Linen

Colour – yellowish to gray

Length – 18 to 30 inches
Tensile strength – tenacity of 5.5 to 6.5 gms/den.
Elongation at a break – 2.7 to 3.5 %
Elastic recovery – not enough
Moisture regain – 10 to 12%
Effect of heat – excellent resistance, a good conductor of heat
Effect of sunlight – not affected
Resiliency – very poor
Lusture – brighter than cotton, slightly silky
Abrasion resistance – moderate
Texture – Thick and thin
Durability – Good

Fabric characteristics
Linen fabrics have a course, natural-looking texture, and a slight
sheen. They’re available in various weights and weaves.

Positive qualities
Linen is strong, absorbent, draws heat away from the body, and can
withstand high temperatures. It is also a smooth fiber that’s lint free.
Drawbacks
Linen tends to wrinkle easily unless treated with a special finish. It
can also shrink and soften if Linen also has poor elasticity – it tends
to stretch without recovering its shape.

Care requirements
Since linen fabrics can shrink or soften if laundered, dry-cleaning is
usually recommended. Iron linen using a high temperature.

Yarn Measure norms

The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the “lea”, which is the
number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300. For example, a
yarn having a size of 1 lea will give 300 yards per pound.
The standard measurement for linen is g/m2 (or GSM) and this
denotes the fabric's weight in grams per meter squared.
Linen Fabric, Linen Curtain and Upholstery Fabric:
Colour Properties
Linen varies from a creamy white to greyish brown, It may be
bleached to white or near white, and is found on the market at the
various stages of bleaching. Linen possesses a natural crispness when
ironed damp, thus does not require starching, and has a natural
lustre. It becomes softer and more lustrous with use and laundering,
so that a fine, long used piece of linen may have almost the feel and
appearance of silk. Good quality linen is very durable and will wear a
long time. It is readily refreshed by washing and ironing, and can be
ironed at a somewhat higher temperature than cotton. Untreated
linen feels cool to the touch and is one of our most absorbent fibres.
It absorbs very rapidly and also is quick drying so it is one of the most
comfortable fabrics for warm climates. Linen has sometimes been
considered an expensive fabric, but today it is competitive in price
with many other fabrics. Its durability should be taken into account
when considering costs - it is the perfect choice for made to measure
curtains and blinds and also for upholstery.

Strength
Flax is very strong and increases about 10% in strength when wet.
The polygonal cross section of the fibres increases inter-fibre friction
and hence flax yarns are not only very strong but also usually very
firm. Flax is the strongest natural fibre in common use - so it can be
recommended for upholstery.

Elasticity
The inelasticity of flax helps to ensure that flax fabrics and garments
retain their shape. The length and strength of the fibres prevent to
some extent “bagginess and bottoming”, as the fabric of the garment
is so inelastic that it will normally not yield on stretching.

Moisture Absorbency and Comfort

Raw flax fibre is covered with a film of wax which prevent easy
wetting of the fibres. This is often noticeable with new wiping-up
towels. Usually flax has a moisture content of 10% absorbing up to
20% before feeling damp. This good moisture absorbing up to 20%
before feeling damp, good moisture absorbency makes flax a
comfortable fibre, as perspiration is readily and quickly absorbed.
Due to the good moisture absorbency of flax and its smooth fabric
surfaces it is a comfortable fibre under most conditions.

Thermal Properties
From good to very good heat conducting property of flax makes it
the most heat resistant fibre in common use - so it is particularly
suitable for e.g. warm curtains and blinds. It is also regarded as a
“cool” fibre, for the fibres will readily conduct away body heat, if the
air temperature is lower than body temperature. This is further
enhanced by the smoothness of flax fabrics which allow maximum
contact with the skin. Because flax is such a good conductor of heat
it may be ironed with a hot iron. Damp or steam ironing assists
greatly in ironing out stubborn wrinkles and creases. Even though
flax has such good heat resistance, boiling water and prolonged
repeated steaming are detrimental to the fibre, fabric etc. Such
treatment will break down the wax and natural gums between the
cells forming when fibre. A point to be remembered when
laundering. Being cellulose, flax fibres ignite readily and burn quickly.
Please note that we offer an optional Fire Retardant Treatment for
both fabrics and curtains.
Linen manufacturing process:
RAW MATERIAL:

