scintillation

noun: a flash or
sparkle of light
Shown in: A variety of yarn leftovers pulled Yarn prep: There’s a discussion of yarn usage and ends
minimization at the end of the pattern, but the short version
out of my scrap bin. I have labeled one of is these take so very little yarn that you can just start your
the pictures with as much information as cast on in the middle of your yarn (and so have fewer ends
I have on each of the yarns. Each star took to deal with). To do that, reel off 20 [25, 30] yards of yarn
(read the section on yarn after the charts if you need help
between 10 and 30 yards of yarn. with that). Tie a slip knot in the middle of your yarn. Wind
each side into a small ball.
Gauge and sizing: My stars range in size
Cast on: Staring in the middle of your strand of yarn, and
from 1-5 inches across. They were knit at a using a figure 8 cast on, Judy’s Magic Cast On, or another
gauge between 6 stitches per inch (for the cast on that lets you start in the middle of a piece of fabric,
worsted-weight yarns) and 9 stitches per cast on 100 [140, 180] stitches (50 [70, 90] on each side).
inch (for the fingering-weight yarns). I find it easiest to cast on over two circular needles, but
you can also use DPNs or straights (as long as they’re long
These are adorable at any size, so gauge enough to hold the number of stitches you need).
isn’t nearly as important as usual. But it is Orient your knitting: Your cast on has a smooth side (the
side that was facing you as you cast on) and a bumpy side
important that you knit tightly, so the stuff- (the side that was facing away from you as you cast on).
ing doesn’t show through when you fill Arrange your knitting so that the bumpy side is facing you
your star. and your working yarn is off to the left. With the knitting in
this orientation, slide the stitches on the bottom needle onto
Needles: Use the smallest needles you can the cable of the bottom circular needle (if you cast on with
comfortably manage with your yarn. You two circular needles) or onto a piece of scrap yarn (if you
cast on with straights or DPNs). The goal is to hold those
want a tight fabric to keep the stuffing
stitches somewhere safe (and flexible!) and keep them out of
from showing through. the way while you work the top half of your star.
I can’t tell you exactly what size that will This is one of those things that’s much easier to see than
describe, so take a look at the pictures in the next section to
be (especially as you can make these in see what this looks like.
any weight of yarn you want and you’ll use
Side one: With the bumpy side of your cast on facing out,
a different size needle for bulky than for bring the two ends of your knitting together, place marker,
fingering), but I can tell you that tighter is and join for working in the round.
better. I made mine on everything from a There are charts for stockinette, reverse stockinette, and
ribbed stars. Just pick the one that matches your cast on
worsted to a fingering yarn, and the biggest count and has the fabric you want. It’s fine to work one type
needle I used was 2.5 mm. You may well of fabric on side one and the other on side two if you want.
need something else, but start small and Work the appropriate Side 1 Chart once. 5 stitches remain.
experiment from there. Remove marker, break yarn (leaving a tail to weave in), and
draw the yarn through remaining stitches (I think it looks
Don’t hurt yourself, but tighter is better for best if you go through each stitch at least twice).
this project! Take a moment to weave in your end now (you won’t have
access to the inside of the star for much longer, so it’s good
to do it now).
Side two: Flip your star over (so the wrong side of the fabric
you just created for side one is facing you).
It’s time to use the stitches you set aside earlier, so slide
them back on to your needles and place a marker to indicate
the start of your round.
