Crochet Pattern

The pattern of the toy is suitable for any yarn type.

Himalaya Dolphin Baby/

YarnArt Dolce
(131 yds/3,5 Oz.)

Main shade consumption (pink) 2 – 2.5 skeins

Hook 3.5 mm
Height 36 cm/14.2” HDB
80301

HDB
80333

HDB
80309

HDB
80330

YA Dolce
782

HDB
80318

*in this crochet pattern I have used

a thin chenille yarn of Chinese
production and a 2.5 mm hook
*height 26 cm/10.2”
*

*Please, pay attention to the fact that every person has his/her own style and crochet
density. The size of the finished toy may vary from the size indicated in the pattern.
 3

✓ plush yarn (120 m/100 gr.) (131 yds/3,5 oz) (Himalaya Dolphin Baby,
YarnArt Dolce, etc.)
(main shade consumption 2-2.5 skeins, other shades – less than a half of a skein):
- palette for the body (page 6);
✓ cotton/semi-cotton yarn (~330 m/100 g) (361 yds./3.53 Oz.)
(YarnArt Jeans, Alize Cotton Gold, Gazzal Jeans, etc.):
- black (for pupils and nose);
- to match plush yarn shades to sew the details (optional);
✓ 3.5 mm hook;
✓ long needle for tightening (for plush yarn ~ 12 cm);
✓ nylon thread for tightening or any strong light thread;
✓ needles for sewing body parts;
✓ stitch markers;
*depending on your crocheting
✓ pins with large head;
density, thread tension, crocheting
✓ scissors;
method (tick / mixed / cross ←
✓ fiber filling;
watch the video), you should
✓ love.
correctly choose the hook size. I
crochet in a mixed way (capture
on top, then capture on bottom),
strong thread gauge/tension.
*when creating a toy using plush
yarn, I sew almost all the details with
a semi-cotton thread to match.
So, it turns out neater and stronger.
 4

*U.S. terminology

MR – magic ring;
CH – chain;
SS – slip stitch;
St(s) – stitch(es);
Rd(s) – round(s);
SC – single crochet;
HDC – half double crochet;
DC – double crochet;
INC – increase (work 2 DC in the same St);
DEC – decrease (2 SC together through the front loops);
BLO – back loops only;
FLO – front loops only;
(SC, INC)*6 (18) – repeat the combination in brackets 6 times, the
number in brackets is the total number of St in a round.
 5

In this crochet pattern we will shift the stitch marker so that my pattern coincides
with yours. Next, I explain why the beginning of the round may shift in different ways
or not shift at all.

The beginning of the round shifts to the right (for a right-handed person) as you
crochet, or doesn’t shift at all, which depends on your crocheting technique (the
method and strength of the thread tension, the position of the thread relative to the
canvas) (see photo below);

align the beginning of the Rd:

the beginning the beginning of the
of the Rd Rd shifts to the RIGHT work addiotional shifting stitches, which
DOES NOT shift we DO NOT take into account in the
total number of stitches in the Rd, and
shift the stitch marker to the LEFT
 6

First, we are going to crochet arms and tail, as they are going to be attached in
the process of crocheting. But you can always sew them to the body in specified
rounds.

*make 2 details
*stuff only the palms

Thumb:
*white yarn
*don’t stuff

1. 6 SC in MR;
2-5. 4 rounds of 6 SC;
- work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides
together with 3 SC;
- fix and cut the thread.

All other fingers (except the thumb):

thumb
*white yarn
*make 4 details
*don’t stuff

1. 6 SC in MR;
2-6. 5 rounds of 6 SC;
- fix and cut the thread in 3 details;
- when crocheting the last 4th detail, do NOT cut 4
3 2 1
the thread and begin to join all 4 fingers;
 7

7. 3 SC on the 1st finger, 3 SC on the 2nd finger, 3 SC on the 3d finger, 6 SC on

the 4th finger, 3 SC on the 3d finger, 3 SC on the 2nd finger, 3 SC on the 1st finger (24);

8-12. 5 rounds of 24 SC;

- in Rd 13 we attach the thumb;

- to make sure that the finger is exactly in its place,
fold the detail in half along all the fingers and shift
the stitch marker to the next SC from the fold line
(see page 9);
 8

13. left arm: SC, 3 SC with the thumb, 20 SC (24);

right arm: 8 SC, 3 SC with the thumb, 13 SC (24);

left arm right arm

14. (10 SC, DEC)*2 (22);

15. (9 SC, DEC)*2 (20);
16. (3 SC, DEC)*4 (16);
17. (2 SC, DEC)*4 (12);
- change thread color to ivory, fix and cut the white thread;
18. (4 SC, DEC)*2 (10);
19. (3 SC, DEC)*2 (8);
20. (2 SC, DEC)*2 (6);
- stuff only the palm so that it stays flat;
21-30. 10 rounds of 6 SC;

- (if needed) work several additional SCs so that

the 1st finger was in one line with the fold line, when
folded;
 9

- work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides

together with 3 SC;
- fasten off.

