Preparation and Physical
Preparation and Physical
a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t
Article history: The aim of this research was to investigate the recycling of cotton waste garments by fibre regeneration.
Received 20 February 2015 Easy care finished cotton fabrics and indigo dyed waste denim garments were successfully purified,
Received in revised form dissolved in a suitable solvent and spun into fibres. The physical properties of the resultant fibres were
18 August 2015
compared with standard lyocell fibres spun from wood pulp and the fibres regenerated from the cotton
Accepted 19 August 2015
waste garments exhibited improved mechanical and molecular properties relative to the typical fibres
Available online 29 August 2015
regenerated from wood pulp. Furthermore the results have indicated that a suitable blend of wood pulp
and pulp reclaimed form cotton based waste garments can produce fibres with properties that are in-
Keywords:
Recycling
termediate to cotton and lyocell fibres. The results suggest an alternative approach to fibre resource
Regenerated fibres management by converting cotton based waste garment through regeneration processing into second
Lyocell lifetime cellulosic fibre. The approach will contribute to the reduction of both economic and environ-
Waste cotton garments mental impact of waste garments and better management of resources required for production of cotton
and synthetic fibres.
© 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.08.086
0959-6526/© 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
4446 L.V. Haule et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 112 (2016) 4445e4451
waste garments into fibres for the second life cycle. The chemical 2. Material and methods
conversion of the waste garments into new fibres must consider
the separation of fibre blends and removal of finishes such as dyes 2.1. Methods
and other functional finishes which may hinder the conversion
process. 2.1.1. Preparation and purification of the fabrics
In order to overcome the environmental and economic impact In order to simulate the effect of extended washing during do-
of the waste textiles, a closed loop recycling technology is now mestic usage a 100% plain woven cotton fabric, 152 g/m2, was
being considered. The first attempt to recycle cotton based waste washed 50 times with ECE-phosphate based detergent in a Was-
garments by regeneration into fibres was patented by Firgo et al. cator FOM-71 machine, as previously reported (Haule et al., 2012),
(1997) where the process involved dissolution of the waste gar- and the fabric was the source material for deconstruction into pulp
ments in N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) solution, spinning and spinning of regenerated lyocell, ReCell-1 fibres. Similarly in
and regeneration of the cellulose fibres. The physical properties of order to prepare crosslinked crease resistant fabrics the plain
the fibres were relatively higher than the other regenerated and woven cotton fabric was treated with 100 g/L DMDHEU easy care
cotton fibres. However in the Firgo et al. patent, no consideration finish (Haule et al., 2012). The easy care finished cotton fabric was
was taken for the effects of finishes such as dyes and easy care then Wascator washed 50 times with ECE-phosphate based deter-
finishes on the dissolution of the waste garments. Subsequently gent and subsequently purified in acid-alkali solution to produce a
Haule et al. have demonstrated that a typical easy care finish component source of the ReCell-2 fibres (Haule et al., 2014). The
applied to cotton garments is durable almost through the entire ReCell-2 fibres were prepared from a blend of 20% cellulose
first life cycle of the garment (Haule et al., 2012). Further work recovered after purification of the DMDHEU treated cotton fabrics
demonstrated that the easy care finish could also dramatically and 80% wood pulp. In order to prepare the waste indigo dyed
reduce the NMMO solubility of the cotton waste garments during denim garments for deconstruction into pulp for spinning, 5 pairs
fibre making process and the methods for removal of the easy care of indigo dyed waste denim were washed once with ECE-phosphate
finishes were optimized in order to establish viable commercial based detergent, tumble dried, zippers, buttons and threads
processing technology (Haule et al., 2014). Therefore this work removed manually and considered the source of ReCell-Denim
extends the previous work by studying the dissolution of the pu- fibres.
rified cotton waste garments in NMMO solution and subsequent
spinning into new fibres. 2.1.2. Deconstruction of the fabrics
The choice of NMMO solution as a solvent for the waste cotton The purified cotton fabrics were deconstructed into a pulp using
garments is due to the fact that the solvent can dissolve completely a laboratory Valley beater (Weverk 45486) with the fabrics/gar-
cellulose without any degradation, is 99% recyclable, safe to work ments hand-cut into 10 10 mm pieces prior to introduction into
with and safe in the environment in case of any spillages the beater deconstruction process. The parameters used in the
(Woodings, 1995). The dissolution of cellulose in NMMO solution is beating process were set in accordance with the Technical Associ-
achieved by constant mixing at increasing temperature and ation of Pulp and Paper Institutes (TAPPI) standards (TAPPI, 1996).
reduced pressure so as to dehydrate the tertiary mixture of NMMO, 360 g of fabric pieces was mixed in 23 L of water to obtain a con-
water and cellulose into cellulose-NMMO solution (Chanzy, 1982; sistency of 1.56%. The gap between beater roll and beater plate was
Chanzy et al., 1990; Kim et al., 2005). The dehydrated cellulose/ adjusted by putting a standard weight of 4.5 kg on the beater plate
NMMO solution is formed in a spinneret, stretched in an air gap and lever arm. After running the Valley beater for 90 min, the stock was
then the cellulose fibre is precipitated in any polar liquid which is a collected, drained and air dried for further tests.
non-solvent to the cellulose (Johnson, 1969; Firgo et al., 1997).