Work the appropriate Side 2 Chart (again, you can use the
one for whichever fabric you want, it doesn’t have to be the
same fabric as on side one) until 10 stitches remain on your Notes: There are pictures of the star at various stages on
needles (so don’t work the very last row of the chart quite the next pages. They show what it looks like as you’re
yet). working.
Blocking: I strongly recommend blocking your star now The sizes use different charts. Be sure you’re using the
before you stuff it. Just soak it (right on the needles if they’re charts for the size you want to make. You can mix and
metal or plastic, on a piece of scrap yarn if your needles are match textures (stockinette, reverse stockinette, ribbed) on
wooden or shouldn’t get wet), squeeze out the excess water, one star if you want.
smooth it out flat, and let it dry.
And if you’re looking for ideas of what to do with them?
I’ve included a blocking template at the end if you want to Well that’s limited only by your imagination!
pin your star out precisely, but even if you just soak it and
lay it flat to dry, the end result will be much cuter if you • String them on ribbon or twine and use them as
take the time to do this (and you don’t want to do it once it’s bunting or a garland.
stuffed, so now is the time). • Bring a branch inside and hang them from it.
Stuffing: Fill the star with the stuffing of your choice, • Make a mobile.
pushing it in through the opening at the middle of the star. I
use a pencil or the back end of a knitting needle to push the • Pop one in a card and send it to someone who could
filling in and get it all the way down to the points. You can use a little extra love—they’re light and squish
experiment and see how firmly you like yours stuffed. down flat, so they’re easy to mail.
I filled mine with spinning fiber (but you could use poly- • Use them as placecard holders or party favors.
ester stuffing if that’s what you have on hand). Lavender, • Add some lavender or rosemary and tuck one in
chamomile, rosemary or cloves would smell great too. You your drawer.
could even do catnip and turn it into a cat toy! If I’m using
something scented, I like to put in a little stuffing, then put • Make one to match a baby sweater you’re giving as
in the scented stuff, then the rest of the stuffing. a gift.
If you knit tightly enough, you could also fill the star with • Add some catnip and use one as a cat toy.
rice or dried beans to make a microwaveable hand warmer. • Fill them with dried beans or rice and use them as
Finishing: Work the last row of the appropriate Side 2 Chart. microwaveable hand warmers.
5 stitches remain.
• Add a rattle insert and use one as a baby toy.
Remove marker, draw the yarn through remaining stitches
(I think it looks best if you go through each stitch at least Left-leaning knit decrease: Slip 1 knitwise. Slip another 1
twice). knitwise. Return slipped stitches to the left needle. Insert
the right needle from the right to the left into the back
Weave in your end. I like to plunge my needle through the loops of both stitches. Knit both together.
star, come out on the far side, trace the path of one stitch,
then plunge my needle back through the star, give the yarn Right-leaning knit decrease: Knit 2 together.
a gentle tug, snip it close to the fabric, and let the end disap- Centered double knit decrease: Slip 2 together at the
pear back inside the star. same time as if to knit 2 together. Knit 1. Pass slipped
stitches over.
1: The middle of your strand of yarn. 2: Smooth side of the cast on
Start your cast on in the middle of your strand of yarn. This The cast on has a smooth side (it faces you when you’re
wouldn’t be practical for a bigger project, but these use so casting on) and a bumpy side (it faces away from you when
little yarn that you can totally do this (it means fewer ends you’re casting on). This is the smooth side.
to weave in at the end).

