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Indoor Furniture
Dave Campbell
Editorial Content Chief, WOOD magazine

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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®
http://www.woodonline.com

compact
entertainment center

L
ooking for a space-saving
cabinet to hold your TV,
electronic components,
videos, and CDs? Let this handsome
unit, made from red oak and red oak
plywood, steal the show. Though it
measures only 23‡" deep × 44"
long × 26" high, it has spacious
drawers that hold a total of about
110 DVDs or 70 videotapes, and
a glass-door enclosed area with
adjustable shelves for components.
The entertainment center accepts
TVs up to 42" wide and 23" deep.
Need even more storage for your
videos and CDs? Check out the
companion media storage cabinet,
Deep, dual-shelf drawers with full-extension slides A back with roller catches literally unlatches in presented in issue 160, or go to
hold loads of easily accessible media. a snap for easy and organized wiring connections. woodmagazine.com/mediastorage.

DP-00474 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2005 Page 1 of 17

Start with the easy-to-make of the foot halves. This will prevent the crosscut pieces to the lengths shown on
biscuit-joined base cutter from going through the outside Drawing 2 plus fi" for the back edge of

1front/back
From ‡"-thick stock (we used red
oak), cut the side rails (A) and
rails (B) to the sizes listed
faces. Remove the patterns from the
foot halves using a cloth moistened
with paint thinner.
both panels and the front edge and ends
of the bottom panel, noting the mitered
front corners. (Cutting all edging fi"
in the Materials List. Draw the curves
on the rails, where dimensioned on
Drawing 1, using a fairing stick. (For a
5 Glue, biscuit, and assemble the
beveled edges of the mating left
and right foot halves together, keeping
longer than the finished lengths allows
you to trim the pieces to exact lengths
for flush ends and tight miter joints.)
simple and free fairing stick plan, go to
woodmagazine.com/fairing.) Bandsaw
and sand the curves smooth.
the ends flush and the joints tight. After
the glue dries, assemble the feet to the
ends of the side rails (A) with biscuits,
3 Glue and clamp the edging,
centered, to the back edges of both
panels. After the glue dries, trim the

2 To form the foot halves (C), cut

from ‡"-thick stock two 2fi×22"
blanks. Angle your tablesaw blade 45°.
using ‡" scrap as a straightedge to
keep the outside faces of the feet and
rails flush, as shown in Photo A. Now
edging flush with the plywood ends. For
an easy way to do this, see the Shop
Tip, page 4. Then glue and clamp the
Then bevel-rip one edge of each blank assemble the side rail/feet assemblies edging to the front edge and ends of the
to the finished foot width of 2‹". Now to the front/back rails (B) to complete bottom panel, verifying tight mitered
crosscut four 4fi"-long foot halves the base, again using straightedges to front corners. Again, after the glue
from each blank. keep the parts aligned and the base dries, trim the end edging flush with the

3 Make four copies each of the full-

size left and right foot-half patterns
on page 17. Spray-adhere the patterns to
square. Sand the base to 220 grit, and
set it aside.
back edging.

4 From ‡"-thick stock, cut the top-

panel trim blank (F) to the size
the foot halves, making sure you align Next up: the edging blanks listed. Then bevel-rip the bottom face
the noted pattern edge with the beveled and top/bottom panels of the blank at 20°, where dimensioned
edge on each piece. Then bandsaw and
sand the angled side on each piece to
the pattern line.
1blanksFrom ‡"-thick stock, rip nine
‡×96" pieces for the edging
(D). 5
on Drawing 2a. Sand the bevel smooth.
Crossut pieces from the trim blank
to the lengths shown on Drawing 2

4 Using your biscuit joiner, plunge

slots for #10 biscuits in the foot
halves (C), where shown on the patterns,
Note: Many of the plywood panels
for the entertainment center have
edging. Save considerable time by
(plus fi") to fit the ends and front
edge of the top panel (E), again noting
the mitered front corners. Using the
and in the ends of the rails (A, B), where preparing the edging blanks now same process as for the edging (D),
shown on Drawing 1. When cutting the and crosscutting them to the needed apply the trim to the panel, and cut the
slots in the beveled edges of the foot lengths as you build the project. end trim flush with the back edging.
halves, angle your biscuit-joiner fence
to 45° and adjust the height to position
the slot cutter ¤" from the inside faces
2 From ‡" red oak plywood, cut the
top/bottom panels (E) to 21fi×41".
Then, from the edging blanks (D),
Then sand the edging and trim on the
top and bottom panels flush with the
plywood faces.

glue the feet to the side rails 6 To form ›" partial round-overs on
the bottom panel edging (D), where
shown on Drawings 2 and 2b, chuck
a ›" round-over bit in your table-
mounted router. Round over the top
and bottom edges of the side and then
the front edging.

