Guidelne, Safety and Tips & Tricks

Naranmandakh Batdorj
Uurtsaikh Altansukh
Dulguun Munkh-Ochir
Araash Ider
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
OVERVIEW OF 3D
PRINTING

3D PRINTER SAFETY
GUIDELINE

ANATOMY OF 3D PRINTER

THE BEGINNING TO PRINTING

MATERIAL GUIDE

PREPARE YOUR 3D MODELS

APPENDIX
 OVERVIEW OF 3D
PRINTING
3D PRINTING TECHNOLOGY
3D printing or additive manufacturing is a process of

making three dimensional solid objects from a digital file.

This process is the opposite of subtractive manufacturing

which is cutting out / hollowing out a piece of metal or

plastic with for instance a milling machine. 3D printing

enables you to produce complex shapes using less material

than traditional manufacturing methods.

3D SOFTWARE
There are many different software tools available. From

industrial grade to open source. We will recommend

beginners to start with Tinkercad or if you familiar with

AutoCAD it will be massive advantage. Before printing 3D

model files should be converted into printable file e.g. .STL

or .OBJ by slicing software. When your file is sliced, it’s

ready for your 3D printer. Feeding the file to your printer

can be done via USB, SD or Wi-Fi. Your sliced file is now

ready to be 3D printed layer by layer

TYPES OF 3D PRINTER
STEREOLITHOGRAPHY (SLA)
SLA 3D printers use a laser to cure liquid resin into
hardened plastic in a process called
photopolymerization. SLA resin 3D printers have
become vastly popular for their ability to produce
high-accuracy, isotropic, and watertight prototypes
and parts in a range of advanced materials with fine
features and smooth surface finish. Stereolithography is ideal for :
Rapid prototyping & Functional prototyping

Concept modeling & Short-run production

Dental applications & Jewelry prototyping

FUSED DEPOSITION MODELING (FDM) and casting

Fused deposition modeling (FDM) is the most widely

used type of 3D printing at the consumer level. FDM 3D
printers work by extruding thermoplastic filaments,
such as ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), PLA
(Polylactic Acid), through a heated nozzle, melting the
material and applying the plastic layer by layer to a
build platform. Each layer is laid down one at a time
until the part is complete. FDM 3D printers are well-
suited for basic proof-of-concept models, as well as
Fused deposition modeling is ideal
quick and low-cost prototyping of simple parts, such for:
as parts that might typically be machined. Basic proof-of-concept models

Simple prototyping

SELECTIVE LASER SINTERING (SLS)

Selective laser sintering (SLS) 3D printers use a high-
power laser to sinter small particles of polymer
powder into a solid structure. The unfused powder
supports the part during printing and eliminates the
need for dedicated support structures. Parts
produced with SLS printing have excellent mechanical
characteristics, with strength resembling that of
injection-molded parts. SLS is a popular choice
among engineers for functional prototyping, and a
cost-effective alternative to injection molding for
limited-run or bridge manufacturing
Selective laser sintering is ideal
for:
Functional prototyping

End-use parts

Short-run, bridge, or custom

manufacturing
3D PRINTER SAFETY
GUIDELINES
The following is a list of safety precautions that need to be

considered when using a 3D printer:

If the power cord is damaged, the plug is scratched, etc.,

the cord must be replaced before plugging in.

Do not move printer during printing process or suddenly,

deliberately.

When 3D printers are running, users should not congregate

around the printing operation to minimize the inhalation of

particulates being created.

Eating, drinking, applying cosmetics, chewing gum, or

handling contact lenses in rooms that contain 3D printing

operations must be prohibited. Users must wash their hands

thoroughly after working with 3D printers

All work surfaces must be cleaned by a wet method as

sweeping and other dry methods may create airborne

particles.

Whenever possible, 3D printers that utilize resins and/or

corrosives should be placed in areas designed as labs

If the printer nozzle jams, turn off the printer and allow it to

ventilate before removing the cover or contact trained or

authorized person

Wash hands thoroughly after working with 3D printers.

Do not touch the nozzles or the printing plate during

operation and heating of the printer, as the nozzles are

heated to 210-260 ° C and the printing plate is heated to

50 ° C-60 ° C, which can cause burns.

