DRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE Axle Repair Clutch Adjustment Clutch Bearing Repair ‘cluteh Repair Drive Belt : Drive Chain Adjustment . Driven Sheave Alignment Driven Sheave Repair Engine Vorisble Drive Sheeve Lower Jackshatt Repair ‘Troubleshooting Upper Jackshatt Repair Variable Speed Drive me 2 18 2 26 7 26 " v7 ” 19 “3 2. 19- 2 2 a a a aSSsRRe £e8 . Clutch Thrust Bearing PICTORIAL SCHEMATIC (Drive System) 2. Variable Speed Drive Sheave Halt (inside 3, Variable Speed Drive Sheave Halt (ousside) 4. Split Jackshatt Halt (Tapered) 5. Variable Speed Driven Sheave Half (Stationary) Sheave Retaining Nut Variable Speed Driven Sheave Half (Movable | Cluteh Actusting Nuts 1. Cluteh Actusting Bar Clutch Actuating Threeds Clutch Linkage Bar Clutch Linkage Shaft Directions! Control Lever Mounting Nut Directional Control Lever Clutch Pin Cluteh Thrust Race Inside Clutch Plate Intermediate Chein Tightener uteh Lining Outside Clutch Plate Intermediate (Inside Clutch cain Lower Jackshatt Sprocket Assombly Clutch Hexagon Thrust Block (woe) Final Drive Chain ‘Axle Sprocket te : pale Hud (Ouse) he _n pate Socket Space Cy Ue leat Src . Clutch Drive (Outside Clutch) nna? Chain ) ‘Axle Sprocket Holding Nut Split Jackshatt Halt VIEWED FROM RIGHT Split Jackahatt Connector Block SIDE OF MACHINE M444, M500, M600 LoadersDRIVE SYSTEM SERVICE ROUTINE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT ‘The Bobcat has two separate drive tains (one on each sie of the machine) each equipped with two clutches. These clutches are engaged end disengaged by the directional contol When lever travel (from neutral) exceeds four inches In either direction, the clutehes need adjustment. This may occur shortly (about $0 hours) after 8 new machine is put into service. After the clutch facings are “seated”, lover travel should be checked every 100 hours and the clutches adjusted only if lever travel is excessive, (On either side of the machine, the clutch toward the front i the reverse travel clutch and the clutch toward the rear is the forward travel clutch. Adjust according to the following procedure 1. Shut off the engine before attempting to adjust the clutches. 2. With the large clutch cap wrench, remove the protective caps from the four clutch 3, Remove the cotter pins which hold the castle nuts in place, 4, With the directional control lever in neutral position, tighten the front castle nut 1/2 slot. Move the lever back to check the adjustment. Repeat this until no more adjustment Is needed. When the handle (hand grip] of the lever can be moved 3 to 4 inches (maximum) back from neutral to fully engaged position, adjustment of the reverse travel clutch i correct for that side. You may need to use the smal end of the Clutch wrench to make the adjustment (Figure 1). 5. Tighten the rear castle nut in the same manner, moving the lever forward to check: travel (maximum) from neutral, sdjustment of the forward travel clutch is cor rect for that side 6. Repeat these adjustments on the other side of the machine. When you have finshed, ‘the levers on both sides should be in line when they are both moved forward or ‘back to fully engaged position 7. Aftar completing this adjustment, secure each castle nut with a cotter pin and tighten the protective cape over the clutch pins witha clutch eap wrench, 8. If the quad ring seal sticks to the side panel when @ clutch cap is removed, carefully pull the qued ring from the panel and place it in its groove in the cap. Spread a litte oil around the quad ring seal before replacing the cap. If il leakage is noted ‘around the clutch eaps, the quad ring seals must be replaced. Do not overtighten the clutches. Ovetightening will ‘cause the clutches to be partially engaged when the control lever is in neutral. This causes hard starting and clutch wear [Afterall four clutch pins have been adjusted and the protective caps have been installed, sit in the operators set and start the engine. With the diectionsl control levers in neutral, ‘the machine should stand stil, If the machine creape, rocks, or jumps back and forth, ‘the clutches are set {09 tight and must be readjusted, Note: 1 nothing happens when a directional control lever is moved one way, but the ‘clutch engages whan the lever is moved the opposite way, (1) there has been clutch failure, (2) the needle thrust bearings may be defective, (3) the clutch ‘actuating thread may be stripped. a Fig. 14 Route Cluten Actustment M444, 1500, M600 Loaders2 pritie' Fig. 17 Removing Sprocket From Ider Fig. 18 Removing Inside Clteh Plater CLUTCH REMOVAL AND REPAIR 125 mJ ‘Tne directional control clutches are located inside the guarcases and are ectuated by 2 large square thread screw machenism on e6ch clutch. One clutch on each side of the ‘machine is controlled by & right hand thresd nut, the other by a left hand thread nut Moving the directional control lever turns both of the cluteh actuating nuts in the same direction atthe same time, Because one is aright hend thread and the other is a left hand, they will use one clutch to engage while the other clutch moves away from engagement (One of these clutches controls forward movement of the wheels on thet side of the machine: the other clutch controls the reverse movement of the wheels Directional control clutch failure is usually caused by a thrust bearing fllure or failure of the clutch actuating nuts The clutch failure may be one of several types! 1. The eluten actuating nuts may come aut of adjustment if the clutch pins they are mounted on turn in the geacase inno sidewall 2. The actuating threads and nuts may wear and become sticky. In some eases 2 wear pattern in the actuating nut wil cause the clutches to stick in engaged position 3, ‘The actuating aut may wear enough so thet It rubs on the inside gearease sidewall {Clutch lining life is quite long and lining replacement is usully not necessary. The clutch ‘thrust bearings and the harGened clutch thrust races thet the bearings run between usually fail prior to cluteh lining failure, The hardened clutch thrust races are ground on both sides ‘and may be turned over to secure @ new wear surface. The clutch thrust bearings should normally be replaced when the clutches are removed for actuating nut service. Follow this procedure to remove the clutch and actuating assembly 1, Remove the protective clutch caps and the gearcase cover. 