Bicycle Owner’s Manual

IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and service information.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for
reference.

Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components

such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as
helmets or lights that you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your
dealer has given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was included with
your bicycle or accessories. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this
manual and information provided by a component manufacturer, always follow
the component manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility

for your safety and consult with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.

NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance
manual. Please see your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer
may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics or books on bicycle use, service,
repair or maintenance.

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 Focus Bicycle Owner’s Manual

Contents
Bicycle Component Locator p. 4 4. Tech
A. Wheels p. 22
GENERAL WARNING p. 6 1. Secondary retention devices p. 24
A Special Note for Parents p. 7 2. Wheels with cam action systems p. 24
3. Removing and installing wheels p. 24
1. First Ride B. Seat post cam action clamp p. 28
A. Bike Fit p. 8 C. Brakes p. 29
B. Safety First p. 9 D. Shifting gears p. 35
C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 9 E. Pedals p 42
D. First Ride p. 11 F. Bicycle Suspension p. 43
G. Tires and Tubes p. 44
2. Safety
A. The Basics p. 11 5. Service
B. Riding Safety p. 12 A. Service Intervals p. 46
C. Off Road Safety p. 13 B. If your bicycle sustains an impact p. 48
D. Wet Weather Riding p. 14
E. Night Riding p. 14 Appendix A: Intended Use p. 49
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding p. 15 Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components p. 55
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories p. 16 Appendix C: Coaster Brakes p. 62
Appendix D: Bicycle Inspection Plan p. 64
3. Fit Appendix E: Tightening Torques/Tire Pressure/
Lighting Systems p. 66
A. Standover height p. 17
B. Saddle position p. 18
C. Handlebar height and angle p. 21
D. Control position adjustments p. 21
E. Brake reach p. 21

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 Bicycle Component Locator 1. Handlebar
2. Handlebar Stem
3. Headset
15
4. Fork
5. Front Brake
6. Frame
2 7. Tires
8. Rear Brake
9. Pedal
3
10. Wheels
11. Chain
8 1 12. Rear Derailleur
7
13. Front Derailleur
6 6 5 14. Bottom Bracket
15. Saddle

13
4

12

11
10

14
9

10 7

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 GENERAL WARNING: A Special Note for Parents:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your
a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — minor child, and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to
and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your
maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury. child have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you
and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe
consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well as
follow safe cycling practices. review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with
your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
• T
 he combination of the safety alert symbol and the word WARNING
indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result
in serious injury or death.  ARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved
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bicycle helmet when riding; but also make sure that your child
• T
 he combination of the safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling only, and must be
indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing,
minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices. in play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at
any time while not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning
 he word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation
• T could result in serious injury or death.
which, if not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the
voiding of your warranty.

Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”.
Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always
repeat the warning of possible injury or death.

Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can

occur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use
of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use
of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole
responsibility of the rider.

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 1. First Ride C. Mechanical Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your first
 uts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide
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ride. At the very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this
variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often
section, and refer to the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely
differing by model and component, the correct tightening force or torque
understand. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described in
cannot be generalized. To make sure that the many fasteners on your
this Manual. Ask your dealer to point out the features of your bicycle.
bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque Specifications in
Appendix D of this manual or to the torque specifications in the instructions
A. Bike Fit provided by the manufacturer of the component in question. Correctly
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too tightening a fastener requires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional
large or too small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on you
the right size, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it. bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you must use a torque
wrench and the correct tightening torque specifications from the bicycle
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your
or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an
saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
adjustment at home or in the field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will the fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as soon as possible.
allow no saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C.  ARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners –nuts, bolts,
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screws– on your bicycle is important. Too little force, and the
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust fastener may not hold securely. Too much force, and the fastener can
their angle and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E. strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrect
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your tightening force can result in component failure, which can cause you
first ride, have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do not to loose control and fall.
understand.
 ake sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or
M
B. Safety First three inches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look
loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with
manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care. experience to check.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See  ires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see Section 4.G.1).
T
Section 2. It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the
areas where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws. handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check tire deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the
Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious  ires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread
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injury or death. and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure  heels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-
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you know how they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require special side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or
techniques and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, hits the brake pads, take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel
adjustment and care. trued.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip
may be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward  AUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work effectively.
C
and the wheel is turned. Read Section 4.E. to check whether you have toeclip Wheel trueing is a skill which requires special tools and experience.
overlap. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge,
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. Suspension can experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
change the way a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s
instructions for use, adjustment and care.

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  heel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and
W D. First Ride
undamaged at the tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on your
surface. Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not visible
new bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other
at any point on the wheel rim.
cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls,
features and performance of your new bike.
 ARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer
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about wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicator Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.C). Test the
which becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface wears. A visible brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying
rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an indication that the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake
the wheel rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a
that is at the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of
can cause you to loose control and fall. what can happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the
B
 rakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C). Squeeze pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4.
the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables
seated and securely engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension
contact the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the rim? Do responds to brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above
the brakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever movement? Can and Section 4.F.
you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move the
handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having
brakes are properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic. moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the
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 heel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly bicycle.
secured. See Section 4.A Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
S
 eat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it
easy height adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked should be, consult your dealer before you ride again.
position. See Section 4.B.
H
 andlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem
are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you
2. Safety
can’t twist them out of alignment. See Sections 3.B and 3.C.
A. The Basics
H
 andlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good
condition. If not, have your dealer replace them. Make sure the handlebar WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specific safety devices.
ends and extensions are plugged. If not, have your dealer plug them before It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the area
you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they are where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly
clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them. equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about
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 ARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating
cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or bike path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle
extensions can cut you and cause serious injury in an otherwise traffic laws. It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.
minor accident.
1. A
 lways wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certification standards
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: and is appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious
information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might have been avoided if the
B on Page 43. rider had worn an appropriate helmet.

 ARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious

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injury or death.

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 2. A
 lways do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike. 8. N
 ever ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency vehicle
3. B
 e thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); sirens, distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and
pedals (Section 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.) their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose
control.
4. B
 e careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of
chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning 9. N
 ever carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet
wheels of your bicycle. and secured in a correctly mounted child carrier or a child-carrying trailer.

5. A
 lways wear: 10. N
 ever carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control
of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the
• S
 hoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that bicycle.
shoe laces cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
• B
 right, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the
bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail. 12. D
 on’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies,
jumps or go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F,
• P
 rotective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your skills
when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not. before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
6. D
 on’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain 13. D
 on’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people
bike, can be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle with whom you are sharing the road.
and its components. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious
damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you attempt to 14. Observe and yield the right of way.
jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F. 15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
7. R
 ide at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk. 16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn,
dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions
increases the risk of accident.
B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local traffic laws.
C. Off Road Safety
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and
other cyclists. Respect their rights. We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they are
accompanied by an adult.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
1. T
 he variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding require close
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid: attention and specific skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop
ahead of you, also increases your risk of losing control and falling. Get to know how to
or coming up behind you. handle your bike safely before trying increased speed or more difficult terrain.
• Parked car doors opening. 2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road. 3. D
 on’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk that someone knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve 4. A
 lways take along some kind of identification, so that people know who
into traffic, catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident. you are in case of an accident; and take along some cash for food, a cool
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride. drink or an emergency phone call.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the 5. Y
 ield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does
edge of the road as possible, in the direction of traffic flow or as directed by not frighten or endanger them, and give them enough room so that their
local governing laws. unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at street 6. B
 e prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding off-road, help
intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a may not be close.
motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. B
 efore you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping. understand Section 2.F.
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 Off Road Respect Removing the reflectors reduces your visibility to others using the roadway.
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride off-road, and respect Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death.
private property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, The reflector brackets may protect you from a brake straddle cable
other cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing
ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It you to loose control and fall.
is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Leave things
as you found them; and always take out everything you brought in. If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you
comply with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly
D. Wet Weather Riding recommended additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which
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 ARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both meet all regulatory requirements and provide adequate visibility.
for the bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an
accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions. • Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective
vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes lights attached to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device
of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching
grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions,
ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you • Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle
would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C. does not obstruct a reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and
E. Night Riding securely mounted reflectors.
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children • Ride slowly.
should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the
greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra • Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic.
care both riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps reduce that • Avoid road hazards.
risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
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 ARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at If riding in traffic:
dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without an • Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
adequate bicycle lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous
and may result in serious injury or death. • Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask your dealer about traffic safety classes or
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect car lights and street lights a good book on bicycle traffic safety.
in a way that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.