During the dissolution process care should be taken to ensure no 2.1.3. Determination of the molecular properties of the prepared
oxidation of the solvent occurs, in this case antioxidants are pulp
incorporated in the dissolution process. The process of dissolution The limiting viscosity of the pulps prepared from various types
of cellulose in NMMO solution and regeneration of fibres is known of material was determined as per the previously reported method
commercially as a lyocell process and the resultant fibres are (Haule et al., 2012). The viscosity average molecular weight (Mv) of
generically known as lyocell fibres. The lyocell fibres are charac- the fibres was calculated by determining the limiting viscosity and
terized by a high degree of orientation of the fibrils and weak using the MarkeHouwink relationship (Immergut and Eirich,
intrafibrillar hydrogen bonds resulting in the fibres being suscep- 1953), Equation (1).
tible to fibrillation under mechanical action and wet conditions
(Huong Mai et al., 2008; Zhang et al., 2005; Taylor, 1998). Although ½h ¼ Km ðMvÞa (1)
this tendency to wet fibrillation can make dyeing of lyocell fibres
more difficult, if controlled, fibrillation can introduce an attractive where Km and a are constants and for the CED solution are 1.33 and
appearance and appealing handle to garments made from the 0.9, respectively, and [h] is the limiting viscosity of the cellulose.
lyocell fibres (Bates et al., 2004, 2008; Goswami et al., 2007; Zhang
et al., 2005; Taylor, 1998). Additional beneficial features of the 2.1.4. Dissolution and spinning of fibres
lyocell fibres are the relatively high elasticity and regain that pro- In order to spin fibres the required spinning dope was prepared
vide shapeability and comfort to the garments. Overall the lyocell by mixing 300 g of 50% NMMO solution with 27 g pulp and 0.2 g n-
process is considered as an environmentally benign process and the propyl gallate using a laboratory scale mixer. The dissolution pro-
lyocell fibres have attractive mechanical and comfort properties. cess was made possible by mixing the pulp and NMMO solution at
Therefore in this paper the lyocell process was considered for increasing temperature and vacuum at suitable steps until the final
the regeneration of fibres from the 100% cotton waste garments spinning dope was composed of 9% cellulose, 13% water and 78%
from various sources. The cotton based waste garments were pu- NMMO. For every sample the dissolution dope was checked for
rified, dissolved and spun into fibres. The resultant properties of the fibre solubility using a light microscope. The fibres were then spun
recycled fibres such as molecular weight, density, tensile and Dy- from a laboratory scale spinning machine at Lenzing AG, Austria.
namic Mechanical Analysis (DMA) were determined and discussed The spinneret used had 19 holes of 100 mm in size and the spinning
with respect to the standard lyocell fibres. temperature was 115 C. The dope throughput was 0.03 g/min per
L.V. Haule et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 112 (2016) 4445e4451 4447
hole, the air gap conditions were set at 30 mm, 24 C and 53%
relative humidity.
The winding speed was 25.1 m/min. and water was used to
precipitate the fibres. The fibres were then oven dried at 60 C
overnight.
Ds
L ¼ 121 cel (2)
Ws
Fig. 3. SEM micrograph of ReCell-2 fibres at 5000 magnification and an accelerating Comparison of the mechanical properties of the fibres regen-
voltage of 5 kV.
erated from cotton-based waste garments and lyocell fibres,
Table 2, indicated that the cotton waste garments can be regener-
ated into ReCell fibres with a linear density almost equal to that of
the lyocell fibres. A feature of the ReCell-2 fibres was the lower
coefficient of variation in the linear density which may be due to
improved rheology of the blend pulp which formed into fibres
relatively easily, Table 2.
Examination of the dry tenacity of the fibres, Table 2, as
measured at conditioned state of 23 C and relative humidity of 65%
indicated that the tenacity was decreasing in the order of:
Table 2
Tensile properties of Lyocell and ReCell fibres.
Linear density (dtex) 1.3 9.4 1.3 8.8 1.3 9.1 1.3 4.3
Dry tenacity (cN/tex) 34.7 9.6 48.7 10.1 42.5 8.4 37.2 10.4
Wet tenacity (cN/tex) 28.8 8.8 42.4 14.6 35.2 12.5 32.6 8.1
Dry elongation (%) 11.2 14.1 9.2 14.1 9.7 13.4 9.9 17.1
Wet elongation (%) 13.2 14.0 11.0 13.6 14.2 18.6 14.1 17.1
Dry modulus (cN/tex) 205 144 303 109 298 85 210 71
Wet modulus (cN/tex) 112 89 152 56.0 162 90 116 55
Cv ¼ coefficient of variation.