2. Loosen the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain idler sprocket and remove the clutch rive chai, 3, Remove the cotter pins from the castle nuts and remove the castle nuts 44. Remove the large hexagon clutch thrust blocks (nuts, 15. Remove the thrust bearings and races. Notice that each clutch thrust bearing Is ‘mounted between two hardened clutch thrust races (Figure 18) 6, Remove the outside eluteh ple 4 lining (Figure 16) 7. Remove the sprocket from the intermediate idler (Figure 17)-Thisis necessary to gain enough slack in the intermediate (inside clutch} chain so that the chain can be released {rom the inside clutch sprockets 8. Remove the inside clutch plates, hardened races and thrust beorings (Figure 18). 9. Disconnect the clutch sctusting linkage and centering sring 10. Remove the seat and engine cover 11. Remove the hydraulic lines to the ‘luteh pins (Figure 19). 12, Remove the clutch pin holding nuts. 13, Remove the clutch pins and sctu ating bar (Figure 20). Fig, 19 Removing Hy. Lines To Clutch Pins Fig. 20 Removing Gluten Pins & Bsr 12. M444, M1500, M:600 LoadersTo reinstall the clutch pins, proceed os Ce NOTE: The sharp edges are purposely broken from the actuating thresde to keep them from breaking in use and jamming the threads. 1. Assemble the clutch actuating auts Cc fonto the sctuating bar: A Fce the actuating bar as you would if it were in the machine 8, Place the right hand threaded actuating nut into the right elev Saree WITH THE CONTROL LEVER HAND eee ie GRIP 4” FORWARD OF NEUTRAL, ‘screws, being sure that 2 small THE REAR ACTUATING NUT AND Soria wari lcd i the THREAD SHOULD HAVE “FULL histo ach acuatng TanEAD CONTACT TA OWIT Wateh the washer to be sure It doesn’t slip off the shoulder of the socket head screw when the serew is being tightened. This would cause it to be flot- ‘toned agsinst the back of the actuating bar clovs. D. Turn the clutch pins into the setuating nuts, 2. Install the assembly into the machine A Grasp the right etch pin in your fight hand and the left | ¢ clutch pin in your left hand. B. Place the assembly inthe clutch pin mounting hoes NOTE: Install a new lead seal over ‘the clutch pin threads each ‘ime. Fig. 22 Full Tweed Contact Res G.Turn the clutch pin holding nuts Alarge 7/8” nuts) onto the clutch pins and draw the clutch pins up until they are just snug in FULL THREAD CONTACT | | NOTE: ‘The nuts mustbe tight enough WRONG s0 the pins will not tum une der hand pressure. D. Connect the actuating bar to the lever linkage bar, ‘3. To insure positive clutch engagement the clutch pins are adjusted at this point. A. Move the directional control lever forward 1 the hand grip is approximately 4” ahead of its neutral postion (Figure 22). js full dead contact between the actuating threads (Figures 2 and 23h Fig. 23 Full Tiraod Contect, Priss aa 1m.444, 1500, M600 Loadersfae a 10, " Fg. 25 Checking Sprocket Alignment NOTE: To turn the clutch pin, turn the castle nut onto the outside of the clutch pin +0 the slots in the nut are toward the machine. Put a pin through the slots in the nut and the hole in the pin. Turn the pin with a wrench, ©. When the rear clutch pin has the right adjustment, tighten the eluteh pin holding nut. Use 2 wranch on the cattle nut to hold the clutch pin while ‘you are tightening the holding nut. This prevents turning the clutch pin. 1D. Mount she inside clutch plates. ‘The clutch thrust bearing may fall from the end of ‘the cluteh hub when an inside clutch is being instate, Put 2 small amount of grease on the thrust bearing to hold it on the hub, or hold it with your fingers as you replace the clutch plate, Use new thrust bearings E. Align the front clutch plate to the rear clutch plate with both clutehes in neutral position. Ley & straightedge along the faces of the clutch plates and turn the front cluteh pin until the clutch plates ere inline (Figure 24). Tighten the holding nut, holding the clutch pin soit doesn’t tur, Mount the intermediate (inside clutch) chein and replace the idler sprocket. Tighten the chao, NOTE: The intermediate chain goes over the idler sprocket, under the sprockst fon the front eluteh and over the sprocket on the rear clutch. Install the clutch linings onto the inside clutch plates. Make sure the linings fit easily over the shoulders on the inside elutch plates. Ifa lining does not side easly over the shoulder, file or sandpaper the inside diemeter of the lining until it fits loosely on the shoulder, 1M the lining is forced onto the shoulder of the clutch plate it may crack the canter member of the lining ‘and cause a fining failure after only 8 fow hours service. must turn freely on the clutch plate, Mount the ouside lutch plates. Install the hardened thrust races and clutch thrust bearings on the outside clutch plates. The hardened race ie mounted on the shoulder of the clutch plate, followed by the theust bearing NOTE: Turn the thrust race mounted in the large hexagon thrust block (nt) and the thrust race on the elutch plate to the sides that have not been in con- ‘tact with the thrust bearing. f both sides have been worn, replace the thrust races. Install new thrust beatings. Loosen the self sligning portion of the large hexagon thrust block (nut) with the handle of a serewdriver (Figure 26). If it eannot be loosened by this method, place it into 2 vise or press and loosen it, being careful not to damage the wearing surface fof the hardened race, Intal the large hexagon thrust blocks (nut) Install the castle nuts and cotter pins. With @ straightedge, check the alignment of the upper jackshaft sprocket with the outside clutch sprockets (Figure 26) a4. M444, M500, M600 Loaders12, 13, ¥4 16. 16. Reinstall the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain, tightening it hand tight (Figure 27) It should be tight enough so that It can be deflected 1/4” under 10 lbs. spring scale ‘tension (Figute 28). Install the gearcase cover. Check the lever travel and adjust the clutches if necessary (See Routine Clutch Acjust Replace the protective clutch caps Replace the hydraulic lines to the clutch pins In most cases you will not be removing the forward and reverse clutches at the same time. “To remove one ofthe elutches and its actusting nut, proced es folows: 1 2 10. " Femove the protective clutch caps and the gearcase cover. + Loosen the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain idler sprocket and remove the clutch drive chain Femove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the caste nut. Remove the hexagon clutch thrust Hock (rut). Femove the thrust bearing and the hardened thrust race. Notice that the clutch thrust bearing is mounted between two hardened clutch thrust races (Figure 18) Remove the outside clutch plate and lining (Figure 16). Loosen the intermediate chain idler. Remove