FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
Weaving and knitting are the two main ways in which yarns are made into fabric. Other methods include
crotcheting, macramé’/knotting, netting, braiding, laminating and lace making.
However, non-woven fabrics are produced from other methods like bonding and felting.
Weaving
Weaving is the interlacing of weft (filling) and warp threads at right angles or the passing of weft threads
alternately over and under warp threads at right angles.
Weaving is done on a loom. The warp threads are stretched tightly on looms and will not stretch further
after the fabric is woven. The weft threads are not stretched during weaving and will therefore ‘give’
lightly when the fabric is pulled.
Basic weaves
Plain weave
This is the most common weave and the simplest to construct
Method of constructing the plain weave
One filling/ weft yarn passes over and under one warp thread alternately.
The same warp thread is picked in every alternate row.
Properties of plain woven fabrics
Closely woven fabrics are strong and firm.
Loosely woven fabric results in a weak fabric which pulls out of shape easily.
They have a smooth feel.
Examples of plain woven fabrics.
Gingham, muslin, batiste, organdie, cheese cloth, broad cloth, chiffon, cambric, poplin, chambray,
shantung, percale, lawn, calico, voile, winceyette, flannel, lining,
Twill weave
It is characterised by a diagonal line on the right side.
Method of construction
The weft thread passes over and under two warp threads alternately. In each row the weft thread is
moved one warp thread forward to give a diagonal rib effect.
Properties of twill woven fabrics.
They are strong since yarns are usually tightly twisted.
They are attractive
They do not get as easily soiled as plain woven fabrics.
They have a rough feel.
Examples of twill woven fabrics
Denim, tweeds, flannel, Hartelle, drill, gabardine, hound’s-tooth check.
Satin weave.
Satin fabrics are characterised by long floats on the face of the fabric. The warp threads float on the
surface in satin fabrics and the filling floats over the surface in sateen weave.
Filaments yarns are commonly used for satins while staple yarns are used for sateen weaves.
Method of constructing satin weave.
The weft thread goes over four and under one warp thread.
The thread moves along two warps in the next row but still goes over four and under one.
Properties of satin weave
Fabric is lustrous and glossy on the right side.
The shiny surface tends to reflect light easily therefore fabrics can be used for evening wear.
Fabrics are smooth and can be used for lining as they make it easy to slip item on and off over
other fabrics.
Fabrics are weak
Fabrics have a duller appearance on the wrong side
Fabrics are soft.
Examples of fabrics with satin weave
Acetate satin, bridal satin, slipper satin, moleskin, faille satin,
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