«CHRISTMAS fairy»

crochet doll pattern

AUTHOR JULIA MYAZINA

THIS PATTERN IS NOT FOR FREE SO IT CAN’T BE SPREAD WITH THIRD PARTIES
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic/amigurumi ring;
CH – chain;
SC - single crochet;
DC - double crochet;
HDC - half double crochet;
INC - increase;
DEC – decrease (I use invisible decreases);
TDEC - treble decrease;
SLST – slip stitch, connecting column;
FLO - front half loop (half loop closest to you);
BLO - back half loop (half loop farthest from you)

materials:
“PEHORKA Openwork” yarn color 194 (50gm / 280m) or similar;
aluminum wire size 1,5 mm - 12 cm (4,7'’);
scissors;
hook 0,6 мм;
fabric tape;
stuffing;
pliers;
Neodymium magnet size 8 mm - 1 pc;
wooden stick (for stuffing).

2
 attention!!!
All crochet takes place on the wrong side, so the doll will come out
neater, especially face (if you do not know how to crochet on the
wrong side, When crocheting with the listed materials, you will get the
doll about 17 cm high.
Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the
doll.

In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the
paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or
thicknesses. This is due to the fact, that on different days or even
within the same day, the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I
advise you to crochet two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e.
crochet several rows of one leg, then set it aside and crochet several
rows of the other leg).

In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This

crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting
with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be
very difficult to embroider a face.

If during crocheting your doll knees (or nose for example) will be
in the wrong place, that means you should work a few offset stitches
to place the knees in the right position. After that you just finish
the row following the pattern, place the marker in the new position
and continue to crochet “as nothing happen”. That is fine, because
we all crochet differently.

I also want to warn you, that for some artists while crocheting, the
marker thread goes straight up and for others it goes to the left
slightly and thas is ok. This is affected by the way the thread is
picked up with hook, the density of stitches, stuffing, etc. Therefore,
in some key places in this pattern, I have placed the notes, which will
help to track the shifts. In such cases, you just make the required
number of offset sts, place dec / inc of this row to the right position,
crochet the row till the end, as it is written in the pattern, place the
marker and continue to crochet according to the
pattern, as if there were no extra sts.

3
 arms
right arm:
PINKY: 3 CH, 2 slst in the chain. (2)

RING FINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

MIDDLE FINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

FOREFINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

1) 3 sc on one side of the chain, on the other side of the chain: 4 sc. (7)
- you can watch how to work the first row in the video of another doll ,
but with a similar hand -->
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNWCovtNVD5AV06a-fBIbefkaJ1F47ic/view?usp=sharing

4
2) 7 sc. (7)

3) (4 CH, 3 slst in the chain), 7 sc. (7) - place the thread marker

4) sc in the thumb, 7 sc. (8)

5) (dec, 2 sc)*2. (6)

6) - 9) 6 sc. (6)

10) 3 sc, inc, 2 sc. (7) - inc should be in the back (over the pinky)

11) - 12) 7 sc. (7)

13) 4 sc, inc, 2 sc. (8)

14) - 16) 8 sc. - this row should end up over the thumb, other way
work a few offset stitches

Stuff the forearm. Then fold the last row in half and work 4 sc over
the arm (by picking up the stitches of both sides at once). Those 4 sts
should be parallel to doll hand. You can watch, how to work this row in
this video --> https://disk.yandex.ru/i/m3fDtANXn1jJzQ

5
 4 SC

Then continue to work in spital starting from this point (row 17 is

shown in the same video above).
17) 4 sc in BLO, 4 sc in the rest of the half stitches. (8) - place the
thread marker (it should be over the pinky)

6
18) - 28) 8 sc. (8) - the last row should end up in the middle of the
future armpit, other way work a few offset sts

Next, you stuff the shoulder. Then fold in half the last row and work 4
sc over it (like you did for the elbow joint). Those 4 sts should be
perpendecular to the elbow joint (as you can see in the photo below).
Cut off the thread (leave a tip for about 20 cm long).