A
7 Position the bottom panel (D/E)
on a flat surface with the bottom
face up. Then glue and clamp the base
assembly (A/B/C) to the panel, flush
with the back of the rear edging (D) and
centered side-to-side.
C
Build and mount the
cases to the panels

‡" scrap
1twoFrom ‡" oak plywood, cut the sides
(G) and tops/bottoms (H) for the
cases to the sizes listed. From an
straightedge
edging blank (D), crosscut four pieces
C to the lengths needed for the front
A edges of the tops/bottoms (H), where
shown on Drawing 3. As before, apply,
Glue, biscuit, and clamp the feet (C) to the ends of the side rails (A). trim, and sand the edging.
Use ‡" scrap as a straightedge to keep the parts aligned.

Page 2 of 17
 1 base

22fi"
A B
C 37"
2" #10 biscuit slot ¤"
B
C

‡" 2‡"
C
2‡"
18" A
2"
45° bevels

Biscuit slot centered on end

C C 4fi"

fi"
1fi"
2‹" #10 biscuit

Page 3 of 17
 SHOP TIP
A simple jig makes it easy to flush-trim edging ends
Ever tried to trim edging flush with an end or edge of a plywood panel and accidentally cut into the panel?
With the jig shown below, you’ll quickly trim all of the entertainment center edging perfectly flush, eliminating
alignment guesswork and miscuts.

edging flush-trimming jig

Step 1: Make the jig from ‡"-thick scrap, HANDLE
cutting the 1‹×1fi" notch in the base, where 9"
dimensioned. (You’ll cut the fi"-long kerf in
the base in the next step.) Note that for other fi"-long kerf 2" ¸" shank hole,
projects, you may need to change the loca-
tion of the notch and length of the jig, de- countersunk on
pending on the sizes of the panels. 1‹ x 1fi" bottom face
notch
7‡" ‡"
BASE
1‹" 1fi" 4‹"
19"
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw

Notched edge of jig Workpiece

aligned with outside tight against
face of blade 2"-wide Opposing jig
scrap for edging
aligning located in
jig to notch
blade Edging overhanging
front of jig
fi"-long
FILENAME:165TvStandJig.eps
Date:zero-clearance
5-05 kerf
Lorna J.
Step 2: With the saw off, position your tablesaw Step 3: Place your workpiece tight against the
fence to align the notched edge of the jig with the jig with the edging pieces overhanging the front
outside face of the blade. To verify precise align- end and extending into the notch, as shown.
ment, hold a 2"-wide piece of ‡" scrap against the (For panels measuring more than 19" in width or
jig, extending the front end by about 1". Cut a fi"- length, let the edging overhang both ends of the
long kerf in the jig, as shown. Examine the edge of jig.) Flush-trim the front edging, stopping when
the 2"-wide scrap, and make sure you don’t see the blade enters the clearance kerf. (To maintain
any saw marks. If you do, adjust the fence, and proper workpiece support, do not cut deeper into
test again. the kerf.) Now flip the panel and trim the opposing
edging.
Page 4 of 17
 20° bevel TOP
F 41"
Mitered ends D
E 41"
‡"
BB 21fi" ¸" shank hole,
F countersunk on bottom
44" F face, with a mating
Roller- 23‡" 7⁄64" pilot hole
3fi"
1 exploded view 3fi" catch fi" deep in part E
CASE clip
17Œ" Double
Shelf roller catch CASE
¤" groove ¤" deep support
cut after assembly DRAWER
of drawer front Y U
D
17Œ" H
G W V J
6fi" P
S Z 1‹" 16"
¤" O
Z
T ‡" G L G
Q K

P ¤" round-overs, M
fl" shelf both sides I
T O X fl" grooves standard
6fi" ‰" deep 20" long #8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screws J
No round-over H
R 2b ROUTING THE PARTIAL ROUND-OVERS
D 41"
D
D BOTTOM
21fi" 41" D
›" partial ⁄ " pilot hole
7 64 ¸" shank hole,
round-overs E fi" deep countersunk
2a TOP/DOORSTOP DETAIL D
42fi" D
23"

BASE Mitered
A B ends

B
C
A
2a top/doorstop detail
2fi" 7⁄64"
2b routing the pARTIAL
pilot hole fi" deep
A N
1fi" ROUND-OVERS
F
‡" E #8 x 1‹" P.H.
2c HINGE PLATE DETAIL ›" round-
B O wood screw
20° over bit Fence
C P
fi"
D Q 2¤" BB ‡" E ˇ"
D
fi"-diam. adhesive-
E backed
R rubber bumper
FILENAME:165TvStand2.eps ‡"
Date: 5-05 S #8 flat washer
Router
Lorna J.F table
G T
2c HINGE PLATE detail
H U
V F E
I
J W 2‹" Hinge
2Á" plate
X
K
Y
L 3Ø"
Z
M
L G

Page 5 of 17
2alongFitblade.theyourtopThentablesaw with a ‡" dado
cut a ›"-deep rabbet
and bottom edges of the
top/bottom trim (J) in position, tight
against the front trim and flush with
the ends of the sides. Now glue and
7TheFrom fi" oak plywood, cut the
backs (N) to size to fit the cases.
backs fit against the case edges
sides (G) on the inside face, where clamp the side rear trim (K) in place, as and tight against the fi" overhang of the
shown. Switch to a fl" dado blade. shown in Photo B. Identify the left and side rear trim (K). Set the backs aside.
Now, on the outside face of the two
inner sides (G), cut two ‰"-deep
grooves for fl" shelf standards, where
right cases.