C
 AUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding
make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping,
mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and Stunt Riding, Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme,
straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose. aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly
increased risk of injury or death.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brake
straddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may
the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks. not be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the
bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in
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 ARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector extreme riding.
brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s
safety system.
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 When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products you
and therefore face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix A, p. 35 and B, p. 41.
equipment carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in
perfect condition. Consult with expert riders, area site personnel and race  ARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate
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officials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you plan and maintain any component or accessory can result in serious injury
to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet, or death.
full finger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have
proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.  ARNING: Changing the components on your bike with other than
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genuine replacement parts may compromise the safety of your
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 ARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles bicycle and may void the warranty. Check with your dealer before
about bicycling depict riders engaged in extreme riding, this activity changing the components on your bike.
is extremely dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, and
increases the severity of any injury. Remember that the action
depicted is being performed by professionals with many years of
training and experience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet
3. Fit
and other appropriate safety gear. Even with state-of-the-art NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance
protective safety gear, you could be seriously injured or killed when and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result in
jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in competition. correct fit for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill
and special tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on your
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 ARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer
strength and integrity, and this type of riding can exceed those check your work before riding.
limitations.
 ARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control
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We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if and fall. If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange it
you choose to take the risk, at least: before you ride it.
• Take lessons from a competent instructor first
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying A. Standover Height
more difficult or dangerous riding 1. Diamond frame bicycles
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding Standover height is the basic element of
bike fit (see ). It is the distance from the
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear
ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by this kind at that point where your crotch is when
of activity may break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty straddling the bike. To check for correct
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your standover height, straddle the bike while
bicycle when any part is damaged. wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll
be riding, and bounce vigorously on your
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know heels. If your crotch touches the frame,
the limits of your skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride
responsibility. the bike around the block. A bike which
you ride only on paved surfaces and never
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories take off-road should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two
inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that
comfort, performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you you’ll use off road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
change components or add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The
bicycle’s manufacturer may not have tested that component or accessory 2. Step-through frame bicycles
for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing any Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead,
component or accessory, including a different size tire, make sure that it is the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able
compatible with your bicycle by checking with your dealer. Be sure to read,
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 to adjust your saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle. Also see
set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or NOTE above and fig. 5).
“Maximum Extension” mark on the seat post.
 ARNING: If your seat post is not inserted
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in the seat tube as described in B.1 above,
B. Saddle position
the seat post may break, which could
Correct saddle adjustment is an important cause you to lose control and fall.
factor in getting the most performance and
comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle 2. F
 ront and back adjustment. The saddle can
position is not comfortable for you, see be adjusted forward or back to help you get the
your dealer. optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to
The saddle can be adjusted in three set the saddle for your optimal riding position
directions: and to show you how to make this adjustment.
If you choose to make your own front and
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for back adjustment, make sure that the clamp
correct saddle height (fig. 3): mechanism is clamping on the straight part of
• sit on the saddle; the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you
• place one heel on a pedal; are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D
• rotate the crank until the pedal with or the manufacturer’s instructions).
your heel on it is in the down position
and the crank arm is parallel to the 3. S
 addle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some
seat tube. riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can
adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on
your hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow
leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low. any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the
you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to clamp bolt to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
make your own saddle height adjustment: instructions).
loosen the seat post clamp
r aise or lower the seat post in the seat tube  ARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt
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m ake sure the saddle is straight fore and aft saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on the
r e-tighten the seat post clamp to the mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the
recommended torque (Appendix D clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and
or the manufacturer’s instructions). fall.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can
that the seat post does not project from the frame stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either
beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control
Extension” mark (fig. 4). and fall.

NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the
tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see whether the seat post is suspension mechanism may require periodic service or maintenance. Ask
inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight your dealer for recommended service intervals for your suspension seat post.
hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be visible Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on performance
through the sight hole. and comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a
time.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some suspension
bikes, you must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame
so that you can touch it through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the

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 W
 ARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle  ARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can
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adjusting mechanism is properly seated and tightened before riding. affect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or
A loose saddle clamp or seat post clamp can cause damage to the creating excess cable slack which can make the front brake
seat post, or can cause you to lose control and fall. A correctly inoperable. If the front brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or
tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement out away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is
in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the
adjusting mechanism is properly tightened. bicycle.

If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has
your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a different saddle design. an adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do not
Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also
dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your require adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
body and riding style, will be comfortable.
 ARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that
W
W
 ARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can
saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the
pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or long-term injury to bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
nerves and blood vessels, or even impotence. If your saddle causes
you pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
riding until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a different
saddle.  ARNING: An insufficiently tightened stem clamp bolt, handlebar
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clamp bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt may compromise
steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Place
C. Handlebar height and angle the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist
the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the
stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are
tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the insufficiently tightened.
steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If
you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your
bike has, ask your dealer.
D. Control position adjustments
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig. 6) your dealer may be able to change
handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the
above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it If you choose to make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-
requires special knowledge. tighten the clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig. 7) you can ask your dealer to adjust the
handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height. E. Brake reach
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates the Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small
stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must not be hands or find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust
visible above the headset. the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
W
 ARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum  ARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to
W
Insertion Mark must not be visible above have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be
the top of the headset. If the stem is applied within available brake lever travel. Brake lever travel
extended beyond the Minimum Insertion insufficient to apply full braking power can result in loss of control,
Mark the stem may break or damage the which may result in serious injury or death.
fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you
to lose control and fall.

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 4. Tech • A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on
one end and a fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the
other (through bolt, fig. 9)
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how
things work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the
things described in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you
have your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even the
slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this section of the
Manual, talk to your dealer. See also Appendix A, B, C and D.

A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for
repair of a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots,
called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes
use what is called a “through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through axle front or rear
wheels, make sure that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s
instructions, and follow those when installing or removing a through axle
wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your dealer.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an
adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolt-
(cam action system, fig.8 a & b)
on wheel, fig. 10)

Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front
wheel than for the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your
bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method
on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and
that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely secures
the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal
and installation, and ask him to give you any available manufacturer’s
instructions.

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 W
 ARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow the controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut
wheel to wobble or fall off the bicycle, which can cause serious injury clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
or death. Therefore, it is essential that you: turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces
clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and
the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel  ARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the
W
in place. wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you
clamped. can get it will not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts.
See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of
the dropouts. b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8b)

1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly
adjusted for your bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention adjustment every six months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on
device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel any bicycle other than the one for which your dealer adjusted it.
is incorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for
correctly securing your front wheel. 3. Removing and Installing wheels
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
 ARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear
W
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub coaster brake, front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has an
or front fork. internal gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The
b. T he integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front removal and re-installation of most hub brakes and internal gear hubs
fork dropouts. requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike. in brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor
W
 ARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. very hot during use.
If the wheel is not secured correctly, the secondary retention device
can reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork. Removing a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
or disabling the secondary retention device may also void the warranty.
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your mechanism to increase the clearance between the tire and the brake pads
wheel. Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble (See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
or disengage, which could cause you to loose control and fall, resulting in
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever
serious injury or death.
from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b).
If your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the
2. Wheels with cam action systems
fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench,
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: lock key or the integral lever.
the traditional over-center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (fig. 8b).
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage
Both use an over-center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your
it and go to step (4). If your front fork has an integral secondary retention
bicycle may have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system and a traditional
device, and a traditional cam action system (fig. 8a) loosen the tension
rear wheel cam action system.
adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel from the dropouts. If
your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (fig. 8a)
and cam lever together while removing the wheel. No rotation of any part is
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to
of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is
release the wheel from the front fork.