3D PRINTER HAZARDS
Hazard Awareness
Two general hazards should be noted when working with fused

deposition modeling (FDM) printers: mechanical hazards, such as

hot extruders and motors; and emissions in the form of

outgassing and ultra-fine particles produced during the filament

melting and extrusion process.

Mechanical Hazards
Specific details on mechanical hazards of FDM printers are given

below:

Several components of FDM printers present hazards. For

FDM printers, the heated print bed can reach temperatures

of 100 °C, and the heater block and nozzle on the extruder

can reach temperatures of 270 °C. Additionally, the motors

driving the extruder and the axis movements can also be hot.

FDM printers have many components that move quickly and

with relatively little clearance to other components on the

printers.

Tools used to remove prints from the print bed are often

sharp.

Risk Assessment
Mechanical Hazards

Touching the heater block, nozzle, heated print bed, or

motors while the printer is powered on and preheated could

result in minor burns.

Touching the printer while the extruder and axis carriages

are moving could result in the skin being caught or pinched.

Sharp removal tools could cut skin.

Anatomy of 3D Printer
3D Printers consist of the following major systems:

Mechanical Components

Print Bed - The print bed is the surface that

your objects are printed on to. Typically it will

consist of a sheet of glass, a heating element,

and some kind of surface on top to help the

plastic stick

Heated & Non-heated - Most print beds are

heated in order to prevent the object from

warping while it is being printed. Due to

thermal contraction, the plastic will shrink

slightly as it cools. This causes the object to

warp upwards around the edges and peel off

the bed. Heated beds keep the bottom of the

object warm, in order to prevent this

Bed Surface- The bed surface helps the plastic

stick to the bed during printing but also allows it

to be removed easily when printing is done

Bed Leveling - Many printers have some kind

of a system for automatically making sure that

the bed is level with the nozzle. Some do not,

though, and must be calibrated by hand

Filament - This is the plastic that's consumed

by the printer. It comes on a spool. Printers

use two different sizes of filament, 1.75 mm

and 3 mm. There are a variety of different

materials.
Extruder - The extruder is the core of the
printer. It is where the plastic gets drawn in,

melted, and pushed out. It is essentially a

fancy hot glue gun. It is small, but it is where

most of the printer’s technology is located.

The extruder consists of two parts; the hot

end and the cold end. The cold end has a

motor that draws the filament in and pushes it

through. The hot end is where the filament

gets melted and squirted out

Direct Drive - the hot end and cold end are

connected together, one on top of the other.

The filament goes straight down through the

cold end and into the hot end

Bowden Extruder - the hot end and cold

end are separated. The cold end will be

stationary and bolted somewhere onto the

printer’s frame.

Hobbed Gear - This gear bites the filament

and pushes it down through the hot end

Hot End - melts the filament for extrusion and

helps maintain a consistent and accurate

temperature for successful prints. A hot end

that reaches higher temperatures means that

you can print with a wider range of materials

Heater Cartridge - It heats the plastic. It is

simply a high power resistor. Almost all modern

printers use cartridge heaters, but many older

printers used coils of nichrome wire

Thermistor/Thermocouple - These are
all various types of sensors for

determining the temperature of the hot

end. They are essentially electronic

thermometers.

Nozzle - Simply piece with small hole for

the melted filament to come out. Nozzles

are interchangeable, and come in various

sizes; 0.4 mm is normal, while you might

use a smaller nozzle for finer detail or a

larger nozzle to print faster.

Layer Cooling Fan - fan cools off the

plastic immediately after it is deposited

by the nozzle. It helps the object hold its

shape. The slicer will turn this fan on and

off under different circumstances,

depending on what material you are

printing.

Cartesian Printer - Cartesian printers

move one or two motors along each of

the X, Y, and Z axes and the name was

derived from the Cartesian coordinates

system. They typically have a rectangular

build area and the printers themselves

tend to have a cube-like shape

Delta Printer - Delta printers have three

arms that come together in the center to

suspend the extruder above the build

area. Deltas also use a Cartesian

coordinates system to move around in,

but instead of moving one motor per axis

at a time
End Stops - The end stops are how the
printer knows where it is. They are little

switches that get pushed whenever an

axis moves to the end. This is how the

printer finds it’s starting point before

printing.

Threaded Rods - These are usually used

on the printer’s Z axis. They rotate, thus

forcing nuts to move up and down.

Inexpensive printers will use simple

threaded steel rods, which are essentially

extra long bolts.