4 SC

7
LEFT ARM:
FOREFINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

MIDDLE FINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

RING FINGER: 4 CH, 3 slst in the chain. (3)

PINKY: 3 CH, 2 slst in the chain. (2)

1) 3 sc on one side of the chain, on the other side of the chain: 4 sc. (7)

2) 7 sc. (7)

3) 3 sc, (4 CH, 3 slst in the chain), 4 sc. (7) - place the marker

4) 3 sc, sc in the thumb, 4 sc. (8)

5) (2 sc, dec)*2. (6)

6) - 9) 6 sc. (6)

10) inc, 5 sc. (7)-inc should be in the back of the arm (over the pinky)

11) - 12) 7 sc. (7)

13) sc, inc, 5 sc. (8)

14)-16) 8 sc. (8) - the last row should end up over the pinky, other way
work a few offset sts

Stuff the forearm. Then fold the last row in half and work 4 sc over it
(as you did for the right arm). And remember, that those 4 sts should
be parallel to the hand. If you made it right, then it should look like the
arm in the photo on the next page.

8
 4 SC

Then you begin to work in spiral.

17) 4 sc in BLO, 4 sc in the rest of the half sts . (8) - place the marker (it
should be over the thumb)

18) - 28) 8 sc. (8) - the last row should end up in the middle of the
outer side of the shoulder, other way work a few offset sts

Stuff the shoulder. Then fold the last row in half and work 4 sc over
it. Remember, that those 4 sts should be perpendicular to the elbow
joint. Cut off the thread. Leave a tip about 20 cm long.

9
 4 SC

LEGS
left leg:
Work CH 4, then in the 2nd st from the hook:

1) 2 sc, 3 sc in the last st of the chain, 2 sc on the other side. (7) -

place the marker

2) 3 sc, inc, 3 sc. (8)

3) - 5) 8 sc. (8)

10
6) 6 sc, 4 sc in one st, sc. (11)

7) 7 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc. (13)

8) 7 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. (11)

9) 7 sc, dec, 2 sc. (10)

10) 7 sc, dec, sc. (9)

11) 6 sc, dec, sc. (8)

12) 6 sc, dec. (7)

Stuff the foot by holding it for the tip (toes). The stuffing shouldn’t
get inside the toes.

11
13) - 18) 7 sc. (7)

19) 6 sc, inc. (8) - inc in the back of the leg

20) 8 sc. (8)

21) 7 sc, inc. (9)

22) 9 sc. (9)

23) 7 sc, inc, sc. (10)

24) 8 sc, inc, sc. (11)

25) - 27) 11 sc. (11)

28) 9 sc, dec. (10) - dec in the back of the leg

29) 10 sc. (10)

30) 8 sc, dec. (9)

31) 9 sc. (9)

32)7 sc, dec. (8) - the row should end up in the middle of the inner side
of the shin, other way work a few offset sts

Stuff the shin. Fold the last row in half and work 4 sc over it (as you
did for the arms). If you made it right, then it should look like the leg in
the photo on the next page.

12
 4 SC

Then you need to begin to work in spiral again.

33) 4 sc in BLO, 4 sc in the rest of the half stitches. (8)

34) 8 sc. (8)

35) sc, inc, 6 sc. (9) - inc in the back of the thigh

36) - 37) 9 sc. (9)

38) 2 sc, inc, 6 sc. (10)

39) - 40) 10 sc. (10)

41) 2 sc, inc, 7 sc. (11)

13
42)- 44) 11 sc. (11)

45) 3 sc, inc, 7 sc. (12)

46) - 48) 12 sc. (12)

49) 4 sc, inc, 7 sc. (13)

50) - 54) 13 sc. (13) - the last row should end up in the middle of the
outer side of the hip, other way work a few offset sts

Stuff the thigh. Fold in half the last row and work 6 sc over it. Cut off
the thread, leave the tip about 20 cm long.

6 SC

14
right leg:
Work CH 4, then in the 2nd st from the hook:

1) 2 sc, 3 sc in the last st of the chain, 2 sc on the other side. (7) - place
the marker

2) 3 sc, inc, 3 sc. (8)

3) - 5) 8 sc. (8)

6) 2 sc, 4 sc in one st, 5 sc. (11)

7) 3 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc. (13)

8) 3 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc. (11)

9) 3 sc, dec, 6 sc. (10)

10) 3 sc, dec, 5 sc. (9)

11) 3 sc, dec, 4 sc. (8)

12) 2 sc, dec, 4 sc. (7)

Stuff the foot.

