USER MANUAL

MODEL: SH2000 COMBO

DIGITAL AUTOMATIC EGG INCUBATOR & HATCHER

VERY IMPORTANT!
READ THIS USER MANUAL BEFORE USING YOUR
INCUBATOR
 Table of Contents
Page 2 - 5:
Location and placement of your incubator
What you will find inside your incubator
How to use your Incubator Control Panel

Page 6 - 9:
How to operate your incubator
How to load eggs in your incubator
Managing the hatching process

Page 9 - 15:
Daily Checklist for your incubator
Incubation Problem Solving
________________________________________________________________________

Thank you for your choosing Surehatch!

Incubation and hatching is an exciting journey – thank you for trusting Surehatch as your incubator
brand of choice in this endeavor. We wish you all the best and hope that you enjoy this journey as
much as we do!
Feel free to contact us for advice or assistance at the details below. Join the Surehatch Egg
Incubator Owner’s Club on Facebook and meet some fellow Surehatch users!
Happy hatching!
Team Surehatch

Facebook: Surehatch Egg Incubator Owner’s Club

Instagram: @surehatch
Website: www.surehatch.com
E-mail: sales@surehatch.com

Technical Specs: SH2000 Combo

Voltage: 120V AC, 60Hz Single Phase
For Indoor Use Only
Take caution when operating as moving parts can cause injury
Surehatch Incubators have been designed for easy operation to produce the best possible
hatch rates taking all the variables of successful incubation into account.

All Surehatch incubators and hatchers have been tested in our factory and are made to
high quality standards. Ultimately the success of your hatchery operation lies in the hands of the
hatchery manager/user and the quality of the hatching eggs. It is therefore critically important that
the hatchery manager ensures that he/she follows the best recommended practices for successful
incubation.

The information provided in this user manual aims to help ensure optimal functioning of the incubator
to achieve the best possible incubation results. In addition to the contents of this user manual we also
recommend that you further your knowledge of incubation by studying additional hatchery
management info available on the internet.

NOTE: It is recommended that you operate the incubator with a small quantity of
inexpensive eggs to be assured of your operating procedures and the performance of the
incubator before attempting to hatch large quantities of eggs or expensive eggs.

Success in incubation has 3 main pillars which determines hatching results – these are:

1) The incubator (That is our part)

2) The quality of the hatching eggs (That is up to the hen and cock)
3) The inputs/management of the entire process (That is you)

All 3 pillars need to work together to produce a successful hatch. Below shows the interaction of all
the variables which determine incubation success:
Hatching Egg quality and Pre-Incubation Egg Storage
It is important to note that the incubator can only give good hatch rates if the eggs which are placed in it is
of good quality. Infertile eggs will never hatch, poor quality eggs will give low hatch rates. Good quality hatching
eggs havethe best chances of successful hatching. Shipped eggs have lower hatchability due to the
vibration/disturbances to the embryo and non-ideal temperature conditions during transport.
 Only use good quality, clean fertile hatching eggs

- Do not store eggs for longer than 7 days before incubating. On average, one day’s storage
adds one hour to incubation time. This must be taken into account when eggs are set, so freshand
stored eggs should be set at different times

- The longer you store the eggs, the lower the hatch rate. Hatchability is depressed by
prolonged storage. The effect increases with storage time after the initial six-day period,
resulting in losses of 0.5 to 1.5% per day with the percent increasing as storage extends
further

- Use eggs from good medium aged flock – young birds produce small eggs which are not idealfor
incubation. Older flock produce eggs which have lower hatchability

- Only set eggs which are uniform and clean. Never set “dirty” eggs – eggs with visible manure
on, as you will introduce pathogens into the incubator

- Don’t wipe eggs before setting as you will close the egg pores which they need to breathe
through – rather use a brush to clean eggs

- If you smell a bad egg, remove immediately and discard

- Candle eggs after 10 days in the incubator to check for fertility. Eggs cannot be checked for
fertility before 10 days in the incubator

