PASTEL

BASICS
Everything you need to know about Soft Pastels

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Getting Started - What materials do I really need?

My advice to anyone getting started in soft pastels is “It’s all about the paper!”
You really need a good quality, sanded pastel paper to make life easier for beginners. It’s
no use trying to learn pastels on an inferior paper that just gets you frustrated and wanting
to give up.
So I would rather you save money on less expensive brands of pastel sticks and spend your
money on the paper. It’s actually a good idea to have a variety of different pastel stick
brands because they vary in hardness which can be very handy at times.
Just make sure everything you buy is artist quality.

Pastel Paper

Claire Fontaine Pastelmat

Canson Mi Tientes Touch
Uart 500
Art Spectrum Colourfix
Hahnemuhle Velour

Pastel Sticks

My favourite pastels are Schmincke and Unison, but their are a number of others on the
market that are very good. I usually look for the colour, rather than the brand in a lot of
cases. So you really need to buy the colours you need, depending on what you are draw-
ing. Don’t forget you can mix colours as well, so you don’t need every single colour you
see in your reference photo, for example, if you need a pink, you can mix white and red.

Now we could stop there with the pastels, but I use a variety of different types myself so I will
mention them, but there are many artists that soley use soft pastel sticks alone to create their
artwork, the more you start painting you will come to figure out what you like to use in your
own work.
Pan Pastels

These are fairly new to the market and you can quite easily create a painting just with these.
They come with Sofft tools which are similar to makeup sponges, You need some sort of tool
like this for laying them down and to be able to get any kind of accuracy. I like them because
they are a very fine pigment which doesn’t fill the tooth of the paper much, so I use these a lot
for backgrounds and blocking in.

Hard Stick Pastels

Hard stick pastels are limited to

only a couple of brands, although
they are handy to have in your
tool kit because they are
compressed into quite a hard
pastel stick, which are ideal for
finer details.

Pastel Pencils

I use pastel pencils the most out of all. But in saying that I actually use every one of the above
types of pastel in each of my drawings. The pencils are the best for the details. Again colours
are hard to pick because it will depend on what you are drawing. You can buy them individ-
ually or I prefer to have a whole set of my favourites (Stabilo Carbothello), but to start out I
would recommend buying seperately as you need them.
So I usually do the background in
soft sticks, then the block in with
pan pastels and then the face
details with the pencils and I use
the pencils and hard and soft
sticks for the fur, then finish off
with the soft sticks to add
highlights and darks.
 What I use and what you need to get started...
Soft Pastels..

* Stick Pastels - The softest and therefore brightest/darkest of them all, perfect for blocking
in backgrounds and adding highlights and darks at the end.

* Pastel Pencils - My main drawing medium, these are perfect for adding details eg. eyes

Pan Pastels - Perfect for backgrounds without filling the tooth of the paper.

Hard Stick - These are your hard square sticks, good for fine lines.

Papers..

* Pastel Mat - Everyones favorite, holds many layers of pastel and a joy to work on.

Mi Teintes Touch - Seems to be easier to get, can’t hold as many layers as pastelmat but better
than non-sanded papers and easier for blending.

Uuart - Comes in various grades - course to smooth, can chew through your pastels
quickly because it is more like sand paper, holds pastels well.

Other..

Tracing Paper - To trace your image from a reference image

This is not needed if you plan on using the grid method to get your
outline onto your pastel paper.

Pencil - Any pastel pencil will do, usually a mid-tone colour that’s in your drawing.
This is used to transfer your image using either tracing or grid.

Tape - This is a must for holding your paper down without the edges curling.
The best tape that works on most Pastel Papers is wide clear celotape.

Rubber - Always handy to have, either a standard rubber, or kneadable eraser.

I use a Tombow Mono Eraser because I like how small they are.

Glassine Paper - For resting your hand, to stop oil transfer from your skin, tracing paper or
baking paper would work just as well.

