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 WILLIAMS-SONOMA

SALAD fUCII'LS AND

GEORGEANNE BRENNAN

Gl Nl RA1 1 HI IDI!

CHUCK WILLIAMS

AIM IS

NOEL BARNHURST

SIMON & SCHUSTER • SOURCE

NEW YORK • LONDON • TORONTO • SYDNEY • SINGAPORE
 3

CONTENTS
Introduction

THE CLASSICS
10 Caesar Salad

1 Cobb Salad

14 Potato Salad

Salade Nicoise

18 Celery Root Remoulade

1 1 Insalata Caprese

22 Ambrosia

SPRING
26 Green Herb Salad witb Champagne Vinaigrette

29 Asparagus and Smoked Salmon with Tarragon Cream

30 Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Zucchini Ribbons

Chicken, Avocado, and Mango Salad

54 Baby Spinach with Ginger-Glazed Scallops

M Artichokes with Bread -and-Tomato Stuffing

Spring Lettuces with Broiled Goat Cheese

SUMMER
42 Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes

i
Tabbouleh

46 Tomato and Bread Salad with Deep-fried Chicken Bites

\'> Slender Green Beans in Pesto

50 Corn and Tomato Salsa on Crispy Corn Tortillas

53 Thai-Style Chilled Beef Salad

i
I Nectarine, Melon, and Blackberry Salad with Fresh Mint
 1 1

AUTUMN
Persimmon, Honey-Glazed Chicken, and Peppery Greens

61 Mushrooms and Fennel with Parmesan Crisps

Apples and Walnuts with Stilton Cheese

65 Warm Potato Salad with Balsamic Vinegar

(>(. Roasted Red Peppers with Wild Rice and Anchovies

Swiss Chard with Pancetta and Hard-boiled Lggs

Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts and Arugula

WINTER
74 Mixed Citrus with Hcd Onions and Escarole

77 Poached Red Trout on Watercress with Blood Orange Dressing

78 Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter Greens

8 Roasted Beets and Pecans with Curly Endive

82 Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and Arugula

8 5 Turkey and Celery Salad with Dried Cherries

86 Oranges and Carrots with Pistachios

PICNIC SALADS
90 Rigatoni Salad with Green Cauliflower, Capers, and Saffron

93 Tomatoes with Anchovies and Olives

94 Lentil Salad with Mozzarella and Prosciutto

97 Anchoiade with Radishes, Fennel, Celery, and Carrots

98 Rice Salad with Tuna and Capers

10 Couscous Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Bell Peppers

102 White Peaches with Almonds and Currants

105 SALAD BASICS

Hi Glossary

117 Index
 INTRODUCTION
The essence of a good salad is simplicity. Clean, bright flavors that,

when brought together, bring out the best in one another. Part of

the art of making a truly superb salad is choosing the freshest

ingredients — in particular, vegetables and fruits that have become

ripe in their natural season. Although it is easy nowadays to find

asparagus in autumn and tomatoes in midwinter, these foods will

still taste better in spring and summer. This is why the recipe

chapters in this book are arranged primarily by season, to help

you find the right salad for the moment. Included is a chapter of

classic salads that will never go out of fashion, and a selection of

portable picnic salads that can be expanded to feed a crowd.

Each recipe in this cookbook is kitchen-tested and highlights a

particular ingredient, term, or technique. A chapter of basics in

the back of the book offers an overview of salad making, with all

the information you'll need. It is my hope that the recipes in this

book will inspire you to get into the kitchen and start cooking!
 THE CLASSICS
Certain salads, by virtue of their distinctive combinations of

flavor and texture, have earned a place of honor in our collective

culinary memory Over the years, these classics have evolved or

given rise to innumerable variations. The recipes that follow

represent a return io the original forms of many of our favorite

salads, with just a slight adjustment if needed for today's palates.

CAI SAR SALAD

10

COBB SALAD
;
i

POTATO SAl AD

SALADE N1COISE
17

CELERY ROOT REMOULADE

18

INSALATA CAPRESE

AMBROSIA
 CAESAR SALAD
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spread the bread cubes on a 2 cups (4 oz/125 g) cubed

baking sheet and sprinkle them with the 3 tablespoons olive oil,
sourdough or other coarse
country bread (1-inch/
1

' teaspoon salt, and V-i teaspoon pepper. Place in the oven and
2.5-cm cubes)
toast, turning once or twice, until golden, about 15 minutes.
3 tablespoons plus Vz cup
Remove the cubes from the sheet, let cool, and rub one or two
(3 fl oz/80 ml) extra-virgin
sides of each cube with the unpeeled garlic. (The rough edges of
olive oil

the toast act as a grater.) Set aside.

Salt and freshly ground
In the bottom of a salad bowl, using a fork, crush the peeled garlic pepper

with Vi teaspoon salt to make a paste. Crush 4 anchovy fillets into 6 cloves garlic, 3 unpeeled

the paste. Whisk in the Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, and !/z tea- and 3 peeled

spoon pepper. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the remaining 4 anchovy fillets, plus
'A cup olive oil to make a thick dressing. extra for optional garnish

Add the lettuce leaves and three-fourths of the croutons to the 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
sauce
bowl with the dressing and mix gently but well. Break the egg into
PARMESAN CHEESE
the bowl and mix again. Top with the remaining croutons. Scatter 2 teaspoons red wine
True Parmesan comes from
vinegar
the Parmesan shavings over the salad and serve at once, garnished
the Emilia-Romagna region of

northern Italy and is referred with anchovy fillets, if desired. 2 hearts romaine (cos)

trademarked name, lettuce, separated

to by its

Note: This dish contains raw egg. If desired, omit the egg. For more into leaves
Parmigiano-Reggiano. For

freshness, request a wedge information, see page 114. 1 egg

of Parmesan that has just
MAKES 4 SERVINCS Parmesan cheese shavings
been sliced from a wheel.
for garnish (far left)
Rich and complex in flavor

and possessing a pleasant

granular texture, this savory

cheese is excellent shaved

over salads. For shavings,

draw a vegetable peeler

or small knife across a

block of cheese to create

thin sheets and curls.

,--',

m
 :

';!,
 COBB SALAD
3 peeled hard-boiled eggs Cut the hard-boiled eggs into '/2-inch (12-mm) dice. Set aside.

(far right)
In a frying pan over medium heat, fry the bacon until crisp, about
8 slices bacon
10 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. When cool, crumble
1 head romaine (cos) lettuce, and set aside.
leaves separated and torn
into bite-sized pieces Make a bed of lettuce on a platter or shallow bowl. Mix together
the parsley and minced chives. Arrange the eggs, bacon, mixed
2 tablespoons minced fresh
flat-leaf (Italian) parsley minced herbs, watercress, turkey, avocados, tomatoes, and the
% lb cheese in a neat pattern atop the bed of romaine, in rows or in
2 tablespoons minced fresh
chives, plus several longer a checkerboard pattern, covering the lettuce almost completely.

chive lengths
In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce,
2 cups (4 oz/125 g)
mustard, garlic, A teaspoon
l
salt, and Vi teaspoon pepper. Using a
chopped watercress
fork, mash in the remaining 1 oz cheese to make a paste. While
(tough stems removed)
whisking, slowly drizzle in the olive oil to form a thick dressing.
4 cupsd 1
/2 lb/750 g) diced
HARD-BOILED EGGS
cooked turkey or chicken Pour a little of the dressing over the salad and garnish with chive
it's easy to overcook hard-
(see Note)
lengths. Serve at once. Pass the remaining dressing at the table. boiled eggs, giving their yoks
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, an unsightly greenish tinge

and diced Note: For the cooked poultry in this recipe, use leftover rousted turkey and a dry texture. This gentie

or chicken. If you have none on hand, poach some chicken breasts. method ensures good results:
2 tomatoes, chopped
saucepan and add Put the eggs in a saucepan
Put 4 or 5 bone-in chicken breast halves in a large
1
A lb (125 g) plus 1 oz (30 g)
and add cold water to cover
lightly suited water to cover. Bring to u boil over high heat. Reduce
Roquefort cheese, crumbled them by 2 inches (5 cm).
the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat
Bring to a boil over medium
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) and lei stand for 30 minutes. Discard the skin and bones and cut the heat. When the water begins
red wine vinegar
meat into bite-sized pieces. to boil, remove from the neat,

1 teaspoon Worcestershire cover, and let the eggs stand

Variation bin: Traditionally, this salad is made with Roquefort in the water for 20 minutes
sauce
cheese, which gives a richness and lung to the dressing us well us to Rinse under cold run
V2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
the salad Some may prefer a milder blue cheese, however, such us water until cool, then peel.

1 clove garlic, crushed and Danish or Maytag.

then minced
MAKES 4-6 SERVINGS
Salt and ground pepper

Vs cup (3 fl oz/80 ml)

extra-virgin olive oil

I *
 POTATO SALAD
Cut the hard-boiled eggs into slices A inch
l
(6 mm) thick. Set aside. 5 peeled hard-boiled eggs
(page 13)
In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes, 2 teaspoons salt, and
2V2 lb (1.25 kg) small waxy
water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over medium-
potatoes such as Yukon
high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, uncovered, until
gold, Yellow Finn, or Red
the potatoes are tender and can be easily pierced with a fork, Rose

20-25 minutes. Drain and, when just cool enough to handle, peel
Salt and freshly ground
and cut into '/2-inch (12-mm) cubes. Place the still-warm potatoes pepper

in a large bowl.
V2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)
mayonnaise, preferably
In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, sour cream, pickle
homemade (page m)
juice, and mustard to taste. Spoon this over the potatoes and mix
V2 cup (4 oz/125 g)
gently but thoroughly. Add the onion, fresh dill, pickle, celery,
light sour cream
1 teaspoon salt, and Vi teaspoon pepper. Again, mix gently but
thoroughly. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add all but 5 of the 1 tablespoon sweet
pickle juice
egg slices, mixing them gently into the salad.
POTATO TYPES
1-2 tablespoons Dijon
The role of potatoes in a Transfer the salad to a serving bowl and garnish with the reserved mustard
dish determines the type of and a sprinkle of paprika. Cover and refrigerate for
egg slices at
3
potato that should be used.
A cup (4 oz/125 g) minced
least 1 hour or tip to 24 hours before serving.
red onion
Waxy potatoes, called for

here, hold their shape during To serve as an attractive first course, line small plates with lettuce 1
/2 cup (
3
/4 oz/20 g)

boiling or steaming and are leaves, then top with a mound of the salad. chopped fresh dill

used in dishes that call for

1
1
/4 CUP (1 /2 OZ/45 g)
potato slices or cubes. added potato salad, such
Variation Tip: Other ingredients can he to
minced sweet pickle
Starchy potatoes, like the
as dieed cooked shrimp, linked canned tuna, coarsely chopped
russet or baking potato,
1
/2 cup (2 /2
1
oz/75 g)
olives, or chopped or sheered pimientos. For a warm potato salad
break down when cooked, chopped celery
with vinegar, see page 65.
which is more desirable for
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
baked or mashed potatoes.
MAKES 4-6 s| RVINGS
Lettuce leaves for serving
(optional)

14
 SALADE NICOISE
4 peeled hard-boiled eggs Quarter the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise. Set aside.
(page 13)
Put the potatoes and % teaspoon salt in a large saucepan and acid
1 lb (500 g) small waxy
water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over medium-
potatoes such as Yukon
gold, Yellow Finn, or Red high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, uncovered, until

Rose the potatoes are tender and can be pierced easily with a fork,

20-25 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold running water, and, when
Salt and freshly ground
pepper just cool enough to handle, peel and cut into slices about A inch l

(6 mm) thick. Set aside.

1 lb (500 g) slender green
beans such as haricots
Arrange the beans in a steamer basket and place over boiling
verts or baby Blue Lakes,
water. Cover and steam just until tender, about 3 minutes. Lift out
trimmed
the basket and place under cold running water to stop the cooking.
2 cups (1V2 oz/45 g) mixed
Drain and set aside.
young salad greens

16 anchovy fillets
Divide the salad greens among individual plates, making a bed on
each. Divide the ingredients evenly, arranging the eggs, potatoes, NlCOISt TRADITION
5 tomatoes, thinly sliced
beans, anchovy fillets, tomatoes, bell pepper, and olives on each This classic salad of Nice, in

1 green bell pepper southern France, was originally

plate, with the tuna in the center.
(capsicum), seeded and made with canned, not fresh,
cut lengthwise into In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, V± teaspoon tuna, although of late it has
narrow strips
salt, and V2 teaspoon pepper. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the become fashionable (especially

cup (2V2 oz/75 restaurants the United

V2 g) olive oil to make a thick dressing. Pour the dressing over the salads in in

oil-cured black olives States) to use grilled fresh tuna

and serve at once.
instead. Many traditionalists
1 can (8 oz/250 g) olive
claim that not only must the
oil-packed tuna, drained Variation Tip: Additional ingredients, such as peeled and slieed
tuna be canned, but also the
cucumber, shredded carrots, and diced cooked beets, are sometimes
Vt cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) vegetables must be raw, never
red wine vinegar included in a Nicoise salad as well.
cooked. When ordering the

salad in a restaurant today,

2 tablespoons minced MAKES (» SERVINGS
shallot
however, you will find some
cooked vegetables and some
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
version.
raw, as in this

extra-virgin olive oil

17
 CELERY ROOT REMOULADE
In a saucepan, combine the celery root, 1 teaspoon salt, lemon 1 large or 2 medium celery

juice, and water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil roots (celeriacs), peeled

and cut into rounds Vi inch

over medium-high heat and cook for 3-4 minutes. The celery root
(6 mm) thick (far left)
should be just tender to the bite, not mushy. Drain well and, using
Salt
a sharp knife, slice into thinner rounds, then cut into very thin

strips. Alternatively, stack the slices and use a mandoline to shred 2 tablespoons fresh
lemon juice
them. Place in a bowl.

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml)

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and 2 tablespoons
mayonnaise, preferably
of the mustard. Taste the mixture. It should be well seasoned with homemade (page 111)
the mustard but still taste of both ingredients. Add more mustard
2-3 tablespoons Dijon
as desired. Pour the dressing over the celery root and mix well.
mustard
Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours before
serving. Serve mounded on a salad plate or in a bowl.

PREPARING Note: In traditional French bistros, celery root remoulade is served as

CELERY ROOT part of an assortment of small, individual vegetable salads, such as

Also called celeriac, celery diced beets, cubed potatoes, grated carrots, or sliced tomatoes, all
root has a much stronger, dressed with vinaigrette. The most traditional version of the recipe
more pungent flavor than its
calls for raw celery root sliced paper-thin and then julienned. The
better-known relative, head
vegetable is briefly cooked in this version to make it more tender.
celery. It has a tough, dark

brown skin covered with fine, Serving Tip: To serve as an elegant first course, make a bed of baby
hairlike roots and larger, spinach, watercress, or red-leaf lettuce on individual salad plates
fleshy roots at the base. To and spoon the salad onto the center.
remove the skin, use a sharp

knife, peeling it much as you MAKI S 4 M RVINGS

would the skin of an apple.

Also like an apple, the flesh

of celery root discolors upon

exposure to air. Once peeled,

it should be immersed in

water to which a little lemon

juice or vinegar has been

added, unless it is to be

used immediately.

18
 INSALATA CAPRESE
8 ripe tomatoes, sliced On a platter, alternate slices of tomato and mozzarella. Garnish
generously with basil leaves, tucking some underneath the
1 lb (500 g) fresh
mozzarella cheese, tomatoes. Drizzle the olive oil over all, and then sprinkle with
thinly sliced V2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Serve at once.

V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh

basil leaves
Note: Some recipes for insalata caprese add other herbs and eeen
copers, hut the purest version relies on just jour perfect ingredients:
1
/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, bright green basil, and
extra-virgin olive oil

fruity olive oil. Use only the very ripest tomatoes, as their juices mix
Salt, preferably sea salt,
with the olive oil to make the dressing. It is important that the oil he
and freshly ground pepper
of the highest quality, because the difference between an average
olive oil and a superior one will be evident here.

Serving Tip: This salad may also he arranged as an antipasio, or

appetizer. Using small plum (Roma) tomatoes, top each tomato slice

with a slice offresh mozzarella and a basil leaf.

FRESH MOZZARELI A
MAKES 4 -6 SERVINGS This classic salad from the

island of Capri, just off Italy's

southern coast near Naples,

is made with fresh mozzarella,

one of the country's best-

known cheeses. Soft and

spongy textured, it is sold

packed in liquid at well-

stocked supermarkets,

cheese stores, and Italian

groceries. Fresh mozzarella

was traditionally made from

the milk of the water buffalo,

but cow's milk is used else-

where and increasingly in

Italy, as well.