5 To determine the exact width of

the front trim (L), measure the
8 Place the base/bottom panel
assembly (A/B/C/D/E) on a flat
work surface with the panel up. Using
dimensioned on Drawing 2. combined thickness of a side (G) and two ‡×4×18" spacers between the

3 Glue and clamp the sides (G) and

tops/bottoms (D/H) together to form
the cases, making sure the edging (D)
side front trim (I). (Ours measured
Î" shy of 1".) Then, from ‡"-thick
stock, cut the four front trim pieces to
cases, as shown in Photo C, center the
cases side-to-side on the panel with the
back edge of the side rear trim (K) flush
on the tops and bottoms faces the front the measured width and 20" long. Now with the back of the rear panel edging
and the grooves for shelf standards glue and clamp the trim to the front of (D). Drill countersunk shank holes
in the two inner side panels face out. each case, where shown on Drawings through the case bottoms (H) into the
Check for square. 2 and 3, keeping the outer edges and panel (E), where shown on Drawings 2

4 From ‡"-thick stock resawn or

planed to ‹" thick, cut the side
front trim (I), side top/bottom trim (J),
ends flush.

6 From ‡"-thick stock resawn or

planed to ‹" thick, cut the two
and 3, and drive the screws.

9 Position the top panel assembly

(D/E/F) on the cases, centered side-
and side rear trim (K) to the sizes listed. drawer-slide spacers (M) to the size to-side, with the back edge of the panel
Glue and clamp the side front trim (I) listed. Then glue and clamp the spacers edging (D) flush with the back edge of
to the outer sides (G), where shown to the inside face of the inner sides (G), the side rear trim (K). From inside the
on Drawing 3, flush with the front flush with the bottoms (D/H) and tight cases, drill the mounting holes through
edges. Next, glue and clamp the side against the front trim (L). the tops (H) into the panel (E), and
drive the screws.

install the side rear trim mount the cases to the base
J
G
K

J
‡×4×18"
spacers
fi" overhang
Case

H H

Base/bottom panel
B assembly
C
Glue and clamp the side rear trim (K) tight against With the cases aligned on the base assembly (see
the top/bottom trim (J). The rear trim overhangs the Step 8) and positioned 18" apart with spacers, screw
case fi" for the back (N). the cases to the base.

Page 6 of 17
 fl" grooves ‰" deep on
outside face for shelf standards
fi"
H ‡" rabbet
›" deep
D

N 3" J
G
20" G

L 20" full- K
L extension M
drawer slide 11fi" 20" 20"
20" I

‹" 10‡"
H ‹"
20fi"
3a‡"
DRAWER SLIDE DETAIL D J
¸" shank hole, 21‹" 3"
countersunk ‡"
16fi"
‡" rabbet ›" deep
1" 2‹"

3a drawer slide detail

L G M 3 case (Right case shown)

Œ"
setback

‹" H

D
20" full-extension

Page 7 of 17
drawer slide
Time to construct the
dual-shelf drawers 4the Pair together the false front/back
(D/Q) for each drawer, and identify 6 From fi" oak plywood, cut the fronts
(S) to size. Sand the fronts smooth.

1fronts/backs
From ‡" oak plywood, cut the
shelves (O), shelf rails (P), and false
(Q) to the sizes listed.
parts (“LFF” for the left false
front, for example). On the front face
of the parts, mark centerpoints for
7 From the edging blanks (D),
crosscut pieces to the lengths
needed for the edges and ends of the
Then, from the edging blanks (D), 10 countersunk shank holes, where fronts (S). On a flat surface, apply the
crosscut pieces to the lengths needed dimensioned on Drawing 5, noting edging, keeping it flush with the back
for the shelves, rails, and fronts/backs, the left and right drawers are mirror face of the fronts.
where shown on Drawing 4. Apply the
edging. As an option, you easily can
add sliding supports to the shelves for
images. Then, on the back face of the
false fronts only, mark centerpoints
for the four countersunk shank holes
8 From ‡"-thick stock resawn or
planed to ‹" thick, cut the front
trim (T) to size to fit between the
your media. For more on this, see the for attaching the fronts (S), where edging (D) on the fronts (S).Glue
Top Shop Tip on page 15. dimensioned. Drill and countersink the and clamp the trim to the fronts,

2 Glue and clamp the shelf rails (D/

P) to the shelves (D/O), aligning
the rails with the shelf/edging joints
holes.

