Man’s Cloth, c.

1920 –70, made by the Ewe or Adangme culture, Ghana or Togo Armlet, 1500s, made in the Benin Kingdom, Nigeria
 Compare and Connect
•  hat are some similarities and differences between the patterns featured on the carved ivory armlet and the woven cotton cloth?
W
How does the material and process used in the making of these patterned artworks influence the final designs that we see?
Education
•
Are there certain patterns that are better suited for the surface of a cylinder of ivory versus a two-dimensional woven cloth?
philamuseum.org/education • What are some things that an artist can do when working with ivory that can’t be done when working with textiles, and vice versa?

About the Artwork Man’s Cloth About the Artwork Armlet

c. 1920 –70 1500s
Ewe (ay-vay) woven cloths are typically worn for This intricately carved armlet was made for an Oba (king) of the Benin Kingdom and is
important events such as funerals, puberty rites, Strip-woven cotton plain an incredible example of the skill of ivory carvers of the 1500s. It was one of a pair that Ivory
weddings, and in celebration of newborns. Cloths weave (warp-faced and would have been worn on special occasions. Decorated with a repeating pattern of men Size: 5 1/16 × 3 5/8 × 3
like this one are handmade, labor intensive, and balanced) with continuous with mudfish feet grabbing fierce crocodiles by the tails, the armlet was originally adorned 9/16 inches
quite expensive. They serve as both status
supplementary wefts and with metal decorations that fit into the rounded shield-like shapes that fall in between the (12.8 × 9.2 × 9 cm)
weft-faced rib weave
symbols and symbols of identity for wearers. figures; the metal decorations were held in place by the four raised ivory pegs that are still Made in the
When worn by men, the cloths are wrapped Size: 10 feet 8 1/2 inches visible. In Benin, mudfish are a symbol of wealth and power and can be found decorating Benin Kingdom
around the body and draped over the shoulder, × 6 feet 9 inches (326.4 × many royal objects. In this design, the strength and power of the Oba is symbolized by Nigeria
much like a toga, and fall evenly to the wearer’s 205.7 cm) the men who dominate the powerful crocodiles. Ivory comes from the tusks of elephants
Penn Museum, Philadelphia: Purchased from the estate
ankles (see photo on the right). Women may wear Made by the Ewe or and is soft enough to carve but is still very strong and long lasting. The curved cylindrical of George Byron Gordon. Image courtesy of the Penn
Museum, Image #6188
the cloths in many different ways: wrapped under Adangme culture shape of this tusk influenced the carver’s design and lent itself perfectly to making a
their arms leaving both shoulders bare, as a skirt Ghana or Togo bracelet. The carvings are deliberately shallow in an effort to minimize waste of such a
over which a blouse is worn, as a wrap around precious material.
Philadelphia Museum of Art: Purchased with funds
their necks, or in the toga-like way that men do. contributed by donors to the Costume and Textiles
A treasured material both in Africa and throughout Europe, Obas amassed great
Look Closely Look Again
Revolving Fund, 2001-170-3