13) - 18) 7 sc. (7)

19) 3 sc, inc, 3 sc. (8) - inc should be in the back of the leg

20) 8 sc. (8)

21) 4 sc, inc, 3 sc. (9)

22) 9 sc. (9)

23) 4 sc, inc, 4 sc. (10)

24) 5 sc, inc, 4 sc. (11)

15
28) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc. (10) - dec should be in the back of the leg
29) 10 sc. (10)
30) 5 sc, dec, 3 sc. (9)
31) 9 sc. (9)
32) 4 sc, dec, 3 sc. (8) - the row should end up in the middle of the
outer side of the leg, other way work a few offset sts
Stuff the shin. fold the last row in half and work 4 sc over it.

4 SC

Then begin to work in spiral.

33) 4 sc in BLO, 4 sc in the rest of the half sts. (8)

16
34) 8 sc. (8)
35) sc, inc, 6 sc. (9) - inc in the back of the leg
36) - 37) 9 sc. (9)
38) 2 sc, inc, 6 sc. (10)
39) - 40) 10 sc. (10)
41) 2 sc, inc, 7 sc. (11)
42) - 44) 11 sc. (11)
45) 3 sc, inc, 7 sc. (12)
46) - 48) 12 sc. (12)
49) 4 sc, inc, 7 sc. (13)
50) - 54) 13 sc. (13) - the last row
should end up in the middle of the
inner thigh, other way work a few
offset sts
Stuff the thigh. Fold in half and
work 6 sc over it. Cut off the thread.
Leave the tip about 20 cm long.

17
 torso
Work CH 17, then in the 2nd st from the hook:

1) 16 sc, then on the other side of the chain: 3 sc, (inc, sc)*2, 2 sc,
(sc, inc)*2, 3 sc. (36) - place the marker

2) 20 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, (2 sc, inc)*2, 4 sc. (40)

3) 21 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc. (44)

4) - 8) 44 sc. (44)

9) 28 sc, skip 7 sts, 9 sc. (37) - you can sew up the hole or not (at your
will)

10) 23 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc. (35) - decreases should be on the doll
butt

11) 21 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. (31)

12) 21 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc. (29)

13) 20 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc. (27)

14) 19 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (25)

18
15) 19 sc, dec, 4 sc. (24)

16) dec, 16 sc, dec, 4 sc. (22)

17) dec, 20 sc. (21)

18) - 19) 21 sc. (21)

20) 15 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc. (23) - increases should be in the back

21) - 22) 23 sc. (23)

23) 16 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc. (25)

24) (4 sc, dec)*2, 13 sc. (23)

25) 9 CH, 14 sc, 9 CH, 9 sc. (23)

Cut about 12 cm (4,7'’) of the wire. Bend it at one end for 1 cm. Wrap
it with fabric tape about halfway.
Then put the wire inside the doll torso. Stuff it tight. After that glue the
magnet from the inside of the doll’s back.

the magnet
must be
glued here

19
26) 9 sc in the chain, 14 sc, 9 sc in the chain, 9 sc. (41)

27) 41 sc. (41)

28) 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 13 sc. (37)

29) 2 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc, 3 dec, 11 sc. (31)

30) 3 dec, 10 sc, 3 dec, 9 sc. (25)

31) 3 dec, 5 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. (19)

32) 3 dec, sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. (13)

33) 9 sc, dec, 2 sc. (12)

34) dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc. (10)

35) - 38) 10 sc. (10) - stuff it

39) 5 dec. (5)

40) - 49) 5 sc. (5)

Cut off the thread and the

excess of the wire (if you
have it). Close the hole over
the wire.

don’t sew up
those holes
for now

20
BREAST:
1) 5 sc in MR. (5)
2) sc, 3 inc, sc. (8)
3) 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc. (11)
4) 2 sc, slst. - cut off the thread, leave the tip 30 cm long

Sew the legs to the torso. Then add more stuffing to the shoulders
and sew the arms. After that you can sew the breast. But don’t forget
to put a little bit of stuffing inside the breast.