Backing Board - I use a thin MDF board because it is rigid, but even a heavy cardboard or
masonite etc would be fine.

Printer - For printing out your reference photo that you can transfer from

* starred items are the very basics of what you would need to get started

For all of my pastel supplies I use www.softpastels.com.au

 A COMPLETE GUIDE TO SOFT PASTELS
Pastels are an artist material with a long history. Sometimes referred to as “dry paint-
ing,” the medium offers an incredible range of colour (over 1600 hues) with the ability to blend
colours in the same way that you would paint pigment. When you learn about the history and
the versatility of pastels, it’s no wonder that they have been popular for so long

What on earth are pastels?

No their not just pale pretty colours that look nice in a baby nursery, Pastels are a paint-
ing medium made of powdered pigments and a binder of either gum, clay, or resin. Which are
then mixed together to form a thick paste, this is then fashioned into sticks and allowed to dry,
Unison have a beautiful range of soft pastels that are all hand rolled so no two are the same
shape. Each is created with the same pigment you’d find in other art media, like oil paints and
watercolours.

The binder is neutral colouring and low in saturation to avoid diluting the vibrancy of the
pigment. Pastels have the least amount of binder added as opposed to any other medium and
because they are almost pure pigment, pastels produce intense colours that most other media
can’t match.

Quick History of Pastels

The history of pastels can be traced
back to the Renaissance. The medium is
said to have originated in Northern Italy
during the 16th century, and it became a
favourite of the masters, including
Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo.

They used the chalks for sketching.

At that time, there were only a few colours
in their palette—black, white, and red. If
they were painting today they would have
more than 1600 hues available to them.

Leonardo da Vinci [Public domain]

(Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
 They went out of favor for quite
a long time until the 1800’s when Edgar
Degas famously used them to depict
his dancers. Gauguin, Monet, and oth-
ers followed suit.

Today, they remain some of the

most popular examples of artists that
use pastels, but there are many mod-
ern masters using them to great effect.

‘The Star’ (1878)

(Photo: Edgar-Degas.net Public Domain)

Zaria Forman and her haunting depictions of icebergs, Eric Wilson (my personal favor-
ite) and his masterful approach to wildlife painting, Chuong Nguyen with his outstanding por-
traiture work, to name just a few.

Zariaforman.com.
(Photo copyright Zaria Forman)

Ericwilsonsart.com
(Photo copyright Eric Wilson)

Icuong.com (Photo copyright Cuong Nguyen)

What about Quality?
Due to the minimal use of additives in the making of pastels, paintings do not crack or
yellow and last for a very long time. In saying that their definitely are varying degrees of light-
fastness in the different pastel brands. I only use the highest quality pastels available in my
artwork for the piece of mind of creating a painting that will last a lifetime.

How do I store my pastel paintings?

Pastel paintings are very fragile, similar to a charcoal drawing. Pastel is like paint that
never dries: when you touch it, the colour comes off. Because of this you have to store and
frame pastels in specific ways, to make sure the painting does not smear or smudge. The best
way to store paintings is flat with Glassine sheets between. Make sure the sheets of glass-
ine are taped to the painting so it won’t move. I always recommend trying to frame as many of
your paintings as possible, even if its just a very cheap frame from the local thrift shop.

It’s not always possible to frame your work so the next best thing is to create a storage
box out of gator/foam board, with a glassine sheet over the top. This is a very handy box worth
your time and cost to make as it can be used to store a few paintings at a time. It is also ideal if
you need to send a pastel painting to a customer which isn’t framed.

Is their a correct way to apply pastels?

There are so many varied ways of applying pastels, with no wrong or right. Although
some will have you believe that blending with your fingers is a real no no. But that’s exactly
what I do and many other master pastellists I know of do the same. So however you apply your
pastels to achieve your finished look is fine. Depending on your style will also depend on how
many different colours you need, if you are applying varied strokes without blending or layer-
ing, then a much larger range of colours is needed. But if you are blending and layering colours
then it’s kind of similar to oil paints in that you need lesser colours because you can create
more by blending.

