FASHION

Fashion is a general term for a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup,
body piercing or furniture. Colors and patterns of textiles changed from year to year
The four major current fashion capitals are acknowledged to be Paris, Milan, New York C_ju, and London,
which are all headquarters to the greatest fashion companies and are renowned for their major influence on
global fashion, Fashion weeks are held in these cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections
to audiences.
Modern Westerners have a wide number of choices available in the selection of their clothes. What a person
chooses to wear can reflect that person's personality or interests. When people who have cultural status start
to wear new or different clothes, a fashion trend may start. People who like or respect them may start to wear
clothes of a similar style.
Fashions may vary considerably within a society according to age, social class, generation, occupation, and
geography as well as over time. If, for example, an older person dresses according to the fashion of young
people, he or she may look ridiculous in the eyes of both young and older people. The terms fashionista and
fashion victim refer to someone who slavishly follows current fashions.
in recent vears, Asian fashion has become increasingly significant in local and global markets. Countries such
as China, Japan, India, and Pakistan have traditionally had large textile industries, which have often been
drawn upon by Western designers, but now Asian clothing styles are also gaining influence based on their own
ideas.
The media plays a very significant role when it comes to fashion. For instance, an important part of fashion is
fashion journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in magazines, newspapers, on
television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs. In the recent years, fashion blogging and
YouTube videos have become a major outlet for spreading trends and fashion tips. Through these media
outlets, readers and viewers all over the world can learn about fashion, making it very accessible. Television
coverage began in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various
entertainment shows became more frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows such as
Fashiontelevision started to appear. Fashion TV was the pioneer in this undertaking and has since grown to
become the leader in both Fashion Television and New Media Channels compared to other Fashion Magazines.
Despite television and increasing internet coverage, including fashion blogs, press coverage remains the most
important form of publicity in the eyes of the fashion industry.
Fashion is the style and custom prevalent at a given time. In its most common usage however, "fashion"
describes the popular clothing style. Many fashions are popular in many cultures at any given time. Important
is the idea that the course of design and fashion will change more rapidly than the culture as a whole. Fashion
designers create and produce clothing articles.
The terms "fashionable" and "unfashionable" were employed to describe whether someone or something fits
in with the current or even not so current, popular mode of expression. However, more so in the modern era
items termed 'not so current' may indeed fit into the term 'Retro.' Retro fashion allows rule shifts, such as
'old is suddenly new,' thus fashionable. The term "fashion" is frequently used in a positive sense, as a synonym
for glamour, beauty and style•ln this sense, fashions are a sort of communal art, through which a culture
examines its notions of beauty and goodness. The term "fashion" is also sometimes used@ anegative sense,
as a synonym for fads and trends, and materialism.
There exist a number of cities recognized as global fashion centers or fashion capitals. Fashion Weeks are held
in these cities where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences. The main five cities are
Tokyo, London, Paris, Milan and New York - these five are renowned for their major influence on global
fashion and are headquarters to the greatest fashion companies.

Areas of fashion
Fashion as social phenomena is common. The rise and fall of fashion has been especially documented and
examined in the following fields:
Architecture, interior design, and landscape design
Arts and drafts
Body tvpe, clothin o or costume, ggsmg_ügs, personal grooming, hairstyle, and personal
adornment Dance and music
Forms of address, and other forms of speech
Entertainment games, hobbies sports, and other pastimes
Management, management styles and different ways of organizing
Politics and Inedia, especially the topics of conversation encouraged by the media
Social networks and the diffusion of representations and practices
Sociology and the meaning of clothing for identity-building
Technology, such as the choice of computer programming techniques Hospitality industry, such
as designer uniforms custom made for a hotel, restaurant, casino, resort or club, in order to reflect a property
and brand.

Media
An important part of fashion is fashion journalism. Editorial critique and commentary can be found in
magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs.
At the beginning o?the 20th century, fashion magazines began to include photographs and became even more
influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had
a profound effect on public taste.
Vogue, founded in the US in 1892, has been the longest-lasting and most successful of the hundreds of fashion
magazines that have come and gone. Increasing affluence after World War Il and, most importantly, the
advent of cheap colour printing in the 1960s led to a huge boost in its sales, and heavy coverage of fashion in
mainstream women's magazines - followed by men's magazines from the 1990s. Television coverage began
in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various entertainment
shows became more frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows like FashionTelevision started to
appear.
Despite television and increasing internet coverage, including fashion blogs, press coverage remains the most
important form of publicity in the eyes of the industry. Fashion Editor, Sharon Mclellan said, "There's a
misconception in the industry that TV, magazines and blogs dictate to the consumer, what to wear. But most
trends aren't released to the public before consulting the target demographic. So what you see in the media is
a result of research of popular ideas among the people. Essentially, fashion is a group of people bouncing ideas
off of one another, like any other form of art."
Intellectual property
Within the fashion industry, intellectual property is not enforced as it is within the film industry and music
indusfry. To "take inspiration" from others' designs contributes to the fashion industry's ability to establish
clothing trends. Enticing consumers to buy clothing by establishing new trends is, some have argued, a key
component of the industry's success. Intellectual property rules that interfere with the process of trend-making
would, on this view, be counter-productive.