21
 AMBROSIA
Cut the pineapple slices into '/--inch (12-mm) cubes, capturing as V2 pineapple, peeled, sliced

much of the juice as possible. Place the cubes and juice in a bowl. crosswise, and cored
(far left)

Cut a slice off the top and bottom of 1 orange, then stand it
5 navel oranges
upright. Following the contour of the fruit, slice off the peel and
3 bananas, peeled and cut
white pith in thick strips. Holding the fruit over a bowl, carefully
into slices a generous
cut along each side of the membranes between the sections, letting 1
A inch (6 mm) thick
each freed section and any juices drop into the bowl. Cut each
1 tablespoon fresh
section in half crosswise, again capturing as much of the juice as
lemon juice
possible and returning them to the bowl. Repeat with the remaining
2 teaspoons Cointreau
4 oranges.
or other orange-flavored

liqueur (optional)
Add the banana slices to the bowl, and sprinkle the lemon juice

and the Cointreau, if using, over the fruit. Scatter the coconut and 1
/2 cup (2 oz/60 g)

grapes over the top and mix gently but thoroughly. Cover and sweetened shredded
dried coconut
refrigerate lor at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours before serving.
PRI PARING I'INI AITU
1 cup (6 oz/185 g) seedless
To peel and con ippie, Transfer to a serving bowl or individual bowls and serve chilled. grapes, green, red, or a
iff the crown of
mixture
leaves and the bottom end. Variation lip: Sometimes miniature marshmallows are added to

apple straight up ambrosia, as are maraschino cherries. you add marshmallows,

If
pare off the
gently mix them into the salad just before serving. Ifyou add cherries,
skin, cutting downward just
use them as a last-minute topping or garnish, as they will stain the
below the surface in long,
other fruit and the coconut if added sooner.
vertical strips and leaving the

vn eyes 01
MAM !
R\ INGS
fruit Pi neapple on

le Aligning the knife's

blade with th

of eyes, cut shallow furrows,

following a spiral pati

remove all the eyes. (

pineapple crosswist

round slices V2 inch (12 mm)

thick and remove the fibrous
!•
nife or

small cookie cutter.

11
Mi
 SPRING
Spring is the season of tender new growth after winter's sleep.

Leaves are dainty and delicate, pods sweet and succulent. During

these months, light salads that utilize the sprightly flavors of

fresh seasonal ingredients are tempting and easy to make.

Dressings should be equally restrained, incorporating herbs,

citrus, and ginger, and allowing the tastes of the season to shine.

GREEN HERB SALAD

WITH CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE
2(i

ASPARAGUS AND SMOKED SALMON

WITH TARRAGON CREAM
29

GREEN BEANS. PEAS.

FAVAS.
AND ZUCCHINI RIBBONS
10

CHICKEN. AVOCADO. AND MANGO SALAD

BABY SPINACH WITH

GINGER-GLAZED SCALLOPS
M

ARTICHOKES WITH
READ-AND-TOMATO STUFFING

SPRING LETTUCES WITH

BROILED GOAT CHEESE
 GREEN HERB SALAD
WITH CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE
In the bottom of a salad bowl, combine the olive oil and the shallot. 1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
extra-virgin olive oil
Add the vinegar, A teaspoon
l
salt, and A teaspoon pepper and mix
l

well with a fork. Top with the lettuce, parsley, cilantro, and chervil. 1 tablespoon minced
shallot
When ready to serve, toss well. Mound the salad in individual
2 tablespoons Champagne
serving bowls or on plates.
vinegar

Make-, \head Tip: Before tossing, tlie dressing and salad can stand for Salt and freshly ground

up to 30 minuses. pepper

1 large head butter

Variation Tip: To enrich the dressing, add a little Maytag, Stilton,
(Boston) lettuce, leaves
Gorgonzola, or other blue-veined cheese along with the vinegar,
separated and torn into
coarsely mashing it with a fork. Serve the salad accompanied with a bite-sized pieces

sliver of the cheese and some walnuts after a main course.

1 cup (1 oz/30 g) fresh

flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

MAkl S I si RVINGS
leaves

HERB SALADS
V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh
in many Mediterranean
cilantro (fresh coriander)
countries, fresh herbs are leaves
used as primary salad
V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh
ingredients. Herbs are
chervil sprigs
appreciated for the complex

flavor and refreshing taste

they bring to a salad. Parsley,

cilantro (fresh coriander),

chervil, arugula (rocket), and

mint are commonly used

this way. Fresh oregano and

thyme might be used in

smaller quantities. You may

use only a single herb or a

mixture. Do not use woody-

stemmed herbs such as

rosemary or sage.

26
"':.,
 . sir

K; i>
,:
«ft*>

*& j '' '.-

V . m
« I

4 v
v v%^
-

^
* V
 ASPARAGUS AND SMOKED SALMON
WITH TARRAGON CREAM
FOR THE TARRAGON CREAM: To make the tarragon cream, put the cream in a small bowl, then

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) whisk in the cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, % teaspoon
heavy (double) cream salt, Vi teaspoon pepper, and the tarragon. Set aside. The cream
will curdle and thicken within 4-5 minutes.
2 tablespoons cider

vinegar
Arrange the asparagus in a steamer basket and place over boiling
1 teaspoon fresh water. Cover and steam until just tender to the bite, 3-4 minutes.
lemon juice
Transfer the asparagus to a colander and immediately place
Salt and freshly ground under cold running water to stop the cooking and to preserve the
pepper
bright green color. Slice the spears on the diagonal about V-> inch

2 tablespoons minced (12 mm) thick, leaving some whole if desired. Set aside.
fresh tarragon
Arrange the salmon on a platter or individual plates. Drizzle evenly

with the 1 Vs teaspoons lemon juice. Top with the asparagus, garnish
1V2 lb (750 g) asparagus,

trimmed (far right) with the tarragon sprigs, and serve with the tarragon cream.

Vs lb(5oz/155g)smoked TRIMMING ASPARAGUS

Make-Ahead Tip: The tarragon cream and asparagus may be chilled
salmon, thinly sliced
To ensure tin ivor and
before serving.
1V2 teaspoons fresh texture for bend

lemon juice Variation Tips: The tarragon cream is also excellent spooned over the cut end of each spear

room-temperature green beans or sliced tomatoes. Or, other delicate until i

Fresh tarragon sprigs

will snap precisely where
for garnish
green herbs such as chervil, dill, or parsley can be substituted for the
the fibrous inedible portion .

begins. To give all the spears

a consi trim
MAKES 4 SI RVINGS h 1 ;th,

them with ter you

have snapped ol

nick or

asm,. -el them to

about 1 in.

of the tips.

2')
 FAVAS, GREEN BEANS, PEAS,
AND ZUCCHINI RIBBONS
Bring a large saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil over Salt and freshly ground

medium-high heat and add '/L> teaspoon salt and the fava beans. pepper

Boil until just tender, about 6 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain 2 lb (1 kg) fava (broad)

and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Drain again, then beans, shelled

skin each fava bean (left). Set aside. 1 lb (500 g) English peas,
shelled
Meanwhile, bring a smaller saucepan three-fourths full of water
V2 lb (250 g) slender green
to a boil over medium-high heat and add A teaspoon l
salt and the
beans such as haricots
peas. Boil until just tender, 3-5 minutes. As with the favas, do not
verts or baby Blue Lakes,
overcook. Drain and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. trimmed
Drain again and set aside.
4 zucchini (courgettes),
about 1 lb (500 g) total
Arrange the green beans in a steamer basket and place over
weight
boiling water. Cover and steam just until tender, about 3 minutes.
2 cloves garlic
Lift out the basket and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking.

Drain and set aside. Vs cup (3 fl oz/80 ml)

FRF PARING FAVA BEANS
extra-virgin olive oil
Before cooking, fresh fava Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zucchini. Then, still using the
beans must first be shelled, or 3 tablespoons fresh
vegetable peeler, cut the flesh of the zucchini into long, thin
removed from their pods.
lemon juice
fettuccine-like ribbons. Set aside.
Unless they have been picked 1 1
/3 cup ( /2 oz/15 g)
while still quite young and In a bowl, combine the garlic and Vi teaspoon salt. Using a fork, julienned fresh basil
small, the skin that covers leaves
crush them into a paste. Still using the fork, mix in the olive oil,
each shelled bean is thick and
then the lemon juice and '/.• teaspoon pepper. Pour this mixture 15 anchovy fillets
tough, and the beans must be
into a large bowl and add the favas, peas, green beans, zucchini 1
skinned before eating. To /2 cup (2 oz/60 g)
ribbons, and basil. Mix until well coated, cover, and refrigerate for
Parmesan cheese
remove the skins, drop the

shelled beans into boiling at least 1 Vi hours or up to 5 hours. shavings

water, drain, and let cool.

To serve, gently mix all but 4 or 5 of the anchovy fillets into the
Using a small knife, pierce the
vegetables. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl or a platter and
skin of each bean opposite

the end where It was top with the remaining anchovies. Scatter the Parmesan shavings

attached to the pod and over all. Serve at once.

squeeze lightly. The bean
will pop free of its skin. MAKI S 4 SI RVINGS

30
 CHICKEN, AVOCADO, AND MANGO SALAD
3 bone-in chicken breast Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Rub the chicken breasts with
halves, about 2 lb (1 kg)
Vi teaspoon salt and Vi teaspoon pepper and place, skin side up,
total weight
on a baking sheet. Roast until the skin is crisp and the meat is

Salt and freshly ground cooked through but still moist, 40-50 minutes. Remove from the
pepper
oven and let stand until cool enough to handle, then remove the

5 tablespoons (3 fl oz/ skin and discard. Cut the chicken meat from the bones and into
80 ml) fresh lime juice
bite-sized pieces, then set aside.

1 tablespoon peeled and

In the bottom of a large bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the
minced fresh ginger
lime juice, the ginger, A teaspoon l
salt, the oil, and l tablespoon
2 teaspoons grapeseed
of the minced cilantro. Add the l cup whole cilantro leaves and
or other light oil
the lettuce and mix well with the dressing.
3 tablespoons minced
fresh cilantro (fresh corian- Arrange the dressed greens on a platter and evenly distribute the
der), plus 1 cup (1 oz/30 g) mango slices over the top. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the lime
whole leaves
juice. Arrange the chicken over the top, and then the avocado
CHOOSING LIMES
4-5 rounded cups (about slices. Drizzle the avocado with the remaining 2 tablespoons lime
The lime is a close cc
6 oz/185 g) torn lettuce
juice. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons minced cilantro and
the lemon, but with a sweeter
leaves such as red leaf,
the red onion over the top. Serve immediately. taste that especially heightens
green leaf, or oak leaf, or a

mixture (bite-sized pieces) the flavor of other fruits,

Make-Ahead Tip: The chicken can he cooked, cooled, and en! into including melons, nectarines,
3 mangoes, peeled
pieces up to I day in advance of serving. ( over and refrigerate, then peaches, and plums, as well
and sliced
bring to room temperature before combining with the other salad as the mango and avocado
2 avocados, pitted, peeled,
ingredients. used here. The two most
and sliced well-known lime vanetie
Variation Tip: To make a breakfast version of this salad, use sliced the common green Persian
2 tablespoons minced
red onion, plus several
cantaloupe in place of the chicken, and serve the salad accompanied lime and the slightly smaller,

thin slices with toast spread with tropical fruit jams. tart Key lime, also called the

Mexican lime Either will

MAKI S -4 OR S s| RVINGS work for this recipe. Limes

are ripe when they give

slightly to pressure and when

the rind releases a sharp,

aromatic scent if scraped

with a fingernail.

33
 BABY SPINACH WITH
GINGER-GLAZED SCALLOPS
In a small nonaluminum saucepan, combine the minced shallot 1 tablespoon minced

Add shallot
and the grapefruit juice and let stand for about 10 minutes.

the lime and lemon juices and place the pan over medium-high 1
/2cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)

heat. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid has reduced slightly fresh grapefruit juice

to about '/.> cup (4 fl oz/125 ml), 1-2 minutes. Remove from the 1V2 tablespoons fresh

heat and stir in V/i teaspoons of the oil and Vt teaspoon salt. Set lime juice

the dressing aside. 1 V2 teaspoons fresh

lemon juice
In a small bowl or cup, stir together the soy sauce, ginger, honey,
4 teaspoons grapeseed,
and mustard to make a glaze and set aside.
canola, or other light oil

Just before beginning to cook the scallops, put the spinach in a

Salt
bowl and pour the dressing over it. Toss well. Divide the dressed
2V2 tablespoons soy sauce
spinach among individual salad plates.

IV2 tablespoons peeled

In a frying pan large enough to hold all the scallops in a single
and grated fresh ginger
USING FRESH GINGER layer without crowding, warm the remaining 2Vi teaspoons oil (far left)

Look for fresh ginger that over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the scallops and sear,
1V2 teaspoons honey
feels heavy the hand and Add
in
turning once, until golden, about 30 seconds on each side.
shows no wrinkling or other V2 teaspoon Dijon
the soy sauce mixture, reduce the heat to low, and turn the scallops
signs of age. To prepare it,
mustard
in the sauce for about 45 seconds. They will be glazed a deep
use a vegetable peeler or 3
/4 lb (375 g) baby spinach
paring knife to remove the
mahogany brown.
leaves
thin beige skin. Once peeled,
Divide the scallops among the plates, placing them atop the
8 sea scallops, about
it is often grated to capture
spinach. Drizzle with any sauce remaining in the pan. Serve V2 lb (250 g) total weight
its flavor without its fibrous
immediately
texture. Porcelain ginger

graters, specially designed to

Serving Tip: Grapefruit and scallops are excellent partners. Play up
let you use the aromatic juice

and flesh without the tough this affinity by adding a few segments of carefully peeled grapefruit

fibers, are sold in Asian to each plate. Garnish with grapefruit zest or lime slices.

markets and specialty cook-

ware stores. Or, use the small

MAKI S -I s| RVINGS

rasps on a metal grater.

34
41
 ARTICHOKES WITH
BREAD-AND-TOMATO STUFFING
4 medium to large Place the artichokes on a steamer rack over boiling water, cover,
artichokes, trimmed and steam until a fork easily pierces the base of an artichoke,
(far right)
30-40 minutes. Remove from the pan and set tipside down to

4 cups (8 oz/250 g) torn drain and cool.

day-old coarse country
bread Meanwhile, put the bread in a bowl and add half of the vinegar
and half of the water. Let soak, turning occasionally, until the
About V2 cup (4 fl oz/
125 ml) red wine vinegar, bread absorbs the liquid to the extent that it crumbles easily

or to taste between your fingertips. The drier and coarser the bread, the

About 1
/4 cup (2 fl oz/ more liquid you will need, so add as much of the remaining

60 ml) water vinegar and water as necessary. When enough liquid has been

Vi cup oz/60 ml)

absorbed, crumble the bread into soft crumbs. Add the A cup l

(2 fl

olive oil, or to taste olive oil, tomatoes, minced parsley, capers, 1 teaspoon salt, and
V2 teaspoon pepper and mix well. The stuffing should be quite
4 tomatoes, peeled and
seeded (page 115), then moist. If necessary add a little more oil, vinegar, or other seasonings

finely chopped to your taste. TRIMMING

ARTICHOKES
1
1 cup (1 /2 oz/45 g) minced
To prepare each artichoke for stuffing, gently spread the inner As you trim artichoke
fresh flat-leaf (Italian)
leaves apart. Using a metal spoon, scoop out the small, pale inner acidulated water to keep
parsley, plus sprigs for
leaves and the hairy choke to create a cavity. Fill the cavity with their cut surfaces from turning
garnish
gray upon exposure to air
some of the stuffing, mounding it slightly. Now, gently separate
V2 cup (4 oz/125 g) capers,
Add the juice of 1 lemon to a
rinsed and chopped the outer leaves and, using a teaspoon and your fingertips, tuck in
large bowl of water. Snap off
a little stuffing at the base of each row of leaves. Set the artichoke
Salt and freshly ground any tough outer leaves from

pepper
on a platter and repeat with the remaining artichokes. each artichoke and trim the

stem even with the bas>

Cover the platter with plastic wrap and refrigerate the artichokes
off the top third of the It

for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours before serving. Transfer to

with a serrated knife, and
individual plates and serve chilled, garnished with parsley sprigs. trim away any remaining
thorns with kitchen s<
MAKES 4 M RVINGS
As you finish trimming each

artichoke, drop it into the

bowl of acidulated water

to slow its discoloration.