the sprocket from the intermediate idler (Figure 17). This is necessary to gain enough slack in the intermediate (Inside eluteh) chain go that the chain can be released from the inside clutch sprockets, Remove the inside clutch plate, hardened thrust race and thrust bearing Figure 18) Remove the socket heed shoulder screw that fastens the clutch actuating bar to the saetuating nut. Be careful to save the small spring washer which is located in the ‘actuating bar clevis (behind the actuating nut) Remove the hydraulic tubeline (Figure 18).and clutch pin holding nut on the inside (of the loader frame, Remove the clutch pin from the frame. ‘The clutch actuating nut is mated to the clutch actuating thread, which is fastened to the clutch pin with a woodruff key. To change the clutch sctuating nut and ‘thread, tap the assembly off the clutch pin and replace with a new threed and nut. To reinstall a clutch, follow this procedure: 1 Install the clutch pin, with an actuating thread and aut on it into the elutch pin mounting hole. Use 2 new lesd washer each time. Turn the clutch holding aut onto the clutch pin end draw the clutch pin up until iti just snug in the frame. Fasten the actuating nut to the actuating bar. Be sure to insert the sinall spcing washer into the clevis behind the actusting nut. Be sure the washer doesn't slip off the shoulder of the socket head shoulder screw when you're tightening the screw. “This would cause it tobe flatened agnnst the back ofthe actuating bar clevis. Check for straightness of the actuating ber. Straighten if necessary. Remove these parts from the other clutch assembly ‘A. Cotter pin and cate nut B. Hexagon thrust block (nut), thrust bearing and race (Figure 15). ©. Outside clutch plateFigure 16)and cluteh ining . Inside clutch plate, theustrace and bearing (Figure 18). 15. Fig. 28 Checking Tension of Clutch Chain NOTE: Proper sprocket alignment and chain tension are necessary for satisfactory chain life. Do not adjust or fully engage the clutches undl the side panel is io place or you might jam the seit aligning portion of the nut. M444, 500, M600 LoadersE. Loosen the hydraulic tubeline at the clutch pin holding nut end. Loosen the clutch pin holding nut lightly (this nut is located inside the loader frame). ‘To insure postive clutch engagement the clutch pins ae adjusted at this point: ‘A. Move the directional control lever forward so the hand grip is approximately 4" ahead of its neutral position (Figure 22. B. Tum the rear clutch pin so there i fll thread contact between the actuating fut and actuating thread (Figures 22 and 23} NOTE: To turn the clutch pin, tun the castle nut onto the outside of the cluteh pin so the slots in the nut are toward the machine. Put a pin ‘through the slots in the nut and the hole in the pin. Turn the pin with @ wrench, When the rear clutch pin has the right aojustment, tighten the clutch pin holding nut. Use @ wrench on the castle nut to hold the clutch pin while ‘you are tightening i Mount the inside clutch plates. ‘The clutch thrust bearing may fall from the end of the clutch shoulder when an inside clutch is being Installed. Put 2 small amount of grease on the thrust bearing to hold it on the shoulder, or hold it with your fingers as you replace the clutch plats. Use a new thrust bearing, Turn the hardened thrust races so an unworn ‘ide comes in contact with the new thrust bearing. ‘Align the front cluteh plate to the rear clutch plate with both clutches in neutral position. Lay straightedge slong the feces of the clutch plates and turn the front clutch pin until the clutch plates are in line (Figure 24) Tighten the clutch pin holding nut, holding the castle nut with a wrench to keep the clutch pin from turning Mount the intermediate (inside clutch) chain and replace the idler sprocket. Tighten the chan, NOTE: The intermediate chain goes over the idler sprocket, under the sprocket ‘on the front clutch and over the sprocket on the rear clutch. Intall the cluteh linings onto the inside clutch plates, Make sure the linings fit ly over the shoulders on the inside clutch plates. If @ lining does not side ‘easly over the shoulder, file or sandpaper the inside diameter of the fining uti it fits. prope 1 the lining is forced onto the shoulder of the elutch plate it may erecke the conter member of the lining and cause 2 fining failure after only @ few hours service Hf must turn freely on the clutch plate. Mount the outside clutch plates, Install the hardened thrust races and clutch thrust bearings on the outside clutch plates, The hardened race is mounted on the shoulder of the clutch plate, followed by the thrust besring. NOTE: Turn the thrust rece mounted in the large hexagon thrust (nut) and the ‘thrust race on the clutch plate to the sides that have not been in contact with the thrust Bearing. Hf both sides have been worn, replace the thrust races, Install new thrust bearings. 16 1M-444, M-500, M-600 Loaders8. Loosen the self aligning portion of the large hexsgon thrust block (nut) with the NOTE: Correct sprocket alignment is nec: handle of @ screwdriver (Figure 25). If it cannot be locsened by this method, place ‘essary for satistactory chain life, It into 2 vise or press and loosen it, (being careful not to damage the wearing surface Of the hardened racelorrepiace it with new assembly. Cc 10, Install the large hexagon thrust blocks (nuts). 11. Install the castle nuts ond cotter pins. 12, With the directions! control lever in neutral, check the alignment of the upper jack- shaft sprocket withthe rear outside eluteh sprockets (Figure 26). NOTE: (On the left side of the machine (with tapered jeckshaft)afign the belt, ‘then shim the upper jackshatt sprocket for alignment. Refer to page 12. 