The Fashion Cycle

l . First, there's th emerging fend (the American Marketing Association refers to this as the firt of the cycle
where the trend is highly sought after. You know this as when you see that great hat/dress/shoe on the runway,
red carpet or music video.
2. Next, comes phase, where everyone wants a piece of the trend. Yout ll see it in fashion magazines,
newspapers, internet and TV during this phase.
3. Finally, the trend becomes saturated in the market, usually at very low prices. With trendy items like a
must-have designer handbag, the item becomes widely available as a knock-off.
Most of us will buy it somewhere between phases two and three. Only celebrities and fashion industry
types have access to fashion fresh off the runway that hasn't appeared in stores yet, like in the first phase of a
fashion trend.
At the second phase a look is often available in high-priced designer collections. Only in the third phase, when
a look makes it to the mass market, does it become affordable for most consumers.
Twenty or 30 years ago it mi ht have taken a few year? to rug_ke it from _red carpet to mass mar et, ut toda 's
manufacturers have put the
• Sometimes a hot trend makes It into ower priced retail outlets in as little as a few
So how do you know how long a trend will last? A few general guidelines:
Generally speaking, most fashion trends stick around for at least a year. Some trends, usually the most
understandable ones, last longer. For examp e, the personalization or initial craze started with Sarah Jessica
Parker's "Carrie"

necklace during season two of "Sex and the City" in 1998. The look saturated the mass market in the fall 2003
with initial handbags, sweaters -- you name it -- a full five years after it started.
• One school of thought says that fashion cycles about every 20 years. Thus, the minis of the 'SOS have
come back into favor now (as did the nameplate necklace mentioned above, which was hot then, too).
• A big part of decidino on how Ion a trend is viable depends on where in the ashion cycle you bought
the trend. If you bought it as a knock-off or at a discount

that gives you a roximate

store for just one or two seasons. Because the fashion industry often lumps together Spring and Summer, Fall
and Winter, ly six months of wear out of a look before it looks
date .
Althouoh there is no hard-and-fast rule about how long a fashion trend will stick around, you can bet that the
jeans, trucker hats) are just ads that will fade. That doesn't mean you shouldn't
have fun buying them, just know that they aren't looks that will be fresh this time next year
• Buying power can keep. a trend on life support. Sometimes consumers love a look tank tops and flip
flops are all examples of former trends which actually became wardrobe staples.
The higher the profile -- boho chic and mod are recent examples -- the more likely it is that the trend will look
dated by the same next year. Likewise, the more radical the cut, color or print microminis, army jackets, mod
graphics the more certain that the trend will be long over by the same time next year.
a Ition to a core wardrobe
trends is to have a wardrobe stocked with mostly classic looks: •eans, T-shirts, 'blazers? little black dresses.
Use trendy items as an to give it some kick.

TREND SETTER
someone or something that starts or helps to popularize a new fashion, style, movement, etc . Trendsetter are
most often of the youth.
LEATHER- By tanning of leathers, we keep characteristics of leather forever.
TYPES OF LEATHER- 1- Bovine (Cow). 2- Ovine (Goat, Sheep, and Kid). 3- Reptile (Snake, Lizard,
Crocodile). 4- Pig leather 5- Horse leather. 6- Amphibian leather. 7- Bird leather (Ostrich).
1- BOVINE- There is four types of leather in Bovine leathers.
A) SUCKLING- Young milk calves which have not started to eat hay. The leather is of the very finest quality,
most expensive, very soft, and flexible. It is used for high fashion ladies footwear. Skin sizes from 6 to 9 sq.
ft.
P ) CALF- Young animals which have just started feeding hay and straw. A iittie thicker in quality than milk
calf leather, howeverit is std! quite expensive and of very good quality. It is used mainly in men's i'ligh fashion
footwear. The skin measure from 9 to 16 sq. ft.
C) VEAL- Their skin is large and very thick. The hide is split into two parts in its thickness. The top grain
side is used for upper material in shoes and the lower side for the making of split leather, leather lining, and
garments. This !eather measure from 16 to 20 sq. ft. and sorne hides even 36/37 sq. ft.
ADULT ANIMAL (OX, COW, and BULL)- These are from old animals, very loose, too much defects, can
used only for making bottom parts like- sole, insole, heels, welts, etc. The area of leather is 25 to 30 sq. ft.
2- OVINE- This leather mainly used for upper, lining, and garments. They are divided into three categories-
A) KID LEATHER- This is the top of the line of leather in goat skins. Young male goat gives the deluxe
leather for high fashion shoe for men's and ladies. It is most expensive, stronger, thin, and has good quality
the area of skin is 5 to 7 sq. ft.
B) FEMALE GÖAT- It is less important, however is stiff quite usefuljltis used mainlv for lining, garments
and for suede. It is very flexibie and therefore, if there is an error in the pattern, the lining will pull the upper
to one side.
C) SHEEP SKIN- They is used only for linings an(is celled brown sheep leather. The main point to
remember here is that the animal with the best hairs (wool) have the worst kind of skin. The main quality of
sheep skins is its elasticity and softness and a very widely pored grains.
3- REPTILE LEATHER (Luxury leather) - This is the leather made by snakes, lizards and crocodiles.
Which have a scaly type of skin? To work properly the reptile skins one has to reinforce them with hemp
material or cloth. Imitation of reptile leather can be easily recognized because the scales cannot be exactly
imitated.
Lizard: Oval scales. Snake: Diamond scales. Crocodile: Square scales. In shoe making you can use the full
hide of young crocodile but just the belly of the old animals, because the scales on the back are too thick and
hard.
in Croco and Lizard baby leather we can use all area of the leather. But in adult can use only belly part for
making shoes because back part is very hard.
BABY ADULT SNAKE