37
 SPRING LETTUCES WITH
BROILED GOAT CHEESE
Preheat the broiler (grill). Line a broiler pan with aluminum foil. 5 oz (155 g) fresh goat

cheese
Divide the cheese into 4 equal portions and shape each portion
1
1 /2 tablespoons red wine
into a patty a scant V> inch (12 mm) thick. Place the patties on the
vinegar
foil-lined pan and set aside.
Salt and freshly ground
In a salad bowl, whisk together the vinegar, A teaspoon l
salt, and pepper

Vi teaspoon pepper. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the olive oil

3 tablespoons extra-virgin
to make a thick dressing. Add the greens and toss to coat well. olive oil

Divide among individual plates and set aside.

8-10 oz (250-315 g) mixed
young salad greens
Broil (grill) the goat cheese patties about 8 inches (20 cm) from

the heat source until the cheese is just heated through and has
softened along the bottom edge, about 4 minutes.

^ Remove the pan from the broiler and place a patty atop each
salad. Give a final sprinkling of pepper and serve immediately.
GOAT CHEESE STYLES
Goat cheese, a longtime
Note: Warm goat cheese salads are a staple in France, where they are
specialty of French cheese
often served atop a thin slice of toasted baguette, accompanied with
makers, is sold in a range
a few more toasts. In another version, the dressed salad leaves are
of styles, from only a few
lopped with a poached egg and the warm goal cheese and the toasts
clays old and quite soft to

months old and very dry. As are served alongside.

the cheese ages, its flavor

MAKES 4 si R\
becomes more pungent
and pronounced. Soft fresh

goat cheeses are sold in

tommes— small to medium

rounds— or shaped into

pyramids, balls, or logs. They

may be seasoned with herbs,

pepper, or nuts, or they may

be rolled in ashes. Hard-aged

goat cheese usually comes

in the form of a tomme.

38
 SUMMER
Summertime salads are assembled from a bounty of colorful

vegetables and fruits whose rich flavors have intensified under

the steady heat of the sun. Requiring little cooking, hot-weather

salads can be as simple as perfectly ripe vegetables, sliced and

dressed with a fruity olive oil and a splash of sweet balsamic

vinegar, with a few olives or capers providing a tart counterpoint.

GREEK SALAD
WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
!.'

TABBOULEH

TOMATO AND BREAD SALAD

VVI TH DEEP-FRIED CHICKEN BITES
40

SLENDER GREEN BEANS IN PESTO

1

'
I

CORN AND TOMATO SALSA ON

CRISPY CORN TORTILLAS
id

THAI-STYLE GRILLED BEEF SALAD

NECTARINE. MELON, AND BLACKBERRY

SALAD vVITH FRESH MINT
 GREEK SALAD
WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
Seed the bell peppers and cut them into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks. 2 red bell peppers

Stem the cherry tomatoes and halve one-half of them, leaving the (capsicums)

others whole. Peel and thickly slice the cucumbers, and thinly 1 green bell pepper

slice the red onions. Cut the feta into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes. (capsicum)

Crush and mince the garlic clove. 2 CUPS (12 OZ/375g)

cherry tomatoes
In a large bowl, combine the bell peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers,
2 cucumbers
onions, feta cheese, olives, anchovies (if using), and capers and
toss together. 2 red onions

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, garlic, dill, oregano, V2 lb (250 g) feta cheese

V2 teaspoon salt, and Vz teaspoon pepper. While whisking, slowly 1 clove garlic

drizzle in the olive oil to make a thick dressing. Pour the dressing
Acup
3
(4 0Z/125 g)
over the salad, toss, and serve. Kalamata olives

6 anchovy fillets (optional)

Variation Tips: For a more formal presentation, arrange the bell
CHOOSING OLIVE OIL peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, feta cheese, olives, and 2 tablespoons capers,
The Mediterranean countries rinsed
anchovies (if using) on a platter. Sprinkle the capers over all the
are all olive-oil producers, and
ingredients and pour the dressing over the top. Or, try sliced large 'A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
each country, even each region
tomatoes instead of cherry tomatoes. Line the platter with lettuce red wine vinegar
within a country, has its own
leaves or young spinach leaves to make a bed for the other
2 tablespoons minced
style of oil. Oils from Greece tend
ingredients. fresh dill
to be rich, yet mellow. Tuscan

oils are distinctly peppery, while

MAKI 8 M KVIN( IS
1 teaspoon dried oregano
S
Sicilian oils are "big" and earthy.

Olive oils from the south coast

Salt and freshly ground
pepper
of France are buttery. Whenever

possible, choose oils that match V3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) fruity

the style of a dish, with lighter, extra-virgin olive oil

milder oils for delicate salads,

vegetables, or fish. More robust

olive oils pair well with sturdier

vegetables, anchovies, garlic,

dark greens, and red meats.

42
 TABBOULEH
2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) In a saucepan over high heat, combine the water, V-> teaspoon salt,

water and 4 teaspoons of the olive oil and bring to a boil. Put the bulgur

Salt and freshly ground in a heatproof bowl and pour the boiling mixture over it. Let

pepper stand, uncovered, until tender, about 3 hour.

8 teaspoons extra-virgin
In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 4 teaspoons olive
olive oil
oil, the lemon juice, V2 teaspoon salt, and V2 teaspoon pepper. Add
2
l /3 cupsClOoz/315 g)
the bulgur and mix well to coat thoroughly. Now add the mint,
bulgur
parsley, tomatoes, cucumber, and onion and mix well again.
1
/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
fresh lemon juice Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours to let the flavors blend. Serve

chilled.
1
1 cup (1 /2 oz/45 g)

chopped fresh mint

Serving Tip: lor a festive presentation, fill scooped-out tomato
1
1 cup (1 /2 oz/45 g) halves with the tabbouleh and place them on lettuce leaves. Garnish
chopped fresh flat-leaf
with oil-cured hlack olives.
(Italian) parsley
GRAIN SALADS
2 tomatoes, seeded MAKES b 8 SI R\ INGS Salads, such as this traditional

and diced Lebanese one featuring bulgur,

may be based on a wide

1 cucumber, peeled,
variety of grains, including
seeded, and minced
(above, clockwise from left)

Vi cup (1 oz/30 g) barley, bulgur, or millet. Once

chopped red onion
cooked and cooled, their mild

flavor and firm texture

them good vehicles for other

flavors, such as dressings

made with citrus juices,

vinegars, soy sauce, and olive,

nut, or seed oils. Virtually any

vegetable or fruit may be

used in grain salads, and

meat or fish can be added,

too. Light yet filling, these

salads are the perfect supper

for a hot summer night.

45
 TOMATO AND BREAD SALAD
WITH DEEP-FRIED CHICKEN BITES
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Spread the bread cubes on a 3 cups (6 oz/185 g) dried

baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Bake, bread cubes (far left)

turning once, until lightly golden, about 15 minutes. Remove 5 tablespoons (3 fl oz/

from the pan, let cool, and rub with the 2 unpeeled garlic cloves. 80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Set aside. 3 cloves garlic, 2 unpeeled

and 1 crushed and minced
In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, minced garlic, the remaining
6 large, ripe tomatoes,
3 tablespoons olive oil, vinegar, V± teaspoon salt, and V2 teaspoon
coarsely chopped
pepper. Mix well.
3 tablespoons red wine
To prepare the chicken bites, spread the bread crumbs on waxed vinegar

paper or a plate. Roll the chicken pieces, a few at a time, in the

Salt and freshly ground
bread crumbs to coat evenly, then set aside. pepper

Pour vegetable oil into a deep frying pan to a depth of 2 inches

FOR THE CHICKEN BITES:

(5 cm) and heat it until it registers 375°F (190°C) on a deep-frying

1 cup (4 oz/125 g) dried
DRIED BREAD CUBES thermometer. When the oil is hot, add the chicken pieces and fry,
bread crumbs (far left)

To make dried bread cubes, turning them as needed, until golden and opaque throughout,
3 skinless, boneless
cut leftover coarse bread or Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper
about 4 minutes total.
chicken breast halves, cut
baguette into 1-inch (2.5-cm)
towels to drain briefly. into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
cubes before it dries out (if it

iMily dried, it will break Add the hot chicken bites, bread cubes, and basil to the tomatoes Vegetable oil for

into irregular pieces when you deep-frying

and mix to distribute all the ingredients evenly. Serve immediately.
try to cut it.) Let the cubes sit

out for another day or two To MAKI S 4 ( )R S M RVINGS V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh

make dried bread crumbs, let basil leaves, coarsely

any bread a few days past its chopped

peak of freshness dry out in a

200 F (95 C) oven for about

1 hour. Break the bread into

bite-sized pieces and then

process the pieces in a

blender or food processor

into fine crumbs.

46
 SLENDERGREEN BEANS IN PESTO

FOR THE PESTO: To make the pesto, in a blender or mini food processor, combine

3 cloves garlic the garlic, basil, cheese, pine nuts, and about .'5
tablespoons of the

olive oil. Puree to make a paste. With the motor running, pour in
2 cups (2 oz/60 g) fresh
the remaining olive oil in a slow, steady stream, adding only
basil leaves, coarsely

chopped enough to form a thick paste. At the last minute, add 1 teaspoon

3
salt. (If desired, the pesto can be made in the traditional way.
A cup (3 oz/90 g) grated
Parmesan cheese using a mortar and pestle, in which case you must first crush

together the garlic and salt and then add the basil, cheese, and
1
A cup (1 /2
1
oz/45 g) pine
nuts or blanched almonds, nuts, grinding them together with the pestle. Finally, slowly pour
toasted (page 109), plus the oil into the mixture as you work with the pestle.) Set the

extra for garnish

pesto aside.

V2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)

Place the beans on a steamer rack over boiling water, cover the
extra-virgin olive oil

steamer, and steam until the beans are just tender, 3-4 minutes.
Salt
Rinse immediately under cold running water to stop the cooking,

then drain and pat dry. PESTO FORVEGETABlIs

1
1
A lb (625 g) slender
Genoese pesto is a classic
green beans such as Arrange the beans on a serving dish and spoon as much pesto as
uncooked sauce made with
haricots verts or baby
desired over them. Serve at room temperature, garnished with the fresh basil, nuts, garlic, olive
Blue Lakes, trimmed
remaining nuts. Any leftover pesto may be stored in the refrigerator. oil, and Parmesan cheese.

Cover the pesto with a film of olive oil, wrap the container tightly, Many cooks think of pesto

only with pasta, but in Italy

and store for up to 3 days.
(and Provence, where it is

known as pistou) the sauce

Serving Tip: Serve these beans as par) of an antipasto spread, along
is used on vegetables as
with black olives, olive oil-dressed boiled potatoes, and roasted and
well. Try it spooned over
peeled red bell peppers (capsicums) (page 113). Accompany with a
potatoes, beets, carrots, or
basket oj bread sticks.
cauliflower. Pine nuts are

typically used in the sauce

MAKI S 4 M RVINGS
as a thickener, but some-
times they are replaced by

almonds, walnuts, or even

bread crumbs, and each

choice gives this classic

recipe a slightly different

and wonderful flavor

49
 CORN AND TOMATO SALSA ON
CRISPY CORN TORTILLAS
Cut the kernels off each ear of corn (left). In a large bowl, mix the 3 ears of white corn, husks

kernels with the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, basil, chile, lime juice, and silk removed

1 teaspoon salt, and Vi teaspoon pepper. Mix well. 5 tomatoes, finely chopped

Pour corn oil into a frying pan to a depth of V/-> inches (4 cm) and Va cup (2 oz/60 g) minced
red onion
heat until it registers 375°F ( 190°C) on a deep-frying thermometer.

Slip 1 tortilla into the hot oil and fry, turning once, until crisp, 1
/3 CUP (V2 0Z/15 g)

minced fresh cilantro

about IV2 minutes on each side. Using tongs, transfer the tortilla
(fresh coriander)
to paper towels to drain and cool. Repeat with 5 more tortillas,

letting the oil return to 375°F (190°C) before frying each tortilla. 3 tablespoons minced
fresh basil

Cut the remaining 3 tortillas into strips a generous V2 inch (12 mm)
2 tablespoons minced
wide. Add the strips to the hot oil, in batches, and fry, turning Anaheim or other medium-
once or twice, until crisp, about 3 minutes total. Transfer to paper hot chile

towels to drain and cool. Sprinkle the strips evenly with salt.
Juice of 3 limes

CUTTING CORN To serve, place the whole fried tortillas on individual plates and Salt and freshly ground
OFF THE COB heap the corn salsa on them evenly. Top each serving with a few pepper
Holding an ear of corn by
slices of avocado, a dollop of sour cream, a handful of the tortilla Corn oil for deep-frying
its pointed end, stand it

strips, and a sprinkling of chile powder if desired. Serve at once.

upright and slightly angled, 9 corn tortillas

resting its stem end in the

Variation Tips: This dish can he made into an appetizer by cutting 1 avocado, pitted, peeled,
bottom of a wide bowl. Using
all 9 corn tortillas into quarters, to produce 36 triangles, and frying and sliced
a sharp knife, cut down the
them as directed for the whole tortillas. Arrange them on a tray, V2 cup (4 oz/125 g)
length of the cob, taking off

3 or 4 rows of kernels at a
spoon an equal amount of the com salsa onto each triangle, and top sour cream

time and rotating the ear each with a small piece of avocado and a dab of sour cream. Or, for Chile powder for sprinkling

slightly with each cut Cut as a light main course to serve 3 people, prepare as directed in the main (optional)

close to the cob as possible. recipe and serve 2 salsa-topped tortillas to each diner.
Continue until all the kernels

have been removed. MAKES 6 SERVINGS

50
 THAI-STYLE GRILLED BEEF SALAD
2 cloves garlic, minced Prepare a fire in a grill, or preheat the broiler (grill). In a small

bowl, mix together the garlic, chiles, lime juice, water, soy sauce,
2 Thai chiles or 1 serrano
chile, minced 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil, and the brown sugar. Set aside.

1
/3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, bean sprouts, carrot, basil,
fresh lime juice
minced mint, and cilantro and toss together. Spread the mixture

1 tablespoon water on a platter.

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Rub the meat on both sides with the remaining l tablespoon

3 tablespoons vegetable oil vegetable oil. Place on the grill rack or on a broiler pan and cook,
turning once, until seared on both sides, about 1 minute on each
1 teaspoon brown sugar
side. Transfer to a cutting board and season to taste with salt and
4 cups (6 oz/185 g) torn
pepper. Cut against the grain into strips A inch l

(6 mm) thick.
red- or green-leaf lettuce

leaves (bite-sized pieces)

Arrange the beef strips over the lettuce mixture and pour the
1 cup (2 oz/60 g) bean garlic mixture evenly over the top. Garnish with the mint sprigs if

sprouts THAI CHILES

desired and serve hot.

Vi cup 1
oz/75 Also called bird chiles, these
(2 /2 g)

finely shredded carrot, Variation Tip: This salad can also he eaten wrapped in a lettuce leaf. tiny, slender hot peppers are

preferably cut on a Use 2 cups (3 oz/90 g) torn leaves, and keep 8-12 leaves whole. Toss used both fresh and dried in

mandoline the torn leaves and other ingredients with only half oft he sauce, and Thai cooking. In the market,

they can be found green, or

V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh pat the rest of die sauce in a small hotel for dipping. To eat, place a
still immature, and red, fully
basil leaves, left whole if leaf in the palm of your hand and fill it with some of the salad and
mature. The heat of Thai
small and torn into pieces
meat, then fold the bottom of the leaf around the salad. Told the
if large chiles is quite intense. When
sides over and then roll up loosely and eat out of hand, after first
preparing these or any chiles,
V2 cup ( A oz/20
3
g) minced dipping it in the remaining sauce. be careful not to touch your
fresh mint, plus several
eyes or mouth; consider
sprigs MAKES 4 i, SI RVINGS
wearing rubber gloves to

V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) fresh protect your hands. The thin

cilantro (fresh coriander) membranes inside the chiles

leaves are carriers of capsaicin,

which is what makes chiles

1 lb (500 g) beef sirloin
or tri-tip
hot. The membranes transfer

this heat to the seeds, so

Salt and freshly ground
removing them both will
pepper
reduce the fire.

53
 NECTARINE, MELON. AND BLACKBERRY
SALAD WITH FRESH MINT
Halve, pit, and thinly slice the nectarines. Halve and seed the 3 white or yellow

cut side down, on work nectarines

cantaloupe, and place each half, a surface.

Carefully cut away the peel, then cut the melon flesh into 1-inch 1 small cantaloupe

(2.5-cm) cubes.
1 tablespoon fresh
lemon juice
In a bowl, combine the nectarine slices and melon cubes. Add the

lemon juice and gently mix the fruits with a large spoon. Add all 1 cup (4 oz/125 g)

blackberries
but 4 or 5 of the berries and all but about 1 teaspoon of the mint,

and again mix gently. Garnish with the reserved berries and mint 2 tablespoons julienned
fresh mint leaves
and serve immediately.