13, Reinstall the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain, tightening it hand tight (Figure 27), It should be tight enough to that It can be deflected 1/4" under 10 Ths. spring seale tension (Figure 28) Be sure the Intermediate chain has been tightened (Figure 20). It should require 15 tos. spring sele tension to deflect it 1/4” (Figure 20) 14. Install the guarcase cover. Check the condition of the gasket 15, Check the lever travel snd adjust the clutches If necessary (See Routine Clutch Adjustment). Fig. 29 Tohtning Intermediate Chain 16. Replace the protective clutch caps. Check the condition of the quad ring seals, 17, Replace the hydraulic lines to the clutch pins. REPLACING CLUTCH NEEDLE BEARINGS ‘When replacing clutch needle besrings, press one bearing in from each side of the clutch plate. The bearings should be pressed in so they are flush with the outside of the hub ‘The variable speed drive mechanism on every Bobest is factory adjusted, but it may, in time, 1. If the bele i bottoming and slipping in the drive (engine) sheave, the operator should nudge the variable speed lever slightly toward higher speed. This will bring ‘the sides of the sheave in to where they can grip the belt. NOTE: Bost balt bottoming and slipping can be avoided. Whenever the operator places the variable speed in low speed position, he should nudge the lever {forward to move the belt slightly outward from the hub. 2, If the belt sips and is not bottoming, tighten it by turning the three nuts on the soring loaded jackshaft sheave. Tighten these nuts evenly, one turn at 2 time. After tightening each nut one tur, start the machine and check for slippage. mu 13, If the belt continues to slp, it may be worn too narrow to be gripped by the drive Fig. 31 Replacing Clutch Newlin Bearings sheave, in which case it should be replaced with @ new belt. The spring loaded jack- shaft sheave must be readjusted after replacing the belt. A new belt is 1-13/16' Wide at the top. When 8 new belt is installed adjust the three nuts on the spring loaded jackshaft sheave so 1/4 inch of thread shows past the three nuts, Do not overtighten the springoaded jackshatt sheave because this will cause the belt to woar excessively. 47 ‘M444, M500, M-600 LoadersDRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT (Split Jackshaft) 1.5 6] (On machines with a spit jackshaft use the following procedure: 1. Remove the outside portion of the engine variable width sheave and hydraulic cylinder assembly, located at the left rear of the machine, on the engine output shaft (Figute 32). Clean the cylinder and hose before disconnecting the fitting, Pug the cylinder port and hose to keep ovt dirt. NOTE: Observe whether there are any spacers between the variable speed cylin bracket and the frame brackets, These spacers must be replaced 25 they were (M600 and M500 gasoline and LP gal. (On machines with swivel coupling, remove the swivel, then remove the large holding nut to separate the sheave halves (V-600 and M-50O diese, [M600 and M500 electric, M444 gasoline and LP gat. 2. Remove the split jackshatt connector (Figure 33). The connector must be replaced In the same position a it was before removal. Matched ends sre punch marked. Keep ‘the marked ends of the block toward the sheave, 3, Pass the worn belt between the shaft ends and replace it with «new bet. 4. Reinstall the split jackshatt connector, exactly at it was before. Four sorew heads should be up and four down. Retorque the eight connector serews to 18-20 ‘R. Ibs, torque, The screws must be tightened down evenly. Fig. 33 Removing Jacksutt Connector 5. Pull the belt with @ pry ber to force it into the driven sheave (Figure 34). This will rake it possible to replace the outside (engine) sheave half. Do not use a tat bar, 35 It will damage the belt. NOTE: The spring loaded variable width sheave will have to be readjusted after 4 now tole is installed because new belt is wider than an old, worn belt. 6. Reinstall the outside drive sheave half and reconnect the hyéraulic hese. Align the balance marks on the sheave halves when reinstalling. Fig. 34 Pllng 8 Into Oren Shaove 7. Check the belt alignment ofthe dive and driven sheaves (Figure 35) TE A LF AR ‘AY A STAIGTEDGE ALONE DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT (One Piece Jackshaft) {5 we. THE Dano SHOVES S10 (On machines with a one pecejackshaft, use the following procedure 1. Remove the outside portion ofthe engine varlable width sheave and hydraulic cylinder assembly, locted at the left rear of the machine, on the engine output shaft (Figure 32) Clean the eylinder and hose before disconnecting the fitting. Plug the evlinder ort and hose to keep out dirt. NOTE: Observe whether there are any spacers between the variable speed eyilnder ‘mounting bracket and the frame brackets. These spacers mutt be replaced as they were (M500 gasoline and LP ges ‘On machines witha swivel coupling, remove the swivel, then remove the farge holding nut to separate the sheave halves (M500 diesel, M-600 and +500 lectric, M-444 gatoline and LP gas). 2. Remove the protective clutch caps from both side ofthe machine. 3. Remove both gearcase covers. 44. Looten the eluteh drive (outside clutch) chain tighteners and remove the clutch drive chains 5, Remove the sprocket retaining screws and the sprockets from both ands of the js shaft M444, M600, M-800 Losder,10. 1, 13, 14 16. NOTE: You may need to use @ puller to remove the sprocket from the end of the shaft. Remove the sprocket retaining serow from the jackshaft and remove the retaining washers. Turn the screw back into the end of the shaft (Figure 36). Loosen the set sorews in the hub of the stationary half ofthe riven sheave Drive the driven sheave assembly towsrd the right far enough so the square key can be removed from the jeckshatt. Remove the square key and move the sheave assembly back toward the let. Remove the bearing locking collar from each end of the jackshaft. Loosen the sat serew in the bearing locking collar (Figure 37} and rotate the collar opposite ‘the shaft rotation unl itis loose on the bearing (Figure 38}. Rotating it about 3/4 will unlock it. Rotating it to far will reloc it (backward). “Thoroughly cleo that portion of the right end of the jeckshefe which wil be ven through the right bears. Drive the jackshstt to the right (through the sheave) far enough to pess the belt between the jocksheft and the machine sidewall Remove the worn belt and replace it with 2 new one “To reassemble, align the jackshatt sprocket with the outside clutch sprockets on the ‘ight side of the machine. When they are aligned, lock the bearing locking collar onto ‘the bearing hub by rotating it in the direction of sheft rotation (Figure 39) Tighten the locking collar set serew (Figure 37). Mount the sorocket on the left end of the jackshaft and slign it to the outer clutch sprockets. Use thim washers if necessary. Lock the locking collar by turning it inthe direction of shaft rotation. Tighten the locking collar set screw (Figure 37) NOTE: The spring loaded driven sheave wil have to be readjustod sftor a now belt it installed because new belt is wider than an old, worn belt. FReinsert the key and set screws in the driven sheave hub. Check the alignment Of the drive and driven sheaves (Figure 35). Move the driven sheave on the jackshaft 10 align. Tighten the sat screws DRIVEN SHEAVE REMOVAL (Split Jackshaft) (3 n-1 To remove a driven (spring loaded) sheave, procoed as follows 