*mustard-colored yarn
*make 2 details
*DON”T stuff

0. Chain 8;
- lock (join) the chain with SS;

- work a CH, work the first Rd in a spiral along the chain:

1. 8 SC;
- next, work as usual – in a spiral;
 10

2-22. 21 rounds of 8 SC;

- fasten off, and leave a long end to sew;

- carefully sew the edges in a circle, starting from the inside, moving to the outside;

- put it on the arm and fix it with two stitches on two opposite sides of the arm so that
the seam is on the opposite side from the thumb between Rds 15 and 16 of the arm.
 11

*pink yarn
*make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 3;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 2 SC;
2-4. 3 rows of 2 SC;
5. skip a St, SC (1);
6-7. 2 rows of SC;
- work a CH, turn the detail on its side and work the SS series on the side to
the initial row;

- fasten off.
 12

*make 2 details
*stuff in process
*start with grey yarn

0. Chain 12;
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS) as in all amigurumi toys (oval-shape
detail);
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 10 SC, 5 SC into the last chain from the
hook, on the other side: 9 SC, INC (26);

2. INC, 10 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 10 SC, 2 INC (33);

3 SC in 1 St

3 SC in 1 St

3. SC, INC, 11 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 3 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 11 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (40);

4. 2 SC, INC, 12 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 5 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 12 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (47);
 13

- change thread color to red, don’t cut the grey thread and leave it on the outside
for further crocheting;
5. BLO: 47 SC (47);

DEC 3 SC in 1 St –
work 3 SC together.

6. 16 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 5 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 20 SC (43);

 14

- return to the grey thread, don’t cut the red one;

- work 47 SS in loose front loops of Rd 4;
- join the Rd with SS, fasten off, hide the thread inside the foot;

- continue crocheting the foot with a red thread;

7. 15 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 3 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 19 SC (39);

8. 14 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 18 SC (35);

9. 12 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 16 SC (31);

10. 10 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 14 SC (27);

11. 8 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 12 SC (23);

12. 6 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 10 SC (19);

13. 4 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 8 SC (15);

- stuff the foot tightly keeping the square shape on the toe;
 15

- change thread color to pink, leave the red thread on the outside for further
crocheting of the top of the boot;
14. BLO: (3 SC, DEC)*3 (12);
15. (2 SC, DEC)*3 (9);
16. 3 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC (7); Do you know you could

- stuff the ankle well, then keep stuffing the leg in the process; finish crocheting with
a neat, straight line?
17-30. 14 rounds of 7 SC;
- finish with a straight line;

The upper edge of the boot:

- return to the red thread;
- attach the thread to the loose front loop of Rd 13;
- (round numbering starts over again) work:

1. FLO: 15 SC;
2-4. 3 rounds of 15 SC;
- change thread color to white, fasten off the red thread;
5. FLO: (4 SC, INC)*3 (18);
6. (5 SC, INC)*3 (21);
7. 21 SC;
- finish with a straight line;
- bring all the thread ends through the loops from
the inside out to Rd 1 and hide them inside the leg.
 16

Front stripe on the boot:

*white yarn
*make 2 details
*leave a long thread at the beginning so that you can hide it inside the boot later

0. Chain 18;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 17 SC;
- leave a long thread so that you can hide it
inside the boot later;
- sew on with a thin cotton thread to match.
 17

*mark the points of joining on each leg between each other – from the side;

left leg right leg

*attach a white thread to the St, marked

with a marker on the right leg, and work
a chain series of 3 CH;
 18

*next, begin crocheting Rd 31 of the body (continue numbering from the leg);
*stitch marker is on the back;
*stuff in process;
*continue working from the chain along the left leg (where the stitch marker is);
place of
attachment on
the left leg

31. on the left leg: 7 SC, on the chain: 3 SC, on the right leg: 7 SC,
on the chain: 3 SC (20);

*if there is a gap between the

legs, sew it with the thread end
on the wrong side;
 19

32. (SC, INC)*10 (30);

2 SC for the tail
33. 30 SC;

- in Rd 34 we are going to attach the tail;

