires high volume low pressure (HVLP) spray gun due to high viscosity
Requires forced air drying

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Coating, Drying Process:
No special skills required
Painting method is different from solvent based paint. Initial coat is wet, subsequent coats are gradually thinner
Must be allowed to dry completely before the next coat

Storing and Handling:

Store at a stable temperature
Keep from freezing temperatures
Need temperature controlled paint booth depending on the region
Avoid long term storage
Fire resistant and non-hazardous material

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Water-Based Paint Structure 3723 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Automotive Refinishing Products - Water-Based Paint Structure

1. Water-Based Paint Structure

Comparison of Water-Based Paint and Solvent-Based Pigment

Paint

Water-based paints, use the same basic pigments as

solvent-based paint. The solvent is simply replaced with water,
and additives are used to ensure stability when mixed. Some
water-based paints also contain a small amount of solid
matter.

Resin
Cold setting (drying) urethane resin is generally used because
it will achieve performance similar to a solvent-based paint.

Solvent

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Water is used as a solvent. Additives used for controlling the
paint’s viscosity and drying performance are also basically
water-based. However, specially distilled water (not tap-water)
is used.

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Automotive Refinishing Products - Wax & Grease Remover

Degreasing Agents:
Degreases metal surfaces, old paint films, and basecoats. Also removes oil (grease) and contamination after
sanding/grinding.
Fast drying with a low solvent effect. No risk of dissolving basecoats or old paint films.
There are several types depending on parts being painted and anti-static requirements.
There is a specific wax & grease remover for water-based paint.

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Before Starting Paint Repair - Determining Paint Finish and Compatible Repair Materials

1. Determining Paint Finish and Compatible Repair Materials

In paint repair, it is important to identify the old paint layer type

and its state of deterioration. To correctly evaluate the old paint
layer and decide on the type of paints to be used, follow these
methods.

Visual Check

Check the surface appearance and level of polish.

Solvent Method

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Wipe the paint film using a cloth wetted with lacquer thinner.

Thermal Method

Polish with P800 to P1000 sandpaper, and heat the sanded

area with an infrared lamp to 176 °F (80 °C) or higher.

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Quick Check Pencil Method

Press a flattened drawing pencil tip on the paint layer as

shown. The hardness of the pencil which does not mar the
paint layer identifies the paint layer hardness in the chart on
the next page.

Old Paint Film Status by Judgment Method

Type of Paint Film Judgment Method

Visual Check Solvent Thermal Pencil Check
Method Method
Melamine baked type Granulated Insoluble No change 2H
Acrylic baked type Finely granulated Insoluble No change 2H
Baked primer type ― Insoluble No change HB－H

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NC lacquer type Polished Soluble No change F－H
NC denatured acrylic lacquer type Polished Soluble Slightly B－HB
softened
CAB straight acrylic lacquer type Polished Soluble Softened B－HB
Acrylic Urethane Type Mirrored Insoluble No change H－2H
Quick drying acrylic urethane type Mirrored Hard to be No change H－2H
solved

Old Paint Film Status by Judgment Method:

Not all paint types can be used for paint repairs, depending on the condition of the old paint layers.
When the old paint layers are a baked or an acrylic urethane type that is not dissolved by lacquer thinner. Or if the old paint
layers are totally removed, including the basecoat, lifting rarely occurs.
If the old paint layer is a lacquer type that is dissolved by lacquer thinner, lifting often occurs during paint repair.
For this reason, repair paint types are limited.
Types of top coat paint corresponding to old paint layers.

Baked type NC lacquer NC CAB Acrylic Quick

paint denatured straight urethane drying
acrylic acrylic acrylic
lacquer lacquer urethane
NC lacquer ● ● ● ● ● ●
NC denatured acrylic lacquer type ● ● ● ● ● ●
Acrylic urethane ● ○ ○ ○ ● ●
Quick drying acrylic urethane type ● ○ ○ ○ ● ●
CAB straight acrylic lacquer type ● ○ ○ ● ● ●
●: Can be used, but when primer-surfacer is applied, use the same type of paint

○: Can be used depending upon the condition, but select the right primer-surfacer

After deciding on the paint type to be used, confirm the below processes.

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●: Required step

○: Optional step as needed

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Before Starting Paint Repair - Paint Repair Methods 3773 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Before Starting Paint Repair - Paint Repair Methods

1. Paint Repair Methods

Partial Repair

Spot Gradation Painting

A repair method to be used for a narrow range of the damage
for doors, food etc. In order to minimize the differences in
colors and surface appearances between the repainted area
and the surrounding panel, gradation paint is applied.

Block Gradation Painting

A repair method for enamel base with metallic colors by

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applying the gradation painting partially. Clear is painted to a
section of block (the whole panel). It also is used for solid
colors in some cases.

Block Painting
A repair method to apply paint for each panel, as the body
panels are divided into individual blocks such as a door, hood
etc. The entire panel is painted. No gradation painting usually
is applied except for the part between roof panel and rear pillar
depending on the situation.

Whole Painting

A repair method to apply the same color or new color to the

entire vehicle body.
In a case of numerous damaged spots spread over the vehicle
body, the whole painting is much better than the partial color
repairing.

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Before Starting Paint Repair - Work Processes and Descriptions

1. Work Processes and Descriptions

Generally, paint repair on a vehicle body is carried out using these steps.

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Body Damage Inspection - Front Body Damage

1. Front Body Damage

The framework of the front body is composed of the

bulkhead, front side frame, wheelhouse and damper
housing. In order to evaluate the damage correctly, it is
important to check not only for the deformation and cracks
of the component parts but also to check thoroughly for the
deformation of the dashboard and the front pillar.
Reliance on visual checks alone will overlook some serious
damage. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to measure
the body using an appropriate gauge. In particular, it is vital
to use a gauge to measure the damper housing and side
frame positions because both of them greatly influence
wheel alignment. The gauge must be used based on the
datum point placed on a non-damaged part.
It is possible to check the damage with the outer panel
assembled, but pay attention to the following points:

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Deformation of front bulkhead
－
Deformation of right/left front wheelhouses/damper
－
housings
Upper body dimension measurement
Deformation of right/left front side frames at frame rear
－
end
Deformation of dashboard upper/lower panels
－

Under body dimension measurement

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Body Damage Inspection - Rear Body Damage

1. Rear Body Damage

In addition to inspection of external appearance such as fit

and finish of the attached parts, also check for lateral,
horizontal, and vertical deformation.
When measuring damaged parts, place a datum point on a
non-damaged part:

Deformation of rear panels

－
Deformation of rear side outer panels
－
Fit and finish of trunk/rear inner panels/rear doors
－
Deformation of rear floor and rear frame
－

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Measurement of under body

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Body Damage Inspection - Side Body Damage

1. Side Body Damage

In addition to inspection of the external appearance such as fit

and finish of the doors, use a gauge to measure the level of
damages accurately by placing a datum point on a
non-damaged part:

Deformation of side sills

Deformation of front/center/rear pillars
Deformation of roof panel
Deformation of floor panel

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (without the HDS)

Shift to Test Mode 1

Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first,
then do this diagnosis if the HDS is not available.

1. Check the No. A18 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. B7 (10 A) fuse in
the under-dash fuse/relay box. If a fuse is blown, find and correct the cause, then replace the
fuse.

2. Move the front individual map light switch OFF, the interior light switch to the DOOR position,
the ceiling light switch to the MIDDLE position, and close all doors.
NOTE: Do steps 3－7 within 10 seconds.

3. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

4. Pull and hold the passing switch in its PASSING position.

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5. While holding the combination light switch is in PASSING position, turn to the PARKING
position, then release, pull, and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

6. Turn the combination light switch to OFF, then turn to the PARKING position, and turn to OFF
two more times.

7. Release the combination light switch.

8. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the front individual map lights and ceiling light. When the lights
flash quickly once, the system enters in Test Mode 1.

9. If the individual map lights keeps blinking after entering Test Mode 1. Check for B-CAN unit
communication error.

Error Display code

(blinking pattern)
Communication bus line error (BUS OFF). 1
The body control module cannot receive signals from the gauge 5
control module.

10. Check for B-CAN DTCs indicated by the LCD display while still in Test Mode 1. Press the
TRIP button to display the next code. After you get to the last code, the display shows END. If
no DTCs are stored, the display reads NO.
NOTE: If the test times out, turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode, and repeat steps 3－7.
Without Multi-Information Display (MID)

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With Multi-Information Display (MID)

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The control unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown after the letter
''PA'' on the multi-information display (MID).

Control Unit Control Unit I.D.

Number
Body control module 18
Power window master switch 30
Gauge control module 50
Climate control unit 51
Automatic lighting control unit-sensor 72
Automatic lighting/rain sensor 74
Immobilizer-keyless control unit 96
Front seat heater control unit A2
Wireless charger AF

NOTE: You can also check B-CAN communication status by the following methods:
The body control module self-diagnostic function Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 can check
some communication statuses and some switch circuits.
The gauge control module self-diagnostic function can check communication status.
11. Record all DTCs and sort them by DTC type, then troubleshoot them in this order:

Internal error DTCs

Loss of communication DTCs
Signal error DTCs

12. Clear the DTCs by pressing and holding the SEL/RESET knob for about 10 seconds.

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13. You will hear a beep to confirm the codes have been cleared. Operate the devices that failed,
and recheck for codes.

Shift to Test Mode 2

NOTE: Do steps 14－17 within 10 seconds.

14. Pull and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

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15. While holding the combination light switch is in PASSING position, turn to the PARKING
position, then release, pull, and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

16. Turn the combination light switch to OFF, then turn to the PARKING position, and turn to OFF
two more times.

17. Release the combination light switch.

18. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the individual map lights. When the lights flash two times quickly
and then go off, the system is in Test Mode 2.
NOTE: If you repeat this procedure, the system automatically returns to Test Mode 1.

19. The following tables list the circuits that can be checked in Test Mode 2. Operate the switch that is most closely related to the problem.
If the circuit is OK, the individual map lights, and ceiling light blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there is no such indication.

－ If the front individual map lights and ceiling light do not blink even when a switch is operated, check two or three other circuits
listed in the table. If the front individual map lights and ceiling light blink for each circuit, the additional circuits are OK; repair the
short or open circuit that failed the test in step 19.
－ If the front individual map lights and ceiling light do not blink again, this means that the control unit has failed without triggering a
DTC. Test a few more circuits. If they also fail, check the related control units using their input tests.

Body Control Module

Item
Driver's door switch Turn signal switch (LEFT)
Front passenger's door switch*1 Turn signal switch (RIGHT)
Passenger's door switch*2 Hazard warning switch
Left rear door switch*1 Headlight switch (ON)
Right rear door switch*1 Headlight switch (OFF)
Trunk lid latch switch Lighting switch
Trunk lid outer handle switch Passing switch
Left rear door lock knob switch (UNLOCK)*1 Fog light switch
Right rear door lock knob switch (UNLOCK)*1 Ignition key switch
Windshield wiper HI/LO switch Brake pedal position switch
*1: 4-door
*2: 2-door

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Item
Windshield wiper INT/LO switch Back-up light switch
Windshield wiper MIST switch Transmission range switch
Windshield wiper intermittent dwell time controller Driver's door outer handle touch sensor
Windshield washer switch Front passenger's door outer handle touch sensor*1
Hood latch switch Passenger's door outer handle touch sensor*2
Electric parking brake switch Driver's door outer handle lock switch
Park pin switch Front passenger's door outer handle lock switch*1
Clutch pedal position switch A Passenger's door outer handle lock switch*2
*1: 4-door
*2: 2-door

Door Multiplex Control Unit

Item
Driver's door lock switch (UNLOCK) Power window master switch
Driver's door lock switch (LOCK) (Driver's window UP, DOWN, AUTO)
Driver's door lock knob switch (UNLOCK) Power window master switch*2
Driver's door lock knob switch (LOCK) (Front passenger's window UP, DOWN, AUTO)
Driver's door key cylinder switch (UNLOCK)*1 Power window master switch*3
Driver's door key cylinder switch (LOCK)*1 (Passenger's window UP, DOWN, AUTO)

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Trunk lid opener switch Power window master switch*2
(Left rear window UP, DOWN)
Power window master switch*2
(Right rear window UP, DOWN)
*1: A second key is necessary to check the key cylinder inputs. Be sure to rotate the key cylinder switch two times to each position
(lock and lock, unlock and unlock) to ensure the door lock knob switch is in the appropriate position.
*2: 4-door
*3: 2-door

Gauge Control Module

Item
ACC/cruise control combination switch Automatic brake hold switch
VSA OFF switch SEL/RESET switch
Distance switch CMBS OFF switch
TPMS switch ECON switch
Integrated drive-mode switch

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (without the HDS)

Shift to Test Mode 1

Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first,
then do this diagnosis if the HDS is not available.

1. Check the No. A18 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. B7 (10 A) fuse in
the under-dash fuse/relay box. If a fuse is blown, find and correct the cause, then replace the
fuse.

2. Move the front individual map light switch OFF, the interior light switch to the DOOR position,
the ceiling light switch to the MIDDLE position, and close all doors and tailgate.
NOTE: Do steps 3－7 within 10 seconds.

3. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

4. Pull and hold the passing switch in its PASSING position.

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5. While holding the combination light switch is in PASSING position, turn to the PARKING
position, then release, pull, and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

6. Turn the combination light switch to OFF, then turn to the PARKING position, and turn to OFF
two more times.

7. Release the combination light switch.

8. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the front individual map lights and ceiling light. When the lights
flash quickly once, the system enters in Test Mode 1.

9. If the individual map lights keeps blinking after entering Test Mode 1. Check for B-CAN unit
communication error.

Error Display code

(blinking pattern)
Communication bus line error (BUS OFF). 1
The body control module cannot receive signals from the gauge 5
control module.

10. Check for B-CAN DTCs indicated by the LCD display while still in Test Mode 1. Press the
TRIP button to display the next code. After you get to the last code, the display shows END. If
no DTCs are stored, the display reads NO.
NOTE: If the test times out, turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode, and repeat steps 3－7.
Without Multi-Information Display (MID)

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With Multi-Information Display (MID)

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The control unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown after the letter
''PA'' on the multi-information display (MID).

Control Unit Control Unit I.D.

Number
Body control module 18
Power window master switch 30
Gauge control module 50
Climate control unit 51
Automatic lighting control unit-sensor 72
Automatic lighting/rain sensor 74
Immobilizer-keyless control unit 96
Front seat heater control unit A2
Wireless charger AF

NOTE: You can also check B-CAN communication status by the following methods:
The body control module self-diagnostic function Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 can check
some communication statuses and some switch circuits.
The gauge control module self-diagnostic function can check communication status.
11. Record all DTCs and sort them by DTC type, then troubleshoot them in this order:

Internal error DTCs

Loss of communication DTCs
Signal error DTCs

12. Clear the DTCs by pressing and holding the SEL/RESET knob for about 10 seconds.

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13. You will hear a beep to confirm the codes have been cleared. Operate the devices that failed,
and recheck for codes.

Shift to Test Mode 2

NOTE: Do steps 14－17 within 10 seconds.

14. Pull and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

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15. While holding the combination light switch is in PASSING position, turn to the PARKING
position, then release, pull, and hold the combination light switch in its PASSING position.

16. Turn the combination light switch to OFF, then turn to the PARKING position, and turn to OFF
two more times.

17. Release the combination light switch.

18. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the individual map lights. When the lights flash two times quickly
and then go off, the system is in Test Mode 2.
NOTE: If you repeat this procedure, the system automatically returns to Test Mode 1.

19. The following tables list the circuits that can be checked in Test Mode 2. Operate the switch that is most closely related to the problem.
If the circuit is OK, the individual map lights and ceiling light blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there is no such indication.

－ If the front individual map lights and ceiling light do not blink even when a switch is operated, check two or three other circuits
listed in the table. If the front individual map lights and ceiling light blink for each circuit, the additional circuits are OK; repair the
short or open circuit that failed the test in step 19.
－ If the front individual map lights and ceiling light do not blink again, this means that the control unit has failed without triggering a
DTC. Test a few more circuits. If they also fail, check the related control units using their input tests.

Body Control Module

Item
Driver's door switch Park pin switch
Front passenger's door switch Clutch pedal position switch
Left rear door switch Turn signal switch (LEFT)
Right rear door switch Turn signal switch (RIGHT)
Tailgate latch switch Hazard warning switch
Tailgate outer handle switch Headlight switch (ON)
Tailgate lock switch Headlight switch (OFF)
Left rear door lock knob switch (UNLOCK) Lighting switch
Right rear door lock knob switch (UNLOCK) Passing switch
Windshield wiper HI/LO switch Fog light switch
Windshield wiper INT/LO switch Ignition key switch

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Item
Windshield wiper MIST switch Brake pedal position switch
Windshield wiper intermittent dwell time controller Back-up light switch
Windshield washer switch Transmission range switch
Rear window wiper switch Driver's door outer handle touch sensor
Rear window wiper INT switch Front passenger's door outer handle touch sensor
Rear window washer switch Driver's door outer handle lock switch
Hood latch switch Front passenger's door outer handle lock switch
Electric parking brake switch

Door Multiplex Control Unit

Item
Driver's door lock switch (UNLOCK) Power window master switch
Driver's door lock switch (LOCK) (Driver's window UP, DOWN, AUTO)
Driver's door lock knob switch (UNLOCK) Power window master switch
Driver's door lock knob switch (LOCK) (Front passenger's window UP, AUTO)
Driver's door key cylinder switch (UNLOCK)* Power window master switch
(Left rear window UP, DOWN)
Driver's door key cylinder switch (LOCK)*
Power window master switch
(Right rear window UP, DOWN)
*: A second key is necessary to check the key cylinder inputs. Be sure to rotate the key cylinder switch two times to each position

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(lock and lock, unlock and unlock) to ensure the door lock knob switch is in the appropriate position.

Gauge Control Module

Item
ACC/cruise control combination switch Automatic brake hold switch
VSA OFF switch SEL/RESET switch
TPMS switch CMBS OFF switch
ECON switch Integrated drive-mode switch

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A - Initial Communication and DTC Checks

Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first,
then do this diagnosis if the symptom is related to the B-CAN system.

1. Compare the symptom with this list of B-CAN related systems:

Gauge control module

Exterior lights
Turn signals
Entry light control
Interior lights
Safety indicators
Horns (security and panic)
Reminder chimes (seat belt, lights-on, and parking brake)
Power window/moonroof timer
Wiper/washer
Security
Keyless entry
Key interlock

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Power door locks
Dashlights brightness
Immobilizer
Daytime running lights
Keyless access control
Climate control
Seat heater
Wireless charger

－ If the symptom is related to the B-CAN system, go to step 2.

－ If the symptom is not related to the B-CAN system, go to the system symptom
troubleshooting.■

2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A), then turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

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3. From the BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SELECT menu, select B-CAN CONTROL UNITS
INFORMATION, and then select CHECK CONNECTED CONTROL UNITS listed to see if the
following control units are communicating with the HDS.

MICU
Gauge control module
Climate control unit
Automatic lighting/rain sensor
Automatic lighting control unit-sensor
Immobilizer-keyless control unit
Door multiplex control unit
Front seat heater control unit

NOTE:
If a unit is communicating with the HDS, "DETECT" is displayed.
If a unit is not communicating or the vehicle is not equipped, "NOT AVAILABLE" is
displayed.
The HDS only checks the status one time when BODY ELECTRICAL is selected. To
recheck the status after repair, reboot the HDS.

－ If all control units are communicating with the HDS, go to step 4.

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－ If any of the control units are not communicating, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
Mode B.■
－ If all units are not communicating or only the body control module is communicating, go
to body control module DTC U1280 troubleshooting.■

4. Select the system that has the problem from the BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SELECT
menu, then select DTCs.

－ If any DTCs are indicated, go to step 5.

－ If the problem is related to one of the following items and the system that is
malfunctioning does not stop or turn off, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C.■
－ If the problem is related to one of the following items and the system that is
malfunctioning does not run or turn on, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode D.■
Exterior lights
Turn signals
Entry light control
Interior lights
Horns (security and panic)
Wiper/washer
Power window
Power door locks

－ If the problem is related to one of the following items, go to the troubleshooting for that
individual system.■
Gauge control module
Safety indicators
Reminder chimes (seat belt, lights-on, and parking brake)
Security
Keyless entry
Dashlights brightness
Immobilizer
Rear window defogger (climate control)

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Climate control
Keyless access control
Seat heater

5. Record all DTCs, and sort them by DTC type, then troubleshoot them in this order:

Internal error DTCs.

Loss of communication DTCs.
Signal error DTCs.

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode B - Control Unit Not Communicating

Do this diagnosis if any of the control units are not communicating (NOT AVAILABLE is displayed
in the HDS) as found by the B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.

1. Using the HDS, select the system that has the symptom from the BODY ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SELECT menu.

2. Select DTCs, and then check for loss of communication DTCs.

－ If any loss of communication DTCs are indicated, go to step 3.

－ If any loss of communication DTCs are not indicated, replace the body control module.■

3. Do the power, ground, and communication part of the input test for the unit(s) not communicating
with the HDS.

Unit not communicating

Body control module
Gauge control module
Climate control unit
Power window master switch
Keyless access control unit

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Immobilizer-keyless control unit
Automatic lighting/rain sensor
Automatic lighting control unit-sensor
Front seat heater control unit
Wireless charger

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C - No DTCs and Output Won’t Shut OFF

Do this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not stop or turn off.

NOTE:
If the component does not turn on, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode D.■
See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the
control units that monitor the input and control the output devices.

1. Check for DTCs by selecting the system MODE MENU from the HDS.

－ If any DTCs are indicated, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.■
－ If any DTCs are not indicated, go to step 2.

2. Turn off the switch that controls the malfunctioning component.

3. Select the applicable system from the system MODE MENU, then select DATA LIST, and
check the input of the switch that controls the related component.

－ If HDS indicates the switch is OFF, go to step 4.

－ If HDS indicates the switch is not OFF, go to step 6.

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4. In the DATA LIST, check the output signal of the malfunctioning component.

－ If the output signal is OFF, go to step 5.

－ If the output signal is not OFF, replace the control unit that controls the device that will
not turn OFF.■

5. Check the relay that does not stop or turn off, if applicable, then check for a short in the wire
between the relay and the component, the relay and control unit, or the component and
control unit.

－ If the relay and the wire harness are OK, replace the control unit that controls the
component that will not stop or turn OFF.■
－ If the relay and the wire harness are not OK, replace the relay or repair/replace the wire
harness.■

6. Check the switch, then check for a short in the wire between the switch and the control unit
that monitors the switch.

－ If the switch and the wire harness are OK, replace the control unit that monitors the
switch.■
－ If the switch and the wire harness are not OK, replace the switch or repair/replace the
appropriate wire harness.■

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Body Electrical Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode D - No DTCs and Output Won’t Turn ON

Do this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not run or come on.

NOTE:
If the component does not turn off or stop, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C.
See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the
control units that monitor the input and control the output devices.

1. Check the fuse of the malfunctioning output device.

－ If the fuse is OK, go to step 2.

－ If the fuse is not OK, replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again, repair the short to ground
on the fuse circuit of the malfunctioning device.■

2. Check for DTCs by selecting the system MODE MENU from the HDS.

－ If any DTCs are indicated, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.■
－ If any DTCs are not indicated, go to step 3.

3. Turn ON the switch that controls the malfunctioning component.

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4. Select the applicable system from the system MODE MENU, then select DATA LIST, and
check the input of the switch that controls the related component.

－ If there is an output signal, go to step 5.

－ If there is not an output signal, go to step 9.

5. Check the relay (if applicable) and ground, then check for an open or a short in the circuit for
the malfunctioning component.

－ If the relay and the wire harness are OK, go to step 6.

－ If the relay and the wire harness are not OK, replace the relay or repair the wire circuit.■

6. Do the function test for the malfunctioning component.

－ If the output device pass the function test, go to step 7.

－ If the output device does not pass the function test, replace the component.■

7. With the malfunctioning output device connected, connect a voltmeter between the
malfunctioning output device and body ground on the wire that the control unit uses to control
the output device circuit.

8. Select FUNCTIONAL TESTS from the system MODE MENU, and do the forced operation test
of the malfunctioning component.

－ If the voltage changes (12 V to 0 V, or 0 V to 12 V), inspect the ground for the
component. If OK, replace the component.■
－ If the voltage does not change, replace the control unit that controls the malfunctioning
component.■

9. Select DATA LIST from the system MODE MENU, and make sure the switch signal input for
the malfunctioning system indicates a change when operated.

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－ If the switch input indicates ON when the switch is ON, replace the control unit that
controls the malfunctioning component.■
－ If the switch input does not indicate ON when the switch is ON, go to step 10.

10. Check the switch and its ground (if applicable), then check for an open or a short in the wire
between the switch and the control unit that monitors it.

－ If the switch and the wire harness are OK, replace the control unit that monitors the
switch.■
－ If the switch and the wire harness are not OK, replace the switch, or repair/replace the
wire harness.■

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Body Panel Technical Requirements - Overview 3565 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Panel Technical Requirements - Overview

1. Overview

Steel sheets used for automobile bodies are mostly carbon steels (carbon-ferrous alloy) because of the stamping
requirements and resistance to severe usage conditions that vehicles must endure.
Depending upon the steel’s carbon content, technical properties of the metal are changed. Higher the carbon content
increases impact resistance, but the formability and weldability are reduced. Even panel repair would be difficult. For these
reasons most body parts are made from low carbon steels, with a carbon content of 0.1 to 0.4% or less.
Recently, more high-strength steel has been used. Though much thinner than conventional soft steel, it provides the same
level of strength. High-strength steel sheet has a higher tensile strength, 340 MPa or higher, and a higher yield point. This
makes it possible to reduce the total weight of a body, while maintaining collision safety.
Where required, zinc-plated sheets are used to improve corrosion resistance.
Body component parts have different section requirements. Because most are press formed from a thin steel sheet, different
rigidities are specified, depending upon where strength is needed, by adding different thicknesses or reinforcements.
Example: Main parts using high-strength steel and zinc-plated sheets

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Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - 5S (Organization of Work Envir... http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - 5S (Organization of Work Environment)

1. 5S (Organization of Work Environment)

5S means:
Sort (Seiri)
Straighten (Seiton)
Shine (Seisou)
Standardize (Seiketsu)
Sustain (Sitsuke)

Use of the 5S process is required to build a safe and

comfortable working environment. It also promotes efficient
and smooth workflow:
Sort (Seiri): Sort out what is necessary and unnecessary.
Remove or clean up unnecessary items.
Straighten (Seiton): Organize the items so they can be
accessed and used immediately when needed.

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Shine (Seisou): Keep your work environment clean at all
times.
Standardize (Seiketsu): Maintain organized and clean
working conditions at all times.
Sustain (Sitsuke): Enforce the above rules for all work
areas.

Building a standardized and clean work environment

－
contributes directly to a highly efficient workflow. In
addition, it provides a positive impression to customers
and helps generate repeat business.
It is very important to comply with the rules and
－
common sense in order to cultivate healthy and
respectful business and work relationships.

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Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Dust and Fumes 3535 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Dust and Fumes

1. Dust and Fumes

Size of dust Dust

Tiny particles generated during grinding and welding

processes are commonly called dust.
Dust can enter into the lungs and may cause respiratory
disorders such as Pneumoconiosis.

Protection Equipment: Always wear a respirator or dust mask

approved for the materials you are working with.
Although the size of dust particles may differ depending on
the material, those sized 0.1 to 5μm generally end up in the
lungs most frequently.
Most dust is inhaled during breathing.

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Welding Fumes

Welding fumes are tiny airborne particles generated during arc

welding, such as MAG or MIG, when the base material and
welding wire are heated to the point of vaporization. Prolonged
breathing of welding fumes can cause these particles to
accumulate in the lungs and may result in “welder’s lung”,
which is a kind of pneumoconiosis.

Zinc Fumes

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Many steel parts are zinc plated for corrosion resistance.
When the zinc coating is vaporized during cutting, welding, or
brazing of galvanized steel, exposure to these fumes can
cause an acute allergic condition known as “Metal Fume
Fever”. The symptoms of metal fume fever are very similar to
those of common influenza. This condition can be avoided by
adequately ventilating the work area and wearing a respirator
approved for use with zinc fumes.

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Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Fire and Explosion Risks 3533 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Fire and Explosion Risks

1. Fire and Explosion Risks

Organic Solvents:
Vapors created by organic solvents are generally heavier than
air. They generally sink to floor level and stagnate in recessed
areas. Organic solvents are generally considered as a
hazardous materials, so extra caution is required during
storage and handling.

The symbols at left on packaging indicate that the chemical

contained inside is Flammable (will ignite and burn readily) or
an Oxidizer (may, generally by yielding oxygen, cause or
enhance the combustion of other materials):
Most of the paint used for automobile refinishing is
flammable.
Hardening agents (catalysts) used with body fillers and
Example of ventilation system fiberglass may be flammable, an oxidizer, and also

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generate heat during curing.

Ventilation systems should be installed at the

lowest point on the shop floor for thorough vapor
removal.
Keep lids on containers of organic solvents such
as paint and reducers.
Follow established precautions for flammable
material storage and dispensing, such grounding
containers to prevent static discharge.

Keep lids on containers of chemicals such as paint and

reducers or thinners

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Grounded flammable material container

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2. Thermite reaction

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Aluminum repair areas should be completely separated

by wall or curtains to prevent aluminum dust from mixing
with iron oxide or any other material

Thermite reaction:
Thermite reaction is an active oxidation-reduction reaction
when powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust) powders are
allowed to mix. Once ignited, it will combust at temperatures in
excess of 4,500°F (2,500°C).

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Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Organic Solvent Toxicity 3534 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Organic Solvent Toxicity

1. Organic Solvent Toxicity

Toxic Effects of Organic Solvents

Organic solvents may enter the human body by inhalation of

the vapors, or direct skin contact. They tend to concentrate in
organs with high amounts of fat, such as the liver. Depending
on the amount and length of exposure, symptoms can become
acute or chronic. The main symptoms are shown below:
Skin rash
Respiratory (breathing) difficulty
Mental confusion
Dizziness, anemia etc. (blood generation stops)
Symptoms of poisoning (acute, chronic)

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Health Hazards Associated With Solvent
Exposure

Toxicity to the nervous system

Reproductive system damage
Liver and kidney damage, respiratory impairment, cancer,
and dermatitis

Precautions for Isocyanate Group (-NCO)

Compounds

Hardeners used with two-component urethane paints

contain isocyanate compounds.
Health effects of isocyanate exposure include: irritation of
skin and mucous membranes, chest tightness, and difficulty
breathing.
Isocyanates include compounds also classified as potential
human carcinogens and known to cause cancer in animals.
Always wear a respirator, protective clothing, and gloves
designed and approved for use with isocyanates. when
working with chemicals containing these compounds.
If you experience any of the above symptoms, stop using
isocyanate compounds immediately and seek medical
attention.

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Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - What is an MSDS? 3536 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Body Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - What is an MSDS?

1. What is an MSDS?

MSDS stands for “Material Safety Data Sheet”. It is intended to

provide workers and emergency personnel with procedures for
handling or working with that substance in a safe manner.

Always review the MSDS before using any chemical so you

know how to safely use it and what to do in case of a problem
such as a spill occurs.

Information Included In a Typical MSDS:

Material name and contents volume

Physical data (melting point, boiling point, flash point, etc.)
Toxicity

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Health effects
First aid
Reactivity
Storage requirements
Disposal
Protective equipment
Spill-handling procedures
Note that MSDS formats can vary from source to source within
a country depending on national requirements.

This mark indicates a toxic substance. Do not inhale or take

internally and avoid direct skin contact.

This mark indicates a substance is oxidizer and may easily

react with other products, generally by yielding oxygen, and
cause or enhance the combustion of other materials.

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This mark indicates a flammable product that will ignite at

relatively low temperatures, such as room temperature.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Bending and Strength 3572 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Bending and Strength

1. Bending and Strength

While considering design and strength, automotive body

panels are press-formed in various shapes. By giving a steel
panel its own designed shape, strength is increased. By
assembling that panel with other parts, body rigidity is
enhanced.

Steel Sheet Bending:

Automotive body panels are press formed with sharp bent

areas where higher strength is necessary. Those sharply
bent areas are called a crowns and have the following
categories:
<Low Crown>
The bend radius of the curve is great or the edge is very

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gently sloping.
<High Crown>
The bend radius is very small or the edge is very sharp.
<Combination Crown>
A low crown and high crown are combined on one panel.
<Reverse Crown>
An edge sharply curved inward toward the panel.

When repairing a damaged body or panel, smaller loads

are required for a low crowned panel because it has a large
radius. A high crowned panel for deep-draw has a small
radius and requires a certain level of pulling force against
the deformation area. A reverse crown is incorporated in a
panel that has a sharp inward curvature. Because of this,
the strength is so concentrated that repair becomes difficult.

Angle Bending:

Panel is bent at a right angle. This is mainly used for doors,

fenders and some outer panels.

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Channel Bending:

This steel sheet bending method has greater strength than

angle bending. It is mainly used for under-body component
parts such as stiffeners, rear frame, cross members or a floor
frame.

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Box Gutter:

Used for parts that require higher strength such as side sills,
pillars, roof side rail, and front side frame.

Beading:

Used for large panels such as the floor and roof, where the
grooves strengthen the entire panel.

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Hemming:

Used to joint skin panels such as hood, door and trunk to an

inner frame or panel. It is also used in the rear wheel arch area
of some models.

Burring:

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Used around the punched water drain holes in floor panels.
The projected edge around the hole increases panel strength.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Elasticity 3567 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Elasticity

1. Elasticity

Elastic deformation Elasticity is a property of metal which allows the returns to

its original shape when a deformation force is removed.
Even if a steel plate is bent with your fingers it returns to the
original shape when the force is removed from the plate
without leaving any deformation. This returnable
deformation is called an elastic deformation and this
characteristic of metals is known as “elasticity”.
If more pressure is applied beyond the point of elasticity,
the deformation remains even after the pressure is
removed and the metal does not return to its original shape.
This occurs when the force exceeds the metal’s elastic
limit. The harder the steel, the greater the elasticity.
Therefore, as the steel is hardened, elasticity is increased.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Heat Change 3570 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Heat Change

1. Heat Change

Changes in steel sheets due to heat application can be divided into the following types:
Scale (iron scorch = Thin oxidized layer that appears on heated steel)
Change to molecular structure
Expansion and shrinkage

These changes to steel panels mainly occur through heating during body panel welding work, oxyacetylene torch heating, and
friction heat from grinding or sanding.

As steel sheet is heated, the color changes until it starts to melt at 2,132 °F (1,500 °C).
Color Temperature Range °F (°C) Color Temperature Range °F (°C)
Dark Red 1,112 (600) Yellow 1,832 (1,000)
Red 1,292 (700) Orange 2,012 (1,100)
Rose-pink 1,562 (850) White 2,192 (1,200)

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Yellowish Red 1,652 (900) Bright White 2,282 (1,250) or higher

Heating Temperature and Material Change:

As a steel sheet is heated, its plasticity increases. However, if the temperature of the sheet exceeds a certain point, it becomes
hard and brittle. Therefore, it is important not to exceed 1,333 °F (723 °C) during steel processing to prevent this structural
change. At 392-482 °F (200-250 °C), blue heat brittleness happens to the sheet. If 1,328 °F (720 °C) is exceed, red brittleness
occurs. Further, if it goes to over 1,652 °F (900 °C), the steel grains become large and rough causing oxidization and weakening
of the material.

Brittleness

Generally, the more heat applied to a metal, the softer it becomes and the easier it is to work with. But, where soft steel is
concerned, hardness and tensile strength peak then elongation decreases at a certain temperature.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Heat Treatment 3571 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Heat Treatment

As temperature increases, structural change (transformation) takes place in the metal. If the cooling speed is quickened, the
progress of the transformation is delayed and, as a result, a metal structure that is unusual at a normal temperature can be
obtained. Heat treatment is a technical process to obtain metallic features to meet desired requirements through heating and
cooling.