1 Remove the outside portion of the engine variable width sheave and hydraulic cylinder assembly, located at the left rear of the machine, on the engine output shaft (Figure 32). Clean the cylinder and hose before disconnecting the fitting. Plug the cylinder port and hose to keep out dirt NOTE: Observe whether there are any spacers between the variable speed cylinder ‘mounting bracket and the frame brackets. These spacers must be replaced 235 they wore (M500 Kohler & M600 Wisconsin). ‘On machines with a swivel coupling, remove the swivel, then remove the large holding nut to separate the sheave halves. Remove the protective clutch caps from the lft gearcase cover. Loosen the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain tightener and remove the clutch rive chain, Femove the sprocket retaining screw and the sprocket from the end of the jack shaft NOTE: You may need to use a puller to remove the sprocket from the end of the shaft. Remove the sprocket retaining serew from the jackshaft and remove ‘the retaining washers. Turn the screw back into the end of the jackshatt (igure 36) a9. Fig. 36 Pulling Uoper Jackett Sorocket Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39 Fig. 40 Loosening Set Seraw Reinsalng Searing Locking Collet ‘checking Soroskat Alanment M444, M500, 600 LoaderFig. a1 Fig. 42 Removing Split Jckote - Fig Afton Bo io rhe Sn p gO2_w ear ore seas an THE bane SHEE AS. StOM Fig. 45 (Checking Bal Alignment 6. Remove the bearing lacking collar from the jackshatt, Loosen the set screw inthe boring locking collar (Figure 37) and rotate the collar opposite the shaft rotation ‘until it is loose on the bearing (Figure 38). Rotating it 3/4” will unlock it. Rotating it 100 far will rlock it (backward) 7. Remove the split jackthaft connector (Figure 41). The connector must be replaced inthe same position as it was before removal 8, Drive the jockshaft half tonard the center of the machine with a rubber or plastic mallet (Figure 42). ‘9, Pull the assembly into the opening in front of the engine and remove it by pulling it straight up on all machinet except the M-500 gasoline and LP gas (Figure 43} (On these models (M500 gasoline and LP gas) take the assembly out through the bottom of the machine “These parts must be removed from the machine to make removal of the jackshaft and sheave assembly posible, ‘A. On M600 gatoline and LP gas machines, remove the following 18, The hydraulic tubeline from the elutch lubrication manifold to the lft ear cluteh pin, Disconnect and remove the battery ©. Remove the hydraulic lines from the variable speed control valve to the check (lock) vale, If the machine is not equipped with a check valve, re move the hydreulic line from the variable speed control valve to the variable speed eylindar hose. 8, On M4600 and M-500 diesel machines, remove the following: 1a. The hydraulic tubeline fram the clutch lubrication manifold to the let rear elutes pin. 'b. Remove the hydraulic lines from the variable speed control valve to the check (lock) valve. If the machine is not equipped with a check valve move the hydraulic line from the variable speed control valve to the variable speed eylinder hose. ‘To reinstall 2 driven (spring loaded) sheave, proceed 2s follows: (Split Jackshaft) 1. Insert the assembly (spring loaded sheave and jackshaft half) into the machine (igure 43) 2, Install variable speed bet over the jackshatt. 3. Reinstall the split jeckshaft connector, matched ends topsther (Figure 41), Four screw heads should be up and four dovin, Tighten the screws down evenly 4, Pull the belt into the diven sheave with a pry bar (Figure 44). This will meke it possible to replace the outside (engine) sheave half. Do not use a flet bar, es this will damage the bel. 5. Reinstall the outside drive sheave half and reconnect the hydraulic hose, Align the balance marks on the sheave halves when reinstalling. 6, Mount the sprocket on the end of the jacksheft, Align the sprocket with the outside cluteh sprockets (Figure 40) 7. Lock the bearing locking colar on the bearing hub by turning it in the direction of shatt rotation (Figure 36). 8, Tighten the locking collar sat serew (Figure 37). 8, Rainetll the cluteh drive chain. Tighten the chain hand tight (Figure 46). You should bbe able to deflect the chain 1/4 using 10 tos. of spring sete tension (Figure 47) 10, Reinstall the georcase cover and protective clutch caps. 20 (M448, 1500, M600 Loaders ”ie) Cc 11. Reinstall the split jeckshaft connector and tighten the screws down evenly to 18-20 tbe 12, Check the belt alignment of the drive and dtiven sheaves (Figure 46}. If the belt fs net propery aligned, do this: A. Start the engine and move the variable speed belt to half variable position. Stop the engine B, Loosen the set screws on the hub of the stationary half of the sheave. Move ‘the sheave sideways on the jockshaft until proper alignment is achieved, DRIVEN SHEAVE DISASSEMBLY ‘To disassemble the driven sheave assembly after it has been removed from the machine, follow this procedure: (tapered split jackshatt) 1. Remove the grease fitting 2. Remove the three spring retaining nuts Remove the spring ‘Remove the movable hal of the sheave from the shaft. Remove the sheave retaining nut, A special wrench is avilable for this. pea e Remove the sheave half by tapping the end of the shaft on a block of wood (Figure 48), To reesemble the sheave onto the tapered split jackshaft: 1. Tep the shaft into the tapered bore on the fixed halt of the sioave (Figure 49) Be sure the key is being included in the assembly. 2, Mount the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 130 ft. Ibs. torque. Use a spanner for punch and hammer neh 3. Check the movable half of the sheave to determine the condition of the grease seals. Replace the seals if they have boon allowing grease to pass. Replace the ‘bushings if they are worn and aliowing the movable half of the sheave to vibrate fF wobble on the shaft 4. Mount the movable ha of the sheave on the shat. 5. Mount the spring. 6. Loosen the nut on one of the guide bolts and slide the bolt through far enough 50.2 spring retaining nut can be started (Figure 60) 7. Retighten the nut on the guide bolt to its former postion. 8, Start the other spring retaining nuts and tighten them until they are flush with the ends of the guide bolts 8, Insert the grease fitting (Figure 61. To disassemble the driven sheave assembly after it has been removed from the machine, follow this procedure: (all except tapered jackshat units) 4. Remove the grese fitting 2. Remove the three spring retaining nuts 3. Remove the spring. 