Happy Raccoon

By Kim Ethridge
Here’s another free pattern to make your very own little fat happy raccoon. Let’s face it, raccoons are
super cute! These fat, furry little guys are just as adorable as Baby Yoda, in my opinion anyway.
Wouldn’t it be awesome to have one of your own and be able to pet it and everything? Well now you
can! Without the animal bites, the dumped over trash cans, or possible rabies even! This little guy will
be happy to hog up some room on your desk, shelf, bed, wherever. And, best of all, he doesn’t eat
much!

Some of the pieces will be brushed with a pet slicker brush or a wire brush that can be obtained from
the hardware section to make them fuzzy or furry in appearance. See pictures for reference. Use caution
when brushing so you don’t make the same mistake I did and carelessly brush your fingers. Brush each
piece specified until it’s fuzzy enough to hide the stitches. For best results, work in small areas at a time
and brush from different directions before moving on to the next area. Then, give the entire piece
another brushing all over. For reference, the pieces in each picture were made using acrylic yarn. Other
yarns, such as wool, can also be used. I just prefer to use acrylic because it’s cheap and I have it on hand
already. I highly recommend pinning pieces in place before stitching. It really helps with placement and
holding each piece in place while you stitch.

If you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a quick email at ethridge101@yahoo.com. I’m happy to
help in any way possible.

Notes:
Yarn: worsted weight in grey, white, and black
Hook size: G or similarly sized hook to make stitches tight enough that your stuffing won’t show
Gauge: not important for this project
Project size: roughly 13” long from nose to tail and 6” tall
Other Supplies: stitch marker, yarn or tapestry needle, 12 mm safety eyes and 20 mm safety
nose (optional), wire brush or pet slicker brush

Stitches used:
Magic ring - https://www.wikihow.com/Crochet-a-Magic-Ring
Ch – chain
St – stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Inv dec – invisible sc decrease - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRxkiW0ImQ
Hdc – half double crochet
Fphdc – front post half double crochet - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHlNnltueR8
Bphdc – back post half double crochet - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHlNnltueR8
Dc – double crochet
FO – finish off
Legs – make 4 in grey
R1 – 6 sc in magic ring

R2 – 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3-4 – sc in each sc around (12 stst)

R5 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around (18 sts)

R6 – sc in each sc around (18 stst)

R7 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (24 sts)

R8 – sc in each sc around, sl st in 1st sc and FO (24 stst)

Body – in grey

R1 – 6 sc in magic ring

R2 – 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around (18 sts)

R4 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (24 sts)

R5 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) around (30 sts)

R6 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) around (36 sts)

R7 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) around (42 sts)

R8 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) around (48 sts)

R9 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc) around (54 sts)

R10 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc) around (60 sts)

R11 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc) around (66 sts)

R12 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc) around (72 sts)

Align leg so that the opening faces the wrong side of your work and place hook thru any stitch
on the leg and next stitch on the body. You will attach each leg to the body by crocheting thru
both the body and leg stitches. See picture below for reference on where to place your hook.
R13 – 9 sc thru both leg and body attaching 1st leg, 8 sc thru just the body, 9 sc thru leg and
body attaching 2nd leg, 10 sc thru just the body, 9 sc thru both leg and body attaching 3 rd leg, 8
sc thru just the body, 9 sc thru leg and body attaching 4 th leg, 10 sc thru just the body (72 sts)

See pictures below of front and back of work after attaching legs.

Now we will begin crocheting around each leg and body.

R14 – 15 sc around 1st leg, 8sc in body, 15 sc around 2nd leg, 10 sc in body, 15 sc around 3rd leg,
8 sc in body, 15 sc around 4th leg, 10 sc in body. (96 sts)

R15-16 – sc each sc around (96 sts)

R17 – (inv dec, sc in next 10 sc) around (88 sts)

R18-19 – sc each sc around (88 sts)

R20 – (inv dec, sc in next 9 sc) around (80 sts)

R21-22 – sc each sc around (80 sts)

R23 – (inv dec, sc in next 8 sc) around (72 sts)

R24-25 – sc each sc around (72 sts)

R26 – (inv dec, sc in next 7 sc) around (64 sts)

R27-28 – sc each sc around (64 sts)

R29 – (inv dec, sc in next 6 sc) around (56 sts)

R30-31 – sc each sc around (56 sts)

R32 – (inv dec, sc in next 5 sc) around (48 sts)

R33 – sc each sc around (48 sts)

R34 – (inv dec, sc in next 4 sc) around (40 sts)

R35 – sc each sc around (40 sts)

Partially stuff, making sure to carefully stuff the legs.

R36 – (inv dec, sc in next 3 sc) around (32 sts)

R37 – (inv dec, sc in next 2 sc) around (24 sts)

R38 – (inv dec, sc in next 1 sc) around (16 sts)

Finish stuffing.

R39 – inv dec around (8 sts)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave tail thru each stitch in front loops only and pull tight
like a drawstring to close. Weave in end. Brush entire piece with a wire brush or pet slicker
brush.