5 To assemble the drawers, clamp together

(no glue) the top shelf assemblies (D/
where dimensioned. After the glue
dries, mark centerpoints centered in
the openings on the front face of the
and keeping the ends of the rails and O/P), bottom shelf assemblies (D/O/P/ fronts for the knob mounting holes,
shelves flush, where shown. R), and false fronts/backs (D/Q), using where shown. Drill the holes.

3 From ‡"-thick stock, cut the

drawer-slide supports (R) to size.
Then glue and clamp the supports to
spacers to position the shelves 9‹"
apart, where dimensioned on Drawing 4
and as shown in Photo E. Using the
9 Fit your tablesaw with a standard
¤"-kerf blade. Then crosscut
two ¤"-deep grooves across the
the bottom of the bottom shelves (D/O) countersunk shank holes in the false front assemblies (D/S/T), where
›" from the outside edge of the edging fronts/backs as guides, drill pilot dimensioned on Drawing 2. (The
(D) and centered with a ‡" overhang holes into the shelf assemblies. Then
at each end, where shown on Drawing 4 drive the screws.
and as shown in Photo D.

glue the drawer-slide supports assemble the drawers

Top shelf
assembly D O P Back
D Q
O
›" D

R
‡"

False
front
P
D Q
Bottom shelf
assembly
D
Scrap edging
D O P R
D
used to set R
‡" overhang of part 9‹×9‹" spacer
D E
Glue and clamp a support (R) to the bottom of a With a top and bottom shelf assembly spaced 9‹"
bottom shelf (D/O), ›" from the outside edge with a apart, drive screws through the false fronts/backs
‡" overhang at each end. (D/Q) into the assemblies.

Page 8 of 17
 ¸" shank hole, countersunk D
8„" on back face D
#8 x 1" F.H. wood screw D
D ‡" D 8" ‡" D
D Q
‡" D P
D 3‹"
O D
S 5" D 8" 19fi"
D 9‹"
15›" 16¤"
Q D
D P
T
‡" ‡"
5„" 18ˇ" O D
‹" R
R 21"
1fl" 19Å" ›"
T 8„" „"
‡"
8„" fi" ¸" shank hole, 20" full-extension drawer slide
D #8 x 2" F.H. countersunk
1"-diam. brass knob wood screw
#8-32 x fl" knob hanger bolt ‡" Note: Left and right drawers
are mirror images.
7 64
⁄ " pilot hole fi" deep, centered in opening on ‡"
front after assembly of edging D and trim T

4 drawer (Left drawer shown)

Page 9 of 17
grooves are for accent purposes only.) dimensioned on Drawing 4, with the the drawer front against the false front.
Set the fronts aside. mounting holes centered on the marked Repeat for the other front.
Install the drawer slides, line. Mark the centers of the vertical From the back of each case, push the
fronts, and case backs slots in the slide. Drill pilot holes, and drawer fully out. Clamp the drawer

1andTodrawer
mount the 20" full-extension
slides, press the release lever
drive the screws. Repeat to mount the
remaining inner slides.
fronts to the false fronts, as shown in
Photo G. Now drive the screws through
separate the slide members. Using
‹" hardboard for a spacer, position an
outer slide member in a case against
3 Insert the drawers into the cases,
engaging the slides. Verify the
drawers move smoothly. If needed,
the four countersunk shank holes on
the back face of the false fronts into
the drawer fronts. Remove the screws,
the drawer-slide spacer (M), Œ" back adjust the position of the inner drawer fronts, and tape, and reattach
from the front face of the front trim slide members on the drawer-slide the fronts.
(L), where dimensioned on Drawing
3a and as shown in Photo F. Mark the
centers of the horizontal slots in the
supports (R). Then drill pilot holes
centered in the round holes in the
slides, and drive the screws to fix the
5 Retrieve the backs (N). Then glue
and clamp them in place on the
cases, where shown on Drawing 3, tight
slide. Drill pilot holes, and drive the slide positions. against the side rear trim (K).
screws supplied with the slide. Using
the same spacing and on the opposite
side of the case, mount an outer slide
4 To mount the drawer fronts (D/S/T)
to the false fronts (D/Q), position
a front, centered top-to-bottom and
Add the cabinet back
and shelves
member on the side (G). Repeat to
mount the remaining outer slides in the
other case.
side-to-side, in the case opening.
Measure the bottom reveal. Then make
two shims equal in thickness to your
1between
From fi" oak plywood, cut the
back (U) to size to fit the opening
the case backs (N). Draw 3"