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 b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel (7) S
 pin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes
C
 AUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be careful are operating correctly.
not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the
disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear system: shift the rear
derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever so that
it curves away from the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike If y ou have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealer or the hub
has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step. manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake, go to step (4) below.
blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam (2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release
lever, if there is one, should be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). mechanism to increase the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake
If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it. pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam lever in the (3) O
 n a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
ADJUST position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with
your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you (4) W
 ith a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release lever to the OPEN
have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup (fig. 8b) will have snapped into position (fig. 8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the
the recessed area of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required. fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then
push the wheel forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, rear sprocket.
and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(5) L
 ift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and remove it from the rear
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into dropouts.
the CLOSED position (fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the
fork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
you should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage,
and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.  AUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be careful
C
(b) W
 ith a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions. disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless
the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all
the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN (1) W
 ith a cam action system, move the cam lever to the OPEN position (see fig.
position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter 8 a & b). The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur
turn and try tightening the lever again. and freewheel sprockets.
(5) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque (2) O
 n a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its outermost,
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions. high gear, position; then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
W
 ARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention (3) O
 n single-speed, remove the chain from the front sprocket, so that you have
device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever plenty of slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, the
lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the (4) T
 hen, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the
serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension (5) O
 n a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace the chain on the chainring;
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See also the pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the
first WARNING in this Section, p. 18. chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play.
(6) W
 ith a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. a. (1) above,
CLOSED position (fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat
re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
stay or chain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping

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 force, you should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for  ARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the
W
leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand. seat post securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
(7) W
 ith a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions. you can get it will not clamp the seat post safely.

NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all  ARNING: If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your
W
the way to a position parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to fingers around the seat post or a frame tube for leverage, and the
the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one- lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the
quarter turn and try tightening the lever again. tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
W
 ARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention
device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever C. Brakes
without wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or chain stay for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate by
hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the squeezing the wheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate
surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; by squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal
turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. hub brakes. All three can be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever.
See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18. On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated by pedaling
backwards. This is called a Coaster Brake and is described in Appendix C.
(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above,
re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance. WARNING:
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes 1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn brake pads, or wheels on
are operating correctly. which the rim wear mark is visible is dangerous and can result in serious
injury or death.
B. Seat Post Cam Action Clamp 2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seat post could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive application
cam action binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may
(Section 4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on result in serious injury or death.
one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to 3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 11) and linear-pull brakes
firmly clamp the seat post (see fig. 8a). (fig. 12), are extremely powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar
with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them.
W
 ARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow
the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. 4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake force modulator, a small,
Therefore: cylindrical device through which the brake control cable runs and which
is designed to provide a more progressive application of braking force. A
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp modulator makes the initial brake lever force more gentle, progressively
your seat post. increasing force until full force is achieved. If your bike is equipped with
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post. a brake force modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar with its
performance characteristics.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seat post is securely clamped.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not to
Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the 6. S
 ee the brake manufacturer’s instructions for operation and care of your
seat post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the brakes, and for when brake pads must be replaced. If you do not have
tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise manufacturer.
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufacturer-approved
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe
genuine replacement parts.
and unsafe clamping force.

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 1. Brake controls and features and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the
wheel locks.
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
remember which brake lever controls which brake on When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body
your bike. Traditionally, the right brake lever controls wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of
the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the front weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub,
brake; but, to make sure your bike’s brakes are set up which could send you flying over the handlebars).
this way, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup;
brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with the a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply
other brake lever. brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and
the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front
small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shift
dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be weight forward.
adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel
design. lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking,
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight
when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It
are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you will take longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is
understand the way the brake quick release works on reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up
your bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check each with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to
time to make sure both brakes work correctly before grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
you get on the bike.
Adjusting the brakes
2. How brakes work
Your bicycle’s brakes have been correctly adjusted in the factory or by your dealer.
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the
friction between the braking surfaces. To make sure that The gap between the brake block and the wheel rim is approx. 1 – 1.5 mm.
you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel However, the brake blocks are subject to wear, so that the gap becomes ever
rims and brake pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean larger and the brake lever travel becomes longer. The brakes must therefore be
and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes. checked at regular intervals and adjusted if the lever travel is too great or the
brakes do not brake correctly.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to
stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel Checking the brakes:
occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up”
(stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids,  ull the brake lever for the front or rear brake three quarters of the way back
P
you actually lose most of your stopping force and all whilst pushing the bicycle.
directional control. You need to practice slowing and The rear wheel should lock, or
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The
technique is called progressive brake modulation. t he front wheel should brake so strongly, that the bicycle begins to tip over
Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where towards the front.
you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force,
squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking Adjusting the brake pad
force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release Check if the brake pads are positioned in the center of the rim flank and do not
pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just touch the tire when you pull the brake lever.
short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the
If they do not sit correctly, have them serviced by a dealer. To do it by yourself,
amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel
loosen the nut by a fitting spanner or allen key. Replace the pads to a position as
at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better
shown. Retighten the nut to the correct torque, see page 45. Check the position
understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike
again. Repeat if nessecary.
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 Adjusting the gap between the brake pad and the wheel rim Be particularly careful not to touch the
brake disc with your finger during instal-
Turn the cable adjustment screw (adjusting bush). To increase the brake pad
lation, removal or maintenance if the disc
gap, the adjusting screw is turned towards the inside (clockwise). To decrease
is rotating. If you insert your fingers in the
the brake pad gap, the adjusting screw is turned towards the outside
holes in the brake disc, you may suffer
(anticlockwise). The gap between the brake block and the wheel rim should
serious injury.
be 1 mm. Adjusting bush Grip width adjusting screw
Spring adjustment screw The brake saddle and the disc may be hot
Cable adjustment screw
after braking, therefore do not touch them during
or immediately after riding, as you could burn yourself.
Before adjusting the brakes, check that the parts have cooled down sufficiently.

 our bicycle may be fitted with a disc brake only when appropriate fixings
Y
are present on the frame and on the fork. If in doubt, consult a dealer.
2 1 If the brake blocks have come into contact with oil or grease they must be
If necessary, adjust the spring replaced. If the brake disc has come into contact with oil or grease it must be
tension using the spring adjustment cleaned, otherwise braking efficiency may be strongly impaired.
screw so that both brake arms move
symmetrically. Subsequently, check Check whether or not the quick release lever is located on the right-hand side
that the brakes work correctly 2 2
(opposite side to the brake disc). If the quick release lever is located on the
(see page 26). 1 1
same side as the brake disc, there is a danger that the lever and the brake disc
could impair one another 2 mm 0,5 mm

Spring Spring A worn, cracked or bent brake disc must be

1 mm 1 mm
adjustment adjustment replaced. Consult a dealer.
screw screw

If the brakes do not work correctly, of if the brake blocks are worn to the extent If the thickness of the brake block is less than
that adjustment is no longer possible, have the bicycle checked and the brake 0.5 mm, it must be replaced.
Brake block
blocks replaced by a dealer.

Disc brakes Brake disk

General safety advice
This type of brake is fitted with a brake disc mounted on the hub and a brake
saddle on the frame or on the fork. Hydraulic Disc Brakes

The hydraulic oil pressure disc brake has a fluid reservoir on the brake lever.
Have disc brakes adjusted by a dealer. The hydraulic fluid is fed to the calipers via a tube. The brake blocks are thus

Incorrect adjustments can lead to accidents. pressed against the wheel rim via the brake pistons. This is a low maintenance
Carry out a braking test after each adjustment by pushing the bicycle strongly type of brake.
whilst pulling the brake lever. Only use your bicycle when it can be safely braked.
Carry out a braking test after each adjustment by pushing the bicycle
Disc brakes require a ‘braking-in’ period. For braking in correctly, read the strongly whilst pulling the brake lever. Only use your bicycle when it can be
manufacturers informations. safely braked.
Braking power increases within this time. You should therefore be aware during Check the tubes and connections for leaks each time before riding. Leaking
the braking-in period that the braking power can increase. The same applies tubes and connections can result in brake fluid leaking out of the braking
after replacement of the brake blocks or the disc. system. This can lead to reduced efficiency of the brakes.
If you hear noises when braking, the brake blocks may be worn down to the
wear limit. Allow the brakes to cool down and have the brake block thickness Do not use the brakes further if oil leaks out; have the appropriate repairs carried
checked or the brake blocks replaced. out by a dealer without delay.

