When a hiker begins cursing himself on a trek, he has accomplished his goal.

Hamdan, who
had been hatching in search of Kusuro Lake, became impatient and informed Zeeshan that
he was unable to move any further. When I looked back, there was no one in sight, but there
was a sight that urged me to climb back towards the lake.

What was that sight exactly? This was Concordia's must-see attraction, for which trekkers
paid thousands of rupees to reach amid the foothills of massive mountains like K-2,
Broadpeak, G-1, G-2, and Chogolisa. The summiting of these mountains is every
mountaineer's ambition, but mine was fulfilled. It was possibly the first lake where I could see
so many peaks at once. The lake's length is 1200 metres and its breadth is 700 metres.

To begin, travel to Skardu, Baltistan's tourism city, from where a road runs to Tolti, about 80
kilometres away from the Kargil road. Tolti is a small settlement on the banks of the Indus
River. Along Kusuro Nullah, a route connects this community of only 150 dwellings to Kusuro
village.

Tolti and Kusuro village are around 14 km apart. The majority of locals go by motorbike,
while jeeps are also available. The route is somewhat difficult. This is, without a doubt, the
most difficult route in the ravines, passing through the Kharmang. My friend Nazar was
already informing Raja Jalal of my arrival, so I had nothing to worry about. We arrived in
Kusuro village during Asr and chose to spend the night with our guide Muhammad Abbas.

Kusuro is a small town of farmers and day wagers. The area lacks basic necessities such as
medical, educational, and communication services. We were the first non-locals to arrive in
search of Lake Kusuro, so they greeted us with open arms.

Abbas wondered as to how we heard about the lake. Zeeshan told him that Nasr Bhatti
arrived in Baltistan last year for the same purpose, but after being affected by Corona, he
called off the mission and only trekked to Ghorashi Jhu of Ghandus. Lady Luck shines at us
once more with another opportunity. This year, we expect to make a successful return.
According to Abbas, the route to the lake is lengthier, and non-locals are still concerned
about approaching the lake. They bring a tent for an overnight stay if they come to visit.

Following a brief discussion, we agreed to begin our journey around 4:30 AM, after offering
the Fajr prayers. After a delicious dinner of local vegetables, desi ghee, and lassi, we went to
bed early. We left the village early in the morning after having breakfast. The chilly wind,
rumbling ravine, and rising sun behind the peaks all indicated it would be an ideal day for
mountaineering.

The ascent began with an optimistic gesture, and soon we can see the village land beneath
our feet. The view from there was spectacular. The valley appeared narrower, and the
mountains looked to be getting closer together. Abbas assumed a vertical ascent would be
difficult to complete and ordered us to get to the top as soon as possible.

He gave us an ultimatum to cross the next Duk (another steep and vertical climb) after we
successfully climbed a Duk after 3 hours of trekking. A similar joke was repeated around 8-9
times.
We had grown accustomed to this joke over time. Not only did we reach an elevation of 11 to
13 thousand feet, but we also travelled approximately 8 kilometres. We felt tired and
requested Abbas for a break.

After a short break, we continued our hike. Our excursion began among lush herbs like
shabdhan, tambarak, and fluttering flowers. Both herbs are used in green tea by the locals.
While climbing, Abbas was plucking herbs. Zeeshan and I led him carefully towards the grey
mountains with white veins. Our advisor informed us that the lake was in the foothills of
these mountains.

The plains gave way to craggy mountains as we travelled. The falling water was noticeable
behind the stones, but obtaining it was practically impossible. The existence of these rocks
indicates the presence of a lake. However, the lake remained still difficult to access.
The fatigue was exacerbated by the 14,500-foot height and the glacier breeze with the dry
throat. It was the first time we ran out of energy, and the sight of the lake was still far away. I
had a minor fever as a result of the chilly weather. We had climbed almost 15,000 feet and
covered 14 kilometres, which is considered an extensive distance for trekking.

I turned to tell Zeeshan that I was exhausted, but the sight of the Mashabrum and K-2
energised me again. Zeeshan came to a halt behind us as he tried to identify these peaks.
Mount Durtagma was on our left, the last duk of the lake was on our right, and seven
stunning peaks stood in front of us. We were privileged to witness this sight, which we
cannot adequately explain in words. According to residents of Kusuro village, a part of
Ladakh, K-2, Broad Peak, and several other peaks can be seen from Durtagma (19
thousand feet). Our determination had already reached such heights as these mountains.

Patience is acknowledged, as the lake becomes visible. After crossing a tiny glacier, we
arrived at the lake. As soon as we saw the lake, we said Subhan Allah. God's glory echoed
in this faraway lake, forcing us to appreciate nature's artistic expression. Water had a faint
blue tone that could be noticed from a distance. The reflection of the mountains on the lake
creates a captivating effect. Nature appears to have purposely linked the little K-2 to the
lake. After a duk on the left side of the Kusuro lake, there are two more small lakes.
However, in comparison to the magnificence of the Kusuro lake, these lakes are unable to
enchant.

It is worthy of mention that with a height of 15,500 feet above sea level, this is the second
largest lake in the Kharmang district. Abbas and some other Tolti youths hailed my courage.
They told me that we were the first non-locals to arrive at the lake. Even the people of
Kharmang are concerned about going there.
The sun and the waves on the water's surface greeted us. A new lake had been discovered
and was now part of the trekking circuit. We returned to Kusuro village with the goal of
introducing Kusuro Lake.

Translated by Fehmeeda Farid Khan