21
 You can work the second seam around the breast to make it look
more natural. Make a nipples using the same thread.

1 2

Roll the thread twice around the needle (1). Then pull the thread a
bit and out put the needle through the MR to the neck or butt (2). And
cut off the excess thread.

You can also sculpt the bellybutton.

22
23
 head
Work CH 10, close the chain into a ring with a slst. Then work:

1) - 3) 10 sc. (10)

4) in FLO all this row: 2 sc, 2 inc, (in one st: sc, hdc), (in one st: hdc, sc),
2 inc, 2 sc. (16)

5) 2 sc, 3 sc in one st, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in one st, 2 sc. (22)

6) 2 inc, sc, 3 sc in one st, 14 sc, 3 sc in one st, sc, 2 inc. (30)

7) 30 sc. (30)

8) 14 sc, dec, 14 sc. (29)

9) (sc, inc)*2, 21 sc, (inc, sc)*2. (33)

24
10) 16 sc, inc, 16 sc. (34)

11) (inc, sc)*3, 11 sc, (in one st in BLO: slst, 2 sc, slst), 11 sc, (sc,
inc)*2, sc. (40) - pay attention to the nose position, it should be
centered in the face

12) 20 sc, dec, 18 sc. (39)

13) 15 sc, dec, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc, dec, 13 sc. (36)

14) - 15) 36 sc. (36)

16) 19 sc, inc, 16 sc. (37)

17) - 21) 37 sc. (37)

22) (dec, 4 sc)*5, dec, 5 sc. (31)

23) (dec, 3 sc)*5, dec, 4 sc. (25)

24) (dec, 2 sc)*5, dec, 3 sc. (19)

25
 Push inside the head the first 3 rows. Then put the head on the
doll’s neck and stuff it.

25) (dec, sc)*5, dec, 2 sc. (13)

26) 7 dec. - stuff it

Cut off the thread. Close the remaining hole. Put more stuffing
inside the head through the neck hole, its needed. You can put more
stuffing to the cheeks and chin. Then pick up the nose with a needle
and pull it, the nose going to look much prettier after that.

EARS:

11 CH, then in the 3rd st from the hook: 2 dc in one st, dc, 3 hdc, 4 sc,
CH, on the other side of the chain: 4 sc, 3 hdc, 2 dc, slst. - left ear

11 CH, then in the 3rd st from the hook: 2 dc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, CH, on the
other side of the chain: 4 sc, 3 hdc, dc, 2 dc in one st, slst. - right ear

It is better to sew on the ears to the head after you make the face.

26
 face embroidery
materials:
embroidery threads: black, white, brown.
scissors;
marker for fabric;
B-7000 adhesive or similar;
needles.

First of all you need to draw the eyes with a marker. The distance
between the eyes is 4 sts. The eyes them self are 2 sts wide and 2 sts
high.

27
 You begin with pupils first. Thread the needle with one black thread,
fold it in half and tie the knot at the end. Input the needle through the
back of the head to the center of pupil. Stick the needle in the center,
glue the area around it with B-7000. Start to glue the thread around
the needle in spiral, till you fill the whole pupil.

When you finish the first pupil, output the needle to the back of the
head and cut off the thread. Repeat for the second pupil.

28
 Next, change the thread color to white. Work a couple of stitches at
the side of the pupils. Make a “glare” on the pupils also.

After that change the thread color to black again. Embroider the
“eyelashes” in one thread.

1 2

Work the first dashed seam along the contour of the eyelashes (1).
then work the second seam on the top of the first one, by pulling a
needle under the stitches of the first seam (2).

29
3 4

If you think, that the line is too thin, then just work one more seam on
the top of the first 2 (3). Then fill the space inside the contour of the
eyelashes with stitch (4). Glue the black thread under the eye also
(the lower eyelid)

30
 After that take a thicker needle and thread it with a piece of
thread, which you used to make the head. You will need about 10 cm
only. Input the needle through the back of the head and withdraw it
above the eyelashes. Glue this thread over the eyelashes. Then pull
the needle to the second eye and repeat it. That is a “movable
eyelid”. Next, change the thread to brown embroidery thread and
glue it over the movable eyelids.