Also just because the stick is shaped like a piece of chalk, does not mean you need to use
it like one, for larger areas you can use the stick on its side and for tiny details it’s quite normal
to break the pastel stick to give yourself a fine sharp edge, so don’t be disheartened when you
drop your nice new stick on the ground and it shatters into a number of pieces because every-
one of those will be very useful to you.

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How do I clean & organize my soft pastel sticks?
Cleaning you soft pastels is relatively easy, all you need is a bowl and a bag of
Polenta (cornmeal if your american). Just place your dirty pastels in the bowl of Polenta and
swirl around. The Polenta rubbing against the sticks will remove any dirt.

Now to organize your pastels is best to have the colour families in seperate compartments.
And each colour group sorted from dark to light values. You can even go as far as seperating
them into cool and warm tones as well. This all just makes it easier while painting for selecting
a colour. Try to think of Pastels as oil paints that the colours are already mixed.

How to work on different papers?

Ok so there are a few different papers as I mentioned earlier, and each paper I listed has
it’s own use for different pastel paintings. They are all great papers and you will learn over time
and using them which ones you prefer.

Pastelmat - Pastelmat is my favourite for drawing wildlife, due to it being able to hold the
most layers of pastel compared to any other paper on the market, this lends itself perfectly for
building fur layers up. However it is not the best for blending colours together.

Mi Tientes Touch - This was the first good pastel paper I discovered, this is the one that
changed my mind on pastel painting. It has a light sanded feel and the pastel glides smoothly
over it which is why I love this paper for when I have a lot of background to do or oceans etc.
because it is the best for blending pastels together.

Uart 500 - Uart is very much like sand paper and comes in different grades of roughness, the
lower the number, the rougher the texture. Due to the sanded quality, it takes pastel brilliantly
however it can chew away at your pastels very quickly. The main advantage is that it comes in
a roll, so is perfect if you want to create a painting that is bigger than standard.
Colourfix - Very similar to Mi Tientes Touch, although they do produce textured paint in the
same colours, so it is possible to cover up any really bad mistakes using the paint.

Velour - An absolutely beautiful paper, velour gives your paintings a soft feel but it can be a bit
tricky to work on, it really only takes soft sticks, not pencils and you need to rub in each layer as
you go.

How to prepare my pastel paper?

It is always best to tape your pastel paper to a board before you start. The best way is
with just a 3mm thin MDF board, cut about an inch bigger all around than your paper size.
The best tape to adhere your paper to this board is a wide clear celotape. It holds well on all
pastel surfaces that I have tried. This also creates a nice edge once you peel it away after your
painting is finished.
Another great use for wide celotape is to clean your paper before you start, sometimes
because the surface is textured, a lot of dust etc can stick to it. So just peel off some tape and
go over your paper sticking it down and peeling it back up, this will remove any bits on the
surface.

How do I transfer my outline to my paper?

The best way I have found is to use a grid method on larger works and a tracing on
smaller works.

Grid - Draw a fine line grid over your reference image and then draw the same grid but scaled
up onto your drawing paper. Then focus on each square of your reference image and draw
that into the larger corresponding grid square on your drawing paper.

So for example, if my reference image is 20cm x 30cm and my drawing paper is 40cm x 60cm,
then my grid will be double the size (scale 2:1)

So on the reference image I will draw a grid with 2cm x 2cm squares and then on my drawing
paper the grid will have 4cm x 4cm squares. This can be done with any size paper, you just
need to work out the scale first.