Hardening and Tempering:

A kind of heat treatment used for cutting tools and blades that have to be harder than what they are cutting:
Hardening is done by quickly heating up the material up to a high temperature 1,472 °F (800 °C) and then submerging it in
water or oil. As the result of this process, the steel becomes a few times harder. Hardened steel also becomes brittle.
Tempering heats up the metal to around 1,112 °F (600 °C) then gradually cools it. This process increases the toughness of
steel.

Normalizing:

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This heat treatment process decreases metallic grain size after they are made large and rough during heating or casting. By
removing eccentric crystallization and residual stress, the metal’s properties are returned to normal. Usually the metal is
heated up to 1,472-1,652 °F (800-900 °C) and then gradually cooled down.

Annealing:

This heat treatment process alters the physical and sometimes chemical properties of a material to increase its ductility and to
make it more workable. This may be required after a material has been work hardened by cold working or a hardened.
Depending upon the kinds and use of materials, heating temperature, time duration of holding temperature, cooling
temperature, and speed has to be adjusted.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Plasticity 3568 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Plasticity

1. Plasticity

Plastic deformation When a steel plate is severely bent, it may partially return to
its original shape, but it remains permanently bent. This is
called “plastic deformation” and the characteristic of not
returning to the original shape is called “plasticity”.
Automotive body panels such as fenders, hood, roof panel
and others are press formed into each required shape from
large steel sheets. In this way, the characteristic that the
shape of an object remains changed after a pressure is
applied is plasticity. It is also possible to change the shape
of an object by pulling (tension strength) or pressing it. The
deformation caused by pulling is called “ductility” and the
one by pressing is called “malleability”. The result of ductile
deformation is an elongation and the one of pressing
deformation is compression.

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Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Work Hardening 3569 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Characteristics of Steel Sheet - Work Hardening

1. Work Hardening

When a metal wire is repeatedly bent and straightened, it is

gradually hardened. In the same way, a steel sheet
becomes hardened and strong through work hardening
(plastic deformation).

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When a flat steel sheet is bent and straightened, the first
bent area (A) remains and the new bent areas are formed
on both sides of the sheet. It happens because the first
bent area becomes hardened and strong through work
hardening. In the same way, when a body panel is press-
formed (plastic deformation), work hardening occurs.

On a collision damaged vehicle, the same work hardening

occurrs where parts were buckled (buckling) due to the
external impact force. Work hardening also takes place
when the parts are repaired.

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Cutting Tools 3674 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Cutting Tools

1. Cutting Tools

Air Saw:

Used to cut outer panels.

Makes quick, clean cuts, but noise and vibration can be
significant.

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Air Chisel:

Used for rough cutting when removing damaged parts.

Compact and light in weight. Excellent for hammering out
damage to access other parts.
Can cut straight, curved, or along stamping lines when
cutting panels.
No cutting chips produced.
Noise and vibration are significant.

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Definition and Purpose of Finish (Painting) - Definition of Finish 3702 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Definition and Purpose of Finish (Painting) - Definition of Finish

1. Definition of Finish

A term used to describe the entire process to form a paint film

on vehicle bodies and parts using paint in liquid or powder
form.

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Definition and Purpose of Finish (Painting) - Purpose of Finish 3703 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Definition and Purpose of Finish (Painting) - Purpose of Finish

1. Purpose of Finish

Steel Protection
Automobiles are made of steel (steel sheet) for the most part.
Left unprotected, steel oxidizes with exposure to and oxygen in
the air, resulting in rust. The main purpose of the vehicle’s
finish is to protect steel parts from rusting.

Appearance Improvement
Automobiles use a wide variety of surfaces and styling lines.
These complex forms create a pleasing, dynamic image with a
sense of speed. Automotive finishes provide a three-
dimensional color sense, and a beautiful appearance, which
enhances the value of the product.

Safety Indicators
Finish coatings are also applied to, some vehicles, road signs

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and even highways as lane markings to help prevent accidents
and contribute to overall traffic safety.

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Factory Paint Finish Information - Factory Paint Finish Application Proce... http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Factory Paint Finish Information - Factory Paint Finish Application Process

1. Factory Paint Finish Application Process

There are many requirements for body coating such as

external finish (appearance), durability, corrosion resistance
and others, as it has a significant impact on quality and
marketability of the vehicle. Mass production vehicles go
through a multi-layered painting process, including chemical
conversion coating and basecoating for corrosion resistance
and improved durability. The middle and topcoats provide a
high quality external finish. There are also many more paint
processes require to produce high quality automobile bodies
and parts.

1. Chemical Conversion Coating Process:

The vehicle body is fully immersed (dipped) into acrylic
washer fluid to remove oil and contaminants. This also form
a crystalized film of zinc phosphate similar to the dip
method.

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2. Basecoat Process:
The vehicle body is fully immersed (dipped) and
electrodeposition (ED) coating is applied. Primer or paint
coats the entire part without missing any areas, which
improves anti-corrosion durability. ED coating uses epoxy
group resin paint.

3. Sealing Process:
Seals fitted parts of the body after welding and in joint
areas such as hemmed parts like doors force-fed sealer
gun. Body sealer helps prevent dust and water entry and
also improves corrosion resistance.

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4. Undercoating Process:
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is applied to the lower body,
including the front and rear wheel houses. Helps prevent
paint and body damage from rock chips and other causes.
Also contributes to sound, heat, and vibration control.

5. Hard Chip Guard Coating Process:

Chip guard primer is applied to side sill surface. It helps
prevent paint film damage to side sill caused by rock chips,
etc.

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6. Soft Chip Guard Coating Process (only for high corrosion
areas):
Soft chip guard primer is applied to the edges of hood, roof
and doors etc. It helps preventing paint film damage and
rust cause by rock chips.

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7. Intermediate Coating Process:

Maintains paint film thickness and improves clarity and
corrosion resistance of the total body paint film, including
the topcoats. Bell type coating conveyor lines maintain film
thickness consistency.

8. Intermediate Coat Sanding Process:

Intermediate coating paint film is sanded in order to

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improve the smoothness of the film surface and adhesion of
the topcoats.

9. Topcoating Process:
Enamel paint is applied to inside and outside of body using
robotic painting equipment. For metallic and pearl paint, a
clearcoat is applied after the enamel paint. A high quality
baked acrylic type paint or waterborne paint is used to
improve corrosion resistance and appearance.

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10. Paint Inspection Process:

Paint quality is inspected to judge OK/NG based on the
inspection criteria. Coating condition, film thickness, film
hardness, adhesion, etc. are thoroughly checked by visual
and mechanical means.

11. Two-Tone Paint Process (Special Paint):

(Example) Two-tone paint may be applied after topcoating
depending on specifications.

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12. Internal Rust Proofing Process:
A special zinc-based rust proof paint or wax is applied to
the critical areas that requires rustproofing treatment using
spray guns in order to further enhance anti-corrosion
performance.

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13. Complete Build Unit Rust Proof Process:

Inside and outside rustproofing. The wax coating is even
applied inside the tail gate, doors, and to the underbody for
anti-corrosion performance enhancement.

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Factory Paint Finish Information - Paint Film Structure

1. Paint Film Structure

Paint Film for General Mass Production Vehicles Many different paints are used on vehicles. They are chosen
based on the requirements of each part such as:
Rust prevention
Sound insulation
Anti-chipping
Cosmetic appearance
Adhesion promote

The next two pages show the different coating layers

commonly used on new vehicle bodies.

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(1) Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coating Topcoat: Thermoset aluminum alkyd resin paint

Intermediate Coating: Polyester resin paint

Rock Chip Protection: Chipping guard primer

Basecoat: Polybutadiene resin paint, epoxy resin paint (primer)

Steel Plate

(2) Body Inner Plate Inner Plate Color Layer: Thermoset aluminum alkyd resin paint

Basecoat: Polybutadiene resin paint, epoxy resin paint

Steel Plate

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(3) Body Outer Plate Topcoat: Thermoset aluminum alkyd resin paint, thermoset
acrylic resin paint

Intermediate Coating: Polyester resin paint

Basecoat: Polybutadiene resin paint, epoxy resin paint

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Steel Plate

(4) ABS Resin Part Topcoat: acrylic lacquer resin paint, two-liquid urethane resin
paint

ABS Resin

(5) Under Floor, Wheel House Insulation Coating: Undercoat (bituminous paint for insulation)

Basecoat: Polybutadiene resin paint, epoxy resin paint

Steel Plate

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(6) Aluminum Wheel Topcoat: Thermoset aluminum alkyd resin paint, thermoset
acrylic resin pain

Basecoat: Epoxy resin paint

Aluminum

(7) PP Resin Part Topcoat: One-pack urethane resin paint

Basecoat: Acrylic resin paint (PP exclusive primer)

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PP Resin

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Final Inspection

Final inspection of collision repairs using the four perspectives below is required for customer satisfaction:
Appearance restoration

－ Exterior finish

Safety assurance

－ Driving performance

Maintaining strength

－ Delding, interfacing

Durability and anti-rust quality assurance

－ Rust, corrosion

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External appearance inspection:

Paint finish
－
Inspect for contaminants, paint runs, sanding scratches, unevenness on filled surfaces, color match, etc.
Fit and finish inspection
－
Inspect for gaps, steps, off-set and operation performance of hood, fender, doors, bumpers, lights, etc.
Assembly damage inspection
－
Inspect for scratches and contamination on the painted surfaces.
Assembly defect inspection
－
Inspect for soft set electrical connectors, wiring errors, missing screws, paint peeling due to bolt installation, etc.
Paint and overspray inspection
－
Inspect for excessive paint or paint overspray on body, components, or glass due to insufficient masking.
Inspect for contamination and odors
－
Inspect for remaining body filler, sanding dust, and other contaminants in engine compartment, wheels, tires,
underbody and chassis components, Passenger compartment and trunk spaces. Also inspect for remaining odors
from painting processes.

Safety inspection:

Wheel alignment
－
Check and adjust (camber, caster, toe, etc.). If non-adjustable alignment angles are out of specification, body or
suspension component damage may be present that was missed during the original repairs.
Brake related system
－
Inspect for fluid leakage and air mixing etc.
Lights
－
Check the operation of all exterior and interior lights and signals. Adjust the headlight aim if necessary, etc.
Fuel system
－
Inspect for fuel leakage.

Maintenance and assurance of strength

High quality welding done according to published procedures is absolutely necessary to maintain and assure body strength.
However it is difficult to thoroughly inspect welding quality only after welding work is complete. It is very important to also do
intermediate inspections during the repair process to assure welding quality in addition to the final welding quality
inspection.

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Inspection for anti-rust:

Under body
－
Check the application status of undercoating.
Mating of panels
－
Check the application area and status of body sealer.
Water intrusion (rain intrusion test)
－
Check for water leaks where panels or other parts mate (glass, taillight etc.), weatherstrips on doors, etc.

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Anti-Rust Steel Sheets

1. Anti-Rust Steel Sheets

In order to increase corrosion resistance, some steel sheets

are electro-plated with zinc, tin or aluminum on their surfaces.
Zinc-plated steel sheets have the highest corrosion resistance,
this type is the most widely used for automotive component
parts requiring this protection. Some of the well-known
zinc-plated steel sheets are an electro-zinc plated steel sheet,
molten zinc plated steel sheet, and alloyed molten zinc plated
steel sheet.

Electro Zinc Plated Steel Sheet:

Corrosion resistant steel sheet with high purity zinc deposited

on the sheet surface through electric plating process. Though
its zinc-plated thickness is thinner than that of the molten

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plated steel sheet, the surface condition is even. Therefore it is
superior in workability, welding and painting processes. But, it
is inferior to the molten zinc plated steel sheet in corrosion
protection as it cannot be thick-plated.

Molten Zinc Plated Steel Sheet (Dipping

Method):

Corrosion resistant steel sheet is covered with molten zinc

plating by immersing it. Although it is superior in corrosion
protection performance as the plating layer is thick, is inferior
to the electro-zinc plated steel sheet in welding and painting.

Alloyed Molten Zinc Plated Steel Sheet:

In order to compensate for imperfections of electro-zinc plated

and molten zinc plated steel sheets, alloys of iron and zinc or
nickel and zinc are plated on the surface to improve ease of
welding and painting.

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Characteristics of Steel Sheets

Characteristics of Steel Sheets

Steel sheets are of two types; hot rolled or cold rolled:

Hot rolled steel sheet is rolled above re-crystallization temperature (normally 1,472-1,652 °F (800-900 °C)).
Cold rolling occurs with the metal below its recrystallization temperature (usually at room temperature).

In automotive body components, hot rolled steel sheets are used for frames and other parts of vehicles that carry heavy loads
such as trucks. Cold rolled steel sheets are mostly used for unibodies of passenger vehicles. Because corrosion resistance is
required for such parts as outer panels, side frames and wheelhouses, zinc plated cold rolled steel sheets are widely used:
Sheet thickness
During the hot rolling process, slabs must be rolled while they are still hot. As they are cooled while being rolled, they
cannot be rolled thin flat. Cold rolled steel sheets can be rolled at normal temperature, making it possible to manufacture
thin steel sheets.
Sheet surface
As hot rolled steel sheets are rolled at a high temperature, black oxidation, or mill scale, appears on the sheet’s surface.

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Sheets that have been washed with oxide (pickling washer) have gray surfaces. The surface of a cold rolling steel sheet is
smooth and glossy, often called polished sheet. It is subjected to the picking process, cold rolling, annealing, and temper
rolling process after the hot rolling process.
Workability
Most of the body component parts are press formed. The workability on presswork is determined by technical specifications
of materials. Those technical specifications are, in turn, determined by material contents as well as the extent of temper
rolling.
When the workability compared in terms of elongation rate obtained by an elongation test, hot rolled steel has about 35%
while a cold rolled steel has about 43%, indicating that a cold rolled steel sheet has better workability.

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - High-Strength Steel Sheets (others)

Other High-Strength Steel Sheets

Bake Hardened (BH) Steel Sheet:

BH steel is originally soft, but increases its strength through the baking process after being work-hardened by the
－
stamping process.

Cold Stamping:

It is a stamping process to press form one of the high-strength steel types called high-tensile steel under a normal
－
temperature. The steel sheets used for this process contains a small amount of precious metal to increase the
strength by several times higher than the normal steel sheets. It is difficult to form the steel to the requirements
through this process, but it is possible to produce light parts similar to hot stamping.

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - High-Strength Steel Sheets

1. High-Strength Steel Sheets

High-strength steelhas higher tensile strength than normal, or “mild” steel. Generally, high strength steel is defined as steel with a
340MPa or higher tensile strength. However, this definition may vary depending on vehicle manufacturer, suppliers, and
countries. Steel with a tensile strength of 980 MPa and higher is called “Ultra High-Strength Steel” to differentiate it during repairs
because the repair methods are restricted.
In addition, there are several types of high-strength steel sheets available. Solid solution strengthened and precipitation
strengthened steel adding elements such as nickel (Ni), silicone (Si) manganese (Mn) etc to increase strength. Composite
structure strengthened steel is hardened after press forming.

Type Strengthening Mechanism

Solid Solution Strengthened The very basic method. To form a solid solution of the alloy elements to crystal lattice.
There are two type of solution; one is called substitutional solid solution which forms
solid solution by replacing with iron atoms such as silicone (Si), manganese (Mn) and
phosphorus (P), another one is called interstitial solid solution which forms solid
solution by intruding such as carbon and nitrogen.
Precipitation Strengthened To interrupt the rearrangement by precipitate through precipitation of carbide or nitride

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such as titan (Ti) or niobium (Nb).
To change the internal composition through heat treatment (strengthened by
Strengthened

DP Steel
Composite

martensite with a high hardness obtained by quickly cooled down austenite generated
Structure

(Dual Phase)
in heated steel at a high temperature).
TRIP Steel To change the internal composition through heat treatment (strengthened by bainite or
(Transformation residual austenite obtained by quickly cooled down austenite generated in heated steel
Induced Plasticity) at a high temperature).

Characteristics:

High tensile strength

High yield point (the point where material changes from elastic to plastic)
High yield rate (yield point/tensile strength)

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Steel Material

1. Steel Material

The carbon steel sheets used for most of the automobile body account for about 50% of the total weight of a general passenger
vehicle. The main reasons steel sheet is used are: availability, ease of manufacturing, and low cost. The ability to alloy steel with
other elements allows adjustments to material strength, hardness, and toughness.
The carbon content in the steel greatly impacts its characteristics greatly, with some categories based on the carbon content
volume alone.

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Pure iron contains almost no other elements other than iron (Fe) and is very soft, thus its use is very limited. One of the few
examples of automotive uses is for electromagnets. Cast iron cannot be wrought, so it is mainly used for cast parts.
Steel can be categorized into carbon steel and alloy steel (special steel). It can also be categorized by purpose of use its shape
(stick, plate, pipe, etc.).

Carbon Steel

Most of the steel panels used for automotive bodies are made of carbon steel (alloy of iron and carbon) based on the design
requirements of formability, durability, and endurance.
Carbon steel is an alloy with the main composition of iron (Fe) and 0.035 to 1.7% of carbon (C), and small amount of silicon (Si),
manganese (Mn), phosphorus (P) and sulfur (S). Among those compositions, carbon has the most significant impact on the
steel’s characteristics.
In case of using high-carbon steel which contains a high amount of carbon, the body panels will have a very strong impact
resistance but a poor formability and welding capability. Because of this, low-carbon steel is mainly used for body panels. It
generally contains a lower amount of carbon (0.1 to 0.4% or less).

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Tailored Blank Material

1. Tailored Blank Material

Tailored blank materials are multiple stamped steel sheets

jointed together by welding to meet different requirements
and purposes.
The original purpose of the tailored blanks was to make use
of mill ends or various types of steel sheets combined
together, increasing yield and reducing cost by welding
before stamping. Today tailored blanks are being
increasingly used for automobile body parts to reduce
weight and enhance rigidity in certain areas of some parts.
By welding tailored blank materials with different thickness
and material features together, it becomes possible to
optimize the parts to their use. Strong or thick materials can
be used for where rigidity is required, while using thinner
materials for other areas. It is now possible to layout parts
with optimal characteristics exactly where needed.

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Types of Tailored Blank Welding

There are three types of tailored blank (TB) welding; laser, mushroom and plasma method. Details are as follows.
TB Laser Welding:

A method of welding by concentrating a laser beam onto approximately a 0.5 mm (0.020 in) diameter spot to melt and
－
join the two surfaces.
The steel’s appearance, quality, and material characteristics are only slightly changed by the laser’s heat.
The width of the laser welding bead is less than 1 mm. Laser welded tailored blanks are most commonly used for
automobile parts.

TB Mushroom Welding:

A method of welding where two layers of steel panels are overlaid and pressure is applied to while the parts are
－
eclectically welded. Mushroom welding is superb in formability but poor in appearance.
The width of the welding bead is roughly 5 mm (0.20 in).

TB Plasma Welding:

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A method of welding where a high temperature plasma current is applied to the butted area joining the parts using
－
thermal conduction.
It is suitable for automated processes with a low equipment cost.
The width of the welding bead is 3-4 mm (0.12-0.16 in).

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Ultra High-Strength Steel Sheets (1500 MPa Grade)

1. Ultra High-Strength Steel Sheets (1500 MPa Grade)

Ultra High-Strength Steel Sheets 1500MPa grade (hot stamping):

Stamping takes place when the steel sheet is heated to 1,652 °F (900 °C) and softened. By cooling the steel part down to a
normal temperature while still in the stamping die, the hardening process will be improved and a 1500 MPa grade tensile
strength is achieved. This process is called hot stamping.
When compared to normal steel stamping processes, hot stamping is capable of producing parts with significantly higher
strength. Therefore, the parts produced through this process can offer the same strength level with thinner material in
comparison with parts made using normal stamping process. This contributes to vehicle weight reduction and improved fuel
efficiency.

Hot Stamping Process Overview (standard method)

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Fundamentals of Automotive Steel Sheets - Use of Tailored Blank Material

1. Use of Tailored Blank Material

Laser welded tailored blank materials are used for the front
side frames, dashboard lower, and door inner panels.

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Front Side Frame (including back plate)

Butting of high-strength steel sheets with different thickness

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Dashboard Lower

Butting of high-strength and mild steel sheets with different

thickness

Door Inner Panel

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Butting of mild steel sheets with different thickness

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Basic Body Structure

1. Basic Body Structure

An automobile body consists of many different component parts, each of which is stamped from a thin steel. Most parts are
united into a complete unitized body using electric resistance spot welding. In this fashion, a unitized body, or “unibody”, structure
has no independent frame. Stamped parts are assembled as part of the body. Components such as an engine, suspension, and
steering system are directly installed to the body structure. Unibody construction is the most common vehicle construction
method in the automotive industry.
A unibody is structured by a wide variety of stamped steel parts in different shapes and dimensions, joined by welding into one
complete body. In order to meet all of the requirements of the body as a whole, each of those parts share the responsibility of
meeting the necessary criteria on strength and rigidity as well as weight reduction, accuracy, durability performance etc.
In addition, to protect the passengers in case of collision, the body structure must allow a certain amount of deformation if a front
or rear crash impact occurs. By effectively absorbing the impact energy through “crush zones” in the body structure, a “survival
space” is maintained in the passenger compartment. Effects of the impact on the vehicle’s passengers are also mitigated.
The image below shows typical body crush zones. The passenger compartment is reinforced by structural members to dissipate
front and rear impacts. The side frame is similar in strength to the front and rear body, receives impact forces. This will cause
ripple effects and secondary damage, but the side frame is designed to minimize deformation in the passenger compartment
area.

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Floor Is the Core of a Unibody Structure
The floor is the core part of unibody construction. The floor gets formed by a deep-draw. The floor’s strength comes from the
drawn floor tunnel and reinforcements installed in lateral, horizontal and angled directions.
The strength (rigidity) of this floor panel is further increased by joining the front side frame, side sills and crossmembers
through spot welding.
Passenger Compartment (Cabin) Structure
The passenger compartment is very important because it protects the passengers. On more recent models, passenger
compartment has been made much stronger to provide better crash protection in a much wider range of impacts. Passenger
compartment strength is attained by the combined strength of its individual parts, such as: the floor panel, front pillars, center
pillar, rear pillars, dash board, rear body, roof side rails and roof panel. The cabin is capable of withstanding a certain level of
impact.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Collision Angle and Damage

1. Collision Angle and Damage

Collisions can be categorized into two types depending on

direction of impact. One is the centripetal-force, or a collision
toward the vehicle’s center of gravity. The other is a
tangential-force collision directed off the center of gravity. They
result in different degrees of damage.

Centripetal Collision

Causes serious damage because the horizontal movement of

the vehicle is constrained during the collision.

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Tangential Collision

Causes relatively light damage because the vehicles move

when impacted and each absorbs some of the energy.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Collision Target and Damage

1. Collision Target and Damage

Even if the car weight and speed are the same between the
two cases at the time of a crash, the degree of the damage will
be significantly different depending upon the object that the car
crashes into.

When the impact area is wider, such as a wall, the impact

force per unit area is smaller. Therefore, the degree of
deformation is smaller and the area of damage is larger.

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When the impact area is smaller, such as an electric pole,
the impact force per unit area on the car is greater.
Therefore, the degree of deformation is also greater.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Direction of Impact

1. Direction of Impact

The impact (outer force) consists of three variables:

Input point
Angle
Magnitude

When impact (input) is applied to a vehicle, the force is divided

into two or more directions. The divided forces become a
dispersed impact onto the body. Here is an example:
When the specified force ‘‘F1-O’’ (magnitude) is applied at
input point ‘‘O’’ (input point) with angle “α” (direction), F1-O for
an actual vehicle is divided into the horizontal forces, F2 and
F3 and the vertical force F4.
－ F2: Pushes the wheelhouse member towards the rear side
－ F3: Pushes the bulkhead upper frame to the center

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－ F4: Pushes the bulkhead downward

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Examples of Compatible Body

1. Examples of Compatible Body

A Large Size Sedan:

The bulkhead upper frame absorbs the upper impact

energy.
The wheelhouse member and member support increase
contact with the energy absorption structure of other
vehicles.
The front side frame efficiently absorbs impact energy.
The remaining energy is dissipated into the floor frame.

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A Small Hatchback:

The gusset at the end of front side frame, wheelhouse

lower member and bulk head lower cross member increase
contact with the energy absorption structure of other
vehicles.
The front side frame efficiently absorbs impact energy.
The remaining energy is dissipated into the floor frame.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Honda/Acura Collision Safety Technology (G-CON)

1. Honda/Acura Collision Safety Technology (G-CON)

Managing both collision absorption and

securing maximum cabin survival space at a
high level

When considering collision safety during automobile body

design, the coexistence of “energy absorption” and “securing
maximum cabin survival space” are the keys to improving body
safety. Although those two concepts contradict each other,
balancing them is essential to mitigation of passenger injuries.
Honda and Acura have developed a technology, called G-CON
(Gravity Control). In a full-lap collision, G-CON maximizes
“survival space”. In an offset collision, it maximizes “energy
absorption”. G-CON technique has been incorporated into the
new collision resistant body for small size vehicles. This
reduces passenger compartment deformation and degree of

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injury to the driver and passengers in both collision types.

Achieving high performance by Honda / Acura

unique ideas

When cabin survival space is prioritized, the usual approach is

a highly rigid frame to minimize the degree of passenger
compartment deformation. However, in this also transfers more
impact force to the passengers, generally causing greater
injuries (Method A in the figure below).
When passenger safety is prioritized, the impact absorption
structure is designed with a comparably low-rigidity frame. This
reduces the injury rate, while increasing passenger
compartment deformation. (Method B in the figure below).
A new collision resistant frame designed by Honda and Acura
controls the G-forces applied to the body. This minimizes both
passenger compartment deformation and passenger injury
rate, balancing the two contradictory concepts at a high level.

Achieving the world’s highest collision safety

standard for small size vehicles

Traditionally, achieving ‘‘impact absorption’’ while ‘‘securing

maximum survival space’’ has been viewed as difficult for
small cars. While considering this proposition, Honda and
Acura found the solution with a new technique called
‘‘G-CON’’, which produced the world’s highest standard of
collision safety for small size vehicles.

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Wave-form for the frame and for the passengers

under the ‘‘G’’ force of a full-lap collision

When the same level of impact is applied, the total surface of

G-wave will be the same regardless of the approach/ passage.
To mitigate the G-force to passengers, it is critical to design the
body based on the optimal timing and wave dispersion path of
G-force.

Approach A - Prioritize passenger compartment

survival space

In order to secure passenger compartment survival space, the

frame is of rigid design. However, passengers would receive
high collision G-forces:
Highly rigid frame with small deformation.
Sufficient survival space is secured, but injury rate is high.

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Approach B - Prioritize reduction of passenger
injury rate

In order to reduce collision G-forces on passengers, frame

rigidity is reduced, and its deformation rate will increase.
Therefore, the frame size needs to be expanded:
Reduce injuries by reducing frame rigidity.
Larger frame size is required to secure survival space.

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New collision safety frame for small size

vehicles

By controlling G-forces to the frame, passenger G-forces are

reduced, while maintaining almost the same level of frame
deformation. Small size vehicles can secure a survival space
and mitigate the injury rate at the same time, by balancing the
cabin deformation rate and passenger injury rate at a high
level.

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G Control with 3 Stages: Crash, Bend and Withstand

The crash safety frame is a structure which controls impact G in three stages:

In the first stage, focus is placed on the timing difference between body G generation and passenger G generation.
Front Side
The body is designed so that a high body G is generated through compressed collapse of the front side frame’s front portion
(compressed collapse: a cylindrical can is collapsed in an axial direction like a bellows or an accordion). By doing so, the
passenger G generation timing will be accelerated. In the early stages of the crash where the passenger G is still in a lower
state, the passenger G is intentionally forced to occur so that most of it can be evenly absorbed.
In the second stage, the body G that was increased during the first stage is reduced when the narrow high-offset rear portion
of the front side frame deforms quickly. This constrains the increase in passenger G and makes it possible to reduce the peak
of the passenger G.
In the third stage, while controlling the passenger G constrained during the second stage, the rigid passenger compartment
absorbs impact energy while reducing body deformation as much as possible.

With these steps, the collision performance of body helps protect the passengers.

3 stage G control

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Honda/Acura Collision Safety Technology Compatible (ACE™) Body Features

1. Features of Collision Safety Technology Compatible Body

1. Increase contact with impact absorption structure of the

other vehicle.

The vehicle body is a multi-skeletal structure and is

designed with the wheelhouse member positioned outside
of front side frame, but joined with large gussets. This
mitigates impact with other vehicles in a crash by
increasing the area of contact with the other vehicle’s
impact absorption structure.

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2. Dissipation of impact load.

By receiving an impact on a wider surface area including

the:
Bulkhead upper frame
Wheelhouse member
Front side frame

The impact forces received are more efficiently dissipated

through the structure.

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3. Highly efficient absorption of energy.

The optimization of impact absorption parts significantly

reduces the load applied to the passenger compartment by
improving energy absorption efficiently of the engine
compartment.

2. Effectiveness of Crash-Compatibility Body

Effectiveness of Crash-Compatibility Body

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In case of a collision between a large-and-small-vehicle, the
impact absorption structure allows energy to dissipate in a
similar way between those two vehicles. Safety is improved for
both of the vehicles.

Crash of Crash-Compatibility Bodies:

Degree of Damage with a Large Vehicle

The frame member will be crushed by the impact through the

wheelhouse member and gusset in an offset impact. This
mechanism helps decrease the impact against a smaller
vehicle.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Honda/Acura Collision Safety Technology Compatible (ACE™) Body

1. Honda/Acura Collision Safety Technology Compatible (ACE™) Body

Compatibility Body

Through an advancement of the G Control technology, it became possible to improve safety in the impacted vehicle (“self-
protection performance”), while also protecting the impacting vehicle in a collision (“damage reduction to other vehicles”).

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Characteristics of Compatibility Body

The frame structure is modified from the traditional structure so that impact energy is received through a wider surface area and
energy is more easily dispersed.
For frontal collisions, impact forces will disperse and be absorbed through the bulk head, wheelhouse member and side frames.
The forces are then further transmitted to the front pillars, floor frame and side sills. The lower frame member prevents the off-set
positioning against the impact absorber of the counter vehicle, and receive the impact on a wide surface area along with the bulk
head and upper frame. This achieves significantly higher impact energy absorption performance. This approach not only reduces
the forces to the passenger compartment, improving one’s own protection safety, but also minimizes damage to the other vehicle
in a collision. By also increasing the section of the floor frame as well as making it straight, body rigidity can be further enhanced.
Passenger compartment deformation will be limited, increasing self-protection ability.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Honda/Acura Pedestrian Injury Mitigation Body

1. Honda/Acura Pedestrian Injury Mitigation Body

The hood, hood hinge, front fender, front bumper, wiper pivot
and or brackets are constructed to absorb impacts to minimize
pedestrian injuries in a car-to-pedestrian crash.

Clearance secured beneath bumper absorbs passenger

impact

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Collapsible hood hinges bend to absorb impact

Shaft movement at the base of the wiper pivots absorbs

impact

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Collapsible fender brackets absorb impact by allowing the

fenders to deform

Clearance secured beneath the windshield allows deformation

to absorb impact

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Clearance secured beneath the headlight absorbs impact by
the allowing this area to deform easily

Clearance secured beneath the hood absorbs impact by

allowing hood area to deform easily

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Pop-up hood hinges (some markets) absorb impact by lifting

up the rear side of the hood, providing extra deformation space

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Impact Absorption Structure

1. Impact Absorption Structure

The unibody has a crushable structure to absorb collision

impact energy through deformation of its body structure. The
front and rear compartments are constructed as impact
absorbing structures. The center body (passenger
compartment) has a rigid structure to disperse collision energy.

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Stress Concentration:

During impact, stress is concentrated where the part shape

and surface has been altered. For example, to bend a
metal plate, first open a hole at the bending position. When
the plate is bent, the stress is concentrated around the
hole, and the plate is easily bent there.
Unibodies have different size side frame sections, plus
stamped channels and holes applied to front wheelhouse
upper members. These help absorb impact energy by
concentrating stress at those locations.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Rahmen Structure

1. Rahmen Structure

Rahmen structure is a framework structure constructed by

the individual parts assembled together with rigid fixed
points (rigid joints). When the body takes external forces, it
resists them as one unit because the component members
are rigidly joined. A unibody is made up of a series of
connected rahmen structures.

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A unibody is a combination of a number of rahmen
structures that are assembled into one with spot welding
(rigid points) connecting their component parts. It is
designed and manufactured so that, when the body takes
forces such as load intruded by:

－ Starting, acceleration and braking

Impact from the road surface
－
－ Bending and twisting (body deformation) during
cornering
The unibody resists those external forces by
dispersing across the entire body structure.

The unibody ensures sufficient strength and rigidity by:

－ Carefully designed structural members such as frames

and crossmembers.

－ Thin sheet parts such as skins and panels and

reinforcement parts.

During unibody body repairs, it is important to fully

understand the characteristics of Rahmen structure. These
characteristics determine how far impact damage traveled
through the vehicle’s body. It is likely that damage may
even exist opposite the actual impact area.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Unibody Characteristics

Unibody Characteristics
Impact Absorption Efficiency and Safety
A unibody uses the stamped floor panel and other parts joined using spot welds to manage impact forces.
Reduced Weight and Improved Fuel Efficiency/Drivability
By stamping thin steel sheet and spot welding multiple panels, it is possible to reduce vehicle weight while strengthening
the structure. Consequently, engine displacement can be reduced resulting in improved fuel efficiency. In addition, brake
and chassis parts wear is reduced.
Manufacturing Efficiency
Unibodies are manufactured using automated systems such as welding robots, saving labor and resulting in significantly
higher production efficiency.
Freedom of Design
Recently it became possible to stamp a high quality steel sheet for body outer panels. Because of this, the steel sheets can
be bent and formed into a wide variety of shapes and combined together. Also, it enhances design freedom. For an
example, by shaping the floor panel in an optimal way by drawing (stamping), it is possible to lift the floor surface to provide
more legroom. This design provides maximum passenger compartment space even in smaller vehicles.

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Fundamentals of Unibody Construction - Unibody Parts Structure

1. Unibody Parts Structure

Each automobile part may be called by a different name depending on the supplier and/or auto manufacturer. Body parts are no
exception. Keep this in mind when ordering or installing parts. Refer to the specific parts list of each model for more details.

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General Welding Information - Automobile Body Welding

Most of the body is welded using spot welding during mass production in order to achieve maximum strength and efficiency.
Spot welding is also the preferred method for repairing body damage to ensure the same level of strength and durability as a
mass production body. However, spot welding cannot be applied in every instance due to the way the parts are assembled or
for other reasons, Use MAG (plug or butt welding) or MIG brazing (plug welding) as specified in the model specific body repair
manual instead.

Do not use gas welding during automobile body repair.

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General Welding Information - Joint Types

Vehicles are assembled by various joining methods categorized as follows:

Mechanical Joint:

Parts are joined by bolts, nuts, rivets, etc. It is necessary to machine the affected parts before for joining.

Chemical Joint:

Parts are glued together. It is usually unnecessary to machine the affected parts before joining.

Metallurgic Joint:

Surfaces to be joined are melted to join them together. Welding falls into this classification. Welding types include: pressure
welding, fusion welding, and soldering:

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Pressure Welding
This method melts parts together by electrical current and resistance without using filler material while pressure is applied
to the joint. Spot welding is a common example.
Fusion Welding
This method melts the parts together using a filler material such as welding wire or rod. MAG and MIG welding are common
examples.
Braze Welding
This method bonds two pieces of metal without melting them by using a filler material (brazing filler material) that has a
lower melting point than the materials being joined.

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Grinding & Sanding Tools - Putty Grinder/Sander

1. Putty Grinder/Sander

Dual-Action (DA) Sander:

Used for many types of sanding such as feathering,

scuffing, rough and intermediate body filler or putty sanding
etc.
Eccentric and rotatory motion achieves highly efficient
sanding, with a minimum of sanding scratches.

This sander spins a circular pad and the pad moves in a

circular direction simultaneously and sands a wide area.
Changing the orbit diameter size allows use in a wide
variety of sanding applications such as rough body filler
sanding and primer surfacer polishing.

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Orbital Action Sander:

Used for rough and intermediate sanding of surfaces with

body filler or putty.
Because it has a wide contact surface, distortion can easily
be removed.