DM/MTR.
Only this part measure in SQFt. and only part from where can make shoes.

To cut scales leather.

4- PIG SKIN- The skin of the wild boar (Peccary) is the most used for shoes and other
leather articles. They are covered by big bristles. For leather garments this skin produced
very good suede leather, It has good resistance and also use for sport shoes. Skin structure-
5- HORSE LEATHER- This leather is general is not very suitable for the shoe
manufacturer.
vervnara. The omportant'tor tne snoe moustryas It has un excellent capability to retain varnishes, and patent i
-other is the result. The pores are very small and stiff, and the varnish remains permanently. This type of
leather is very stiff and quite hard to last. Can be used for sport shoes.
6- AMPHIBIAN LEATHER- In the shoe trade, seal skin is used, but this type of leather is more popular
with leather goods manufacturing. Toad skin is good in looking, it is not so expensive. It used only for
combinations because it has very small area.
7- FISH SKIN- Fish leather is not so widely used in shoe trade. The skin of leopard-fish is the best
known.
8- BIRD LEATHER- Only ostrich bird leather is used.

Skin structure
9- SYNTHETIC LEATHER- Synthetic leathers have the same characteristics throughout, they have
elasticity only one way and they are cheaper in price. The design standard has to be very accurate. Synthetic
materials have a tendency to return tom their original shape. The vamps have to be cut with the stretch to the
toe tips and the quarters have to be cut with the stretch perpendicular to themselves.
SYNTHETIC MATERIALS IN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY-

1- TYPE OF SYNTHETIC MATERIALS IS USED IN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY-

Polyvinyl chloride (P.V.C.), Polyurethane (P.U.), Thermoplastic sheets;
Thermoplastic rubber (T.P.R.), Rubber, EVA sheets, Cellulose board, Leather board, Rexene, Canvas cloth,
Fur, Non- woven fabric ( Polyester), Fuezeble lining (paper), Polyester thread, Nylon thread, Sugar coated
cloth drill, Flannel, and Hosiery etc.
2- AREA WHERE THESE MATERIALS USED IN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY-
Making shoe uppers of various nylj+ oi 'Viöi0ng lining ot VBCi0Uj• types of footwear. Mak!ng stiffeners
and toe-puffs. •Making Insoles for footwear. M akir;g outer soles of footwear. fviaking grindery iterns. For
packing materia:s.
3- WHY THESE MATERIALS ARE USED IN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY-
They are economical (Price wise & consumption wise). It is easy to work upon. They are easily available.
They offer better designs and colors. Best suited for low price footwear. Friendly in wet weather condition.
Easy to maintain synthetic products.
4- IMPORTANCE OF SYNTHETIC MATERIALS IN INDIA-
Leather products are very costly & everybody can't afford it. These materials offer wide range of designs and
colorful products. Synthetic products are more popular in India because of low price. They are easy to maintain
and comfortably replaceable. A small manufacturing unit can be setup with a small amount.
5- DEMERITS OF SYNTHETIC MATERIALS-
Cannot withstand in all types weather conditions. Allergic to human skin (because of chemical composition).
It has limited life span. These materials are not durable as leaQher. Synthetic materials are faster in wear &
tear than leather. Synthetic products are not easily repairable. These materials do not hold stitches very well.
These materials do not breathe as leather. Synthetic materials do not absorb water (Sweat). These materials
can't bear extra stress and strain. Synthetic materials are bad conductors of heat.