4. Separate the sheave halves. To reassemble: 1. Check the movable half of the sheave to determine the condition of the grease seals. Replace the seals if they have been allowing grease to pass. Replace the bushings if a Fig. 45. Tahtoing Clutch Drive Chain Fig. 49 Driving Shett tre Sheove rise Fig. 50 Mounting Spring Retaining Pate M444, M500, M600 LoadersINSERT THE FITTING sy wae Fig. 61 Insert The Grease Fitting p=] ai Fig, 64 CED MODEL___PARTNO.__A wes00g 6605062 971 6000 8000 weno es0ate 178 e002 weeaoe — eeaRa7e 4 Fig. 52 Spt Tow snot emeing Bening Locking Cole Fig. 55 Reinsaling Goring Locking Collar ‘they are worn and allowing the movabié half of the sheave to vibrate or wobble on the shaft 2, Mount the movable half ofthe sheave over the qude bolts 2, Mount the spring 4. Loosen the nut on one of the guide bolts and slide the bolt through fer enough 50 a saring retaining nut cen be started (Figure 60). 5. Retighten the nut on the guide bolt to its former position 6. Start the other spring retaining nuts and tighten them until they are flush with the ends of the quide bolts, 7. Insert the grease fiting (Figure 51). The grease fitting must be slotted relief type to prevent overgresing and seal damage NOTE: Not al tapered jeckshatt halves ae the same. See Figure S2 for dimensional differences and models used on DRIVEN SHEAVE ALIGNMENT (Belt Alignment) 1. Check to be sure the fixed half of the sheave is tight on the jackshatt, and has rot moved sideways on the shaft, causing belt misalignment. This can be checked by laying a straightedge along the driven sheave with the belt at half variable position “The belt should be parallel to the straightedge along its entre length (Figure 48) 1.2 Check the condition of the movable half of the sheave to see that it slides freely ‘on the shat, It may have to be cloned and relubricated, and new grease sels installed, CCheck the condition of the three sliding studs (guide bolts) and related cilte bearings to be sure excessive wear has not caused wobbly motion (or vibration) ‘of the two sheave halves and belt breakage. If the variable speed belt is not property aligned it will be necessary to move the driven sheave sideways until iis. On machines with tapered split ackshatt, do this 1. Remove the left gearcase cover. 2. Loosen the split jackshatt connector. 3. Remove the clutch dr {outside clutch) chain. 4, Remove the sprocket retaining serew and the sprocket from the end of the jackshaft. NOTE: You may need to use a puller to remove the sprocket from the end of the shaft. Remove the sprocket retaining crow from the jackshaft and remove the retaining washers. Turn the screw back into the end of the jackshaft (Figure 53). 15. Remove the bearing locking collar set screw (Figure 37) and the bearing locking collar (Figute 54). from the jackshaft. Loosen the besring lacking collar by turning it ‘opposite the direction of shaft rotation 6. Slide the jckshaft half to the desired position and tighten the 8 connector serews. Tighten the stews evenly to 18-20 ft. Ibe. torque 7. Recheck the alignment (Figure 45) 8, Reinstall and tighten the bearing locking collar on the bearing hub. To tighten it, ‘utn it in the dicection of rotation (Figure 55) 8, Mount the jackshaft sprocket. Use spacer washers to align the sprocket with the outside clutch sprockets. Check the alignment (Figure 40). Install the sprocket retaining washer and serew. 10. Reinstall the eldten drive chain. Tighten the chain hand tight (Figure 46). You should be abe to deflect the chain 1/4 using 10 Ibs. of spring cae tension (Figure 47), 111, Reinstall the garcase cover and the protective clutch caps. 2. M444, M500, M600 Loaders‘On machines without a tapered split jackshaft it Is not necessary to remove the gearcase cover and jackshaft sprocket when aligning the belt, Proceed as follows: aA AT LF 1. Loosen the two set screws which hold the driven sheave to the shaft. They are located on the hub of the stationary half of the sheave between the sheave assembly and the machine sidewall) 2. Slide or dive the sheave the direction needed to give proper belt alignment. 3, Recheck the alignment (Figure 56). 4. Tighten the two set sores securely UPPER JACKSHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT (15 tr Remove and replace an upper jackshatt bearing as follows: Remove the protective clutch caps and the gearcase cover. 2. Remove the clutch drive (outside clutch) chain, 3. Remove the sprocket retaining terew and the sprocket from the end ofthe jeckshaft NOTE: You may need to use 2 puller to remove the sprocket from the end of the shaft. Remove the sprocket retaining screw from the jackshaft and remove ‘the retaining washers. Turn the screw back into the end of the jackshaft (Figure 83). 4. Remove the bearing locking collar set screws (Figure 37) and the bearing locking collar (Figure 4) from the jackshaft. Loosen the bearing locking collar by turning it ‘opposite the direction of shaft rotation, Fig. 57. Removing Beating from Housing 5. Remove the four nuts which hold the bearing housing to the gearcese sidewall and pull the bearing and housing from the shaft 6 Insert a length of sheft material same diameter as the jackshaft) into the bearing Cc ‘nd pull on the’shaft until the bearing becomes free of the housing (Figure 57) To reinstal: 1. Place a new bearing vertically into the housing, You should be able to turn it freely in the housing (Figure 58). If you can't, replace the housing with a new anios Fig. $8 Checking Housing Tolerence 2. With a length of shaft material inserted into the bearing, ratate it into the housing (Figure 57). It should not take over 200 in. Ibs force to rotate the bearing into the housing NOTE: The offsat hub of the bearing must be toward the flanged side of the housing (not at the flat mounting si 3. When mounting the housing to the gearoase inner sidewall, use new sealing washers behind the nuts to prevent oll leakage. ENGINE VARIABLE DRIVE SHEAVE REMOVAL «1 1 é a Use the following procedure to pull an engine variable drive sheave (M-600D, MEO0D & oe M600): Fig. 89 Removing Holding Screw & Washer 1. Remove the holding serew and machined holding wather (Figure 59), 2. Remove the washer from the holding screw and replace the screw in the end of the crankshaft. Turn it in until the head of the serew bottoms agdinst the crankshaft, 3, Insert 1/4” cap screws into the tapped holes in the fixed sheave hub. Fig. 60 Mount Pulec on Shenve Hat M444, M500, M600 Loaders ~rane Fig. 61 Paling Sane Hat from Shae al fs" — > 7/8" ano. Fig. 62 Locton of Aliant Hole Fig Fig. Loosen the Intermedite Chain 5. Pull te shave haf from the engine shett (Figure 61) Use the following procedure to pull an engine variable drive sheave (M-500G, M444, M-600E & M5008). 