- for accuracy of attachment mark 2 SC (place of
attachement) in the middle on the back;
- the pattern of attachment (place of attachment)
may differ, due to the different shifting of the
beginning of the Rd (see page 9), so double-check
the area of attachment by markers;

34. 27 SC, 2 SC with the tail, SC (30);

 20

35. (8 SC, DEC)*3 (27);

36. (7 SC, DEC)*3 (24);
37. (6 SC, DEC)*3 (21);
- change thread color to red, fasten off the white thread;
38 (5 SC, DEC)*3 (18);
39. BLO: 18 SC;
40. 18 SC;
41. (5 SC, INC)*3 (21);
42. 21 SC;
43. (6 SC, INC)*3 (24);
44. 24 SC;
45. (6 SC, DEC)*3 (21);
46. (5 SC, DEC)*3 (18);
6 SC

- in Rd 47 we are going to attach the arms;

- for accuracy of attachment mark 3 SC

3 SC
3 SC

(place of attachement) at a distance of

6 SC in the front and on the back;
- the pattern of attachment (place of 6 SC

attachment) may differ, so double-check

the area of attachment by markers;
- if needed, adjust (shift) the stitch marker;

47. 4 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 6 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 2 SC (18);
 21

- change thread color to white, fasten off the red thread;

48. 18 SC;
- fasten off, but leave a loop to change thread color to pink and to continue
crocheting the head;

- let's move on to crocheting a skirt;

- go back to Rd 38 of the body;

- turn the toy upside down and attach the red thread to the loose front loop of
Rd 38 on the back and work in a spiral according to the pattern (numbering begins
with Rd 1):
 22

1. FLO: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24);

2. (3 SC, INC)*6 (30);
3. (4 SC, INC)*6 (36);
4. (5 SC, INC)*6 (42);
5. (6 SC, INC)*6 (48);
6. (7 SC, INC)*6 (54);
7. (8 SC, INC)*6 (60);
8. (9 SC, INC)*6 (66);
- change thread color to white,
fasten off the red thread;
9. (10 SC, INC)*6 (72);
10. (11 SC, INC)*6 (78);
- fasten off;
- hide all the thread ends between the loops
on the wrong side.

*when stuffing the head,

- continue crocheting the head;
pay attention to its shape
- change thread color to pink;
– it is narrower from below
than from above.
49. (SC, INC)*9 (27); (the first Rd of the head) 64. 60 SC;
50. (2 SC, INC)*9 (36); 65. (8 SC, DEC)*6 (54);
51. (5 SC, INC)*6 (42); 66. (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48);
52. (6 SC, INC)*6 (48); 67. (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42);
53-56. 4 rounds of 48 SC; 68. (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36);
57. (15 SC, INC)*3 (51); 69. (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30);
58. (16 SC, INC)*3 (54); 70. (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);
59-61. 3 rounds of 54 SC; 71. (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18);
62. (17 SC, INC)*3 (57); 72. (SC, DEC)*6 (12);
63. (18 SC, INC)*3 (60); 73. 6 DEC (6);
 23

- do NOT tighten the hole, we will need it for a

neat muzzle tightening;
- fix the thread and leave the long end for
tightening the hole.
 24

*ivory yarn

0. Chain 14;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 12 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from the hook,
on the other side: 11 SC, INC (28);

2. INC, 11 SC, 3 INC, 5 SC, 3 SC in one St, 5 SC, 2 INC (36);

3. SC, INC, 11 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, 3 SC in one St, 6 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (44);

4-5. 2 rounds of 44 SC;

- finish with a straight line;
 25

- mark the middle of the detail from above;

- fold the detail in half with the inside out;

- sew with a needle or work a seam of 3 SS in the area of the top of the detail;
 26

- turn it out on the front side.

Guideline for choosing yarn for pupils and nose:

*for a semi-cotton toy: use the same thread as for the body divided in half;

*for a toy made of thin plush /velour /chenille: use a semi-cotton thread as
YarnArt JEANS/Alize Cotton Gold (174 yds./1.76 Oz.);

*in all cases, we use the same hook as for the body (it is allowed to use a smaller
hook if there are gaps or the pupil comes out too large).
 27

*black semi-cotton yarn How do I usually tighten

*don’t stuff the hole and hide the
thread end inside.
1. 6 SC in MR;
2-3. 2 rounds of 6 SC;
- tighten the hole, leave a long end to sew;
- sew the nose on the muzzle two rows
below the seam line (see photo);

- then lift the nose up and fix it with

a stitch one row higher.
 28

Eye whites:
*white yarn
*make 2 details

0. Chain 5;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3 SC,
3 SC into the last chain from the hook,
on the other side: 2 SC, INC (10);
2. INC, 2 SC, 3 INC, 2 SC, 2 INC (16);
3. SC, INC, 2 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 2 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (22);
- finish with a straight line;