BOTTOM COMPONENTS-
Stock fitting department for the preparation of all bottoming components. There is a growing tendency for
factories to buy in ready finished components and these are held ready to marry up with the closed uppers.
STOCK FITTING COMPONENTS-
1- SOLES- Leather was always the main soling material. In recent years this has been largely superseded by
other materials, example- rubber, crepes, synthetic resin, P.V.C. and polyurethane.
The ideal qualities for soling materials are- Durability, Flexibility, Waterproof, Lightness in weight, Non
slip, Uniformity.
Leather- is accepted in the trade as the most suitable soling material for high quality footwear, because it has
all the essential qualities of a good soling material except durability.
Solid rubber- is mainly used in the trade for vulcanized footwear. It tends to be rather heavy due to its density
(specific gravity 1.2).
Microcellular Rubber- is the same compound as solid rubber with a blowing agent added, which turns to gas
at a certain temperature in the vulcanizing temperature range. The specific gravity of 0.85 makes it light in
weight and cushions the foot better than solid rubber.
PLANTATION CREPE-This is a material made from pure rubber. It is produced by collecting the rubber latex
taken from the trees directly into sheet form. It is not extensively used because it is expensive and cannot be
bonded directly to uppers, although it is hard wearing. Other disadvantages are that it is adversely affected by
oils and patrols and that is softens and spreads in wear.
RESIN RUBBER- The introducqon_arownd 1950 of synthetic material
& •olv.bination of_synthctic rubber anti, cought about a conhpletecharge shoe manufacturing process. The
majority of resin rubbers are used for women's footwear. Resin rubber is a uniform material and so lends itself
to prefinishing. It n)ay be used in sheet form or as a moulded unit.
POLY VINYL CHLORIDE (P.V.C.) - The advent of P.V.C. as an injection moulded material for soles in the
early 1960,s w s rapidly adopted by the footwear trade as an alternative
to vulcanized rubber. It is suitable for direct moulding on to shoe bottoms or can be used to produce a wide
variety of moulded unit soles. P.V.C. needs to have a surface to overcome a tendency to slip.
ETHYLENE VINYL ACETATE (E.V.A.) - A chemical blown compound which in appearance is similar to
microcellular rubber. E.V.A. is used as a substitute for microcellular rubber as soling material for sandals in
the cheaper end of the trade: It does not have such good wearing qualities as microcellular rubber, and good
bond to the shoe are difficult to obtain.
POLYURETHANE (P.U.) - P.U. was developed in the mid 1960's as a soling material which can be directly
moulded on to shoe bottoms or produced as a moulded unit. It has proved to be the best man-made material
for soles over produced with regards to durability. In the manufacturing process a hardener and resin are
mixed in very exact ratios. This produces a chemical reaction, the result being a "blown" or expanded material.
P.U. is very light weight and mould contours can be used to simulate cork, resin rubber etc.
2- INSOLES- An Insole is the foundation of the shoe. Its function in the finished shoe is to take up moisture
in the form of perspiration from the foot.
The ideal qualities for an insole are- To absorb moisture readily and dry out quickly. Sufficient durability to
withstand friction from the foot. Flexibility. Firm enough not to spread in manufacture or in wear. Uniformity
of substance. Light weight. The ability to take an adhesive tacks or stitches.
There are number of materials in use for insoles: Leather board, Cellulose board, and Leather are the main
ones with various synthetic materials also available.
LEATHER BOARD- S.A.T.R.A. (The Shoe and Allied Treads Research Association) specifies leather board
as a material containing no less than 75% leather fiber. It is a compound of leather fibers bonded together with
rubber latex to form a uniform sheet material 3 the nearest in to The content makes it
perrneable
ieatjier, The ieäther titer may be ci vegetable-tenned leather but whére heat resistance is required the fiber will
be form chrome tanned leather.
CELLULOSE BOARD (e.g. Texon, and Bontex) -This is made from wood pulp compounded with latex
(Texon), or with resins and latex (Bontex and others). It is no cheaper than leather board because of bonding
agent needed. Cellulose board does not stain, has a natural appearance and takes adhesives well.
BACKER BOARD (SHANK BOARD)- A cellulose fiber board which has little or no bonding agent but is
compounded with water. This produces a rigid board in various grades and is used as backer board (i.e. back
part of the insole).
LEATHER- Insoles cut from leather are still used in the trade particularly for more expensive footwear. The
leather is usually cut from the belly or shoulder of the hide and is split through its substance where necessary
for the grade of footwear. The advantages of leather are that it is absorbent, will take adhesives, tacks, or
stitches can be made light and flexible, and is durable and comfortable in wear.
3- STIFFENERS- A stiffener is a material shaped to conform to the heel of the last, and inserted between the
lining and the upper. Stiffeners are mainly made from leather, leather board, P.V.C. and polythene, although
many other materials may be used.
The ideal qualities for a stiffener are- Strong and rigid to support the back part of the shoe and keep foot
forward. Easy to mould. Abilitv to skive to the edges so that it does not profile on the finished shoe. Abilitv to
take an adhesive.
The length of the stiffener will be determined by the function of the shoe, for example, the stiffener
must be longer 'for a ladies court shoe to help maintain the shape and good fitting of the shoe. Stiffeners are
bought in pre-moulded to the shape of seat, partly moulded or flat.
LEATHER- is an ideal material for stiffeners but it is expensive and therefore only used with high quality
shoes. It is always flat is skived to an edge, mellowed to ease moulding