Next, we make the lips. First, you need to mark out the place for
the lips. Count 1 stitch down from the nose. The lips will be 3 stitches
wide.
Cut 30 cm of the thread (which you used to make the head).
Thread the needle with this piece of thread. Input the needle under
the chin (near the neck hole) and pull it to the lips corner. Leave a
small tip of the thread under the chin (3-4 cm).
Work long horizontal stitch over the 3 stitches (photo 1 on the
next page).

31
 1

long horizontal
stitch over 3
stitches

Start to roll the thread around that horizontal stitch (2)

32
 You can work just 1 layer and put a few stitches in the middle of
the lip to change the lip’s shape. After that you need to turn the head
up side down and repeat the same for the second lip, starting from
the very first step.

33
 Then work a couple stitches with brown thread at the corners of the
lips.

Next, in one brown or black thread you embroider the eyebrows.

The eyebrows should be 1 stitch over the eyes. Just embroider them
with a random stitches.

34
Count 10 stitches from the nose and sew on the ears to the head.

35
 Hair attachment
materials:
Mohair strands 10 cm long, 5 g (the weight depends on the hair
length) or a weft:
scissors;
Tailor’s pins;
marker for fabric;
B-7000 adhesive or similar.

If you want to make the hair from acrylic yarn yourself, then you can
watch the video on my channel --> https://youtu.be/wH9E0LE_SdY

P.S. I would also like to note that acrylic hair should be used only for interior
dolls, as they require special care.
I advice you to make a weft yourself, if you have a sewing machine.
The premade wefts are no good, because of the thick edge and a
dense hair. In our case the doll has a very small head and it won’t be
looking good on her. You can learn how to make a weft yourself in this
video --> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FC-m4lkD1pbkrHxEe2sWBfqyIgOO6q_w/view?usp=sharing

36
 After the doll weft will be done you proceed to its attachment.

Draw the hair line on the doll’s head with a marker for fabric. Then
start to glue the hair to the head along the hair line with B-7000
adhesive.

After the first round of the hair will be glued, you continue to glue
the hair in spiral. You need to glue the weft back to back in front of
the head and step 1 mm between the rows in the back.

After you reach the top of the head and there will be just a small
bold spot (about 1 cm), you cut the weft.

Take a piece of the weft (10-15cm) and roll it as shown in the photo
on the next page. Apply some adhesive on the base of that weft, to
not let it unroll.

37
 Glue the bold spot on the doll’s head and press the rolled piece of
weft to it. Take if few Tailor’s pins and stick then into the rolled weft.
Leave the pins like that until the hair will become completely dry.

Remove the pins. And if the strand on the top of the doll’s head is
still sticking out, then just iron that area (but cover the doll head with a
piece of fabric first).

38
 shading
materials:
dry pastel;
scissors;
brushes;
PVA glue;
tweezers.

Using a scissors crash the dry pastel into powder. Use the brash to
apply the pastel powder on the doll.

You should shade the following zones of the doll’s face:

• cheeks;
• chin;
• ears;
• the hair line;
• nose bridge;
• under the lower eyelid;
• above the upper eyelid;
• under the lower lip;
• between the lips (I like to use a few shades of pastel for lips);
• under the nose;
• under the eyebrows;
• you may also shade the iris with a darker color under the upper
eyelid.

39
 You should shade the following doll body areas:

• Elbows and their bends;

• Brushes;
• Palms;
• Armpits;
• Neck;
• clavige;
• Under the bust and between;
• Navel;
• Groin area;
• Knees and bend under the knees;
• Ankles;
• Toes.

After that, take a PVA glue and a brush. Apply the glue on the doll
fingers. Use tweezers or round nose pliers to squeeze each finger. It’ll
make the doll finger to look neat and it won’t let them to scroll.

You also need to apply PVA glue on the ears.

41
 dress
materials:
«YarnArt Canarias» thread, 20g/203m, color 6334 (emerald) ;
tulle;
hook 0,6 mm;
scissors;
button stud size 3 mm (gold) - 4 pcs;
beads 3,5 mm (white) - 8 pcs;
needles;
“Adelia Sienna” yarn or any other furry yarn.

Start with YarnArt Canarias first.

