Fashion Design: History & Concepts
Uploaded by
ScribdTranslationsFashion Design: History & Concepts
Uploaded by
ScribdTranslationsDEVELOPMENT OF
COLLECTION
DESIGN
RICARDO DÁVILA CHERRES
WHAT IS FASHION DESIGN?
Fashion design is in charge of CLOTHING DESIGN and
accessories created within the
CULTURAL and SOCIAL influences of a specific period. It represents the
style and idea of the designer according to his PRINCIPLES OF
COMPOSITION , KNOWLEDGE and TALENT . It should not be confused
with CUTTING AND DRESSING or TAILORING , because although
fashion design is closely linked to these, it is actually a different task.
• Fashion design is not always an art, since art does not seek to obtain
money and fashion in most cases does; Fashion is recognized as a
lifestyle, since to design you have to know the client from their economic
level, tastes in food, music, where they like to go out to have fun, etc.
CLOTHING - TAILORING
WHAT ARE YOU
LOOKING FOR?
• Aesthetic purpose: it aims to create a response in whoever observes it,
with beauty being its only axis.
• Ergonomic purpose: design of a cover in perfect harmony with human
physiology, making it improve in one or more aspects.
• Purpose of personality: the coverage suggests a type of life, political,
cultural, religious or character inclinations.
• End of situation: analyzing the packaging, the individual is placed in a
specific historical and geographical context.
• Emotivist purpose: through the image that is projected, an emotional
response is induced
AESTHETI ERGONOMIC PERSONALITY
C
EMOTIVIST
PSYCHOLOGY OF THE
OUTFIT
• Taking these goals into account, you can create a cover or dress.
Depending on the quality with which they are mixed and the number of
purposes mixed, we will obtain better or worse results.
• The psychology of fashion influences many aspects within the human
being, for example: the fact of how the color of a garment can change
your mood, or how it takes away or gives you confidence to join a social
group. .
• When the psychology of the individual swings between what is
established as normal, an analysis can be made through the clothing of
his personality, cultural level, ambitions, hobbies, place of origin, musical
tastes, physical conditions, complexes...
• In the event that there are peaks of some kind in the function of
what is established as psychological normality, the image could
be unfaithful to the reality of the individual, thus demonstrating an
adaptive deficiency, dependency, introspection, image
intelligence, low self-esteem, vanity... That is, the more distance
there is between the projected image and reality, the higher the
positive or negative value of the function of normal psychology.
• The covering can be a true reflection of the soul or completely the
opposite depending on the mental health of the individual, so
clothing should be considered as an analytical tool in psychology.
REFERRER
• Fashion design differs from costume design because its main product
tends to become obsolete after one or two seasons, usually. A season is
defined as autumn-winter or spring-summer. It is generally considered
that fashion design was born in the 19th century with Charles Frederick
Worth , who was the first to sew a label with his name on garments.
While all items of clothing from any period in history are studied by
scholars as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 can be
considered fashion design.
EXAMPLES
• Fashion designers create clothing and accessories. Some haute couture
designers are professionally independent and design for individual
clients. Others meet the needs of specialty stores or haute couture
department stores . These designers create original garments, as well as
those who follow established fashion trends. However, most fashion
designers work for clothing manufacturers, creating designs for men,
women and children in the mass market. Designer brands that have a
"name," such as Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren , are generally created by
a team of individual designers under the supervision of a design director.
HISTORY: THE BEGINNING OF
HAUTE COUTURE
The first fashion designer, who was not simply a couturier, was CHARLES
FREDERICK WORTH (1826-1895). Before she established her maison
couture (fashion house) in PARIS , the design and creation of clothing
was handled by a large number of anonymous couturiers, and high
fashion was based on the STYLES worn in royal courts. Worth's success
was such that he was able to order his customers what they should wear,
instead of following their direction as couturiers used to do. The term
couturier (seamstress) was, in fact, coined to refer to him. It was during
this period that many fashion houses began hiring artists to SKETCH or
paint garment designs. The images themselves could be presented to
customers much more economically than producing a sample garment in
the shop. If the customer liked the garment, it was ordered and paid for.
Therefore, the tradition of garment sketches began as a method for
fashion houses to economize.
BEGINNING OF THE 20TH
CENTURY
During the early years of the 20th century, virtually all high fashion
originated in PARIS and to a lesser extent in LONDON . Fashion
magazines from other countries sent editors to Paris fashion shows.
Department stores sent buyers to the SHOWS in Paris, where they
bought clothes to copy (and openly stole the style lines and cuts of
others). Both in the workshops that manufactured tailored suits and the
ready-to-wear clothing stores ( prêt à porter ), the latest Paris fashions
appeared, adapted to the economic and daily characteristics of the
stores' customers.
At this time the division between haute couture and ready-to-wear was
not yet clearly defined. The two independent modes of production were
not yet competitors, and, in fact, they coexisted in houses where
seamstresses made garments in both ways.
• In the early years of the century, magazines began to also include
photographs of the outfits and became even more influential than in the
past. In cities around the world these magazines had a great effect on
public taste and were much sought after.Talented ILLUSTRATORS such
as PAUL IRIBE , GEORGES LEPAPE , ERTÉ and GEORGE BARBIER
drew exquisite fashion paintings for these publications, which covered the
latest developments in fashion and BEAUTY . Perhaps the most famous
fashion magazine of the time was LA GAZETTE DU BON TON , which
had been founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until
1925, with the exception of the years of the First World War.
GUYS
OF
SEWING
HIGH COUTURE
• The type of fashion that predominated until the 1950s was "tailor-
made" fashion or HAUTE COUTURE ( FRENCH , for "high
fashion"). The term "made to measure" can be used for any
garment that is created for a particular customer. Haute couture,
however, is a protected term that can only be used by companies
that meet certain standards well defined by the Chambre
Syndicale de la Couture. However, many ready-to-wear and even
mass-market clothing brands claim to create haute couture,
which by any standards is false. A couture garment is made to
order for an individual customer, and is usually made of
expensive high-quality textiles,
made with extreme attention to detail and finish, usually using
time-consuming hand techniques.
READY TO WEAR FASHION
• "Ready-to-wear" fashion (or Prêt-à-porter ) is a midpoint between haute
couture and mass market. It is not made for individual customers, but
great care is taken in the choice and cutting of the fabric. The clothes are
made in small quantities to ensure exclusivity, which is why they are
rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by
fashion houses each season during a period known as " fashion week "
that takes place twice a year.
MASS PRODUCTION
• Currently the fashion industry relies primarily on mass market sales. The
mass market meets the needs of a wide range of customers, producing
ready-to-wear clothing in
large quantities and standard sizes. Cheap materials used
They creatively produce accessible fashion. Mass market designers
generally adapt fashions established by famous names in the fashion
area. They generally wait a season to make sure a certain style will be
successful before producing their own versions of it. To save time and
money, they use cheaper textiles and simpler production techniques that
can be easily executed by a machine. The final product can be sold at a
much lower price than a product from either of the other two production
methods.