- Remove eggs which are not fertile as they can potentially become “poppers” – eggs that burst
and release pathogens

- Don’t use a permanent marker when marking eggs. The egg can absorb the toxic chemicals inthe
permanent marker which leads to potential early death. Rather write on the plastic tray

- Never mix waterfowl (like duck eggs) with dry or game fowl (like chickens) in the same incubator or
hatcher. Waterfowl have potential pathogens on their shells which may negativelyaffect chicken
eggs and cause early deaths of embryos

- Place eggs with their sharp end pointing downwards both in storage as well as when placing in
the incubator

Location/Placement of the incubator

• Incubator/hatcher must be placed INDOORS.

• Select a suitable room which has an average temperature of 68°F - 82°F

• Don’t let the room temperature exceed 86° F. The incubator/hatcher cools down via the airwhich
it pulls in from the room. If the room temperature goes over 86°F the incubator will struggle to cool
down and can potentially overheat the eggs

• Have a reliable source of electricity - (110V Household Electricity – Single Phase).

If you use a generator as a back-up make sure it’s an INVERTER GENERATOR. Any other type
of generator could damage the electronics.

• Ensure that the floor surface is level where you place the incubator. The door of your
incubator/hatcher will not shut properly if the floor is uneven.

• Place the incubator/hatcher away from direct sunlight. You may place the incubator on a table or
on the ground, whichever suits you best. Place the incubator 2 feet away from a corner or wall so that
air can move around it freely.

• The room must have good ventilation. It’s important that there is always fresh air that
comes into the room.

• Depending on your room layout, we recommended that you make use of a wall/window extractor
fan to pull the air out of the room. As eggs develop into chicks, they release C02 (Carbon Dioxide)
which needs to be extracted out of the room. Ensure that fresh air (Oxygen)enters the room. Ideally
the air in the room needs to be replaced by fresh air every 4 to 6 hours.

• Try to maintain on average a 50% to 60% humidity in the ROOM. It is normal for humidity to
fluctuate day by day – this is fine as long as you don’t have extremes (Like 20% or 90% humidity in
the room). Your incubator has been designed to be capable to regulate its humidity under most
conditions – however, the more stable the room humidity, the easier it is for your incubator to
regulate.

• If you are in a very dry climate, place some water pans in the room to increase humidity. If you
maintain an average room temperature as suggested earlier then your room humidity usually results
in about 50%

• If you are in a very humid climate, you can remove the water pan/containers out of the
incubator/hatcher to decrease humidity in the incubator/hatcher

• Maintaining hygiene is particularly important in your incubator/hatchers as well as in the

hatchery room. Do not keep chicks in same room as the incubator/hatcher. Use a separate
room to placehatched chicks. This is done to maintain hygiene.

• We recommend having strict access control to the hatchery room. Do not let any unauthorized
persons tamper with the incubators/hatchers while you are away.

Some basics about incubation you need to know

• Chicken eggs take 21 days to incubate
• For the first 18 days eggs are placed in plastic egg trays (Also called the setter)
• On the morning of day 18 the eggs must be moved from the plastic egg trays(setter) to
the hatcher (Hatching crates below the egg tray).
• The eggs must lay still in the hatcher. On day 21/22 the chicks will start hatching.Chicks can
be left inside the incubator for up to 24 hours after they have hatched.
• DO NOT TO OPEN THE INCUBATOR/HATCHER FROM DAY 18 to 21 – opening the door
causes major moisture loss and may “shrink-wrap” the chicks inside the eggs
• Ideal incubation temperature is 99.5°F (Fluctuations between 96°F to 101°F is normal). Your
incubator is pre-set to regulate the temperature to 99.5°F

• Ideal incubator humidity: Day 1 to 18: 50-60%. Day 18 to 21: 60-65%

• Eggs must lose 12% of weight due to moisture loss in the first 18 days.