Serving Tip: For individual servings, put the mixed nectarine and
cantaloupe in tulip glasses or small howls after adding the lemon

juice and most of the mint. Top these individual servings with the

berries and the remaining mint, and let each person toss his or her

own salad.
HANDLING BERRIES
Fresh berries are delicate
\\ \l-.l S \ SI RVINGS
and should be handled with

care. Do not wash berries

until just before you plan to

use them, as prolonged

exposure to moisture will

encourage mold. Gently rinse

berries, but do not soak them

for any length of time. If

they absorb too much water,

they will become mushy.

Keep berries refrigerated

until using. If you don't plan

to use the berries within

1-2 days, rinse and dry them

completely and then freeze

them for up to 8 months.

S4
X
 m^
UZj.

Mk

*.

• ..-. ...

:,-.' ,_
'.
 AUTUMN
With the arrival of the cooler clays of autumn, salads change

mood, moving toward warm combinations of sturdier and more

robust fruits and vegetables. Heartier dressings, enhanced with

such rich ingredients as aged cheeses, full-flavored vinegars, and

honey, signal the season's move away from summers light hand.

PERSIMMON. HONEY-GLAZED CHICKEN.

AND PEPPERY GREENS

MUSHROOMS AND FFNNEL

WITH PARMESAN CRISPS

APPLES AND WALNUTS WITH

STILTON CHEESE

WARM POTATO SALAD

WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

ROASTED RED PEPPERS

WITH WILD RICE AND ANCHOVIES

SWISS CHARD WITH PANCETTA

AND HARD-BOILED EGGS

BRUSSEI s SPROUTS
WITH WALNUTS AND ARUGULA
 PERSIMMON. HONEY-GLAZED CHICKEN,
AND PEPPERY GREENS
C
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180 C). In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons plus

the 2 tablespoons honey, oyster sauce, and lemon juice and set 1 teaspoon honey

aside to allow the flavors to blend. 1 teaspoon oyster sauce

In another small bowl, stir together the remaining 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon fresh
lemon juice
honey, the vinegar, peanut oil, and sesame oil. Set aside.
1
/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)
Rub the chicken breasts with salt and pepper to taste and place,
rice vinegar
skin side up, on a baking sheet. Roast for about 30 minutes.
2 teaspoons peanut oil
Remove from the oven and remove and discard the skin. Keeping
the chicken meat side up, baste the breasts with the honey-oyster
1
A teaspoon Asian
sesame oil
sauce mixture and continue to cook, basting several more times
with the pan drippings, until the chicken is opaque throughout, 3 bone-in chicken breast

halves
about 15 minutes longer. Remove from the oven, turn the chicken
pieces meat side down in the pan juices, and set aside. Salt and pepper

V2 head napa cabbage,

PERSIMMON VARIETIES Put the cabbage, bok choy, watercress, carrot, and chopped
shredded
The Fuyu persimmon is cilantro in a bowl. Pour the honey-vinegar mixture over all and
shaped like a flattened globe
turn to coat evenly. Add all but 4 or 5 of the persimmon slices and 2 baby bok choy, trimmed
and remains firm even when and sliced lengthwise
turn again.
the skin is dark orange and
1 cup (1 oz/30 g) packed
the persimmon is ready to Cut the chicken meat from the bones and into bite-sized cubes. watercress leaves or red
eat. The Hachiya persimmon Add them to the bowl, mixing to distribute evenly. Spoon into a Asian mustard greens
is the larger, more familial (tough stems removed)
serving bowl. Garnish with the reserved persimmon slices and the
heart-shaped fruit its flesh
cilantro sprigs. Serve at once. V3 cup (1 /2
1
oz/45 g)
does not become sweet
shredded carrot
until the persimmon is
Variation Tip: Instead of the slightly pungent napa cabbage, use 1
quite soft, i
ulpy to /4 cup (73 oz/10 g)
regular green head cabbage or a mixture of the two.
the touch The latter is good chopped fresh cilantro

for desserts and baking, but (fresh coriander), plus

MAKI S SI RVINGS several sprigs
it is the crisp Fuyu that is

nonly used in salads.

3 Fuyu persimmons,
seeded if necessary
and thinly sliced

58
 MUSHROOMS AND FENNEL
WITH PARMESAN CRISPS
2-oz (60-g) block Parmesan Preheat the broiler (grill). Line a baking sheet with parchment
cheese (baking) paper. Using a sharp knife or a mandoline, slice the

1V2 small to medium cheese very thinly (right). Arrange the cheese slices in a single

fennel bulbs layer on the prepared baking sheet. Place under the broiler about

V2 lb (250 g) firm fresh 6 inches (15 cm) from the heat source. Broil (grill) until the

white button or cremini cheese slices become crisp and lightly golden, like potato chips,
mushrooms, brushed clean 6-8 minutes. They should no longer be pliable and should lift
(see Note)
easily from the baking sheet. Set aside.
3 tablespoons fresh
lemon juice Trim away the stalks and the stem ends of the fennel, as well as

any brown spots. Using a sharp knife or a mandoline, cut the

3 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil
fennel lengthwise into very thin slices. Set aside. Again using a
sharp knife or a mandoline, cut the mushrooms lengthwise into
Salt and freshly ground
very thin slices.
pepper

4 tablespoons (V3 oz/10 g) Put the fennel and mushrooms in a bowl. Add the lemon juice,
THIN SLICING
chopped fresh flat-leaf olive oil, V2 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 3 tablespoons
With practice, paper-thin
(Italian) parsley
of the parsley. Mix to coat well.
slicing can be clone with a

4 cups (4 oz/125 g) mixed very sharp knife. Hold the

Line a serving platter with the lettuce. Spoon the fennel mixture
young, tender lettuce
vegetable with fingertips
leaves on top of the lettuce leaves, sprinkle with the remaining 1 table-
bent slightly under to keep
spoon parsley, and surround with the Parmesan crisps. Serve
them safely away from the

immediately. blade. To make very thin

slices with ease, however,

Note: The mushrooms for this recipe must he very fresh and tightly use a stainless-steel French

closed with no gills exposed. mandoline, a sturdy tool with

an adjustable blade. Many

Variation Tip: Very thinly sliced celery can he substituted for the fennel
models have two blades, one
in this recipe. Like fennel, celery is crisp and clean tasting. Several serrated and one straight,
anchovy fillets could he added as well. and include a hand guard for

extra protection. Asian sheers

MAKES 4 SERVINGS
or shredders of similar di

are available, usually

of plastic.

01
 APPLES AND WALNUTS WITH
STILTON CHEESE
Put one-third of the cheese in the bottom of a large bowl. Add the 6 oz (185 g) Stilton cheese

olive oil and, using a fork, mash together the cheese and oil. Add 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
the vinegar and continue to mash and to mix. Add the cream and olive oil

1 teaspoon pepper and mix well to make a thick, chunky dressing.

1 tablespoon red wine
vinegar
Add the apples, sliced celery, currants, and lemon juice to the

dressing and mix well. Crumble the remaining cheese and sprinkle 2 tablespoons heavy
(double) cream
it over the salad along with half of the walnuts. Mix them into the

salad gently and evenly. Freshly ground pepper

Transfer the salad to a serving bowl and garnish with the remaining 6 sweet eating apples
such as Braeburn, Gala, or
walnuts and the celery leaves. Serve at once.
Red Delicious, unpeeled,

cored and cut into 1/2-inch

MAM S SI R\
(12-mm) dice

4 celery stalks, thinly

sliced, plus several whole
PAIRING WAI NUTS
celery leaves for garnish
This salad takes advantage

of two classic pairings: 2 tablespoons dried

walnuts with Stilton cheese currants or raisins

and walnuts with apples. tablespoon fresh

1

Another fruit that goes well lemon juice

with walnuts are pears, so
V2 cup (2 oz/60 g) coarsely
if the market has stocked
chopped walnuts, toasted
beautiful pears— Bosc, red
(page 109)
Bartlett (Williams'), Anjou—
you can use them in place of

the apples. Other blue-veined

cheeses such as Maytag,

bleu d'Auvergne, or Danish

blue can be substituted

for the Stilton.

62
 WARM POTATO SALAD
WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR
6 slices bacon In a frying pan over medium heat, fry the bacon until crisp, about
6 minutes. Transfer the bacon slices to paper towels to drain.
2 lb (1 kg) small waxy
potatoes such as Yukon When cool, crumble and set aside. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons
gold, Yellow Finn, or Red of the bacon drippings from the pan and set the pan aside.
Rose
In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes, 2 teaspoons salt, and
Salt and freshly ground
water to cover by 2 inches (5 cmj. Bring to a boil over medium-
pepper
high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, uncovered, until
1 small red onion, minced
the potatoes are tender and can be easily pierced with a fork,
1
/3 cup (2 oz/60 g) finely 20-25 minutes. Drain and, when just cool enough to handle, cut
chopped celery
into slices about A inch
l
(6 mm) thick.

2 tablespoons chopped
fresh flat-leaf (Italian)
Place the warm potato slices on a platter in 2 or 3 layers. Sprinkle

parsley the crumbled bacon, the onion, the celery, the parsley, and the
minced chives over them.
2 tablespoons minced
fresh chives, plus several
Reheat the bacon fat in the frying pan over medium heat just BALSAMIC VINEGAR
longer chive lengths
enough to warm it through. Add the balsamic vinegar and deglaze A specialty of Modena, Italy,

Vt cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) true balsamic vinegar made

the pan, scraping up any bits clinging to the bottom. Add the is

balsamic vinegar from white Trebbiano grapes

chicken broth, red wine vinegar, sugar, k teaspoon x
salt, and
and is long aged in a series of
V2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)
1 teaspoon pepper and bring to a boil. Pour about half of the hot
chicken broth wooden casks. Labeled acero
balsamic mixture over the potatoes, turning them gently so they
balsamico tradizionale, it must
2 tablespoons red don't break or mash. Add the rest of the balsamic mixture, garnish be aged for at least twelve
wine vinegar
with the chive lengths, and serve immediately. years and sometimes far

1 teaspoon sugar longer. Because of its intense

Note: There are many versions of warm potato salad, sometimes flavor and syrupy consistency,

called German potato salad. Some of them omit the bacon fat, it is used very sparingly as a

condiment in a finished dish.

adding instead a little more chicken broth, in which case the salad
Although much of the balsamic
can also be served cold. For a traditional cold potato salad with
vinegar available is not true
mayonnaise, see page 14.
tradizionale balsamic, a lesser

balsamic vinegar can still be

MAKES 6 SERVINGS
of high quality and make a

superb salad dressing.

65
 ROASTED RED PEPPERS
WITH WILD RICE AND ANCHOVIES
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the water and 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 ml)

1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Add the wild rice, let the water water

return to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until Salt and freshly ground

the rice has absorbed the water and many of the kernels have pepper

split, 20-25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, 1 cup (6 oz/185 g) wild rice

to steam for about 15 minutes.

1 tablespoon sherry
vinegar
Transfer the rice to a bowl. Add the sherry and red wine vinegars,

green onion, anchovies, all but 1 tablespoon of the bell peppers, 1 teaspoon red wine
vinegar
Vi teaspoon pepper, and the chopped parsley. Add 3 tablespoons
of the olive oil and gently mix. If it seems a little dry, add the 1
/4 cup (
3
A oz/20 g)

remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cover and let stand for 1 hour chopped green (spring)

onion, including tender

before serving, to let the flavors blend.
green parts

Transfer the salad to a serving bowl or platter. Place the remaining

6 anchovy fillets,

bell pepper in the center and garnish with the parsley sprigs. preferably olive oil
WILD RILh
Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. packed, minced
Wild rice is not a true

rice, but rather the grain 2 red bell peppers

Serving Tip: Because of its pronounced anchovy flavor, this salad is
(capsicums), roasted
of a marsh grass. Native
best served in smaller portions as a first course, perhaps accompanied and peeled (page 113),
Americans have long gathered
with a crusty baguette and a bowl of olives. then chopped
it from lakes in the northern

united States, where it grows % cup (

1
/3 oz/10 g)
MAKI S A M KVINGS
wild. Today, large commercial chopped fresh flat-leaf

crops are cultivated as well, (Italian) parsley, plus

pally by farmers in the 1 or 2 sprigs

great basin of California's 3-4 tablespoons

Sacramento River, in the
(1V2-2 fl oz/45-60 ml)
Midwest, and in Canada. Wild olive oil

s cooked similarly to

lary rice, usually steamed

or boiled, and then some-

combined with white

or brown rice

66
 SWISS CHARD WITH PANCETTA
AND HARD-BOILED EGGS
2 bunches Swiss chard Cut out the ribs from the chard leaves, cutting well into each leaf
to remove all the rib. Trim the rib ends, then chop the ribs into
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper small pieces. Bring a large saucepan three- fourths full of water to

a boil over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the

A
1
lb (125 g) pancetta or
thick-sliced bacon, coarsely chopped ribs and cook until just tender, 7 minutes. Using a slotted
chopped spoon, lift out the ribs, draining .hem well, and set aside. Add the

3 tablespoons extra-virgin
leaves to the same boiling water and cook just until tender to the

olive oil bite, 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water until

cool. Gently squeeze the leaves dry with your hands, then coarsely
1 clove garlic, minced
chop them. Gently squeeze them in your hands again. Set aside.
4 tablespoons (2 fl oz/
60 ml) balsamic vinegar Place a frying pan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the

2 tablespoons red wine pancetta and cook, turning occasionally, until nearly golden,
vinegar 5 minutes. (If using bacon, pour off the rendered fat at this point.)

4 tablespoons 1
/3 oz/10
Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the garlic and continue to
( g)

chopped fresh flat-leaf cook until the pancetta and garlic are golden. Using a slotted SWISS CHARD
(Italian) parsley spoon, transfer the pancetta and garlic to a paper towel to drain. In Italy and France, chard with

big, wide ribs— ribs wider than

5 peeled hard-boiled eggs
Add 2 tablespoons of the balsamic vinegar to the frying pan over the green of the leaf— are
(page 13), 3 coarsely
chopped and 2 cut length-
medium heat and deglaze it, stirring to scrape up bits from the favored. This is because the

wise into 6 wedges pan bottom. Pour into the bottom of a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of rib, or stem, is considered a

vegetable on its own, often

the remaining balsamic vinegar, 1 tablespoon of the red wine
V2 teaspoon cayenne
cooked and then dressed with
pepper vinegar, and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the bowl and
olive oil and garlic and served
mix well. Add the chard leaves and ribs, the pancetta and garlic,
as a side dish. Other varieties
3 tablespoons of the parsley, the remaining 1 tablespoon each of chard have thinner ribs (in a

balsamic vinegar and red wine vinegar, and V> teaspoon black range of colors) and more leaf

pepper. Mix well. Add the chopped eggs and gently mix them in. The wider and thicker the rib,

the longer it will need to cook

Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the remaining 1 table- to become tender. Even if the

spoon parsley, egg wedges, and cayenne. Serve Immediately. ribs are thin, separating them

from the leaf and chopping

MAKES 4 OR 5 SERVINGS them will give your dish a

better texture and flavor.

69
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS
WITH WALNUTS AND ARUGULA
In a saucepan, combine the Brussels sprouts, apple juice, water, 1 lb (500 g) Brussels

and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce sprouts, trimmed

the heat to low, cover, and cook just until the sprouts are tender yet 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml)

firm when pierced at the base, about 15 minutes. Drain well. apple juice

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml)

As soon as the Brussels sprouts can be handled, cut them length-
water
wise into thin slices. Put the slices in a bowl and add the walnut
Salt and freshly ground
oil, vinegar, A teaspoonl
salt, and '/_> teaspoon pepper and gently
pepper
mix them together.
1
1 /2 tablespoons walnut oil

Divide the arugula among individual plates. Spoon the Brussels

1 tablespoon cider vinegar
sprouts and their dressing over the arugula and garnish with the

walnuts. Serve while still warm. 1 cup (1 oz/30 g) young,

tender arugula (rocket)
leaves
Serving lip: Instead of serving this salad on individual plates as a

first course, try spooning it alongside roasted turkey, chicken, or pork V2 cup (2 oz/60 g) chopped
WALNUT OIL as a warm side dish. walnuts, toasted

Walnut oils vary greatly in (page 109)

quality and in composition VI \\ ES -4 SI RVINGS

The best oils are pressed from

crushed and lightly toasted

nuts. Lesser oils are made of

walnut oil mixed with a mild,

flavorless oil. Walnut oil h

rather short shelf life, only

6-8 months. After that time,

even when stored properly in

a cool, dark place, it begins to

turn rancid. To forestall

ige, always check the

date of the pressing on the

label when shopping tot

walnut oil to make sure it's

fairly fresh, and store the

oil in the refrigerator.