2 Using a combination square, draw

a line along the length of each
drawer-slide support (R) ‡" from
measurement. (Our reveal measured
Ï".) Next, apply 2"-wide, cloth-
backed, double-faced tape to the false
holes and semicircular cutouts (for wire
pass-through and panel removal) on the
back, where dimensioned on Drawing 5.
the bottom edge on the outside face. front. Reposition the front in the case Drill fi" blade start holes through the
Position an inner slide member on a opening, inserting the shims at the 3" hole outlines. Then jigsaw the holes
support, „" from the front end, where bottom to aid alignment. Firmly press and semicircular cutouts to shape. Rout

install the drawer slides attach the drawer fronts

Drawer front
G D S T
Outer drawer-slide
member
Œ"

M
False
front
H
D Q
‹" hardboard
spacer
D

F G
Positioning an outer slide member on a drawer- Clamp a taped drawer front (D/S/T) to a false front
slide spacer (M), as shown, mark the centers of (D/Q) to prevent movement. Then drive the screws
the horizontal slots. to fasten the fronts together.

Page 10 of 17
 8Í"

4Œ"
8Í

5"

5"
5"

3" holes 4Œ"

5 parts view
Roller-catch clip 3" holes 4Œ"
19Œ"

U 19Œ"
1fi" 5"
U
ˇ"
5"

¤" round-overs, Roller-catch clip

both sides
¤" round-overs,
both sides 1fi"
17Œ" ˇ"
A N
BACK
B ‡" 17Œ"
1¤" LocationAof part
N P
P 1‡" BACK
C
‡" BD
D Q
C P 3‹"
2"
E R
5‡" D Q
S Q 5›"
F 2"
E R
G T
S 1¤" L
F ‰"Location
slot ›" long, centered
H U of part O
‡" ‡"
D G T
V ¸" ‰" slot ›" long, centered ‡"
I 1‹" BB
shank H U ‡"
‡" ‡" 2"
J W holes, 8" Note:
countersunk V 3" BB
X
I
¸" shank holes, D False fronts and ‡" 5‡"
K countersunk on backs for leftTOP
DOORSTOP andVIEW
2"
16¤"
Y back JfaceWof false right drawers are
fronts Xonly mirror images. 3"
L
Z K DOORSTOP TOP VIEW
M Y
2" L D
Z 4‡" 2fi" ¸"
M shank
1fi"
holes,
R R 1‡" countersunk
›"
16¤"
›"
FALSE FRONT/BACK
(Front face of left false front shown)
2"
Page 11 of 17
1fi"

›" R
a ¤" round-over on the edges of the
holes and cutouts on both faces.
of the shelves, flush with the ends and top
faces. Set the shelves aside. 3to theAttach an auxiliary extension to your
miter gauge and an auxiliary fence

2 Position roller-catch clips on the

front face of the back (U), where
Make the stylish doors for
the cabinet center
rip fence. Using your dado blade,
form a ‹" tenon ›" long on a rail cutoff,
dimensioned. Mark the center of the
mounting holes in the clips. Drill pilot
holes, and attach the clips using the
1
From ‡"-thick stock, cut the bottom
rails (X), top rails (Y), and stiles
(Z) for the doors to the sizes listed.
where shown on Drawing 7. Test-fit the
tenon in the groove in a stile (Z). Adjust
your setup, if needed. Then cut the
supplied screws. To mount 6 DOOR
the mating Save your rail cut-offs for making test tenons on both ends of the bottom and
(Left
double roller door
catches viewed
to the fromtenons.
case sides back) top rails (X, Y).
(G), engage the catches on the clips, and
position the back in the opening. Mark
the catch mounting holes, as shown in
2
Using a dado blade in your tablesaw,
cut a ‹" groove ›" deep centered
along the inside edges of the bottom
4 Noting the left and right top rails
(Y) are mirror images, draw the
curve along the bottom edge, where
Photo H. Remove the back and catches. rails (X) and stiles (Z), where shown on dimensioned. Bandsaw and sand to the
Drill pilot holes, and screw the catches Drawing 6. Raise the blade to Œ". Now lines.
to the sides. Set the back aside.

3 From ‡" oak plywood, cut the three

shelves (V) to size. Then, from ‡"-
cut a centered groove along the inside
edges of the top rails (Y). 5 To remove the back lip of the
groove in the bottom and top rails
(X, Y), where shown, to receive the
thick stock, cut the shelf trim (W) to size.
Glue and clamp the trim to the front edge
1"-diam. brass knob
‹" groove Œ" deep, centered
6 door (Left door viewed from back) 2"
1›" hole
Y
fi" deep

3‹"
7⁄64" pilot hole fi" deep
#8-32 x fl" knob 3"
on front face, centered hanger bolt

AA
7⁄64"
pilot
holes
fi" deep
Z
120° European-
style inset hinge
AA 19Å" Z

AA

¤ x 5fi x 16Á"
glass

#16 x ‡" brad ‹" grooves

›" deep,
centered
‡"
16¨"