Linen is fabric that is made from very fine fibers, derived from the
flax plant. These fibers are carefully extracted, spun into yarn, and
then woven into long sheets of comfortable, durable fabric called
linen fabric.the fibres acquired from European flax are far more
resilient and glossy
HACKLING:

The aim of hackling is to clean, untangle and aligh parallel the

bundles of scutched flax, to separate the fibrous bundles and to start
dividing them., stretched, cleaned and eventually twined into a
coarse rope.
ROVING:

This rope is further stretched and wound into increasingly finer

strands of linen fibres in aisle after aisle of "roving" machines,
ceaselessly spinning under the watchful supervision of career
craftsmen.
SPINNING:

Spinning is the final operation in the whole spinning process, for both
longer fiber as well as short fiber spinning. There are several
methods for spinning the flax
1 wet spinning
which can be done with grey, boiled and bleached roves
2 semi-wet spinning
3 dry-spinning
These technologies apply the same principle of drafting, attenuating
and twisting the fibers in order to obtain yarn cohesion. The
porperties of yarn and hence the choice of process depend on the
type and features of the desired yarn. Wet spinning remains a special
feature of flax fiber spinning, it enables a yarn an outstanding quality
and finesness to be produced.
Depending on the fiber lenght, the next three steps for
processing linen vary as follows:
LONG FIBER SPINNING:

1 Collecting tow
During hackling, a certain quantity of short fibers is removed form
the strands of line flax. This hackled tow is salvaged by doffers an
collected in containers below the machines. Graded into two
categories as foot or top tow, it will be used in spinning.
2 Forming the sliver
The strands of refined fline flax are palced on a slanting stable, made
up of a series of moving transversal gills. After being fed into two
calendar rollers, then coiled, these slivers are then pressed in order
to make up packages that will be tied up and stocked.
3 Drafting preparation
The flax slivers are then subjected to several doubling and drafting
operations. The aim of these steps is to harmonize the weight of the
slivers, to align them parallel, to attenuate the fibers and to obtain
roves.
SHORT FIBER SPINNING