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 If you continue to ride in this condition, there is a large risk of brake failure. If the ced. If the brake disc has come into contact with oil or grease it must be
brake blocks have come into contact with oil or grease they must be replaced. If cleaned, otherwise braking efficiency may be strongly impaired.
the brake disc has come into contact with oil or grease it must be cleaned,  se water with a little dishwashing detergent or a dry cloth to clean and
U
otherwise braking efficiency may be strongly impaired. maintain the braking system. Contact an authorised dealer for the use of
brake cleaning agents or agents for preventing brake noises as these may
Steam bubble formation damage parts such as seals.
• Steam bubble formation may occur if the brakes are applied constantly.
Therefore, release the brake lever from time to time in order to avoid such a
D. Shifting gears
situation.
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below),
• Steam bubbles are formed when the oil heats up to the extent that water in
an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a
the braking system boils and air bubbles expand. Due to this, the brake lever
combination of the two.
travel can suddenly become larger.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
The bicycle is stored or transported upside down, air bubbles may form in
 brake system. Avoid pulling the brake lever, as long as the bicycle is If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have:
the
placed upside down. • a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
If the bicycle is used in this condition, there is a risk of brake failure which could
• usually a front derailleur
lead to serious accident.
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
After bringing the bicycle back into an upright position, the brake lever must be
• a drive chain
pulled a few times to check that the brakes respond normally. If the brakes do
not respond normally, they must be adjusted as follows:
a. Shifting Gears
 the brake lever parallel to the ground and pull it a few times slowly so that
Set There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist
the bubbles return to the reservoir. grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your
If the response is still bad after this, the brake system needs to be bled. dealer to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show
Consult an authorised dealer. you how they work.

B
 rake pads and brake blocks are consumable parts. Have the brake The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a
pads of hydraulic oil pressure disc brakes checked regularly by a “lower” or “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to
dealer and replaced if necessary. a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear
Removing / Refitting the Wheel derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and
Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which
It is recommended to use a brake block spacer when removing the wheel. will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift
The use of a brake block spacer can prevent the pistons falling out if the the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear
brake lever is pulled after the wheel has been removed. “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a
If the brake lever is pulled and no brake block spacer is fitted, the pistons can downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember
move as usual. Use a grease free flat blade screwdriver to push the brake that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating
blocks back, taking care not to scratch them. (If the brake blocks are not fitted, and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the
put them back in place before moving the pistons). If it is difficult to push centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.
back the brake blocks or pistons, contact an authorised dealer. Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design
 fter fitting the wheel, check whether or not the quick release lever is located
A requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some
on the right-hand side (opposite side to the brake disc). If the quick release tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
lever is located on the same side as the brake disc, there is a danger that the
lever and the brake disc could impair one another.  AUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal
C
backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam
Cleaning the Braking System the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
If the brake blocks have come into contact with oil or grease they must be repla-

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 b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur 2. How An Internal Gear Hub Drivetrain Works
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.The function of the rear If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism
derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear sprocket to another. The will consist of:
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the • a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely variable internal gear hub
higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance • one, or sometimes two shifters
with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower • one or two control cables
gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter
• one front sprocket called a chainring
distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller • a drive chain
sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving
the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
order for the derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket to another, the rider Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the
must be pedaling forward.
shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur: the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring b. Which gear should I be in?
makes pedaling harder (an upshift). The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically larg
t gear is for the greatest speed.
d. Which gear should I be in? Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or
The combination of largest rear and 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower”
smallest front gears (fig. 16) is for the gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,
steepest hills. The smallest rear and find the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for
largest front combination is for the quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling
greatest speed. It is not necessary to
— and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different
shift gears in sequence. Instead, find gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other
the “starting gear” which is right for
traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift,
your level of ability — a gear which is and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties
hard enough for quick acceleration but
with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for
easy enough to let you start from a stop
help.
without wobbling — and experiment with
upshifting and downshifting to get a feel c. What if it won’t shift gears?
for the different gear combinations. At If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift
first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the
you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting,
the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.

W
 ARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest
sprocket if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may
be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.

e. What if it won’t shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift
to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the
bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.

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 Guide to Shifting Gears

Lever b
from larger to smaller
Lever b
Lever b Initial Position
from larger to smaller chain sprocket Lever a Initial Position Lever b
chain sprocket Lever b Lever a
Lever a
Lever a from smaller to larger
Lever a from smaller to larger Lever a chain sprocket
chain sprocket If the lever movement does not produce Lever b: shifting from the middle to the
a complete change of chain sprocket, the smallest chain sprocket
Rear Front Rear Front lever must be moved again by amount
(X’) in order to execute the missing lever
movement distance (X) and thus the
Lever B Lever b
gear shift.
Lever B Lever b
Lever A Complete derailleur
Lever a Lever A Lever a
lever stroke

Lever A: Shifting to a larger rear sprocket Lever a: Shifting to a larger chain sprocket
Click position
Lever B: Shifting to a smaller rear sprocket Lever b: Shifting to a smaller chain sprocket
Stroke actually Click position
performed
All levers return to their initial position when released.

Actuating the chain guide lever Lever ‘b’ moves with lever ‘a’ when it is actuated. However, the exertion
of pressure on lever ‘b’ must be avoided. Correspondingly, the exertion
• Lever A: shifting to a larger rear • Lever B: s hifting to a smaller rear of pressure on lever ‘a’ must be avoided when actuating lever ‘b’. The
sprocket. Lever A latches sprocket. By pressing lever simultaneous actuation of both levers results in no gear shift.
in positions 1, 2, and 3. B once, gear is shifted to the
next smaller rear sprocket
Actuating the derailleur lever with trimming (noise minimization) optional
Shift procedure
Lever b: shifting from the middle to the
Lever B smallest chain sprocket
3rd click position
Lever A Initial Position
Lever A 2nd click position Initial Position
Lever B
1st click position

4 3 4 3
1: S hifting by one gear to the next Example: S hifting from 4th Lever b
Initial Position Initial Position
larger rear sprocket. Example: to 3rd gear. Lever a Lever a Lever b
Shifting from 3rd to 4th gear.

When shifting using lever b, an initial click stop marks

5 3 the start of trimming (noise prevention mechanism) and
2: S hifting by two gears to a larger
Operating Advice a second, stronger click stop marks the complete chain
rear sprocket. Example: Shifting
from 3rd to 5th gear. sprocket shift. After trimming, the next press concludes
Lever B moves with Lever A when it is actuated; Complete chain the shift sequence.
however the exertion of pressure on lever B shift lever stroke
6 3 must be avoided. Correspondingly, the exertion Complete chain shift
3: S hifting by three gears to a larger
of pressure on lever A must be avoided when lever stroke
rear sprocket. Example: Shifting
from 3rd to 6th gear.
actuating lever B. The simultaneous actuation
of both levers results in no gear shift. Click position
Stroke actually
performed Click position

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 Guide to Shifting Gears: Continued

Trimming (noise minimization)

Depending on the chain position after completion of shifting, the chain may rub
against the outer or inner chain guide plate and cause noises. In this case, press
lever ‘a’ or lever ‘b’ lightly in order to move the derailleur slightly so that it no
longer contacts the chain.
This adjustment is called ‘trimming’. Trimming is possible when the chain is
located on the large, middle or small chain sprocket. If noises occur, trim to
one of the following positions in order to completely eliminate the noises. Chain
position smaller rear sprockets small chain sprocket

Chain Indication Trimming Chain Indication Trimming

position Lever actuation Derailleur movement position Lever actuation Derailleur movement

large chain sprocket Chain touches large chain sprocket Chain touches
outer chain inner chain
guide plate guide plate
Trimming
Trimming

before trimming after trimming

Lever (a) before trimming after trimming
smaller rear outer chain smaller rear inner chain Lever (b)
derailleur movement
sprockets guide plate sprockets guide plate derailleur movement