›" rabbet
›" fi" deep routed X
after assembly 2"

›" 5fl" Œ"

AA Lip removed after cutting groove

4Œ"
Page 12 of 17
glass and glass stops (AA), switch with the front lip before routing the with the hinges.
to a standard blade in your tablesaw.
Position the fence 1fl" from the inside
rabbet. Square the ends of the rabbets
with a chisel. 9 To mount the mating hinge-plate
members, mark centerpoints on the
face of the blade, and raise the blade
to ˇ". Keeping the top edge of a top
rail (Y) tight against the fence with
8 On the front face of the inner stile
(Z) of each door, mark a centerpoint
for a knob hanger bolt for mounting
outside face of the case sides (G) for the
mounting holes, where dimensioned on
Drawing 2c. Drill pilot holes. Then
the back face down, cut off the lip. a 1"-diameter brass knob, where secure the mounting plates using the
Repeat for the other top rail. Using the dimensioned. Drill a 7/64" pilot hole fi" supplied screws. Now hang the doors,
same setup, position the bottom edge of a deep at the marked locations. clipping the hinge arm to the mounting
bottom rail (X) against the fence with Next, on the back face of the outer stile plate. Adjust the hinge screws as needed
the back face down. Cut off the lip. of each door, mark centerpoints for 1›" to establish an equal reveal all around
Repeat for the other bottom rail. holes fi" deep for the 120° European- and between the doors.

6 Glue and clamp the bottom and top

rails (X, Y) and stiles (Z) together,
checking for square.
style inset hinges, where dimensioned.
Using a Forstner bit in your drill press,
bore the holes. (Because the length
10 From ‡"-thick stock planed
to ›" thick, cut the glass stop
blank (AA) to size. Crosscut pieces

7 Chuck a ›" rabbeting bit in your

router. Then, on the back of each
door, rout a fi"-deep rabbet along the
of the centerpoint varies on Forstner
bits, we bored a hole in ‡"-thick scrap
first to make sure the tip would not go
from the blank to the lengths needed to
fit the doors, where shown on Drawing 6.
Set the stops aside.
inside edges of the stiles (Z), where
shown on Drawing 6, removing the
back lip of the grooves. Make sure the
through the piece.) Position a hinge-
cup member in each hole, and mark
the mounting holes. Now drill pilot
11 From your leftover edging blanks
(D), crosscut a 3"-long piece for
the doorstop (BB). Using a ‰" twist
bit guide bearing makes good contact holes, and drive the screws supplied bit in your drill press and drilling
overlapping holes, form ›"-long slots
install the roller catches in the stop, where dimensioned on
Drawing 5. Position the stop on the
bottom of the top panel (E), centered
between the cases, where shown on
Drawing 2, and 2¤" from the front edge
of the front top-panel trim (F), where
U shown on Drawing 2a. Mark the centers
of the slots using an awl. Then drill
pilot holes at the marked locations. Set
G the stop aside.
Time to apply the finish
and install the shelves
1hingeRemove the doors, drawers, and
all hardware. (We marked the door
parts and the mounting locations
to ensure correct reinstallation and
Roller-catch clip avoid hinge readjustment.) Sand the
cabinet, back, drawers, and doors to
220 grit, and remove the dust. Apply
a stain, if you wish. (We used Zar Oil-
Based Stain, no. 110 Salem Maple.)
Double roller Then apply three coats of a clear finish.
catch flush (We used AquaZar Water-Based Clear
against case side G Satin Polyurethane, sanding to 320 grit
between coats.)

2 Install the hardware. Then, to mount

the 1"-diameter brass knobs on the
drawer fronts (S), where shown on
Drawing 4, and on the door stiles (Z),
where shown on Drawing 6, prethread
E the previously drilled 7/64" pilot holes
fi" deep in the fronts and stiles with
H a #8×1" flathead wood screw. Thread
#8-32×fl" knob hanger bolts into the
With a double roller catch engaged on the mating clip and flush
against a case side (G), mark the centers of the mounting holes.

Page 13 of 17
 knobs. Now mount the knobs on the with the supplied nails. 7Now DOOR-RAIL
install TENONS
or ¤" hardboard on the glass to protect
fronts and doors. Slide the drawers into the shelves (V/W) where desired(Viewed
usingfromitback)
while driving the brads. Rehang the
the cases. shelf supports. doors.