This sander vibrates a rectangular pad along an oval path

when sanding a surface.
It can be used for a wide variety of applications from
removing putty distortion to primer surfacer polishing
depending on the size of orbit diameter.

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Straight Line Sander:

Used for rough polishing of filled or puttied surfaces.

Good for polishing work on wide surfaces.
This sander moves a rectangular pad in a straight line front
to back when sanding a surface.
Rather than sanding a large surface area, it is often used to
remove distortion on a body surface as a part of final
processes.

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Grinding & Sanding Tools - Steel Sheet Grinder/Sander

1. Steel Sheet Grinder/Sander

Angle (Disc-Type) Grinder:

Used for polishing after welding.

There are two types; air and electric powered.

Single Action Sander:

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Used to remove paint layers.

Belt Sander:

Used to peel off paint layers on welding areas.

Also may be used to remove spot welds, especially in areas
that cannot be accessed with a drill.
Can be used in tight spaces where a disc sander cannot
access.
Lightweight and compact, allows one-handed work.
Multiple belt widths available.

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How to Troubleshoot the Body Electrical

Tips and Precautions

Special Tools Required
Back Probe Adapter, 17 mm 07TAZ-001020A

Before Troubleshooting
1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box.

2. Check the 12 volt battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections.

Do not quick-charge a 12 volt battery unless the 12 volt battery ground cable has
been disconnected; otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes.
Do not attempt to crank the engine with the 12 volt battery ground cable loosely
connected, or you will severely damage the wiring.

Handling Connectors

Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals.
Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except waterproof
connectors).
All connectors have push-down release type locks (A).

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Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the
body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock.
Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and
remove the connector from its mount bracket (A).

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Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves
instead.
Always reinstall plastic covers.

Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals are in place and not bent (A).

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Check for loose retainers (A) and rubber seals (B).

The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If
the grease is contaminated, replace it.

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Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked.
Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down.

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Handling Wires and Harnesses

Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the
designated locations.
Remove clips carefully; do not damage their locks (A).

After installing harness clips, make sure the harness does not interfere with any moving
parts.
Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust components and other hot parts, from sharp edges
of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts.
Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B).

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Testing and Repairs

Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by
wrapping the break with electrical tape or shrink tubing.
Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage to the
SRS wiring or terminals, replace the harness.
After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them.
When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those
described in this manual.
If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connectors).

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Use back probe adapter, 17mm 07TAZ-001020A.

Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of
connector terminals.

Five-Step Troubleshooting

1. Verify The Complaint:

Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to verify the customer complaint. Note the
symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem
area.

2. Analyze The Schematic:

Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work
by tracing the current paths from the power feed through the circuit components to ground. If
several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or a ground is a likely cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit operation, identify one or more
possible causes of the problem.

3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit:

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Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical,
simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure
first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.

4. Fix The Problem:

Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.

5. Make Sure The Circuit Works:

Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on the fuse. Make
sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.

Wire Color Codes

The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:

WHT.............................................................................. White
YEL............................................................................... Yellow
BLK............................................................................... Black
BLU............................................................................... Blue
GRN.............................................................................. Green
RED.............................................................................. Red
ORN.............................................................................. Orange
PNK.............................................................................. Pink
BRN.............................................................................. Brown
GRY.............................................................................. Gray

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PUR.............................................................................. Purple
TAN............................................................................... Tan
LT BLU......................................................................... Light
Blue
LT GRN........................................................................ Light
Green
LT PUR........................................................................ Light
Purple

The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the
stripe.

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Troubleshoot the B-CAN Circuit Related Problems

Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first.

How to Check for DTCs with the HDS (preferred method)

The HDS can check F-CAN and B-CAN communication status, read and clear DTCs, display data
list, and perform function tests.

Check for DTCs

1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.

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2. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle.

NOTE: If the HDS does not communicate with the vehicle, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.

4. Select BODY ELECTRICAL, then select the desired MODE MENU, and check for DTCs. If the
DTCs do not pertain to the select menu, select the ALL DTC Check icon to view all Body
Electrical DTCs.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the HDS user's manual.

5. If any DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTCs troubleshooting.

NOTE: If DTC U1280 is stored, troubleshoot DTC U1280 first.

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How to Clear DTCs with the HDS

1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.

2. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

3. Clear the DTCs with the HDS.

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4. Turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode, and disconnect the HDS from the DLC.

B-CAN Circuit Troubleshooting Information

1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).

2. From the BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SELECT menu, select B-CAN CONTROL UNITS
INFORMATION, and then select CHECK CONNECTED CONTROL UNITS.

3. Check that the electronic control units (ECU) are communicating with the HDS.
NOTE:
If an ECU is communicating with the HDS, "DETECT" will be displayed.
If an ECU is not communicating, or the vehicle is not equipped with that ECU, "NOT
AVAILABLE" will be displayed.

4. If a control unit is not communicating, confirm which ECUs are communicating, then refer to
the B-CAN Communication Line from the Electrical Wiring Diagrams to find the malfunction
point.
For example, when unit "K" is communicating, but units "G", "M", and "N" are not
communicating, that will direct you to the malfunction point (A).

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Loss of Communication DTC Cross-Reference Chart

When an ECU on the CAN circuit is unable to communicate with other ECUs on the CAN circuit,
the other control units will set loss of communication DTCs. Use this chart to find the ECU that is
not communicating with the other ECUs on the CAN circuit.

1. Find the Transmitting Control Unit that is in the same row as all of the loss of communication
DTCs that you retrieved.

2. Do the input test for the transmitting control unit.

BUS OFF and Internal Error Codes
DTC Type Related Unit
Body Gauge Climate Front Seat Power Keyless Power Backup Automatic Automatic Immobilizer- Wireless
Control Control Control Unit Heater Window Access Control Unit Control Unit Lighting/ Lighting Keyless Charger
Module Module Control Unit Master Control Unit Rain Control Control Unit

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Switch Sensor Unit-Sensor
BUS OFF U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280 U1280
ECU B1002 B1602 B2352
(EEPROM)
Error

Loss of Communication
Transmitting Receiving Unit/Loss of Communication DTC
Control Unit Body Gauge Climate Front Seat Power Keyless Power Backup Automatic Automatic Immobilizer- Wireless
Control Control Control Unit Heater Window Access Control Unit Control Unit Lighting/ Lighting Keyless Charger
Module Module Control Unit Master Control Unit Rain Control Control Unit
Switch Sensor Unit-Sensor
Body Control TX U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281 U1281
Module
Gauge Control U128D TX U128D U128D U128D U128D U128D U128D U128D U128D U128D
Module
Climate TX U1064 U1299
Control Unit
Front Seat U1290 TX
Heater Control
Unit
PCM U0100 U0100
Multipurpose U129C
Camera Unit
TCM U0101
VSA U0122 U0122
Modulator- U0128
Control Unit

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Keyless U0127 TX U1286

Access Control
Unit
EPS Control U0131
Unit
SRS Unit U0151
Audio- U128E
Navigation Unit
Adaptive U0132
Damper
Control Unit

TX: Transmitting units do not set loss of communication DTCs.

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Installation Tools Tools - Parts Positioning & Holding Tools

1. Parts Positioning & Holding Tools

Vise-Grip Pliers:

Used to temporary hold parts during welding.

Jaw opening and clamping force adjustments can be easily
made.

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90 Degrees Vise Grip Pliers:

Used to temporary hold parts during welding.

Jaw opening and clamping force adjustments can be easily
made.
90 degree jaw angle allows fit of doors and trunk lid to be
confirmed.

Screw Clamp:

Used to assemble panels and hold parts during welding.

Screw opening dimensions and clamping force adjustments
can be easily made.
Less likely to scratch or mark panels than vise-grip pliers.

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MAG Welding - Butt Welding

1. Butt Welding

1. Tack welding:

To prevent distortion and ensure precision of joints,

make several tack welds along the area to be butt
welded.
The thinner the panel, the smaller the pitch of the tack
weld.

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2. Main welding:

Tilt the torch 10 to 15 degrees and use the push

(forward) welding method to weld along the mating line.
To prevent an unsteady hand while welding, place
yourself in a comfortable and supported position to help
maintain the correct tip-to- work clearance and torch
angle.
Move the torch at a steady speed while confirming
adequate weld penetration.
When welding thin panels, such as an outer panel, use
a skip or stitch welding technique, by moving the torch
to different areas of the butt weld. This will help avoid
overheating the panels, which can cause warpage or
burn through.

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3. Butt Weld Visual Inspection

Penetration
Examples of typical faults:
Lack of penetration resulting in insufficient strength
Weld may fail or cracks when it is being ground
smooth.
Arc length too long.
Sufficient penetration, but bead is too high requiring
excessive grinding to finish.

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MAG Welding - MAG Welding Conditions for High-Strength Steel (Except 1500 MPa) Parts

1. MAG Welding Conditions for High-Strength Steel (Except 1500 MPa) Parts

If a high-strength steel part (340MPa or higher) is MAG welded, the welding wire used must have a tensile strength equal to, or
greater than, the lowest tensile strength of the parts being welded. The wire below, or equivalent, may be used for 980 MPa or
less (except butt welding for 980 MPa, which is prohibited) high-strength steel welding.

Welding Wire (Example)

Must use 0.8 mm (0.031 in) diameter wire with a tensile strength of 980 MPa or higher (142 ksi or higher) .

Tensile strength of steel plate and welding method

Tensile Welding Method
Strength MAG Weld
(MPa)
Plug Butt
340 ○ ○

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440 ○ ○
590 ○ ○
780 ○ ○
980 ○ ×
1180 ○* ×
1500 ○* ×
*: MAG plug welding is only allowed on these steel grades in selected
locations as specified in the body repair manual. Welding instructions
must be followed exactly as specified to ensure adequate weld strength.

Be sure to check the product specifications issued by the manufacturers for details on welding wire.

Plug Weld:

Drill plug holes according to the sheet thickness referring to the table shown at left.
To determine the thickness of the parts being welded, refer to the “Body Construction” pages in the “General
Information”section of the model specific body repair manual.

Plug hole diameter (reference)

Thickness Less than 1.0-1.5 1.6-2.3
mm (in) 1.0 (0.039) (0.039-0.059) (0.063-0.091)
Hole 6.0 (0.24) 8.0 (0.31) 10 (0.39)
diameter
Φ mm (in)

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Plug Welding:

Start welding 1.0 mm (0.039 in) from the outer

circumference of the edge of the plug hole.
Weld upper and lower plates completely around the edge of
the hole.
Perform a trial weld to confirm welded finish using test
parts. Then perform the actual welding.

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Butt Welding:

Perform a trial weld using the same welding conditions as

the actual welding you will be doing. Confirm that the bead
protrudes from the back side of the weld.
To ensure adequate weld strength, grind the test weld flat
and then perform the welding so that the bead will protrude
from the back side of the weld.

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MAG Welding - Plug Welding

1. Plug Welding

1. Plug hole drilling:

Drill holes for plug welding in the upper work panel.

To ensure adequate weld strength, the proper hole
diameter must be chosen based upon the metal
thickness.
Use 0.8 mm (0.031 in) MAG welding wire equal to or
greater than lowest tensile strength of the parts being
welded to ensure adequate weld strength.
Plug hole diameter (reference)
Thickness Less than 1.0-1.5 1.6-2.3
mm (in) 1.0 (0.039) (0.039-0.059) (0.063-0.091)
Hole 6.0 (0.24) 8.0 (0.31) 10 (0.39)
diameter
Φ mm (in)

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2. Clamping weld location:

Use vise grip type pliers to tightly clamp the upper and
lower panels together.
Use a hammer to correct any deformation and ensure a
tight fit between the panels.

3. Making the plug weld:

Hold the torch firmly at a right angle to the plug welding

hole.
Move the torch in a circular motion along the hole inner
diameter to weld it closed.
Check penetration depth and ensure adequate
penetration of the bottom panel.

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4. Plug weld inspection

If the ripples (round marks) appear on the bottom panel due

to the welding heat, weld penetration is sufficient.

2. Bead Shape

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Bead shape
Example of typical faults:
Lack of penetration resulting in insufficient strength.
Insufficient welding current.

Though penetration is sufficient, if the beads protrudes from

the panel too far, it will take longer to grind smooth.

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<Good Example>
A moderate bead height

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MAG Welding - Principles and Characteristics

1. Principles and Characteristics

MAG welding is a gas metal arc welding (GMAW) method where an electric arc forms between the consumable welding wire and
the work piece, which heats and melts the wire and work piece, welding them together. The welding wire is automatically fed at a
constant sped, based on the welder settings.
During welding, shielding gas is supplied from a gas cylinder protect the welding area from atmospheric gases such as nitrogen
and oxygen. These gases can cause fusion defects, porosity, and weld metal embrittlement if they come in contact with the
electrode, the arc, or the welding metal.
In carbon-dioxide gas-arc welding, a unique, melt-drop-transfer process know as the ‘‘short circuit method’’ is used.
When welding thin panels, problems such as distortion and burn through tend to occur. To prevent such problems, it is necessary
to reduce the heat input. The short-circuit method illustrated below keeps the depth of penetration lower for optimum welding of
thin panels.

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Transfer of molten droplets in short-circuit welding:

The end of the welding wire melts due to heat from the arc. This makes a molten droplet that contacts the work piece, creating a
short circuit, which briefly extinguishes the arc. As the short circuit occurs, high current passes until surface tension of the weld
pool pulls the molten metal bead off electrode tip. The Arc then restarts again and the process repeats itself about 100 times per
second.

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Characteristics of MAG Welding:

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The risk of distortion and burn through is reduced, allowing
thin plates to be welded.
Simple to learn. Weld quality is not dependent upon the
welder’s skill level.
Low molten metal temperature, little fluidity, all position
welding is possible with high workability.
Very little formation of welding slag, so there is no need to
remove it.
Because shielding gas must remain around welding area, it
is unsuitable for welding outdoors or where a strong breeze
exists.
NOTE:

－ MAG welding
Metal Active Gas welding where the shielding gas
used is pure carbon dioxide (CO2), or contains a
mixture carbon dioxide (CO2) and other gases. It is
considered active because the CO2 undergoes a
limited reaction with the molten weld pool. MAG
welding reaches a temperature of approximately 2732
°F (1500 °C).

－ MIG welding
Metal Inert Gas welding where an inert shielding gas
such as 100% argon (Ar) is used. Because argon is
inert, it does not react with the molten weld pool.
MIG Brazing
－
A metal jointing method that bonds the work pieces
together using a filler material at a much lower
temperature than MAG welding, approximately 1742
°F (950 °C). The base metal remains below a
temperature that would weaken UHSS such as 1,500
MPa steel. A pulsed MIG welder, Silicon bronze wire
(CuSi-A or CuSi3), and inert 100% Argon (Ar)
shielding gas must be used.

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MAG Welding - Starting the Arc

1. Starting the Arc

1. Thoroughly remove paint or other contaminants from the

area to be welded.

2. Check the length of the wire projecting from the contact tip
(stick out). If the stick out is too long, or the wire’s tip is
round, the arc will not start smoothly. Adjust the wire length
by cutting it with a pair of side (diagonal) cutters.

NOTE: When cutting wire, keep the torch facing down and
away from your face to avoid being struck by the clipped
end.

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3. Start the arc.
As you pull the trigger (torch switch), shielding gas and
welding wire will be fed out. Touch the work piece with the
tip of the wire to start arc. By keeping a narrower tip-to-work
clearance, the arc will start easier.

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MAG Welding - Welding Equipment Structure

1. Welding Equipment Structure

MAG welding equipment consists of the torch, wire feeder,

shielding gas supply, control unit and the welding power
supply. The wire feeder and welding power supply are
integrated in most modern welders.

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Torch:

Provides a stream of shielding gas to the weld area.

Allows current to flow through the wire and generate an
electric arc:

－ Attached on the end of the torch is a nozzle that

guides the shielding gas to the welding area, and the
contact tip, which transmits current to the welding wire.
A multipurpose cable connect the torch to the welder.
－
Inside is an electrical cable that carries the welding
current to the contact tip, a flexible conduit liner to
allow the welding wire to feed smoothly, and a
passage that carries the shielding gas.

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Wire Feeder and Wire:

The wire feeder is the device that sends the wire, which
acts like a welding rod, to the torch. It consists of the feed
motor, reduction gear, feed roller, and press roller.
The spinning of the motor is transmitted to the feed roller
via the reduction gear. The wire is then sent to the torch by
pinching it between the press roller and the feed roller. The
wire is provided at a desired speed based on the welder
settings.
The wire is a long, single string of steel rod. The welding
wire must have a tensile strength equal to, or greater than
the lowest tensile strength of the parts being welded.
The wire is coated with thin copper plating to prevent
corrosion and to improve conductivity with the contact tip.

Shielding Gas Supply:

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The shielding gas supply is a device that directs the shield gas
from the gas cylinder to the torch. It consists of the regulator,
which reduces the high pressure in the gas cylinder to the
required low pressure for welding. It also allows a flow rate
adjustment and has a solenoid valve starts and stop the
shielding gas flow as the welder operates.

Control Unit:

The control unit receives signals from the torch switch and
then:

－ Switches the welding power supply on and off

－ Regulates welding wire feed

－ Controls the shielding gas supply

The most important roles are wire feed regulation and

speed control in proportion with current and voltage to
maintain as constant an arc length as possible. A large
number of semi-conductors are used in the power unit’s
electrical circuits.

Power Unit:

The power unit provides the electrical energy to generate an

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arc. It converts energy from the power supply to the desired

voltage level for welding using a transformer and rectifier.

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MAG Welding - Welding Precautions

1. Precautions

Welding Current:

Welding current affects the depth of penetration and the melting speed of the wire. It also affects arc stability and the amount of
weld spatter. As welding current increases, penetration increases along with the welding bead height and width.

Reference: Wire diameter and welding current

Wire Diameter mm (in) Current (A)
0.6 (0.024) 40 to 90
0.8 (0.031) 50 to 120
1.0 (0.039) 60 to 150
Reference: Work piece thickness and current
Thickness mm (in) Wire Diameter mm (in) Current (A)
0.8 (0.031) 0.8 (0.031) 60 to 70

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1.0 (0.039) 0.8 (0.031) 60 to 70
1.2 (0.047) 0.8 (0.031) 70 to 75
1.6 (0.063) 0.8 (0.031) 80 to 85

Arc Voltage:

To ensure high weld quality, the correct arc length is

required. Arc length depends on the arc voltage. Any
change results in a large change in heat input and current.
As voltage increases, arc length also increases, causing
the weld beads to become shallow and wide. Conversely,
when the arc voltage decreases, weld beads become deep
and high. If the voltage is excessively high voltage reduces
the short circuit’s frequency, resulting in a poor weld quality.
Excessively low voltage causes the wire to contact the work
piece, causing the arc instability.

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Contact Tip-to-Work Piece Clearance (aka Stick

Out):

If the clearance between the contact tip and work piece is

excessive, the welding wire overheats and melts too quickly
due to the excessive length of the protruding wire. Welding
current and penetration decrease.
If the clearance between the contact tip and work piece is
too large or small, the effects of the shielding gas are
deteriorated, which wastes gas and negatively affects weld
quality. The standard clearance is 8-15 mm (0.3-0.6 in).

Torch Angle and Direction of Welding:

There are two directions in welding; forward and reverse.

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These are more commonly known as push or forehand, and
pull, drag, or backhand technique.
The push or forward welding technique usually produces
lower penetration and a wider, flatter bead because the arc
force is directed away from the weld puddle.
The pull or reverse welding technique points the torch back
toward the weld puddle and it is dragged away from the
deposited metal. Pulling typically produces deeper
penetration and a higher, narrower bead with more buildup.
With either technique, the torch should be held at an angle
of 10 to 30 degrees.

Shielding Gas Volume:

A larger quantity of shielding gas doesn’t always ensure

good shielding effects. Excessive gas flow prevents the gas
from remaining around the weld, reducing its shielding
effects.
The gas supply must be regulated depending on the
nozzle-to-work clearance, welding current, welding speed
and welding environment (wind velocity). The standard flow
rate is 21 to 32 cubic feet per hour, or 10 to 15 liters per
minute.

Welding Speed:

As welding speed increases, weld penetration depth is

reduced and the bead becomes tall and narrow. Continuing
to increase of welding speed may cause an undercut.

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As welding speed decreases, welding performance is

reduced. Generally speaking, welding speed must be
increased for thinner panels.

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Measuring Tools - Body Dimension Measuring Tool

1. Body Dimension Measuring Tool

Tram Gauge:

Used to measure the various body dimensions to check for

upper body and underbody structural damage.
Because of its expandable measuring probes, it can be
widely used for a variety of measurements.

Example of use

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Mechanical type Measuring System:

Used to measure body dimensions when correcting the

body structure on a bench.
There are two types; mechanical type and jig type.

Jig type

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Measuring Tools - Frame Correction Machine

1. Frame Correction Machine

Bench Type:

Used for heavier damage levels.

Bench can be used as a standard to obtain accurate body
dimensional measurements before and during pulling.
Tight clearances between the bench and vehicle body can
make some underbody work difficult.

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Floor Type:

Used for relatively light damage.

Set up is easier than bench type equipment.
Allows pulls to be made in multiple directions with multiple
points.

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MIG Brazing - MIG Brazing Conditions for Ultra High-Strength Steel Parts (1180 & 1500 MPa)

1. MIG Brazing Conditions for Ultra High-Strength Steel Parts (1180 & 1500 MPa)

MIG brazed joint locations for ultra high-strength steel (1500 MPa/1180 MPa) parts are specified in the part installation
instructions contained in section 3 “Replacement” of the model specific body repair manuals. You must follow the conditions
detailed below to ensure adequate joint strength.

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MIG brazing conditions:
Pulsed MIG Welder Set-up for brazing
Wire: CuSi3 or AWS ER CuSi-A
Shield gas: Argon gas 100%

NOTE:
For details about correct welding current and voltage, refer to the equipment manufacturer’s recommendations.
MIG welding/brazing: Metal inert gas welding or brazing where 100% Argon (Ar) shielding gas is used. Argon is inert and
does not react with the molten weld pool or brazing operation.

MIG Brazing to Structural Parts

NOTE: To prevent decreased joint strength, don’t grind a MIG

braze to a structural part.

If a high-strength steel (1500 MPa) part is being brazed to

another high-strength structural steel part (340 MPa or higher).
Drill two 8 mm (0.31 in) holes with approximately
10 mm (0.39 in) distance between them (distance between the
centers of holes) for each MIG brazed joint location shown in
the model specific body repair manual.

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MIG Brazing to Outer (Mild Steel) Panels

NOTE: MIG brazed joints to an outer panel that are visible to

the customer may be ground smooth.

If a high- strength steel (1500 MPa) part is being brazed to 270

MPa part (mild steel plate) such as an outer panel, drill one
hole of diameter 8 mm (0.31 in) in the 270 MPa plate for each
MIG brazed joint location shown in the model specific body
repair manual.

MIG brazing Method

To ensure adequate joint strength, use a pulsed MIG welder

with specified wire and the following brazing technique. This
will create a capillary action in order to liquefy the MIG filler

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wire so that it can penetrate into the upper and lower plates:
Begin brazing about 5 mm (0.20 in) before the hole(s).
Move the torch across the hole in a zigzag pattern as you
close the hole(s).
Continue the brazing operation about 10 mm (0.39 in) past
the hole(s).

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MIG Brazing - MIG Brazing Joint Inspection

1. MIG Brazing Joint Inspection

Visual Inspection

Brazing must achieve penetration in the overlapped joint area. To make this possible, both plates need to be the same
temperature.

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Destructive test

Cut the test piece to separate lengthwise as shown: Joint passes inspection if there is copper silicone filler wire transfer on the
lower plate as shown below.

Without a pulsed MIG welder, it is difficult for the lower plate to reach the required temperature. If the bottom plate does not
reach the correct temperature, brazing filler remains on surface, and you cannot achieve sufficient strength.

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Other Tools

1. Other Tools

Air Chuck Grinder:

Heads can be changed according to the type of work,

making this a very versatile tool.

Main usage types:

Grinding wheels
Used to remove spot welds where a spot weld cutter cannot
be used due to space limitations.
Rotating wire brush
Can be used to remove body sealer, paint layers and rust.
Rotary cutter
Used to peel off fillet welding on aluminum alloy body.

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Paint Application Problems - Lifting (Shrinkage)

1. Lifting (Shrinkage)

Old paint film or base coat is affected by the solvent contained

in the new upper coat. Paint surface warps or shrinks, resulting
in finish wrinkles.

CAUSES:
Painting over the existing paint that is in poor condition, or
that has poor solvent resistance (oxidation-dry enamel,
deteriorated denatured acrylic lacquer or poorly dried paint
film).
Basecoat with poor solvent resistance was covered with
polyester body filler and painted over.
Painting in sandwich layers (lacquer, reaction harder,
lacquer).
Applied additional paint before a previously applied

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dual-component paint was completely dry.

PREVENTION:
Remove the deteriorated old paint film with a sandpaper or
remover.
Apply sealer then urethane-based primer surfacer to the
seal and cover the old paint film with poor solvent
resistance.
Do not apply polyester body filler over the old paint film with
poor solvent resistance.
Do not apply additional paint before a dual-component paint
is completely dry. Force dry if needed.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is not severe, apply a thin coat of paint to
the surface in several steps preventing the solvent from
penetrating through the topcoat.
If the symptom is severe, remove the paint thoroughly and
repaint.

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Paint Application Problems - Orange Peel (Granular Texture)

1. Orange Peel (Granular Texture)

Paint surface is rough with a textured appearance that looks

like an orange skin.

CAUSES:
Wrong reducer/thinner used for ambient conditions (solvent
evaporation too fast).
Paint diluted improperly (insufficient reducer/thinner).
Excessive shop or work surface temperatures.
Moving spray gun too fast or from too far away.

PREVENTION:
Use the appropriate paint reducer/thinner for ambient
conditions and dilute with slightly more reducer/thinner.

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Properly adjust the spray gun pattern.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
For light orange peel, wet sand to smooth the surface, then
polish with compound.
For heavy orange peel, sand and repaint surface.

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Paint Application Problems - Runs

1. Runs

Paint film is not even and it is partly very thick and running
down.

CAUSES:
Wrong reducer/thinner used for ambient conditions (solvent
evaporation too slow).
Paint mixed improperly or coats being applied too thick.
Spray pattern improperly adjusted or incorrect spaying
technique.
Low temperature slowed drying process.

PREVENTION:
Use an appropriate paint reducer/thinner.

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Adjust the paint mixing proportions and/or spray viscosity.
Avoid applying paint in single thick coats. Apply several thin
coats, allowing sufficient “flash” time between each.
Adjust the spray pattern before application. Test-spray the
pattern and operate the spray gun with correctly and
consistently.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Force dry the affected paint area carefully to prevent pin holes
(bubbles). Wet sand to remove the run, then touch up the
surface with compound or repaint.

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Paint Degradation - Blistering

1. Blistering

Blistering symptom caused by the moisture trapped inside the

paint film being expanded by heat, lifting the paint film.

CAUSES:
Paint applied without removing oil/grease, silicone, wax,
sweat, finger print, etc. from the surface being painted.
Sanding dust remained on surface being painted due to
poor washing after wet sanding.
Oil or moisture being mixed in the compressed air supply
for the paint gun.

PREVENTION:
Avoid natural drying after wet sanding. Force dry instead.
Pay extra attention when sanding body filler.

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Check air compressor and pressure regulator oil and water.
Install and maintain oil and water separators on the air line.
Do not touch the area being painted before paint
application.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is severe, strip the base coat or all the way
down to the metal surface and repaint.
If the symptom is light, remove the blisters by sanding, then
repaint.

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Paint Degradation - Discoloration, Yellowing

1. Discoloration, Yellowing

Paint surface partly or entirely disclosed or faded out

comparing to the initial state.

CAUSES:
Use of a paint pigment with poor weather resistance.
Spilled gasoline allowed to stand on some light colors, such
as white.

PREVENTION:
Use the good weather resistant paint pigment
(characteristics of primary colors shown on the color card).
Quickly clean off any spilled gasoline in the fuel filler area
after refueling.

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ACTIONS:
If the symptom is light, polish with compound. If the symptom
is severe, repaint.

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Paint Degradation - Peeling, Poor Adhesion

1. Peeling, Poor Adhesion

Paint peeling off from the old paint film, steel sheet, plastic part
or undercoat.

CAUSES:
Inadequate base material preparation applied according to
material type (bumper, aluminum alloy, etc.).
Poor sanding of old paint film or coating surface.
Poor adhesion between basecoat and topcoat layers or
between old paint film and topcoat.

PREVENTION:
Adequately prepare the base material before painting.
Thoroughly sand the old paint film.

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Clean and degrease the area to be painted.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand down the peeling area thoroughly and repaint.

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Paint Degradation - Water Spots or Stains

1. Water Spots or Stains

Paint surface that has stained or discolored spots.

CAUSES:
Rain drops or dew drops fell on the new paint surface
before fully dry.
Bird droppings, tree resin, gasoline, cement dust, etc.
allowed to remain on the paint surface for a long time.

PREVENTION:
Protect the paint surface from rain, dew or water until fully
dry.
If any foreign material or water drops fall on the paint
surface, wash it down or wipe it up immediately.

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CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is light, polish with a compound to remove
the water spot or stain.
If the symptom is severe, wet sand lightly and repaint.

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Paint Drying and Curing - Drying Processes

1. Drying Processes

Paint Drying Categories The process in which a liquid-like paint is hardened and forms
a hard coat is called drying. The chemical structure of paint
changes between before and after drying.
Paint can be categorized as shown left based on the drying
method.

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Paint Drying and Curing - Reactive Type

1. Reactive Type

In this type of paint, the solvent and thinner in the paint

evaporate and, in addition, resins are hardened and dried by a
chemical reaction (called polymerization):
While heat is not required to dry and from a film, applying
heat will accelerate the chemical reaction. The paint’s
structure also changes from a paint molecule to polymer
coating. It then becomes a high performance, weatherproof,
and solvent resistant paint film.
Resin molecule forms high-molecular-weight compound
through chemical reactions and binding of low-molecular-
weight compound.

1. Coating condition immediately after painting.

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2. Resin molecules in the paint start to react along with the
evaporation of paint reducer/thinner and solvent during
drying process.

3. The coat is completely free of solvents or thinners. The

chemical reaction of the resin molecules is completed and
they form a net-like coat (3D paint structure).

Heat Polymerization:
This type of paint is called baked finish paint. These
paints start a chemical reaction when heated (typically
over 248 °F (120 °C) for 20 to 30 minutes) after
application. This forms a net-like structure as the paint
hardens, ensuring outstanding coating performance
and are high solvent resistance once completely dried.
Most of the paint used for automobile production is the
heat polymerization type, including thermoset aluminum
alkyd (baking melamine) and thermoset acrylic.
This paint type is rarely used for repairs because plastic
parts and electric components would need to be
removed from the affected area in the car, or otherwise
protected from heat.

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Dual-Component Polymerization (Dual-Component Paints):

This type of paint is commonly known as
dual-component paint because an additive called
hardener (kept in a separate container) is added to the
paint to start a reaction and form a hard netted coat.
This reaction takes places at a normal temperature,
although it can be accelerated at higher temperatures
104－140 °F (40－80 °C).

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Paint Drying and Curing - Solvent-Evaporation Type (Air Dry)

1. Solvent-Evaporation Type (Air Dry)

This type of paints forms a coat when the solvent and

thinner in them evaporate. Resins remain unchanged after
the formation of the coat. Therefore, the hardened coat can
be wiped off easily with a reducer/thinner.
Air dry type paints are not used often anymore due low
solvent and weather resistance.

1. Coating condition immediately after painting.

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2. A layer of paint film is formed through air drying process as
paint thinner and solvent evaporate.

3. Resin molecule reaction stops when completely dried, and

a horizontally aligned paint film gets formed (2D paint
structure).

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Paint Finish Components - Hardener

Hardener reacts and molecularly-bonds with the main resin component to form the paint film:
Two pack paint requires hardener to be mixed with the base resin to achieve complete paint film performance.
Acrylic urethane is mainly used for automobile repair along with an Isocyanate-based hardener.

(Reference)
Pay an extra attention when handling and storing isocyanates, such as hardener. They react very easily with water (H-O-H)
and alcohol solvents ( –OH group).

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Paint Finish Components - Paint Structure

1. Paint Structure

Paint is a high viscosity liquid with the mixed constituents such as shown below. It normally is mixed with reducer or thinner to a
sprayable and /or useable viscosity and combined with a chemical hardener. In addition, the paint can be categorized into clear
(without pigment), enamel with pigment and basecoat.

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Paint Finish Components - Pigment

Pigment is solid powder and does not dissolve in or solvent. It is kneaded into resin (film forming component) and dispersed so
that the paint becomes usable.

Categories of Pigment

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Extender

Mostly used for base coat to reinforce and add body to the paint film.

Corrosion Resistant

Mainly used in basecoats to prevent rust.

Color Pigment

Color pigments are used mainly in top-coat paints to give colors and hiding power to the coating:
General Pigment
Gives various colors to paint such as red, blue and yellow.
Metallic Pigment
Metallic pigments are tiny flakes of aluminum and are used to give shiny and metallic look to the coating.
Titanized Mica Pigment
These pigments consist of flakes of mica coated with titanium oxides and give pearl-like luster to the coating.

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Paint Finish Components - Resin

Resins, together with pigments, are main components of coating. Generally, a resin is a viscous and transparent liquid which is
applied over an object and forms a coat when dried.

Types of Resin

Natural Resins
A type of resin extracted from plants or animals, mainly used for lacquer type finishes.

Synthetic Resins
A type of resin made through chemical synthesis. It can be categorized as thermoplastics resin and thermosetting resin:
Thermoplastic Resins
Thermoplastic resins can be softened repeatedly by heating and hardened again on cooling. Most of them are highly
flexible, and are dissolved by solvents. Typically, they include such materials as nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate,
polypropylene and nylon.
Thermosetting Resins

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Thermosetting resins are initially soft but change irreversibly to a hard rigid form when heated. They are generally very hard
but brittle, and resistant against solvents. Typically, they include amino resins, polyurethane resins and epoxy resins

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Paint Finish Components - Solvent or Paint Reducer/Thinner

1. Solvent or Paint Reducer/Thinner

Solvent is a liquid that dissolves another substance to form a solution. In the process of making paints, a solvent is used to
dissolve resins so that pigments are mixed easily with the resins. A thinner is a mixture of solvents. It is used to dilute paints to
an appropriate viscosity level for application. Solvents and thinners evaporate as the paint is dried, and do not remain in the
coating.
Because of this, the specific blends of several types of solvents are required for specific paint types. In addition, reducer/thinners
are available in different evaporation rates to compensate for ambient temperatures & conditions.

Type Solvent
Alcohol Methanol, isopropyl alcohol (IPA), butanol
Ester Ethyl acetate, butyl acetate
Ketone MEK, acetone, MIBK, DIBK
Ether Ethyl cellosolve
Aromatic Hydrocarbon Toluene, xylol
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Petroleum benzene, solvent naphtha

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Water Water

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Paint Finish Problems - Bleeding

1. Bleeding

Color of the old paint film or basecoat penetrates through the

top coat.

CAUSES:
The old paint payer was a primary color (red, yellow, blue),
which have a tendency to penetrate or bleed through the
topcoat.
Body filler not allowed to dry sufficiently.
Tar, etc. adhered to basecoat.

PREVENTION:
Paint a small spot to test for penetration or ‘‘bleed’’.
Allow body filler to dry thoroughly.

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Completely remove tar, etc. from the surface being painted.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is not severe, apply sealer or urethane type
primer surfacer and force dry. Then repaint.
If the symptom is severe, strip off the paint, then repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Chalking (Whitening)

1. Chalking (Whitening)

Moisture in the air is concentrated in the paint film making the

surface whitish, dulling the desired gloss.

CAUSES:
Using fast evaporating paint reducer/thinner during high
temperature and humidity ambient conditions.
Spray gun air pressure too high.
Extremely cold paint surface.

PREVENTION:
Use high quality reducer/thinner with the correct
evaporation rate (addition of an evaporation retarder can
also help).