middle chain sprocket middle chain sprocket

smaller rear smaller rear

sprockets sprockets
small chain sprocket small chain sprocket

Chain
position

Chain (contact) Chain

smaller rear smaller rear

sprockets sprockets

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 E. Pedals Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of
force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the
instructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment. Use
handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common
the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging becomes a reflex action, but
on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the
always make sure that there is sufficient tension to prevent unintended release
outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique
of your foot from the pedal.
will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
 ARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes
W
W
 ARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask
specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the foot
your dealer to help you determine if the combination of frame size,
engaged with the pedal. Do not use shoes which do not engage the
crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results in
pedals correctly.
pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the
inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until
engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique
requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a
dangerous surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure to follow
grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of the pedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the
high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level,
you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin
pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable
F. Bicycle Suspension
recommendations. Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are many different
types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read
engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If
pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the
tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. manufacturer.
While toeclips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work
most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer  ARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the
W
can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may
welts which might make it more difficult for you to insert or remove your foot cause you to lose control and fall.
should not be used with toeclips and straps.
If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also
W
 ARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps increases your risk of injury. For example, when braking, the front of a
requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if you do not have
becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which experience with this system. Learn to handle your suspension system safely.
can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. See also Section 4.C.
Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles,  ARNING: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling
W
hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never change suspension
your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension
warrants it. Never ride in traffic with your toe straps tight. system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and
always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test
keep feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. ride in a hazard-free area.
They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into
a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing the wheels to better
with a very specific motion which must be practiced until it becomes follow the terrain. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but
instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own
with the make and model pedal being used. capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed
carefully until you have learned to handle the full capabilities of your bike.
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 W
 ARNING: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types  AUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate and
C
of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings.
suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design. Failing to
do so can result in catastrophic frame failure. Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you
will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then,
G. Tires and Tubes check inflation as described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated
tires should look and feel when you don’t have access to a gauge. Some tires
1. Tires may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two, so it is important to
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from check your tire pressures before every ride.
general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread
weather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall
bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation
can help you select the most appropriate design. direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific rotate in the correct direction.
recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 17). The part
of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure. 2. Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and
W
 ARNING: Never inflate a tire the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to
beyond the maximum the valve stems on your bicycle.
pressure marked on the tire’s
sidewall. Exceeding the The Schraeder valve (fig. 18a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate
recommended maximum a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and clamp the pump
pressure may blow the tire off fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder
the rim, which could cause valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a
damage to the bike and injury key or other appropriate object.
to the rider and bystanders.
The Presta valve (fig. 18b) has a narrower diameter and is only found
The best and safest way to inflate a on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed
bicycle tire to the correct pressure bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the
is with a bicycle pump which has a valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up.
built-in pressure gauge. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a
Presta valve with a Schraeder pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter
W
 ARNING: There is a safety risk in using gas station air hoses or (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve
other air compressors. They are not made for bicycle tires. They freed up the valve. The adapter fits into the Schraeder pump fitting. Close the
move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock
your tire very rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode. nut and depress the valve stem.

Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How  ARNING: We highly recommend that you carry a spare inner tube
W
a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely when you ride your bike. Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If
on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure you do not apply the patch correctly or apply several patches, the
gives the lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High tube can fail, resulting in possible tube failure, which could cause you
pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. to loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as possible.

Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the
best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on
deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause
a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the
inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
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 5. Service Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify some things
that need readjustment. But even if everything seems fine to you, it’s best to
take your bike back to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically suggest you
W
 ARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle
bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time
components more complex, and the pace of innovation is increasing.
for the first checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard
It is impossible for this manual to provide all the information required
off-road use, or about 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use.
to properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle. In order to help
But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer before
minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical
riding it again.
that you have any repair or maintenance which is not specifically
described in this manual performed by your dealer. Equally important 2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
is that your individual maintenance requirements will be determined 3. A
 fter every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or
by everything from your riding style to geographic location. Consult at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly lubricate the chain’s rollers
your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements. with a good quality bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant with a
lint-free cloth. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about
W
 ARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special
the best lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on
your bicycle until you have learned from your dealer how to properly 4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding:
complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage • Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel
to the bicycle or in an accident which can cause serious injury or death. solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the
bike, you probably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike:
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Feel
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installation and service smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have
instructions for the components on your bike, or contact the component a tight headset. Have your dealer check it.
manufacturer.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike;
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair. then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair courses in your area. dealer check it.
• Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel
We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work the rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them.
first time you work on something and before you ride the bike, just to make sure
that you did everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, • Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks?
there may be a modest charge for this service. Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel
We also recommend that you ask your dealer for guidance on what spare between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If
parts, such as inner tubes, light bulbs, etc. it would be appropriate for you any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness.
to have once you have learned how to replace such parts when they require
replacement. • Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have your dealer replace
them if necessary.
A. Service Intervals • check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and scratches. Consult
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner, and your dealer if you see any rim damage.
require no special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual. • Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, and
The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself. tighten any which are not.
All other service, maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly • Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; the
equipped facility by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or
procedures specified by the manufacturer. discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that
a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in Appendix B.
before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat”
when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by your dealer.

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 W
 ARNING: Like any mechanical device, a bicycle and its components
are subject to wear and stress. Different materials and mechanisms
Appendix A
wear or fatigue from stress at different rates and have different life
cycles. If a component’s life cycle is exceeded, the component can
Intended use of your bicycle
suddenly and catastrophically fail, causing serious injury or death to  ARNING: Understand your bike and its intended use. Choosing the
W
the rider. Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration are signs of wrong bicycle for your purpose can be hazardous. Using your bike
stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its the wrong way is dangerous.
useful life and needs to be replaced. While the materials and
workmanship of your bicycle or of individual components may be No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer can help you
covered by a warranty for a specified period of time by the pick the “right tool for the job” and help you understand its limitations. There
manufacturer, this is no guarantee that the product will last the term are many types of bicycles and many variations within each type. There are
of the warranty. Product life is often related to the kind of riding you many types of mountain, road, racing, hybrid, touring, cyclocross and tandem
do and to the treatment to which you submit the bicycle. The bicycle’s bicycles.
warranty is not meant to suggest that the bicycle cannot be broken or
will last forever. It only means that the bicycle is covered subject to There are also bicycles that mix features. For example, there are road/racing
the terms of the warranty. Please be sure to read Appendix A, bikes with triple cranks. These bikes have the low gearing of a touring bike, the
Intended Use of your bicycle and Appendix B, The lifespan of your quick handling of a racing bike, but are not well suited for carrying heavy loads
bike and its components, starting on page 43. on a tour. For that purpose you want a touring bike.
Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize for certain purposes. Visit your
5. As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section bicycle shop and find someone with expertise in the area that interests you. Do
1.C), don’t ride the bike. Have your dealer check the brakes. your own homework. Seemingly small changes such as the choice of tires can
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is improve or diminish the performance of a bicycle for a certain purpose.
out of adjustment. See your dealer. On the following pages, we generally outline the intended uses of various types
6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike to your of bikes.
dealer for a complete checkup. Industry usage conditions are generalized and evolving. Consult your
dealer about how you intend to use your bike.

B. If your bicycle sustains an impact: High-Performance Road

First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek CONDITION 1
medical help if necessary. Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires
Next, check your bike for damage. do not lose ground contact.
After any crash, take your bike to your dealer for a thorough check. Carbon INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only.
composite components, including fames, wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, NOT INTENDED For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with
brakes, etc. which have sustained an impact must not be ridden until they have racks or panniers.
been disassembled and thoroughly inspected by a qualified mechanic.
See also Appendix B, Lifespan of your bike and its components. TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver both light
weight and specific performance. You must understand that (1) these types
W
 ARNING: A crash or other impact can put extraordinary stress on of bikes are intended to give an aggressive racer or competitive cyclist a
bicycle components, causing them to fatigue prematurely. performance advantage over a relatively short product life, (2) a less aggressive
Components suffering from stress fatigue can fail suddenly and rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing light weight (shorter
catastrophically, causing loss of control, serious injury or death. frame life) over more frame weight and a longer frame life, (4) you are choosing
light weight over more dent resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All
frames that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames are likely to
be damaged or broken in a crash. They are not designed to take abuse or be a
rugged workhorse. See also Appendix B.