and an adhesive is applied. It is moulded to the shape of the last during the lasting process.
LEATHER BOARD- for stiffeners is made in many types and grades of material. It is usually pre-
moulded to the shape of the heel, but now is often partly moulded for use in the new back forming machines,
and for veldtschoen construction.

The modern trend is to have stiffener pre- cemented. These are reactivated by heat to to hond to the stiffener,
thus the uppers are kept cleaner during inanutacturing.
THERMOPLASTIC- various grades of board stiffeners are either coated with thermoplastic resin or the resins
are incorporated into the board during the stiffener manufacture. They are pre-heated to a soft condition,
moulded to shape on a mould or
the last and seat lasted. As cooling takes place the stiffener takes up the firm shape required. Thermoplastic
resins may also be used with a fabric based stiffener.
4- TOE-PUFFS- A toe puff is any suitable material which is placed in the toe of the shoe to reproduce the
shape of the last and to maintain that shape throughout the active life of the shoe.
A toe puff must be- Thin in substance, so that the profile of the puff is not visible through the vamp and does
not cause discomfort in wear. Firm, so that good toe shape is maintained. Resilient, so that the shape is
maintained after distortion. Hvgienic, not a breeding ground for bacteria.
CELASTIC- This has been the main toe puff for many years but is now only used in children's and men's
shoes. Celastic puff is made from a cotton-based material impregnated with celluloid. They are activated by
an acetone-based solvent, just prior to lasting, and set very firmly. The advantages are that they are not affected
by damp or temperature. With cement lasting, this is not the ideal toe puff because the solvent used affects the
cement around the lasting edge.
RUBBER- This type of light, cheap puff consists of cotton scrims impregnated with rubber. The main use is
in unlined casual footwear, where a firm toe is not required.
LIQUID PAINTED-ON TYPE- There are many variations in liquid form, these are simply painted onto the
vamp.
HEAT ACTIVATED THERMOPLASTIC- Cotton scrims laid in the required number of plies are impregnated
with thermo plastic resins to form the toe puff. The back of the puff is coated with thermo activated adhesive
and heat fused to the reverse side of the vamp. The puff is softened by heat just prior to lasting and hardens
on cooling. This type of puff has largely replaced the celastic puff as no solvent is required for re- activation.