3: The bumpy side of the cast on 4: Ready to start knitting side one
Flip your needles over (keep your yarn balls on the left) so Arrange your work to start knitting. I put the stitches I don’t
the bumpy side faces you. You’ll work the stitches on the top need now on the cable of a circular needle (it’s red) and the
needle first. So you’ll hold the stitches on the bottom needle stitches I’m about to work on DPNs. I also clamped one
out of the way (on the cable of a circular needle or a scrap of yarn ball to keep it tidy and out of the way. I’ll use the other
yarn) until you need them. ball as I knit the first side of the star.
5: Part way through side one 6: Side one finished
Knit through the appropriate Side 1 Chart. This shows what Finish the appropriate Side 1 Chart (this is the stockinette
it looks like after a few rounds. The active stitches are on chart in the 140-stitch size). Break your yarn, run it through
DPNs and the stitches I’ll need later are on the cable of a the 5 live stitches, and weave it in.
circular needle. The yarn I’m using is in the center, and the
yarn I’ll use later is clipped in the background.

7: Ready to start knitting side two 8: Part way through side two
Flip the star over (the back side of the fabric you just made Knit through the appropriate Side 2 Chart. This shows what
will be facing you) and move the stitches you set aside at it looks like after a few rounds. You can see where I wove in
the beginning onto whatever you want to knit them from my end from Side 1 there in the middle, and you can see the
(for me that meant moving them off the cable of the circular star starting to take shape.
needle and on to DPNs).
9: Ready to block 10: Blocking
Toss it in the sink (on the needles if your needles are metal Pin your damp star out evenly and wait for it to dry. There’s
or plastic, with the stitches on scrap yarn if your needles a blocking guide at the end of the pattern that you can print
can’t get wet). out to make things easier!

11: Stuff your star 8: Finished stars

Start small and use something long and skinny (knitting Work the last row, break your yarn, run it through the 5 live
needle, pencil, chopstick) to push the stuffing down into stitches, and weave it in. Then start on the next one!
each point. You can add lavender or chamomile if you like,
or use beans or rice to make hand warmers.
Side 1 100-stitch size, stockinette Side 2 100-stitch size, stockinette

Side 1 100-stitch size, reverse stockinette Side 2 100-stitch size, reverse stockinette

Side 1 100-stitch size, ribbed Side 2 100-stitch size, ribbed

100-stitch size
You can mix & match fabrics on the same star. Just pick
one from the left column for Side 1 and one from the
right column for Side 2.
Side 1 140-stitch size, stockinette Side 2 140-stitch size, stockinette

Side 1 140-stitch size, reverse stockinette Side 2 140-stitch size, reverse stockinette

Side 1 140-stitch size, ribbed Side 2 140-stitch size, ribbed

140-stitch size
You can mix & match fabrics on the same star. Just pick
one from the left column for Side 1 and one from the
right column for Side 2.
Side 1 180-stitch size, stockinette Side 2 180-stitch size, stockinette

Side 1 180-stitch size, reverse stockinette Side 2 180-stitch size, reverse stockinette

Side 1 180-stitch size, ribbed Side 2 180-stitch size, ribbed

180-stitch size
You can mix & match fabrics on the same star. Just pick
one from the left column for Side 1 and one from the
right column for Side 2.
Yarn Usage Guide

Each of the stars shown here took less than 30 yards of yarn Once you’ve got the right length of yarn, find the middle
(some of them a lot less). Because they take so very little (fold it in half or use a scale) and tie a slip knot in the
yarn, and because weaving in ends on something this small middle of the yarn. Now, wind each half up into a separate
is fiddly, I chose to do something a bit unconventional. I ball (leave a few feet to do your cast on with), and secure
started my cast on in the middle of my yarn (rather than at each half with a binder clip or a paper clip so it won’t come
one end). I think you should do the same. Now, this can feel unwound before you’re ready.
a tiny bit risky, so I want to talk you through it.
This only takes about five minutes (really, I promise!) and I
Start by measuring out 20 [25, 30] yards of yarn. There are find it by far the easiest way to make these.
lots of ways to do this. You could wrap your yarn around a
If you really don’t want to do this, you could cast on near
yard stick. You could measure how long one wrap around
the end of your yarn instead. But they you’ll have to deal
your swift or niddy noddy is and wrap your yarn enough
with twice the ends to weave in. The only time I’d even
times to get the length you need. Or you could do a tiny bit
consider that is if I was going to modify the pattern to make
of math (outlined below) and figure out what that much
a star the size of a pillow (so I’d be using more than one
yarn weighs and measure it out with a scale.
skein of yarn). But for stars the size of the ones shown here,
just starting in the middle is the way to go!

Yarn math

Not sure how much 30 yards of yarn weighs? Have a bit of leftover yarn but you’re not sure how many yards are in it?
I can help! Start by writing down the weight given on the ball band (something like 115 grams or 4 ounces) and the
length given on the ball band (something like 400 yards or 365 meters) in the spaces below. If your ball band only lists
one, you can probably find the other on ravelry. Then pick which thing you’re looking for and follow the steps below.
Remember, this is only as accurate as your scale is, so it’s always a good idea to be conservative with your estimates!