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Properly set the spray gun’s air pressure.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is not severe, add the retarder to the diluted
paint and repaint. Or polish the paint surface with
compound.
If the symptom is severe, sand down the paint surface after
drying it thoroughly. Then repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Fish Eyes (Cratering)

1. Fish Eyes (Cratering)

Dents or crater-like holes appear sporadically on the paint film

surface.

CAUSES:
Paint was applied to a surface contaminated with silicone,
wax, grease, oil, etc.
Dust in the air from polishing compound, wax, etc. adhered
to the wet paint surface.
Water or oil contamination in the air supply lines.
Overspray from an incompatible paint type adhered to the
paint surface.

PREVENTION:

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Check and service the compressed air supply and lines
thoroughly.
Sand the old paint film only after cleaning the area with
degreaser such as pre-solvent or equivalent material.
Thoroughly remove all sanding dust.
Do not reuse shop cloths or tack rags.
Wipe the area with pre-solvent and/or a tack cloth before
painting.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the fisheye is shallow, level the paint film by spraying dry
paint mist.
After drying, recondition the area by wet sanding and
repainting.
Use a commercially available “fish-eye eliminator”, but test
it before application.

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Paint Finish Problems - Metallic Mottling

1. Metallic Mottling

Metallic particles in the base coat are dispersed unevenly,

partially changing the color’s appearance.
Metallic particles are moved to irregular arrangement during
clearcoat application.

CAUSES:
Improper painting conditions (paint reducer/thinner type,
paint volume, air pressure, discharge volume, use of spray
gun) and painting technique (spray pattern).
Paint reducer/thinner evaporation rate extremely slow.
Clearcoat excessively diluted with paint reducer/thinner.
Insufficient drying time between application of metallic color
coat and clearcoat.

PREVENTION:

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Paint under the optimum conditions.
Inspect and clean the spray gun.
Properly dilute clearcoat with the paint reducer/thinner.
Allow sufficient drying time before clearcoat application.
Apply clearcoat in several thin coats.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the clearcoat has not been applied, take enough setting
time to and repeat the metallic color coat application steps
to remove unevenness.
If the clear coat had already been applied, dry the surface
completely. Then sand and repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Paint Contamination (Debris)

1. Paint Contamination (Debris)

Foreign particles are trapped in the finish surface, causing the

swelled paint surface. This is caused by the foreign particles
entering the paint during storage or application.

CAUSES:
Dust and dirt in the air adheres to the wet paint film.
Dust and dirt coming out around the fenders, doors and
plastic strips during painting.
Paint applied without being thoroughly stirred.
Spray gun not cleaned thoroughly after prior use.
Use of the paint that has skinned inside the container.
Improper paint straining and/or air filtration.

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PREVENTION:
Keep the paint workshop clean. Use dust prevention
methods.
Remove the dust and dirt thoroughly from the surface being
painted.
Pay special attention to ventilation to draw the fresh air into
the workshop.
Clean the spray gun used thoroughly after each use.
Stir the mixed paint thoroughly before use.
Use the recommended paint reducer/thinner and strain
mixed paint before use.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Remove foreign particles from the paint surface using a
sharp stick or equivalent tool, if paint is still wet.
Small foreign particles on the surface of the paint film can
be removed with compound or by polishing.
If the foreign particles are large and deep in the paint film,
wet sand the area using P400 or finer sandpaper, then
repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Pinholes

1. Pinholes

Fine perforations like pin holes appear in the paint surface.

CAUSES:
Paint applied too thick or flash time was insufficient.
Paint spraying viscosity was too high.
Painted surface was heated quickly soon after painting.
Existing air bubble holes in the body filler.
High ambient humidity.

PREVENTION:
Apply paint in several thin coats with sufficient flash time
between each.
Accurately dilute the paint with reducer/thinner.

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Allow sufficient setting time before force-drying paint.
Correct any air bubble holes in body filler before painting.
Spray basecoat with care to avoid dry spray.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is light, remove the pin holes by sanding,
then apply topcoat again.
If the pin holes appear in the entire surface or if the pin
holes are deep, strip off the paint and repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Sanding Scratches

1. Sanding Scratches

Paper trace or hairline scratches in the old paint film or

basecoat develop and appear magnified by the solvent
contained in the topcoat.

CAUSES:
Sandpaper used for sanding too coarse.
Basecoat was sanded before it completely dried.
Applied excessively diluted paint in coats that were too
thick.
Paint topcoat film too thin.

PREVENTION:
Use correct grade of sandpaper according to the type of

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topcoat.
Apply basecoat and allow sufficient drying time before
sanding.
Apply topcoat mixed with the proper amount of paint
reducer/thinner allowing proper flash time between coats.
Apply topcoat in several steps.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If the symptom is not severe, polish the surface with
compound after drying completely.
If the symptom is noticeable, wet sand the area and repaint.

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Paint Finish Problems - Swelling

1. Swelling

Extension or shrinkage along edge of body filler application.

CAUSES:
Putty was softened when it is coated with the topcoat
before fully hardened, producing a ‘‘putty trace’’.
Basecoat with poor solvent resistance was covered with
polyester body filler, then topcoated.
Insufficient sanding of body filler.
Paint coat dried too quickly.

PREVENTION:
Allow basecoat to dry completely before applying the
topcoat.

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Mix the body filler with specified amount of hardener and
allow filler to dry thoroughly after application.
Do not apply body filler over the old paint with poor solvent
resistance.
Avoid excessively thick paint coat application.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
After thorough drying, remove the putty trace by sanding and
refinishing affected surface.

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Paint Matching (Color Mixing Work) - Before Mixing Colors

1. Before Mixing Colors

Exterior Color Label Location Confirming Paint Colors for Honda and Acura
Vehicles

Confirm the paint ID on the exterior color label, model type and
frame No. plate which can be found in the various places listed
below. Check the vehicle service manual for specific location.

(The location of model type information and frame No. plate

differ depending on the vehicle model; driver’s door jamb, front
bulkhead, front damper housing, dashboard upper etc.)

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Color Mixing Process Confirming Color Mixing Data and Color Mixing
Process

Confirm the data based on the mixing color composition table

for repair paint issued by the paint manufacturer. By accessing
accurate color mixing data, errors and problems are less likely
to occur, saving you time.

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Paint Matching (Color Mixing Work) - Color Mixing Steps

1. Color Mixing Steps

1. Comparison of Color Code and Body Color:

Confirm the color difference between the color card

attached to the color sample book and the color
surrounding the damaged area on the actual car.
If no color sample is available but color mixing specs
are available, use a small amount of paint to mix some
sample color. Test spray the sample to create a sample
plate and compare against the actual color on the
vehicle.
If the color sample and actual vehicle colors difference
is too great, check availability of a different and/or new
color mixing spec.

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2. Measured Color Mixing:

Compare the color code against the actual color on the

vehicle and when there are no significant differences in
hue, shade of color and direction, mix the colors
according to the mixing color spec.
If the difference is too great, adjust the color using
primary colors.

3. Test Painting, Colorimetry:

Test paint should be conducted under the same

conditions as the actual paint repair. In particular, pay
extra attention in handling pearl and metallic colors as
painting conditions can greatly impact the results.
Compare fully dried test plates against the actual
vehicle color for color difference, conditionally identical
colors, direction, size of metallic or pearl grain and
brightness, etc. under various light sources.

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4. Fine Adjustment of Color:

As a basic rule, use a small amount of the paint

indicated in the color mixing spec to make an
adjustment. However in some cases a new color can
be added if necessary.
Repeat the test paint, colorimetry work and adjustment
until the desired color is obtained.

5. Complete.

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Paint Matching (Color Mixing Work) - Key Points in Color Comparison and Matching

1. Key Points in Color Comparison and Matching

1. Colorimetry Steps:

When comparing colors, usually the body panel right

next to the repair area is used. Make sure to remove
any stains on the panel by polishing with a very fine
compound for an accurate comparison.
Prepare a test piece of the same material and size. For
ease of comparison, pace the test plate on top of the
actual vehicle panel. Then place an achromatic colored
magnet sheet with an opening on top.

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2. Lighting and Environment:

The ideal type of light when comparing colors is

diffused daylight. However, color matching is not
always done outside under daylight. In such cases, use
an artificial light source which offers a wavelength very
close to sunlight.
In case of using an artificial light source to compare
colors, prepare a light with 1,500 to 3,000 lux of
illuminance. The actual required level of illuminance
differs by color.

NOTE: The definition of diffused daylight is a light from a

North facing window that avoids direct sunlight from three
hours after sunrise until three hours before sunset.

3. View Angle and Distance:

Check from at least three different directions at a distance

of 3－5 m (10－16 ft) away.

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4. Color Change Between Immediately After Painting and

After Dry:

The color on the test plate immediately after painting

and after complete drying will be different. This is due
to specific weight of pigment. Pigments with light
specific weight will rise to the surface when the paint
dries
In normal cases, solid colors tend to be darker and
metallic pearl colors tend to be lighter as they dry. Make
sure to compare colors for matching only after they are
completely dry.

5. Color Changes Caused by Clearcoat:

Metallic, pearl, and solid colors change their hues after

clearcoat application. When working with clearcoat paint,
only compare the colors for match only after clearcoat is
applied when using clear coating.

Paint Colors After Clearcoat

Solid General Colors Becomes yellowish if
painted repeatedly

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Black Looks whitish when
seen from the side
angle
Metallic, Pearl Silver Metallic Looks whitish when
seen from the side
angle, darken from 45
°
Colored Metallic, Becomes deeper and
Pearl brighter

6. Color Changes Caused by Polishing:

Some paint colors change after polishing. For these types

of paint, fully dry then polish the test piece. Compare the
colors after polishing.

7. Mixing Hardener:

Dual-component paints tendency to lighten the base resin

color when mixed with a hardener. Compare the color
match only after the specified amount of hardener has been
mixed with the paint.

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8. Color Change as the Result of Spray Condition:

In particular, metallic and pearl colors may change hue

according to the paint particle arrangement. This can
be affected by the type and amount of paint
reducer/thinner dilution or spray gun adjustment.
Generally, because a wet paint coat has a systematic
arrangement of metallic particles, dense pigments stay
close to the surface of the paint layer which makes the
paint look deeper. Dry paint coats have an irregular
arrangement of metallic particles, where irregularly
arranged pigments stay close to the surface of the
layer. This makes the paint appear lighter.

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Paint Matching (Color Mixing Work) - Key Points in Mixing and Matching Pearl Colors

1. Key Points in Mixing and Matching Pearl Colors

Three-Coat Pearl: Color Base Mixing

Because these pearl colors look transparent through the color

base, it is necessary to match the color to the color base film
(intermediate coat 2) after polishing the top coat down to the
color base layer (intermediate coat 2).

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Pearl Base Film Thickness:

Because the color changes greatly due to the thickness of

pearl base paint film, prepare 3 to 4 test paint pieces, each
with a different number of spray gun passes of pearl base
paint. Then choose the one closest to the actual body color.
When applying paint to the repair area, use the number of
spray gun passes as the matching test piece.
Generally with the white pearl colors, thicker paint layers
increase the brightness as viewed from a 45 ° angle.
However, the color viewed from the side becomes deeper.
Interference pearl paints show a deeper hue when viewed
from a 45 ° angle, and its complementary color becomes
deeper when viewed from the side.

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Two-Coat Pearl:

Some two-coat pearl paints have a metallic base in addition

to pearl mica. Select the necessary metallic base in
addition to the pearl base for these type paints.
The colors of paints with only pearl mica are greatly
affected by paint viscosity and spray pressure. When
viscosity is low and spray pressure is high, the color
becomes lighter because the pearl mica content becomes
stronger.
When the paint contains both pearl mica and metallic
bases, it should be applied the same way as a metallic
base paint.

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Paint Matching (Color Mixing Work) - Work Environment

1. Work Environment

A good work environment is necessary for matching colors, colorimetric work and test painting:
The most important factor is a brightness. Abundant natural light including direct sunlight is required.
Fluorescent light with high color rendering properties should be used.
The work area should be painted in a soft achromatic color, such as white or gray.
Driers, spray devices and other necessary tools should be organized for efficient workflow.

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Paint Repair - Attached Parts Removal

1. Attached Parts Removal

1. Wash Vehicle:

Water wash from the roof downward. Move to the hood,

trunk lid and side panels.
Remove wax with neutral detergent to help prevent
contaminants from entering the paint shop area.

2. Removal of Attached Parts:

Refer to the Service Manual on chassis maintenance.

Where necessary, remove attached parts and use an
air blow gun remove dust and dirt. Remove any water
from the paint surface.
When a heater is used for drying, be sure to remove

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heat-sensitive plastic parts from the area being
repaired.

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Paint Repair - Basecoat (Primer-Surfacer) Application

1. Basecoat (Primer-Surfacer) Application

Quick Dry Urethane Primer-Surfacer Use

Example

1. Before Coating:

‐1. Checking the coating surface:

Before applying the primer-surfacer, be sure to

inspect the coating surface. Deep surface damage
will remain even after the primer- surfacer is
applied. Then it would become necessary to repair
the damage after the primer surfacer is applied.
When it is necessary to sand deep surface damage,
use a double action sander with P240 to P400
sandpaper.

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Use a hand file together with P400 to P600
sandpaper to remove damage where a sander
cannot be used.

‐2. Scuffing (for primer-surfacer coating):

Use a double action sander with P320 sandpaper to

sand the hairline sanding scratches on the
filled/putted surface.
Use a hand file, for the areas a sander cannot
access, along with P600 sandpaper to remove
sanding scratches.
Apply scuffing up to approximately 10 cm (4 in)
away from the edge of filled/puttied area.

‐3. Air blow all dust, dirt and body filler/putty residue from
the area.

‐4. Apply reverse masking slightly outside the primer-

surfacer coating area with a margin.

‐5. Degrease and clean up the primer-surfacer application

area.

2. Preparation of Primer-Surfacer:

Spec of Primer-Surfacer (reference)

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3. Applying and Drying Primer-Surfacer:

The nozzle diameter of spray guns used for primer-surfacer
should be 1.5 to 1.8 mm (0.050 to 0.070 in), depending
upon the size of the repair area.

‐1. Retouching.
Spray primer-surfacer to the entire repair area.

‐2. Within the retouch area, spray while making the surface
flat.
Repeat two to three times based on the basecoat
condition.

‐3. Allow sufficient flash time.

‐4. Continue to apply, narrowing the application surface to

avoid overspray.

‐5. Dry the primer-surfacer.

Force-dry after allowing sufficient set-up time.

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4. Confirmation of Primer-Surfacer Coating Surface and Spot
Putty:

Thoroughly inspect the primer-surfacer coated surface

for hairline sanding scratches and cavities.
When scratches or cavities are found, fill them with spot
putty (touch- up putty).

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5. Sanding Primer-Surfacer Coating (including spot putty):

‐1. Sand the spot putty and primer surfacer coated surface
by dry or wet sanding to finish the surface.

NOTE: Do not over sand as it will result in exposure of

bare metal or body filler.

Dry Sanding:
For hand sanding, use P600 to P800 sandpaper
together with a rubber sanding block. Continuously
remove any sanding dust to avoid clogging the
sandpaper.
When using a double action sander, use P400
sandpaper.

Wet Sanding:
Manually sand using P400 to P800 wet-or-dry
sandpaper.
While wet sanding, use a sponge soaked with water
to keep the sanding surface sufficiently moistened.

‐2. Completely dry the surface with a compressed air blow

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gun and infrared lights after wet water sanding.

NOTE: Use a dry sprayed guide coat to visually check

surface flatness.

6. Inspection and Repair after Sanding:

Inspect the state of the finished primer-surfacer coated

surface.
If the surface is OK without any thin or uncoated spots,
move on to the topcoating process.
If any defect is found on the surface including thin or
unpainted spots, exposed filler/putty, or bare steel
panel, repeat the primer-surfacer coating and sanding
processes.

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Paint Repair - Basic Topcoat Application Process

1. Basic Topcoat Application Process

Use of 2K Paint (Example)

1. Light Coating:

Spray a light coat to check for any issues with the paint.
When lifting is found on the surface of coating, fill with
dry coating.

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2. Fixing Color:

Spray a medium coat.

Continue spraying until the basecoat is completely
covered.
Do not attempt to spray one thick coat. Apply several
thin coats with sufficient flash time in between.
For metallic colors, spray carefully not to create color
unevenness. Pay attention to overlap pattern.

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3. Removing Unevenness (Metallic Color, Pearl Color):

Maintain the same spray size as the color fixing

process and hold the gun slightly further away from the
coating surface. Move the gun more slowly to leave the
surface a little wetter.
By keeping the surface a little wet with paint, it is
possible to let metallic and pearl base arrange
regularity, which reduce any uneven surface
appearance.
Overlap spray gun passes repeatedly until the paint film
surface evens out.

4. Finishing:

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1-Coat Solid
Finish the coated surface smoothly and match the
adjoining panels’ surface quality.
Metallic, Pearl and 2-Coat Solid
Spray clearcoat to smoothly finish the coated surface.

States of Finishing Surface and Coating Conditions

(Reference)
Roughness of
Surface Type of Surface
Surface
coating
method Fine Rough
High Low
surface surface
Spray Gun
Nozzle Small Large Large Small
Diameter
Paint
Low High High Low
Viscosity
Spray
High Low Low High
Pressure
Distance of
－ － Far Near
Spray Gun
Speed of
Fast Low Low Fast
Spray Gun
Thinner
Evaporation Fast Low Fast Low
Speed
Not
Flash Time － － Required
Required

Flash Time and Set-Up Time

Flash Time (Interval between Paint coats)

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When layering several coatings, allow paint solvent to

evaporate somewhat before applying another coat. This
waiting time between the paint coats is called flash time.

Set-Up Time
The time between completion of painting and starting of the
force-drying process. If the painted surface is heated
immediately after application where the solvent is still very
actively evaporating, paint defects such as pinholes will occur.

Steps of Gradation Paint (Gradation of Solid

and Clear)

NOTE: Gradation paint is a clear paint diluted by the paint

reducer/thinner. Its viscosity is very low and it applies in very
thin layers.

1. Spray so that the luster will be even with the old painted
surfaces.

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2. Dilute the finishing paint following the paint manufacturer’s
instructions.

3. Spray the gradation paint so that the new and old surfaces
blend with each other.

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Steps of Gradation Paint (Gradation of Metallic

and Pearl)

NOTE: Gradation paint is a clear paint diluted by the paint

reducer/thinner. Its viscosity is very low and it applies in very
thin layers.

When using under clear coating

1. Spray under clearcoating roughly around the repair area.

2. Spray a base color on the under cleared area.

3. Repeat these steps until no differences between the old

and new paint layer in color while keeping the under clear
wet.

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Paint Repair - Cleaning and Degreasing

1. Cleaning and Degreasing

1. Compressed Air Blow Gun:

If the material or paint layer surface is not completely
cleaned of dust, contaminants, oil, etc., adhesion defects
may occur after painting.

NOTE: Thoroughly remove all dust and dirt from inside

jambs and between panels with a compressed air blow gun.

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2. Degreasing:
Wet a clean cloth with degreaser and apply to the panel
surface being painted. Make sure the surface is fully
moistened then wipe the area with a second clean dry
cloth.

NOTE: Always do this step before painting.

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Paint Repair - Masking Methods

1. Masking Methods

Masking Steps Example of (Outer Panel and

Door Edge)

1. Place the masking tape with the glued surface toward the
painted surface at the outer panel corner area.

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2. Close the door.

3. Bend the masking tape along the outer panel surface

towards the door making sure the tape extends further
inside the panel corner. And then place another masking
tape to fix the position.

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4. Mask the whole door.

Reverse Masking:

Round up the masking paper to create a soft edge corner

so that paint mist is applied thinly towards the end of line.

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Use masking paper for the flat surface, and masking tape
for the corners.
There are two reverse masking methods. One is to use a
masking tape and another is to use a masking paper.

NOTE: Painting the way to the separation line defeats the

purpose of reverse masking. Consider the size of repair area
and apply masking with an ample margin.

Tunnel Masking

When giving a gradation paint to a pillar or similar parts, lift the

masking paper from the repair part to create a tunnel-like
space so that ending line of the paint becomes fuzzy resulting
in smooth color gradation of the repair part to the original
colored part. In some cases, the masking is lifted at two or
three stages based on the cycles of the gradation paint

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Paint Repair - Masking Process

1. Masking Process

Masking is conducted when lower coat (primer-surfacer) and topcoat are applied.
The purpose of masking is to prevent the paint from adhering to areas other than the repair area. It also prevents paint
overspray, dust, and dirt into the vehicle.
The work processes or methods may differ depending on the repaired area and painting method, but the general steps of
masking are as follows:

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Paint Repair - Masking Tools and Materials

1. Masking Tools and Materials

Masking Paper:

Masking paper is a cover or paper applied in order to

prevent unwanted adhesion of paint and overspray outside
of the work area.
There are several different kinds of masking paper
available. Some resist solvent penetration or high
temperatures. A liquid type-masking agent is also available
that can be applied with a spray gun.

Masking Tape:

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Masking tape for paint repair may be used with a masking
paper or by itself.
Paper-based masking tape is most common, but there are
also metallic tapes which are heat resistant, and plastic
tapes which create sharp masking lines depending upon
the purposes.

Composition of Masking Tape:

Back Surface Treatment Agent: Prevent tape from sticking
to another tape.
Backing: Tape base made of paper, cloth, plastic etc.
Primer: Enhances adhesion of glue to the base material
and prevents glue residue on the applied surfaces.
Adhesive: Material with gluing capability.

Usage Based on Backing Material:

Masking tape often used for automotive repair is made of
Japanese paper, and has high heat and solvent resistance.
It also is designed not to leave adhesive residue on body
surfaces after tape removal.
Plastic tape is ideal for edging, trimming, and separation of
curved surfaces or and two-tone painting, etc.
There are two types of backing surface texture; one normal
type with a flat surface and another called crape-tape with
fine wrinkles. The crape-tape stretches and shrinks slightly,
so it is suitable for masking curved surfaces.

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Other Types of Masking Tape

Masking Tape for Two-Tone Paint

This type of tape is called vinyl tape, trimming tape, or fine line
tape. It is ideal for separating curved lines of surfaces, or
separating color tones. It can create a clean masking line
without fuzziness.

Tape for Painting Lines

This tape has scored lines of various width, so it can be used
for paining multi-width lines.

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Paper Dispenser

In the device, rolled masking paper and masking tape are

matched. This allows you to remove the required masking
paper size with tape already applied. This device also makes it
possible to set different sized masking paper simultaneously.

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Polyvinyl Sheet

This sheet is composed of three combined layers,

polyethylene, polypropylene, and polymer for use as an
automotive masking sheet. It absorbs and retains paint
overspray mist and powder.

Sheet Dispenser

Using this stand it is easier to dispense polyvinyl sheet.

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Magnet

It is used to attach vinyl sheet on the vehicle or press tight a

wrinkled vinyl sheet in a pulled state. Magnets make it possible
to shift the vinyl sheet’s position as required.

Special Covers

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There are body covers available for a variety of uses made of
special synthetic paper or treated fabric. Some cover the
whole body, others cover just part of it. In addition, there are
wheel covers and interior covers that protect the passenger
compartment.

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Trim Lifting and Masking Tape

This tape is used to prevent the rubber weatherstrips around

glass from being paint-stained. By inserting it between the
rubber weatherstrip and body, the strip can be held away from
the body.

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Paint Repair - Metal Surface Treatment

1. Metal Surface Treatment (Epoxy Primer Coating)

When bare metal surfaces are exposed to air after sanding,

corrosion will form quickly. Apply epoxy primer to the surface in
order to prevent corrosion and to improve topcoat adhesion:
-1. Mix the main agent with its additives and dilute it with the
correct reducer/thinner.
-2. Apply one or two layers using a spray gun or brush.
-3. Allow the epoxy primer to dry.

Drying time should be around about 60 minutes at 68 °F (20

°C). Force-drying will improve the paint quality. Check for the
epoxy primer manufacturer’s product spec for the actual
required drying time.

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2. Selection of Body Filler/Putty

There are different kinds of body filler or putty:

Metal filler is good for rough filling when thickness is
needed.
Light-weight panel filler sands very smooth.
Polyester putty which dries fast and sands very smooth,
etc.

Each has its own characteristics, so choose a body filler or

putty most suitable for the work being done.
In the following work process example, we will use
intermediate body filler/putty. This type has characteristics of
both panel and polyester fillers.

3. Preparing Intermediate Filler/Putty

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-1. Stir the putty until it is a smooth consistency.

-2. Remove the required amount of filler/putty and place it on
a mixing board. Then mix with the correct amount of
hardener.
-3. Knead and mix the filler and hardener with a spatula until
the color becomes even. Be careful not to entrap air in the
filler.

4. Application of Intermediate Filler/Putty

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Apply intermediate filler/putty with a spreader into the recess of
the damaged area.

NOTE: When the old paint layer is a lacquer type, be careful

not to put the filler/putty directly on the old paint surface. If it
happens, the filled area mark show through the new topcoat
paint.

Basics on Body Filler/Putty Application

Do not apply filler/putty in a single thick layer. Instead, apply it

in several thinner layer with sufficient drying time allowed
between each.

NOTE: Be careful not to trap air in the filler/putty.

1. Covering:
At the first application of the filler/putty, stand the spatula
nearly straight up apply the filler/putty very thinly so that it
penetrates into the hairline sanding scratches.

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2. Thickening:
Build up the filler/putty using a spreader held at a small
angle.

3. Flattening:

If the spreader leaves unevenness filler/putty surface,

remove them by flattening the spreader’s angle.
NOTE: Surface unevenness is cause by the step-shape
at end of spreader. Don’t push the spatula too hard,
and completely smooth the filler/putty before it starts to

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dry up.
NOTE: If a large amount of putty is applied at one time,
air may be entrapped in the putty, causing air pockets.
Use the proper spreader direction and angle depending
on the filler/putty surface desired for paint repair.

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Filler/Putty Application on Curved Surface

1. Apply filler/putty to the damaged area (a) with a plastic

spreader.

2. Apply filler/putty to the damaged area (c) with a rubber

spreader.

3. Apply filler/putty along the line on the reverse curved

surface of the damaged area (b) using a rubber spreader.

Putty on Stamping Line

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Use masking tape for applying filler/putty on a straight-line
area like the stamping line.

1. Place the masking tape along the upper and lower

stamping lines of the damaged area (b).

2. Apply filler/putty to the damaged area (a) and surface (c).

3. Remove the masking tape after putty dries.

4. Place the masking tape along the stamping lines of

damaged area (a) and (c) and apply putty on the damaged
area (b).

NOTE: Disposing Filler/Putty

Body filler or putty generates heat via thermal reaction
while hardening.
Place leftover filler/putty into a fireproof disposal can.
Wait until the filler/putty cools down before disposing in
a regular trash can.
Do not dispose of filler/putty with flammable materials
due to the risk of fire.

5. Drying Intermediate Filler/Putty

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The drying time depends greatly upon ambient temperature.

Filler/putty thickness also affects the drying time because a
thermal reaction takes place while it is drying. Thicker
filler/putty layers trap heat, increasing the internal temperature
and accelerating the drying time.

NOTE:
Check the filler/putty manufacturer’s instructions for drying
time.
Before starting forced drying, allow sufficient set-up time.
Force dry at a temperature of approximately 122－140 °F
(50－60 °C). Higher temperatures may degrade the
hardener.
Avoid rapid heating or cooling as it may cause distortion of
the steel body panel and cracking or peeling of the
filler/putty.

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6. Sanding of Intermediate Filler/Putty

1. Sanding with Sander (Rough Sanding):

Use a double action sander or orbital sander with P80 to
P120 sandpaper depending on the filler/putty condition and
sanding surface area. Sand the filler/putty surface to a
rough surface shape. Filler/putty must be dry-sanded.

NOTE: Use a dry sprayed guide coat to visually check the

flatness of the filled surface.

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2. Manual Sanding (Rough Surfacing):

While feeling the rough sanded surface with your fingertips,
bring the surface to the final finish using P120 to P180
sandpaper together with a file and a rubber block.

NOTE: Be careful not to sand the area excessively.

3. Confirmation after Intermediate Filler/Putty Surfacing:

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Check the surface for cavities or hairline scratches by
feeling it with your fingertips. Then move on to the
primer-surfacer process.
If a dent could not be filled with body filler or putty the
first time, or there are low spots apply additional
filler/putty again to correct them. Use polyester
filler/putty in this case.
Use a surform tool when rough sanding wax type metal
filler because it is difficult to sand.
Sanding becomes more difficult after the filler/putty
hardens too much. It is the best to sand approximately
2 to 10 minutes from the start of hardening. Note that
the edges of body filler/putty adhere slower than the
center, so start sanding from the center in a radial
direction.
NOTE: After a metal puttied surface is sanded, a
number of hollow cavities remain on its surface.
Because it is difficult to fill tiny air cavities with a primer-
surfacer, use polyester filler/putty instead.

7. Cleaning and Degreasing

Blow air on the filled surface and remove any oily residue with
solvent.

NOTE: Remove sanding residues from cavity holes.

8. Preparation of Polyester Filler/Putty

Mix the filler/putty with the required amount of hardener and

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knead it until its color becomes even.

9. Application of Polyester Filler/Putty

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Apply polyester filler/putty.

10.Drying Polyester Filler/Putty

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Dry polyester filler/putty.

11. Sanding and Finishing Polyester Filler/Putty

Use P180 to P240 sandpaper when manually sanding.

Use P120 to P180 sandpaper when using a disc sander.

NOTE: Be careful not to sand excessively.

12.Featheredge (Scuffing for basecoat)

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Depending upon the situation, make the sanded old paint

layer an even slope without steps.
For the old paint layer where primer-surfacer will be
applied, scuff it with sandpaper for better adhesion to the
new paint

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Paint Repair - Paint Stripping

1. Paint Stripping

If using paint stripper:

Use a chemical paint stripper to remove the old paint layers

if the damage is too deep or its deterioration is extensive.
Paint stripper can also be used on large repair areas.

1. Place the masking tape about 1－2 cm (0.4－0.8 in) inside

from the edge of the area being stripped to protect the
surrounding surfaces.

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2. Sand the surface to be stripped with P60 to P80 sandpaper
to improve penetration of the paint stripper.

3. Liberally apply the paint stripper on the surface with a brush

in one direction only.

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4. When the paint layer becomes softened, remove it with a

scraper or spatula.

5. Remove any remaining paint stripper and other residue by

rinsing thoroughly with water.

6. If any paint or masking tape marks remain on the surface,

sand them off with P60 to P80 sandpaper. Clean the area
using degreaser after sanding.

Removal with Disc Sander

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If the repair area is small, use a disc sander to remove the old
paint layer.

NOTE: There is no need to apply excessive pressure to the

sander. Press down lightly on the sanding disc at an angle of
10 °－15 ° against the paint layer.

Attach P60 to P80 sandpaper to the disk to sand the damaged

or deteriorated area smooth.

NOTE: Remove any decals or trim attachment tape using a

razor spatula or scraper. Use a degreaser to completely
remove any glue residue.

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Paint Repair - Polishing

1. Polishing

1. Removing Small Cavities or Paint Grains:

Remove small cavities and paint grains with a honing

stone or wet-or-dry sandpaper.
Start with a rough wet-or-dry sandpaper and finish up
with a fine P2000 to P3000 paper.

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2. Finishing of Painted Surface:
Sand the painted surface in one direction with water or
soapy water using P1200 to P3000 wet-or-dry sandpaper to
flatten the surface. Wipe off any remaining sanding
particles using a cloth.

Polishing 3. Matching Surface Quality and Polishing:

With fine compound, polish the surface with a polisher

set with a towel buff or intermediate sponge buff to
remove hairline sanding scratches. Finally, polish it out
with finer compound.
Remove compound residue frequently to avoid
damaging the paint surface.

NOTE: Turn on the polisher power switch after it is touching

the painted surface.

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Finessing

4. Move the polisher along the panel surface parallel to the

ground (horizontal direction).

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5. Where the paint is repaired in gradation, move the polisher
from the newly painted area to the old painted area.

NOTE: Moving the polisher in a wrong direction may

expose the paint border.

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6. Hand-polish the stamping lines or near weatherstrips.

NOTE: Machine polishing may remove too much paint from

stamping lines, so hand polish these areas.

7. Apply more compound for finessing. Move it in a horizontal

direction for the final polishing.

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Paint Repair - Primer-Surfacer Application on New Parts

1. Primer-Surfacer Application on New Parts

If you are replacing hood and door panels with

brand new parts

1. Dry sand the panel with a double action sander and P320
sandpaper. Manually sand using a sandpaper or a scuffing
pad where the sander cannot access.

2. Degrease and clean after air blowing away any debris.

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3. Spray the primer-surfacer (mist coat to form a thin layer)
over the whole panel and inspect for any lifting or other
defects.

4. Allow sufficient flash time.

5. Applying primer-surfacer to the entire surface, making sure

the texture and appearance are even.

6. Sand off the primer-surfacer coating.

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - 5S (Organization of Work Environment)

1. 5S (Organization of work environment)

5S means:
Sort (Seiri)
Straighten (Seiton)
Shine (Seisou)
Standardize (Seiketsu)
Sustain (Sitsuke)

Use of the 5S process is required to build a safe and

comfortable working environment. It also promotes efficient
and smooth workflow:
Sort (Seiri): Sort out what is necessary and unnecessary.
Remove or clean up unnecessary items.
Straighten (Seiton): Organize the items so they can be

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accessed and used immediately when needed.
Shine (Seisou): Keep your work environment clean at all
times.
Standardize (Seiketsu): Maintain organized and clean
working conditions at all times.
Sustain (Sitsuke): Enforce the above rules for all work
areas.

Building a standardized and clean work environment

－
contributes directly to a highly efficient workflow. In
addition, it provides a positive impression to customers
and helps generate repeat business.
It is very important to comply with the rules and
－
common sense in order to cultivate healthy and
respectful business and work relationships.

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Dust and Fumes

1. Dust and Fumes

Size of dust Dust:

Tiny particles generated during grinding and welding

processes are commonly called dust.
Dust can enter into the lungs and may cause respiratory
disorders such as Pneumoconiosis.

Pneumoconiosis is classified as an occupational lung disease.

It is a restrictive lung disease caused by long term inhalation of
dust particles.

Protection Equipment: Always wear a respirator or dust mask

approved for the materials you are working with:

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Although the size of dust particles may differ depending on
the material, those sized 0.1 to 5μm generally end up in the
lungs most frequently.
Most dust is inhaled during breathing.

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Fire and Explosion Risks

1. Fire and Explosion Risks

Organic Solvents:
Vapors created by organic solvents are generally heavier than
air. They generally sink to floor level and stagnate in recessed
areas. Organic solvents are generally considered as a
hazardous materials, so extra caution is required during
storage and handling.

The symbols at left on packaging indicate that the chemical

contained inside is Flammable (will ignite and burn readily) or
an Oxidizer (may generally by yielding oxygen, cause or
enhance the combustion of other materials):
Most of the paint used for automobile refinishing is
flammable.
Hardening agents (catalysts) used with body fillers and
Example of ventilation system fiberglass may be flammable, an oxidizer, and also

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generate heat during curing.

Ventilation systems should be installed at the

lowest point on the shop floor for thorough vapor
removal.
Keep lids on containers of organic solvents such
as paint and reducers.
Follow established precautions for flammable
material storage and dispensing, such grounding
containers to prevent static discharge.

Keep lids on containers of chemicals such as paint and

reducers or thinners

Grounded flammable material container

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Organic Solvent Toxicity

1. Organic Solvent Toxicity

Toxic Effects of Organic Solvents

Organic solvents may enter the human body by inhalation of

the vapors, or direct skin contact. They tend to concentrate in
organs with high amounts of fat, such as the liver. Depending
on the amount and length of exposure, symptoms can become
acute or chronic.
The main symptoms are shown below:
Skin rash
Respiratory (breathing) difficulty
Mental confusion
Dizziness, anemia etc. (blood generation stops)
Symptoms of poisoning (acute, chronic)

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Health Hazards Associated With Solvent
Exposure:

Toxicity to the nervous system

Reproductive system damage
Liver and kidney damage, respiratory impairment, cancer,
and dermatitis

Precautions for Isocyanate Group (-NCO)

Compounds:

Hardeners used with two-component urethane paints

contain isocyanate compounds.
Health effects of isocyanate exposure include: irritation of
skin and mucous membranes, chest tightness, and difficulty
breathing.
Isocyanates include compounds also classified as potential
human carcinogens and known to cause cancer in animals.