5-HEELS- There is three distinct types of heels- PLASTIC, WOOD and BUILT.
PLASTIC- This type of heel was developed in the early 195()'s as a result of a breakthrOugh 'in plåstic
injection moulding.„High impact polystyrene is the most commonly used material, heated to a molten
condition and injected into the mould. Auto loc (push-on) plastic top pieces may be used in conjunction with
plastic heels or alternatively top pieces may be nailed or stapled on. This type of heel can be covered or
sprayed.
woOD- The wood used is mainly beech as it has a close fine grain which lends itself a good finishing.
BUILT- This method was traditionally used to make heels from layers, known as lifts, from leather and or
leather board. Originally this was done directly on the seat portion of the sole. Today the heel is made
separately from the shoe. Vegetable tanned leather end leather board lifts are used with some rubber top pieces.
The required sizes and shapes of lifts are press cut, and then lifts are split and graded to an even substance.
The lifts are nailed together; compressed top pieced and compressed a second time to produce a compact 'built
heel.
6- SHANKS- The shank extends from just under the heel to a point just behind the tread line. Its function
is to prevent the flexing of this portion of the shoe during walking. The longitudinal curve of the shank must
follow the curve of the last waist. It has a slight lift at the seat, known as seat spring, this has the advantage
that in the finished shoe the shank pulls constantly at the heel portion, thus helping to ensure top line clip
The two basic materials used are wood and high grade carbon steel. Both wood and steel shanks are used in
flat shoes, but in ladies high heeled shoes only steel are used, and this is fluted to give added strength.
SHANK-
It is relatively stiff and firm component generally made with metal plastic or wood. It is placed between waists
of the shoe. It prevents the flexing of the waist portion during walking. In case of metal shank it is normally
moulded. The longitudinal curve of the shank must follow the curvature of the last waist. The shank is not
an essential component to be used for each and every type of shoe. The shank is not required for a shoe which
has a wedgé unit sole.
FUNCTION OF SHANK- It forces the insole to,form a bridge between heel breast and the joint (tread line).
As you Ionowth ai insole the foundation of the shoe as such this hr;dge must be supported to prevent it from
collapsing. This is the principle job of a shank. The role of a shank becomes more critical with the increase of
height of the heel, The shank also acts as filler in the narrow waist scrip between the tasted margins.
MATERIALS USED FOR SHANK - Most of the shanks now-a-days are made from metal. Besides this wood
and plastics are also the materials which are often used for a shank.
1- METAL- The most common metal used Carbon steel which contains 0.5 to 0.55% of carbon, other
components are Silicon, Manganese, Sulfur, and Phosphorus. The shank is hardened by heating it in an
electrical furnace and tempered by immersion in an oil bath. Otherwise it may be put under a press called
AUSTEMPERING. This is a continuous heating, cooling and drying process. It involves:- i) Pre heating at
350 C. ii) High heating 850 C. iii) Quenching in molten salt bath at 310 C. iv) Cold sprays quenching.
v)Warm water washing. vi) Hot air drying.
FLUTES IN THE STEEL SHANK-The raised section of the steel shank is known as flute. As a general rule
the deeper the flute the stronger the shank. Steel is the strongest shank materiai and the fluted steel shanks
are the strongest of all. Fluting of the:hßnk is to extend for at least 10mm back under the heel breast or extend
back past the front two heel nails or staples. TWO FACTORS SHANK- 1- The heelis cupped deep enough
the shank to he trapped and secured when it is attaching. The cupp i ng must not be too shallow. Q, The
finte•shank extends weii past the heel breast to Rive the optimum strength,
2- WOOD- Wooden shanks are not as strong as of steel shank, but they are light in weight. Bamboo
shanks are also used for low heeled shoes. In welted footwear, a special broad

wooden shank is used which ultimately covers the space between the welt ribs, doing an important job as both
filler and a shank. Wooden shanks are skived to give a tapered edge at each end and along the side. This helps
them to blend in with rest of the shoe bottom.
3- PLASTIC- The plastic shanks are the new addition among the shank materials. It is generally used for
the PVC unit soles. The shanks are made from polystyrene or polypropylene injection moldings. It is hard
plastic but less rigid than wood and steel shank. Molded plastic shanks can also act as heel filler.
WHEN SHANKS ARE NOT USED- When we require a soft and flexible feel through the whole bottom of
the shoe) the use of shank is not required. As per example in case of ballet shoe, football shoe and in veldtshoen
construction especially for children footwear the shanks are not used because there is no.convenient cavity in
the bottom as they are lasted on outwards direction. These shoes are usually enade with tow heel also.

The actual length of the shank is determined by the type of footwear to be made. As for example in ladies
high heeled shoe the length is especially critical and shank will extend right up to where the waist curve.
levels out, just short of the tread line. In case of low

heeled footwear the length will be slightly shorter.

ATTACHMENT OF SHANK- There is various methods for attaching shank with soles. In India where most
of the shoes are being manufactured by hand, the manufacturer prefers to attach the shank after lasting of the
shoe. However mechanized shoe manufacturers choose to attach the shank to the insole before lasting. The
end of the shank should be no more than 15mmfrom the heel end of the insole and should be no more than 7-
13 mm behind the tread line of the last. Given bellow are the methods of attaching of shank-
1- STAPLE ATTACHING- It is the oldest method of shank attachment. For this method the ends of the
shanks are recessed. The staple is narrower than the full width of the shank which ensures that the shank
should not move. The process does not exist to-day because modern manufacturers prefer to get the pre-
moulded shoe insole.
2- RIVIT ATTACHING- This method may be described as"pre-shanked insole" where as shank is
attached by a rivet at each end. And must be attached before lasting.
3- TACK ATTACHING- This method is widely followed in India specially in hand made sector. After
lasting the shank is positioned on the waist of the bottom part and it attached with tacks.
4- ADHESIVE ATTACHING- In this method the shanks are attached onto the insole with the help of hot
melt adhesives. Usually after lasting the shank is placed on the waist portion and is sticked with hot melt
adhesives.
5_ BURRIED ATTACHING- In blended insole the shank is positioned in between insole and shank board
which is known as buried shank. This is attached prior to the lasting and secured with rivets or eyelets on the
steel shank. A shank board is pasted on it and the whole insole is moulded (including shank). In this method
there is no chance of squeaking and as the shank is buried. It eliminates lasting problems.