1 Carding
In the carding process, the fibers are mechanically untangled,
separated and formed into slivers. The card for linen is principally the
same as for wool. It consists of a large cylinder that is surrounded by
card points; each point being made up of a worker roller (a slowly
turning cylinder) and a card stripper. The raw materials are mixed in
cariable proportions according to the quality required for the yarn.
2 Preparation and combing
After carding, the slivers are fed through an intersecting or warp gills.
To prepare tow for combing, it generally only needs to undergo this
process twice.
3 Doubling and drafting
After combing the sliver, the tow moves on towards a series of
drafting frames, of intersecting or warp gills type in order to undergo
doubling and drafting. After three runs, the weight is even and a
count suitable for spinning is obtained.
Specifications of machines used by them:
1. Projectile Loom
2. Air Jet JAT810
3. Water Jet
4. Rapier Loom
5. Aalidhara twisting machines TEXPRO - 230LT (100% in
house yarn processing )
6. Tajima and ZSK embroidery machines .
7. Saurer Shuttle embroidery machine Epoca 7
1 Projectile Weaving Machine:
Projectile weaving machine is a shuttle-less loom method for filling
yarn insertion using a small metal device resembling a bullet in
appearance with a clamp for gripping the yarn at one end, which is
then propelled into and through the shed.
In this weaving machine the weft insertion is carried out by small
clamp projectiles, which number depends on the weaving width and
which with their grippers take out the weft yarn from big cross-
wound bobbins and insert it into the shed always in the same
direction.
Main parts of Projectile Weaving Machine:
(Refer Figure)
Torsion bar A: As shown in figure it has splinted ends as seen in the
fig one end is secured firmly at the clamping flange with provision for
adjusting twisting angle.
The twisting length of the torsion is 721 mm. It is diameter is 15, 17
or 19 mm depending upon the model. Larger the diameter higher the
initial projectile speed. The angular twisting of torsion bar at
commencement of picking is 28-30O.
Picking shaft B: The free end of the torsion bar is linked with the
picking shaft through spines.
Picking lever C: The picking lever is clamped on the picking shaft.
Picking shoe D: The picking lever carries the picking shoe at its top
end.
Picking shaft lever E: It is a rigid part of the picking shaft.
Toggle plates F: The toggle plates center at o carry a roller G and
connected to the picking shaft lever E through a link H, They are
covered at the bottom.
Picking cam I: It is mounted on a shaft J and rotated by bevel wheels
K once every pick. It rotates in the direction of the arrow shown in
fig. It carries a roller R after the nose part.
Oil break L: The shock of the picking is taken by the oil break.
Where,A=Torsion bar ,B=Picking shaft ,C=Picking lever ,D=Picking
shoe ,E=Picking shaft lever ,F=Toggle plate ,G=Antifriction
bowl ,H=Link ,I=Picking cam ,J=Shaft ,K=Bevel wheels ,L=Oil
brake ,P=Projectile ,R=Projectile guide.
Working Principle of Projectile Weaving Machine:
Weft is withdrawn from the package through a tension device, weft
tensioner, shuttle feeder, scissor, and weft end gripper. The picking
arm has released the projectile which is shown in the guide teeth at
the mid-shed position. At the receiving side the weft end gripper is
positioned to grip the weft after reception. The shuttle break is
shown in its operating position with the shuttle returner ready to
push the projectile to the release and tucking position. Illustrates the
torsion bar picking system of the machine. Strain energy is
developed in the bar and released in such a way as to transfer the
maximum possible strain energy to the projectile before it separates
from the picker shoe.
The torsion bar (A) has its splined ends rigidly constrained in an
adjustable housing with provision for adjusting the maximum angle
of twist and projectile initial velocity. The other end of the torsion
rod is splined into the picking lever (C) which carries the picking shoe
(D) at its extremity. The projectile (P) is illustrated in the shuttle lifter
with the projectile spring opener. The bevel wheel (K) rotates the
picking cam shaft (J) which carries the picking cam (I). The picking
shaft lever (E) is rigidly connected to the torsion bar and through a
short linkage to the toggle plate (F) center at anti friction bowl (G).
The action of the cam is for the small roller to bear against the toggle
rotate it anti clockwise about anti friction bowl (G), thus withdrawing
the picking shoe to its rearmost position. In this position the center
of the toggle arrangement is in line and the torsion bar is twisted to
its predetermined angle.
The nose of the picking cam then bears against the roller carried
between the toggle plates and moves the central pivot of the toggle
system off line center, thus permitting the strain energy in the rod to
be transmitted instantaneously to the projectile. The projectile
separates from the shoe after 6.4 cm travel in 0.007 s as a velocity of
about 24.4 m/s after being subjected to a maximum acceleration of
about 6700 m/s2 at a point 1.5 cm inboard of the rest position. The
residual energy in the picking system, some 62% of the whole is
absorbed in the hydrolic buffer the body and plunger of which are
shown at (L).
Latest development in projectile weaving machine
1. Color selection , 2. Electronic weft breaker
Advantages of Projectile Weaving Machine:
Low power consumption
Reduced waste of filling material due to unique clean, tucked-in
selvages
Quick warp and style change
Mechanical and operational reliability and ease of use
Low spare parts requirement and easy maintenance
2 Air Jet Loom:
An air-jet loom is a shuttle less loom that uses a jet of air to propel
the weft yarn through the warp shed. The air jet weaving machine
combines high performance with low manufacturing requirements. It
has an extremely high insertion rate. Due to its exceptional
performance, air jet machines are used primarily for the economical
production of standard fabrics, covering a wide range of styles.