Always wear a respirator, protective clothing, and gloves

designed and approved for use with isocyanates. When
working with chemicals containing these compounds.
If you experience any of the above symptoms, stop using
isocyanate compounds immediately and seek medical
attention.

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - Personal Safety Equipment

1. Personal Safety Equipment

Work uniform, Dustproof work wear It is important to wear protection equipment for your safety and
health. It also is important to wear appropriate equipment
according to the operation and tasks.

Purpose of work uniform:

Prevention of injuries and protection of customers’ vehicles
from external damages.

Purpose of dust proof work wear:

Prevents absorption of organic solvents through the skin.

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Cap Prevention of head injuries.

Ear plugs Protect ears from excessive noise levels during equipment
operation.

Safety glasses Protects eyes from air-borne dust, dispersed liquid, organic

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solvent gas and paint mist.

Dust mask Protects lungs from dust inhalation during sanding.

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Respirator Prevents inhalation of toxic solvents and dust during painting.

Cotton work gloves Protect hands during general body & paint repair operations.

Solvent gloves Prevent absorption of organic solvents through the skin.

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Safety shoes (Static electricity free shoes) Protect toes from falling heavy objects.

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Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - What is an MSDS? 3695 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Paint Repair - Safety and Cleanliness - What is an MSDS?

1. What is an MSDS?

MSDS stands for ‘‘Material Safety Data Sheet’’. It is intended

to provide workers and emergency personnel with procedures
for handling or working with that substance in a safe manner.

Always review the MSDS before using any chemical so you

know how to safely use it and what to do in case of a problem
such as a spill occurs.

Information Included In a Typical MSDS:

Material name and contents volume

Physical data (melting point, boiling point, flash point, etc.)
Toxicity

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Health effects
First aid
Reactivity
Storage requirements
Disposal
Protective equipment
Spill-handling procedures

Note that MSDS formats can vary from source to source within
a country depending on national requirements.

This mark indicates a toxic substance. Do not inhale or take

internally and avoid direct skin contact.

This mark indicates a substance is oxidizer and may easily

react with other products, generally by yielding oxygen, and
cause or enhance the combustion of other materials.

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This mark indicates a flammable product that will ignite at

relatively low temperatures, such as room temperature.

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Paint Repair - Surface Preparation (Featheredge)

1. Surface Preparation (Featheredge)

Create a reference featheredge surface on the old paint

layer.
NOTE: The featheredge quality greatly affects the final
repair results.
Using a double action sander, featheredge the area to
match the paint thickness of the damaged and surrounding
areas.

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For Shallow Paint Damage

Featheredge with a double action sander and P240

sandpaper.

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For Extensive Paint Damage

1. Remove the paint layers using a single action sander with

P60 to P80 sandpaper.

2. Form a reference surface using double action sander with

P80 sandpaper.

3. Featheredge using double action sander with P80 to P120

sandpaper.

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Paint Repair - Topcoat Drying

1. Topcoat Drying

1. Allow sufficient set-up time:

After painting, leave the surface as is for about 10 to 20
minutes, in order to let the solvent evaporate and prevent
defects during forced drying.

NOTE: Check the paint manufacturer‘s instructions

because set-up time changes according to ambient
temperature and paint layer thickness.

2. Force Drying Topcoat:

Force dry the surface for approximately 30 to 40

minutes at a temperature of 140 °F (60 °C).
Always refer to the paint manufactures' instructions for

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the appropriate drying time.

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Paint Repair - Topcoating Information

For each process, refer to the corresponding basic process.

1. Partial Repair

Spot Gradation Coating

Using a technique of gradation, match the color and luster with

those of the surrounding paint surface.

In Case of Solid Color

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1. Light coat and fix the color.

2. Finish coat.

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3. Gradation.

4. Dry.

Block Gradation Coating

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Provides a gradation effect to the enamel base area before
applying clearcoat to each panel (block). It is effective for dark
solid colors to help prevent color fading.

In Case of Solid Color

1. Fixing the enamel base color.

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2. Remove unevenness and give gradation to the enamel

base.

3. Light coat with clear.

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4. Finish with clear.
The same area as the light coat.

5. Dry.

In Case of Metallic Color

1. Apply a light coat of enamel base color.

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2. Finish applying the enamel base color.

3. Remove any unevenness in the enamel base.

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4. Light coat with clear.

5. Finish with clear.

6. Dry.

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Paint Repair - Topcoating Preparation

1. Topcoating Preparation

Scuffing is done to increase adhesion of the old paint layer to

the new topcoat.

When Block Painting or Overall Painting

(Overall Recoloring):

Sand the topcoated area using a double action sander with

P400 sandpaper.
Manually sand with P600 to P800 sandpaper where the
sander cannot access. Be careful not to miss any spots.
Sand only in one direction so that sanding scratches are
not as noticeable.

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When Gradation Painting:

Scuff off the old paint layer of the primer-surfacer coating

area with some extra margin so that scuffed area is a little
wider than the gradation border.
For a light solid colored surface, sand with an intermediate
compound, or with P1500 wet-or-dry sandpaper.
For a metallic, pearl, or deep solid colored surface, sand
with a fine compound or with P1500 wet-or-dry sandpaper.
After scuffing the old paint layer, mask it for topcoating.

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1. Transfer and Cleaning of Vehicle:

Clean any dust and dirt in the paint both first and wet the
floor with water. Then transfer the vehicle into the paint
booth.

2. Air Blow Cleaning and Degreasing of Coating Surface:

Degrease and clean the surface, check the masking

paper and coating surface for any lifting or peeling. Use

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a compressed air blow gun to thoroughly remove all
dust and dirt from the gaps between parts and panels.
Just before topcoating, wipe the entire coating surface
with a tack cloth. Be careful not to apply too much
pressure against the surface or the cloth may leave
varnish residue on the surface.

NOTE: Do not touch the degreased surface with your bare

hands.

3. Wear safety protection and clean work wear to avoid dust

and dirt adhering to the surfaces being painted.

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4. Paint Mixing:

Mixing Hardener and Additive.

NOTE: Follow the manufacturers' instructions for
correctly mixing paint.
Mixing Paint:

－ Mix the paint, hardener, and paint reducer/thinner

to the correct ratio according to the paint
manufacturer’s instructions using a microcomputer
scale. The amount of hardener must absolutely be
correct or it will cause defects after topcoating. The
use of a digital measuring instrument is widely
used for color mixing.

－ It is important to select the appropriate paint

reducer/thinner depending upon the ambient
conditions.

Example: Use of Paint Reducer/Thinner by Temperature

Type of Paint Temperature
Thinner (reference)
Ultra quick drying 50 °F (10 °C) or

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type (very cold lower
season)
Quick drying type 50－59 °F (10－15
(cold season) °C)
Normal type About 68 °F (20 °C)
(warm/cool season)
Slow drying type (hot 77－95 °F (25－35
season) °C)
Ultra slow drying type 95 °F or higher (35
(very hot season) °C) or higher

5. Mix the hardener and paint reducer/thinner thoroughly with

the paint, filter it with a strainer, and pour it into the spray
gun.

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Paint Repair - Water-Based Topcoat Application 3788 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Paint Repair - Water-Based Topcoat Application

1. Water-Based Topcoat Application

1. Preparation of Water-Based Topcoats:

Mixing Paint and Paint Reducer/Thinner:

Stir the paint thoroughly before mixing colors.
Combine the primary colors and adjust with a paint reducer/thinner.

NOTE:
The viscosity of water-based paint is adjusted by adding reducer or paint thinner exclusively for the water-based paint.
There are several types of reducer; such as standard type and slow-dry type. Select the most appropriate type depending
upon the ambient conditions and accurately measure the required amount.
When too much reducer/thinner is added, coverage capability is reduced. Selecting the wrong type of reducer/thinner,
greatly increases drying time, slowing your work efficiency. Confirm the product spec information issued by the paint
manufacturer.

Coating Condition

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NOTE: The setting of your spray gun has significant impact on the finish quality. Make sure to apply the correct settings after
confirming the production spec information issued by the paint manufacturer.

Settings for Low Pressure Spray Gun (Example):

Air Pressure
Block Paint: 130－200 kPa (1.3－2.0 bar, 20－30 psi)
Gradation Paint: 150－180 kPa (1.5－1.8 bar, 22－26 psi)
Removal of Unevenness: 130－150 kPa (1.3－1.5 bar, 18－22 psi)
Discharge Rate: Open 3 to 3.5 turns from full close
Pattern: Open 3/4 turn from full close
Spray Distance: 15－20 cm (6－8 in)
The setting value will change depending on the size or shape of the coating surfaces.

2. Sanding and Degreasing before Topcoating:

Scuff with P600 to P800 sandpaper.

Degreasing should be done in two steps; one with solvent type degreaser and another with water-based type degreaser.

3. Water-Based Color Basecoating:

‐1. Apply medium coat so that the entire surface will be lustered.

NOTE: Apply in thin coats or the water won’t be able to escape from the paint film, reducing your work efficiency. In
addition, thickly applied paint layers may become whitish.

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‐2. Dry the color basecoat.

After allowing sufficient flash time, use a portable air blower/heat gun to completely remove water content from the paint
layer until it has a flat appearance.

NOTE: Refer to the paint manufacturers’ instruction for the appropriate flash time and drying temperature.

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NOTE: Flash time can be greatly impacted by the ambient humidity.

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Comparison of Flash Time (Example):

Conditions (in paint booth for water-based paint)

Coating Surface: Door Panel

Color: Silver Metallic
Dilution Rate: 20%
Coating Condition: Block Coating
Ambient Conditions: Temperature 70 °F (21 °C)/Humidity 60% RH

No. Drying Location Flash Time

1 Below the booth fan 8 min 41 sec
2 Away from the booth fan 10 min 15 sec
3 Below the booth fan 3 min 35 sec
with air blower
Same as above 2 min 10 sec
conditions 30% RH
humidity

‐3. Repeat the processes of -1. and -2. (coating and drying) and layer the color base to cover the surface completely.

NOTE:

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Normally spray 1 to 2 times to cover the surface.
Gradually widen the coating area at each layer when applying gradation coating.
When foreign substances adhere to the surface, dry sand with a sandpaper of P1000 or higher after complete dry. Do
not wet sand.

‐4. Remove unevenness.

Color unevenness rarely occurs, so apply as needed.

NOTE:

When removing unevenness, place the spray gun a little further away from the surface being painted and spray with a
lightly lower pressure.
Apply light coat for gradation coating.
Confirm the paint manufacturers' instructions. Some paint may require use of exclusive paint reducer/thinner for the
gradation paint.

4. Drying Topcoated Layer:

Allow sufficient set-up time and let the color base completely dry.

5. Clearcoating:

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Generally apply two coats, allowing it to match the adjoining panel’s surface quality.

NOTE: After the first light coat, allow flash time and wet coat (finishing).

6. Drying Clear:
Allow sufficient set-up time before force-drying.

NOTE: Confirm the paint manufacturers' instructions for the appropriate setting time and drying temperature.

7. Polishing.

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Paint Repair Equipment - Air Compressor

1. Air Compressor

The air compressor is one of the most important pieces of equipment used in paint repair.
An air compressor is a machine that squeezes air and raises its pressure, enabling you to use spray guns and other air powered
tools.
Select the compressor type to meet your shop's requirements. Air compressors are classified as follows:

Number of Compression Stages

Stages Single Stage Pressure Dual Stage Pressure
Application Use when compressed air consumption is When air pressures exceeding 980 kPa (10
comparatively small. kgf/cm2, 142 psi) are constantly required. Also
best when constantly using multiple high
consumption air tools, or when air supply pipes
are very long.

Control Method

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Method Start/Stop Load/Unload
Operation Intermittent Operation Continuous Operation
Feature The motor shuts off when the air pressure Unloader valves allow no-load compressor
exceeds its specified value, and it resumes operation when the air pressure exceeds a
its operation automatically when the prescribed level. The compressor begins
pressure drops below the cut-in pressure. developing air pressure when the air
This is suitable for applications where a pressure drops below the cut-in pressure.
single operator operates an air toll This is suitable for continuous and
repeatedly with the air pressure ranging simultaneous use of several air tools with
from 785－980 kPa (7－10 kgf/cm2, the air pressures ranging from 490－686
114－142 psi). kPa (5－7 kgf/cm2, 71－100 psi).

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Compressor Installation Location:

Should be located on a level floor and protected from rain
or other water sources. The location should also have
adequate ventilation and avoid excessive humidity and
dust.
The location’s temperature should remain under 104 °F (40
°C), even during the hottest weather. Direct sunlight should
be avoided.
There should be enough space for maintenance and
inspection. Maintain a distance of 30 cm (12 in), or more,
from the wall.
If the compressor is located inside the workshop, it must be
an explosion-proof type to prevent fire and explosion
hazards.

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Inspection of Compressor: Daily Check
Oil Level Check
Open drain valve to remove water from tank
Especially when using dual-component polyurethane resin
coatings, you may need to open up the drain valve and
drain the water and oil inside the tank more often because
the hardener will react with water inside reducing the paint
film’s performance.

Monthly Check:
Clean intake air filers
Check safety valve operation
Check the drive belt tension

Monthly Check:
Change compressor oil

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Paint Repair Equipment - Air Pipes and Equipment

1. Air Pipes and Equipment

Obsee
vr h
t e foloiw ngs h
w en uoy ina
ts l air pie
p s in h
t e krow h
s ,po ro conect otsl ot air hoe
s s.

1. Air Preuse
r Drpo:
The a ms ler h t e ine
n r diameet r fo h
t e air ip e
p ro hoe
s ,h
t e lag
r er h
t e pree
rus drpo and h
t e oe
rp r h
t ea
w e
t re
s paa
r it ng
capabiliyt iw l be. Use lag r er diamee t r air pie
p s and hoe
s sh
w enee
v r ispo ble.

2. Water Removal:
All coe rpm e s d air coa nt ins a w e
t r which cod n ene
s s inot drlpoest as h
t e air colo.s Usig
n aa
rps y gun iw h
t tuo a a
w e
t r
e
s paa r rot iw l cause a p int defects and oips ble equie mp tn damage. Ina
ts l a
w e
t re
s paa
r srot no air lines e
su d for a
rps y gu.sn
Alos lse
po h t e air pulsy ip pe snur lis ghtly ot allwo a
w e
t r drainage.

Shop Compressed Air Pipe Layout Example

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Paint Repair Equipment - Other Air Handling Equipment

1. Other Air Handling Equipment

Air Dryer (Refrigerated Type):

Uses refrigeration equipment and heat exchangers to
reduce the temperature of the hot air discharged the
compressor.
By reducing the compressed air’s temperature significantly
below ambient, the moisture it contains is condensed and
removed.

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Air Separator:
The air separator removes moisture, oil and dirt from the
compressed air by applying the cyclone motion of the
built-in deflector.
The air filter is installed between the air dryer and air
pressure regulator. It is designed to remove even the very
small droplets or mist of contaminants from the cooled
compressed air.

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Air Pressure Regulator:

Air pressure regulators are adjustable to drop the shop air
pressure to a working pressure for spray gun or other air
tool use.
The built-in air filer can remove water, oil and dirt from
compressed air.
Regulators are positioned at end of an air pipe. An air hose
generally connects directly to the regulator
Check and drain the regulator daily.

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Paint Repair Equipment - Other Paint Drying Equipment

1. Other Paint Drying Equipment

Exhaust Hood

When making colorimetric plates for tinting or paint matching,

a small exhaust hood will be required. This is also helps keep
the painting area clean.

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Colorimetric Plate Drying Device

When tinting or matching colors, several fully dried colorimetric

plates are needed. In order to reduce the drying time, a small
sized drying device will be necessary for the colorimetric
plates.

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Paint Repair Equipment - Paint Booth

1. Paint Booth

Spray coating application generates considerable paint overspray mist and solvent vapors. These can be a health and safety
issue, cause various paint defects, and pollute the environment. Therefore, paint and other coatings should only be applied in a
specially designed paint booth.
Paint Booth Function:
The forced ventilation system help protect painters from inhaling paint mist and hazardous organic solvent vapors.
The intake air filters provide clean air to protect the surface being painted from dirt and dust.
Exhaust air filters collect paint mist and prevent it's release into the shop and environment.

Paint Booth Types:

Natural Intake/Forced Exhaust Type
Force ventilates only the exhaust side, so the inside of the booth remains at the ambient air pressure. This booth type tends
to allow more dust and dirt entry through doors and small openings.
Forced Intake/Forced Exhaust Type (Push Pull Type)
Force ventilates both intake and exhaust sides, so the inside of the booth is pressurized slightly above ambient. Because of
this pressure differential, most dust and dirt are prevented from entering the booth.

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Structure of Push Pull Type Paint Booth

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Paint Repair Equipment - Paint Drying Tools & Equipment 3738 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Paint Repair Equipment - Paint Drying Tools & Equipment

1. Paint Drying Tools & Equipment

Force drying paint and other coatings with heat helps save
time, provides better coating performance, etc. than
ambient temperature drying methods.
There are three types of heat transfer: thermal conduction,
convection, and radiation. Convection and radiation of hot
air and infrared rays are the most common drying methods
for paint and coatings.
Drying equipment should be chosen based on the repair
requirements. A portable type dryer is generally used for
paint repair. Hot-air blowers are usually used for complete
paint jobs.

Near-Infrared Drying
This uses infrared bulbs as its heat reservoir. They are
portable, adjustable, and widely used.

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Far-Infrared Drying
This equipment works by the radiant heating of far-infrared
radiation from the tube and panel heated by gas or electricity.

Hot Air Type Drying Oven:

This enclosure is designed to use forced hot air to dry the
paint film.
Heat is created by burning fuel or consuming electricity.
Generally, forced air drying temperatures should be kept at
or below 140 °F (60 °C).
Some Baked finishes require higher curing temperatures of
around 212－302 °F (100－150 °C).
However, when using forced air drying during paint repair, it
is recommended to dry at the lower 140 °F (60 °C)
temperature to avoid damaging batteries and electrical
components.

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Direct Hot Air Oven

High thermal efficiency:
Compact and inexpensive.
Quick heat-up time.
By-products of combustion may cause paint defects.

Indirect Hot Air Oven

A burner heats a heat exchanger that is circulating air through
the oven:
Low fire or explosion risk, flame is isolated from air

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circulating in oven.
No potential contamination by combustion by-products.
Low thermal efficiency.
Longer heat-up time.
Equipment is large and expensive.

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Paint Repair Tools - Other Tools and Equipment

1. Other Tools and Equipment

File, Sanding Block

Use to manually surface or sand body filler/putty and primer-

surfacer coating.

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Scoops and spreaders

Used for building body filler/putty layers on dents, scratches

and holes. Many different sizes and materials. Select the one
most suitable for the surface characteristics (flat or curved)
and the size of application surface.

Body Filler/Putty Mixing Board

Used to mix body filler/putty and hardener.

Constructed of metal, plastic, and cardboard (disposable).

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Waste Cloth (Wiping Cloth):

Used but well washed cloth is suitable for paint repairs.

New cloths tend to retain oils and other substances, so they
are not effective for absorbing or wiping up fluids.
Paper absorption twice its weight of water and oil, and is
highly effective for wiping up fluids.

Paint Strainer

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Used to filter dust and foreign substances from paint before
application.

Tack Cloth

Cloth impregnated with high viscosity varnish. Used for

removing dirt, dust, and sand from a surface before painting.

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Masking Material: (Refer to Masking Equipment

and Material)

Refer to masking tools and materials:

Masking tape
Masking paper
Other covers for masking

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Tools for Color Mixing

Refer to color mixing tools and equipment.

Heavy Duty Scuffing Pad

Used for scuffing/polishing complex panel shapes where

sander and sandpaper cannot be properly used. Abrasive
particles are bonded to synthetic fiber, so they are very water
resistant.

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Paint Repair Tools - Sanding and Polishing Tools

1. Sanding and Polishing Tools

Sander:

Generally used for removing rust from an old paint layer,

basecoat layer, or steel plate.
Sandpaper is mounted on the back-plate which circulates
and reciprocates for abrasion.
Available in both electric and air powered types.

Sander Types and Usage

Disc Sander:
Removal of old paint layers
Removal of rust from steel plate

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Orbital Sander:
Rough sanding of metal filer/putty, polyester body filler/putty
Sanding of primer-surfacer, old pant layers

Dual-Action (DA) Sander:

Sanding of metal filler/putty, polyester body filler/putty,
surfacing
Feather-edge sanding
Sanding of primer-surfacer, old paint layers

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Straight-Line Sander:
Sanding of metal filler/putty, polyester body filler/putty,
surfacing

Polisher:

Polishers are used to finish topcoat paint film for sanding

and polishing work.
Various kinds of buffing pads can be attached to the
polisher’s pad.

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Available in both electric and air powered types.

Kinds of Buffs and Usage

Towel Buff:
Suitable for buffing rough and medium compounds.
Buffing power is relatively strong.

Wool Buff:
Suitable for buffing fine or extremely fine polishing compounds.

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Sponge Buff:
Suitable for buffing ultra fine particle polishing compounds for
final finish.

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Paint Repair Tools - Sandpaper 3741 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Paint Repair Tools - Sandpaper

1. Sandpaper

Sandpaper is paper or cloth that has a coating of abrasives.

There are a number of types and grits available.
Sandpaper also comes in wet and dry types and should be
applied accordingly based on the purpose. Generally, dry
sanding is used on metal and polyester body filler/putty.
Wet sanding is used on primer- surfacer and topcoats.
Sandpaper is made for use with both sanding blocks and
disc-type sanders.
The grit size of sandpaper is defined as (P) and sanding
capability differs based on this value. The smaller the (P)
value is, the larger the grit size and the stronger the
sanding power.
Different Uses of Sandpapers
For Hand For Usage
Sand Machine

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Sand
P16－P40 Separation
of old paint
film/Rough
sanding for
rust removal
P60－P80 P60－P80 Metal putty
sanding
P80－P120 P80－P120 Polyester
putty
sanding
P320－P800 P320－P600 Primer-
surfacer
sanding
P1000－P1200 Contaminant
removal
before
polishing
with
compound
P1200－P2000 Color
sanding and
clearcoat
dust removal

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Structure and Material

Abrasive material:
Aluminum oxide and silicon carbide are the main abrasive
types used.
Aluminum oxide is brown or white and suitable for polishing
the hard film surfaces with a high abrasive capability.
Silicon carbide is black. It is suitable for polishing soft film
surfaces.

Backing

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Sandpaper is abrasive grains are adhered to backing of paper,
cloth, wet-or-dry paper, fiber, etc. The grit size, the thickness of
the backing and grain material are usually indicated on the
backing.

Grit Adhesive Methods:

There are two kinds of adhesives; open and closed coat.

Open coat is mainly used for dry sanding because the grit
distance is far apart to resist clogging.
Closed coat is used for wet sanding because the grit is
more densely distributed.

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Paint Storage Problems - Paint Gelling (Increased Viscosity)

1. Paint Gelling (Increased Viscosity)

Paint loses fluidity causing gelled consistency (increased

viscosity).
Paint partially or entirely reacts and hardens, leading to
gelled consistency.

CAUSES:
Prolonged storage in excessive temperatures.
Paint can (container) not sealed securely, allowing the paint
solvent to evaporate and humidity to enter the can.
Paint accidentally mixed with a different paint type, or
hardener, before storage.
Paint diluted with improper paint reducer/thinner.

PREVENTION:
Securely seal the paint can (container) with the lid, and

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store it in a dark, cool place, 68 °F (20 °C) or below.
Avoid mixing the paint with different types of paint, hardener
and improper paint reducer/thinner.

ACTIONS:
Dispose of the paint according to local regulations.

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Paint Storage Problems - Paint Separation

1. Paint Separation

Paint and pigment separate into two parts during storage,

resulting in a clear portion of paint in the upper part of the can.

CAUSES:
Prolonged storage in excessive temperatures.
Low paint viscosity.
Paint accidentally mixed with a different paint type.

PREVENTION:
Store the paint in a dark, cool place, 68 °F (20 °C) or below.
If it is stored for a prolonged period, invert the can
occasionally.
Do not return paint diluted with reducer/thinner to the

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original can.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Stir up the paint thoroughly before reuse.

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Paint Storage Problems - Paint Skinning

1. Paint Skinning

A ‘‘skin’’ layer appears on top of the paint in a container.

Most common on air-dry type paints. Paint surface hardens
with exposure to oxygen in the air.

CAUSES:
Paint can (container) not sealed with the lid securely.
Prolonged storage in excessive temperatures.
Paint volume in the can decreased, allowing more space for
trapped air (air-dry type).

PREVENTION:
Securely seal the paint can (container) with the lid and store it
in a dark, cool place, 68 °F (20 °C) or below.

CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:

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Dispose of the paint according to local regulations.

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Paint Storage Problems - Sedimentation (Caking)

1. Sedimentation (Caking)

Paint pigment is settled in the bottom of the can.

Hard deposit: Hard caking.
Soft deposit: Soft caking.

CAUSES:
Excessive storage temperatures.
Pigment’s specific gravity too high.
Excessive paint pigment in proportion to other components.
Low paint viscosity.

PREVENTION:
Store the paint in a dark, cool place, 68 °F (20 °C) or below.
If it is stored for a prolonged period, invert the can

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occasionally.
Do not store the reducer/thinner-diluted paint for a
prolonged period. Stir it thoroughly to remix before reuse.

ACTIONS:
Dispose the hard deposit (hard caking). If the deposit is soft
(soft caking), stir it up thoroughly to restore a consistent
viscosity before reuse.

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Panel Reforming Tools 3682 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Panel Reforming Tools

1. Panel Reforming Tools

Washer or Stud Welding Machine:

Used to pull out damaged panels by attaching metal

washers or studs.
Allows working the panel from the outside when the back
side of the damage is not accessible.
Drawing work is possible with the use of carbon electrode.

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Example of use

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Hammers:

Leveling Hammer
Used with a dolly and spoon for panel reforming.

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Pick Hammer
Used with a dolly and spoon for panel reforming.

Rough Pulling out Hammer

Used with a body/frame correction machine and/or a
porto-power for rough repairs. Also can be used to remove
outer panels.

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Wooden Hammer
Used for reforming steel using a drawing process or for
reforming a steel panel without elongating it.

Dolly:

Used with a hammer to reform panels.

Choose the most appropriate one according to the shape of
the panel.

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Spoon:

Used where a dolly cannot be used because of a space

limitations.
Very durable because of it’s special material construction.
Select the most appropriate one according to the shape of
the panel.

Body/Dent Puller (Slide Hammer):

Used to pull-out panels with minor damage.

Used for a wide range of applications by the combination of

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attachments and slide hammers.

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Plastic Parts Paint Repair - External Plastic Parts Examples

1. External Plastic Parts Examples

Because plastic parts are extensively used for exterior parts on vehicles, they may also require paint repairs like other steel
body parts.
The paint repair method and used materials are different depending upon the construction material of the plastic parts.
In order to confirm the plastic material type, refer to the code stamped on the rear surface of the part, or the Service Manual.
Understand the characteristics of the plastic materials before beginning paint repairs.

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Plastic Parts Paint Repair - Plastic Part Types and Characteristics

1. Plastic Part Types and Characteristics

Before repairing plastic parts, confirm the temperature for forced (heated) drying and solvent resistance.
Refer to the chart below to avoid heat or solvent damage to plastic parts.

Standard Name Heat Solvent Resistance Note

Plastic Resistance
Parts Temperature
Symbol °F (°C)

AAS Acrylonitrile acrylic 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
styrene amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

ABS Acrylonitrile butadiene 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
styrene amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG

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(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

AES Acrylonitrile ethylene 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
styrene amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

AEPDS Acrylonitrile/ethylene 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
propylene diene styrene amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

AS Sthylene-acrylonitrile 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic

copolymer amount of alcohol, solvent such as
gasoline OK gasoline and alcohol
NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

ASA Acrylonitrile styrene 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
acrylate amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

CAB Cellulose acetate 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
butylate amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

EPDM Ethylene propylene 176 (80) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
diene terpolymer amount of alcohol OK as gasoline NG
(to wipe off for aromatic substance
degreasing etc.) NG.

NG= No Good - Do not use

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Standard Name Heat Solvent Resistance Note

Plastic Resistance
Parts Temperature
Symbol °F (°C)

E/VAC Ethylene-vinyl acetate 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic
amount of alcohol, solvent such as
gasoline OK gasoline and alcohol
NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

PA Polyamide 176 (80) Alcohol, gasoline OK Buttery fluid (sulfuric

acid) NG.

PBT Polybutylene 320 (160) Alcohol, gasoline OK Almost all solvent OK.
terephthalate

PC Polycarbonate plastics 248 (120) Short time, a small Organic solvent such
amount of alcohol OK as brake fluid, wax,
wax remover and
gasoline NG.

PE Polyethylene 176 (80) Alcohol, gasoline OK Almost all solvent OK.

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PF Phenol form aldehyde 176 (80) Very short time, a Dipping in organic
small alcohol OK (to solvent such as
wipe off for degreasing gasoline and alcohol
etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic
(acryl) amount of alcohol OK solvent such as
(to wipe off for gasoline and alcohol
degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.
Thoroughly wash off
remover.

POM Polyoxymethylene 212 (100) Alcohol, gasoline OK Almost all solvent OK.
polyacetal

PP Polypropylene 176 (80) Alcohol, gasoline OK Almost all solvent OK.

PPE Polypropylene oxide 212 (100) Short time, a small Dipping in organic
amount of alcohol OK solvent such as
gasoline and alcohol
NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

PS Polystyrene (styrol) 140 (60) Short time, a small Dipping in organic

amount of alcohol OK solvent such as
gasoline and alcohol
NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

NG= No Good - Do not use

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Standard Name Heat Solvent Resistance Note

Plastic Resistance
Parts Temperature
Symbol °F (°C)

PUR Thermosetting 176 (80) Very short time, a Dipping in organic

polyurethane small amount of solvent such as
alcohol OK (to wipe off gasoline and alcohol
for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

PVC Polyvinyl chloride 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic
amount of alcohol, solvent such as
gasoline OK (to wipe gasoline and alcohol
off for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.

SMC Sheet molding 356 (180) Alcohol, gasoline OK Almost all solvent OK.
compound

TPE Thermoplastic polyester 176 (80) Alcohol OK, gasoline Dipping in organic
elastomer for a short period of solvent such as
time OK (to wipe off gasoline and alcohol

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for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.
Thoroughly wash off
remover.

TPO Thermoplastic 176 (80) Alcohol OK, gasoline Dipping in organic

olefin/elastomer for a short period of solvent such as
time OK (to wipe off gasoline and alcohol
for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.
Thoroughly wash off
remover.

TPS Thermoplastic styrene 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic
elastomer amount of alcohol, solvent such as
gasoline OK (to wipe gasoline and alcohol
off for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.
Thoroughly wash off
remover.

TPU Thermoplastic/ 176 (80) Short time, a small Dipping in organic

urethane/elastomer amount of alcohol, solvent such as
gasoline OK (to wipe gasoline and alcohol
off for degreasing etc.) NG, contact with
organic solvent NG.
Thoroughly wash off
remover.

UP Polyester 230 (110) Alcohol, gasoline OK Alkali NG.

(to wipe off for
degreasing etc.)

NG= No Good - Do not use

Heating plastic parts to temperatures at or above the ‘‘Heat resistance temperature’’ may deform them.
For two plastic parts constructed of the same material, heat and solvent resistance may differ based on the polymerization.

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Plastic Parts Paint Repair - Repair Processes

Many plastic parts are used for exterior parts of a vehicle. In addition to sheet metal repairs, it is sometimes necessary to
repair plastic parts. The major large plastic parts include: bumpers, side sill garnishes, and spoilers. They may be constructed
of PP, ABS, PC, or nylon-polyester-based materials. In many damage situations, plastic part replacement is preferred over
repair.

Before attempting repairs, identify the plastic part’s construction and select the most appropriate repair materials.
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for the repair materials.
Be careful to avoid part deformation and damage during forced-dry with heat during the repair process.

1. PP (Polypropylene) Bumper Repair Processes

Example of damage: Scratches and hairlines on PP bumper.

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1. Preparation and cleaning:

Wash the damaged area with water.

Thoroughly clean both the front and rear sides of the
damaged area using a degreaser to remove wax and
oils.

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2. Stand and study raw surface.

Featheredge the damaged area using P80 to P120
sandpaper.
Then degrease the surface.

3. Application of primer.
Apply primer for PP bumper in the damaged area where
filler will be applied.

4. Mix the filler and hardener.

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5. Filler:

Fill in the damaged area using epoxy-type body filler.

Restore the part's original shape by applying sufficient
filler to the damaged area using 2-3 separate thin
coats.

6. Standing and surfacing:

Rough sand with P120 sandpaper first and finish sand

the surface with P180 to P240 sandpaper.
Use the wet sanding method when possible.

7. Refinish the part (base coat/clear coat).

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Refinish Methods - Dip-Type Methods

1. Dip-Type Methods

Painting method where parts are immersed in a paint bath.

This is done either by dipping or electrodeposition. These
processes are best suited for large scale production rather
than repairs.

Dip Coating

Vehicle body parts are coated by dipping them into a tank filled
with paint.

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Electrodeposit Coating

Painting method also known as ED coating, in which electricity

is applied to a tank containing the parts being coated and the
primer or paint. The coat is formed by adhesion of the paint to
the parts through a process called electrocrystallization.
Electrodeposition ensures an even coating thickness, relatively
free of drips and runs because the coating thickness can be
controlled accurately by regulating the electric current. It also
ensures coating in invisible sections and seams.

1. Tank is filled with water-based primer or paint. Parts soak

inside the tank. Connecting the positive charge electrode to
the part charge the tank with the negative electrode.

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2. Electrical current passes between the electrodes and

primer or paint electrically adheres to the surface of the part
because of opposite charges.

NOTE: Electrodeposit coating is normally called ED paint or

primer. It is used to apply the black colored basecoat on
replacement steel body parts.

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Refinish Methods - Spray-Type Methods

1. Spray-Type Methods

Spray painting is a way to apply small particles of paint to

objects by a spray gun with compressed air.

Spray Gun Coating

The same mechanism with as a spray bottle. Compressed air

blows out from outside the paint nozzle and the air at the tip of
nozzle gets pushed away. This creates a vacuum condition
and paint gets suctioned out.
This process atomizes the paint into a mist of tiny particles.
This is the most popular method today.

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Airless Spray Gun Coating

Airless spray gun applies a high pressure to paint which

discharges through a small nozzle. When doing so, air is
forced into the paint to atomize it. Overspray is minimal and
large spray patterns are possible. This method is efficient and
able to handle high viscosity paints.

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Electrostatic Coating

Electrostatic painting is a method based on the principle that

the positive and negative electrical charges attract while like
electrical charges repel each other. The paint is charged
negatively in a high voltage generator while the body is
charged positively as it is grounded. Since paint particles from
the paint applicator are charged negatively, they repel each
other and are atomized. These negatively-charged particles
are attracted by the positively-charged body and adhere to it.

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Removal Tools - Spot Weld Removal Tools

1. Spot Weld Removal Tools

Spot Weld Cutter (Drill Type):

Used with an air drill to remove spot welds.

Makes finishing work easy, because it does not leave any
nuggets on the base material.

Spot Weld Drill:

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Dedicated tool used to remove spot welds.
Some models are specifically designed for cutting spot
welds on high and ultra high strength steel parts.
Maintains pressure and centering on the weld nugget while
cutting.

Spot Weld Cutter Sharpening (Grinding)

Machine:

Used for grinding and sharpening spot weld cutters.

Easily and quickly grinds and sharpens spot weld cutters.

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Repair Overview - Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams

1. Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams

Door reinforcement beams and bumper reinforcement beams, should NEVER be repaired!
The entire door, or bumper beam, must be replaced if they are damaged.

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Repair Overview - High Strength Steel Sheet Welding Overview

1. High Strength Steel Sheet Welding Overview

Welding

Spot welding is the recommended and preferred procedure for the welding for high-strength steel parts same as for a mild steel
plate welding. In areas that cannot be accessed by a spot welder, perform MAG welding as specified in the Replacement
procedures.