Shank Dimensions (mm)

Footwear Type Shank Type Thickness Width Fluting

(min.)
Casuals Tempered Steel 0.9 9.5 Shallow

Children's 0.9 9.5 Shallow

Women's-heel height < 3 cm 0.9 9.5 Medium

Women's-heel height 3 - 7.5 1.2 Medium

cm
Women's-heel height > 7.5 1.2 14 Deep
cm.
Women's Duty & Casual 1.2 12 Medium

Men's 1.2 15 Medium

Men's Work 1.4 18 Deep

Fluting:- Shallow: 0.5 mm Medium: 1.0 mm Deep: 1.6 mm

Factors Influencing Fashion in Footwear Designing
• Last (Toe Shape)
• Material
• Colors
• Sole
• Accessories
• Apparels

Factors Influencing For Choice of Footwear

• Comfort
• Style
• Fitting
• Weight
• Colour
• Upper
• Fasteners
• Non slippery
• Heel Height

Goodyear Welted
Invented in America by Mr. Goodyear, about 180 years
ago. Initially it was made by hand but now made by
machine also.
•It has too much weight but has very good flexibility.
•We use half plated or heel plated last with C hinge.
•Ribbed insole is mainly used with 5-6 mm thickness.
•First we stitch upper with insole and welt the we stitch
sole together with welt.

Blake Mackay const.

Invented in America by Mr. Blake, about 1850. and also
invented a machine to stitch this construction.
•It stitched upper, insole, welt & sole
together at one time.
•In this construction we can see
stitching at insole but not in GYW.
•Use half plated with C hinge and scoop block last
BLAKE RAPID
The Blake Rapid method is a mixture of the Blake
and Goodyear system. As you can see in the very
helpful infographic below, it keeps the same Blake
Stitch through the insole. This time however it adds
a midsole which is in turn stitched to the outsole
with a machine. The machine is called the “Sutton
Rapid outsole sewing machine” and that’s where the
name comes from. You can resole them easier and
also compromise the uppers less due to the
construction. Additionally, Blake Rapid shoes are a
little more waterproof but also less flexible.

Difference
Stitchdown Construction
It stitches the upper to the midsole/outsole without a
welt. It uses the upper leather to attach to the midsole.
It is often used for more serious work boots such as
those used by wildfire fighters.
Stitchdown construction is simpler to understand. To
make this type of boot, the upper’s leather is pulled out
over the midsole and then attached to the midsole and
outsole with what’s called a rapid stitch.
With stitchdown, it’s almost as though the upper takes
the place of the welt itself. The upper is attached to the
midsole and outsole in one of two ways:
It can be attached with one single stitch that goes through the midsole and outsole, as is the cast with Goodyear
welts.
More commonly, however, the upper is attached to the midsole and outsole with two stitches, called “rapid
stitches” in either mode of construction. The first rapid stitch on the inside attaches the upper to the midsole.
then the second stitch goes through the upper, midsole, and outsole. (Glue is also generally involved to help
attach the upper to the midsole.)
Stitchdown construction is usually recognized by this double stitching, but some only use one row of rapid
stitching. Also, there are other construction methods that use two rows of stitching that aren’t stitchdown. That
said, more often than not, two rows of thick white stitches indicate a pair of stitchdown boots.

Turn Shoe Construction

A turnshoe is a type of leather shoe that was used during the Middle Ages. It was so named because it was put
together inside out, and then was turned right-side-out once finished: this hides the main seam between the
sole and vamp—prolonging the life of the shoe and inhibiting moisture leaking in through the seam.
In the beginning, turnshoes consisted of only one piece of leather sewn on only one side (see carbatinae). In
the late early and the high medieval ages, turnshoes mostly consisted of one sole (cowhide or bovinae) and
one piece of vamp or upper (goat or cowhide or caprinae/bovinae). In the late Middle Ages, additional
elements were added, like doubled soles.

San Crispino construction

The procedure is similar to that of the
“Ideal” method. While in the latter, the edges
of the upper are turned outwards, over the
last, and then stitched to the sole, in the San
Crispino process, which takes its name from
Saint Crispin, allegedly an ingenious
inventor, the upper is folded inwards to wrap
around the insole and then stitched by hand.
In this process, stitching holes are punched
in the upper and insole, which are then sewn
together. The final product is flexible, sturdy
and elegant.
Ideal working
The borders of the upper are flanged outwards, over the last, and then glued and pressed onto the midsole.
This is then attached to the outsole by means of stitching that runs around the outside of the shoe, by using a
machine called “rapid“. Two or even three rows of stitching may be used. Cotton, nylon or other synthetic
threads may be used.
To ensure maximum impermeability, the thread used for stitching is usually pre-treated with melted tar or
pitch.