70
 WINTER
Winter is the season of visitors and holiday celebrations, and a
return to home-cooked meals. Hearty salads are welcome table

fare for casual gatherings of fiends and family. But salads can

also make their appearance at special holiday meals, featuring

elegant ingredients like duck breast, salmon [diet, and citrus fruit.

MIXED CITRUS
WITH RED ONIONS AND ESCAROLE
7 4

POACHED RED TROUT ON WATERCRESS

WITH BLOOD ORANGE DRESSING
77

DUCK BREAST WITH RADICCHIO

AND BITTER GREENS
78

ROASTED BEETS AND PECANS

WITH CURLY ENDIVE
81

ROASTED SALMON WITH CRUMBLED

BACON AND ARUGULA
8
;

TURKEY AND CELERY SALAD

WITH DRIED CHERRIES
85

ORANGES AND CARROTS

WITH PISTACHIOS
^^ 9m ii iii».
86
 MIXED CITRUS
WITH RED ONIONS AND ESCAROLE
Cut the onion half into paper-thin slices, then cut each slice in V2 red onion

half. Set aside.

1 grapefruit

Cut a slice off the top and bottom of the grapefruit, then stand it 1 orange

upright. Following the contour of the fruit, slice off the peel and
2 mandarin oranges
white pith in thick strips. Holding the fruit over a bowl, cut along
1 oz (30 g) Maytag or
each side of the membranes between the sections, letting each
other blue cheese
freed section and any juices drop into the bowl. Cut each section
1
/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
in half crosswise. Repeat with the orange and mandarins, then set
extra-virgin olive oil
the citrus aside.
2 tablespoons red wine
Put the cheese in the bottom of a large bowl and add the olive oil. vinegar

Using a fork, mash the cheese into the oil until well blended. Stir
Salt and freshly ground
in the vinegar, Vi teaspoon salt, and V> teaspoon pepper. Add the pepper
escarole leaves and gently mix to coat evenly. Add all the citrus
4 cups (12 oz/375 g) torn
and their juices, the red onion, and the minced chervil and gently escarole (Batavian endive)
BITTI R CHICORII s

mix to coat evenly. leaves (bite-sized pieces)

Escaro
1 1
green, belongs Sprinkle with the chervil sprigs and serve at once. /4 cup ( /3 oz/10 g)

same chicory family as frilly- minced fresh chervil, plus

leaved curly endive (chicory), several whole sprigs

Variation lip: Instead of blue cheese, add cubes of Cruyere and
purple radicchio, and pale
I ounce (30 g) of prosciutto dial has been cut into fine slivers.

Like all these chii \l,\kl S (, s| R\ INGS

htly bitter, which is why it

pairs so well with the rich

ed nuts, cheese,

and salted meats, as well as

the sweetly acidic ta:

citrus i
ng raw,

pale yellow innei heart is

best. These leaves are tendei

and less bitter than the dark

74
 <:,',<
V»
ssammimn *
 POACHED RED TROUT ON WATERCRESS
WITH BLOOD ORANGE DRESSING
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) dry In a frying pan, combine the wine, water, lemon slices, tarragon,
white wine and '/2 teaspoon salt. Place over medium-high heat and bring to

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) just below a boil. The water should be barely rippling. Add the
water trout fillets and poach, keeping the liquid at just below a simmer,

4 lemon slices, plus 1 tea-

until the fillets are just opaque throughout, 3-4 minutes. Using a

spoon fresh lemon juice slotted spoon, transfer the fillets to a plate and set aside.

teaspoon fresh minced

1
In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the orange and lemon
tarragon leaves
juices and bring to a boil. Boil until reduced to about Vi cup
Salt (4 fl oz/125 ml). Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in the

3
A lb (375 g) skinless red olive oil and the shallot.

trout or other trout fillets

Cut a slice off the top and bottom of the blood orange, then stand
Juice of 3 blood oranges
it upright. Following the contour of the fruit, slice off the peel and
3
(about A cup/6 fl oz/
white pith in thick strips. Slice the orange crosswise and remove
180 ml), plus 1 whole
blood orange any seeds. Set aside.
USING BLOOD
2 teaspoons extra-virgin Put the watercress sprigs in a bowl and pour all but 2 tablespoons ORANGES
olive oil Blood oranges can be used
of the orange-juice mixture over them. Gently mix to coat evenly.
just like other oranges,
1 teaspoon minced shallot Divide the watercress evenly among individual bowls or plates.
even though their flavor is

4 cups (4 oz/125 g) sweeter than that of navels

Break each trout fillet into several pieces and arrange the pieces
watercress sprigs (about or valencias, the two types
on top of the dressed greens. Drizzle each with a little of the
2 bunches), tough stems most commonly stocked in

removed reserved orange-juice mixture. Garnish each salad with a slice or markets. Use them for juice,

two of blood orange and serve at once. for sorbets, in salads, and
for sauces, where their

Serving Tip: If blood oranges are not available, substitute navel unusual color can be shown

off. When making a salad,

oranges and use raspberry vinegar instead of lemon juice.
remember that the juice

stains all that it touches a

MAKES 4 SERVINGS
brilliant red. If you want to

keep colors separate, add

the blood oranges at the last

minute, just before serving.

77
 DUCK BREAST WITH RADICCHIO
AND BITTER GREENS
In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, Vi teaspoon 3 tablespoons fresh

salt, and A teaspoon pepper. Slowly

l
drizzle in the olive oil while lemon juice

whisking, to make a thick vinaigrette. 1 teaspoon Champagne

vinegar
Using a sharp knife, cut away the hard white core from the base of
Salt and freshly ground
the radicchio. Cut the head lengthwise into slices A inch (6 l
mm)
pepper
thick, then separate the layers and remove the hard V-shaped
2 tablespoons olive oil
core. Put the cut radicchio into the bowl holding the vinaigrette.

Add the arugula, watercress, and parsley and gently mix. Set aside. 2 small heads radicchio

Pat the duck breast dry. In a frying pan over high heat, warm 1 cup (1 oz/30 g) baby
arugula (rocket) leaves
Vi teaspoon salt. When it is hot, add the duck breast, skin side

down. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until crisp and V2 cup (V2 oz/15 g) water-
cress, red Asian mustard
golden brown on the first side, 6-7 minutes. Turn over and cook
greens, or dandelion
the other side until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Cover the
leaves (bite-sized pieces)
pan and cook until the duck breast is medium-rare, another or additional whole baby
COOKING
3-4 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels. arugula (rocket) leaves
DUCK BREAST
fairly thick, 2 tablespoons chopped
Transfer the duck breast to a cutting board and use a knife to
fatty skin. When the breast is
fresh flat-leaf (Italian)
separate the breast halves. Cut each breast half crosswise into
parsley
seared, some of the fat melts
slices '/i inch (6 mm) thick.
away, flavoring the meat in the 1 whole boneless
id the skin turns duck breast
Heap the dressed radicchio mixture in a bowl or on a platter,
a lovely golden brown. To
fluffing up the middle, and arrange the duck slices on top of it,

iplish this, cook the

giving them a final sprinkling of pepper. Serve while the duck is
- skin side down to start,

ieeds the fat-melting

still warm.
process without overcooking

last. (The meat should Serving Tip: A full-bodied red wine such as a Barbera from Italy or a

least pink, if not deep Syrah from France wonderfully complements die rich flavor of the

rose, when done.) Once the duck and die hitler flavor of die greens.
skin is brown, turn the breast

over to allow the meat to cook MAKI S 4 SI RVINGS

if desired,

remov i
before serving.

78
 ROASTED BEETS AND PECANS
WITH CURLY ENDIVE
6 small beets Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). If the greens are still attached
''
to the beets, cut them off, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the
2 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil, plus extra for stem intact, and reserve the greens for another use. Lightly oil the

rubbing on beets unpeeled beets with olive oil and place in a baking pan. Roast, '«***'*'* -fl
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) turning occasionally, until tender when pierced with a fork,

balsamic vinegar 40-45 minutes. Remove and let stand until cool enough to handle,

Salt and freshly ground

then peel and cut into rounds 'A inch (6 mm) thick. Place in a

pepper bowl, cover to keep warm, and set aside.

il
4 cups (12 oz/375 g) torn In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, A teaspoon l
salt, and
curly endive (chicory)
Vi teaspoon pepper. Slowly drizzle in the 2 tablespoons olive oil fag^* ^H|
leaves, pale inner leaves
Lr -«»

m
only (bite-sized pieces)
while whisking, to make a thick vinaigrette.

1 cup (1 oz/30 g) Divide the curly endive and watercress among individual plates.
watercress sprigs (about Top with the beet rounds and drizzle with the vinaigrette. Garnish
Vz bunch)
with the orange zest and the toasted pecans. Serve at once.
COOKING WITH BEETS
1
A cup A (
1
oz/7 g) grated
Beets are now available in a
orange zest Variation Tip: For an extra garnish, add a spoonful or two of
range of colors, including gold,
crumbled fresh goal cheese.
3
A cup (3 oz/90 g) coarsely though deep red beets remain
chopped pecans, toasted the most familiar type. The
MAkl S 4 SI RVINGS
(page 109)
intense color of red beets is due

to the presence of a pigment

called betanin, which stains

anything the beet touches red

This is why beets are said to

"bleed." To minimize the

bleeding, do not cut into beets

before cooking, instead, leave a

bit of the beet greens intact, as

well as the root, waiting until

after the beets are cooked to

trim them. A mixture of golden

and red beets is especially

attractive in this salad.

 ROASTED SALMON WITH CRUMBLED
BACON AND ARUGULA
Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C). In a frying pan over medium 4 slices bacon

heat, fry the bacon until crisp, about 6 minutes. Transfer to paper
2 tablespoons minced
towels to drain. Let cool, then crumble and set aside. shallot

Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the bacon drippings and 73 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml)
balsamic vinegar
return the pan to medium-low heat. Add the shallot and saute for

1-2 minutes, then raise the heat to medium-high. Add the vinegar 2 tablespoons chicken

broth
and deglaze the pan, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from

the pan bottom. Add the chicken broth, reduce the heat to low, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin

Remove olive oil

and simmer for a minute or two. Whisk in the olive oil.

from the heat and cover to keep warm. 2 salmon fillets, each
-*'"'
about 72 lb (250 g) and
Cut the salmon fillets in half and rub the pieces on both sides with 72- 3A inch (12 mm-2 cm)
salt and pepper to taste. Lightly oil a baking dish large enough to thick

accommodate the salmon fillets in a single layer and place them

Salt and freshly ground
in the prepared dish. Roast in the oven until just opaque when pepper
CHOOSING SALMON
pierced at the center, 13-15 minutes.
Salmon flesh varies in color 2 cups (2 oz/60 g) young,
tender arugula (rocket)
from red to pale pink, but the While the fish is cooking, divide the arugula and lettuce among
leaves
texture of the flesh is more
individual salad plates, and drizzle with all but 2 tablespoons of
important than the color, it
2 cups (3 oz/90 g) torn
the balsamic mixture. When the fish is ready, place a portion on
should be firm to the touch, red-leaf lettuce leaves
each plate, drizzle with the remaining balsamic mixture, and top
not soft, and the skin, if still (bite-sized pieces)

intact, should be slippery. evenly with the crumbled bacon. Serve at once.

When purchasing a whole

salmon, look for bright eyes. Variation lip: lor an Italian accent, instead of bacon, use snippets

Salmon have a large backbone of crisp prosciutto, accomplished by hardy sauteing thin strips in a

and plenty of small, needlelike little olive oil.

bones in the fish's meaty sides,

sometimes still present in MAM S 4 SI RVINGS

fillets. These can be removed

before or after cooking with

sturdy tweezers or needle-

nosed pliers that are kept

reserved for kitchen use.

82
 ***S
Ittl* «&it
'&*****
 TURKEY AND CELERY SALAD
WITH DRIED CHERRIES
1 small celery root (celeriac), Using a paring knife, peel the thick skin from the celery root (see
3
about /4 lb (375 g) page 18). Then, using the large holes on a handheld grater-

4 celery stalks, minced shredder, shred it into a bowl.

2 cups (12 oz/375 g) diced Add the celery, turkey, pine nuts, dried cherries, sour cream,
cooked turkey or chicken,
mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, '/_ teaspoon salt, and V2 teaspoon
chilled (see Note)
pepper to the celery root and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at
1
Vi CUP (1 /2 OZ/45 g) least 1 hour and up to 24 hours before serving.
pine nuts

Line a platter with the lettuce leaves. Mound the turkey mixture
A cup
1
(1 oz/30 g) dried

pitted cherries, halved, or atop the lettuce. Serve at once.

other dried fruits (far right)

Note: For the cooked poultry in this recipe, use leftover roasted turkey
2 tablespoons light
or chicken. If you hove none on hand, poach some chicken breasts.
sour cream
Put 2 or 3 bone-in chicken breast halves in a large saucepan and add
2 tablespoons mayonnaise,
lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce
preferably homemade
the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat DRIED FRUITS
(page 111)
IN SALADS
and let stand for 30 minutes. Discard the skin and bones and cut the
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Dried fruits are an excellent
meat into bile-sized pieces.
pantry item, especially in
1V2 tablespoons
Serving Tip: This salad, like other turkey or chicken salads or tuna winter when fresh fruits are
Champagne vinegar
salad, makes an excellent sandwich filling. It is especially good on not as varied as they are in

Salt and freshly ground other seasons. Dried cherries,

rye bread or sourdough. It also makes a nice main course for two.
pepper cranberries, peaches, plums,

8-10 lettuce leaves MARES 4 SERVINGS apricots, pears, and even

dried mangoes and pineapple

can add a flavorful boost to

green salads, pasta salads,

and grain-based salads. Chop

or julienne larger fruits and

halve smaller ones such as

cranberries and cherries

before adding them.

85
 ORANGES AND CARROTS
WITH PISTACHIOS
Using the fine shredding blade of a mandoline or the large holes 1 lb (500 g) carrots, peeled

on a handheld grater-shredder, finely shred the carrots.

Juice of 1 lemon

In a salad bowl, stir together the lemon juice, the sugar, and the 1 tablespoon sugar

Cointreau. Add the carrots and gently mix. Cover and refrigerate
1 teaspoon Cointreau or
this mixture for at least 1 hour or for up to 8 hours to allow the other orange-flavored

flavors to blend. liqueur

2 navel oranges
Just before serving, using a zester, remove the zest from 1 orange

in long, thin ribbons. Cut a slice off the top and bottom of the 2 tablespoons minced

upright. Following the contour of the fresh mint

orange, then stand it fruit,

slice off the peel and white pith in thick strips. Cut the orange 3 tablespoons chopped

crosswise into slices A inch (6 l

mm) thick. Peel and slice the pistachios

second orange in the same way.

Add the orange zest and slices to the bowl and mix them gently
ZESTING CITRUS into the carrots.

Citrus zest, the colored portion

Divide the salad among individual bowls or plates. Garnish each
of the peel, is rich in aromatic

and flavorful oils. When zesting, serving with an equal amount of the mint and pistachios.

choose organic fruit if possible

and scrub the fruit well to

Serving lip: When serving this salad as a first course, accompany it

remove any wax or residue. with something sally, such as a slice of prosciutto or good salami.
Use only the thin outer layer of The saltiness is the perfect foil to the tart sweetness of the oranges.

the rind, taking care not to

include the bitter white pith. MAM S I s| KVINGS

Zest may be removed with a

zester, a tool designed to

remove the zest in thin strips.

A vegetable peeler or a paring

knife can be used, but will

produce pieces that are short,

wide, and irregular. Zest may

be removed with the fine rasps

of a handheld grater as well.

86
 PICNIC SALADS
Hal [the fun of a picnic or a potluck is to see and to sample what

everyone else has brought. Salads are an excellent choice for such

affairs because they're relatively easy to make and a lot of variety

is possible. Some salads are better suited for transporting than

others. The recipes that follow fit the bill: Their flavors improve

after sitting, or they can be assembled and dressed easily on-site.

RIGA ION I SALAD WITH GREEN

( \ULIFL< )WI R. C APERS. AND SAI I RON
SKI

LOMATOES WITH ANCHOVIES AND OLIVES

LENTIL SAI AD WITH MOZZARELLA

AND PROSCIU I lo
l
>4

ANCHOIADE WITH RADISHES.