Tensile strength and welding method

Welding Method
Tensile Strength
MAG Weld
(MPa) Spot welding
Plug Butt
270 ○ ○ ○
340 ○ ○ ○
440 ○ ○ ○

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590 ○ ○ ○
780 ○ ○ ○
980 ○ ○ ×
1180 ○ ○* ×
1500 ○ ○* ×
*: MAG plug welding is only allowed on these steel grades in selected locations as specified in the
body repair manual. Welding instructions must be followed exactly as specified to ensure adequate
weld strength.
MIG welding/brazing: Metal inert gas welding or brazing where 100% Argon (Ar) shielding gas is used. Argon is inert and
does not react with the molten weld pool or brazing operation.
MAG welding: Metal active gas welding where the shielding gas being used contains a mixture of 80% Argon (Ar) and 20%
Carbon Dioxide (CO2). It is considered active because the CO2 undergoes a limited reaction with the molten weld pool. A
shielding gas mixture of 75% argon (Ar) and 25% carbon dioxide (CO2), is also acceptable.

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Repair Overview - Parts Sectioning (Cut and Joint) Guidelines

1. Parts Sectioning (Cut and Joint) Guidelines

Various high-strength steel materials with different sheet

thicknesses and strengths are applied in many places that vary
by body design in order to increase collision safety
performance, body stiffness and weight reduction. Stiffening
members inside each part (patch, stiffener, etc.) are also
specified in detail.

Follow these guidelines to avoid an unsafe repair:

Avoid sectioning (cut and joint) except for outer panels and
floor panels unless a specific procedure is provided in the
body repair manual. However, depending on the type of the
vehicle damage, steel parts with a tensile strength of 780
MPa or less may be sectioned (cut and joint) under the
following conditions:

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Sectioning must be done in a single-layer area of the
－
part.
Multi-layer internal steel reinforcements and stiffeners
－
must not be cut.
The repair is not in a load bearing area such as
－
engine, transmission, or suspension mounting points.

Replace body structural components such as

reinforcements and other multi-layered steel parts as
assemblies that match the replacement parts configuration.
Refer to section 3 “Replacement” in this manual for any
sectioning opportunities.

NOTE:
For welded parts replacement or sectioning, follow the
procedures specified in this manual.
Do not perform butt welding on the repair parts constructed
of, or containing, steel with a tensile strength of 980 MPa or
greater.

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Repair Overview - Repair Basics

Assuring Repair Quality

The purpose of collision repair is to restore the quality and performance of the vehicle to its pre-loss condition. The four basic
principles below must be assured during collision repairs.
Appearance restoration …………………… exterior finish
Safety assurance …………………… driving performance
Maintaining strength ………………… welding, interfacing
Durability and anti-rust
quality assurance ………………………… rust, corrosion

Protecting Vehicle:
Washing before repair:

Helps identify the damaged area and prevent overlooking any damage. (check also for other scratches and dents
－
outside the repair area).

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－ Reduces the introduction of dirt, dust, and other contaminants into your workshop.

－ Reduces time required to polish and correct errors and contamination after the painting process.

Protecting and storing the removed parts …………………… To avoid damages (scratches), deformation and contamination
Passenger compartment, tires, engine compartment, etc. ………………… Help reduce entry of hidden contamination during
repair and painting. These increase repair time.
Helps prevent weld spatter (sparks) ……………. Possible burns and damage to glass and paint.

Damage Inspection:

Wash the vehicle as it is impossible to properly inspect a dirty vehicle for damage.

Closely inspect the vehicle from all angles to prevent overlooking damaged areas, or degree of damage.
Before beginning collision repairs, compare the repair estimate to the actual vehicle condition. Check the identified repairs and
compare them to the actual damage. Then develop a repair plan.
The general confirmation steps are as follows:
Visual Check:

－ Closely inspect the damaged area from multiple angles so that the dents can be captured more accurately.

－ Also use extra lighting to help identify damage during your inspection for greater accuracy.
Inspect panel alignment and gaps in the damaged and surrounding areas. Also compare them to the undamaged side
－
of the vehicle if possible.

Feel Check:

Gently feel across the damaged surfaces with your fingers and palm to confirm to confirm any unevenness after the
－
vehicle and damaged areas have been thoroughly cleaned.

－ Cloth gloves are recommended to increase touch sensitivity.

－ Feel In addition, touch thoroughly from multiple directions in order to avoid any overlook.

Repair Bench Confirmation:

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－ Confirm the body dimensions using your body and frame measurement equipment.

－ Document primary (directly) damaged areas and secondary (induced) damage.

－ Confirm the original dimensions of the damaged area, then develop a plan to restore the correct measurements.

Handling Removed Parts:

Remove all attached parts in the repair area to make repairs easier.
Pay extra attention to the removed parts not to damage and store them in a protected location.
Confirm that the repair estimate documents any prior damage or missing parts not part of the current repair. Immediately
report any inconsistencies between the vehicle and estimate.
If you damage any parts during removal, report this immediately and order replacements.
To avoid confusion during reassembly, organize the removed fasteners by grouping them per panel or part.

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Repair Overview - Repair Guidelines for High-Strength Steel Parts

1. Repair Guidelines for High-Strength Steel Parts

High strength steel is defined as any steel with a tensile

strength of 340 MPa or higher.
Ultra high strength steel is defined as any steel with a
tensile strength of 980 MPa or higher. If a part is
constructed of, or includes, high-strength steel, observe
the following important guidelines:

Body and Frame Straightening Guidelines

High-strength steel is more rigid and has more memory than

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traditional steel, making it more difficult to straighten. To
prevent further body damage when using frame straightening
equipment, apply pulling force gradually and closely monitor
body dimensions during the straightening process to ensure
the body dimensions are returned to the proper specifications.
High strength steel parts over 590 MPa must not be
straightened. These parts should be replaced with new parts if
damaged.

NOTE: Do not apply heat, such as an oxyacetylene torch, to

any body part during straightening. This may compromise the
internal structure and high-strength steel parts. Any of these
parts that had heat applied to them during straightening MUST
be replaced with new parts. Ignoring these instructions may
significantly reduce occupant protection in any subsequent
collision.

Removing spot welds

Use a spot weld cutter or drill bit designed for high-strength

steel to remove spot weld nuggets from the steel parts being
removed. If the cutting performance of the spot cutter
decreased, grind the spot cutter using a grinder as soon as

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possible. Or change the spot cutter to a new one. Decreased

cutting performance unnecessarily increase cutting time and
generates heat that may compromise the internal structure of
high-strength steel parts.

NOTE: In order to protect the blade of the spot cutter, mark the
center of the spot welding nugget using a center punch and
grind the edge of the nugget to be flat using a belt sander
(about P60) and then begin the cutting work. Apply the specific
cutting oil to protect the blade during the cutting work.

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Repair Overview - Repair Process

1. Repair Process

The degree of damage determines the collision repair workflow.

For minor body damage, the repair process includes: Repairing the damaged part by washer welding or using hammers and
dollies, body filler repairs, and refinishing.
For major body damage, the repair process includes: Body and frame correction, Replacing the damaged panels and frame parts
with new ones, anti-rust treatment, sealing, and refinishing. Plastic parts repair or replacement may also be necessary.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Anti-Rust Treatment (After Painting)

1. Internal Anti-rust Treatment

Internal Anti-rust Treatment:

During collision repairs, body pulling and welding destroy

the e-coat film on inner panels.
This will quickly allow rust to form on those panels.
Thoroughly apply anti-rust agent on inner surfaces in the
repaired areas prevent corrosion.
Always apply anti-rust agents a little beyond the actual
repair areas.
For the basic locations of anti-rust agent application, refer
to the model specific body repair manual:

Apply internal anti-rust agent through part installation

－
holes, inner panel openings, grommet installation

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holes, etc. Apply anti-rust agent liberally until it bleeds
through the panel mating seams.

When applying anti-rust agent to a wide area, use

－
spray equipment specifically designed for anti-rust
agent application and the most appropriate nozzle
(360 degree nozzle, L nozzle, etc.).

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Anti-Rust Treatment (Before Painting)

1. Sealing

To prevent water and dust entry, as well as to prevent rust,

apply sealer where at body panel joints.
As for where sealer should be applied, refer to the model
specific body repair manual or use the corresponding parts
on the opposite side of t the vehicle as a reference:

－ Clean and degrease the sealer application area.

Remove any excess weld-through primer (spot sealer)
using reducer.
Apply primer surfacer and then sealer.

－ The outer panels, engine compartment, and trunk

gutter influence exterior appearance of the vehicle and
must be finished equivalent to their pre-loss condition.

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In installation areas for the taillights and the like, use
－
care to limit the height of the sealer bead to prevent
interference. Use a brush to flatten the sealer bead.

Handle the body sealer material with care and

observe all instructions issued by the sealer
manufacturer.

2. Undercoating

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To prevent chipping damage caused by flying stones, apply

undercoat over the underbody and wheelhouse surfaces.
Refer to the model specific body repair manual for sealer
application locations:

Clean and degrease the undercoating application

－
areas. Apply primer surfacer then undercoat.

－ Use masking tape, where necessary, to prevent

undercoat from being applied to the suspension, drive
train and exhaust related parts, or parts installation
areas.

－ Apply undercoat using only spray equipment designed

for undercoat.

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3. Urethane Foam Repairs

If expandable urethane foam was used in the body instead of

traditional acoustic separators, replace any removed foam
through holes on the inner body panels as directed in the
model specific body repair manual. This is required to reduce
transmission of road noise into the passenger compartment in
specified areas.

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NOTE: When doing paint work, mask the ground wire terminal.
Protect the ground wire mounting hole threads with a spare
bolt (do not use the actual ground bolt) or a commercially
available silicone bolt hole plug.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Basic Work Processes

1. Basic Work Processes

Some collision damage reaches the body’s structural parts, with damage so extensive that core body parts may be bent, twisted
and stressed. Therefore, use of body and frame correction equipment is necessary. Outer panels will also need to be repaired or
replaced.
During major body damage repairs, it is vitally important to measure the entire vehicle body, not just the impact area, to correctly
diagnose dispersed damage. The amount of estimated and actual repair hours is heavily dependent upon correct preliminary
body damage measurements and diagnosis.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Body and Frame Correction For Front Damage

1. Body and Frame Correction For Front Damage

Front damage example: The side bulkhead, front side frame,

and the front wheelhouse are damaged on the left side.
The damper housing and dashboard are damaged. Extended
damage is also seen on the front pillar, front side frame, and
front wheelhouse on the right side. Impact forces were also
dispersed into the roof panel causing distortion there as well.

1. Develop a repair plan:

Pull out the damaged area to restore both right and left
side parts installation points back to near the original
dimensions.
Repair and reform the installation points for the new
replacement parts.
Remove the damaged part (left side) and install a new

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part.

2. Attach the body to the body and frame correction

equipment. Firmly attach the vehicle so it does not move
during the pulling operation.

3. Determine the pulling direction, then pull-out slowly and

gradually. While pulling, repair the joint areas where the
replaced parts are installed. At the same time, reform the
front side frame, front wheelhouse and the damper housing
on the right side.

4. Measure the dimensions and determine the pulled-out

position.
Repeat the pulling operation until each point is back to the
correct position.

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5. Repair the front side frame, front wheelhouse and damper

housing on the right side and bring them back to the correct
position.

6. If the damper housing, dashboard, dashboard upper side

member and front pillar on the left side cannot be fully

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reformed, cut the front side frame and damper housing, and
then pull-out the root of dashboard upper side member and
front side frame.

7. For the front pillar damage, use a porta-power to push it

from inside the passenger compartment while pulling in a
forward direction.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Body and Frame Correction For Rear Damage

1. Body and Frame Correction For Rear Damage

Rear damage example: The rear panel, rear outer panel, rear
floor and rear frame are damaged. the rear frame is bent due
to a concentrated stress.
In the upper body, damage will disperse as far as the rear
wheelhouse, rear inner panel, and rear pillar with distortion
also in the roof panel.

1. Develop a repair plan:

Pull out the damaged area to restore it to near the

original dimensions.
Repair and reform the installation points for the new
replacement parts.
Remove the damaged part (left side) and install a new
part.

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2. Attach the body to the body and frame correction
equipment. Firmly attach the vehicle so it does not move
during the pulling operation.

3. Determine the pulling direction opposite the impact force,

then pull-out slowly and gradually. pull out the rear panel,
rear floor, and the rear frame. While pulling, repair the rear
floor. Do not directly pull on the rear outer panels during
repair.

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4. If it is impossible to pull it out fully, cut the rear panel or rear

floor and restore the damaged area by pulling it directly.

5. Measure the dimensions of rear frame, rear wheelhouse,

rear damper positions after the repair.
Also check the clearances between rear doors and rear out
side panels.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Body and Frame Correction For Side Damage

1. Body and Frame Correction For Side Damage

An example of damages: Due to the side impact, together with

the side sills, the floor is crashed and the center pillar is bent.
The whole body is bent like a boomerang and the wheel base
is shrunk.

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1. Develop a repair plan:

Pull out the damaged area to restore it to near the

original dimensions.
Repair and reform the installation points for the new
replacement parts.
Remove the damaged part (left side) and install a new
part.

2. Attach the body to the body and frame correction

equipment.
Firmly attach the vehicle so it does not move during the
pulling operation.

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3. The most effective way is to pull it out in three directions.

While pulling out the side sill and the center pillar in the
direction (A), opposite to the impact force, pull out the side
sill in the front and rear direction (B) at the same time.
While pulling, repair the floor panel and door opening area.

4. Measure the dimensions and confirm the pulled-out points.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Body and Frame Correction Overview

1. Body and Frame Correction Overview

This work is very important in collision repair. Using body and

frame correction equipment, the deformed area of the wrecked
vehicle is pulled out nearly to the original shape. In order to
complete this work satisfactorily, measurements must be made
correctly before beginning this work.
If the body is not correctly restored to the original dimensions,
the exterior appearance, drivability, steering, handling, and tire
wear will be greatly influenced.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Body Damage Inspection

1. Body Damage Inspection

Check the damaged portion of the vehicle visually and by feel

to estimate the extent of the collision damage.

1. Observe the entire vehicle and count the number of

impacts, evaluate their magnitude and determine the
damage sequence.

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2. Check external damage and deformation
Observe the vehicle from the front, rear, and sides and
check lateral and vertical bends, twists, out-of true lines on
the side view, and body high spots or depressions. Also
check panel deformation away from the impact areas.

3. Check the alignment (fit/finish) of the exterior body parts

Close doors, hood and trunk lid to carefully inspect the gap,
steps and clearance against the adjoining panels, and
check for any striker contact while opening and closing.

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4. Check for damage caused by passengers and cargo:

Inspect for secondary damage caused by crash inertia.

Inspect the damage to steering, instrument panel, seat
and seat belt in the passenger compartment.

Also inspect the for deformation of body panel in the trunk

or cargo area caused shifting cargo.

5. Check the engine compartment:

Check deformation or damaged:

－ Engine mounts.
Transmission mounts and brackets.
－

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－ Contact between auxiliary systems and the body.

－ Wiring harnesses pinching or damage.

Check for deformation in each part of the body and for

sealer cracking or peeling from any welded joints.

6. Check the under body:

Lift the vehicle and check for damage in the suspension

or the sub frame.
Check for leakage of engine oil, coolant, transmission
and brake fluids.
Check for deformation in each part of the body and for
sealer cracking or peeling from any welded joints.

7. Check the vehicle system functions:

Start the engine and check whether any abnormal

vibrations, noise, or contact noise exists.
Operate the clutch, brake pedal, parking brake lever
and the shift lever to check their function. Operate all
electrical lighting and accessory systems to check their
function.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Measuring Dimensions

1. Measuring Dimensions

With reference to the body centerline, measure the major

dimensions of the damaged body with the use of a
measurement equipment. This makes numerical evaluation of
to body damage amount possible. Body dimensions that
influence wheel alignment are particularly important. Visual
inspection alone is not sufficient.

Measurement method:

Diagonal measurements (X measurements)

Measure using the body measuring dimensions in the
model specific body repair manual (Actual measurement
figures)
Measurements with the use of a frame repair chart (flat

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view data)

By combining the measurement methods above, diagnosis of

the overall body damage level is possible.

Diagonal measurements:

Using a part installation hole or reference hole, which is one of

two symmetrical right and left positions as a measuring point,
diagonally measure the lengths of the front body, windows,
passenger compartment, trunk or cargo area, tailgate opening,
or under body. From this data, the deformation of the vehicle
as a whole can be judged.

Always combine the diagonal measurement with another

measuring method as the diagonal measurement may not
show all the deformation that exists.

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Reference to the Drawing of Body Dimensions:

While referring to the body dimensional drawing shown in the model specific body repair manual, measure the corresponding
dimensions on the actual vehicle in fore and aft, right and left and diagonal directions to evaluate the damage level.
Depending on the amount of damage, the measurements from the undamaged parts of the vehicle may also be used for to
evaluate damage levels.

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Measurements According to the Frame Repair Chart:

Measure the plain dimensions referring to the frame repair chart of the model specific body repair manual.
The measurement points in the repair chart use the installation positions of critical components of a vehicle as datum points;
such as the installation holes of the sub frame, engine, transmission, suspension related parts.

Always be sure to use equipment or gauges designed for vehicle body repair.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Parts Replacement

1. Parts Replacement

1. Cutting welded joints:

Spot welding is mostly used for the mass produced

body welding. MAG welding may also be used
occasionally.
When separating the weld joints, use hole punching
and grinding tools according to the joint conditions.

Confirm the assembly status of the replacement

panels and make sure not to damage the parts being
reused.

Cutting spot welded joints:

Remove the weld nuggets.

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Cutting MAG Welded joints:
Remove the weld beads and plugs.

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2. Repair the interfacing areas and apply anti-rust treatment.

‐1. Reform the weld flange where the new parts will be
installed using a hammer and a dolly. Repair holes and
cracks by welding if the steel grade allows this.
Otherwise replace the damaged part.

‐2. Sand the both sides of welding area using a belt sander
to remove basecoats, rust and contamination.

Do not over-sand the welding area.

‐3. Anti-rust treatment

Thoroughly apply electrically-conductive weld through
primer (spot sealer) evenly on the mating surfaces in
the welding area.

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3. Installing new parts and anti-rust treatment.

Spot Welding of a New Part:

‐1. Remove basecoat (E-coat primer) layer

Basecoat (black E-coat primer) is applied to new parts.
Completely remove this basecoat in the weld areas
prior to welding.

Do not over-sand the steel panel.

‐2. Anti-rust treatment

Thoroughly apply electro-conductive weld-through
primer (spot sealer) evenly on the areas to be spot
welded after removing the paint and E-coat.
Wipe off excess primer.

Plug Welding a New Part:

Place holes for plug welding on the new part using a
drill or hole punch.
Decide on how many holes to be made according to

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the mass production body welding drawing in the
model specific body repair manual or the old part.
Refer to “MAG welding for plug welding” for the
appropriate hole diameter as compared to panel
thickness.

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2. Zinc-Plated Steel Parts Repair

Zinc-Plated Steel Parts Repair

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The zinc-plated steel plate used in some panels of the Honda and Acura vehicles requires different repair techniques and
personal safety protection than ordinary steel plate. Refer to body construction information in “General Information” of the model
specific body repair manual to determine which parts are zinc plated.

Zinc fumes are generated during grinding and welding of zinc-plated steel parts and the application of weld-through primers
(spot sealer). This can cause an illness known as “metal fume fever” that causes temporary flu-like symptoms. Additional
health problems may result from long-term exposure to zinc fumes. Always use approved respiratory protection that
provides zinc fume protection when working around zinc plated steel and weld-through primers (spot sealer).

1. Before spot welding the zinc-plated steel, remove the paint or E-coat from both sides of the flanges being welded. Apply
weld-through primer (spot weld sealer) to the flanges before welding.
NOTE: Seal the sanded surfaces thoroughly to prevent rust.
2. Before applying body filler or putty to zinc-plated steel, sand the zinc plating thoroughly. Apply epoxy primer to promote
adhesion and prevent blistering.
NOTE: Use body filler and putty (one part filler/putty, one part harder), that are compatible with zinc-plated steel and follow
the manufacturer’s specifications.

3. Parts Installation

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1. Sectioning the new part (cut and joint replacement).

Before sectioning any part, check the Parts Sectioning

(Cut and Joint) Guidelines in the Repair Overview section
of this manual for important information.

If a new part, such as an outer panel, is being

sectioned, cut the old and new parts using an air saw or
grinder, so that the joint area can be overlapped about
20-30 mm (0.79-1.18 in).

When there is an acoustic separator on the panel mating

surface:
Damaged separators should be replaced with a new
one. The replacement separator does not include the
heat-activated expandable foam used in production.
Apply body sealer around the separator to fill in the
gaps between the separator and body panels.

If you make your cuts with too much body overlap,

it will be difficult to position the replacement panel

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for fit and finish.

2. Positioning the new part:

Align the new part to body reference holes, or old part

position and attach it to the body using clamps,
vise-grip type pliers, or other commercially available
panel attachment tools.
If these tools are not available, attach the new part
using bolts or self-tapping screws.
Measure the body dimensions to confirm panel
positioning.
It is extremely important to attach the frame and
damper housing parts to the correct positions because
they directly affect wheel alignment. (It is recommended
to use jig-type body and frame correction equipment or
those with built-in measurement systems for greater
accuracy.)

Fit and finish of exterior parts is also extremely

important as it will greatly impact the exterior
appearance. Make sure to install all exterior parts for a
final confirmation before permanent attachment.

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3. Welding the new part.

Cover the interior accessories, glasses and body

painted surfaces with the heat-resistant inflammable
cover (welding blankets) to protect them before
welding.

Key Points For Spot Welding:

Using vise grip type pliers or similar tools, clamp the
welding areas tightly with no gaps.
Try to avoid the old spot welds as much as possible
and place them with an even pitch.
For the areas that cannot be spot welded, use MAG
welding or MIG brazing instead if permitted. Always
follow the welding instructions for high strength steel
parts in the Repair Overview section of this manual.
Dress the spot welder electrode tips to maintain their
condition using a tip cutter. Replace the tips when
dressing them no longer restores proper appearance
and function.
When welding, refer to the specifications in the manual
issued by the welding equipment manufacturer.

Key Points For MAG Welding:

Be sure to attach the welder’s ground cable as close

as possible to the welding area.

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Using vise grip type pliers or similar tools, clamp the

welding areas tightly with no gaps.
If these tools cannot be used because of space
limitations, use a hammer and dolly to make tight
contact.

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4. Inspect the welded area

Thoroughly inspect the welded area to ensure all required
welding operations are completes before finishing.

5. Finishing the welding:

To finish, grind the plug or joint welded area with an

angle grinder or equivalent.
Do not over-grind to prevent weakening the welds.
In glass contacts areas, completely remove any steps
or projections.
Apply body filler to finish butt welded areas.

－ Avoid separator installation points when

repairing, cutting and welding panels. If the
separator’s urethane foam is damaged
(peeled or burnt), restoration is not
possible.
－ Damaged separators should be replaced
with a new one. The replacement separator
does not include the heat-activated
expandable foam used in production. Apply
Examples of acoustic separator installation locations

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body sealer around the separator to fill in
the gaps between the separator and body
panels.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Preparation for Body and Frame Correction

1. Preparation for Body and Frame Correction

Attachment of Body:

During body and frame correction, it is extremely important to

firmly attach the vehicle’s body to the repair equipment.
Depending upon the damage level, it is usually necessary to
pull out the body from more than one direction.

Basic anchor points

While different attachment points may be necessary
depending upon the damage level, the preferred attachment
locations are the reinforced lifting points located under the side
sills in the pinch weld area.

Auxiliary anchor points

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Depending on the correction forces and direction, auxiliary
anchor points may need to be added to prevent further
distortion of the undamaged body parts. Because there are
many different equipment and attachment designs, always
consult the manufacturer of your body and frame correction
equipment for their recommendations about anchoring
methods and points.

Setting Pulling Clamp:

When installing clamps at the pulling points, align the extended

line of the pulling direction to the center of the clamp.

If the clamp is out of alignment, the clamp may disengage

violently during a pull, which is very dangerous.

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Be sure there is no contamination on the clamp’s teeth.

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Repairing Major Body Damage - Pulling Direction

1. Impact Force Direction

1. The impact force deforms the body through the divided

elements of (A) and (B). Apply an equivalent or greater
force to the body from the opposite direction to pull-out and
restore the deformed shape back to original as much as
possible.

2. As the body stiffness varies from section to section, it is

necessary to adjust the pulling forces and directions
accordingly. The shape may not be restored completely by
pulling only in the opposite direction.

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2. Pulling Direction

Diagonal Pull-out:

Adjust the pulling force of (A) and (B) by changing the pull
angles.

Perpendicular Pull-out:

Add the pulling forces (A) and (B) perpendicularly while

adjusting their magnitude.

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By pulling the body from two perpendicular directions, it is

easier to control the change of direction of the composite
force. This allows easier, step by step body dimensional
restoration while confirming restoration progress.

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When estimating the restored shape of the body, set the
pulling anchor point on an extended line in the required
direction. By gradually pulling that part of the body, the
damaged section is eventually restored to the proper
shape.

The pulling directions should be determined based on the skill

level of the operators and/or the characteristics of the body
and frame correction equipment used.

Refer to the manual issued by the body and frame

correction equipment manufacturer for detailed
specifications and information.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Anti-Rust Treatment

1. Anti-Rust Treatment

Apply anti-rust treatment to the inside surface of the panel

because the paint layer will be damaged due to heat from
the previous repair processes.
Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the repair area through
the interior or exterior parts installation holes or through
body openings.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Basic Work Processes

1. Basic Work Processes

Minor body damage usually involves correction of outer panels or externally installed parts. This kind of work is usually done by
correction using hammers and dollies or washer welding. Both of these methods require body filler repairs to restore the original
body contours. The best way of repairing body panels is to correct the damage as close as possible to the original contours using
a hammer-out or washer welding method, then applying the minimum amount of body filler.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Body Filler (Putty) Repairs

1. Body Filler (Putty) Repairs

Selection of Putty:

For body filler repairs, it is extremely important to select the

most appropriate type of filler or putty for the work.
The filer type determines the resulting appearance or the
repair time required. To select the most appropriate
product, it is vitally important to know the technical
characteristics of panel putty, intermediate putty, polyester
putty, lacquer putty, etc.
For a depression deeper than 3 mm (0.12 in), begin with
panel or intermediate filler, form the surface with polyester
putty, then apply paint primer surfacer. Use spot or lacquer
putty to remove fine scratches. Save time by using
polyester putty as much as possible.

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Repairs where filler is applied directly over old paint
layers may be easier, but care must be taken. Some paint
layers types don’t accept filler well and will crack or peel
when filler is applied. Always check the old paint layer
type and condition. Do not apply filler directly over
degraded or lacquer paint layers.

Filler Application Steps:

1. Remove paint layers on steel panel and clean:

Remove the paint layer to bare metal from a slightly

wider area than the immediate filler application area
using a disc sander. Make sure to completely remove
old paint layer and any rust. Smooth the surface to
make a gradual blend it with the surrounding painted
areas.
Sand using a double action sander with P80 to P120
sandpaper to smooth out the surface between the bare
steel panel and old paint layers. Make a featheredge of
20-30 mm (0.79-1.18 in) while removing fine scratches.

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2. Clean and degrease the filler application area:

Use compressed air to remove dust, dirt, and water.

Remove oils with a degreaser.
In rainy or humid weather, warm the surface with an
infrared heater to eliminate moisture.
On very cold days, preheating the panel makes body
filler easier to spread and reduces drying time.

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3. Mix the filler and hardener.
Using a plastic or wooden body filler scoop, remove the
necessary amount of filler from the can. Add the filler and
specified ratio of hardener to the mixing board.

Check the appropriate mixing ratio in the product

specifications issued by the filler manufacturer.

To prevent air bubbles, knead the filler until the color

becomes even while twirling the scoop or spreader.

NOTE: Do not attempt to mix a large amount of filler at one

time because it may harden during application. When a
large amount is needed, mix and apply the filer in small
quantities.

Body filler scoop and spreader maintenance.

Straighten the end of body filler scoops or spreaders using
sandpaper and allow a slight bow.
Completely remove hardened filler and keep the tools clean
at all times.

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4. Using a body filler spreader

When the filler application area is rectangular, move the
spreader in a long direction.

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5. Basic filler application

-1. The initial layer of filer should be applied to remove

sanding scratches. Hold the spreader almost vertically
and apply a thin layer of filler while pressing down
slightly.

-2. Apply slightly more filler than necessary in light coats

to prevent cavities in the filler caused by air bubbles.

-3. The final layer of filler should be applied to smooth out

the surface by laying the spreader down closer to the
surface.

Sanding becomes much easier if filler is used to

restore the original shape as much as possible.

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2. Body Corners Repairs

Applying Filler at Body Corners:

Using a flexible rubber spreader, apply body filler along the

corner area. Apply enough filler to account for sanding
required to restore the body contours.

3. Stamping Line Repairs

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Applying Filler at Stamping Line:

1. Apply masking tape along the stamping line and apply body
filler to the lower side.

2. After the filler is halfway set (dried), remove the tape.

3. Apply tape along the filler line previously applied.

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4. Apply filler on the upper side of the tape.

4. Combined Surface Repairs

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Applying Filler on Combined Surface:

On a combined surface area such as a fender wheel arch,

where there are both flat and curved surfaces, correct the body
contours with filler as much as possible. Otherwise, sanding
and polishing time will be increased.

1. Apply filler on the upper side of rounded panel area.

To make the surface flat, spread the filler from the edge
sideways.

2. Apply filler on the lower side of the rounded area.

To make the surface flat, spread the filler from the edge
sideways.

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3. Apply the necessary amount of body filler on the side
surface of the rounded area. Use a spreader to move the
filler sideways. Repeat for the other side of the rounded
area.

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4. Apply filler on sides:

Apply necessary amount of filler on the side plane.

Smooth the surface by moving the spreader sideways
while avoiding the curved area.
Smooth the entire surface with repeated motions of the
spreader.

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5. Body Filler Dry

Drying Body Filler:

Body filler hardens enough to be sanded in 20 to 30

minutes at 68 °F (20 °C) after application. Low
temperatures or high humidity will increase the hardening
time required. Forced drying may be used to reduce repair
time.

NOTE: Rapid or excessive temperature changes will cause

body filler to blister, crack or detach from the repair area.

The hardening speed depends on the filler’s thickness. A

thick filler application will dry faster than a thinner one.

Follow the body filler or putty manufacturer’s

instructions for drying time.

6. Body Filler Sanding

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Sanding Body Filler:

1. Rough sanding

‐1. Rough sand on the entire filler surface until it is smooth.

‐2. When the filler is completely hardened, sand its surface

until almost flush with the body surface.
Do not over sand! Leave a finishing margin for hand
sanding.

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2. Finishing
Hand sand the filler surface to match the surrounding panel
surface using a hand file.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Hammer and Dolly Panel Repair

1. Hammer and Dolly Panel Repair Diagram

Reforming body contours using hammers and dollies can be done by hand without employing any special equipment, but
because it requires high expertise, the quality of the work depends on the technician’s workmanship.
With hammers and dollies, it is extremely difficult to finish the repair work to the same level of its undamaged pressed part.
So, parts replacement may be necessary, depending on the level of the damage. Collision repairs require a variety of handwork
that is not difficult individually. If the damaged areas can be easily accessed, hammer and dolly use is recommended because it
can be done easily and in a short time.

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2. Repair Steps

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1. Confirm damaged area:

Before starting the repair work, make sure to confirm

the deformation of the damaged area.
Use visual and feel inspection methods for minor body
damage.
Some obvious damage only requires a visual
inspection. Other damage is more difficult to spot and
requires projected light to identify damage by reflection.
For these types of damage, it is important to check the
damaged areas from multiple angles.
Gently touch the damaged areas with your hands to
judge the damage by feel. Wear cloth gloves or put a
thin cloth between the surface and hand when touching
to improve the sensitivity. Move your hands in many
directions for an accurate inspection.

(Reference)

Bent or swelled installed parts, such as a front fender, may

sometimes be returned back to the original shape by
removing their installation fasteners (bolts).

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2. Remove foreign materials adhered to the backside of the
panel Remove all the foreign materials such as undercoat,
sealer, and clay adhered to the rear surface with a scraper
etc. so that the dolly or spoon can directly contact the
actual steel back surface.

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3. Rough panel correction

Pull-out the damaged area using a body puller.
Using the body puller with a variety of attachments, a
variety of parts can be pulled-out.

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4. Select hammers, dollies or spoons:

Select the most appropriate hammers, dollies, and

spoons to the curves on the repaired panel.
If the curves of the damaged part of the panel do not
perfectly fit to any of those of the dollies or spoons
available, select dollies or spoons of which curves are
smaller than those of the panel damaged area.

Make the surface of hammers, dollies and spoons are

smooth so they don’t cause any damage or scratching of
the repaired surface.

5. Hand contour repair using a hammer

3. Hammer Technique

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Hammer Technique:

Lightly hold the hammer near the end of the handle and
swing it using your wrist.

When striking with a hammer, the hammer face must

always make flat and even contact with the panel surface.

When striking with a hammer, the hammer face must

always make flat and even contact with the panel surface.
If the edge of the hammer face contacts the surface, a

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crescent shaped mark or dent will be left on the panel that
is very difficult to remove. Do not use too much force.
Strike the panel as if you were bouncing the hammer. If
the panel is struck with too much force, it will be
elongated and require shrinking (drawing) work later.

4. Hammering Off Dolly and Hammering On Dolly

Hammer off dolly Hammering off dolly is used to correct comparatively large
unevenness. The recess is stricken out with a dolly. Hold
the dolly right beneath the depressed area and strike the
raised areas around it using the hammer.
The raised areas will be gradually lowered by the hammer
impact and the depressed area will be raised by the dolly
contact, due to the reaction of the hammer impact.
It is very important to maintain a good balance between the
hammer impact and holding force to keep the dolly in
position.

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Hammer on dolly Hammering on the dolly is used to correct small raised

areas on the repair surface.
Place the dolly directly under the raised area and strike the
area from above with a hammer. While the hammer impact
is flattening the raised area, the dolly rebounds due to the
hammer impact. To completely flatten the area, repeat this
work along the repaired panel surface while moving the
hammer and dolly.

5. Using a Body Spoon (Example)

While pushing against the inside of the panel using a spoon,

strike the outside of the panel with a hammer. Use this
technique for difficult to access areas such as door panels,
rear wheelhouse, etc.

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6. Deep Dents

1. Correct the depressed area of the part using a dolly from

inside.

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2. Flatten by alternately repeating hammer off dolly and on

dolly techniques.

7. Continuous Small Deformation

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1. Press the dolly against the rear of the depressed area and
strike the raise area from above with a hammer.

2. Repeat the step above while moving the hammer and dolly
together along the panel surface, repeat the work.

8. Partial Plastic Deformation

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9. Deformation at Corner

Flat strike the uneven or depressed area with a dolly bring

the surface back towards its original shape.
A way to repair dents on a sharply curved area. Alternate
using the hammer and dolly.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Inspection and Repair after Sheet Metal Work

1. Inspection and Repair after Sheet Metal Work

Repair Steps

1. Use hands, rulers or guide coat to check the contours of the

repair area.

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2. If the repaired area will requires excessive body filler, raise
the depressed area using a hammer or dolly. Correct high
spots by lightly hitting them with a pick hammer.

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3. To inspect the final repair, use gloved hands. Touch the

surface gently to check for any unevenness.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Shrinking (Drawing) Steel Sheet

1. Shrinking (Drawing) Steel Sheet

If stress and unevenness remain after the panel repair, shrink

the elongated area to their original shape.
The shrinking (drawing) process is possible by heating and
cooling cycles, along with use of a hammer or dolly.

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Shrinking by Heating and Cooling:

If an area on the steel sheet is heated, that heated area

expands. If heating is continued, elongation becomes
constrained by the surrounding unheated area and further
expansion becomes difficult. The surrounding area constrains
and compresses the expansion. The expansion is contained to
the vertical direction in the heated area. When this area is
quickly cooled with water, the steel shrinks.