Working Principle Of Air Jet Loom

The yarn is pulled from the supply package at a constant speed,
which is regulated by the rollers, located with the measuring disk just
in front of the yarn package. The measuring disk removes a length of
yarn appropriate to the width of the fabric being woven. A clamp
holds the yarn in an insertion storage area, where an auxiliary air
nozzle forms it into the shape of a hairpin.
The main nozzle begins blowing air so that the yarn is set in motion
as soon as clamp opens. The hairpin shape is stretched out as the
yarn is blown into the guiding channel of the reed with the shed
open. The yarn is carried through the shed by the air currents
emitted by the relay nozzles along the channel. The initial propulsive
force is provided by a main nozzle. Electronically controlled relay
nozzles provide additional booster jets to carry the yarn across the
shed. The maximum effective width for air-jet weaving machines is
about 355 cm. At the end of the each insertion cycle the clamp
closes; the yarn is beaten in, and then cut, after the shed is closed.
Again some selvage-forming device is required to provide stability to
the edges of the fabric.
These weaving machines use a jet of air to propel the weft yarn
through the shed at rates of up to 600 ppm. Date from
manufacturers indicate that air-jet looms operate at speed up to
2200 meters of pick inserted per minute. They can weave
multicolored yarns to make plaids and are available with both dobby
and jacquard patterning mechanism.
Air jet weaving is more popular because the machines cost less to
purchase, install, operate, and maintain than rapier or projectile
weaving machines, and the air jet can be used on a broader variety
of yarns than a water jet.
3 Water-jet Weaving Machine:
Water jet weaving refers to weaving on a water jet loom. A water jet
loom is similar to an air jet loom but uses water instead of air to
transport the yarn around the shed. Water jet looms can weave very
quickly whilst the yarn is not damaged as water is less abrasive than
solid matter moving the yarn around (like it is with rapier weaving
looms). Water jet looms are furthermore less noisy than rapier
weaving looms and use comparatively less power.
Water jet weaving is only suitable for yarns of hydrophobic nature
like Polyester PET, Acetate CA or Polyamides (6 or 6.6 for example).
Materials that are hydrophilic - natural fibers like cotton, nettle or
hemp for example - better not be applied in water jet weaving as the
fabric would become too heavy during weaving due to extreme
moisture absorption. Despite only hydrophobic materials being used
for water jet weaving, one has to dry the fabric afterwards.
Operation principle
The figure shows how the machine operates. The weft yarn, which is
fed from cone 7, is drawn-off by a feeding and measuring device 2
and then passes through a tension regulator 3 and a weft clamp 4.
When the insertion has to take place, the weft clamp loosens its hold
and the thread inserted inside a nozzle 1 is struck by a jet of
pressurized water and launched through the shed at high speed.
After the insertion has taken place, while the weft is held flat by the
threads which are moved by the leno mechanisms 5, the thermal
knives 14 enter into action on the launch side to cut the weft, and on
the opposite side to trim the fabric. A yarn clamping device 13 holds
the weft waste which is cut off by the right-handed thermal knife
while rotating gears arrange for its removal (center selvedge).
The water is conveyed by a pump 8, provided with a filter, the piston
of which is controlled by a cam 10 producing the phases of water
suction from the container 9 and of water supply to nozzle 1.
The sequence of the launch phases is the following:
 the pump 8 enters into action and the initial water jet serves
only to straighten the residual small piece of weft, from nozzle
1 to thermal knife 14.
 This action, which has a duration time varying from 5 to 30
rotation degrees of the main shaft, depends on the yarn count
and is named guide angle.
 The yarn flight forms a so-called flight angle, leaving clamp 4
open to permit to the pressurized water jet to insert the weft
thread into the shed.
 The clamp opening time varies according to reed width and to
loom running speed. On yarn exit from the shed, there is an
 electrical feeler or an infrared sensor which checks the
presence of the weft end and makes the machine to stop in
case of absence of the weft.
A drying device removes the humidity absorbed by the fabric,
sucking it through grooves produced in the front beam 6 of the
machine. A maximum of two weft colors can be inserted (weft
mixer).
4 Rapier Weaving Machine:
It is a shuttleless weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried
through the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by
finger-like carriers called rapiers.
a stationary package of yarn is used to supply the weft yarns in the
rapier machine. One end of a rapier, a rod or steel tape, carries the
weft yarn. The other end of the rapier is connected to the control
system. The rapier moves across the width of the fabric, carrying the
weft yarn across through the shed to the opposite side. present
weaving speed of about 600-700 strokes/min
Rapier insertion system
The weft, which is under constant proper control, remains connected
to the cloth as a consequence of the previous insertion (or it remains
blocked under the temple in the other cases). At the right moment,
the selection gear acts in a way, that the end of the weft is caught by
the bearing rapier 1 mounted on a flexible tape or on a rod and at
the same time is cut by shears on the selvedge side. The weft, after
adequate braking, is transported to the center of the shed, where
the bearing rapier meets the drawing rapier 2, which takes over the
weft thread and, while holding it by its end, transports it back to the
opposite side, where the rapier leaves it free, thus completing the
insertion.
The weft exchange between the two rapiers in the middle of the
shed can take place in two different ways, that is:
 negative system
 positive system.
Passage of weft yarn in the rapier loom:
The weft package is mounted on the weft creel. The number of weft
packages is used according to the number of colours in weft yarn
getting used. The yarn passes first from the thread guide and weft
tensioner mounted on the weft creel. Next, the weft yarn passes
through the weft accumulator. This weft accumulator ensures
continuous yarn supply at a constant tension. When the weft
package reaches to near the exhaustion position, the yarn tension
gets increased to maximum. The weft accumulator neutralizes this
effect and keeps the weft tension constant throughout the package.
The weft tensioner mounted on the weft creel prevents the
overlapping of adjacent yarn coils on the accumulator. The number
of weft accumulators used gets equal to the number of colours
getting used in the weft yarn.
Now the yarn passes through the filling detector. The filling detector
consists of either a single weft sensing channel or multi weft sensing
channels. The filling detector monitors the complete journey of the
weft from one side to another side. If weft insertion gets either failed
or felt short in length, it stops the loom immediately. The yarn next
passes through the thread guide which helps to keep the weft yarns
separate. It also prevents entangling the different weft yarns
together. The thread guide consists of many ceramic eyes in it.
Finally, weft yarn passes through the eye of the weft selector needle.
The weft selector needle gets selected according to the weft
sequence feed in the control computer.
Rapier loom Air-jet loom
In Rapier loom, the weft is In Airjet loom, the weft insertion
carried from left side of the is done by using air. Main
loom to the middle through the nozzles and relay nozzles will
opened warp shed by the rapier carry the weft through the warp
shed opened.
Rapier looms are more suitable airjet looms are preferred due to
for weaving with delicate yarn high production of standard
like silk, wool, linen, chenille, fabrics. yarn dyed fabrics like
etc. denim are also being woven in
airjet looms extensively due to
better yarn quality
They are also mostly used with The most common shedding
dobby for weave patterns up to used here is cam motion, though
20 held frames. Some of the dobby and jacquard are also
popular fabrics woven in rapier used based on the individual
looms. Either dobby or jacquard requirement. For airjet looms,
will be used for shedding. yarn quality should be good
The speed of the loom will be The speed can go around 1200
maximum 600 to 650 RPM, RPM again depending upon the
depending upon the width width.
Antiviral bedding range and sustainability
THE NEED FOR ANTI VIRAL FABRIC
Textiles provide a large hosting surface area for bacteria and viruses,
benefiting their carryover.Many viruses and bacteria are pathogens
that can lead to severe sickness and mortality. Thousands of deaths
every year can result from transmission of pathogens. Viruses and
bacteria can remain active on textile surfaces from days to months.