LENNEL. CE1 E RY, AND CARROTS

1'U I SALAD WITH TUNA AND CAPERS

98

COUSCOUS SAI AD WITH CHI RRY TOMATOI S

AND BELL PI PPI RS

101

WHI I WITH
I PI Will S

ALMONDS AND CURRANTS

10
 RIGATONI SALAD WITH GREEN
CAULIFLOWER. CAPERS, AND SAFFRON
In a small bowl, stir together 4 tablespoons (2 11 oz/60 ml) of the 6 tablespoons (3 fl oz/

olive oil, the lemon juice, saffron, cumin, cayenne, and V> teaspoon 90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

salt. Set aside. 1

/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) fresh
lemon juice
Put the cauliflower florets in a steamer basket and sprinkle with
1
A teaspoon saffron
Vz teaspoon salt. Place over boiling water, cover, and steam until
threads
just tender, 7-8 minutes. The florets should still have a little

crunch to them and not be at all mushy Remove the steamer

% teaspoon ground cumin

basket from the pan and place under cold running water to stop 1
/8 teaspoon cayenne

the cooking. Drain well. pepper

Salt
Bring a large saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil and
add 1 teaspoon salt. Add the rigatoni, stir well, and cook until 1 head green or white
cauliflower, stems trimmed
al dente, 9-10 minutes or according to package directions. Drain
and head separated into
and transfer to a large, deep bowl.
bite-sized florets

SAI I RON loss the pasta with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the 10 oz (315 g) rigatoni

Saffron is the dried orange-red cooled cauliflower and the lemon-juice mixture and turn to coat 1
A cup A oz/7
(
1
g) fresh
stigmas of a type of crocus. few of the parsley leaves for garnish and add the
well. Set aside a flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
The autumn-blooming flower is
remaining parsley leaves and the thyme to the pasta, turning to leaves
native to eastern Europe and
distribute evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to
1 teaspoon minced
western Asia, although since
6 hours before serving to allow the flavors to blend. fresh thyme
the Middle Ages it has been

cultivated elsewhere In Europe 2 tablespoons capers,

Bring the salad to room temperature. Garnish with the reserved
as well and used especially in rinsed
parsley leaves and the capers and serve.
Spanish cooking. For the best

y, choose saffron threads,

Variation I
' ip: Rigatoni is not the only choice for this pasta salad. Try
or actual stigmas, rather than
any pasta that has a ridged and irregular shape, such as fusil //,
powdered saffron, which loses

i /or with storage Saffron rotelle, or radiatori. These pastas will capture the sauce in their

is used both for the lovely nooks and crannies and infuse the salad with flavor.
burnished golden color it

and
MAKES 8 SI KVINCS
to a dish for its

slightly bitter yet subtly

perfumed flavor.

90
 TOMATOES WITH ANCHOVIES AND OLIVES
12-14 medium to Arrange the tomatoes in overlapping layers on a platter. Evenly
large tomatoes, sliced distribute the anchovy fillets over them, then scatter the olives
a generous A
1
inch
across the top.
(6 mm) thick

24 anchovy fillets,
To make the vinaigrette, in a bowl or a mortar, combine the garlic

preferably olive oil packed and Vi teaspoon salt. Using a fork or a pestle, crush them into a

3
paste. Add the olive oil slowly, beating it in with the fork, and then
/4CUp(4 0Z/125g)
oil-cured black olives add the vinegar and V-± teaspoon pepper, mixing well. Put the

vinaigrette in a jar and cover tightly.

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
Shortly before serving, shake the vinaigrette in its jar and pour
2 cloves garlic, coarsely

chopped it over the platter of tomatoes. Garnish with the parsley sprigs

if desired.
Salt and freshly ground
pepper
Serving Tip: Ifyou are taking this salad to a picnic or potluck, consider
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) bringing a cutting board and knife, tbe tomatoes, the anchovies and
extra-virgin olive oil
olives in containers, and the jar containing the vinaigrette. Then, cut
ANCHOVY STYLES

wine Anchovies packed in oil and

2 tablespoons red tbe tomatoes and assemble the salad on-site.
vinegar packed in salt are essentially

MAKES 8 SERVINGS interchangeable in terms of

use, but their textures differ.

Fresh flat-leaf (Italian)
Salt-packed whole anchovies
parsley sprigs for garnish

(optional) tend to be firmer than oil-

packed fillets. They should be

rinsed, skinned if needed by

scraping the scales with a

knife, and filleted by splitting

the fish along the backbone,

then lifting out the bones.

If the fish is excessively salty,

soak it for a few minutes in

cool water. Olive oil-packed

fillets need only be drained,

after rinsing if desired. The

oil can supply a positive

note to certain dishes, such

as this one.

93
 LENTIL SALAD WITH MOZZARELLA
AND PROSCIUTTO
Pick over the lentils, removing any grit or misshapen lentils, then 1 /4
1
cups (9 OZ/280 g)

rinse well. In a saucepan over high heat, combine the water and French green lentils

'/.' teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Add the lentils, reduce the 4 cups (32 fl oz/1 I) water

heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the lentils are tender
Salt and freshly ground
but still hold their shape, 20-25 minutes. Be careful not to over- pepper
cook. Remove from the heat and drain well. Let cool to room
3 tablespoons extra-virgin
temperature. olive oil

In a bowl, stir together the olive oil, vinegar, h teaspoon pepper,

x
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)

onion, 2 tablespoons of the basil, and all but one-fourth of the red wine vinegar

prosciutto. Add the lentils and mix well. 2 tablespoons minced

red onion
Spoon the lentils onto a platter. Arrange the mozzarella slices
1
4 tablespoons /3 oz/10 g)
tucking them under the
(
around the edges of the platter, lentils.
julienned fresh basil
Sprinkle the remaining minced and whole basil leaves and the
leaves, plus whole leaves
prosciutto over the lentils, and serve. for garnish
LENTILS
There are many different types Vi lb (125 g) paper-thin
Serving Tip: If you are transporting your dish, slice the mozzarella,
of lentils, ranging in color from prosciutto slices, cut into
///<// return it to the liquid in which it teas /nicked. This will keep it
green to brown to red to pink
strips 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide
fresh and moist, lust before serving, add the mozzarella and the
to yellow, in Indian and Middle
7s lb (155 g) fresh
garnishes to the platter.
Eastern cooking, red and yellow mozzarella cheese, cut
are typically used. In India, into slices a generous
MAKI S (. si R.VINGS
these lentils are also called dal,
1
/4 inch (6 mm) thick

a term that refers both to the

legumes and to the dish made

from them. For Mediterranean-

style dishes, such as this salad,

use the relatively tiny French

green lentils (also called

lentilles vertes du Puy or Puy

lentils), as they keep their shape

better during cooking than the

more familiar brown lentils.

94
I
 ANCHOIADE WITH RADISHES,
FENNEL, CELERY, AND CARROTS
FOR THE ANCHOIADE: To make the anchoiade, in a small frying pan over low heat, warm
/3- 3/4CUp(5-6 flOZ/
2
% cup olive oil. Add the anchovies and garlic and cook, mashing

160-180 ml) extra-virgin the anchovies until they dissolve into the oil to make a paste,

olive oil about 3 minutes. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining oil to

4 oz (125 g) anchovy fillets,

give the sauce the consistency of a thick vinaigrette. Alternatively,

preferably olive oil packed mash the garlic and anchovies together in a mortar with a pestle

5 cloves garlic, crushed

or process in a mini food processor to make a paste, then slowly

and then minced add the olive oil to achieve the proper consistency. Transfer to a

small bowl.

1 bunch red radishes,

Arrange the radishes, fennel, celery, and carrots in a serving bowl
trimmed
or on a platter. Serve accompanied with the anchoiade.
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed
and cut lengthwise into
Serving lip: Offer a couple of crusty baguettes or some bread slicks
slices Vi inch (6 mm) thick
along with the vegetables.
and V2 inch (12 mm) wide
ANCHOIADE
4 celery stalks, cut into MAKES S SI RVINGS
Anchoiade, a thickened
pieces 3 inches (7.5 cm)
long and Vt inch (12 mm) sauce of anchovies, olive oil,

thick and garlic, is a traditional

Provengal spread for toasts

4 carrots, peeled and
or dipping sauce for raw
cut into sticks 3 inches
vegetables. When used as a
(7.5 cm) long and Viz inch
dip, it is similar to the Italian
(12 mm) thick
bagna cauda, which is sei

hot. For dipping in both

anchoiade and bagna cauda

a variety of raw vegei

are used, from common

carrots, radishes, fennel,

and celery to more unusual

black radishes and Jerusalem

artichokes. Boiled bee

potatoes are sometimes

included as well.

07
 RICE SALAD WITH TUNA AND CAPERS
In a saucepan over high heat, combine the water and Vi teaspoon 4 cups (32 fl oz/1 I) water

salt and bring to a boil. Add the rice, bring back to a boil, reduce
Salt and freshly ground
the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and the pepper
liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and
2 cups (14 oz/440 g)
let stand, covered, until completely cool, at least 1 hour. Separate long-grain white rice

the grains with a fork.

2 cans (6 oz/185 g each)
tuna, preferably olive oil
Drain the tuna of its excess oil, put it in a bowl, and then flake it

packed
with a fork.

74 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) fresh

In a large bowl, stir together the lemon juice, olive oil, 1 teaspoon lemon juice or white wine
salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Add the rice, tuna, capers, parsley, vinegar

chopped basil, and cilantro and mix gently.

74 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml)
extra-virgin olive oil
Transfer the salad to a serving bowl and garnish with the whole

basil leaves. 172 tablespoons capers,

rinsed
CAPI RS
Capers are the small unopened Serving Tip: To make individual servings, cut large tomatoes in half 72 cup (74 oz/20 g)

flower buds of a shrub native and scoop them out. leaving a shell, kill the halves to heaping with chopped fresh flat-leaf

to the Mediterranean They the salad and garnish each with a basil sprig. (Italian) parsley

are sun-dried and packed in

72 cup (74 oz/20 g)
Make-Ahead lip: Von can cook the rice I day in advance of making
brine or salt, and they bring a chopped fresh basil, plus
pleasant pungent flavor and a
the salad and refrigerate it. Bring it hack to room temperature before
whole leaves for garnish

light crunch to a variety of assembling and serving the salad.

72 cup (74 oz/20 g)
dishes. Many consider the
MAkl S <s >l RVINGS chopped fresh cilantro
smallest variety of capers,
(fresh coriander)
called nonpareils, to be the

finest. This pickled variety

comes from Provence, in

southern France. Larger pea-

sized capers are also good.

Before using, be sure to rinse

salted capers in cool water or

drain capers packed in brine

and gently blot dry with a

paper towel.

(
)8
X
i

,m
 COUSCOUS SALAD WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
AND BELL PEPPERS

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) In a saucepan over high heat, combine the water, the 1 teaspoon
water olive oil, and Vi teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Pour in the couscous,

Va cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) plus stirring constantly, and remove from the heat. Cover and let stand
1 teaspoon extra-virgin for 15 minutes. The liquid will be fully absorbed and the couscous
olive oil
will have plumped.
Salt
Meanwhile, roast and peel the bell peppers (see page 113) and
2 cups (12 oz/375 g)
chop them coarsely. Stem the cherry tomatoes and halve them
instant couscous
lengthwise.
1V2 red bell peppers

(capsicums) Transfer the couscous to a large serving bowl. Using a fork, fluff

1
the couscous grains to separate them. Add the bell peppers,
1 /2 cups (9 oz/280 g)

mixed red and yellow tomatoes, chopped mint, orange juice, orange zest, A cup olive
[

cherry tomatoes oil, vinegar, and Vi teaspoon salt. Mix gently but well. Cover and

1 1
refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours before serving,
/4 cup ( /3 oz/10 g)

chopped fresh mint, plus to allow the flavors to blend.

couscous
whole sprigs for garnish
Garnish with the mint sprigs and serve the salad chilled or at Although it is commonly
1
A cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) mistaken for a grain, cous
room temperature.
fresh orange juice is actually tiny pasta made
from durum-wheat semolina.
1 tablespoon grated Make-Ahead Tip: Because this salad is best when the flavors have
orange zest In North African countries
been allowed to blend for several hours, it is a good choice for making
such as Tunisia and Morocco,
3 tablespoons red wine in the morning and taking along to a leisurely picnic. It can he carried
where it is a staple, it is

vinegar easily in a covered howl.

traditionally made by hand

and then steamed twi

MAKES 8 SERVINGS
special two-tiered pot

a couscousiere. Elsewhere,

precooked dried couscous,

sometimes called instant

couscous, Is available

packaged or in bulk it

requires no cooking at all-

just rehydrating in boiling

water— before si

101
 WHITE PEACHES WITH
ALMONDS AND CURRANTS
Halve, pit, and slice the peeled peaches. Place them in a large 10 white peaches, peeled
(far left)
bowl and add the currants.
V2 cup (3 oz/90 g)
In a small bowl, stir together the lemon juice and sugar until the
dried currants
sugar dissolves, then pour the mixture over the peaches and the
3 tablespoons fresh
currants. Stir gently to coat evenly, then stir in the almond extract.
lemon juice

lust before serving, sprinkle with the almonds.

2 tablespoons sugar

^ Serving Tip: Scree this simple fruit salad as a (lessen with a late-
1
A teaspoon almond
extract (essence)
harvest Riesling and hiscolti.

V2 cup (2 oz/60 g) sliced

Make-Ahead Tip: This salad benefits from being made several hours
chopped
(flaked) or
in advance of serving to allow the flavors to blend. It's a good choice almonds
for transporting to a picnic or parly.

MAkl S N s| RVINUS
PEELING PEACHES
To remove the fuzzy skin

of peaches with ease,

blanch them first. Bring a

large saucepan three-fourths

full of water to a boil. Cut a

shallow X on the blossom

end of each peach, working

in batches, immerse the

peaches for 30 seconds.

Using a slotted spoon,

transfer to a work surface.

When cool enough to

handle, slip off the skins,

using your fingertips or

a small, sharp knife.

02
 )

SALAD BASICS
With their myriad combinations, taste, shape, and texture. Butter contribute a tantalizing piquancy to

salads rely on seasonal ingredients (Boston) lettuce has soft leaves and a salad, but each has a distinct taste

perhaps more than any other disli. a sweet, fresh taste. Green leaf is a and can also be used on its own.
The great virtue of salads is their more crinkly lettuce with good flavor. The deeply notched leaves of arugula

inherent versatility and opportunity Pale iceberg is mild and crunchy. (rocket) are pleasantly peppery, while

for creativity; they are ideally made The delicate leaves of mache have a cress has dark green leaves with a

with whichever items in your market nutty taste. Mild oakleaf lettuce has spicy bite. Light-colored mustard

or your garden taste the best and look distinctively notched leaves, while the greens are pungent and musky, and

the most appealing. sturdy, dark green leaves of romaine round nasturtium leaves provide a

After trying a few of the recipes (cos) are more robustly flavored. peppery accent. Peppery watercress
in this book, you may be inspired to leaves are deep green and smooth.
move beyond their confines to create BITTER CHICORIES
your own mixtures. The following Members of the chicory family all FRESH GREEN HERBS
guidelines will help you create vibrant share a bitter taste, but their textures, Herbs are a special category of
and memorable combinations. leaf shapes, and degrees of bitterness greens. They can be used both as

are very different. Use chicories in seasonings and as main ingredients,

ELEMENTS OF A SALAD combination with mild lettuces to as they are in Green Herb Salad with
Reduced to its most elementary form, add both flavor and visual appeal. Champagne Vinaigrette (page 26).

salad means fresh greens. Sometimes Belgian endive (chicory or witloof The primary green herbs, discussed

lettuce is the sole ingredient — it may has crisp, cylindrical leaves that are below, have little relation to one
be simply torn or chopped, then only mildly bitter, while the deep another in flavor.

tossed with a dressing. Although at red leaves of radicchio are more Basil has a faint taste of cloves

first glance many of the greens might pronounced in flavor. Curly endive and anise, and chervil a hint of

appear similar, on closer acquaintance has frilly, bitter leaves that become licorice. Cilantro (fresh coriander) is

their individual characteristics will milder toward the heart. The ruffled lightly perfumed, nearly sweet, while
become apparent. green leaves of escarole (Batavian dill is definitely sweet and a little

endive) are slightly bitter. grassy. Mint is refreshing and sweet,

MILD LETTUCES while dainty-leaved thyme has a

All lettuces are relatively mild in flavor SPICY GREENS "clean" flavor. Parsley's taste is also

when compared to most other salad Spicy greens play an important rcle described as "clean," and the flat-

greens, but among the various lettuces in salad making, acting as an accent leaved variety is more strongly

there are distinct differences in color, when mixed with other greens. All flavored than the curly Tarragon is

105
aromatic, almost sharply perfumed, Parmesan with fennel, Gruyere with words, you should consider the need

with a sweet anise flavor. Mixing and bacon and Belgian endive, feta with for greater or lesser flavor added by
matching greens or herbs and greens melons and cilantro, and goat cheese the dressing. Infused oils, such as

makes for a lively, flavorful but still with tomatoes and basil are some basil or pepper oil, are a good way to

elegantly simple salad. For example, examples of excellent cheese pairings. add complementary flavor to a salad.

combine sturdy, slightly bitter escarole Vinegars are typically made from
with spicy watercress or arugula, or NUTS AND SEEDS wine or fermented fruits. Red v\ ine,

mild butter and red-leaf lettuces with Nuts and seeds, either raw or toasted, white wine, and balsamic are the

sprigs of chervil or cilantro. can be an integral part of a salad. most common wine vinegars, but
Pecans with spicy greens and scallops, sherry, Champagne, and port wine

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES sesame seeds with shrimp and lettuce, vinegars are also available, as are

Salads can be made entirely of fruits, and almonds with turkey and celery cider and malt vinegars.
as in Ambrosia (page 22), or entirely are a few of the best combinations. Minced fresh or crumbled dried
of vegetables, as in the classic potato For instructions on toasting, see herbs, such as basil, oregano, and
or bean salad. However, fruits and page 109. tarragon, and spices such as cayenne
vegetables can also be added to pepper, turmeric, ginger, or anise,

mixed green salads, perhaps with SALAD DRESSINGS can be added to any dressing. Dry
cheese and nuts as well. Especially A good salad dressing should or prepared mustard is a common
nice combinations include pears with enhance and harmonize with the addition, and sugar may be added
curly endive and blue cheese, and simple, fresh tastes of a salad. The as well. Vegetable or fruit juices such

beets with mache and toasted pecans. two main categories of dressings are as tomato, raspberry, or orange add
The natural sweetness of fruits and vinaigrettes and creamy dressings. a dramatic flavor dimension, as do
vegetables is balanced by the salty The first is an emulsion based on oil minced garlic, shallots, or onions.

flavors of cured meats such as bacon, and an acidic liquid, like vinegar or Simply put, salad dressings can
ham, and sausage, all delicious in fruit juice, which do not naturally mix be as creative and varied as salads
combination with fruits as well. but may be whisked into suspension. themselves.