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 MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT NOT INTENDED For Hardcore Freeriding, Extreme Downhill, Dirt Jumping,
Slopestyle, or very aggressive or extreme riding. No spending time in the air
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg TRADE OFF Cross-Country bikes are lighter, faster to ride uphill, and more
275 / 125 10 / 4.5 285 / 129 nimble than All-Mountain bikes. Cross-Country and Marathon bikes trade off
some ruggedness for pedaling efficiency and uphill speed.
* Seat Bag /Handlebar Bag Only

General Purpose Riding MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT

CONDITION 2 RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL

Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the
tires do not lose ground contact. 300 / 136 5 /2.3 305 / 138
INTENDED For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in * Seat Bag Only
good condition, and bike paths. Front suspension frames manufactured
with original equipment seat stay and
NOT INTENDED For off-road or mountain bike use, or for dropout rack mounts only
any kind of jumping. Some of these bikes have suspension features, but these
300 / 136 55 / 25 355 / 161
features are designed to add comfort, not off-road capability. Some come with
relatively wide tires that are well suited to gravel or dirt paths. Some come with
relatively narrow tires that are best suited to faster riding on pavement. If you
ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier loads or want more tire durability talk All Mountain
to your dealer about wider tires.
CONDITION 4
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1, 2, and 3, plus rough
technical areas, moderately sized obstacles, and small jumps.
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
INTENDED For trail and uphill riding. All-Mountain bicycles
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg are: (1) more heavy duty than cross country bikes, but less
300 / 136 30 / 14 285 / 129 heavy duty than Freeride bikes, (2) lighter and more nimble
than Freeride bikes, (3) heavier and have more suspension
for Touring or Trekking
travel than a cross country bike, allowing them to be ridden in more difficult
300 / 136 55 / 25 355 / 161 terrain, over larger obstacles and moderate jumps, (4) intermediate in
suspension travel and use components that fit the intermediate intended use, (5)
cover a fairly wide range of intended use, and within this range are models that
Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails are more or less heavy duty. Talk to your retailer about your needs and these
models.
CONDITION 3
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus rough NOT INTENDED For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore
trails, small obstacles, and smooth technical areas, including mountain, Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping, Hucking etc. No large
areas where momentary loss of tire contact with the ground drop offs, jumps or launches (wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring
may occur. NOT jumping. All mountain bikes without rear long suspension travel or heavy duty components; and no spending time in the
suspension are Condition 3, and so are some lightweight rear air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
suspension models. TRADE OFF All-Mountain bikes are more rugged than cross country bikes, for
INTENDED For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild to riding more difficult terrain. All-Mountain bikes are heavier and harder to ride
aggressive over intermediate terrain (e.g., hilly with small obstacles like roots, uphill than cross country bikes. All-Mountain bikes are lighter, more nimble and
rocks, loose surfaces and hard pack and depressions). Cross-country and easier to ride uphill than Freeride bikes. All-Mountain bikes are not as rugged as
marathon equipment (tires, shocks, frames, drive trains) are light-weight, Freeride bikes and must not be used for more extreme riding and terrain.
favoring nimble speed over brute force. Suspension travel is relatively short
since the bike is intended to move quickly on the ground.

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 MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT Dirt Jump
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
aggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat
300 / 136 5 / 2.3 305 / 138 surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous
and puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may
* Seat Bag Only overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride
in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill precautions such as more frequent bike inspections and
replacement of equipment. You should also wear comprehensive safety
CONDITION 5
equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor.
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or
aggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat INTENDED For man-made dirt jumps, ramps, skate parks other predictable
surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous obstacles and terrain where riders need and use skill and bike control, rather
and puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may than suspension. Dirt Jumping bikes are used much like heavy duty BMX bikes.
overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride A Dirt Jumping bike does not give you skills to jump. Read Section 2. F, p. 10.
in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety NOT INTENDED For terrain, drop offs or landings where large amounts of
precautions such as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of suspension travel are needed to help absorb the shock of landing and help
equipment. You should also wear comprehensive safety equipment such as a full- maintain control.
face helmet, pads, and body armor.
TRADE OFF Dirt Jumping bikes are lighter and more nimble than Freeride
INTENDED For riding that includes the most difficult terrain that only very skilled bikes, but they have no rear suspension and the suspension travel in the front is
riders should attempt. much shorter.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill are terms which describe hardcore mountain,
north shore, slopestyle. This is “extreme” riding and the terms describing it are MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
constantly evolving. RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill bikes are: (1) heavier and have more suspension lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
travel than All-Mountain bikes, allowing them to be ridden in more difficult
300 / 136 0 300 / 136
terrain, over larger obstacles and larger jumps, (2) the longest in suspension
travel and use components that fit heavy duty intended use. While all that is
true, there is no guarantee that extreme riding will not break a Freeride bike.
The terrain and type of riding that Freeride bikes are designed for is inherently Cyclo-Cross
dangerous. Appropriate equipment, such as a Freeride bike, does not change CONDITION 2
this reality. In this kind of riding, bad judgment, bad luck, or riding beyond Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
your capabilities can easily result in an accident, where you could be seriously roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the
injured, paralyzed or killed. tires do not lose ground contact.
NOT INTENDED To be an excuse to try anything. Read Section 2. F, p. 10. INTENDED For cyclo-cross riding, training and racing. Cyclo-
TRADE OFF Freeride bikes are more rugged than All-Mountain bikes, for riding cross involves riding on a variety of terrain and surfaces
more difficult terrain. Freeride bikes are heavier and harder to ride uphill than including dirt or mud surfaces. Cyclo-cross bikes also work
All-Mountain bikes. well for all weather rough road riding and commuting.
NOT INTENDED For off road or mountain bike use, or jumping. Cyclo-cross
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
riders and racers dismount before reaching an obstacle, carry their bike over
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL the obstacle and then remount. Cyclo-cross bikes are not intended for mountain
bike use. The relatively large road bike size wheels are faster than the smaller
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
mountain bike wheels, but not as strong.
300 / 136 5 / 2.3 305 / 138

* Seat Bag Only

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 MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
Appendix B
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
The Lifespan of Your Bike and Its Components
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 30 / 13.6 330 / 150 1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike.
When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is
hazardous.
Road Tandems
Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The
CONDITION 1 length of that life will vary with the construction and materials used in the
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires frame and components; the maintenance and care the frame and components
do not lose ground contact. receive over their life; and the type and amount of use to which the frame and
INTENDED Are designed to be ridden on paved roads only. components are subjected. Use in competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding,
They are not designed for mountain biking or off-road use. jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates,
riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types of non-standard
NOT INTENDED Road tandem should not be taken off-road
use can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and components. Any one or a
or used as a mountain tandem.
combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components
will usually have a shorter life than heavier bicycles and their components.
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL In selecting a lightweight bicycle or components you are making a tradeoff,
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg favoring the higher performance that comes with lighter weight over longevity.
500 / 227 75 / 34 575 / 261 So, If you choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be sure to have it
inspected frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by
your dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks,
Mountain Tandems deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of
potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety
CONDITION 2
checks and very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
and shortened product life.
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the
tires do not lose ground contact.
2. Perspective
INTENDED The challenges of mountain biking are obvious.
Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection and
The added challenges of tandem riding mean that you should
service. In this Appendix we try to explain some underlying material science
limit off-road tandem riding to easy-moderate terrain.
basics and how they relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-offs
NOT INTENDED For very aggressive mountain bike riding. made in designing your bicycle and what you can expect from your bicycle; and
Mountain tandems are most definitely NOT for Downhill, Freeriding, North Shore. we provide important, basic guidelines on how to maintain and inspect it. We
Choose terrain with the abilities of both the Tandem’s captain and stoker in mind. cannot teach you everything you need to know to properly inspect and service
your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to your
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT dealer for professional care and attention.
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
 ARNING: Frequent inspection of your bike is important to your
W
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
safety. Follow the Mechanical Safety Check in Section 1.C of this
500 / 227 75 / 34 575 / 261 Manual before every ride.
Periodic, more detailed inspection of your bicycle is important. How often
this more detailed inspection is needed depends upon you.
You, the rider/owner, have control and knowledge of how often you use
your bike, how hard you use it and where you use it. Because your dealer