THE SOLUTION
After careful research, D’Decor has adopted HeiQ ViroBlock - a
cutting edge and effective solution that renders fabric anti viral and
anti bacterial. D’Decor has entered into an exclusive partnership with
HeiQ - a leading European textile innovation company founded in
2005, that creates some of the most effective, durable and high-
performance textile technologies.
ViroGuard by D’Decor fabrics are treated with HeiQ Viroblock during
the final stage of the textile manufacturing process to render them
anti viral and anti bacterial.
HOW EFFECTIVE IS VIROGUARD
The ViroGuard by D’Decor fabrics treated with HeiQ Viroblock trap
and immediately kill viruses and bacteria on contact.This has been
tested effectively* against various key virus types:
Coronavirus
Influenza
Avian flu
Swine flu
Respiratory Syncytial Virus
Corporate Social Responsibility
D'Decor propagates a philosophy of 'Live Beautiful'. This philosophy
goes beyond just beautifying homes to a more holistic way of life
which includes greener environment, good education, proper
healthcare, and equality. D'Decor has initiated various endeavours to
address all these parameters.
SAFETY NET TO POOR THROUGH SUPPORT TO THE KARUNYA TRUST
Since 2016, D'Decor has been associated with Karunya Trust, a body
which aims at upliftment of poor through focus on education,
livelihood, health, environment issues, women empowerment and
governance.