TOP:

1) 31 CH, then in the 2nd st from the hook: 30 sc in the chain, CH,
turn. (30)

2) 5 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 5 sc, CH, turn. (32)

3) 32 sc, CH, turn. (32)

4) 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, CH, turn. (34)

41
5) 34 sc, CH, turn. (34)
6) 5 sc, 5 slst, sc, (3 sc in the chain)*3, sc, 4 slst, sc, (3 sc in the
chain)*3, sc, 5 slst, 5 sc, CH, turn. (46)
7) 4 sc, 7 slst, 3 sc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 4 slst, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 7 slst, 4 sc,
CH, turn. (46)
8) 5 sc, 8 slst, 7 sc, 6 slst, 7 sc, 8 slst, 5 sc. (46)
Don’t turn in the end of the last row, but continue to work sc down to
the very first row. Then start the skirt of the dress.

SKIRT OF THE DRESS:

You work the first row of skirt on the other side of the chain.
1) (4 sc, 3 sc in one st)*6, CH, turn. (42)

2) sc, (3 sc in one st, 6 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 5 sc, CH, turn. (54)

3) 6 sc, (3 sc in one st, 8 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc, CH, turn. (66)

4) 3 sc, (3 sc in one st, 10 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 7 sc, CH, turn. (78)

5) 8 sc, (3 sc in one st, 12 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 4 sc, CH, turn. (90)

6) 5 sc, (3 sc in one st, 14 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 9 sc, CH, turn. (102)

7) 10 sc, (3 sc in one st, 16 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc, CH, turn.

(114)

42
8) 7 sc, (3 sc in one st, 18 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 11 sc, CH, turn. (126)

9) 12 sc, (3 sc in one st, 20 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 8 sc, CH, turn. (138)

10) 9 sc, (3 sc in one st, 22 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 13 sc, CH. (150)

11) 14 sc, (3 sc in one st, 24 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 10 sc, CH, turn.
(162)

12) 11 sc, (3 sc in one st, 26 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 15 sc, CH, turn.
(174)

13) 16 sc, (3 sc in one st, 28 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 12 sc, CH, turn.
(186)

14) 13 sc, (3 sc in one st, 30 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 17 sc, CH, turn.
(198)

15) 18 sc, (3 sc in one st, 32 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 14 sc, CH, turn.
(210)

16) 15 sc, (3 sc in one st, 34 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 19 sc, CH, turn.
(222)

17) 20 sc, (3 sc in one st, 36 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 16 sc, CH, turn.
(234)

18) 17 sc, (3 sc in one st, 38 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 21 sc, CH, turn.
(246)

19) 22 sc, (3 sc in one st, 40 sc)*5, 3 sc in one st, 18 sc, CH.

After the last row you don’t turn, but continue to work up along the
edge. You need to make 8 button loops (or less) on this side. Each
loop is 5 CH and 3 sc between the loops. Sew on the beads on the
opposite edge of the dress.

43
 Then you need to make an under skirt from tule. First of all you need
to cut the tule into stipes, 3 cm wide and 10 cm long each.

The amount of tule stripes depends on the tule texture and your
doll waist size.

Work CH 30 using the same thread as you used for the dress. This
chain will be used as a base to attach the tule.

Take a tule stipe and fold it in half. Make a loop (as shown ij the
photo on the next page) and put the chain through it.

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Repeat it till you reach the end of the chain.

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 Sew on the under skirt to the dress.

Then sew on the furry yarn (Adelia Sienna )along the edges of the
dress.

After that you need to install the button studs and make a
decorative lacing with red thread.

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 cardigan and panties
materials:
“PEHORAKA colored lace” thread, 50g/475m, color06 (red);
hook 0,6 mm;
scissors;
white button size 3 mm - 1 pc;
needle;
“Adelia Sienna” yarn or any other furry yarn.

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 Use red PEHORKA colored lace thread first.