A typical man’s cloth is made up of many thin, wealth trading ivory with Europeans. In the Benin Kingdom the power of the Oba was
woven strips, each four to eight inches wide. This expressed through his absolute control of this highly valued material. Benin artists carved •  an you find the men, mudfish, and
C •  ollow the pattern of the mudfish, the
F
particular cloth is constructed from twenty-two About the Ewe Weaving Tradition ivory objects for sale to both Europeans and Africans alike. The ivory that remained in crocodiles in the pattern? men’s arms, and the crocodiles. How
individual strips sewn together on their long the kingdom was used in a number of different ways. Tusks were carved with decorative • How would you describe the shape in does the pattern lead your eye around
edges, which are called selvages. These strips Though we do not know the identity of the person who made this cloth, there is much patterns and placed on altars in the royal palace, or were cut down into smaller pieces to between the men and animals? the armlet?
are carefully joined to create an impressively we know about the weaving tradition of the Ewe people. Colorful, geometrically pat- be made into jewelry and objects that were used in religious rituals. • At first the carved decoration on the
regular pattern, which when taken as a whole terned cloths like this one are most commonly known as kente (ken-tay) cloth. Produced armlet appears very regular. But is it
gives a checkered appearance. In addition to by both the Ewe and Asante (ah-SHAHN-tee), these cloths are worn by men and women as regular as it appears? Follow the
changing colors and patterns in the cloth, weav- on special occasions. The Ewe people live in the present-day West African republics of pattern and look for places where
ers can switch between different weave struc- Ghana, Togo, and Benin, and are well known throughout the region for the fine quality the men, mudfish, and crocodiles are
tures to add variation to the pattern. Tighter of their weavings. Men weave the cloths, while women spin and dye the cotton thread. shown in different positions.
weave structures create narrower strips while Women are responsible for selling the cloths at market and often name them after the
looser structures create wider strips. The weaver different patterns featured on the cloths. Unfortunately the name given to this particular
of this cloth chose to regularly switch between
Installation shot of Creative Africa: Threads of Tradition,
showing a popular way men wear cloths. This poster’s example is not known. In the past fifty About the Benin Kingdom
Man’s Cloth can be seen behind the mannequin.
different weave structures, creating patterned years, kente cloth patterns have become
The Benin Kingdom was a pre-colonial empire located in what is now southern Nigeria.
strips that have a wavy rather than straight edge. fashionable on both sides of the Atlantic
The capitol city was Edo, called Benin City today. Though little is known about the origins
Ocean. While true kente cloths are hand-
of this powerful kingdom, much is known about the period of political consolidation,
woven and made in Africa, mass-produced
wealth, and expansion of the 1400s. During this time Edo was fortified with an impressive
printed kente cloth patterns have become
network of walls and moats, and military campaigns rapidly expanded the kingdom. Benin
Look Closely Look Again popular throughout the world.
became highly organized and powerful, and was admired by both European travelers and
• How many differently patterned • W
 hat words would you use to The first step in weaving a cloth like this neighboring African nations for its art. The kingdom’s wealth continued to grow through
strips can you find in this cloth? describe the colors and patterns is to set up a loom. Ewe looms are simple, trade with the Portuguese and Dutch; common trade items included ivory and palm oil.
of this cloth? moveable devices that can be easily Descendants of the Obas still occupy the throne in Benin City and serve an advisory role
• Based on the width of the strips,
assembled and disassembled. To make to the government to this day.
can you tell where the weaver has • N
 ow imagine what name you would
chosen to use a tighter or looser give to this pattern. How does the the individual strips, the weaver must first
In the late 1800s, Great Britain attempted to convince the kingdom to sign a treaty
weave structure? name you have chosen relate to lay out the lengthwise (warp) threads on
that would have placed it under British rule. The Obas resisted signing such a treaty,
everything that you see when you the loom. Weavers then wind the different
• At first the cloth appears to have a and responded by capturing and killing eight British representatives. In 1897 the British
look at the cloth? colored threads on to bobbins; this is
very regular pattern. But is it as regular retaliated with a devastating military raid known as the Benin Punitive Expedition, during
usually done by children as young as five
as it first appears? Follow the lines of which the entire city of Edo was razed and burned. Much of the kingdom’s treasured art
who are just learning to weave. The bobbins
the design and look for places where was destroyed and over 2,000 works of art were taken by the British and sold in Europe
with different colored threads are then
the weaver has changed or departed at auction. Today these works are in museums and collections around the world.
passed under and over the lengthwise
from the pattern. threads of the warp, creating the desired
pattern. In weaving, the thread that is
pulled through the warp thread to create
the woven pattern is called the weft.
Right: Ewe weavers in Ghana, 2008, photographs taken by Carol
Ventura (www.carolventura.com)

The Philadelphia Museum of Art has been supported by an Advancement grant from The Pew Center for Arts & Heritage. Creative Africa is made possible by the Institute of
Museum and Library Services, The Arlin and Neysa Adams Endowment Fund, The Kathleen C. and John J. F. Sherrerd Fund for Exhibitions, Julia and Gene Ericksen, Osagie
and Losenge Imasogie, Dr. and Mrs. John T. Williams, and a generous anonymous donor.

Look Again: Contemporary Perspectives on African Art is organized by the Philadelphia Museum of Art in cooperation with the Penn Museum.
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