Do not use a torch for shrinking during actual collision

repairs, because the heat is difficult to control.

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Drawing by Electric Resistance:

This method makes it possible to shrink panels from the

outside when full access is difficult or requires additional
disassembly.
This method suitable for relatively wide and shallow
damage repair.
Replace the washer welder’s electrode before use.

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Press the electrode against the center of the stressed area,
and turn on the switch. Shrink by moving the electrode to
heat from the center of the damage outward.
Remove any warpage caused by the shrinking process by
hitting lightly with a hammer and dolly.

When a carbon electrode is used, heat the stressed area in

a spiral pattern moving outside toward the center as
illustrated. Then air cool the area.
Remove any warpage caused by the shrinking process by
hitting lightly with a hammer and dolly.

Flatten using light hammer force. If excessive force is

applied, the shrunken area will be elongated again.

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Using a Shrinking Hammer and Dolly:

Using a hammer or dolly that has a grid of pyramidal

projections on the striking surface, hit the damaged area.
When the panel is hit, tiny expansions take place, but the
panel shrinks as a whole.
This method is used to repair rather small damage areas
that don’t require heating.

Do not use the shrinking hammer and dolly at the same

time. If a shrinking hammer or dolly is used, the counter
tool must be a non-shrinking type.

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Repairing Minor Body Damage - Washer Welding Repair

1. Washer Welding Repair

This repair method is used to repair recessed areas where the back side of the damaged cannot be easily accessed such as
a door panel, pillar, side sill, or rear wheel arch.
Because the heat generated while welding washers will damage the paint or anti-rust coating inside the panel, it is necessary
to treat the area with anti-corrosion materials after the repair.
A related repair method uses welded on studs instead of washers, but the processes are similar.

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Repair Steps

1. Confirm damaged area:

Before starting the repair work, make sure to confirm

the deformation of the damaged area.
Use visual and feel inspection methods for minor body
damage.
Some obvious damage only requires a visual
inspection. Other damage is more difficult to spot and
requires projected light to identify damage by reflection.
For these types of damage, it is important to check the
damaged areas from multiple angles.
Gently touch the damaged areas with your hands to
judge the damage by feel. Wear cloth gloves or put a
thin cloth between the surface and hand when touching
to improve the sensitivity. Move your hands in many
directions for an accurate inspection.

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2. Remove paint from panel surface.
Grind off the paint layers from the damaged area using a
disc sander.

3. Repair work:

Because the stamping line maintains body panel

rigidity, major stress occurs when stamping lines are
deformed. Correct repair of this stamping line can
relieve this strain.
Repair the stamping line first and then reform the flat
surface damage.
If the stress cannot be relieved with stamping line repair
alone because the damage is too serious, panel rigidity
loss is partially due to elongation caused by plastic
deformation on the plain surface.
If elongation of the flat surface is identified, shrink
(draw) the panel to relieve the stress.

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-1. When repairing a stamping line, weld washers

along the stamping line then pull out the damage
by inserting a shaft through the washers. This will
make stamping line repair easier. If the shaft
cannot go through the washers, re-weld the
washers so that a shaft can be inserted.

-2. Hook a chain around the center of the shaft and

pull out the damage using a slide hammer and
hold tension.

Do not apply excessive pulling force.

-3. Correct the depressed area on the stamping by

tapping on wide chisel along the body creases.

Do not apply excessive hammer force.

-4. Correct around the welded washers to smooth out

the surface by hitting lightly with a hammer. Be

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careful not to apply excessive hammer force.

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Repairing Plastic Parts - Plastic Part Repair Methods 3665 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Repairing Plastic Parts - Plastic Part Repair Methods

Many plastic parts are used for exterior parts of a vehicle. In addition to sheet metal repairs, it is sometimes necessary to
repair plastic parts. The major large plastic parts include: bumpers, side sill garnishes, and spoilers. They may be constructed
of PP, ABS, PC, or nylon-polyester-based materials. In many damage situations, plastic part replacement is preferred over
repair.

Before attempting repairs, identify the plastic part’s construction and select the most appropriate repair materials.
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for the repair materials.
Be careful to avoid part deformation and damage during forced-dry with heat during the repair process, be careful
with the.

1. Plastic Part Repair Methods

Example of damage: Scratches and hairlines on PP bumper.

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1. Preparation and cleaning:

Wash the damaged area with water.

Thoroughly clean both the front and rear sides of the
damaged area using a degreaser to remove wax and
oils.

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2. Stand and study raw surface

Featheredge the damaged area using P80 to P120
sandpaper.
Then degrease the surface.

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Repairing Plastic Parts - PP (Polypropylene) Bumper Repair Procedures

1. PP (Polypropylene) Bumper Repair Procedures

1. Filler
Fill in the damaged area using epoxy-type body filler.

-1. Apply primer for PP bumper in the damaged area

where filler will be applied.
-2. Mix the filler and hardener.
-3. Restore the part’s original shape by applying sufficient
filler to the damaged area using 2-3 separate thin
coats.

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2. Sanding and surfacing:

Rough sand with P120 sandpaper first and finish sand

the surface with P180 to P240 sandpaper.
Use the wet sanding method when possible.

3. Refinish the part (base coat/clear coat)

Refer to the Basic Paint Repair manual for information.

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Resin - Identification of Resin Type

1. Identification of Resin Type

It is necessary to be able to repair plastic parts as similar to the other body parts since there are many plastic parts used for
vehicle exterior.
The repair methods and materials used depend on the materials that the plastic parts are made from.
Refer to the stamped code (ID) on the backside of the parts and the Service Manual for detailed material identification.
Always check the plastic resin characteristics before repairing.

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Resin - Plastic Resin Types

1. Plastic Resin Types

Many different kinds of plastic resins are used for automotive parts depending upon their purposes. Plastic resin characteristics
are also very different from one to another. It is important to know the material names and their chemical and mechanical
characteristics.
Plastic resins can be roughly divided into two categories: thermoplastic resins and thermosetting resins.

Characteristics and Main Types of Thermoplastic Resins:

When heated, these resins become soft. If heated further, they will melt. When the temperature is reduced, they return to a solid
state.

Resin Materials Codes Features

Polyethylene PE Good in cold resistant, electrical characteristic, and chemical-resistant properties.

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Impenetrable except air. Though inferior in strength, rigidity and thermal resistant
properties, as density is increased, rigidity and thermal resistant property is
improved.
Polypropylene PP The lightest in weight of all the resins. Used for large size parts like bumpers. Its
strength, rigidity, and surface hardness are greater than those of Polyethylene (PE).
It has a high thermal resistant temperature. Good in electric characteristics,
anti-water and chemical-resistant properties. Strong in bending. Inferior in
adhesiveness and weatherproof property.
Polyvinyl chloride PVC Through addition of plasticizer, it is possible to adjust its property from soft to hard.
Good in electrical characteristics, chemical-resistant, and weather resistant
properties. Inferior in anti-shock and anti-bending properties.
ABS resin ABS Good in mold forming, anti-shock property, and metal-plating properties. Easy
secondary processing. Inferior in weatherproofing, heat resistant, and chemical
resistant properties.
Acrylic resin PMMA Great in appearance. Used for lens for tail light lens. High transparent rate. Good in
strength, weather proofing, and workability. Inferior in anti-shock, anti-solvent,
heat-resistant properties.
Polyamide (Nylon) PA Used for structural member parts because of its high strength and tenacity. Good in
self-lubricant, anti-wear, anti-solvent properties. Wide range of temperatures for use.
High water absorption rate. A change of dimensions and or softening due to water
absorption may cause troubles.
Polycarbonate PC Strong in shock absorption. Good in heat resistant and cold-resistant properties,
electrical characteristics, self-digesting and weather proofing properties. Low fatigue
strength. Stress cracks and solvent cracks may happen.

Characteristics and Main Types of Thermosetting Resins:

Once this type of resins is heated and, as the result, hardened, they are not softened again even if they are heated again.

Resin Materials Codes Features

Polyurethane PUR High elasticity. Good in anti-wear, anti-deterioration, anti-oil, and cold-resistant
properties. Weak in alkali and hydrolytic dissociation easily takes place. Its hard
foam is good for heat insulation and sound-insulation. As an adhesive, it can be
hardened at room temperature and is strong.

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Resin Materials Codes Features

Unsaturated polyester UP A typical material based on glass-based fiber for FRP. Good mold forming property.
Cheaper than epoxy resin. Good in strength, rigidity, and electrical characteristics.
Weak in alkali and hydrolytic dissociation easily takes place. Greatly shrinks when
hardened. Insufficient heat-resistant property.
Glass fiber enhanced FRP Resin (=matrix) is reinforced by fiber (=reinforcing material) to significantly increase
plastic the strength. A fiber reinforced plastic which offers a various superior features. There
are a wide variety of properties available for both resin (unsaturated polyester resins,
epoxy resin, phenol resin etc.) and reinforcing materials (glass fibers, carbon fiber,
aramid fiber etc.) and the combinations can achieve many types of characteristics.

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Resin - Use of Resin Parts

1. Use of Resin Parts

Example:

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Safety and Cleanliness - Equipment Maintenance Checks 3539 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Safety and Cleanliness - Equipment Maintenance Checks

1. Equipment Maintenance Checks

In order to maintain a safe working environment, all

equipment and machines in the workshop must function
properly for their intended purposes. It is very important to
conduct regular inspection and maintenance before using
any shop tools or equipment.
Always make sure your work area has properly, functioning
ventilation and that any hazardous materials are properly
stored, etc.

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Safety and Cleanliness - Precautions for Operation

1. Precautions for Operation

Vehicle Jacking:

Do not use a floor jack on sloped or weak ground as this

may result in the vehicle falling.
If a vehicle has an excessive weight imbalance due to
cargo on board, do not use a floor jack.
Always set wheel chocks on both sides of the wheels not
being raised.
After the vehicle is jacked up, always use jack stands to
hold the vehicle in place.
Never crawl under the vehicle while the vehicle is raised
using a jack alone, even for a short time. If the vehicle falls,
it may result in serious injury or death.

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Vehicle Lifts:

Set the lift arms and pads securely at the specified lift
points. If the lift blocks are positioned at places other than
those specified, the vehicle may be damaged or fall off of
the lift.
If major assemblies are being removed, always put an
equivalent weight at the opposite end of the vehicle to
maintain the weight balance.
Never lift only one side of a vehicle using a lift.
When lifting a vehicle, always watch the vehicle’s condition
and confirm that no unsafe conditions exist.
Stop lifting the vehicle only when all four wheels are
suspended off the ground and confirm that the vehicle is
securely positioned before continuing.
Never go under the vehicle while the lift is operating.
After the vehicle is raised to your working level, make sure
the all of lift’s safety catches engage and hold the vehicle
securely.

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Frame & Body Straightening:

Check the condition of the clamps and chains before using

the equipment. Do not use deformed or cracked clamps or
chains.
Use appropriate capacity clamps and chains. Using
inadequate clamps or chains may result in violent failures.
If straightening equipment is being used for rough frame
correction, do not enter the chain’s pulling direction. Always
stand in a safe place.
Always use safety wires on chains and clamps to reduce
the chance of injury or vehicle damage if a chain fails.

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Welding Operations:

Remove the fuel tank if welding near the tank or

combustible materials located in close proximity to the fuel
tank.
Protect the vehicle with a welding blanket.

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Drying Work:

Do not put inflammable things near the painting booth or dryer.

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Safety and Cleanliness - Safety Equipment

1. Safety Equipment

Collision repair technicians must wear a long sleeve clothing, a

cap and safety shoes. When necessary, put on safety glasses,
gloves, ear plugs, a respirator or dust mask, etc. to ensure
personal safety.

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Face shield Protects eyes and face from dust and sparks during grinding.

Safety glasses Protect eyes from air-borne dust, dispersed liquid, organic
solvent gas and paint mist.

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Ear plugs Protect ears from excessive noise levels during equipment
operation.

Dust mask Protects lungs from dust inhalation during sanding or grinding.

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Respirator Prevents inhalation of toxic solvents and dust during painting
or welding.

Gloves Protect hands during general body repair operations.

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Solvent gloves Prevent absorption of organic solvents through the skin.

Welding helmet Protects eyes, face and neck from flash burn, ultraviolet light,
sparks, infrared light, and heat during welding. Auto darkening
helmets make welding much easier and safer.

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Welding gloves Protect hands from heat, sparks, and hot metal slag during
welding.

Welding apron, arm/leg cover, hood Protect arms, legs and other body parts from flash burn,
ultraviolet light, sparks, infrared light, and heat during welding.

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Safety shoes (static electricity free shoes) Protect toes from heavy falling objects.

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Safety Wires:

Used for body and frame repair and straightening

operations.
Help prevent injuries if a pulling chain fails or detaches
while under tension.

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Welding Blankets:

Fireproof and/or heat resistant covers used to protect body

parts such as glass and seats during welding operations.
Some use fireproof material such as carbon fiber.

Fume Collector:

Collects welding fumes which can cause pneumoconiosis,

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emphysema, or other respiratory disorders during metal
welding.

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Sealer (Adhesive) - Types and Use of Sealer 3591 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/enu/61TBAD/...

Sealer (Adhesive) - Types and Use of Sealer

1. Types and Use of Sealer

Sealers can be categorized according to their ingredients, applications, hardening types, functions or effectiveness. There are
three kinds of sealers (adhesive) used for car manufacturing. One type is a structural use, used for adhering structural
components together that need a strong adhesion.
The second type is a non-structural use, used for adhering interior upholsteries, and the third type is a quasi-structural use,
used to fill-in clearances between the body component parts.
For quasi-structural use sealer, there is a mastic sealer that is used for improving panel rigidity, preventing vibration and
noise, and a body sealer that is effective for preventing entry of water, dust and wind.

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Mastic Sealer:

Used to adhere the hood, trunk, door and roof with outer
panels. It not only joins them together, but also contributes to
increased rigidity of the panels, helping to prevent vibration
and noise form the outer panels.

Body Sealer (Paint Sealer):

Applied to part contact surfaces to prevent entry of water and

dust. It also has a rust-prevention effect for the edges of steel
sheets and is used to improve exterior appearance.

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Glass Sealer (Urethane-based Sealer):

For glasses and other external parts (including the side

protector), a urethane-based sealer that is hardened at room
temperature is used.

The automobile window glasses are attached with a method

called direct glazing, which directly adheres the laminated
glasses onto the painted body.
In this method, one-component moisture-curing polyurethane
type adhesive is used. The adhesion surfaces are a ceramic
coated glass and painted steel panel. To improve the
adhesion, primer is applied on both surfaces.

Spot Sealer (aka Weld-Through Primer):

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Used to prevent rust on the mating surfaces of spot welds.

Foam Filler Material:

Significantly reduces the amount of passenger compartment

road noise when applied to close off body cavities.

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Separator:

Separators are installed in between the panels of mass

produced vehicles. Foam is generated around the separators
by heat during paint baking process fill up body cavities. Some
newer models use expandable foam applied through the inner
panel holes for this same purpose.

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Specialized Painting Processes - Colored Clearcoat Painting

1. Colored Clearcoat Painting

Composition of Color Clear Paint Layer Color clear paint is a mixture of clear coat used for metallic
painting topcoat, with transparent pigment and dyes. This
paint provides vivid, deep, and transparent colors.
The paint color will be a combination of the translucent
colored clear layer and the color base beneath it.

NOTE:
Because colored clear paint is translucent and looks
different depending upon the paint layer thickness, prepare
several paint samples with different layers to compare the
color, the same as you would for three-coat pearl.
If the paint used as a color base has poor coverage
capability, apply a base color that offers a greater coverage
first. Then apply the color base paint.

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Specialized Painting Processes - Intermediate Chip Guard Painting

1. Intermediate Chip Guard Painting

Helps prevent chipping damage from flying stones while

driving. Normally, chip guard primer (chloride vinyl resin) is
painted on the side sills etc. The painting surface is granular
with a layer thickness of 100 to 200 μm.

NOTE: Check for the paint manufactures’ spec information

before use.

Coating Processes

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1. Scuffing:
Sand the base coat layer using a scuffing pad. (P240 to
P400)

NOTE: Be careful not to sand excessively down to the base

material.

2. Clean with air blow gun then degrease.

3. Mask.

4. Apply Chip Guard Primer:

Apply the first pass lightly, but enough to wet the

surface, then allow 5 minutes flash time.
Match the surface quality of the paint layer with the
surrounding surfaces during the second pass to have
consistent granular texture.
Complete this process with two coats if possible. Do not
over-apply.

NOTE: Refer to the paint manufactures' instructions for the

specific coating method.

5. Dry:
Allow a 15-minute set-up time and force dry the surface for
30 to 40 minutes at a temperature of 86 °F (30 °C). For
thicker paint layers, allow a longer set-up time.

NOTE: Always refer to the paint manufactures' instructions

for the appropriate drying time.

6. Apply urethane primer-surfacer.

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Specialized Painting Processes - Soft Chip Guard Primer Coat

NOTE: Depending on the destination, a soft chip guard primer coat is applied. If this chip guard primer coating is applied, read
following precautions and follow coating procedures.

1. Soft Chip Guard Primer Coat

Sectional view of paint coats General Safety Precautions

The removal of paint and undercoating by stone chips

immediately exposes metal to the atmosphere, causing it to
oxidize. The thickness of this oxidation increases if the process
continues unchecked. Soft chip guard primer protects against
damage due to the impact of such objects:
The soft chip guard primer coat is applied over the E.D.
(electrostatically deposited) primer. It is followed by the

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guide coat and the topcoat.
Soft chip guard primer produces a smooth surface when
dry. It should be sprayed so the thickness of the protective
film is 20 microns.
Soft chip guard primer coat is then applied to the most
susceptible areas.
Spray the primer-surfacer (dual-component urethane
primer-surfacer) on the soft chip guard primer coating areas
when you replace parts using soft chip guard primer coat.

Coating Processes

Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye

injury.
Ventilate when spraying undercoat.

1. Sanding the replacement part.

Use a double action sander and P400 sandpaper.

NOTE:
Do not over sand the edges or corners of the part.
Do not expose base metal.

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2. Air blowing/degreasing.
Use alcohol, and wax and grease remover.

3. Protect from overspray.

Use masking tape and protect the related areas from
overspray.

4. Spraying primer-surfacer:

Spray about four to five coats to get 20 microns of

thickness. One coat deposits about 5 to 7 microns.
Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy coat.
Applying several thin coats is recommended.
Use a dual-component urethane primer surfacer and a
spray gun.
Mix the primer-surfacer with the correct ratio of
hardener and solvent.
Follow the primer-surfacer manufacturer’s instructions.

5. Drying.

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After spraying primer surfacer, allow 7 to 10 minutes of
set-up time, then force dry it with infrared lamps or an
industrial dryer.

6. Fine sanding:

Check that the primer-surfacer has dried thoroughly,

then sand the primer-surfacer.
Use a double action sander and P400－P600
sandpaper.

7. Apply intermediate coating and topcoat.

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Specialized Painting Processes - Top Clearcoat Painting

1. Features of Paint Layer

Coating Processes Pretreatment and Paint Layer Composition

Apply cathode electrodeposition paint to the high density
conversion coating to enhance the thickness of the paint film
and corrosion resistance.

Intermediate Coating
To improve the finishing quality of the topcoating and chip
resistance.

Topcoating
To offer a high quality paint by applying a high-solid premium
topcoat with polyester acrylic resin type paint along with a
base enamel paint.

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Over Coat Clear Painting (Abrasion-Resistant Clear)
Maintains smoothness, flatness, freshness, of the luster. Also
the deepness and high apparent thickness of the paint layer.

NOTE: In particular to the three-coat pearl paint, repeat the

intermediate coating to improve the finish quality of the
topcoating and expand the color range.

2. Composition of Paint Layer

3. Work Steps (After Clear Coating)

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1. Allow Sufficient Set-up Time:

After painting, leave the surface as is for about 10 to 20
minutes, in order to let the solvent evaporate and prevent
defects from occurring during forced drying.

NOTE: Set-up time changes according to ambient

temperature or paint layer thickness. Check the paint
manufacturers’ instructions.

2. Force Dry Clearcoating:

Force dry the surface for approximately 30 to 40 minutes at
a temperature of 140 °F (60 °C).

NOTE: Check the paint manufacturers’ instructions for the

appropriate drying time.

3. Scuff:
Wet sand the coated surface using P1200 to P2000
wet-or-dry sand paper. Clean with air blow gun then
degrease.

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4. Apply Over Coat Clear:
To allow sufficient set-up time, leave the coated surface as
is for about 10 to 20 minutes, in order to let the solvent
evaporate and prevent defects from occurring during forced
drying.

NOTE: Set-up time changes according to ambient

temperature or paint layer thickness. Check the paint
manufacturers’ instructions.

5. Dry:

Force dry the surface for approximately 30 to 40

minutes at a temperature of 140 °F (60 °C).
If polished before completely dried, the surface may be
de-glossed turn a whitish color. At the same time, if
dries too much, it will make the paint layer very hard,
increasing polishing time.

NOTE: Always refer to the paint manufactures' instructions

for the appropriate drying time.

6. Polishing.

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Specialized Painting Processes - Undercoating

1. Undercoating

Front floor, rear floor and inside the front and rear wheel houses of mass produced vehicles are undercoated (mineral- based
vinyl chloride) in order to protect those parts from chipping damage caused by flying stones etc. Though the thickness of the
paint layer differs depending upon the parts, it is usually 0.5－1.5 mm (0.020－0.060 in).
When those parts are repaired or replaced with a new one, use a commercially available undercoating (Nox-rust 409- 20s,
Solton 1000s Hard wax etc.).
NOTE: Check the paint manufacturers’ instructions for their product specifications when using undercoat agent.
Refer to the model specific body repair manual for details about undercoating locations.

Coating Processes

1. Mask interface surfaces of the assembly parts including dampers, sub frame, etc. Also all power train and exhaust related
parts to avoid overspray when necessary.

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2. Clean up the area to apply undercoating and wipe off oily residue with degreaser.

3. Apply undercoating paint to the under floor and inside the wheel houses.
Make sure the paint layer to be 1 mm (0.039 in) or thicker on the welded joints and each floor joint areas as well as the wheel
houses.

4. Dry the undercoat.

NOTE: Always refer to the paint manufactures' instructions for the appropriate drying time.

5. Give a top coat.

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Actions for Environmental Concerns

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By eliminating the use of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) for interior plastic parts and body undercoating, the chloride concentration ratio
in the shredder dust at recycling is reduced to 1% or less. Recently, the traditional undercoat (mineral-based vinyl chloride) for
mass produced vehicles has been replaced with a foam type undercoat. For some models, insulation undercoating is applied to
the side sills and rear wheel houses to enhance the noise insulation performance and reduce the number of parts.

NOTE: As the foam type is very soft, be careful not to damage the paint layer while removing and installing the surrounding
parts. The paint layer of foam type is thick, thus apply thicker undercoat when repairing with a commercially available
undercoating.

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Foam Type Undercoat and Insulation Undercoat (Example)

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Spot Welding - Principles and Characteristics

1. Principles and Characteristics

Spot welding is a type of electric resistance welding that also

uses pressure. Two or more metal plates are held under
pressure between two electrodes. When an electric current is
applied, the heat occurring from the electrical resistance fuses
a small areas of the parts together. The processes are as
follows:

Spot Welding Processes:

1. Pinching (Tight Holding)

Allows the current concentration in the welding area, the
work pieces are held tight by electrode pressure.

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2. Electricity Fusion
While the work pieces are pinched together, a high current
is applied to melt the and join contact surfaces of the metal
layers under the electrodes.

3. Pressure Holding
After applying the current, pressure is held until the melted
surfaces cool down to reinforce the welded area (nugget).

4. Release
Releasing the pressure moves electrode tips away from the
joint area.

Characteristics of Spot Welding:

Welding time is short and heat in localized, minimizing
distortion.
Best suited for thin sheet steel.
Required skills or technical expertise is lower than other
weld types.
Difficult to visually inspect weld quality as the welded parts
are layered on top of each other.

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Spot Welding - Selecting Electrode Tips

1. Electrode Tip Design & Shape

Spot Welder Electrode Tip Design & Shape:

There are two electrode designs; one-piece type and cap
type.
The cap type is more popular due to its high cooling
performance and ease of replacement.

Spot Welder Electrode Roles:

Allows electrical current to pass through the parts being
welded
Applies pressure to the weld area to prevent spatter
Acts as a heat sink to cool down the parts after welding

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2. Selecting Electrode Tips

There is no single electrode tip design required for spot welding Honda and Acura vehicles. The appropriate tip may vary
based on vehicle design, welding task, and welding equipment design. Consult the welder manufacturer about their
recommended electrode tip to produce the test piece results detailed in “Weld Inspection”.

Electrode tips

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Spot Welding - Spot Welding Conditions for Ultra High-Strength Steel Parts (1180 & 1500 MPa)

The welding conditions (condition numbers and setting descriptions) for the spot welding positions including ultra high-strength
steel (1500MPa/ 1180MPa) positions are described in “Installation” and “Replacement” in section 3 of model specific body
repair manual. Always refer to the welding conditions to help ensure adequate weld strength.

NOTE:
For spot welding positions excluding high-strength steel (1500MPa/1180MPa), confirm the sheet thickness, tensile strength
and existence of the zinc treatment of both sides, and set the welder to confirm to the welding conditions by referring to
“Body Parts Construction” of “General Information” in section 1 of the model specific body repair manual.
For the actual settings of the welder, refer to the specifications supplied by the welder manufacturer.

Spot welding conditions

Condition Welding Welding Applied Condition Welding Welding Applied
No. current time force No. current time force
A ms N (kgf) A ms N (kgf)
1 6500 300 2452 (250) 17 8500 700 3432 (350)

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2 7000 300 2452 (250) 18 9000 700 3432 (350)
3 7500 300 2452 (250) 19 9500 700 3432 (350)
4 6500 400 2942 (300) 20 8500 800 3432 (350)
5 7000 400 2942 (300) 21 9000 800 3432 (350)
6 7500 400 2942 (300) 22 9500 800 3432 (350)
7 8000 400 2942 (300) 23 10500 700 3432 (350)
8 7000 500 3432 (350) 24 10500 800 3923 (400)
9 7500 500 3432 (350) 25 8000 1500 3432 (350)
10 8000 500 3432 (350) 26 8000 800 3432 (350)
11 8500 500 3432 (350) 27 8500 1500 3432 (350)
12 7500 600 3432 (350) 28 7500 800 3432 (350)
13 8000 600 3432 (350) 29 8000 1200 3432 (350)
14 8500 600 3432 (350) 30 8500 1200 3432 (350)
15 9000 600 3432 (350) 31 9000 1200 3432 (350)
16 8000 700 3432 (350)

NOTE:
The condition numbers of the above list show the type of the spot welding conditions of the spot welding points including
the ultra high-strength steel (1500MPa/1180MPa) parts of Honda and Acura vehicles.
The welding condition values described in the above list are determined by experiments using test pieces, zinc primer
coating, preheat, and specified tip shapes (Round-16).
For spot welds involving 1500MPa steel parts, manual spot welder settings provided in the BRM (or a Honda-specific
program) are recommended. Honda does not recommend using the spot welder’s AUTO mode for this steel grade because
these settings may not achieve adequate weld strength.

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Spot Welding - Weld Inspection

1. Weld Inspection

Both visual inspection and destructive testing are used for spot weld inspection. One of the drawbacks of spot welding is visual
inspection difficulty because the steel layers are stacked on top of each other. Because of this, destructive testing is the main
inspection method. However, visual inspection is still important to check for the finishing quality. Destructive testing often requires
equipment not found in most shops, such as a tensile strength test machine. The chart below details the easiest and most
practical spot weld inspections.

Visual Inspection:
Inspection Points Judgment Criteria
Spot locations Nugget is located in the middle of flange, no holes, and no nugget overflow into flange edge.
The repair spot welds avoid original spot weld locations where possible.
Number of spots and Number or spot welds is slightly increased over the factory number of welds where possible.
pitch Welding pitch is set according to model specific body repair manual procedures.
Pinhole No visible holes.
Spatter No excessive spatter.

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2. Destructive Inspection

Destructive Inspection (using test piece):

1. Prepare test pieces made of the same material and

thickness as the parts to be welded and weld together as
illustrated.
2. Apply force in the directions shown by the arrows to
separate the spot weld. Then inspect the condition of the
broken test parts.
When testing thicker test pieces, use a vise to hold one
piece and hammer the other piece to rotate and separate
the weld nugget area.
3. There are three types of spot weld fractures:

Plug fracture (Nugget pullout).

Interfacial fracture.
Partial plug fracture.

4. Spot welds pass inspection if the weld nugget diameter is

equal to or greater than 4.5 times the square root of one
plate thickness.
NOTE: In general, high-strength steel contains a higher
amount of carbon and hardens the weld nugget more than mild
steel. This means high strength steel has a lower workability
(ductility) and fractures more easily than mild steel.

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Plug Fracture (Nugget pullout):

The weld nugget pulls completely out of one of the test pieces,
along the outer diameter of the spot welded area.

The weld diameter or nugget diameter is calculated as [d1 +

d2]/2, to get a mean diameter. However, because the diameter
of plug fracture is larger than the weld nugget diameter as
illustrated, calculate using the weld nugget diameter.

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Interfacial Fracture:

The weld nugget fails by cracking through the spot welded

area of the test pieces.

The weld nugget diameter of interfacial fracture is calculated

as [d1 + d2]/2 to get a mean diameter.

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Spot Welding - Weld Terminology

Nugget

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The small area where the base metal is melted and hardened during spot welding. The nugget’s cross-section is oval shaped
and arched. The nugget diameter is the actual welded/fused area between the parts. The strength of a spot weld is largely
dependent on nugget size.

Corona Bond
The area where electrode pressure was applied the weld nugget. It prevents the melted metal to spatter. If the weld nugget
and corona bond sizes become similar, the pressurized area won’t be able to hold the melted metal and spattering will occur.

Heat Affected Zone

The heated area around the weld nugget. The heat changes the metal structure of this area, but there is no melting.

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Spot Welding - Welding Conditions

1. Welding Conditions

There are several elements to achieving a good weld. The

welding pressure, welding current, and welding time have a
great impact on the quality. They are called as “Three Major
Welding Conditions”. In addition, the shape of the electrode tip
also has a great impact on the current supply and cooling
processes, which helps determine the end quality of the weld.
With the electrode shape included, there are “Four Major
Welding Conditions”.

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PRESSURE CHANGE AND NUGGET DIAMETER Welding Pressure

Welding pressure minimizes the occurrence of “welding

spatter” while supplying the current to the parts being joined. It
also stabilizes the strength of the welded parts by holding
pressure even after the current is applied. If the welding
current and time remain the same and only the welding
pressure is changed, the higher the pressure applied, the
smaller the nugget will be and lower the strength of the welded
parts. The reason for this phenomenon can be explained this
way:
When two work pieces are held together by the welding tips,
the current will run through the pressurized part, in other words
a slightly wider area of work pieces around the tips. When the
pressure is high, the surface area of which the current runs
becomes larger. Under these conditions, the current does not
fully concentrate (lowering of current density) and the
temperature does not become high enough to melt the parts
being welded thoroughly. As a result, the nugget becomes
smaller.

Welding Current

The larger the welding current becomes, the bigger the

diameter of nugget becomes. Increasing the current generates
“spatter”, but by applying a high welding pressure to work
pieces, “spatter” is minimized because the electrified surface
becomes larger. In other words, spatter occurs when high
current is applied in combination with low welding pressure. As
such, current and pressure have a correlation.

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Welding Time

Welding time impacts the size and quality of the weld nugget.
A long welding time generates a large amount of heat resulting
in a large nugget.
The amount of heat dissipation around the welding area and
tips increases as the welding time gets longer. After a certain
variable amount of time, the temperature of welding area
saturates. Increasing welding time beyond that point doesn’t
increase the weld nugget size, but it does increase pressure
dents from the weld tips and heat deflection, resulting in weld
quality issues.

Electrode Tip Diameter and Current Density:

The major functions of the welding electrodes are:

－ Allows electrical current to pass through the parts

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being welded

－ Applies pressure to the weld area to prevent spatter

－ Acts as a heat sink to cool down the parts after

welding

Electrodes must have high conductivity, wear-resistance,

and thermal conductivity.
After making repeated welds, the electrode contact tips
become larger, reducing current density and heat transfer.
This results in a smaller weld nugget size and a low weld
strength.

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Spot Welding - Welding Equipment Structure

1. Welding Equipment Structure

A spot welder consists of the welding gun, transformer to

increase welding current, and the controller to control “welding
current”, “welding pressure”, and “welding time”.

Welding Gun:

The welding tips provide pressure to the welding area,

apply current, and allow the weld area to cool while being
held tightly. To resist deformation and conduct heat
efficiently, the tips are made of copper alloy (chromium
copper).
The arms feed current to the tips to suit various
requirements. They are available in many different shapes
and lengths.

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Compressed air is usually used to move the tips up and
down to hold work pieces tightly.

Transformer:

Converts the input (primary) voltage to the low voltage and

high current, required for spot welding.

Controller:

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Controls the three major conditions of the spot welding

process:
Welding current
Welding pressure
Welding time

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Spot Welding - Welding Precautions

1. Welding Precautions

1. Conditions of Welding Part:

Contaminated welding surfaces will not allow sufficient

welding current penetration. Remove paint film and rust
by sanding the areas being welded with a small belt
sander.

Use tools like vise grip welding pliers to tightly clamp

parts being welded.

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2. Condition of Welding Tips:

Make sure there is no contamination, damage or

deformation of the welding electrode tips before use.
When the of the welding electrode tips degrades with
use, current flow is reduced, resulting in poor welding
nugget quality.
Dress or replace the electrode tips, before each use to
ensure optimal welding performance.

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3. Setting Arm
The arms selected must adjust to allow the welding
electrode tips to align in a straight line.

4. Welding Pitch:

When spot welds are place too close together, some of

the welding current is “shunted” through the previously-
welded spot. This current is then not available to
complete the spot weld being made, resulting in a
weaker joint. Check the welding conditions compared to

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the chart below and adjust as necessary to prevent
shunted current.

When the spot is too close to the edge of flange, the

nugget overflows outside the flange surface reducing
the welding strength. Weld spot must be located on the
center of the weld flange.

The welding pitch (distance between the spot welds)

and the distance from the flange edge must be set
according to the material thickness. Use the chart
below as a reference for spot weld location and pitch.

Spot: Weld Location Chart (assumes 2 layers of equal

thickness)
Thickness Pitch P End Distance E
mm (in) mm (in) mm (in)
0.6 (0.024) 11+ (0.43+) 5+ (0.20+)
0.8 (0.031) 14+ (0.55+) 5+ (0.20+)
1.0 (0.040) 18+ (0.71+) 6+ (0.24+)
1.2 (0.047) 22+ (0.87+) 7+ (0.28+)
1.6 (0.063) 29+ (1.14+) 8+ (0.31+)

When you are making a number of spot welds at once,

be sure to check the spot welder’s settings and allow
adequate space between each weld.

When doing spot welding, check the shape and

condition of the welding electrode tips often.

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Spray Gun - Spray Gun Cleaning & Maintenance

1. Spray Gun Cleaning & Maintenance

If the spray gun is not cleaned after use, the paint residue
hardens clogs the gun. The spray gun may not be able to be
used again, depending on the severity of the clogging. Wash
the paint gun following the below steps after use.

1. Place a scrap rag in front of the air cap and pull the trigger.
The air will blow from the nozzle tip, and pushes paint out.
This will remove the remaining paint from the paint path.

2. Properly dispose of the remaining paint in the cup, then

pour in some paint reducer/thinner for cleaning.

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3. Clean the inside and outside of the spray gun itself using
the specially designed spray gun cleaning brushes.

4. Clean the inside of the paint cup.

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5. Remove the air cap and clean it up with a brush soaked in

paint reducer/thinner.

NOTE: Pay extra attention not to damage the precision air

holes of the air cap! Any damage will have a great impact
on spray pattern. Also, do not use a wire or wire brush to
clean the air cap. If the air hole is clogged, use a
specialized tool for this purpose. If the adhered paint does
not easily come off, soak it in lacquer thinner then try
cleaning again.