1) 47 CH, in the 2nd st: 46 sc in chain, CH, turn. (46)

2) 5 sc, inc, 34 sc, inc, 5 sc, CH, turn. (48)

3) 48 sc, CH, turn. (50)

4) 5 sc, inc, 36 sc, inc, CH, turn. (52)

5) 10 sc, 4 CH, skip 9 sts, 12 sc, 4 CH, skip 9 sts, 10 sc, CH, turn. (32)

6) 10 sc, 4 sc in chain, 12 sc, 4 sc in chain, 10 sc, CH, turn. (40)

7) - 11) 40 sc, CH, turn. (40)

You don’t turn after the last row, but continue to work sc up to the
first row along the edge (look at the diagram in the photo below).
After you reach the very first row, you need to work over it: 10 sc, dec,
sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, sc, dec, 10 sc. When you reach the end, you need
to work 5 CH (button loop) and then sc down the edge.
10 sc, dec, sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, sc, dec, 10 sc
5 CH

SC SC

Cut off the thread and attach it to the sleeve (under the armpit). And
start the sleeve .

SLEEVE:

1) - 14) 13 sc, slst, CH. (13)

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 You can make the sleeves longer or shorter if you like. If you leave
just 14 rows for the sleeves, they will be 3/4 long.

After you finish the sleeves, you need to sew the furry yarn along the
edge. And sew on the button.

The using the same red thread, you make panties.

PANTIES:

1) 8 CH, in the 2nd st: 7 sc, CH, turn.

2) dec, 3 sc, dec, CH, turn. (5)

3) dec, sc, dec, CH, turn. (3)

4) - 7) 3 sc, CH, turn. (3)

8) inc, sc, inc, CH, turn. (5)

9) inc, 3 sc, inc, CH, turn. (7)

10) inc, 5 sc, inc, CH, turn. (9)

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11) inc, 7 sc, inc. (11)

In the end of the row 11 you don’t turn, but continue to work: 15 CH,
then over the first row: inc, 5 sc, inc, 15 CH, slst in the first st of the row
11, CH.

12) 11 sc, 15 sc in chain, 9 sc, 15 sc in chain, slst, CH. (50)

13) - 15) 50 sc, slst, CH. (50)

Cut off the thread. Then work sc along the edge to make them look
neater.

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 cap
materials:
“PEHORKA colored lace” thread, 50g/475m, color 06 (red) ;
“PEHORKA white lace” thread, 50g/475m;
hook 0,6 mm;
scissors;
В-7000 adhesive or similar.

You need to start with red thread first. Work CH 50, then close this
chain into a ring with slst. Then work CH and begin to work the pattern
below. The red font shows what stitches you should work with red
thread. The black font shows you where you need to work with white
thread.
P.S. When you’re changing the thread color you just work over the
previous thread, so that thread appears inside the stitches (that
technique will make invisible the thread changing).
1) (3 sc, 7 sc)*5, slst, CH. (50)

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2) sc, (3 sc, 7 sc)*4, 3 sc, 6 sc, slst, CH. (50)

3) 2 sc, (3 sc, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc)*4, 3 sc, 3 sc, dec, slst, CH. (45)

4) 3 sc, (3 sc, 6 sc)*4, 3 sc, 3 sc, slst, CH. (45)

5) 4 sc, (3 sc, 6 sc)*4, 3 sc, 2 sc, slst, CH. (45)

6) sc, dec, 2 sc, (3 sc, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*4, 3 sc, sc, slst, CH. (40)

7) 5 sc, (3 sc, 5 sc)*4, 3 sc, slst, CH. (40)

8) sc, (sc, dec, 2 sc, 3 sc)*4, sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 sc, slst, CH. (35)

9) 2 sc, (4 sc, 3 sc)*4, 4 sc, sc, slst, CH. (35)

10) 3 sc, (sc, dec, sc, 3 sc)*4, sc, dec, sc, slst, CH. (30)

11) sc, (3 sc, 3 sc)*4, 3 sc, 2 sc, slst, CH. (30)

12) 2 sc, (3 sc, sc, dec)*4, 3 sc, skip 1 st, slst, CH. (25)

13) sc, (2 sc, 3 sc)*4, 2 sc, 2 sc, slst, CH. (25)

14) 2 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*4, dec, sc, slst, CH. (20)

15) (3 sc, sc)*5, slst, CH. (20)

16) sc, (dec, sc, sc)*4, dec, sc, slst, CH. (15)

17) sc, (sc, 2 sc)*4, sc, sc, slst, CH. (15)

18) sc, sc, (sc, dec)*4, skip 1 st, slst, CH. (10)

19) (sc, skip 1 st, sc)*2, skip 1 st, slst, CH. (5)

Cut off the thread. Close the remaining hole at the top of the cap.