Length on band (for example 400 yards or 365 meters): Weight on band (for example 113 grams or 4 ounces):

What does that length of yarn weigh? How much yarn is in that ball?

I need a particular LENGTH of yarn. What does that much I know the WEIGHT of the yarn I have. How LONG is my
yarn WEIGH? yarn?
1: Divide the weight on band by the length on band to get 1: Divide the length on band by the weight on band to get
the weight per unit length. the length per unit weight.
Weight on band / Length on band = Length on band / Weight on band =
2: Multiply the answer from step one by the length you 2: Multiply the answer from step one by the weight of your
need. The answer will be what that much yarn weighs. yarn. The answer will be the length of your yarn.
Answer from step one x desired length = Answer from step one x weight of your yarn =
Blocking Guide

1. Print this page out (make sure your printer’s ink is 4. Make sure you’re pulling the points of the star to the
waterfast...I don’t want ink getting on your knitting!). same pentagon (they’re different colors and different
line styles to make it easier to keep track), and pin it
2. Put the page on top of something you can stick pins into
into place (be sure you’re using rustproof pins).
(blocking mat, corkboard, bed, thick carpet).
5. Let it dry completely (I know it’s hard, but I promise it’s
3. Put the damp star on top of it and gently stretch it
worth it).
out, aligning each point of the star with a point of the
pentagon. 6. Unpin it, stuff it, and finish your star.
Top Row Middle Row

1: Pure Merino from Ontheround in Butter- 8: Caper Aran from String Theory in mel-
cup, 100-stitch size, 10 yards. on, 100-stitch size, 15 yards.
2: Matrika from Seven Sisters Arts in Water 9: Squish DK from Spun Right Round in
Lilies, 100-stitch size, 10 yards. Frost, 140-stitch size, 15 yards.
3: Everyday Lite from Ontheround in Sugar 10: Maxima from Manos Del Uruguay in
Cookie, 140-stitch size, 15 yards. Daffodil, 140-stitch size, 20 yards.
4: Chameleon Sock Tornadoz gradient from 11: Caper Aran from String Theory in mel-
Indigodragonfly in the yellow color from on, 180-stitch size, 25 yards.
the Cahoots set, 180-stitch size, 25 yards. 12: Divine DK from Knitcircus in Brass
5: Everyday Lite from Ontheround in Sugar Band, 140-stitch size, 15 yards.
Cookie, 100-stitch size, 10 yards. 13: Arroyo from Malabrigo in Reflecting
6: Everlasting DK from Dream in Color in Pool, 180-stitch size, 20 yards.
Bluefish, 100-stitch size, 10 yards. 14: Fino from Manos Del Uruguay in Gilt,
7: Fino from Manos Del Uruguay in Gilt, 140-stitch size, 15 yards.
100-stitch size, 10 yards.

Bottom Row

15: Matrika from Seven Sisters Arts in Wa-

ter Nymph, 140-stitch size, 15 yards.
16: Superwash Sport from SweetGeorgia in
Goldmine, 180-stitch size, 20 yards.
17: Tosh Merino from Madelinetosh in Eso-
teric, 140-stitch size, 25 yards.
18: Everyday DK from Ontheround in Pa-
tina, 180-stitch size, 25 yards.
19: Tosh Merino from Madelinetosh in Eso-
teric, 140-stitch size, 25 yards.
20: Everyday Worsted from Ontheround in
Amber, 140-stitch size, 15 yards.
21: Socks that Rock Heavyweight from
Blue Moon Fiber Arts in Song Sung Blue,
100-stitch size, 10 yards.
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Find out more: Looking for more? Visit
me at pantsvillepress.com/blog to
see what I’m up to. And if you had a
good time with these stars, check out
Palpitation and make some adorable
hearts to go with them!
Copyright: This pattern (including
the text, charts, and photographs) is ©
Hunter Hammersen, 2018.
Contact: Have a question? I
probably have an answer! Check out
pantsvillepress.com/questions
There you’ll find answers to about 95%
of the questions people ask (and you’ll
get your answer right away). If you still
have a question, you’ll find contact info
there to get in touch with me.