- attach eye whites front sides to each other and crochet both sides
together with 3 SS (see photos and video);

14 SC 14 SC

- fix and cut the thread

- count 14 SC from the middle of
the eye whites attachment to the
side for each eye white;
 29

- attach the pink thread to the right extreme front loop (marked) and begin to
crochet the eyelid according to the pattern:
1. FLO: 14 SC, SC in the middle between the eyes, 14 SC (29);
- fasten off;

- work two lines of 9-10 SS (chain stitch) with black semi-cotton yarn along the upper
border between pink and white yarn;
 30

Eyelashes:
*make 2 details of black semi-cotton yarn

0. Chain 5;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: SS, SC, 2 HDC (4);
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew;

- sew the eyelashes on the sides

with the wrong side up so that the
eyelashes do not bend forward.

Pupils:
*make 2 details using black semi-cotton yarn

0. Chain 6;
1. start in the 3d chain from the hook: 4 HDC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew;

- sew the pupils onto the eyes so

that they are shifted to the center
(see photo);
- embroider highlights.
 31

Inner part:
*make 2 details
*ivory yarn
*make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 2;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: INC (2);
2. INC, SC (3);
3. INC, 2 SC (4);
4. INC, 3 SC (5);
- fix the thread, leave a long end to sew (if you are going
to sew it with a plush thread).

Outer part + assembly:

*make 2 details
*pink yarn
*make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 2;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: INC (2);
2. INC, SC (3);
3. INC, 2 SC (4);
- work a CH, work the detail on the sides:
3 SC on one side, 3 SC in the top, 3 SC on the other side;

3 SC
in the top
 32

- do not cut the thread, continue the assembly

with the inner part;
- work a CH, attach the ivory inner part
of the ear to the outer part and crochet
two details together with SC on the sides;
- work 3 SC in the top;

- fix the thread, leave a long end to sew (if you are going to sew it with a plush
thread).

*pink yarn
*make 3 details
*make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 5;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 4 SC;
2. 4 SC;
3. skip a St, 3 SC (3);
4. 3 SC;
5. skip a St, 2 SC (2);
6. 2 SC;
 33

7. skip a St, SC (1);

8. SC;
- work a CH, turn the detail on its side and work the SS series on the side to the initial
row;

- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew.

*red yarn
*make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 2;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: SC;
2. INC (2);
3-4. 2 rows of 2 SC;
5. INC, SC (3);
6-13. 8 rows of 3 SC;
14. skip a St, 2 SC (2);
 34

15-16. 2 rows of 2 SC;

17. skip a St, SC (1);
18. SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew.

*pink yarn
*DON’T stuff

Front side prickle:

*make 2 details

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. 2 SC, 2 INC, 2 SC (8);
3. 3 SC, 2 INC, 3 SC (10);
4. 4 SC, 2 INC, 4 SC (12);
5. 5 SC, 2 INC, 5 SC (14);
6. 6 SC, 2 INC, 6 SC (16);
7. DEC, 5 SC, 2 INC, 5 SC, DEC (16);
8. 7 SC, 2 INC, 7 SC (18);
9. 8 SC, 2 INC, 8 SC (20);
10. 9 SC, 2 INC, 9 SC (22);
11. 10 SC, 2 INC, 10 SC (24);
12-14. 3 rounds according to the pattern: DEC, 9 SC, 2 INC, 9 SC, DEC (24);
- work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 12 SC;
- fasten off;
- hide the thread inside the detail (if you crochet with a semi-cotton yarn, then leave
a long thread for sewing).
 35

Back side prickles:

*make 2 details

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. (2 SC, INC)*2 (8);
3. (3 SC, INC)*2 (10);
4. (4 SC, INC)*2 (12);
5. (5 SC, INC)*2 (14);
6. (6 SC, INC)*2 (16);
7. (7 SC, INC)*2 (18);
8. (8 SC, INC)*2 (20);
9. (9 SC, INC)*2 (22);
10. (10 SC, INC)*2 (24);
11. (11 SC, INC)*2 (26);
12-23. 12 rounds of 26 SC;
- work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 13 SC;
- fasten off;
- hide the thread inside the detail (if you crochet with a semi-cotton yarn, then leave
a long thread for sewing).