Hands – make 2 in black

R1 - starting with long tail: ch 2 (counts as an hdc), 4 hdc in magic ring, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
Pull tail tight to close ring.
R2 – bphdc around each hdc across, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
R3 – (fphdc, [ch 4, sl st in back bumps of each ch]) in each hdc across (9 sts)
FO & work in end. Long tail will be used for sewing to the body.

Feet – make 2 in black

R1 - starting with long tail: ch 3 (counts as an dc), 4 dc in magic ring, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
Pull tail tight to close ring.
R2 – bphdc around each hdc across, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
R3 – (fphdc, [ch 4, sl st in back bumps of each ch]) in each hdc across (9 sts)
FO & work in end. Long tail will be used for sewing to the body.
Tail – in black and grey
The tail is worked by joining each row until the last row. So, you will be joining with a sl st at the
end of each round, chaining 1, and sc into that first st for each row. Pull both your joining sl st
and ch 1 tight each round. This will make it nearly invisible, especially after brushing. When
switching colors, drop the other color back behind your work and pick it back up on the next
color change.
R1 – in black: 6 sc in magic ring, sl st in 1 st sc, ch1

R2 – sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (6 sts)

R3 – 2 sc in each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R4 – sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R5-6 – in grey: sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R7-8 – in black: sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R9-10 – in grey: sc each sc around, sl st in 1 st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R11-12 – in black: sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R13-14 – in grey: sc each sc around, sl st in 1 st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R15-16 – in black: sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R17-18 – in grey: sc each sc around, sl st in 1 st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R19-20 – in black: sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

Cut black yarn and work in or leave behind work. Continue working R17-R19 in grey.

R17 – sc each sc around, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (12 sts)

R18 – sc each sc around, do not sl st to join but continue on to R19 in the round (12 sts)

R19 – sl st in next 3 sc, sc next 6 sc, sl st in next sc, leave the remaining 3 sc unworked (12 sts)

FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff and brush entire tail with wire or pet slicker brush.
Head – in white and grey
R1 – in white: ch 2, 8sc in 2nd ch from hook
Later, we will be inserting the safety nose thru the hole in the center. You can also do a magic
circle if you won’t be using a safety nose.
R2 – sc each sc around (8 sts)
R3 - (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around (12 sts)

R4 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (16 sts)

R5 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (20 sts)

R6 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (24 sts)

R7 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (28 sts)

R8 – sc each sc around (28 sts)

R9 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) x4, sc in remaining 7 sc, sl st in last sc (32 sts)

Switch color to grey for remainder of the head.

R10 – sc each sc around (32 sts)

R11 – (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (36 sts)

R12 – sc each sc around (36 sts)

R13 – (inv dec in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (32 sts)

R14 – (inv dec in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) x4, sc in remaining 8 sc (28 sts)

R15 – (inv dec in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) x4, sc in remaining 7 sc, sl st in last sc (24 sts)

FO leaving long tail for sewing.

Eye Patches – make 2 in black
R1 – ch 2, 8sc in 2nd ch from hook
Safety eyes will be inserted thru the hole in the center. You can also do a magic circle if you
won’t be using safety eyes.
R2 – sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc, ch1, turn (4 sts)
R3 – sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4 sts)
R4 – skip 1st sc, sc in each of remaining sc (3 sts)
FO leaving long tail for sewing.

Nose Patch – make 1 in grey

R1 – ch 8
R2 – sc in the back humps of each ch (8 sts)
FO leaving long tail for sewing.

Ears – make 2 in grey and white

R1 – in grey: 4 sc in magic ring, ch 1, turn (4 sts)

Pull stitches closed, but don’t join.

R2 – sc, (2 sc in next sc) x2, sc, ch 1, turn (6 sts)

R3 – sc in next 2 sc, (2 sc in next sc) x2, sc in next 2 sc, ch 1, turn

Cut grey yarn leaving long tail for sewing and switch to white.

R4 – in white: sc in next 3 sc, (3 sc in next sc) x2, sc in next 3 sc

This is the right side of the ear and will become the inside when stitched to the head.

FO and weave in all extra ends. Brush the wrong side and edge of each ear with wire or pet
slicker brush.
Assembly of Face and Body
With the flatter side of the head on the bottom, place the eye patches on the face and stitch in
place. Align the eye patches so that the skipped stitch in the last row is closer to the nose and
the last stitch in the row is closer to the body. They should line up along the jawline of the face.
I did this by inserting the safety eyes into the holes in R1 of eye patches and thru the head
between R6 & R7 without putting the backs on. Then I inserted the safety nose in the hole in R1
of the head without putting the back on. I think it makes it easier to place with the eyes and
nose. Then I removed them after stitching so I could brush the piece easier. Place and stitch on
nose patch. Refer to pictures for proper placement. Brush entire head with a wire or pet slicker
brush and reinsert safety eyes and nose with backs.
Stuff head and sew to body on one of the shorter sides. Stitch ears to top of head in a curved
shape with unbrushed side on the inside. Align tail to body with the sc from the last row on the
top and the sl sts on the bottom. Stitch hands to front legs and feet to back legs. Use your brush
to brush all the joints to blend and give the whole raccoon another quick brushing to finish.