3 From fl" shelf standards 24" long,

hacksaw four 20"-long pieces to
fit the grooves in the inner case sides
4
Have two pieces of ¤×5fi×16Á"
glass cut for the doors. Install the
glass and glass stops (AA) in each
5
Apply two fi"-diameter adhesive-
backed rubber bumpers to the
front face of the doorstop (BB), where
(G). Note the inch markings on the door, where shown on Drawing 6, using shown on Drawings 2 and 2a. Then
7 DOOR-RAIL
standards, and make sureTENONS
you cut and #16ׇ" brads. To prevent splitting screw the doorstop to the top panel (E),
(Viewed
install them so the from back)
slots for the shelf the stops, drill holes in them using a positioning it so the doors close flush
supports align. Place the standards in #16×1" brad with the head snipped against it. ›"
the grooves, and secure them in place off. Also, place a piece of cardboard
2" Y
6
Finally, using a helper, place your
TV on top of the entertainment
center. Set your electronic components
7 Door-rAil tenons (viewed from back) on the shelves (V/W), 1fl" and route 1fl"
the
wiring through 2fi"the holes in the back (U).
A N Snap the back into position. Then load
›" the drawers with videos and CDs. Now
B O Lip removed after rustle
rustle
Produced up
up somepopcorn
bysome
Marlen popcorn
Kemmet andand drinks,
drinks,
‹" put
groove
put your feetDuvall
up, and enjoyHedlund
a centered
movie
cutting groove Œ" deep,
C P Written by Owen with Chuck

TOP RAILwhile admiring your handiwork.

2" Y Project design: Kevin Boyle
D Q Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
1fl" 1fl" (Left door shown) ‹"
2fi" Graphicdesign:
Project LornaBoyle
design:Kevin Johnson
E R Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
Note: Top rails for left and right doors
The purchase of these plans does not
S Graphic design: Lorna Johnson
are mirror images.
F transfer any copyright or other ownership
Lip removed ‹" groove interest in the of
The purchase plans,
thesetheplans
design
doesor not
the
G T after finished
cutting groove Œ" deep, transfer project to the buyer.
and copyright Buyer
or other may
owner-
centered neither reproduce
ship interest in thethe plansthe
plans, for design
sale nororoffer
the
H U for sale any copies
TOP RAIL finished project to of
thethe finished
buyer. project.
Buyer may
V (Left door shown) neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
I ‹" for sale any copies of the finished project.
W Top rails for left and right doors
J Note: Lip removed after
cutting groove
X are mirror images. ‹" groove ›" deep,
K centered
Y ‹"
L
Z ›"
M

Lip removed after

cutting groove X
‹" groove ›" deep, 2"
centered ‹" 1fl"

›"
5fl"

BOTTOM RAIL
X
2"
1fl"

5fl"

BOTTOM RAIL

S
FILENAME:165TvStand7.eps
Date: 5-05
S Lorna TJ.

T
Two pieces of front trim (T), with ¤" grooves cen-
tered along the front face, create faux three-panel
drawer fronts (S) that add style to the entertain-
TvStand7.eps ment center while cleverly concealing the dual-shelf
drawers used for media storage.

Page 14 of 17
 EDITS    4*#
EDIT    4*#

"OOKEND

Keyhole bit unlocks the secret

to no-slip bookends
I’ve built many a bookshelf over the years
top shop tip
 X 56O
and have always been frustrated by
&( WOOD SCREW
free-standing bookends, which tend to
slip or tip. So, while crafting a bookshelf
for my great-granddaughter recently,
I hit upon the idea of fully adjustable "OOKEND
built-in bookends.
In the top of the shelf, I used a keyhole
bit in my plunge router to make a stopped
slot, as shown in the drawing. I plunged
the bit fi" deep into the center of the shelf,
and then routed to near each end. That
 X 56O
created a keyhole slot with a single entry
&( WOOD SCREW
hole that will be hidden by books.
After making the bookends, I drove a
#10×1fi" flathead wood screw into
the bottom of each, leaving the head +EYHOLE BIT
about ‹" proud. To install the ENTRY POINT
bookends, insert the head of
the screw into one of the
keyholes and slide it where
you want it. The
pressure from a
book or two
leaning against
the bookends
prevents them from +EYHOLE SLOT
sliding away. +EYHOLE BIT
—Gerald “Jum” Coorough, ENTRY POINT
Prairie du Chien, Wis. G2Ç Á gdjcY"dkZgh
&-

Å
)
Adapting Jum’s idea to
the entertainment center 'Ç
)
Jum’s tip arrived too late for us to build it
Á gdjcY"dkZgh
&-
+EYHOLE SLOT
into the design of the Compact Å
Entertainment Center. But we think it’s the 'Ç
perfect solution for keeping your CD and
&%m&Å;#=#
DVD collections from falling flat on their lddYhXgZl
respective shelves. If you’d like to add E
9 )
“bookends” to that project, build them as
shown in the drawing, at right, and add the D
keyhole slot in the shelves (O) where &
shown.