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 cannot track your use, you must take responsibility for periodically bringing fork may be severely bent and the frame undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile
your bike to your dealer for inspection and service. Your dealer will help than steel, but you can expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit
you decide what frequency of inspection and service is appropriate for how harder and the top tube may be broken in tension and the down tube buckled.
and where you use your bike. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken, the down tube buckled and broken,
For your safety, understanding and communication with your dealer, we leaving the head tube and fork separated from the main triangle.
urge you to read this Appendix in its entirety. The materials used to make When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some evidence of this ductility
your bike determine how and how frequently to inspect. in bent, buckled or folded metal.
Ignoring this WARNING can lead to frame, fork or other component failure, It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork of carbon
which can result in serious injury or death. fiber. See Section B, Understanding composites below. The relative ductility of
metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash scenario
A. Understanding metals you can expect some bending or bucking in the metal but none in the carbon.
Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It has good Below some load the carbon fork may be intact even though the frame is
characteristics, but in high performance bicycles, steel has been largely replaced damaged. Above some load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
by aluminum and some titanium. The main factor driving this change is interest
by cycling enthusiasts in lighter bicycles. The basics of metal fatigue
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever. The more you use
Properties of Metals something, and the harder you use it, and the worse the conditions you use it in,
Please understand that there is no simple statement that can be made that the shorter its life.
characterizes the use of different metals for bicycles. What is true is how the
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to a part caused by
metal chosen is applied is much more important than the material alone. One
repeated loading. To cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives must
must look at the way the bike is designed, tested, manufactured, supported
be great enough. A crude, often-used example is bending a paper clip back
along with the characteristics of the metal rather than seeking a simplistic answer.
and forth (repeated loading) until it breaks. This simple definition will help you
Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion. Steel must be protected or understand that fatigue has nothing to do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage
rust will attack it. Aluminum and Titanium quickly develop an oxide film that does not fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
protects the metal from further corrosion. Both are therefore quite resistant to
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On a microscopic level, a crack
corrosion. Aluminum is not perfectly corrosion resistant, and particular care must
forms in a highly stressed area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack
be used where it contacts other metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it
Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling and becomes so large that the part is too weak to carry the load that it could carry
stretching before breaking. Generally speaking, of the common bicycle frame without the crack. At that point there can be a complete and immediate failure of
building materials steel is the most ductile, titanium less ductile, followed by the part.
aluminum.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is nearly infinite. This
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. Steel weighs 7.8 requires a lot of material and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be light
grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum and strong will have a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all have
2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 parts with finite fatigue lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue life,
grams/cm3. it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold today. So we all make a tradeoff:
Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles of use, at high enough loads, the wonderful, lightweight performance we want requires that we inspect the
metals will eventually develop cracks that lead to failure. It is very important that structure.
you read The basics of metal fatigue below. What to look for
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or other object. At any • ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND SIMPLE RULE 1 : If you find
speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, momentum GROW FAST. Think about the crack as forming a crack, replace the part.
carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike, pathway to failure. This means that any crack is
potentially dangerous and will only become more
and what happens to the frame, fork and other components is irrelevant to what
dangerous.
happens to your body.
• CORROSSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow SIMPLE RULE 2 : Clean your
What should you expect from your metal frame? It depends on many complex more quickly when they are in a corrosive environ- bike, lubricate your bike,
factors, which is why we tell you that crashworthiness cannot be a design ment. Think about the corrosive solution as further protect your bike from salt,
criteria. With that important note, we can tell you that if the impact is hard weakening and extending the crack. remove any salt as soon as
enough the fork or frame may be bent or buckled. On a steel bike, the steel you can.

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 • STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEAR SIMPLE RULE 3 : Inspect and  ARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack, bulge
W
A CRACK. Such staining may be a warning sign that investigate any staining to see or dent, even a small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component
a crack exists. if it is associated with a crack. could lead to complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.
• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS SIMPLE RULE 4 : Do not
B. Understanding composites
OR SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS FOR scratch, gouge or score any
CRACKS. Think about the cut surface as a focal point surface. If you do, pay fre-
All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite
for stress (in fact engineers call such areas “stress quent attention to this area or materials constructed of carbon fibers are strong and light, but when crashed or
risers,” areas where the stress is increased). Perhaps replace the part. overloaded, carbon fibers do not bend, they break.
you have seen glass cut? Recall how the glass was
scored and then broke on the scored line. What Are Composites?
The term “composites” refers to the fact that a part or parts are made up of
• SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE SIMPLE RULE 5 : Investi-
CREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE. Think about such gate and find the source of different components or materials. You’ve heard the term “carbon fiber bike.”
a noise as a serious warning signal. Note that a any noise. It may not a be a This really means “composite bike.”
well-maintained bicycle will be very quiet and free of crack, but whatever is caus- Carbon fiber composites are typically a strong, light fiber in a matrix of plastic,
creaks and squeaks. ing the noise should be fixed
molded to form a shape. Carbon composites are light relative to metals. Steel
promptly.
weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3,
aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite
In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that the part has been at 1.45 grams/cm3.
worn out, a sign the part has reached the end of its useful life. When your car
tires wear down to the point that the tread bars are contacting the road, those The composites with the best strength-to-weight ratios are made of carbon fiber
tires are not defective. Those tires are worn out and the tread bar says “time in a matrix of epoxy plastic. The epoxy matrix bonds the carbon fibers together,
for replacement.” When a metal part shows a fatigue crack, it is worn out. The transfers load to other fibers, and provides a smooth outer surface. The carbon
crack says “time for replacement.” fibers are the “skeleton” that carries the load.

Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science Why Are Composites Used?

Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here are some general Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all directions (engineers call this
factors to help you and your dealer determine how often your bicycle should be isotropic), carbon fibers can be placed in specific orientations to optimize the
inspected. The more you fit the “shorten product life” profile, the more frequent structure for particular loads. The choice of where to place the carbon fibers
your need to inspect. The more you fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the less gives engineers a powerful tool to create strong, light bicycles. Engineers may
frequent your need to inspect. also orient fibers to suit other goals such as comfort and vibration damping.
Carbon fiber composites are very corrosion resistant, much more so than
Factors that shorten product life: most metals.
 Hard, harsh riding style Think about carbon fiber or fiberglass boats.
 “Hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
Carbon fiber materials have a very high strength-to-weight ratio.
 High mileage
 Higher body weight
What Are The Limits Of Composites?
 Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider
Well designed “composite” or carbon fiber bicycles and components have long
 Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road salt,
fatigue lives, usually better than their metal equivalents.
accumulated sweat)
 Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding environment While fatigue life is an advantage of carbon fiber, you must still regularly inspect
your carbon fiber frame, fork, or components.
Factors that lengthen product life:
Carbon fiber composites are not ductile. Once a carbon structure is overloaded,
 Smooth, fluid riding style
it will not bend; it will break. At and near the break, there will be rough, sharp
 No “hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
edges and maybe delamination of carbon fiber or carbon fiber fabric layers.
 Low mileage
There will be no bending, buckling, or stretching.
 Lower body weight
 Less aggressive rider
 Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)
 Clean riding environment

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 If You Hit Something Or Have A Crash, What Can You Expect From Your C. Understanding components
Carbon Fiber Bike?
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order to
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, other cyclist or other object. At properly and carefully inspect them. This is a job for a professional bicycle
any speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, the mechanic with the special tools, skills and experience to inspect and service
momentum carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not today’s high-tech high-performance bicycles and their components.
stay on the bike and what happens to the frame, fork and other components is
Aftermarket “Super Light” components
irrelevant to what happens to your body.
Think carefully about your rider profile as outlined above. The more you fit the
What should you expect from your carbon frame? It depends on many complex
“shorten product life” profile, the more you must question the use of super light
factors. But we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough, the fork or frame
components. The more you fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the more likely
may be completely broken. Note the significant difference in behavior between
it is that lighter components may be suitable for you. Discuss your needs and
carbon and metal. See Section 2. A, Understanding metals in this Appendix.
your profile very honestly with your dealer.
Even if the carbon frame was twice as strong as a metal frame, once the carbon
Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for the
frame is overloaded it will not bend, it will break completely.
changes.
Inspection of Composite Frame, Fork, and Components
A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplate changing
Cracks: components is “Strong, Light, Cheap – pick two.”
Inspect for cracks, broken, or splintered areas. Any crack is serious. Do not ride Original Equipment components
any bicycle or component that has a crack of any size. Delamination: Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life of the components
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are made from layers of fabric. that are original equipment on your bike. This means that they have met test
Delamination means that the layers of fabric are no longer bonded together. Do criteria and have reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the original
not ride any bicycle or component that has any delamination. These are some components will last forever. They won’t.
delamination clues:
1. • A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks different from the ordinary
undamaged areas. Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny, or “deep,” as if
one was looking into a clear liquid. Delaminated areas will look opaque and
cloudy.
2. • Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs, the surface shape may
change. The surface may have a bump, a bulge, soft spot, or not be smooth
and fair.
3. • A difference in sound when tapping the surface. If you gently tap the surface
of an undamaged composite you will hear a consistent sound, usually
a hard, sharp sound. If you then tap a delaminated area, you will hear a
different sound, usually duller, less sharp.

Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking noises while riding. Think
about such a noise as a serious warning signal. A well maintained bicycle will be
very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks. Investigate and find the source of any
noise. It may not be a crack or delamination, but whatever is causing the noise
must be fixed before riding.