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 Next, make 2 red chains 50 CH each. You need to attach those
chains to the first row on the opposite sides. Those chains will be
used as a laces. Then using white thread you make a tassel.
Work: CH 15, 14 slst in chain, cut off th thread. Then same way
make 6 chains more.

Then connect all the chains together. Glue the thread tips at the
base of each chain and then roll white thread around them. Cut off
the excess threads (just leave one).

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Sew on the tassel to the top of the cap.

stockings
materials:
Sewing threads of pink and beige color ;
hook 0,6
needle;
jersey fabric.

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 You can use syndetic jersey or rib jersey knit fabric (which is mi
case). Cut a piece a fabric and put it over the doll leg. Using sewing
threads you work a seam along the contour of the doll’s leg. The seam
should be in the back of the leg.

Take off fabric from the leg. Cut off the excess fabric along the
seam.

Then just turn out the stocking. You can paint the stocking with
acrylic paint if you like.

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 You can also crochet the stocking from sewing threads.

STOCKINGS:

We begin with pink sewing thread. CH 20, close into a ring with a
slst, then CH and work:

1) - 51) 20 sc, slst, CH. (20) - change the thread color every 3 rows
(work 3 rows with pink, change thread color to beige for the next 3
rows, then pink again and etc.)

Beige

52) 18 sc, dec, slst, CH. (19)

53) - 54) 19 sc, slst, CH. (19)

Pink

55) 17 sc, dec, slst, CH. (18)

56) - 57) 18 sc, slst, CH. (18)

Beige

58) 17 sc, inc. (19)

59) - 60) 19 sc, slst, CH. (19)

Pink

61) 18 sc, inc. (20)

62) - 63) 20 sc, slst, CH. (20)

Beige

64) - 66) 20 sc, slst, CH. (20)

56
Beige

70) (3 sc, dec)*4, slst, CH. (16)

71) (2 sc, dec)*4, slst, CH. (12)

72) (sc, dec)*4, slst, CH. (8)

Pink

73) 8 sc, slst, CH. (8)

74) (2 sc, dec)*2, slst, CH. (6)

75) (sc, dec)*2, slst, CH. (4)

76) 2 dec, slst, CH. (2)

77) dec. (1) - cut off the thread

Make the second stocking the

same way.

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 wings
materials:
Beads size 11/0;
wire for beading size 0,5 mm;
white felt;
neodymium magnet size 8 mm - 1 pc;
scissors;
B-7000 adhesive or similar.

You will need to cut about 80 cm (31,5'’) of the wire. If you like yo
make a bigger wings or a wing of a different shape, then take a longer
wire.
String the beads on the wire. Stop when it’ll be stringed bout 15 cm
of beads. Step about 5 cm at one end of the wire and twist the wire
(as in the picture below).

58
 Don’t cut the wire. Continue to string the beads for the second
wing. And twist the wire in the center, when you finish.

We still don’t cut the wire. Now you need to make the lower wing. It is
a bit smaller, then the previous. You string 10 cm of the beads for it.

Twist the wire at the center and repeat for the second wing.

59
 Now you can cut off the excess wire. Then you need to cut out 2
circles of felt. They should be a bit bigger, then the size of your
magnet.

Put one piece of felt under the wings center. Then put the second
piece of felt over the first one. Then with white sewing thread you sew
up together the edges of the felt. But before you sew it up till the end,
you need to put a magnet between the pieces of felt. And then sew up
the rest of the edge.

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 At your will, you can decorate the felt (from the outer side of the
wings) with glitter or rhinestones. But don’t over do it, other way the
wings may fall of the doll back.

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 contact info
Instagram - h ps://www.instagram.com/julja_myzina/
Boosty - h ps://boosty.to/julja.myzina
Vkontakte - h ps://vk.com/myzinadolls
Facebook - h ps://www.facebook.com/juljamyzinadolls
E-mail - julja.myzina@gmail.com
WhatsApp - +7 (918) 955-40-24
Website - h ps:// nylovelydolls.company.site/
YouTube -
h ps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiEhsYj1BNTSNhLoAffq0
7Q

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