Ikat

Assignment-1c
 Ikat is a method for coloring fabric in patterns by resist dyeing. The
pattern is not applied to the surface of a finished fabric, nor is it woven
into the fabric structurally.
Instead, parts of the yarns for the warp and/or weft are protected with
a resist before dyeing.
The dye then colors the yarn everywhere except under the binding.
After dyeing, the bindings are removed and the pattern appears undyed
on a colored ground. When dyeing is complete, the yarn is then woven
into fabric, often in a relatively simple structure and at a density that
highlights the warp.
Ikat is usually described using terms that refer to which threads are dyed.
Warp Ikat: where only the warp threads are bound. This is the most common.
Weft Ikat: where only the weft threads are bound.
Compound Ikat: where both the warp and weft threads are bound, but their
designs are independent of each other.
Double Ikat: where both the warp and weft threads are bound, but their designs
work together to create the overall pattern. This technique is the most rare due
to how complicated and difficult it is to create.

Ikat is often only two colors, the color of the yarn and the color of the dye. However, many are made with multiple
colors, making the process that much more laborious because you need to bind and dye color 1, then color 2, then color
3. For example, in this fabric, the white is the color of the yarn. The designer would have bound the white areas first
and then dyed the warp yellow. The warp would then be stretched again and the yellow areas bound, then dyed red. The
process was repeated one more time for the darkest color.
 When the dyed warp is put on the loom, there is a shifting and relaxing of the yarns. While the undyed areas
appear in a straight line when you remove the binding. Inevitably, when the warp is put on the loom, there is a
shifting.
The edges move up and down slightly until the warp is tied on.
This feathering edge is what makes these fabrics so unmistakable and recognizable. Structurally, these fabrics are
woven to highlight the patterning. They often have a dense sett (number of warp threads per inch) and are woven in
a simple structure such as plain weave, rep weave, or satin.
Ikat fabrics are made around the world. While the basic technology of binding thread is a constant,
particular techniques vary from region to region.
How they stretch out the yarn for binding, transfer a design to the thread, and the materials they use for wrapping
vary widely. Regardless of where they are made though, they are always highly prized.
Ikat is laborious and highly skilled work. Therefore, they are considered very precious wherever they are made. In
cultures around the world, they are often used for very special occasions, such as ceremonies or religious rituals.
 “The word ‘ikat’ comes from the Malay-Indonesian word for ’tie’; it was introduced into European sources of textile
technology and history in the early twentieth century when Dutch scholars began paying attention to the rich textile
traditions of the Netherlands Indies, the present-day Indonesia.

However, it is most prevalent in Indonesia, India and Japan. In South America, Central and North America, ikat is still
common in Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Guatemala and Mexico, respectively.

In the 19th century, the Silk Road desert oases of Bukhara, Samarkand, Hotan and Kashgar (in what is now Uzbekistan and
Xinjiang in Central Asia) were famous for their fine silk Uzbek/Uyghur ikat.

India, Japan, Indonesia and many other Southeast Asian nations including Cambodia, Myanmar, Philippines and Thailand
have weaving cultures with long histories of ikat resist dyeing.

Double ikat textiles are still found in India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia ikat textiles are produced throughout the
islands from Sumatra in the west to Timor in the east and Kalimantan and Sulawesi in the north. Ikat is also found in Iran,
where the Persian name is daraee.
 PREPARATION
Several rows of yarn are stretched out through the length of a house. This length is
approximately 10 meters and will create 24 meters when woven.
DESIGN
The designer draws lines across the yarn to indicate the design. The design can be simple
geometric shapes or a more complicated design as shown in the picture
BINDING
Rubber bindings are placed on the yarn according to the markings of the designer. These
bindings will resist the dye.
DYEING
The yarn is then dyed with the initial base color. (5) The yarn is stretched out on poles
in the sun to dry. Sun is very important in this process. The bindings are removed and if
a second or third color is used in the design, then steps 1-4 will be repeated.
WEAVING
Once the yarn is completely died and dry. The yarn is placed on cones and on the loom.
It takes 32 cones of yarn to make 24 meters. There are two kinds of looms- a manual
and an electric. Manual takes 16 hours and electric about 12 hours to spin 24 meters.
The design process takes about 5 hours and the dying and drying process can take
another 1-3 days for 24 meters. Once the loom has been spun, the 24 meters of fabric
are ready!
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR IKAT FABRICS
For best results, we recommend machine washing with mild detergent in cold water and
line drying. Wash colors separately. Do not soak block printed fabrics and do not dry
them in direct sunlight.
IKAT IN CURRENT DAY IS ART FORM FOLLOWED BY THE STATES OF ODISHA , ANDHRA PRADESH, TELANGANA, GUJARAT AND IS AN INSPIRATION
TO MANY CURENT DESIGNERS AND ARE BOUGHT FOR COMPETETIVE PRICES