W
 ARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any
delamination or crack. Riding a delaminated or cracked frame, fork
or other component could lead to complete failure, with risk of
serious injury or death.

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 Appendix C
Coaster Brake
1. How the coaster brake works
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s rear
wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks
(see fig. 5). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the
front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot pressure
on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake.
The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point
where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.

W
 ARNING: Before riding, make sure that the brake is working
properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle checked by
your dealer before you ride it.

W
 ARNING: If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively. A
single rear brake does not have the stopping power of front-and-rear
brake systems.

2. Adjusting your coaster brake

Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special
knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake.
Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.

62 Focus Bicycles - Bicycle Owner’s Manual Appendix C - Coaster Brake 63

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 Appendix D
Bicycle Inspection Plan
When Maintenance/Check When Maintenance/Check
50 miles after Check and inspect Each time after Clean and lubricate the
purchase, after that Tires and wheels it rains gear shifters brakes
at least once a year Have the tightening torques
bicycle chain
of the following checked:
handlebar pedals
pedal cranks saddle Technical Data
seat post and screws Total permissible weight of the bicycle
Have the following The total permissible weight of the bicycle comprises the weight of the bicycle,
components adjusted: the weight of the rider and the weight of the luggage.
headset gear shifters
brakes suspension
elements Bicycle type Total permissible weight

After each use Check and inspect 20” trailer 110 lbs
of the bicycle spokes tires for objects 20” child’s bicycle 132 lbs
wheel rims for wear and roundness 24” child’s bicycle 176 lbs
quick releases brakes
gear shifters and suspension MTB and racing cycle 243 lbs
function City and trekking bike 265 lbs
lights bell Touring bicycle 308 lbs
After every 250 miles Have the following checked for
wear and have them replaced if Permissible carrier load
necessary:
Observe possible differing data on your carrier or in
bicycle chain rear sprockets
the manufacturer’s specifications.
chain sprockets wheel rims
brake pads
Clean the bicycle chain, rear Maximum load of the rear carrier:
sprockets and chain sprockets.
Lubricate the chain with 20” child’s bicycle and trailer 22 lbs
chain grease. 24” child’s bicycle 40 lbs
Check that all screws are tight. Touring, city, trekking bike, ATB 55 lbs

After 600 miles Have the brake hub checked Maximum load of the front carrier:
and the brake pads replaced if
Loading surface above the front wheel 22 lbs
necessary.
Low lying loading surface 40 lbs
After 2000 miles Have the
hubs headset
pedals gear shift cables
brake cables
dismantled, checked, cleaned,
lubricated and replaced by a dealer
if necessary

64 Focus Bicycles - Bicycle Owner’s Manual Appendix D - Bicycle Inspection Plan 65

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 Appendix E In the case of carbon parts, observe any differing information or
marking regarding the recommended torque.
Tightening Torques/Tire Pressure/Lighting Systems
General tightening torques of screws, nuts and bolts
Tightening torques of screws, nuts and bolts
The screw quality is stamped on the screw head, e.g. 8.8. If the manufacturer’s
specifications do not differ, the following torques (average values) apply,
U
 se only suitable tools for tightening screwed components, e.g.
depending on the screw quality. Not all values can be applied to other
torque wrench, otherwise the screws may shear off.
manufacturers’ components. Read the component manufacturer’s specifications
or observe the torque specifications marked on the components.
P
 arts may be damaged if the screws are over-tightened.
Tightening torques of Shimano components:
Always observe the specified torque.
Article Specification Tightening Torque
Observe the minimum screw depth. In the case of hard aluminium alloys this
must be minimum 1.4 x screw diameter (e.g. nominal diameter M 5 x 1.4 = 7 mm). Rear derailleur (RD) Fixing bolts (derailleur hanger) 8 Nm
Inner cable fixing screw 5 Nm
 ll screws, nuts and bolts that are relevant to safety should be tightened
A
with a torque wrench. This indicates the corresponding torque in Nm Gear shifter roller fixing screw 3 Nm
(Newton meter). Front Derailleur (FD) Clip fixing screw 5 Nm
Regarding tightening torques refer to the following priorities: Inner cable fixing screw 5 Nm
1st priority: torques that are printed on components by the manufacturer Derailleur on Clip fixing screw 3 Nm*
2nd priority: torques that you can find in the manufacturers manuals Carbon Frame (FD)
3rd priority: torques that you can find in the following list
4th priority torques that are printed on the screws, nuts and bolts heads Gear shift lever (STI/SL) Fixing screws 6 Nm
Gear shift lever on Fixing screw 3 Nm
Screwed Components Tightening Torque
Carbon handlebar
Pedal crankset, steel 30 Nm
V-brake (BR) Fixing screw (welded socket) 5 Nm
Pedal crankset, aluminium 30 Nm
Inner cable fixing screw 6 Nm
Pedals 30Nm
Brake pad fixing bolt 8 Nm
Wheel, front 25 Nm
Wheel, rear 40 Nm Caliper brake (BR) Fixing screw 5 Nm
Stem clamp spindle 15 Nm Inner cable fixing screw 6 Nm
A-head clamping screw 9 Nm Brake pad fixing bolt 8 Nm
Seat post clamp screw M8 20 Nm Cantilever brake (BR) Fixing screw (welded socket) 5 Nm
Seat post clamp screw M6 14 Nm Inner cable fixing screw 6 Nm
Saddle support clamp 20 Nm Brake pad fixing bolt 8 Nm
Dynamo mounting 10 Nm Brake Lever Clip fixing screw 6 Nm
The following are different for carbon frames Brake lever on Fixing screw 3 Nm
Derailleur clamp fixing screw 3 Nm* Rear wheel hub (FH) Freewheeling body fixing screws 40 Nm
Gear shoft lever fixing screw 3 Nm*
Inner bearing (BB) BB cup right and left 50 Nm
Brake lever fixing screw 3 Nm*
Inner bearing (BB) Plastic BB cup right and left 30 Nm
Clamp, handlebar - handlebar stem 5 Nm*
Inner bearing (BB) BB cup right and left 50 Nm
Clamp, handlebar - fork shaft 4 Nm*
*We recommend the use of plastic mounting paste under the components

66 Focus Bicycles - Bicycle Owner’s Manual Appendix E - Tightening Torques/Tire Pressure/Lighting Systems 67

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 Tightening torques of Shimano components: Continued Lighting Systems
Article Specification Tightening Torque Type Power supply

Crank assembly (FC) Crank arm fixing screw 35 Nm Headlamp, neon bulb 6 Volt 2.4 Watt
Chain sprocket fixing screw 10 Nm Headlamp, halogen 6 Volt 2.4 Watt HS3
Rear light w/parking light 6 Volt 0.6 Watt
Pedals (FC) Pedal axle 35 Nm
Rear light 6 Volt 0.6 Watt
Cassettes (HG) Fixing ring 30 Nm Rear light, D-toplight plus diode carrier rear light
Quick release see page 7 w/LEDs (no bulb)
*We recommend the use of plastic mounting paste under the components Dynamo, right/left-hand 6 Volt 3 Watt
Hub dynamo 6 Volt 3 Watt
Tires and tire pressure
 bserve any differing manufacturer’s specifications. The tires and inner
O
tubes could otherwise be damaged.prerequisite in case of warranty
claims.
Conversion table Bar - PSI:
Tire width Recommended Tire Pressure
20mm 9.0 Bar 130 psi
23mm 8.0 Bar 115 psi
25mm 7.0 Bar 100 psi
28mm 6.0 Bar 85 psi
30mm 5.5 Bar 80 psi
32mm 5.0 Bar 70 psi
35mm 4.5 Bar 65 psi
37mm 4.5 Bar 65 psi
40mm 4.0 Bar 55 psi
42mm 4.0 Bar 55 psi
44mm 3.5 Bar 50 psi
47mm 3.5 Bar 50 psi
50mm 3.0 Bar 45 psi
54mm 2.5 Bar 35 psi
57mm 2.2 Bar 32 psi
60mm 2.0 Bar 30 psi

68 Focus Bicycles - Bicycle Owner’s Manual Appendix E - Tightening Torques/Tire Pressure/Lighting Systems 69

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 Copyright © 2009 Derby Cycle Werke GmbH
Reprinting, also of extracts, only with the permission of Derby Cycle Werke GmbH.
Printing errors, mistakes and technical changes reserved

70 Focus Bicycles - Bicycle Owner’s Manual

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