Central upper and lower prickles:

*make 2 details

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. (SC, INC)*3 (9);
3. (2 SC, INC)*3 (12);
4. (3 SC, INC)*3 (15);
5. (4 SC, INC)*3 (18);
6. (5 SC, INC)*3 (21);
7. (6 SC, INC)*3 (24);
8. (7 SC, INC)*3 (27);
 36

9. (8 SC, INC)*3 (30);

10. (9 SC, INC)*3 (33);
11. (10 SC, INC)*3 (36);
12-19. 8 rounds of 36 SC;
- work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 18 SC;
- fasten off;
- hide the thread inside the detail (if you crochet with a semi-cotton yarn, then leave
a long thread for sewing).

Now begins the most painstaking part of the work. It is important to place all the
details correctly on the head. Fix each detail well before sewing so that it does not
shift when sewing. Check the placement of the details according to the photo and
indicated rounds in the description.

- first, place the eyes and muzzle correctly on the head (try on);
- we count from the first Rd of the head – Rd 49;
- the eyes are attached in the area of Rds 7-15 of the head (go down the Rd under
the muzzle);
Rds 7-15
 37

- the muzzle is attached in the area of Rds 1-7;

- the side edges of the muzzle are raised up;
- in the eye area, move the muzzle a row lower, forming grooves
under the eyes;
- when fitting, stuff a bit the muzzle, but DO NOT stuff the bottom part;

Rds1-7

- if needed, adjust the place of the details yourself;

 38

- remove the muzzle and sew the eyes along

the contour with a thin cotton thread to match;

- sew on the muzzle, stuffing it slightly in

the process (do not stuff the bottom part);
 39

- mark 4 points of tightening: 2 points on the sides of the muzzle at a distance of

1 SC between them;

7 SC

5 SC

- use a nylon thread or a strong cotton thread

for tightening;
- insert the needle from above and withdraw it
at the lateral extreme point;
- withdraw the needle with the thread through
the adjacent point back into the open hole;
- stretch the ends of the threads, tie them into a knot;
- perform the same steps from the opposite side;
 40

- embroider the outline of a smile with a black

thread through the open hole in the head;
- the black thread lies on the same Rd with the
tightening line, it does not go down;
- the arc is formed with the help of tightening
points that lift the smile line up;

- hide all the ends of the threads into

the open hole of the head;
- if needed, stuff additionally the top of
the head and tighten the hole, hide t
he thread inside;
 41

- place the ears on the sides of the

head in the area of Rds 17-22 of
the head;
- sew with cotton thread to match;
 42

- sew front side prickles on the sides;

- fix them with a stitch from the inside

near the muzzle so that they do not
stick out to the sides;

- sew the lower central prickle between Rds 16

and 17;
- also fix it with a stitch in the middle to the
head;
 43

- sew the back side prickles two or three rows above the central one;
- also fix them with stitches from the inside in the middle (the places are indicated
with pins in the photo);

- sew the upper central prickle and fix it

in the middle to the head;
 44

- sew the rim on the sides;

 45

- sew the bangs, folding the curls in half at the base fixing above each other.
 46

*start with mustard yarn

*stuff in process

1. 8 SC in MR; 13-26. 14 rounds of 40 SC;

2. 8 INC (16); - change thread color to grey;
3. (SC, INC)*8 (24); 27. (4 SC, INC)*8 (48);
4. (2 SC, INC)*8 (32); - change thread color to mustard;
5. (3 SC, INC)*8 (40); 28. (5 SC, INC)*8 (56);
6. (4 SC, INC)*8 (48); 29. 56 SC;
7. (5 SC, INC)*8 (56); 30. BLO: 56 SC;
8. BLO: 56 SC; 31. 56 SC;
9. 56 SC; 32. BLO: (5 SC, DEC)*8 (48);
10. BLO: 56 SC; 33. (4 SC, DEC)*8 (40);
11. (5 SC, DEC)*8 (48); 34. (3 SC, DEC)*8 (32);
- change thread color to grey; 35. (2 SC, DEC)*8 (24);
12. (4 SC, DEC)*8 (40); 36. (SC, DEC)*8 (16);
- change thread color to red; 37. 8 DEC;

- tighten the hole, fix the thread,

and hide the end inside.
 47

Handle:
*start with dark brown yarn
*stuff in process

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. (SC, INC)*3 (9);
3-9. 7 rounds of 9 SC;
- change thread color to mustard;
10-21. 12 rounds of 9 SC;
- change thread color to grey;
22. (2 SC, INC)*3 (12);
23-25. 3 rounds of 12 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew;
- sew to hummer.

*You can insert a bent and

insulated copper or steel wire into
the handle, so that it goes half
inside the hammer.

It is not recommended to use a wire

if the toy is intended for younger
children and active play. Especially,
if the hammer is made of plush yarn.
48