• Only eggs which are fertile can stand a chance to hatch. There are various reasons why
eggs don’t hatch – at the end of this manual you will find reasons why eggs fail to hatch. You
can check if the eggs are fertile after 10 days in the incubator. You can’t check for fertility
before they are placed in the incubator.
 CONTENTS INSIDE YOUR INCUBATOR:

Temperature and humidity

Sensor:
Water Bucket:
Sensitive to water - Auto ON/OFF Switch:
Must be filled with clean
Don’t spray water directly Incubator will switch off
water. Bucket supplies
onto sensor when cleaning when you open the door
water to water pan inside.
machine! and back on as you close it
Refill when empty

Incubator Control Panel:

Shows incubator
Connection temperature and humidity % Humidity
pipe for
Control Air
water
bucket
Vents

Black Plastic
Hatching
Crates:

This is where you

move the eggs to
Egg
on Day 18.
Turner
Chicks will hatch
Motor
in these crates
with
on day 21.
release
Chicks must be
clutch
removed from
the hatching
crates and
placed in a
brooder after
hatching. Chicks
can stay in the
hatching crates
for up to 24
Plastic Egg Trays: hours after they
Eggs are placed in the have hatched.
egg trays for the first 18 Plastic Water Pan:
days of incubation. (Located below hatching crates)
(Remove plastic cable Water evaporating from the pan
ties before use) creates humidity required for
incubation.

The water pan will automatically fill

itself with water coming from the
bucket on top of the machine.
 STARTING UP YOUR INCUBATOR:

STEP 1: Plug in your incubator:

Switch ON your incubator by plugging it in to the wall plug.

STEP 2: Connect water bucket to incubator and fill bucket with water
Your incubator has an automatic float valve inside that will allow water to flow into the inside water pan
from the bucket on top of the machine. Make sure that you check the bucket daily and fill with CLEAN
WATER as required.

STEP 3: SETTING INCUBATOR TEMPERATURE: (This will take about 1 hour)

The incubator has been factory set to heat up to 99.5°F (37.5 Degrees Celsius) when you switch
it on. The incubator will take about 1 hour to heat up to 99.5°F

***You can change the temperature display from Fahrenheit to Celsius by pressingboth TEMP
UP and TEMP DOWN together at the same time and keeping it pressed for 6 seconds.

Next steps:
- Close incubator door
- Wait for incubator to reach 99.5°F
- To change the incubator temperature set-point simply press the “Temp Up” or “Temp Down” Button
(Generally not required – only for advanced users)

Incubator Control Panel:

Incubator Incubator Incubator

Light Temperature Humidity
ON/OFF Ideal = 99.5°F (Ideal 50%
Switch to 65%)
 Egg
Turner
ON/OFF
Switch

Humidity Control
STEP 4: SETTING INCUBATOR HUMIDITY Air Vents
(This will take 1 to 2 hours) (Slide to adjust
humidity)
You can start adjusting humidity once the incubator hasbeen running at a temperature of 99.5°F for an at
least 1 hour.

The main way in which to change humidity on your incubator/hatcher is to adjust the Humidity Control
Air Vents on the front of the incubator. (Slide these plastic vents up or down to open or close the
vents).

*****The more open the vent is, the less the humidity will be. The less open, the higher the
humidity will be.

Never close the humidity control air vents completely – it’s always good to keep them slightly
open to assist in sufficient air exchanges for the eggs.

During incubation, water vapor is lost from the egg through the pores of the shell. The rate at which
this moisture is lost depends on the number and size of the pores (the gas conductance of the shell)
and the humidity in the air around the egg. For best hatchability, an egg must lose 12% of its weight
by 18 days of incubation.