1. Loosin the two st srs in the stationary sheave hal 2. Install a bearing puller (Figure 60), tightening the puller Fimiy behing the keys. 23. Pull the sheave half from the engine shtt (Figure 61. DRIVE SHEAVE MODIFICATION (M-444, M600, M-500D, M-GO0E & MS00E) tm) Replacing the roll pins in these sheave half asemblies with sat screws will prevent possible sheave damage due to roll pine working out of place. To modify, follow these steps: 1. Press the cylinder barrel into the sheave half a6 far as it will go. Use 2 long bolt with large washers on each end to hold it in place. 2. Locate ond dril a 19/64” hole (Figure 62) 3, Insert @ 6/16" x 1/2" long roll pin into the hole. This wil assure alignment when dilling future holes 4. Using the pilot holes in the sheave half, drill three 16/16” holes through the cylinder bore 5. Tap the holes 3/8” NC, but only to within 1/16" of eylinder barrel inner surface. NOTE: It is important thot the sot screws bottom out in the threads ofthe cylinder barrel. Use LocTite®on the serews to koop them securely in place. 16. When assembling the sheave halves be sure to align the arrow on the movable half to the chisel mark on the fixed half [AXLE REMOVAL [Remove ard Repce 25 ont) 35 ht To remove an sxle from the Bobeat loder: (font axle) 1. Drain she oil fom the gebrease 2. alse the side ofthe machine tha the axle wil be removed fom, 3, Disconnect the linkege from the foot pedals. 4, Remove the floor panels Remove the wheel from the axle that i¢ to be removed, Fig, 65 Loown thw Final Drive Chains 6. Remove the gearcase cover (Fig re 63), 7. Loosen the intermediate (inside clutch} chain (Figure 64). 8, Looten the final dive chains (Fig ures 65 and 88), 8. Remove the oil cap at the end Fig. 67 Rereving Oi! Cap ond of Axle of the axle (Figure 67). M-444, M500, M-600 Loaders10. Remove the cotter pin from the : nT castle nut and remove the castle. rut which holds the axle in place (Figure 68). Remove the spacers Cc and holding washers. 11, Loosen the sprocket holding nut with the special open end wrench “Turn two hexagon head screws into the end of the axle and turn the tle with a bar. The wrench is used only to hold the nut. You do not have room inside the grarcase to ‘urn the wrench (Figure 69) 12, Remove the four outside axle hub mounting nuts (Figure 70) 13, Drive the axle with @ plastic or rubber mallet (Figure 71) or use 4 slide puller at the outside of the ‘machine, Remove the axle from the ‘machine (Figure 72), Fig. 70 Removing the Outside Hu Fig. 71. brivng Axle with Mater 14. Remove the sprocket holding nut and flat locking washer from the gearcase (Figure 73). 15. Remove the axle sprocket from the gparcase, Check whether the spacer sleeve has been removed from the ‘machine with the axle or fallen into ‘she gosrase AXLE BEARING AND SEAL REPLACEMENT Fg. 72 Removing Axle ram Machine Fig. 73 Remove Nut & Waser “To change an axle bearing oF sel, do this: 1. Remove the hub from the axle shaft by tapping the end of the axle fon a block of wood (Figure 74) 2. Remove the axle bearing from the fxle shaft with a bearing puller (Figure 78), 3, Install & new bearing and see! into the axle hub (Figure 76). The outer seal should be flush with the outer Saye et the habe Both weal Tee Fi. 78 Removing Hub trom Axle Fig. 75 Removing Bearing trom Axe must face inward, 4. Use @ hollow tube sightly larg eed Fe FE ‘than the axle shaft to drive the hub snd bearing assembly onto the shaft (Figure 77) oF uses hydraulic press with an adapter tube 5. Place soncersleve onto axle REINSTALLING AXLE To reinstall the axle, proceed as follows: 1. Reinstall the axle sprocket in the swarcase. Fig. 76 snsalng New Bearing & Seal Fig. 77 Driving Hub & Seating omo shat 2. M444, M500, M-600 LoadersFig. 78 Fig. 80 Fig. 81 Boting Hub to Frame Looutning she Intealato Chsin 2. Reinstall the axe in the machine. 13, Mount the flet locking washer and the holding nut on the axle. The threaded portion of the rear axle sprocket holding nut must be away from the sprocket NOTE: In most cases anew locking washer will be required. The inside diameters of the front axle and rear axle locking washers are different. 4. Bolt the outside hub tothe loader frame (Figure 78) Start the sprocket holding nut. 6, Mount the inside bearing (Figure 79) spacers end washer. 17. Turn the castle nut onto the end of the axle and tighten it until the bearings have & moderate preload (Figur 68) 8. Reinstall the cotter pin and dust cap on the inside end of the axle, Tighten the cop (igure 67). Check the condition of the “o” ring sea 8, Tighten the sprocket holding nut on the inside of the garcase by using the special open end wrench. The wrench is used only to hold the mut. You do not have room inside the gearcae to turn the wrench.qTheeed two hexegon head serews into the end of the axle and turn the axle with a bar 10, Lock the sprocket holding nut into position by bending the locking washer over ‘one of the flets of the nut and over a flat spot on the sprocket hub, Use a ber to start bending the washer then use a hammer (Figure 80) 11. Tighten all chain in the drive (See Drive Chain Adjustment) 12, Replace the gearcase cover and protective clutch caps 13, Replace the floor panels and reconnect the control pedal linkages. AXLE SPROCKET REPLACEMENT (25 Wr. rom) 28 br. (ra) ‘The rear axle shaft has short splines, It requires @ short spacer sieeve and « long sprocket anchoring nut. The front exle has longer splines. It requires along space sleeve and » short sprocket enchoring nut “The fina dive sprockets on the front and rear axles are identical. Early machine models use 8 42 tooth sprocket. Current machines use 41 tooth sprockets to atiminate the offset or half links in the final drive chains. A 42 tooth sprocket requires @ 7 pitch chain and a 41 tooth sprocket requires @ 76 pitch chin ‘The 41 and 42 tooth sprockets have different part numbers. Whenever replacing these rockets in the field be sure to count the number of teeth on the sprocket and replace it with the proper part. Using one 41 tooth and one 42 tooth sprocket on aside of the machine will cause chain and sprocket breakage. LOWER JACKSHAFT REMOVAL {Remove and Replace 55 te] To remove the lower jackshaft assembly from the Bobcat 1. alae the side ‘of the machine you will be working on and remove the wheels from that side 2. Remove the protective clutch caps and the garcase cove. 3. Drain the oll from the gearcase. 