Tracing/Transfer - This way is similar to what we learnt in primary school. We use tracing
paper to get an outline of our reference image, then turn it over and colour in the back with a
pastel pencil. You only need to go over the lines we drew on the other side. It’s best to use a
pencil colour that suits your drawing you are about to do.
Then flip it back over and go back over your lines with a pen or pencil which will then leave the
pastel from the other side on your drawing surface. I find this quite simple and is my preferred
method of getting an accurate outline of what I am going to draw.
How do I sharpen my Pastel Pencils?
This is a question that is asked over and over again, as the pastel inside the pencils is
soft, it is known to break when sharpening. I have tried a number of different pencil sharpen-
ers, even bought a high quality handle sharpener but they always break.
So the best thing i have found is just a hobby knife and a piece of sand paper. You cut away the
wood from the pastel with the knife and then use the sandpaper to create a point. Yes it is time
consuming but it is all part of the process.

Best way to frame & post your pastel art?

As pastel is such a delicate medium, all your finished work should be framed behind
glass to protect it. You can just use a standard frame but if you can afford a professional fram-
er, then they will put a gap between the matt board and the pastel to catch any pastel dust.
Without this gap, the dust can over time accumulate on the edge of the mattboard and be-
come noticeable.

As for posting a finished artwork, if the piece is framed, I always use a professional art courier
because I want my artwork to remain upright throughout the journey to avoid any pastel dust
getting all over the glass and mattboard. Only proper art couriers allow for this.
A cheaper option is to send it un-framed. This way you need to really protect your work from
being bent or rubbed. I build a custom box from foam board and then attach a piece of glass-
ine paper to the face for protection.
Should I use a Fixative?
This is bought up a lot by beginners. And the answer is no. I never use fixative be-
cause my style of painting is to apply many layers and as soon as you use fixative on this it
seems to bring some of those hidden layers to the front, ruining the colour you wanted and
achieved through that process of blending. I also find that is is not needed because all pas-
tels really need to be framed behind glass so sticky fingers can’t reach it anyway.

Are pastels lightfast?

Their are no official lightfastness codes for soft pastels that apply to other painting
mediums, however being that there is hardly any binder added then their lightfastness are
generally rated as superb. Which in terms of years, the majority are 100+. This is proven
by looking at some of the masters work from the 1800’s which are still as bright and beauti-
ful today as they were when painted.

Are pastels toxic to use?

Some pastel brands don’t use any toxic pigments such as cobalt and cadmium but it
can greatly affect their brightness of colours. And it has been shown that the level of toxins
in these pigments are not high enough to be absorbed through human skin anyway.

The international Art and Materials Institute (ACMI) has been making efforts to en-
courage safety in art materials since 1940. Their seal of approval can be found on many art
materials in the form of labels.

The AP (approved product) label means the products “are safe and that are certified
in a toxicological evaluation by a medical expert to contain no materials in sufficient quan-
tities to be toxic or injurious to humans, including children, or to cause acute or chronic
health problems.”

You will find that most of the higher quality pastel brands will have this logo on their
products. So all in all the major health threat with pastels would be breathing in the dust
which can be prevented by not blowing on your paintIng. Try to have your pastel painting
angled either on an easel or against a pile of books so that any dust will fall down to the
bottom and then you can either use a damp cloth or vacuum to remove this. I know a few
artists that use gloves to avoid the pigments going into their skin (I don’t because I haven’t
found any yet that enable me to blend well, but i’m still searching). You could even wear a
face-mask if you really had breathing problems such as asthma. So really there is nothing to
stop you from picking up pastels and giving them a go.

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I hope you enjoyed this guide on Pastel Basics and it’s helped take the
mystery away from this wonderful medium.

If you would like to keep up to date with any workshops or online trainings I
have coming up, then I would love for you to follow me on my social media
accounts.

www.facebook.com/kerridixonart
www.instagram.com/kezart
www.kerridixonart.com

I also have a private facebook group that is a growing community of fellow

artists called “Drawing Wildlife & Nature - Beginners to Advanced”

Kerri xx
NOTES.....
w w w. ke r r i d i xo n a r t . co m