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Carburetor KTM LC4 Document 26 pages

Ohlins FG9030-9050-9100-9120 Workshop Manual

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The document provides instructions for removing and disassembling a carburetor. It describes draining the float bowl, removing hoses, cables, and clamps to detach the
carburetor from the eng… Full description

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Removal of the Carburetor
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1. Drain float bowl on carburetor using Phillips screwdriver. Be careful, it can strip out! Place your
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fuel can under the drain hose.
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6. Remove lower throttle cable from carburetor. There are two places your need to loosen. The front
You're
you access from the bottom and remove fromReading a is
spacer. It Preview
not necessary to remove the bolts all the
way from the throttle cable. The rear on the other hand has to have the bottom nut spun the entire
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way off of the cable to remove. Once the two are disconnected, remove throttle cable from the bike. Hyosung SF50
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Disassembling top of the Carburetor

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1. Remove the top cover of the carburetor. Don't lose the spring! Hyosung SD50
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2. Remove the cap and spring from the carburetor. Pull up on the diaphragm to remove the slide No ratings yet
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Disassembling bottom of the Carburetor Document 34 pages

You're Reading a Preview Bosch 5.2.1 Engine Management System
1. Remove the bottom cover of the carburetor. olyga mgol
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2. To remove the floats, pinch with your fingers and pull up. Be extremely careful not to loose the
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float needle!

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Once removed, inspect that o-ring to make sure it seals well enough, isn’t flattened, or showing
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7. With the main jet removed you can remove the slide support and the needle jet. To remove, press ECM PINOUT Chevrolet Sail PDF
downward on the place the main jetYou're Reading
just came off of. a Preview Rodrigo Salas
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This will push the slide support out the other side (top) of the carburetor.

Check if there is an O-ring seated at the topside of slide support. If not it, is still in the carburetor
and needs to be pulled out.

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8. Remove the idle jet. Be careful and do not force anything.

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10. Note the fuel screw position by turning the screw to the right. Count the 1/4 turns in (right). You
will probably get 2-1/4 to 2-3/4. Write it down.

Date: Fuel screw position:

…..................... ….....................
…..................... ….....................
…..................... ….....................
…..................... ….....................
…..................... ….....................
…..................... ….....................

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Remove the fuel screw. Be careful not to loose the spring, washer, or O-ring from the screw.
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If you have extended fuel screw, it has to come out before you are able to remove the float bowl.

11. Remove float bowl gasket. Be careful not to damage it.

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Carburetor modifications
You're Reading a Preview
0 - 1/8 air screw
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1/8 - 1/4 pilot jet
1/8 - 1/2 slide valve
OR
1/4 - 3/4 needle
3/4 main jet
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1. DRILLING THE SLIDE

To reduce the amount of time for the atmospheric pressure to equalize, increase the size of the holes
through which it passes.

Carefully drill these two 3 mm holes from the top.

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2. MAIN JET
You're
Stock is 152.5. From there they increase byReading
2.5. If youaare
Preview
at 1000 m elevation or less, a 160.0 main
jet is a good choice to start. Above that elevation, drop down a size for every 300 m.
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3. IDLE JET
OR
Stock idle jet is 45 and should be OK. If you have the airbox mod, the slide mod and have an
aftermarket exhaust, chances are you should be running the larger jet.
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4. NEEDLE
Stock setting is in the 3rd position. To richenContinue for Free
the flow, lower the clip. To lean the needle, raise the
clip. It is recommended to move clip to 4th position.

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Assembling of the Carburetor

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1. Assemble the carburetor in reverse order.
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2. Be careful when reinstalling the cap that you do not pinch or distort the vacuum diaphragm. Don't
OR
over-tighten the cap screws.

3. When you reinstall theBecome a Scribd member for full access. Your first 30 days are free.
slide support and needle jet (with o-ring) you have to line up the needle jet
with the pin on the carburetor body.
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4. Set the float height. To set the float height you need to hold the carburetor inverted with the float
and float needle installed.

These two edges have to be parallel.

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Measure float height with the following procedure.

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If edges are not parallel, adjust the adjustment tab and measure again.

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5. Be careful when installing plastic nut on choke. Do not strip it. Make sure it seals correctly and
fully when reinstalled. You're Reading a Preview
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Adjust choke cable. The choke lever must always have a play of approx. 4 mm.

Push the choke lever all the way to the front and slide the protecting cap (#1) from the adjusting
part (#2). Loosen the lock nut (#3) and correct the play by turning the adjusting part. Tighten lock
nut and slide protecting cap back on.

6. Adjust throttle cable. When turning the throttle grip, you should feel backlash of 3-5 mm.

Slide back the pro-tection cover (#5). Loosen the counter nut (#6) and turn the adjusting screw (#7)
accordingly. Then, fasten the counter nut and slide the protection cover back on.

Make sure that the throttle grip will return to the idle position automatically once you let go of it.

After adjusting the throttle cables turn the handlebar all the way to the left and to the right while the
engine is still running. The idle speed should not change.

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Airbox modification
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Now that you have increase the ability of your carburetor to get fuel into the system more rapidly,
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you need to make sure your getting enough air as well.
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1. Remove the left side panel from the bike and remove the plastic cover (#7) and (#8).

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2. Use cover (#7) as pattern and cut inox plate to match cover's shape.

3. Drill six 25 mm holes to inox plate as high up as possible.

4. Press in air box vents into holes. You can apply some silicone sealant for better sealing.

5. Install new gasket (#8).

6. Replace plastic cover (#7) and (#8) with the new inox cover.

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Adjustment of the Carburetor

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1. Go for 10-15 minute ride to worm up the engine. Do not turn off the engine.
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2. Put the motorcycle on center stand to level it.

OR

3. Adjust idle screw and temporarily set the hot engine idle to about 1800-1900 RPM. Write exact
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RPM down.

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4. Turn off the engine.

5. Close fuel screw and count the 1/4 turns in (right). You will probably end up with something in
the 2-1/4 to 2-3/4. Write it down.

6. Open fuel screw out to 1-3/4 turns (left).

7. Go for 10-15 minute ride to worm up the engine. Do not turn off the engine.

8. Put the motorcycle on center stand to level it.

9. Write exact RPM down. Value should rise slightly. If RPM does not rise, smaller main jet is
needed.

10. Open fuel screw out 1/4 turn (left).

11. Write exact RPM down. If value rises slightly, repeat step 10.

12. When RPM starts to decrease, set fuel screw back to the highest value of RPM. If RPM does not
start to decrease in 3 1/2 turns, larger main jet is needed.

13. Open fuel screw out 1/8 turn (left).

14. Adjust idle screw and set idle to 1600 RPM.

15. After a while check spark plug porcelin for the color and condition of it.

A white colored plug is caused by engine overheating and carburetor air/fuel mixture is too lean. A
tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. A black
dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is running too rich (too much
gas), or excessive idling.

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