HUMIDITY SETTINGS (IDEAL = 50% to 65%)

Humidity % is determined by the surface area of the water container/ pan and the amount of fresh air exchange in the incubator.
You can regulate humidity % by decreasing or increasing the SURFACE AREA of the water and by regulating the fresh air that
comes into the incubator

The ideal humidity % for incubation is between 50% and 65%

TO INCREASE HUMIDITY %
1) Fill water container/pan with WARM WATER
2) Adjust the HUMIDITY CONTROL AIR VENT in the front of the incubator to a LESS OPEN/ MORE CLOSED position
If the above two steps fail to increase humidity, do the following in addition to the above:
3) Place water pans and humidifier in the room where the incubator is standing to increase room humidity
 TO DECREASE HUMIDITY %
1) Adjust the AIR VENT in front to a MORE OPEN / LESS CLOSED position
2) Remove one of the water containers
If the above two steps fail to decrease humidity, do the following:
3) Remove both water containers completely (Only in very humid / wet areas)
4) Place a dehumidifier in the room (Only in very humid / wet areas)

After you are satisfied with the temperature and humidity you may place the eggs in the incubator
REMEMBER TO PLACE THE EGGS WITH THEIR SHARP END
POINTING DOWNWARDS IN THE TRAY AS SHOWN BELOW

Sharp end of the egg must point

downwards in the tray

Eggs must be in the egg trays for the first 18 days before transferring
them to the hatching baskets.

IMPORTANT NOTICE:
When packing eggs spread them evenly throughout the trays. Don’t
place all the eggs in the front or the back of the egg racks. If you pack
all the eggs in the front of the incubator the eggs turner will not turn –
this is an automatic safety feature to prevent turner motor from
unnecessary strain.
To avoid temperature shock to the embryo and consequent condensation on the shell, eggs
should be removed from the egg room and pre-warmed before setting. Ideally, eggs should be
pre-warmed in a room at around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C) so that all can achieve the desired
temperature.

Effective aircirculation and correct room temperature are essential to achieve the necessary
even pre-warming ofeggs. Uneven pre-warming increases variation in hatch time - precisely
the opposite of the desired effect of pre-warming. Even with good air circulation, it will take 8
hours for eggs to reach 78 °F (25°C), irrespective of their initial temperature. With poor air
circulation, it may take twice as long.

So, the recommendation is to:

• Provide good air circulation around the eggs.
• Allow 6 to 12 hours for pre-warming.

Automatic Egg Turning:

Egg Turning:
Your Surehatch Incubator is automatically set to turn the eggs every hour.
When loading eggs into the incubator you can disengage the egg turner motor by pressing the
clutch button.

Remember, eggs must be in the setter trays for the first 18 days and must be moved by hand to the
hatcher on the morning of day 18. Chicks will start hatching from day 21/22.

Disengaging the egg turner motor (For when you want to load eggs)
If you want to load eggs and the egg trays are angled at their 45 degree angle, you can disengage the
turner motor in order to make the trays horizontal.

How to disengage the turner motor:

Step 1:
Flip the EGG TURNER switch to OFF (Located on the front control panel)

Step 2:
Open the incubator door

Step 3:
Press the clutch button on the turner motor as shown below (Round Grey “Push” button).
If you press this button the trays will be able to move freely – See picture below

Turner Motor with

GREY Clutch PUSH
button

Step 4:
Make sure you are holding the egg rack with your one hand while pressing the clutch button.
BE CAREFULL when pressing the clutch button as the egg trays will move to a center position.
 Press
Clutch
Button and
racks will
move freely

Step 5:
Release the clutch button – the tray will now stay in position

Step 6:
Load the eggs/trays

Step 7:
Once trays are loaded onto the racks, Flip the EGG TURNER switch back ON. The racks will start
turning immediately.

Step 8:
Close the incubator door properly when done and observe how the trays are moving

Incubator light:

Your incubator has a light located on the inside of the incubator. This light may be switched on in
order to view the eggs or chicks inside the incubator.
VERY IMPORTANT: Don’t leave the light on as this will negatively effect the functioning of the
incubator. Only use the light when necessary. Switch the light OFF after you have viewed the
eggs/chicks inside the incubator.