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Spray Gun - Spray Gun Connection and Adjustment

1. Spray Gun Connection and Adjustment

Spray Gun Pressure Settings:

Set the spray pressure to appropriate level according to the

paint used and the size of area to be painted.
The air pressure is usually initially adjusted at the regulator,
which may be some distance from the spray gun. Because
of pressure drop caused by the length and diameter of the
air hose, the gun pressure may differ significantly from the
remote regulator. Therefore, best practice requires a
second small air pressure gauge mounted to the spray gun.
Use this second gauge to set the correct spraying pressure.

Air Hose Pressure Drop Calculation Chart

Air Hose Regulator Length of Air Hose, m (ft)

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Inside Pressure 4.5 m 7.5 m 15 m
Diameter (15 ft) (25 ft) (50 ft)
(ID)
mm (in) kPa Pressure at End of Air Hose
(kgf/cm2, kPa (kgf/cm2, psi)
psi)
6 (0.24) 340 (3.5, 260 (2.7, 210 (2.1, 150 (1.5,
50) 38) 30) 22)
410 (4.2, 310 (3.2, 270 (3.2, 190 (1.9,
60) 45) 40) 28)
480 (4.9, 360 (3.7, 320 (3.3, 250 (2.5,
70) 52) 46) 36)
8 (0.31) 340 (3.5, 310 (3.2, 310 (3.2, 270 (2.8,
50) 45) 45) 40)
410 (4.2, 380 (3.9, 370 (3.8, 330 (3.4,
60) 55) 54) 48)
480 (4.9, 440 (4.5, 430 (4.4, 400 (4.1,
70) 64) 62) 58)

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Spray Distance

As the distance of the paint gun from the surface being painted
increases, the spray pattern size increases. The paint film gets
thinner and more paint is lost as overspray. If the paint gun is
too close to the surface being painted, the paint will be applied
too heavily, causing runs. Generally, the recommended
distance for lacquer type paint is approximately 20 cm (8 in),
and approximately 25 cm (10 in) for acrylic urethane type
paint.

In general, the optimum distance between the paint gun and

surface being painted is 15－25 cm (6－10 in).

Spray Pattern Adjustment:

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The spray pattern can be adjusted using the pattern and
fluid adjustment screws on the spray gun.
If the spray pattern has a rough surface or edge, Regulate
the fluid flow using the fluid adjustment screw, or reduce the
air volume by adjusting the air volume adjustment screw.
If the paint runs, reduce the fluid flow rate. Also check the
paint’s viscosity and the paint reducer/thinner’s evaporation
rate.
NOTE: Be sure to check the product specifications issued by
the paint manufacturers as each spray gun has different
settings for the paint patterns and distance.

General Recommended Patterns:

Spot Painting Pattern

Adjust the pattern and fluid flow rate adjustment screws to
create a pattern diameter of 12－13 cm (4.75－5 in) at a
distance of 15－20 cm (6－8 in) away from the surface.

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Overall Painting Pattern

Adjust the pattern and fluid flow rate adjustment screws to
create a pattern diameter of 22－23 cm (8.75－9 in) at a
distance of 15－20 cm (6－8 in) away from the surface.

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Spray Gun - Spray Gun Inspection and Troubleshooting

1. Spray Gun Inspection and Troubleshooting

Defects Cause Countermeasure

Out of air 1. Not enough paint in the paint cup. 1. Add paint.
2. The paint cup is tilted too much. 2. Correct the position.
3. The paint flow path is clogged. 3. Clean with solvent.
4. The paint nozzle deformed or damaged. 4. Close or replace.

Imbalance 1. The air cap angle holes are partially clogged or 1. Clean or replace.
damaged. 2. Clean or replace.
2. Paint or contaminants deposited or damages on 3. Clean.
the tapered joint area of air cap and paint nozzle.
3. Paint or contaminants deposited on the tip of the

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nozzle.

Crescent 1. The air cap angle holes are clogged or damaged, 1. Clean or replace.
or there are paint deposits or other damage inside 2. Clean or replace.
the center hole.
2. Paint or contaminants deposited or other damage
to outside of the nozzle tip.

Oval 1. The bore of the paint nozzle is too large or has 1. Replace.
become worn. 2. Replace.
2. Too much space between the air cap’s center hole 3. Increase air flow and pressure.
and the outside of the nozzle tip became bigger.
4. Reduce viscosity.
3. Low air flow and pressure to the air cap.
4. Paint viscosity too high.

Constriction 1. Air flow and pressure to the air cap’s angle holes 1. Reduce air flow and pressure.
too high. 2. Clean.
2. Paint or contaminants deposited or other damage
to outside of the nozzle tip.

Judging Defect Type of Spray Pattern

Check the spray pattern. Then loosen the air cap and turn it 180 ° and spray again. If both of the spray patterns appear identical,
the problem is contamination on the paint nozzle or a damaged paint nozzle.
If the spray patterns appear reversed, the problem is contamination on the air cap or a damaged air cap.

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Spray Gun - Spray Gun Operation

1. Spray Gun Operation

Spray Angle:

Hold the spray gun so that the nozzle is perpendicular to the painting surface and move the gun in a parallel direction.
The spray gun is must be perfectly level with the surface being painted, so that the spray distances from the top and bottom of
the nozzle tip are the same. If these distances are uneven, an uneven paint film thickness will result.
Correct Operation

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Incorrect Operation

Operation Speed of Spray Gun

Move the spray gun at a constant speed to avoid paint film

unevenness (thick and thin areas).

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Trigger Operation

The travel distance of spray gun (stroke) should be

approximately 5－10 cm (2－4 in) longer than the actual
painting target. At the end of each pass, release the trigger for
a moment and pull again before starting the reversed direction
of travel.

Overlapping Passes

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Spray patterns will have an effective coating area. Outside the
effective coating area, less paint will be applied, causing a
thinner paint film. Maintain an even paint thickness by
overlapping the spray gun passes.

Single and Double Coating

1. Hold the spray gun at the left side of the surface being
painted. Set the starting point of your spray pass outside
the surface by a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of the pattern
diameter. Then spray horizontally towards the right side of
the surface all the way to the edge.

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2. After step 1, move the paint gun lower to the area where
the effective area of the pattern will overlap (1/3 to 1/2 of
the pattern diameter). Then spray horizontally from the right
to the left. This painting method is known as single coating.

3. In comparison, if the same area is overlapped with multiple

paint coats, it is called double coating.

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Gradation

To apply thinner paint coats towards the outside of the repair

center by creating a radial motion with your wrist.

Patch Paint

When painting a large multi-panel surface, follow the gradation coating method to avoid making the overlapped area of paint too
thick.

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Spray Gun - Spray Gun Overview

Structure and Function

One of the most important tools used in collision and paint repair is the spray gun. Their precision construction and proper care
have a great impact on the results of paint application and finish quality. This chapter includes details about spray gun
controls, types, and operation.

Pattern Adjustment Screw

When this screw is rotated fully clockwise, air flows only from the center of cap (T) and the spray pattern would be circular. As
the pattern adjustment screw is turned counter clockwise, air flows through the angle hole (R) and support hole (S). The spray
pattern will gradually become more oval.

Fluid Adjustment Screw

Turning the fluid adjustment screw fully clockwise shuts off paint flow to the gun. Turn the screw counter clockwise to gradually
increase to amount of paint that mixes with the air supply.

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Air Valve and Needle Valve
As the trigger is gradually pulled, the air valve begins to open and allows only air to flow through the spray gun. Pulling the
trigger further operates the needle valve, allowing paint to begin flowing with the air. This two-stage trigger operation improves
paint atomization any time the gun is being used.

Spray Gun Air Cap

The air cap has precision-drilled holes that direct high velocity compressed air. These create a suction that draws paint into the
gun and discharges it from the paint nozzle (N). The paint is then atomized and discharged through the area (C) by the force
of the air and placement of the holes.

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Types

Categorized by the paint supply method

Paint Supply Method Pro and Cons

Gravity Feed System (Cup on Suitable for detailed and precise paint work because
Top) cup angle can be readily adjusted.
The cup’s capacity is generally 500 mL (16.90 fl oz)
The paint cup is located above
or less, so the cup requires frequent refilling.
the paint gun nozzle. The paint
Because of the small cup, gravity fed guns are better
is supplied by gravity acting on
suited to spot painting rather than large surfaces.
the paint and suction at the
nozzle tip. Paint viscosity has little impact on fluid (paint) flow
rate.
Gun must be hung by its hook when not in use
because the cup on top makes it unstable.
Suction Feed System (Cup on Larger paint cups generally require fewer refills, so
Bottom) the gun is more suitable for painting large areas.
Larger paint cup capacity makes the gun heavier.
The paint cup is located
beneath the paint gun nozzle. Paint viscosity does impact fluid (paint) flow rate.
The paint is supplied by
suction at the nozzle tip alone.

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Categorized by the Nozzle Diameter

Diameter Use Characteristics

1.0－1.6 mm Topcoat High atomization performance, relatively thin and homogeneous paint film
(0.040－0.063 suitable for topcoats.
in)
1.5－2.0 mm Basecoat High discharge rate, suitable for basecoats, such as primer surfacer, which
(0.060－0.080 tend to have relatively higher viscosities.
in)

Categorized by the Spray Pattern

There are several different spray patterns based on the nozzle diameter and air cap hole etc.

Spray Pattern Atomization Paint Film Characteristics and Applicable Paint

Thickness
Tulip Type High atomization ensures even application of paint
coats.
Suitable for dual component paints such as

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polyurethane paint, which dries relatively slowly and
metallic paint which can easily be applied unevenly.

Semi-Tulip Type For general purpose applications.

Applies a greater film thickness than the tulip type.
Suitable for dual component solid and clearcoat
polyurethane paint.

Straight Type Suitable for slower drying lacquer type paints and
metallic paint which can easily be applied unevenly.

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Tinting Basics (Mixing Colors) - Basic Color Features

1. Basic Color Features

Light and Colors:

While a very wide spectrum of light rays come from the sun, human eyes can only see the visible rays within a wavelength
range of 380 to 780 nanometers (nm). Light rays with wavelengths shorter than 380 nm are called ultraviolet rays. These
cause deterioration of paint layers and fade colors. Light rays with wavelengths longer than 780 nm are called infrared rays.
Beyond that with even longer wavelengths are far-infrared rays. Both infrared and far-infrared rays are called heat rays.
These are often used for the heat sources of paint dryers and room heaters.
Visible rays in the sunlight look white. When sunlight is passed through a prism, the visible rays become a spectrum of
different colors ranging from red to violet.

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When a visible light ray hits an object and is reflected, the
light ray reaches the human eye and its color is recognized.
If only long wavelength light rays are reflected, the color is
recognized as red. And if only short wavelength light rays
are reflected, the color is recognized as blue.
Colors can be generally divided into two groups, chromatic
colors and non-chromatic colors.
Chromatic colors: Red/Blue/Yellow: colors that have hue or
tint.
Non-chromatic colors: White/Gray/Black: colors that have
no hue or tint.

Three Factors of Colors

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A chromatic color is comprised of three factors: Hue, Value, and Chroma Non-chromatic colors have only one value: Brightness

Hue: The feature that characterizes each color like red, blue, yellow, and green.
Value: The degree of brightness.
Chroma: The degree of freshness, apart from the degrees of hue and value.

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Munsell’s color ring Indication of Colors

Hue Ring
Hue Ring is a ring shaped relative arrangement of ten main
colors. There are five main colors: Red (R), Yellow (Y), Green
(G), Blue (B), and purple (P). Another 5 colors are relatively
placed between the main colors: Yellow red (YR), Yellow green
(GY), Blue green (BG), Blue purple (BP), Red purple (RP).
Each hue is divided into 4 even spaces with an interval of 2.5
and the center is shown at 5.

Munsell color system Munsell color system

Munsell Color System is a color measurement system

introduced by Albert H. Munsell, an American an artist and
professor (1858-1918). In this system, colors are measured in
the three dimensions of Hue, Value, and Chroma. Munsell
published the 1st edition of Munsell Atlas of Color in 1915.
Then he later revised it a few times, and in 1943, he
introduced the revised color system that is still used.

Indicated Code (Munsell Code)

Non-chromatic colors are indicated in N. Chromatic colors are
designated in the order of hue, value and chroma.

Example: N-3
5R 4/10

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where:
5R: Hue; 4: Value; 10: Chroma

Accurate paint color mixing cannot be attained using only the

Munsell code. Always use actual color samples.

Complementary Color:

In the Hue Ring, the two colors located directly opposite

from each other are termed as complementary colors. If red

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and blue green, or yellow and blue purple are mixed in an
appropriate ratio, they turn out to be a non- chromatic color.
It is possible to use the relationship of complementary
colors in order to weaken a color’s degree of the hue. This
can be done by adding a small amount of its
complementary color. Because the color may become
slightly muddy or hard to return to original, this is not
recommended.

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Tinting Basics (Mixing Colors) - Color Mixing Tools and Equipment

1. Color Mixing Tools and Equipment

In order to mix paint colors as needed accurately and quickly,

the following tools and equipment are necessary.

Color Mixing Containers:

According to the amount of paints needed, prepare several

cans or plastic containers sized from 0.2－18 L (6.76 fl
oz－4.76 gal).
Plastic disposable containers are used most often.

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Stirring Sticks, Spatula:

There are also some stirring sticks combined with spatulas.

Depending upon the amount of paint required, select the
proper lengths and sizes.
Both plastic and metal types are available.

Test Plates

Tinplate, thick papers or magnetic sheets. Used for paint

match testing to check color combinations

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Agitator Covers:

Used to prevent the solvent content in the paint from

evaporating. It helps easy stirring and pouring of paint. It is
absolutely necessary for measured color mixing.
Stainless steel is used for covers designed for water-based
paint, to prevent corrosion.

Paint Stirring Machine

Electrically powered shelf which enables to stir multiple paint

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containers at once.

Color Mixing Scale

Microcomputer scale offers multiple functions and accurate

measurement for mixing colors. It should measure up to 6 kg
(13.23 lb) in increments of 0.1 kg (0.22 lb). The scale can also
be used for mixing dual-component paint and paint
reducer/thinner.

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Color Mixing Light

This light offers a wavelength distribution very close to natural

sunlight and is suitable for mixing colors indoors.

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Tinting Basics (Mixing Colors) - Colorimetry

1. Colorimetry

Example of mechanical color measuring device Comparison of two different colors is Colorimetry, which is very
(Computerized color measuring machine) important for paint repair. There are two methods to do
Colorimetry. One is visual comparison and the other is by
using a colorimeter. During paint repair, especially for metallic
and pearl colors, it is extremely difficult to use a mechanical
device to accurately measure color. The visual approach is
most common in shops.

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Visual Color Colorimetry:

Vehicles are viewed under all sorts of light sources

including the sunlight, florescent light, mercury lamp, etc.
The repaired color on a car body must be perfectly matched
with the surrounding color under any light source.
Therefore, the mixed color must be compared under all
possible light sources.
The color of the light source is stipulated by CIE
(Committee of International Electric Lighting).

A light source: Electric light equivalent to that of a tungsten

electric bulb.
B light source: Light equivalent to that of the direct sunlight at
noontime.
C light source: Daylight including the light from the blue sky.
D65 light source: Artificial light equivalent to the light at
noontime.
(Source) CIE light sources

Color Viewing Angle

When comparing colors, it is not sufficient to check the color

only from one particular angle. For metallic and pearl colors in
particular, the color will look different according to the direction
of sight. Always check colors from different angles.

Angles to check and their terms

Check basic colors from the following angles:
Front (straight ahead)

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At a 45 ° angle
Side (at 15 ° angle)

Outside Conditional Identical Color (Metamerism):

A phenomenon where two different colors look the same

under a certain light source. This phenomenon occurs
because of the spectral diffraction between the two colors.
To avoid errors caused by this phenomenon, always use
the same color pigments as those used in the color
samples.
In order to confirm whether the colors are conditionally
identical or not, compare the colors under the natural light
(outdoors), and then again under the florescent and/or
infrared lights (indoors).

Inside

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Flip-Flop Phenomenon

A phenomenon where two colors that look the same from a

certain angle are seen differently when viewed from different
angles. This phenomenon is caused by the differences in the
levels of transparency caused by the kinds and sizes of
pigment used.

It often happens that the two colors look the same when
viewed straight ahead, but different when viewed at an angle.

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Tinting Basics (Mixing Colors) - Primary Color Characteristics

When mixing colors, it is important to recognize the characteristics of primary colors in whitening, transparency, and weather
resistance, etc. Unless the problems of conditionally identical colors and the directions of metallic colors are well understood,
correct colors matching is unlikely.

White Mixing of Primary Colors

The hue produced when white is mixed to a primary color is called ‘‘Whitened tint’’ of the color. It is very important to
understand the nature of tone and its direction of the primary colors, particularly for mixing metallic base with primary colors,
and mixing primary colors with white.

Transparency

The transparency of a certain color depends upon the amount of pigment in the primary color, but more than that, upon the
size of pigment particles. Even if the same pigments are used, the more transparent it is, the finer the size of the pigments are.

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Transparency level is one of the main factors effecting the direction of the metallic color.

Weather Resistance

Most primary colors have good weather resistance. But they can also fade quickly if incorrectly handled.

Bleeding

Bleeding is a phenomenon in which the old paint layers’ color blots into the newly painted surface.

Bronzing

Bronzing is a phenomenon in which a golden metallic luster appears on the surface of a newly painted layer. It tends to occur
when blue or green colors are used without being diluted mixed other colors or liquid.

1. Primary Color Characteristics

Metallic Base

Metallic paint has tiny dispersed aluminum particles. There are

many types of metallic paints. When shooting metallic colors, it
is important to understand their characteristics such as
direction, size of particles, luster, brightness, whiteness, etc. It
is also extremely important to compare the color from various
angles and under different light sources.
Pearl Base:

A special kind of paint containing pigments with pearl luster

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(pearl pigments). There are many different kinds depending

upon colors, size of pigment particles, etc. When mixing
paint, the most appropriate pearl base must be used that
corresponds to the color sample
There are two methods of applying pearl paints, three-coat
pearl painting and the two-coat pearl painting. Unlike
normal metallic painting, deep tone color layers can be
achieved, depending upon the luster and tint of the pearl
pigments

Three-Coat Pearl Painting

This paint is a compound of base colors and pigments with

pearl luster. The paint layer visible to the eyes is comprised of
color base, pearl base, and clear base.

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Two-Coat Pearl Painting

This paint is a compound of pearl pigments, chromatic

pigments and aluminum power. The paint layers are the same
as standard metallic colors.

Differences between pearl pigments and

aluminum pigments

Pearl Pigments
Mica is a colorless and translucent mineral with pearl-like
luster. It has been widely used for cosmetic products. The
pearl pigments used for vehicles includes mica filmed with
titanium oxide to give brightness. The pearl pigments used in
pearl paint, are also called mica paint.

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Aluminum Pigments
Aluminum foil is powdered and ground into a fine flake form,
and it gives brightness in the paint film by reflecting light.
There are many sizes in aluminum flake particles (mostly 10 to
20 μm) available. The larger flakes provide a more garish
brightness and the smaller flakes provide a smoother
brightness.

Graphite color Graphite Base:

Graphite pigment is one of the graphite allotropes. It has

been traditionally used as a pigment for flexible primer for
plastic parts. However it is now also widely used in paint
topcoat colors.
The particle size of graphite is almost 5 times of a carbon

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pigment, which is widely used for black. In spite of its dark
gray luster, the gap between particles is too large to have a
high covering capability.

Comparison between graphite color and metallic color

When viewed from straight ahead, metallic or pearl shininess
is visible in low light over the whole for metallic or two-coat
pearl paint. Mixed with graphite pigment and viewed from low
angles, its luminosity becomes much lower and deeper with
Metallic color less brightness and shine.

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M.I.O. Base

MIO (micaceous iron oxide) is a ferric oxide of a crystal

structure of size 15μm. This pigment has unique features that
are not shared with the conventional pigments as follows:
It is very thick (almost ten times that of aluminum pigment)
and reflects light on its side surface strongly.
The paint surface is very smooth and reflects light strongly.
When exposed to light, it shines strongly and three
dimensionally like a diamond.
Its drawback is that, because of its heavy specific gravity, it
tends to be deposited in the paint.
Indoors or in shade, it appears to be a dark and deep solid
color. However under direct sunlight, it shines like many
diamonds buried under the paint’s surface. Because of this
unique feature, this color cannot be accurately mixed using
a metallic or pearl base substitute.

Opal White

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Though the composition of pigments are the same as that for
ordinary white paints, this paint is translucent as the titanium
dioxide pigment’s size is very small. Because of this, coverage
capacity is limited. It is normally used as opal base (opal
color), with other colors or mixed with aluminum pigments.

Features of Opal Color

This paint has the same paint layer structure as that of metallic
paints with fine grain titanium (micro titanium) used as a base
coat. When this paint is applied, the yellowish metallic base
color is seen from straight ahead. When viewed from a low
angle sideways, it looks bluish. As a whole, it has a charm of a
two-color opal tone

Crystal Blue (Phthalocyanine Flake Pigment)

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The phthalocyanine pigment used as ordinary blue color is

crystallized and flaked for this crystal blue pigment. The light
reflected on the surface shines like bronze and light penetrated
through the paint surface reflects blue.

Crystal Brown (Plate-Like Iron Oxide Pigment)

The main component of this pigment is a flake-like iron oxide

that is also used for red rust colored pigment. It is thin and
shines like pearl mica.

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Water-Based Paint Application - Air Pollution

1. Air Pollution

Photochemical Oxidant Emissions

Photochemical oxidant (ozone) is a secondary contaminant

generated by the photochemical reaction through solar
exposure. The primary contaminant, which contains NOx and
VOC as a main component, is emitted from factories and
vehicles into air. It has been proven that photochemical
oxidants are harmful to human health.

*VOC (volatile organic compounds) is a collective term for

organic compounds such as toluene, xylene, ethyl acetate and
many other substances. These VOC vapors travel through the
air.

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Water-Based Paint Application - Reduction of VOC

1. Reduction of VOC

Variety of activities to reduce VOC which is a cause of

photochemical oxidant emission is carried out by the wide
range of business fields globally. Paint suppliers are not an
exception. They have introduced products such as high-solids
type paint and solvent-free borne paint. Honda, along with the
rest of the automotive industry, has adopted use of borne base
coats in production.

NOTE: VOC Level Regulations Vary by Country

Europe has the strictest standards because of shared borders

and critical air pollution issues.

The collision repair industry has also moved toward

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widespread adoption of borne paint in order to further reduce
VOC emissions.

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Air Compressor

Most collision repair shops should have no problem handling water-based paint. However, water-based paint is much more
sensitive to air quality than the solvent-based type. Contaminated compressed air may cause paint defects. Be sure to
maintain the air compressor and supply pipes thoroughly and use well-maintained water and oil separators.

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Other Tools

1. Other Tools

Paint Strainer

Normal paint strainers use water-soluble glue and may come

apart during use. Choose a paint strainer specifically designed
for water-based paint.

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Gun Cleaner:

Water-based paint residue is much harder to remove than

solvent- based paint residue. A special high pressure spray
gun cleaner is required for water-based paint. Use care
when using solvent or other cleaning agents for cleaning
spray guns as it may cause paint residue buildup inside the
gun.
The water used for cleaning should be filtered and reused
where possible. Dispose of cleaning water according to
local regulations.

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Paint Booth

1. Paint Booth

Converting a traditional paint booth into the one that can handle water-based paint requires additional equipment to generate a
strong flow of air inside the booth. Dedicated water-based paint booths are more expensive, with fewer choices available. Some
have intake and exhaust fan motors to increase internal air velocity. Others have blowers that mount to the booth ceiling or walls.
It is also possible to install a fan inside a traditional paint booth to create the required air flow. In all cases, confirm the spec
information issued by suppliers and select the most appropriate equipment.

Paint Booth for Water-Based Paint (Example)

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Paint Drying Equipment

1. Paint Drying Equipment

Portable dryers used to dry small to mid-size painted surfaces.

Blower Attachment

It can be used anywhere an air hose and gun are available,

Capable of drying small repaired areas of 1 or 2 panels.

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Handy-Type Blow Gun

Use by hand or with a stand. Capable of drying small repaired

areas of 1 or 2 panels.

With a Stand (Example)

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Electrical Resistance Heater/Blower

Uses carbon-based heating elements with air blown across

them by an electric blower motor. Suitable for drying mid-sized
paint repair areas.

NOTE: Be sure to confirm the product spec issued by the paint

manufacturers for drying temperature.

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Paint Storage and Handling

1. Paint Storage and Handling

Water-based paint may freeze at low temperatures. It is no

longer usable if frozen.
Avoid direct sunlight and store in a low humidity area with a
temperature range of 41－95 °F (5－35 °C). In areas where
the temperature drops below 41 °F (5 °C) a heated storage
area may be required.
The ideal storage temperature is the same as for painting
68－77 °F (20－25 °C).
In order to avoid paint quality deterioration due to corrosion,
store the paint in plastic containers, or steel ones with
anti-corrosion coating.
Water-based paint is highly resistant to pigment and resin
separation, but always stir it thoroughly before use.
There is no special fire prevention precautions when using
water- based paint. Its ignition point is much higher than

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solvent-based paint.
Handling and storage methods may differ depending upon
paint type. Refer to product spec issued by the paint
manufacturer.

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Water-Based Paint Repair Tools and Equipment - Spray Gun

1. Spray Gun

Spray guns used for water-based paint should not be used

for solvent- based paint.
Generally, use a high volume low pressure (HVLP) type
spray gun for water-based paint.
HVLP type is designed to be eco-friendly by operating at
lower pressures than a conventional spray gun. This
creates less overspray, reducing VOC emissions.
Different nozzle diameters and cup volumes are
commercially available. Select the best suitable spec for the
work being done.

*HVLP Type is a high-flow-rate/low-pressure spray gun which

offers superior paint adhesion capabilities. Normal spray guns
only apply 20－30% of the paint sprayed to a surface. HVLP
spray guns apply 65% of the paint sprayed higher. Less paint

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volume is required when using a HVLP type gun, reducing
material costs.

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Welding Equipment - Panel Replacement & Crimping Tools

1. Panel Replacement & Crimping Tools

Steel Hole Punch:

Used to make holes for MAG plug welding.

Reduces time required for making holes – No drilling.
Makes burr-free holes.
There are two types; manual type and air type.
May be difficult to use on some higher strength steels.

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Hemming Tool:

Used for hemming work for outer door panels.

Expertise or high skills not required.
Clean finish.

Hemming Pliers:

Used for wheel arch area when replacing rear outer panels.
Flanging work easily done.
Air powered versions available.

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Welding Equipment - Welder

1. Welder

MAG/MIG Welder:

Used for MAG welding or MIG brazing of steel panels or

aluminum.
A high quality weld can be achieved because shielding gas
prevents oxidization and nitriding, reducing distortion.
Because welding can be done only from one side, the
range of application is wide.

The shielding gas used varies depending on the

welding or brazing type.

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Squeeze-Type Resistance Spot Welder

(STRSW):

Used to clamp and weld steel panels.

Because the time required for welding is short and heat
application is localized, heat affect zone (HAZ) and
distortion are minimal.
Required when welding with ultra high strength steels (>980
MPa)
Also good for welding thin panels.
Faster and more efficient than MAG plug welding.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Butt Welding

1. Butt Welding

1. Grooving

If thickness is less than 3 mm (0.12 in):

There is no need to chamfer the edges of the plates. Butt
the work pieces together without a gap.

If thickness is more than 3 mm (0.12 in):

Use a disk grinder, or course file (rough, vixen file) to
make a V-groove, or chamfer, along the mating line
(V-shape grooving).
Smooth the ground surface using a disk sander (P80)
or fine file.
With a V-groove, back beads are easily formed.

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When thickness is 3 mm (0.12 in) or less: 2. Cleaning and removal of oxidized layer:

Remove contamination and oil content from the area to

be welded using degreaser.
Sand off paint film using a disk sander (P80).
Remove the oxidized layer using a stainless wire brush.

Remove oxidized layer from the hatched areas.

When thickness is 3 mm (0.12 in) or more:

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3. Tack welding:

Basically same as the welding of steel panels. Tack

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welding is required to reduce distortion for precision of
the welded joint.
Weld short beads at several places. The thinner the
panel, the smaller the welding pitch. Do not weld the
end or corner of the work piece.

FORWARD WELDING 4. Main welding:

Clean the welding area with a stainless wire brush just

before welding.
Hold and tilt the torch 5 to 15 degrees then weld along
the mating line and use a push or forward welding
technique.
While checking the tip-to-work clearance, torch angle
and penetration, adjust torch feed speed.
As your welding skill improves, you can increase the
torch feed speed using high power (current). Such
quick welding reduces heat transfer into the work and
minimizes distortion.
When welding thin panels, burn through can be
prevented by using a skip or stitch welding technique.
If the welding equipment has a stitch mode, use it for
stitch welding.

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5. Filling a crater:

Stop the torch once you reach the end of welding bead
and fill in the crater.
Stop and start the arc repeatedly to fill up a crater that
occurs at the end of a welding bead.

6. Distortion-free welding
Similar to welding steel panels, a large distortion occurs
when excessive heat is applied to aluminum alloy work
pieces. The thinner the panel, the more distortion occurs.
Refer to the steel panel welding for tips on distortion-free
welding.

7. Be sure to check for cracks after welding.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Butt Welding Defects and Causes

1. Butt Welding Defects and Causes

If you make a defective weld, use the chart below to quickly determine the cause. Then make the required correction(s) that will
achieve optimum results.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Fillet Welding

1. Fillet Welding

Fillet welding is used to join panels of different thickness or

when added strength is required.

1. Cleaning and removal of oxidized layer:

Remove contamination and oil content from the area to

be welded using degreaser.
Sand off paint film using a disk sender (P80).
Remove the oxidized layer using a stainless wire brush.
Remove oxidized layer from the hatched areas.

2. Upper and lower panels must be positioned tightly against

each other.

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3. Welding:

Clean the welding area with a stainless wire brush just

before welding.
In fillet welding, penetration occurs quickly at the edge
of the upper panel and slowly in the middle of the lower
panel.
The current should be slightly lower than for butt
welding. Check for proper penetration through lower
plate while welding.

Weld while holding the torch with an angle

(approximately 10 degrees) against the welded surface.
In particular, when the thickness is different between
the upper and lower panels, pay extra attention to the
penetration condition while welding.

The beads should be of the same height as the panel

thickness or slightly higher. When the thickness of the
upper and lower panels is different, adjusting to the thin
panel helps to reduce distortion.

Weld intermittently.

4. Be sure to check for cracks after welding.

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FORWARD WELDING

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Fillet Welding Defects and Causes

1. Fillet Welding Defects and Causes

If you make a defective weld, use the chart below to quickly determine the cause. Then make the required correction(s) that will
achieve optimum results.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - General Information

Due to the high heat conductivity of aluminum alloy, the heat generated from the electric current and contact resistance
dissipates quickly. This makes spot welding unsuitable for repair of aluminum panels. To spot-weld aluminum alloy, an
extremely strong current of well over ten thousand amperes is required. For that reason, ‘‘MIG welding” must be used to weld
an aluminum alloy automobile body.

MIG Welding

MIG welding is a gas metal arc welding (GMAW) method where an electric arc forms between the consumable welding wire
and the work piece, which heats and melts the wire and work piece, welding them together. During welding, inert argon
shielding gas is supplied from a gas cylinder protect the welding area from atmospheric gases such as nitrogen and oxygen.
The welding wire is automatically fed at a constant sped, based on the welder settings.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - MIG Welding Conditions

1. Welding Equipment

Welding Equipment:

Must provide a maximum current of approximately 200 A.

Should allow dual purpose MIG welding of aluminum alloy
and MAG welding of steel by changing attachments.
Most often used welding panels are 1.6 to 3.0 mm thick, but
this depends on a skill level of the welder. Some newer
equipment allows welding of panels of less than 1 mm
thickness.

Refer to the welding equipment product specifications

issued by the manufacturers.

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Welding Wire:

Use a wire specified for MIG welding. Select an appropriate

wire which results in the desired qualities (defect, strength,
toughness, corrosion resistance etc.).

NOTE: The electrode wire for Honda/Acura’s aluminum alloy

vehicle body should be with a diameter of 0.8 to 1.2 mm
depending on the thickness of the work pieces.

Shielding Gas:

100% argon gas must be used.

2. MIG Welding Conditions

Welding Conditions (reference):

Thickness mm (in) 1.6 (0.063) 2.0 (0.079) 2.5 (0.098) 3.0 (0.12) 5.0 (0.2)
Wire diameter 0.8 (0.031) 0.8-1.0 1.0-1.2 ← ←
mm (in) (0.031-0.040) (0.040-0.047)
Current (A) 50-70 60-110 80-120 100-140 120-170
Voltage (V) 10.0-11.0 12.0-15.0 13.0-16.0 15.0-18.0 17.0-20.0
Gas Volume L/min 15-18 (32-38) ← 17-20 (36-42) ← 10-20 (21-42)
(CFH) 100% Ar

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Plug Welding

1. Plug Welding

1. Removal and installation of aluminum parts:

Drill and remove the spot weld nugget using a 10 mm

(0.39 in) diameter spot weld cutter.
For welding use the hole drilled when removing, or drill
a new plug hole (Φ8-10 mm ( 0.31-0.39 in)).

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2. Cleaning and removal of aluminum surface oxidization
layer:

Remove contamination and oil residue from the area to

be welded using degreaser.
Sand off paint film using a disk sander (P80).
Remove the oxidized layer using a stainless wire brush.

3. Firmly clamp the two panels being welded together. If there

is excessive clearance, the weld will be defective.

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4. Plug Welding:

Clean the area to be welded with a stainless wire brush

just before welding to remove any oxidation.
Use plug welding technique, starting from outside.
Start from about 15 mm (0.59 in) outside of the hole to
preheat the area and ensure confirmation of adequate
penetration.
When starting, hold the torch firmly and place your
body in a comfortable, supported position which also
allows a clear view of the welding area.
While checking for the penetration status, move the
torch along the edge of the hole.
If you are new to aluminum plug welding, be careful not
to allow excessive tip-to-work clearance.

Welding Double Layer (Two-Stack Panels):

Weld while aiming the torch at the edge of the hole on the
mating surface between the upper and lower panels.
Check penetration:

－ Depth of penetration should be 1/2-2/3 of the

thickness of the bottom plate.
Ripples or beads (round marks) appearing on the back
－
surface are a proof of adequate penetration.

Welding Triple Layer (Three-Stack Panels):

Weld the mating surface of the middle panel and the lower
panel.

5. Be sure to check for cracks after welding.

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Welding on Aluminum Alloy Bodies - Welding Precautions

1. Welding Precautions

The welding conditions for aluminum alloy must be set

correctly and adjusted precisely during welding, because
the allowable thickness range is rather limited when
compared to welding steel panels.
Compared to welding of steel panels, about 50% more
shielding gas is required.
When setting up the welding wire to the welding equipment,
clean up the wire tip (edge) using sandpaper and push the
wire through the torch by hand.

Care should be taken to avoid damaging the inner

liner of the welder’s cable.

Drive roller tension must be adjusted lower than when

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welding with steel wire. Hold the wire lightly at the contact
tip and adjust the tension to allow slippage of the wire at the
drive roller when the torch switch is turned on. If the drive
roller tension is excessive, the wire can “bird’s nest”, or
FORWARD WELDING become jammed. Insufficient tension causes inconsistent
wire speed.
The wire feed speed is typically higher than when welding
steel panels.
The tip-to work clearance should basically be the same as
when welding steel panels 8-15 mm (0.31-0.59 in).
Use a push or forward welding technique with a torch of 5
to 15 degrees from the right angle against the work surface.

Aluminum alloy tends to spatter during welding.

Since it is very light, the weld spatter can be
thrown over a considerable distance. Aluminum
weld spatter is also difficult to see.
It is important to provide protection for both the
welder and also anyone in the surrounding areas.
The edge of torch nozzle and contact tip attract
spatter easily. If the spatter deposits, it disturbs the
shield gas flow resulting in a poor welding quality.
Be sure to remove the spatter thoroughly using
anti- adhesion agent.
The ware of torch nozzle and contact tip will be
more excessive compared to the steel welding.

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