Belt - Belts move things. The X and Y

motors have sprockets that drive the

belts. Most printers also have some way

of adjusting the tension on the belts

Stepper Motors - Unlike regular DC

motors, which rotate continuously when

given power, stepper motors rotate in

increments. This gives them precise

control over their position

Enclosure - Enclosures for 3D printing

are used for safety. There are moving

parts and heating elements that users

will want to protect themselves from.

Electrical Components

Power Supply - This takes the 120V AC

electricity from the wall and converts it to low

voltage DC power for your printer to use (some

machines run 12 volt systems, while others run

24 volt systems. This becomes critical if you are

going to replace components - especially your

heater cartridge or hot end. Make sure you

order the appropriate parts) .

Motherboard/Controller Board - the brain of

the printer. It takes the commands given to it by

your computer (in the form of G-Code) and

orchestrates their execution. The motherboard

contains a microcontroller (essentially a tiny,

self contained computer) and all the circuitry

needed for running the motors, reading the

sensors, and talking to your computer.

Stepper Drivers - These chips are responsible

for running the stepper motors. They fire the

coils of the motor in sequence, causing it to

move in increments. Many motherboards have

the stepper drivers built in, but some also have

them in modules that can be unplugged.

Screens and User Interfaces - Some printers

have an LCD screen so they can be controlled

directly without hooking them up to a computer.

These can be basic black and white displays

The Beginning to Printing
Preparing Models

3D models need to be prepared for 3D printing using a slicing

software that translates the model into machine instructions.

3D models are imported into a slicer, which then virtually “slices”

the model into layers. The resulting files consist of G-code, which
is essentially a long list of instructions followed by the 3D printer

to build the model.

G-code is the “language” of 3D printers and CNC machines.

These files contain important parameters required to produce a

model, such as printing speed and temperature, wall thickness,

infill percentage, layer height, and many others. In other words,

3D printing is impossible without G-code files!

Supports

Support structures are considered to be a necessary evil in 3D

printing. On the one hand, they are absolutely necessary for

models with nasty overhangs or bridges. On the other hand, they

increase material costs, add more post-processing work and can

damage the model’s surface.

Another of the main functions of a slicer is to generate support

material. The slicer lets you choose where to put supports and

how dense you want them to be. Some slicers even offer users

the ability to choose different types of support structure for

easier removal or stability.

Preparing the Printer

A couple of things always need to be done on a 3D printer

before it’s ready to print:

Loading Filament: Printer should be stable position then place

filament on holder which filament should be free to rotate. Take

the filament out and cut a sharp angle on the end of the strand

to help it enter the extruder.

To feed filament, squeeze the extruder arm lever and placing the

filament in between toothed extruder gear and idler pulley. With

the arm still pressed, push the filament through by hand slowly.

Bed Leveling: In order for the printer to deposit filament and

build the object successfully, the build platform must be level.

Depending on the machine, leveling can be either manual or

automatic. Bed leveling is very important because, if the print

bed is too far away from the nozzle, the first and the most

important layer won’t stick to the bed, causing the print to

automatically fail.
Preparing bed adhesion: Proper bed adhesion is critical to
every FDM 3D print. Without adhesion, prints dislodge before

being fully formed, leaving a bird’s nest of mis-extruded plastic .

Oil, dust, and other grime can interfere with your prints grabbing

onto the print bed. Before every print, make sure that your print

surface is clean. If it’s not, a wipe-down with some isopropyl

alcohol usually does the trick. Adhesive aids exist for holding

down 3D prints. These include PVA glue (regular household glue

stick), Kapton tape, and blue printer’s tape. With the tapes, cover

the build plate with a single, flat layer and replace it

3D Printing First layer Guide:

3D printing the first layer is essential for every FDM 3D print, as it

forms the foundation on which more plastic is to be laid. If the

first layer adheres poorly to the print surface, the print may

dislodge before it’s completed, leading to a failure. Over-

adhesion should also be avoided, as prints will become difficult

to remove. Every first layer is about striking the balance between

print stability and ease of removal.

Set first layer print and bed temperature, These settings change

the temperature at which your 3D printer prints the first layer. A

higher temperature will allow the plastic to melt better and

adhere to the bed, so try bumping up the nozzle and bed

temperatures by around 5 °C each.