Savli: Empowering the children of people living with HIV/AIDS

through holistic care. Since 2016, 800 children and their families
have benefitted through this program.
Gyansaathi: Empowering the rag picking children residing at the
Deonar dumping yard at Govandi, Mumbai through non formal
education, supplementary nutrition, formation of children support
groups, health care and community mobilization and training. The
program which started in 2011, has benefitted 600 children and their
families so far.
Bharari: A program aimed at community development through child
development. Approximtely 1600 children residing in 16 tribal
pockets of Ambernath taluka have benefitted from the program.
EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMMES FOR CHILDREN
Educational support is extended to the students of NIOS (National
Institute of Open Schooling), along with promotion of vocational
training course for 200 students.
WOMEN EMPOWERMENT THROUGH SWADES FOUNDATION
D'Decor provides its surplus fabric produced in the factories, to
women workers in villages, who then make bags from these fabrics
and sell them to earn their daily livelihood.

ADOPTION OF RENEWABLE ENERGY

One of the key initiatives towards our social responsibility is

minimising the carbon footprint. D’Decor operates five
manufacturing plants located at Tarapur, India, with an output
exceeding 120,000 meters a day. At any given point of time, the
supply chain is capable of delivering more than 200,000 SKUs. The
overall energy requirement to achieve this output is approximately
9.5 cr units annually. With an increased focus towards green energy,
D’Decor has invested in rooftop solar panels at all the manufacturing
units. The capacity of this is approximately 6.8 MW and it caters to
about 10% of the total energy requirement. This not only helps the
organization reduce the utility cost of operations but also goes a long
way in reducing the carbon footprint. The solar rooftop installation at
D’Decor was done in two phases spanning over 2 years, thus
enabling our entire rooftop's real-estate capable of harnessing solar
energy.
EFFLUENT WATER TREATMENT
Textile processing encompasses a number of complex activities
during the conversion of grey cloth into finished fabrics. These
processes include washing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing,
rinsing and involve the use of a diverse and varying mixture of
organic and inorganic chemicals including dyes. As a result, the
typical pollutant load of textile waste water is characterized by high
colour content, suspended solids, dissolved salts and organic
compounds.
D'Decor has set up a full-fledged 100% two stage Biological Effluent
Treatment Plant comprising of anaerobic and aerobic treatment. The
water output from this plant is then treated with UF+RO
(ultrafiltration and reverse osmosis) making a majority of water
ready for re-use. The plant treats 2855 cubic meter of water on a
daily basis. Additionally, we have installed Solar Sludge Drying Plant
to dry the biological sludge generated from the ETP.
D'Decor complies with global norms of ISO 14001:2015 (Environment
Management System), ISO 450001:2018 (OHSAS) and Detox To Zero
by Oeko-Tex.