A common feature of the mechanical properties of all the tested the greater cellulosic modification during their “first lifetime”
fibres was the unusual variability levels in the coefficient of varia- experience.
tion, Table 2, and this was possibly due to the methodology used to A comparison of tensile properties of the ReCell, lyocell and
mount the fibres for the tensile tests. Further work is underway to cotton (Cook, 1984; Bredereck and Hermanutz, 2005; Woodings,
improve this aspect of the fibre analysis. 1995; Taylor, 1998) fibres indicated that the tenacity of the ReCell
Re-examination of the wet properties of the ReCell and lyocell fibres was above that of cotton and standard lyocell, however the
fibres indicated that both fibres experienced a reduction in tenacity extension for ReCell fibres was intermediate between the cotton
and modulus and an increase in elongation at break when in the and lyocell values, Fig. 6. The observed extensibility performance of
wet state, Table 2. The two types of fibres have almost the same the ReCell fibres perhaps provides an opportunity in garment
level of reduction in the wet tenacity and modulus. In particular the making where the intermediate performance offers advantages
wet tenacity of the ReCell-1, ReCell-Denim and ReCell-2 fibres over both cotton and lyocell. The relatively higher tenacity of the
decreased by 13%, 17% and 12%, respectively, whereas the corre- ReCell fibres compared to the virgin cotton tenacity was probably
sponding properties for lyocell fibres decreased by 17%. In addition due to the fact that during purification and dissolution of the cotton
the wet modulus of the ReCell-1, ReCell-Denim, ReCell-2 and lyocell waste garments, the “degraded and modified” oligomers and
fibres decreased by 50%, 46%, 45% and 45%, respectively. The polymers also dissolve into the precursor cellulosic dope but during
elongation at break of the wet ReCell-1, and lyocell fibres was subsequent spinning of the dope into fibres these weakened cel-
reduced by 20% and 18%, respectively, whereas that of ReCell- lulose molecules were not reconstituted into the cellulosic fibres.
Denim, ReCell-2 fibres decreased by 46% and 42%, respectively. Hence the fibres are relatively free from polymeric “defects” and
The deterioration of mechanical properties of the regenerated fi- offer the ability to bear higher tensile loads.
bres in the wet swollen state was due to the weakening of the
cellulosic inter-polymer chain hydrogen bonding fibres in water. 3.4. DMA analysis of the fibres
When cellulose fibres are swollen in water, the polar water in-
teracts with the hydroxyl groups of the amorphous faction of the The DMA technique was used to assess the effect of temperature
cellulose, which disrupt the inter-hydrogen bonding in the cellu- on the mechanical properties of the ReCell-1, ReCell-2 and ReCell-
lose hence reducing the fibres ability to bear loads and increases Denim fibres and their properties compared with the standard
the elongation at break of the fibres. The nature of the relatively lyocell fibres. The specimen was heated at constant rate of
high reduction in elongation at break of the wet ReCell-Denim and 20e200 C and during the heating the specimen was deformed at
ReCell-2 fibres is uncertain at present but is probably a reflection of constant strain under a frequency of 1 Hz.
A comparison of storage modulus of the fibres at increasing
temperature indicated that the fibres reclaimed from cotton waste
Fig. 6. Comparison of extension at break (C) and tenacity (A) of ReCell, Lyocell and
cotton fibres. The cotton figure values are literature-based (Cook, 1984; Bredereck and
Fig. 5. Stress/strain curves for >-Lyocell and B-ReCell-1 fibres (each 1.33 dtex). Hermanutz, 2005; Woodings, 1995; Taylor, 1998).
4450 L.V. Haule et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 112 (2016) 4445e4451
garments have higher storage modulus that the lyocell fibres, the second hand clothing at the destination countries. Coupled to
however they all showed a similar rate of change of storage the export of second hand clothing is the more fundamental chal-
modulus with temperature especially in the temperature ranging lenge of production of cotton and synthetic fibres and better utili-
from 20 C to 140 C, Fig. 7. zation of dwindling land and water resources. Therefore this paper
The higher storage modulus for the fibres regenerated from proposes an alternative approach to fibre resource management
waste cotton garments was related to its relatively higher degree of and the development of technology to convert cotton-based waste
polymerization. The similarity in the slopes of the storage mod- garments through regeneration processing into second lifetime
ulietemperature curves for the ReCell fibres and lyocell fibres was cellulosic fibres.
mainly due to the similarity in their dissolution and physical Future work will focus on the characterization of fibres regen-
spinning conditions. erated from waste cottons in order to provide information on the
Therefore it can be concluded that the DMA results highlighted structure/properties of the fibres and their associated processing
the similar behaviour between the ReCell fibres derived from cot- performance.
ton waste garments and the standard lyocell fibres in terms of the
response of the mechanical properties of the fibres to deformation
at increasing temperature. Hence it appears the new ReCell fibres Acknowledgements
can withstand processing conditions similar to those of lyocell
fibres. We gratefully recognise the financial sponsorship from the
Tanzanian Gatsby Trust and the technical support of Lenzing,
3.4.1. Conclusions Austria, in furthering these research studies.
The pulps prepared from a range of typical “used” cotton fabrics
were successfully dissolved in NMMO solution and spun into fibres.
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