First layer print speed setting changes the speed at which the

first layer is extruded. Printing slower will allow more time for the

plastic to melt, having an effect similar to raising the print

temperature.
Post-Processing 3D Prints:
Almost every 3D print requires some sort of post-processing after

it’s printed. Post-processing can improve a printed part’s

aesthetics, but it can also improve the strength and other

properties. Once you discover the beauty of post-processing,

you’ll never want to leave your 3D prints untouched again.

Support removal is the most basic form of post-processing.

Usually, support removal doesn’t require much effort, unless there

are supports in tight corners or other hard-to-reach places.

Depending on what they’re made of, supports can be insoluble

or soluble.

FDM 3D prints can have a slightly rough surface, and sanding is

the easiest way to smooth it.

After printing, a part might have a few blobs left on its surface,

or there might be some nasty marks remaining after you’ve

removed supports. The ideal way to remove such blemishes is by

using sandpaper.

Relationship between printing speed and precision: FDM

printer will print a smaller 3D model in few minutes but it will take

many hours when printing a large model. Although, we can

increase layer height using slicer software which can help

reduce time to print which will decrease the quality of the

model.

Also, we can change the printing speed during the printing

process from 0% to 200%. Printing speed would depend on the

filament material and the size of the model. Lower speed will

lead to a higher quality model.

How to store Filaments(Material):

Proper material storage is key to good print results. An

improperly stored material may become brittle, snap easier, and

change colors. Alternatively, controlling the humidity is important

for reliably printing materials that absorb moisture from the

environment.

Optimal Storage Condition

To keep your filaments in prime condition store them:

in a re-sealable bag

out of direct sunlight

in a dry and cool location

The optimal storage temperature for PLA, Tough PLA, CPE, CPE+,

PC, Nylon, PP, TPU 95A, and Breakaway is between -20 °C to +30

°C. Store ABS between 15 °C and 25 °C and PVA between 10

°C and 30 °C. Furthermore a relative humidity of below 50% is

recommended for PVA, Nylon and TPU 95A. If these materials are

exposed to a higher humidity the quality of the material can be

affected.

Identifying poorly stored filament

Incorrectly stored materials collect dust and absorb moisture.

This leads to extrusion problems and loss of print quality. In

addition, moisture absorption can cause popping sounds while

printing. PVA and Nylon are particularly sensitive to moisture and

suffer damage faster than other materials. Transparent Nylon will

look more milky and black Nylon will be less shiny.

PVA exposed to moisture will become soft and pliable and

maybe even sticky.

PVA that is too dry it may become rigid, which could also cause

problems while printing.

To check the quality of PLA, try to snap the filament. If the PLA

filament snaps easily, it is too brittle for use and should be

replaced.
Material Guide
ABS(Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

This material was one of the first plastics to be used with

industrial 3D printers. Many years later, ABS is still a very

popular material thanks to its low cost and good mechanical

properties. ABS is known for its toughness and impact

resistance, allowing you to print durable parts that will hold

up to extra usage and wear. LEGO building blocks are made

from this material

PROS CONS
Low Cost Heavy warping

Good impact and wear Needs heated bed or heated

resistance chamber

Less oozing and stringing Produces a pungent odor

gives models smoother while printing

finish Parts tend to shrink leading

Good heat resistance to dimensional inaccuracy

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated bed, 95 - 110 °C, Enclosure recommended

Build Surface: Kapton tape, ABS Slurry

Extruder: 220 - 250°C, No Special Hot-end Required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Not Required

PLA(Polylactic Acid)

It is the default filament of choice for most extrusion-based

3D printers because it can be printed at a low temperature

and does not require a heated bed. it is easy to print, very

inexpensive, and creates parts that can be used for a wide

variety of applications. It is also one of the most

environmentally friendly filaments on the market today

PROS CONS
Low Cost Low heat resistance

Stiff and good strength Can ooze and may need

Good dimensional cooling fans

accuracy Filament can get brittle and

Good shelf life break

Not suitable for outdoors

(sunlight exposure)

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Optional, 45 - 60°C

Build Surface: Painter's Tape, Glue stick, Glass plate

Extruder: 190 - 220°C, No Special Hot-end Required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Required, Fan Speed: 100%

PVA(Polyvinyl Alcohol)

This material is a soft and biodegradable polymer that is

highly sensitive to moisture. When exposed to water, PVA will

actually dissolve, which makes it a very useful support

structure material for 3D printing. When printing extremely

complex shapes or ones with partially enclosed cavities, PVA

supports can be used and easily removed by dissolving in

warm water. Standard supports may have been difficult to

print or remove in these situations.