CONGRATULATIONS!
YOU HAVE NOW SUCCESSFULLY SET UP YOUR SUREHATCH EGG INCUBATOR.
NEXT YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE DAILY CHECKLIST
Remember to clean the incubator after each hatch. Sanitation is CRITICALLY important for
successful hatching. Before loading any eggs, clean the incubator by wiping the insides with
a cloth and incubator sanitizer. It is essential that the incubator and trays/crates be cleaned
thoroughly between hatches.

Before cleaning inside the incubator, be sure to disconnect its electrical cord from theoutlet
to avoid possible electrical shock. Take care not to introduce moisture or water into the
electrical system of the incubator and allow all surfaces to dry before again reconnecting
the electrical cord to the outlet.

BE CAREFUL not to spray water directly onto the temperature or humidity sensor
located inside the machine as this will damage the sensor.
DAILY CHECKLIST FOR YOUR SUREHATCH INCUBATOR:
Check the following once per day — Correct where necessary
- CHECK Electricity - Electricity must always be ON. Power interruptions will negatively
affect the eggs.

- CHECK Incubator Temperature

Ideal temperature is 99.5°F (Fluctuation between 96°F to 101°F is normal)

- CHECK Incubator Humidity

Ideal humidity % for incubation is between 50% and 65%. Humidity takes hours to build
up and is quickly lost when the incubator door is opened. It is normal for humidity to fluctuate 10% to
15% from day to day due to changes in outside humidity.

- CHECK Incubator Fan - Must always be ON and spinning

- CHECK Egg Turner Switch — Must always be switched ON after loading and handling
eggs

- Check for smelly, rotten eggs — remove and throw away if any

- Check that FRESH AIR is coming into the room

- CHECK that nothing is blocking incubator AIR VENT

- CHECK that there’s NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT on the incubator

- CHECK ROOM TEMPERATURE —Ideal room temperature = 68°F - 82°F

- Don’t let the room temperature exceed 86° F.

- CLOSE incubator DOOR after you have opened it.

- Make sure no one can tamper with incubator while you are away!

- ONLY incubate CLEAN, FRESH, FERTILE eggs

MAINTAINING BIOSECURITY AND HYGIENE

- WIPE CLEAN the insides of your incubator after every hatch
- WASH YOUR HANDS EVERY TIME BEFORE you work with the incubator or touch
the eggs
- WASH your hatching crate/s and egg trays after every hatch with disinfectant
- Keep your incubation room clean and sanitized!
- Throw away any eggs which are smelly, dirty or rotten
Trouble Shooting Failures with Egg Incubation
When incubation of eggs fails, indications are often available that a well trained
professionaluses for diagnosing the causes for failure. The information listed below
includes the more common symptoms for incubation failures, the causes for each symptom,
and the recommended corrective measures Symptoms of incubation/breeder management
problemsinclude:
• Clear eggs with no visible embryonic development.
• Blood rings in incubated eggs.
• Many dead embryos at an early stage.
• Chicks fully formed, but dead without pipping.
• Pipped eggs, but died without hatching.
• Early hatching.
• Late hatching or not hatching uniformly.
• Sticky embryos.
• Embryos sticking or adhering to shell.
• Crippled and malformed chicks.
• Abnormal, weak, or small chicks.
• Chicks with labored breathing.
• Large, soft-bodied mushy chicks.
• Rough or unhealed navels on chicks.
• Short down on chicks.