Thicker creamy dressings are typically Whatever goes into your salad, in

CHEESE based on mayonnaise (also an most cases it should be dressed and

There are hundreds of different emulsion), yogurt, milk, tofu, sour tossed just moments before serving.

cheese varieties, and every one can cream, sweet cream, or buttermilk. Prolonged contact with the dressing

be used in a salad. Chunks of blue The oil you choose, whether a will cause leaves to wilt. Notable

cheese, crumbles of feta, shavings of bland one such as sunflower oil or exceptions are recipes in which the

Parmesan, slivers of Gruyere, dollops a distinctively flavored one such as dressing is deliberately used to

of goat cheese, or cubes of Cheddar olive or walnut oil, will depend on change the texture or flavor of the

are just a few of the possibilities. the ingredients in your salad. In other ingredients through marination.

107
PUTTING IT ALL CRISPING GREENS damp paper towels, then slip them
TOGETHER If you have the time, put washed into a plastic bag and refrigerate for

A salad might well be as simple greens in the refrigerator to chill and 3-5 days. Be especially gentle with
as torn greens tossed with a basic crisp for up to a day After washing fragile herbs, for they will bruise and
vinaigrette. A little careful attention the greens, spread a clean kitchen discolor easily.

to detail can make all the difference towel flat. Arrange the leaves in a To keep long-stemmed herbs such
between a limp salad with a watery single layer on the towel and gently as parsley, basil, and cilantro fresh

dressing and one that is crisp and roll up the leaves in the towel, jelly- for 5-7 days, trim off the stem ends
flavorful. roll fashion. Be careful not to crush from the bunch, remove any yellowed
the leaves. Loosely cover the roll with leaves, and immerse the stems in a
CHOOSING GREENS a large plastic bag or plastic wrap. container of water, like a bouquet of
To select salad greens, look for leaves When ready to use, unwrap and flowers. Drape a plastic bag loosely
that are fresh, bright, crisp, and free of unroll the lettuce. over the leaves, secure with a rubber
blemishes. Avoid any that are wilted band around the container, and
or browned. Choose heads that are PREPARING GREENS refrigerate.

densely packed and heavy for their To prepare lettuce and other greens Dried herbs lose their flavor over
size. Grocery stores stock lettuce for salad, tear large leaves into bite- time and should be replaced every
greens year-round, but during the sized pieces. Make sure they are small 6 months or so.

cool months of spring and autumn, enough to be managed easily with just

farmers' markets abound with locally a fork. Smaller leaves such as baby PREPARING HERBS
grown greens. spinach can be left whole. If a recipe Remove leaves and sprigs as needed
calls for shredded greens, neatly stack to create or garnish a salad. The
WASHING GREENS several leaves on a cutting surface leaves of herbs should be removed
To wash salad greens, immerse them and, with a sharp knife, cut across from the stems before chopping or
in a large bowl or sink filled with cool the leaves to make strips. mincing. Chopping and mincing are

water. Discard any wilted or yellowed easier when the herbs are dry; other-

leaves. Lift out the greens gently, and CHOOSING HERBS wise, they stick to the knife. Like

replace the water, repeating until the When shopping, choose herbs that lettuce leaves, herbs may also be

water is clear. A salad spinner is ideal look bright and healthy and smell stacked, rolled, and cut crosswise
for drying greens, but shaking them fragrant, avoiding those that have to make shreds, called julienne or

gently in a clean kitchen towel will wilted, yellowed, or blackened leaves. chiffonade.

also absorb excess moisture. Be sure When using dried herbs, crush

to dry the greens as much as possible, STORING HERBS and roll them between your fingers

for excess water will dilute the flavor Delicate fresh herbs require special just before adding them to a dish.

of the dressing. care during storage. Wrap herbs in This releases their flavorful oils.

108
USING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES blue cheeses such as Roquefort have HOW TO TOAST NUTS

The recipes in this book assume that a perfect consistency for crumbling, Preheat the oven to 325T (165 C). Spread
fruits and vegetables are carefully while creamy young goat cheese or the nuts in a single layer on a baking sheet.

washed before use, and each gives Gorgonzola can be scooped up with
Place the baking sheet in the oven and
instructions on peeling, seeding, and a spoon and dolloped on a salad.
toast, stirring occasionally, until the nuts are

other preparation as needed. lightly browned, fragrant, and coated in a

Some fruits and vegetables turn MAKING SALAD DRESSING layer of their own oil. Depending on the type

an unappetizing shade of brown once For instructions on making salad of nut and the size of the pieces, this may
take from 10-20 minutes.
their flesh is cut and exposed to the dressing, see page 111.

air. To slow this discoloring, rub or Remove the nuts from the pan as soon as

drizzle the cut surfaces with an acid TOSSING A SALAD they start to look done, pour them onto a

plate, and let cool. The nuts will continue

such as lemon juice or a little white When tossing a salad with a dressing,
to cook slightly after removal from the pan.
vinegar. Or, drop the cut items into a use a light hand. With a pair of salad

bowl of acidulated water, that is, water servers or two large spoons or forks, Note: Nuts may also be toasted in a small, dry

mixed with a little acid (see page 37). gently mix the greens or the other frying pan over medium heat. Shake the pan

often, and remove the nuts as soon as they

These common salad fruits and vegetables with a relatively small
start to brown. Seeds may be toasted in the
vegetables discolor on slicing and amount of dressing, distributing it
same way, but watch them very carefully or
exposure to air: apples, artichokes, with numerous tossings. Do not
they may burn.
avocados, bananas, cauliflower, celery drench the greens. Dress salad greens
root (celeriac), eggplants (aubergines), just before serving to keep them fresh
mushrooms, nectarines, parsnips, and crisp, and add garnishes such as

peaches, pears, and potatoes. toasted nuts at the last minute so that

they do not become soggy.

USING CHEESE
To ensure the fullest flavor, bring TOASTING NUTS AND SEEDS
cheeses to room temperature before Toasting nuts and seeds brings out

serving. Dry-aged cheeses such as their richness and gives them a crunch

Parmesan may be grated on the as well as a golden color. Untoasted,

smallest rasps of a combination they have a more subtle taste and a

grater-shredder. Or, use a vegetable softer texture. Like herbs, nuts and
peeler or knife to make shavings. seeds can be added as a garnish to

A semisoft cheese such as almost any salad. Sprinkling a table-

Cheddar might be shredded on the spoon or 2 across the top just before

larger holes of a grater-shredder, or serving adds not only taste but also

cut into small cubes. Feta and drier style to the finished dish.

109
^

2&W
MAKING DRESSING BASIC VINAIGRETTE BASIC MAYONNAISE

Salad dressings fall into two general 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 egg yolk
categories: vinaigrettes and creamy Coarse sea salt Salt

dressings often based on mayonnaise. 2

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional) /3 cup (5 fl oz/160 ml) extra-virgin olive
Both vinaigrettes and mayonnaise oil, grapeseed oil, or canola oil
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil,
involve making an emulsion, or
grapeseed oil, or canola oil 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
thoroughly blending together two
Freshly ground pepper
in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and
ingredients that normally don't mix,
1 teaspoon salt until blended. While whisking,
such as oil and vinegar. Put the vinegar and '/• teaspoon salt in a
slowly add the oil in a very thin stream, just
bowl and stir with a *ork to dissolve the salt.
Making a stable emulsion, one
a little at a time, blending it thoroughly into
With the fork, whisk in the mustard. Slowly
that will for last more than a few
the egg yolk.
pour the oil into the vinegar in a thin stream
minutes, requires vigorous whisking
while whisking with the fork. Season with
As the mixture begins to thicken, the oil
as well as an agent known as an Vi teaspoon pepper. Makes about 6 table- can be added a little more quickly, but don't
emulsifier to help hold the other spoons (3 fl oz/90 ml).
rush it, or the mayonnaise will separate.
ingredients together. Mustard, for Continue until all the oil is used and the
Variation Tip: This vinaigrette combines vinegar
example, is used in many vinaigrettes and oil in a ratio of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts
mayonnaise is thick.

not just for its flavor, but also for its oil. Other classic proportions are 1 part vinegar
Whisk in the lemon juice. Refrigerate for
emulsifying properties. Egg is used to 4 parts oil or to 5 parts oil. Experiment to
up to 2 hours before using. Makes about
as an emulsifier when mixing oil find a combination you like, or try different
h cup
2
(5 fl oz/160 ml).

oils, vinegars, herbs, and spices. Minced garlic

with vinegar or lemon juice to make
and minced fresh oregano or thyme will give Note: This recipe contains raw egg. For more
mayonnaise. Shown opposite are the
this vinaigrette a Mediterranean flavor Or,
information, see page 114.

basic stages in making an emulsion,

substitute balsamic vinegar for the red wine
using mayonnaise as an example: vinegar for a more aromatic dressing.

1 Mixing egg yolk and salt: The salt

is dissolved into a liquid at the start.

2 Adding the olive oil: The oil is poured in

very slowly at first, with constant whisking.

3 The mixture starts to thicken: The oil

may now be added more quickly and the

other element of the emulsion (lemon juice)

whisked in.

4 The finished mayonnaise: The vigorous

whisking and the emulsifier (egg) create a

stable emulsion.

II
ni
 GLOSSARY
ALMON DS With their delicate flavor may also be done in the broiler [grill], molds to develop a fine network of blue
and smooth texture, almonds make an but watch the peppers carefully to avoid veins for a strong, sharp, peppery flavor

elegant garnish or salad ingredient. burning their flesh.) that intensifies with age. Depending on
To blanch, or peel, almonds, place the Once the skin is blackened and its texture, blue cheese may be crumbled,
shelled nuts in a large heatproof bowl puffy, transfer the peppers to a paper diced, spread, or sliced for use in a salad.

and pour boiling water over them. Let bag and close loosely. This allows the Some of the most popular types include
stand for about 1 minute, then drain the peppers to steam as they cool and helps milder Gorgonzola and Maytag, and

nuts in a colander and rinse with cold the skins to loosen When cool, peel or stronger Roquefort and Stilton.

running water to cool. Pinch each nut to rub away the charred skin. Do not worry

slip off its bitter skin. if a little stays on the flesh. Don't rinse CH ERVIL A springtime herb with curly,

For instructions on toasting nuts, sec the peppers under running water, or dark green leaves. Best when used fresh

page 109. you will wash away some flavor. in salads, with vegetables, or with eggs,
Lay the peppers on a cutting board. it has mild flavor reminiscent of parsley
AVOCADOS To ripen avocados, store Using a small, sharp knife, slit each and anise.

them in a warm, dark place for a few pepper lengthwise. Some liquid will run
days. To speed the ripening process, out, so have a bowl ready to catch the CITRUS REAMER A handheld or free-

put the avocado in a paper bag with an juices or mop them up with paper towels. standing tool designed to squeeze the
apple, a banana, or a tomato. Ethylene Open the pepper and spread it on the juice from lemons, usually by means of
gases emitted by the other fruit will cutting board. Cut around the stem end, a mound-shaped ridged surface pressed

hasten ripening. then remove the stem, seeds, and white and twisted against and into a lemon half.

To pit and peel an avocado, use a membranes, or ribs. Now slice or dice

small, sharp knife to carefully cut it in the pepper according to the instructions DEGLAZING Using liquid to dislodge

half lengthwise around the large, round in a recipe. If desired, use the juices in and dissolve the browned bits of meat,
pit at the center. Rotate the halves in the dressing for extra bell-pepper flavor. poultry, or other sauteed or fried food

opposite directions to separate them, that become stuck to the pan bottom as

then remove the pit with the tip of a BELL PEPPERS (CAPSICUMS). a result of cooking. The liquid, usually

spoon and discard. Ease a large spoon SEEDING Cut the peppers in half wine, stock, or water, is added to the pan
between the avocado flesh and the peel crosswise or lengthwise and, using your after the food has been removed. The
and gently scoop out the flesh. hands or a knife, remove the stem along liquid is heated over medium-high or
with the cluster of seeds. Trim away the high heat, and the cook stirs it with a
BELL PEPPERS (CAPSICUMS), PEELING remaining seeds and white membranes, wooden spoon or spatula and scrapes
Using tongs or a large fork, hold the or ribs, and cut the pepper to the size the pan bottom at the same time to free

whole peppers, one at a time, over the and shape indicated in a recipe. the browned bits. The flavorful liquid is

flame of a gas burner, turning as needed, reduced, letting it partially cook away or
until the skin is blistered and charred BLUE CHEESES Some cheeses are evaporate. The resulting sauce is called

black on all sides, 10-15 minutes. (This inoculated with the spores of special a reduction sauce or pan sauce.

113
DOUBLE BOILER A set of two pans, feels comfortable in the hand and has a needed. If desired, trim the remaining

one nested atop the other with room sturdy durable hinge. flesh from the pit as well.

for water to simmer in the lower pan.

Delicate foods and cream sauces are HARICOTS VERTS Small, slender MAYONNAISE This mixture of vinegar
placed in the top pan to heat them gently. green beans that are favored in France. or lemon juice, oil, and egg has become
Double boilers are also a good place to Delicately flavored, they are more elegant a common household condiment. But
keep foods warm without cooking them than other green beans and are also if you've never made and used home-
further, at least not too quickly. The top referred to as French green beans or filet made mayonnaise in a recipe, it will be
pan should not touch the water beneath, beans. Young, slender Blue Lake or other a revelation. It may be done in a food
and the water should not boil. green beans may be substituted. processor, but a small amount is easily

made by hand. See page 111.