PROS CONS
Great water dissolvable Moisture sensitive

support material Airtight storage containers

No special solvents required

required Greater chances of clogging

No additional hardware if the nozzle is left hot when

required not extruding

Expensive

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Optional, 45 - 60°C

Build Surface: Painter's Tape, PEI

Extruder: 185 - 220°C, No Special Hot-end Required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Required

Nylon

This material is a popular material in the plastics industry,

known for its toughness and flexibility. Nylon filaments

typically require extruder temperatures near 250 ºC. Many

printers do not include a hot-end that can safely reach 250

ºC, so these lower-temperature versions can be useful and

potentially save you from needing to upgrade your hot-end.

One big challenge with Nylon filaments is that they readily

absorb moisture

PROS CONS
Tough and partially flexible Prone to Warping

High impact resistance Air-tight storage required to

No unpleasant odor while prevent water absorption

printing Improperly dried filaments

Good abrasion resistance can cause printing defects

Not suitable for moist and

humid environments

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Required, 70 - 90°C

Build Surface: Glue Stick, PEI

Extruder: 225 - 265°C, All-Metal Hot-end may required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Not Required

PETG(modified Polyethylene Terephthalate)

PETG is a Glycol Modified version of Polyethylene

Terephthalate (PET), which is commonly used to manufacture

water bottles. It is a semi-rigid material with good impact

resistance, but it has a slightly softer surface which makes it

prone to wear. The material also benefits from great thermal

characteristics, allowing the plastic to cool efficiently with

almost negligible warpage.

PROS CONS
Glossy and smooth surface Poor bridging characteristics

finish Can produce thin hairs on

Adheres well to the bed the surface from stringing

with negligible warping

Mostly odorless while

printing

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Recommended, 75 - 90°C

Build Surface: Painter's Tape, Glue Stick

Extruder: 230 - 250°C, No Special Hot-end Required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Required

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate (PC) is a high strength material intended for

tough environments and engineering applications. It has

extremely high heat deflection, and impact resistance.

Polycarbonate also has a high glass transition temperature of

150° Celsius. This means it will maintain its structural integrity

up to that temperature, making it suitable for use in high-

temperature applications.

PROS CONS
Impact resistant Requires very high print

High heat resistance temperatures

Naturally transparent Prone to warping

Bendable without breaking High tendency to ooze while

printing

Absorbs moisture from the

air which can cause print

defects

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Required, 80 - 120°C

Build Surface: PEI, Glue Stick, Commercial Adhesive

Extruder: 260 - 310°C, All-Metal Hot-end Required

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Not Required

Flexible

Flexible filaments are made of Thermoplastic Elastomers

(TPE) which are a blend of hard plastic and rubber. As the

name suggests, this material is elastic in nature allowing the

plastic to be stretched and flexed easily. There are several

types of TPE, with Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) being

the most commonly used among 3D printing filaments.

PROS CONS
Flexible and Soft Difficult to Print

Excellent vibration Poor bridging characteristics

dampening Possibility of blobs and

Long shelf life stringing

Good impact resistance May not work well on

Bowden Extruder

Hardware Requirements:
Bed: Heated Bed Optional, 45 - 60°C

Build Surface: PEI, Painter's Tape

Extruder: 225 - 245°C, Direct Drive Extruder Recommended

Cooling: Part Cooling Fan Required

Prepare your 3D Model
Where do i find 3D Model that can ready to print?

There are 3D Models and .stl, .obj files available on Websites

in paid and free formats. Luckily, High quality 3D Models are

uploaded on these sites which is free to download.

Thingiverse

Pinshape

Youimagine

Myminifactory

Cults3D

CGTrader

How to make my own 3D Model?

3D Models are created by using 3D Modeling Software,

usually referred to as CAD(Computer Aided Design)

software. Also, 3D Model can made by using

photogrammetry, 3D Scanner or Simple Camera. If you do

not have 3D CAD software, you can use web based online

software(TinkerCAD).

Here are some examples of popular 3D Modeling Software:

AutoCAD

SolidWorks

Autodesk Inventor

Autodesk Fusion 360

Sketchup

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