93
The sumptuously decorated Cappella Nero’s great gift to himself. Built after the
Sistina, last on the right, was built by Do- fire of AD 64 and named after the gold that
menico Fontana in the 16th century and covered its facade, it was a huge complex
contains the tombs of Popes Sixtus V and covering up to a third of the city, but it’s esti-
Pius V. mated that only around 20% remains of the
Through the souvenir shop on the right- original complex.
hand side of the church is a museum with
Piazza della Repubblica PIAZZA
Rome & L a zio S
a glittering, if slightly dull, collection of
religious artifacts. More interesting is the (Map p94; m Repubblica) Flanked by grand
upper loggia where you’ll get a closer look neoclassical colonnades, this landmark
at the iridescent 13th-century mosaics on piazza was laid out as part of Rome’s 19th-
the southeast facade. century post-unification makeover. It fol-
lows the lines of the semicircular exedra
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli BASILICA (benched portico) of Diocletian’s baths
R IioG
(Map p68; Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4a; h 8am- complex and was originally known as Pi-
gmH
12.30pm & 3-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar; m Ca- azza Esedra.
hts
eT S
vour) Pilgrims and art lovers flock to this 5th-
century church for two reasons: to marvel oMuseo Nazionale Romano:
at Michelangelo’s macho Moses sculpture Palazzo Massimo alle Terme MUSEUM
and to see the chains that bound St Peter (Map p94; % 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.
when he was imprisoned in the Carcere it; Largo di Villa Peretti 1; adult/reduced €7/3.50;
Mamertino. h 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun; m Termini) One of
The church was built specially to house Rome’s great unsung heroes, this fabu-
these shackles, which had been sent to Con- lous museum is a treasure trove of classi-
stantinople after the saint’s death but were cal art and sculpture. The ground and 1st
later returned as relics. They arrived in two floors are devoted to sculpture, with some
pieces and legend has it that when they were breathtaking pieces. These include the
reunited they miraculously joined together. 2nd-century BC Greek bronze, the Pugile
They are now displayed under the altar. (Boxer), a crouching Aphrodite from Villa
To the right of the altar, Michelangelo’s Adriana, the graceful 2nd-century BC
colossal Moses (1505) forms the centrepiece Ermafrodite dormiente (Sleeping
of his unfinished tomb for Pope Julius II. Hermaphrodite), and the idealised Il dis-
The prophet strikes a muscular pose with cobolo (Discus Thrower).
well-defined biceps, a magnificent waist- However, it’s the rich, vivid frescoes on
length beard and two small horns sticking the 2nd floor that are the undoubted high-
out of his head. These were inspired by a light. These vibrantly coloured panels il-
mistranslation of a biblical passage: where lustrate a range of natural, mythological,
the original said that rays of light issued domestic and erotic themes, as appropriate
from Moses’ face, the translator wrote to the rooms they were originally placed
‘horns’. Michelangelo was aware of the mis- in. There are intimate cubicula (bedroom)
take, but gave Moses horns anyway. Flank- frescoes featuring religious, erotic and
ing Moses are statues of Leah and Rachel, theatrical subjects, and delicate land-
probably completed by Michelangelo’s scape paintings from the triclinium (din-
students. ing room). Particularly breathtaking are
The tomb, despite its imposing scale, was the frescoes (dating from 30 BC to 20 BC)
never completed – Michelangelo originally from Villa Livia, one of the homes of Au-
envisaged 40 statues but got sidetracked by gustus’ wife Livia Drusilla. These cover an
the Sistine Chapel – and Julius was buried in entire room and depict a paradisiacal gar-
St Peter’s Basilica. den full of roses, pomegranates, irises and
Access to the church is via a flight of steps camomile under a deep-blue sky. They once
through a low arch that leads up from Via decorated a summer triclinium, a large liv-
Cavour. ing and dining area that had been built half
underground to provide protection from
Domus Aurea ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE the heat.
(Map p97; % 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; There are also some exquisitely fine mo-
Viale della Domus Aurea; h closed for restoration; saics and rare inlay work on this floor.
m Colosseo) A monumental exercise in van- In the basement, the unexciting sounding
ity, the Domus Aurea (Golden House) was coin collection is far more absorbing than