Eajc\Z`Zn]daZW^i
ÅYZZe#
&%m&;#=#
lddYhXgZl

&

Page 15 of 17
 Cutting DiagramC C Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
A B C C Base T W L Matl. Qty.
P
‡Ax 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3
B bd. ft.) H A side rails
P
‡" 2‡" 18" O 2
BB
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) B P
front/back rails ‡" 2‡" 37" O 2
BB
H
D C* footPhalves ‡" 2‹" 4fi" O 8
H O Q V
‡ xD7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) Panel edging
H O Q V
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) D edging
O blanks ‡"Q ‡" 96" O 9
F I * AA * L L H Top/bottom
O Q
F I * AA * L L H O
top/bottom Q V V
E ‡" 21fi"
Q
41" OP 2
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) D panels
O V V
H
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. O
top-panel Q
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) D H F ‡" 1fi" 96" O 1
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. trimOblank Q
R ‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood
Cases (2 needed)
‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood
J* J* K* R R
* * * M* G sides ‡" 21‹" 20" OP 4
J J K R
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) M* H tops/bottoms ‡" 10‡" 20fi" OP 4
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
X Y I side front trim ‹" 2‹" 20" O 2
T* W U side top/bottom
X Y Z Z
J ‹" 3" 16fi" O 4
T* W Z Z U trim
‡ x 5fi x 96" Oak (4 bd. ft.)
K side rear trim ‹" 3" 20" O 2
‡ x 5fi x 96" Oak (4 bd. ft.)
L front trim ‡" 1" 20" O 4
N drawer-slide
M ‹" 2" 21‹" O 2
N spacers
N S
backs fi" 11fi" 20" OP 2
E G G
N
E G G DrawersS(2 needed)
N S
O shelves ‡" 8" 19fi" OP 4
S
fi x 48 x 48"POak plywood
shelf rails ‡" 3‹" 19fi" OP 4
fi x 48 x 48" Oak
falseplywood
fronts/
Q ‡" 8" 15›" OP 4
E G G backs
E G G drawer-slide
R ‡" 1‡" 21" O 4
supports
S fronts fi" 8„" 18ˇ" OP 2

‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood T front trim ‹" 1fl" 8„" O 4

‡ x 48 x 96" Oak Pplywood Back and shelves

BB
H U back fi" 17Œ" 19Œ" OP 1
P
P
H V shelves ‡" 16" 17Œ" OP 3
BB
PO Q W shelf trim ‡" 1‹" 17Œ" O 3
H V
Q Doors (2 needed)
H O V
O Q X bottom rails ‡" 2" 5fl" O 2
H
O Q Y top rails ‡" 2fi" 5fl" O 2
O Q V V
H
FILENAME:165TvStandCD.eps Z stiles ‡" 2" 19Å" O 4
D H 5-05
Date: O Q V V
FILENAME:165TvStandCD.eps
O Q AA glass stop blank ›" ›" 96" O 1
D Lorna
Date:
H J.
5-05 BB doorstop ‡" ‡" 3" O 1
‡ x 48
Lorna O
J. x 96" Oak plywood Q
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood Materials key: O–oak, OP–oak plywood.
Supplies: Spray adhesive; 2"-wide, cloth-backed,
double-faced tape; #8×1", #8×1‹", and #8×2" flathead
wood screws; #8-32×fl" knob hanger bolts; #10 biscuits;
¤×5fi×16Á" glass (2); #16ׇ" and #16×1" brads; #8×1‹"
U
panhead wood screws (2); #8 flat washers (2); fi"-diam.
U adhesive-backed rubber bumpers (2).
Blades and bits: Dado-blade set, ¤" and ›" round-over
and ›" rabbeting router bits, 1›" Forstner bit.

N
Source
Hardware: 1"-diameter brass knobs no. 36467, $4.69 (8);
N ea. (8); double roller catches no. 29785, (1 pkg.) of 4;
$3.69
S per pkg. of 4 (1 pkg.); 120° European-style inset hinges
N no. 55833,(2$15.99
pr.); pr. (2 pr.); 20" full-extension drawer
S
S slides no. 32508, (2 pr.); pr. (2 pr.); fl" shelf standards
$17.99
N (4); ea. (4); shelf supports no. 33910,
24" long no. 33779, $2.29
S
fi x 48 x 48" Oak plywood (1 pkg.)
$6.09 perofpkg.
16. of 16 (1 pkg.). Call or click Rockler,
800-279-4441; rockler.com.
fi x 48 x 48" Oak plywood
Page 16 of 17
 FULL-SIZE PATTERN

2‹" 2‹"

1›" 1›"
2‹" 2‹"

4fi"

#10 biscuit-slot
#10 biscuit-slot centerlines
centerlines

C C
LEFT FOOT HALF RIGHT FOOT HALF
FULL-SIZE PATTERN FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(4 needed) (4 needed)

Align this edge with Align this edge with

45° beveled edge of foot. 45° beveled edge of foot.

To ensure full-size patterns are correct

size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.

fi 1"
‹ ‡

FILENAME:165TvStandPP.eps
Date: 5-05
Lorna J.

Page 17 of 17
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