Norwegian Construction
Despite its name, Norwegian construction is
mainly used in Italy and is one of the trickiest
techniques, as it involves many steps and can
quite rightly be regarded as a fully-fledged work
of art. The technique comes from the one
traditionally used for Northern European hiking
boots.
Designed to make the shoe waterproof, very tough
and suitable for long periods of outdoor wear,
Norwegian construction is also used today as a
hallmark to confirm the extremely high level of
manufacturing excellence of those who use it.
Although there are several names (beksøm in
Norway, goyser or goiser in Austro-Hungarian
tradition) and just as many variants (for example,
Veldtschoen, Tirolese) and not all manufacturers define the same construction in the same way, Norwegian
construction generally has three or four visible rows of stitching, braided into a chain running around the
edge of the shoe.
The braided stitching joins the upper and the insole, while another row of stitching holds the upper and
midsole together.
Linen thread is usually used and there are generally between 300 and 600 stitches.

BOLOGNA
Wow, Italy is really on a roll here. Yet another
Italian construction donning its name from the
homonymous city. It resembles the classic Blake but
with a big change inside. The uppers and lining
continue all the way to the other side wrapping like
a tube. The lining inside a small cavity where your
foot rests has the Bologna Stitch which keeps it
together. Think of a small trench on the inside.
Shoes with Bologna stitching have all the
advantages of regular Blake. A very tight, close-cut
waist and shape and extreme lightness. However, if
it rains…better walk barefoot. Italians like this
method very much and they make excellent
loafers/slippers.
SEWN-IN-SOCK /STRÖBEL
Usually a construction for athletic shoes. You sew the fabric above the insole to the uppers with a Ströbel
machine to create a “sock”. After you cement the sole with adhesive.

Selection of a Last
• According to the Fashion and Trend
• Fitting (according to the customer or place)
• Design (according to footwear construction)
• According to sole
• Segment (Age group)
• Purpose or Utility

Standard classification of last

Age Group English Size French Size

Infant 2-8 18-25

Children 9-1 26-30

Youth 2-5 31-39

Women’s 2-8 43-42

Men’s 6-12 39-46

What are Orthopedic Shoes

When people think of orthopedic shoes they often associate them with older people who have foot or medical
problems and need to wear shoes of this type. In reality, orthopedic shoes are worn by people of all ages who
suffer from poor foot mechanics as they are specifically designed to support the structure and mechanics of
the foot, ankle and leg.
The word 'orthopedic'. 'Ortho" is a Greek word that means 'correct' or 'right' and 'pedic' means 'foot'. Together
the word means 'correct feet'.
There are certain characteristics, or design features, of orthopedic shoes which sets them apart from regular
shoes:
1. Removable insole - this is imperative as many people upgrade to orthotics, diabetic insoles and custom
orthotics.
2. Extra widths & more sizing options - for example, our Pedors Classic is available in three widths and
twenty sizes making 60 different combinations available in one style alone!
3. Uppers that can accommodate forefoot problems : hammertoes or bunions.
4. Easy to fasten - often if people have problems with their feet they will have problems with mobility,
flexibility and even problems with their hands, if they have Arthritis for example. Most orthopedic shoes
favor a hook-and-loop closure for this reason.
5. Seamless uppers with no areas that might cause rubbing or abrasion, and example would be the Pedors
Pedoprene Uppers.
6. A firm and supportive heel to support the rear of the foot.
7. A well cushioned and strong out-sole and mid-sole with defined flex points and impact absorption
properties.

Orthopedic Shoe Inserts

Orthopedic Shoe Inserts
OSI are made of cushioned shock absorbing material, specially the areas around the heel and arch.
OSI assist the muscles and bones of the foot.
Provide the best foot posture and support during walking, standing, running.
They ensure the correct angle of the feet and the ankles and support the arch.
Orthotic inserts can run the full length of the in-sole, or fit into specific position along the insole.
you can buy OSI for specific problem and also specific applications like Running.

Considerations to select the material for orthopedic

• Patient's weight
The more a patient weighs, the thicker the material needs to be. The added thickness is necessary to
accommodate the weight. Shoe style
Most podiatrists factor in the preferred shoe style since orthotics have to be used with shoes. The material for
a dress shoe is different from that of a work boot. This consideration helps ensure the orthotics fit correctly in
the shoe, so they are comfortable and supportive. Biomechanical need
While some feet need cushioning and added comfort, others need support and motion control. Your individual
foot needs will determine the kind of materials used for making your orthotics.
Types of Material
• ACRYLIC
• POLYPROPYLENE
• FIBERGLASS
• EVA
• CORK
• FOAM

Types of Orthopedic shoes

• Padded tongue shoe • Eliminable foot pads
• Wide fit shoe • Fallen Arches shoe
• Spare Patent heel • High Arch shoes