• Excessive yellow down color.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Clear Eggs with no
Follow a recommended feeding program to
embryonic
Males undernourished provide adequate nutrition. Replace
development
(infertiles) underweight males with vigorous ones
Too few males Increase the number of males in the flock.
Use young cockerels more resistant to
Seasonal decline in fertility
environmental stress.
Do not use too many males. Rear all males
Competition among breeding
together. Place temporary partitions within
males large pens.
Conduct an approved disease control
Diseased flock
program.
Provide comfortable housing. Properly select
Frozen combs and wattles
and maintain drinking fountains.
Old males Replace with younger males.
Artificially inseminate infertile hens. Replace
Selected mating in pens
males in the pen/house.
Male sterility Replace males in the pen/house.
Provide recommended floor space, at least 3
Crowded breeders
ft²/bird.
 Improper artificial
insemination techniques or Follow recommendations of primary breeder
use of old/over-diluted company.
semen.
Eggs damaged by
Gather eggs frequently (at least once daily).
environment
Store eggs at 50-60 degrees F. and 60%
Eggs stored too long or
relative humidity. Incubate eggs within 7
incorrectly
days of lay.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Follow recommended egg storage and
Blood rings Improper storage gathering recommendations.
Check thermometer accuracy and incubator
Improper incubation
functions. Follow recommended temperature
temperatures
settings.
Feed breeders a diet with balanced nutrient
Improper breeder nutrition
levels.
Improper fumigation Follow fumigation recommendations.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Many dead Improper incubation
embryos at early temperatures (usually too Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
stages high)
Improper egg turning Turn at least 3 times daily.
Avoid cross breeding. May need to secure
Inherited low hatchability
different breeding stock.
Increase ventilation rate in incubator and/or
Improper ventilation room, but avoid drafts. Add oxygen at high
altitudes.
Pullorum disease or other Use eggs from disease-free sources. Have NPIP
salmonelloses representatives blood-test the breeder flock.
Improper nutrition of breeders Provide a well-balanced nutritional diet to breeders

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Chicks fully formed,
but dead without Maintain recommended humidity for species of bird
Low average humidity
pipping incubated.
Check thermometer accuracy and incubator
Improper incubation
functions. Follow recommended temperature
temperature
settings.
Improper ventilation in Adjust ventilation to provide optimum moisture-
incubator loss rate from egg during incubation.
Turn eggs at least three times daily until 3 days
Improper turning of eggs
prior to hatching.
Gather eggs frequently and store under proper
Chilling of eggs
conditions.
Conduct a good disease control and breeder
Diseased or poorly
management program. Use a well-balanced
conditioned breeder flock
nutritional diet.
Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures
Pipped eggs, but
died without Insufficient moisture Increase humidity during the hatching period.
hatching
Increase ventilation rate in incubator and/or
Improper ventilation
room, but avoid drafts.
Improper setting of eggs Set eggs with small end down. Turn eggs
causing malpositioned properly but avoid turning within 3 days of
embryos hatching.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
Early hatching (may High incubation Check equipment for proper function. Guard
have bloody navels) temperatures against electrical surges or high incubator room
temperatures.
Store eggs at 60 Degrees F. and 60% R.H. Turnat
Improper egg storage
least 3 times daily.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Late hatching or not Low incubation
Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
hatching uniformly temperatures

Gather eggs frequently, cool immediately and

Old or improperly stored
store eggs properly. Do not store longer than 7
eggs
days.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Sticky embryos
Follow recommended incubation humidity. Check
(embryos may be High average incubation
size of air cell as an indicator for adjusting humidity
smeared with egg humidity
condition.
contents)
Low incubation
Follow recommended temperature settings.
temperature
Avoid cross breeding. May need to secure different
Lethal genes
breeding stock.
Increase ventilation rate in incubator and/or room,
Inadequate ventilation but avoid drafts.
Improper fumigation ofeggs Fumigate eggs by following the procedure
carefully.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Low incubation humidity
Embryos sticking or Increase incubation humidity by increasing water
(especially during
adhering to shell evaporation. Embryos dried too much.
hatching)
Reduce ventilation rate but maintain minimum air
Excessive ventilation rate
exchange to prevent suffocation of embryos.
Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures
Crippled and Improper incubation
malformed chicks temperatures (usually too high) Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
Increase incubation humidity by increasing water
Low incubation humidity
evaporation. Embryos dried too much.
Set eggs with small ends down. Turn eggs atleast
Improper egg setting position or
3 times daily. Do not turn eggs within 3
turning during incubation
days of hatching.
Proper culling and breeding practices will reduce
Heredity
problems.
Use trays with wire floors or place crinoline on
Slick hatching trays
hatching surface.
Provide a well-balanced nutritional diet to
Improper nutrition of breeders
breeders.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Abnormal, weak, or High incubation or hatching
Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
small chicks temperatures
Small eggs hatch small
Set only standard or large sized eggs.
chicks
Insufficient incubation Maintain recommended humidity for species of
humidity bird incubated..
Improper ventilation in
Increase ventilation rate, but avoid drafts.
hatcher unit
Use eggs from disease-free sources only. Have
Diseased or poorly
NPIP representatives blood-test the breeder
conditioned breeder flock
flock.
Provide a well-balanced nutritional diet to
Improper nutrition of breeders
breeders (especially vitamin levels).
Excessive fumigation in Fumigate using proper procedures.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Chicks with labored
breathing Excessive use of fumigant Follow recommended fumigation procedures.
Check disease status of breeder flock. Conduct a
Respiratory diseases thorough cleanup and disinfection of incubator and
hatching facilities.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Rough or unhealed Improper incubation
navels temperatures Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
High hatching humidity Maintain proper humidity.
Clean and disinfect incubator and hatching units
Navel infection (Omphalitis) between settings of eggs. Maintain dry hatching
trays. Properly store and fumigate eggs.

Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Symptoms
Short down on High incubation
chicks temperatures Follow recommended incubation temperatures.
Follow suggestions to correct insufficient
Low incubation humidity
humidity.
Reduce vent openings to restrict but maintain
Excessive ventilation
adequate air exchange.
 Holding chicks in hatcher toolong Remove all chicks as soon as fluffy but within 24
after hatching hours after hatching.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Excessive yellow Improper and excessive
coloring of down fumigation in hatcher unit Follow recommended fumigation procedures.
 Trouble Shooting Failures with Surehatch Egg Incubators
In general there is very little that will go wrong with your Surehatch incubator. In the unlikely event
that something goes wrong, please contact us or consult the trouble shooting below. NB Always
switch off the incubator when making repairs. ONLY ELECTRICIANS SHOULD MAKE REPAIRS
dueto the dangers of electrical shock.

Symptoms Probable Cause Corrective Measures

Make sure that all plugs are
Incubator not plugged in or electricity
Incubator not running correctly plugged in and that the
not on. Auto off switch atdoor faulty
electricity is on. Check auto off
switch on door

Replace Temperature Controller.

Fan is working but Incubator not Faulty Temperature Controller or Once this is done and the problem
producing heat faulty heating elements persists, consider replacing the
heating elements (Very unlikely to
happen)
Faulty Temperature Controller or Replace temperature controller or
Incubator does not regulate
temperature sensor temperature sensor
temperature

Make sure egg turner is switched on.

Load eggs in balance (Load equal
number of eggs in front and back of
Egg Turner not switched on or eggs
Egg trays not turning the machine). If all eggs areloaded in
loaded incorrectly
front or back then the turner will not
turn

Adjust temperature and monitor. If

not resolved consider replacing
Someone adjusted temperature or
Incorrect temperature temperature controller and
faulty temperature controller
temperature probe

Dry out sensor with hair dryer (Blow

on sensor for 3 min on cold setting of
Humidity too high (Shows 99% Faulty Humidity Sensor due to water
hair dryer). If reading does not go
Reading) spilled onto it
back to normal replace humidity
sensor
 Thank you for your support!

We wish you all the best and look forward

todoing business again.

Happy hatching!
The Surehatch Team
Facebook:
Surehatch Egg Incubator Owner’s Club
Website: www.surehatch.com
E-mail: sales@surehatch.com
LIMITED WARRANTEE & LIMITED LIABILITY
Whereas Surehatch has no control over usage of equipment supplied, it assumes no responsibility for
losses or damage from their equipment. No guarantee on hatchability of eggs.
Do not expose electrical parts to water. Installation of replacement electrical parts should be done by
qualified electrician.
STANDARD TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY
Contact us via email to receive your copy.

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