EGG. RAW Eggs are sometimes used | Ll 1 1 EN N INC Cutting food into long,

raw in dressings and other preparations. thin matchstick strips called julienne. OLIVE OIL "Extra-virgin" is a term

Raw eggs run a risk of being infected with To julienne a vegetable such as a carrot, applied to the highest grade of olive oil,

salmonella or other bacteria, which can first cut the carrot into pieces of a desired which is extracted from the fruit without

lead to food poisoning. This risk is of length. (Ait the pieces into strips, then the use of heat or chemicals. It has a
most concern to small children, older stack the strips and slice them again to clear, greenish brown hue and a fine,

people, pregnant women, and anyone julienne them. fruity sometimes slightly peppery flavor.

with a compromised immune system. To julienne an herb such as basil, Its rich color and fruity fragrance and
If you have health and safety concerns, stack several leaves one on top of the taste make it the preferred choice for

do not consume raw egg, or seek out a other, roll up the stacked leaves length- salad dressings and marinades.

pasteurized egg product to replace it. wise, and slice them crosswise into thin

Eggs can also be made safe by heating strips. The strips are called a chiffonade. PAN C ETTA This flavorful Italian bacon

them to a temperature of 160°F (71°C). Lettuce and other greens may also be is made by rubbing a slab of pork belly

Note that coddled, poached, and soft stacked and sliced. with a mix of spices that may include

boiled eggs do not reach this temperature. cinnamon, cloves, or juniper. The slab

MANGOES. PEELING Always peel is rolled into a tight cylinder and cured
EMULSION An emulsion is a mixture mangoes before serving. Slit the thick, for at least 2 months. Because it is not

of ingredients that would ordinarily not sometimes leathery skin with a knife tip smoked, pancetta is more moist and
combine, such as oil and vinegar. For and pull it off in strips. silky than regular bacon.
more information, see page 111. To cut a mango, first peel it with a

knife, and then stand the mango on one PROSCIUTTO Neither smoked not-

GARLIC PRFSS This tool makes quick of its narrow edges, the stem end point- cooked, prosciutto is Italian ham that is

work of mincing peeled garlic cloves. A ing toward you. With a large, sharp knife, the seasoned, salt-cured, air-dried rear

garlic press is hinged and fitted with a cut down about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to one leg of pork. The best-known prosciutto
perforated hopper and a plunger that side of the stem, just grazing the side of comes from Parma in the Italian region

squeezes the garlic through the holes so the pit. Repeat with the other side of the of Emilia-Romagna, where it is aged
that it can be mixed more easily with fruit. Place the mango pieces cut side from 10 months to 2 years. It is called

other ingredients. Choose a press that down on a cutting board and slice as prosciutto di Parma and is labeled with

114
a five-pointed star seared into its side. quickly than table salt. It also has packed in olive oil, buy water- packet!
Best when served raw or lightly cooked, more flavor than table salt, and smaller tuna, drain it, put it in extra-virgin olive

its slightly salty flavor is a traditional amounts should be used to season oil, cover, and refrigerate for 2 or 3 days

accompaniment to sweet fresh fruits foods. Stores carry sea salt primarily before using.

and melons. from France, England, and the United

States. The most prized is the grayish- VINAIGRETI I The simplest, best-
ROMAINE, HEARTS OF The pale ivory Fleur du Sel from Brittany. known form of salad dressing is a

and crunchy inner leaves of a head of vinaigrette, a term that takes its name
romaine (cos) lettuce, referred to as the SERRANO CHILES Serranos are similar from vinegar but has broadened to

heart, are often favored for salads. to jalapehos in heat intensity, but the describe any blend of vinegar or lemon

serrano is sleeker in shape and has a juice with oil. See page 111.

SALAD SPINNER Consisting of a distinctly sharp taste. About 2 inches

lidded container with an inner colander- (5 cm) long, serranos may be green or
like hasket, a salad spinner makes short red. Most often, they are used fresh.

work of drying lettuce and other greens,

preventing the salad dressing from TOMATOES. PEELING AND SEEDING
becoming too watery. To peel and seed tomatoes, bring a large
saucepan three-fourths full of water to a

SALMON. SMOKED Rich in texture boil. Using a sharp knife, cut a shallow

and sweet in flavor, smoked salmon is a X in the blossom end of each tomato.
delicacy. There are two primary methods Immerse the tomatoes in the boiling

for smoking salmon. Hot-smoked water for 15-30 seconds, then, using a

salmon is smoked for 6-12 hours at a slotted spoon, remove and transfer them
temperature of 120°-180°F (49°-82°C). to a work surface. When cool enough to

This method also cooks the salmon and handle, slip off the skins. To seed, slice

ultimately yields a flaky texture. Cold- the tomatoes in half crosswise. Hold

smoked salmon is smoked anywhere each half over a sink or bowl and lightly

from 1 day to 3 weeks at a temperature squeeze and shake it to dislodge the

of 70°-90°F (2L°-32°C) and results in a seeds, using your finger if needed to

silken texture. Most recipes use cold- help ease them out.

smoked salmon, which is available

freshly sliced in delicatessens, specialty- TUNA, CANNED When shopping for

food stores, and well-stocked markets. canned tuna, look for oil-packed tuna

for the best flavor. If you can find an

SEA SALT Created by natural evapora- Italian brand of oil-packed tuna, choose
tion, sea salt is available in coarse or fine it. Italian canned tuna is often pink

grains that are shaped like hollow, flaky meat, from the belly of the fish, which is

pyramids. Due to its shape, it adheres moister than the more widely available
better to foods and dissolves more white-meat tuna. If you cannot find tuna

115
 INDEX
A Roasted Beets and Pecans with (Airly Endive, 81 Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, 42

Belgian endive, 105 using, 109

Almonds
varieties of, 107, 113
blanching, 1 13 Bell peppers
White Peaches with Almonds and Currants, 102 Couscous Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and (hard, 105. 1 1 I

Ambrosia, 22 Bell Peppers, 101 Chicken

Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, 42 Chicken, Avocado, and Mango Salad, 33
Anchoiade witii Radishes, Fennel, Celery, and
peeling, roasting, and seeding, 1 13 Cobb Salad, 13
( ,ii rots, 97
Roasted Red Peppers with Wild Rice and Persimmon, Honey-Glazed Chicken, and
Anchovies,, styles of, 93
Anchovies, 66 Peppery Greens, 58
Apples and Walnuts with Stilton Cheese, 62 poaching, 13. 85
Berries
Artichokes Nectarine, Melon, and Blackberry Salad with Tomato and Bread Salad with Deep-fried
Artichokes with Bread-and-Tomato Stuffing, 37 Fresh Mint, 54 Chicken Bites, 46

trimming, 37 Bread Chicories, 7-1. 105

Arugula Artichokes with Bread-and-Tomato Stuffing, 37 Chiles

about. 105 cubes, dried, 46 preparing. 53
Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts and Arugula, 70 Tomato and Bread Salad with Deep-fried serrano. 1 15
Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter Chicken Bites, 46 Thai, 53
Greens, 78 Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts and Arugula, 70 Cilantro, 105
Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and
Citrus fruits. See also individual fruits
Arugula, 82
c juicing. 1 13
Asparagus
v aesar Salad, 10 Mixed Citrus with Red Onions and Escarole, 74
Asparagus and Smoked Salmon with Tarragon
sectioning. 22
Cream, 29 Capers, 98
zesting, 86
trimming, 29 Carrots
Cobb Salad, 13
Avocados Anchoiade with Radishes, Fennel, Celery, and
Carrots, 97 Corn
Chicken, Avocado, and Mango Salad, 33
Oranges and Carrots with Pistachios, 86 Corn and Tomato Salsa on Crispy Corn
peeling, pitting, and ripening, 113
Thai Style Grilled Beef Salad, 53 Tortillas, 50
cutting off the cob. 50
Cauliflower, Green, Rigatoni Salad with Capers,
B
Saffron, and, 90 Couscous
Baby Spinach with Ginger-Glazed Scallops, 34
about. 101
Celery
Bacon. See also Pancetta Couscous Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and
Anchoiade with Radishes, Fennel, Celery, and
Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and Bell Peppers, 101
Carrots, 97
Arugula, 82
Apples and Walnuts with Stilton Cheese, 62 Cucumbers
Warm Potato Salad with Balsamic Vinegar, 65
fu key
i and Celery Salad with Dried Cherries, 85 Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, 42
Basil Warm Potato Salad with Balsamic Vinegar, 65 Tabbouleh, 45
Insalata Caprese, 21
Celery root Curly endive
Pesto, 49
Celery Root Remoulade, 18 about, 105
Tomato and Bread Salad with Deep-fried
preparing, 18 Roasted Beets and Pecans with Curly Endive, HI
Chicken Bites, 46
Turkey and Celery Salad with Dried Cherries, 8!

Beans. See Fava beans; Green beans

Champagne Vinaigrette, Green Herb Salad with, 26
Beef Salad, Thai-Style Grilled, 53
Cheese. See also individual cheeses
D
Beets Apples and Walnuts with Stilton Cheese, 62 Deglazing, 1 13

cooking with, 81 Cobb Salad, 13 Dill, 105

17
 1 1

Green 1 lerb Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette, 2d Mushrooms and Fennel with Parmesan Crisps, 61
breast, cooking, 78 (livens. See also individual greens Mustard greens
Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter
choosing and preparing, 108 about, 105
Greens. 78 matching herbs with, 1(17 Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter

varieties of, 105 Greens, 78

1

II N
Cobb Salad, 13
Herbs Nectarine, Melon, and Blackberry Salad with
Iwrd-boiled, 13
about. 105 Fresh Mint, 54
Salade Nicoise, 17
choosing, preparing, and storing, 108 Nuts. See also individual nuts
Swiss Chard with Pancetta and Hard-boiled
Green Herb Salad with Champagne in salads, 107
Eggs, 69
Vinaigrette, 26 toasting, 109
Hscarole julienning, 114
about, 74, 105 in salads, 26, 105, 107 o
Mixed Citrus with Red Onions and Escarole, 74
Oils

choosing, 107
Insalata Caprese, 21
olive, 42, 114
l-ava beans
walnut, 70
Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Zucchini
Ribbons, 30 Olives
Julienning, 1 14
preparing, 30 Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, 42
oil. 42, 114
[

Salade Nicoise, 17
Anchoiade with Radishes, Fennel, Celery, and Lentils
Tomatoes with Anchovies and Olives, 93
Carrots, 97 Lentil Salad with Mozzarella and Prosciutto, 94
Mushrooms and Fennel with Parmesan Oranges
types of, 94
Crisps, 61 Ambrosia, 22
lettuces. Sec also (livens; Romaine lettuce
blood, 77
1'isli. See Anchovies; Salmon; Trout; lima Chicken, Avocado, and Mango Salad, 33 Mixed Citrus with Red Onions and Escarole, 74
Fruits. Sec also individual fruits Green Herb Salad with Champagne Oranges and Carrots with Pistachios, 86
Ambrosia, 22 Vinaigrette, 26
Poached Red Trout on Watercress with Blood
dried, 85 Mushrooms and Fennel with Parmesan Orange Dressing, 77
Nectarine, Melon, and Blackberry Salad with (.lisps, 61

Fresh Mint, 54 Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and P

preventing discoloring of, 109 Arugula, 82
Pancetta. See also Bacon
in salads, 107 Spring Lettuces with Broiled Goat Cheese, 38
about, 114
Thai-Style Grilled Beet Salad, 53
Swiss Chard with Pancetta and Hard-boiled
G varieties of, 105
Eggs, 69
I imes, 33
Parmesan cheese
(loot cheese about, 10
Spring Lettuces with Broiled Goat Cheese, 38
M Mushrooms and Fennel with Parmesan
styles of, 38 Mangoes Crisps, 61
( !hicken, Avocado, and Mango Salad, 33
Pasta
peeling, 1 14
( ireek Salad with Cherry tomatoes, 42 Couscous Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and
Mayonnaise, 1 1
Bell Peppers, 101
(liven beans
Mixed Citrus with Red Onions and Escarole, 74 Rigatoni Salad with Green Cauliflower, Capers,
Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Zucchini
and Saffron, 90
Ribbons, 30 Mo iiiclla cheese
haricots verts, 1 14 fresh, 2 Peaches
Salade Nicoise, 17 Insalata Caprese, 21 peeling, 102

Slender Green Beans in Pesto, 49 Lentil Salad with Mozzarella and Prosciutto, 94 White Peaches with Almonds and Currants, 102

118
 >

Peas, Favas, Green Beans, and Zucchini I'oi till:i

Ribbons, 30 II llll
Saffron. 90
I

Pecans ( hang
Salad dressings
Roasted Beets and Pecans with Curly Endive, 81 Tuna
categories of, 107, 111
toasting, 109 canned, 1 15
ingredients for, 107
Persimmons making, 111 Rice Salad with Tuna and Capers. C
)H

Persimmon, Honey-Glazed Chicken, and Salade Nicoise, 17

tossing salad with, 109
Peppery Greens, 58 Turkey
Salade Nicoise, I 7
varieties of, 58 Cobb Salad, 13
Salmon
Pesto Turkey and Celery Satad with Dried Cherries, 85
Asparagus and Smoked Salmon with Tarragon
Slender Green Beans in Pesto, 49
Cream, 29 V
for vegetables, 49
choosing, 82
\ egetables. See also ii

Pineapple Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and

preventing discoloring of. 37. 109
Ambrosia, 22 Arugula, 82
in salads, 107
preparing, 22 smoked, 115
thinly slicing, 61
Pistachios, Oranges and Carrots with, 86 Salsa, Com and Tomato, on (
irispy ( lorn
Vinaigrettes, 111. 115
Poached Red Trout on Watercress with Blood Tortillas, 50
Vinegars
Orange Dressing, 77 Salt, sea, 1 15
balsamic, 65
Potatoes Scallops, Ginger-Glazed, Baby Spinach with. 34
varieties of, 107
Potato Salad, 14
Seeds
Salade Nic,oise, 17
in salads, 107
w
varieties of, 14
toasting, 109 Walnuts
Warm Potato Salad with Balsamic Vinegar, 65
Slender Green Beans in Pesto, 49 Apples and Walnuts with Stilton Cheese, 62
Prosciutto Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts and Arugula, 70
Spinach, Baby, with Ginger-Glazed Scallops. 34
about, 114 oil, 70
Lentil Salad with Mozzarella and Prosciutto, 94 Spring Lettuces with Broiled Goat Cheese, 38
pairing, 62
Swiss chard toasting, 109

R about, 69 Warm Potato Salad with Balsamic \

Swiss Chard with Pancetta and Hard-boiled Watercress

Radicchio
Eggs, 69 about, 105
about, 105
Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter Cobb Salad, 13

Greens, 78 I Duck Breast with Radicchio and Bitter

Greens, 78
Radishes, Anchoiade with Fennel, Celery, Tabbouleh, 45
Persimmon, Honey-Glazed Chicken, and
Carrots, and, 97 Thai-Style Grilled Beet Salad, 53
Peppery Greens, 58
Rice Salad with Tuna and Capers, 98 Tomatoes Poached Red Trout on Watercress with Blood
Rigatoni Salad with Green Cauliflower, Capers, Artichokes with Bread-and-Tomato Stuffing, 37 Orange Dressing, 77
and Saffron, 90 Corn and Tomato Salsa on Crispy Corn
White Peaches with Almonds and Currants, 102
Roasted Beets and Pecans with Curly Endive, 81 Tortillas, 50
Wild rice
Couscous Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and
Roasted Red Peppers with Wild Rice and about, 66
Bell Peppers, 101
Anchovies, 66 Roasted Red Peppers with Wild Rice and
Greek Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, 42
Roasted Salmon with Crumbled Bacon and Anchovies, 66
Insalata Caprese, 21
Arugula, 82
peeling and seeding, 115
z
Romaine lettuce Tabbouleh, 45
Caesar Salad, 10 Tomato and Bread Salad with Deep-fried
Cobb Salad, 13 Chicken Bites, 46 Zucchini Ribbons, Favas, (

hearts of, 115 Tomatoes with Anchovies and Olives, 93 ami, 30

119
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and Ann Hailey, indexer Ken DellaPenta; and Barnhurst.

Production Designers Lorna Strutt and Joan Olson, p. cm. — (Williams-Sonoma collection)
1. Salads. I. Williams, Chuck ll. Title
Williams-Sonoma Collection Salad was
III Williams-Sonoma collection (New York, NY)
conceived and produced by Weldon Owen Inc.,

814 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, TX740 B653 2001

California 94133, in collaboration with 641. 8'3— dc21

Williams-Sonoma, 3250 Van Ness Avenue, 2001042871

San Francisco, California 94109, ISBN 0-7432-2440-X

A NOTE ON WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

All recipes include customary U.S. and metric measurements. Metric conversions are based on
a standard developed for these books and have been rounded off. Actual weights may vary.
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ILLIAMS-SONOMA

Salads bring out the best in fresh seasonal ingredients, whether they are

delicate spring lettuces paired with soft goat cheese or crisp autumn
apples tossed with toasted pecans.

Williams -Sonoma Collection Salad offers more than 40 easy-to-follow

recipes, including both classic favorites and fresh new ideas. In these

pages, you'll find inspiring salads designed to suit occasions throughout

the year —from an informal summer picnic to an elegant dinner with

friends. This vividly photographed, full-color recipe collection, appealing

to both novice and experienced cooks, will become an essential addition

to your kitchen bookshelf.

x
"It is my hope that the recipes in this book will inspire
vnu to get into the kitchen and start cooking!"

dJajDdz-l/v^ itli GuwSr"

••

ISBN 0-7432-2440-X WILLIAMS-SONOMA

5 1 695> SKU #3977436

03977436
9 780743"224406 111
Printed in Singapore. SALAD