4. Remove the linkage from the hyéraulie contol pedals and remove the floor panels 5, Loosen and remove all the dive chains A. Loosen the clutch drive (outside clutch} chain and remove it from the machine B. Loosen the intermediate (inside clutch) chain (Figure 81). Disconnect the chain and remove it from the machine. Use a chain disassembly tool to remove the connector tink 26 ‘M444, M500, M600 LoadersG— Loosen the fins! drive chains. Loosen the outside holding bolts (Figure 65) ‘and the inside holding bolts (Figure 68). Remove the outside holding bolts from the mounting holes (Figute 82). This will make it posible to raise the final drive chains enough to disconnect them, Use a chain disassembly too! to remove the connector links (Figure 83). NOTE: Use 2 number 60 chain disassembly tool 6. Remove the reverse drive clutch (nearest the front of the machine). This makes re: ‘moval of the lower jackshatt posible. 7. Remove the inside holding bolts (jackshatt mounting bolts). NOTE: Turn the lower jackshaft sprocket so the large hole in the sprocket ie directly over the mounting bolt. Remove the bolt through the hole in the sprocket. Repeat this to remove the second bolt. 8 Invert the overcenter tank spreader to spread the gearcase panels enough so the assembly can be removed (Figure 84), 9. Grasp the assembly and remove it from the machine by pulling forward and up (Figure 84). LOWER JACKSHAFT REPAIR To install new bearings in the cluster sprocket (final drive chain sprocket) pro- ceed #8 follows 1. Remove the outside mounting plate by tapping witha hammer. 2. Remove the large sprocket from the cluster sprocket. 3. Press new needle bearings into the Fig. 84 Removing Loner Joona cluster sprocket. NOTE: Press the bearings in 20 the Fig. 82 Removing the Outede Bots Te ern eens THE stanies MST BC a tome near S SIDE OF TE SPROCKET ruea| Fig. 85 Presing Gearing into Soroat Imprinted numbers are to- ward the outside of the sprocket (Figure 85). Do rot push both bearings in {rom one side of the clus ter sprocket. If you try to press on the rounded edge fof ‘the bearing, you will fatten theend and damage the bearing Bearings should be indent ed 1/16" inside the hub. Fasten the large sprocket to the cluster sprocket. Use Loe-TH® (Fig: ‘re 86) and torque the connector serens to 55 ft. lbs. (Figure 87) Safety wire the connector screws (Figures 88 and 89), Fig. 88 Safety wire the Screws M444, M500, M600 LoadersFig. 00 Presing in New Mounting Pin naa Fig. 91 Insaling Indie Thrust Washer Fig. 92. lnstaling Outside Thrust Washoe Fig. 94 Reconneedng Final Drive Chane 5, If & naw mounting pin is required, press the old mounting pin from the inswe mounting plate and press @ new maunting pin into place (Figure 80) 6. Install he inside thrust washer (Figure 91). 7. Mount the sprocket assembly onto the mounting pin with the large sprocket toward the inside mounting bracket Install the outside thrust washors (Figure 92) 9, Install the outside mounting plate (Figure 93) LOWER JACKSHAFT REINSTALLATION To reinstall @ lower jackshattassombly, follow this procedure: 1. Carefully install the assembly into the georcase (Figure 84). Use an overcenter tank spreader to spread the sidewalls of the tank and make installation of the lower jackshatt possible. 2, Turn the lower jackshaft sprocket so the large hole in the sprocket is over one of the ‘mounting holes in the gearcase inner sdewal Insert the inside holding bolts {jackehatt mounting bolts) into thelr mounting holes through the large hole in the jackshaft sprocket. NOTE: On carly machines with coarse threaded bolts, replace with the new heat treated fine threaded bolts and lock nuts (Clark part number 6504934). 3, Reconnect the final drive chains. Use a gripping plier to press on the connector links (Figure 08). It will be imposible to force the connector link onto the pins with a single plier gripping action, ress, then release the plier and tighten the plier sip for another gripping ection. Repeat this until the link has been forced all the way into position NOTE: Use only a presson type connector link. There is not enough room between the chal connector fink. in the cluster sprocket ares for 2 cotter pin oF spring lip type Do not reuse a press-on connector ink 4, Install the outside holding bolts (jackshaft mounting bolts] (Figure 82). NOTE: Use heat treated fine threaded bolts and lock muts, 5, Install the front clutch assembly, 6. Install the intermediate chain (Figure 96). Use a length of bent wire to pull the chein around the ower jackshaftsorocket. NOTE: The intermediate (inside clutch) hain gost over the tightener, under the sprocket on the front ‘luteh, over the sprocket on the rear clutch and around the large sprocket on the lower jackshaft Fig. 95 Inealing ntermadine Chain 28 Maaa, M500, M600 Loaders10. ". Reconnect the intermediate chain with a gripping plier (Figure 96) Antal the clutch dive (ouside clutch) chain Tighten all the cheins in the deve (See Drive Chain Adjustment) Replace the gerease cover and protective clutch cps. Replace the floor panels and raconnect the control pedal linkages. DRIVE CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (On new machines of on machines which have had chain or sprocket replacement we rec ‘ommend that chain tension be checked every ten hours fo the frst §0 hours. Chain tension should be checked ery 60 hours thereafter, or more often if necessary. To check chain adjustment, do this 1 Place a block under the rear of the Bobest and raise the machine with the boom. {All four wheels must rte from the ground, ‘Shut aff the engine. Lock the directionel control levers in forward position ‘Tey to turn the whesls in both directions by hand. There should be no free play ‘The chains should be taut. Ifyou notice any free moverent, adjust the drive chains: ‘This operation raquiras that you remove the gearcase covers, which means thet the ubrioation and hydroutle ol reservoir, and the drive mechanism, will be open to the alr. DO THIS JOB IN A CLEAN AREA, away from dirt and blowing dus. Do not run the machine with the side pane! open. Remove the protective clutch caps and the gearcase cove. “Tighten the final drive chaine, taking these steps ‘A. Loosen the two outside lower jackshatt mounting bolts (Figure 97). B. Remove the linkage from the hydraulic control pedals and remove the floor C. Loosen the two inside lower jackshaft mounting bolts, oppesite the two outside urs (Figure 88) ©. Insert_@ ty bar in the Role provided in the large jackshaft sprocket end pry up until the final Grve chains are taut. It may be necessary to tap the face of the sprocket with a soft hammer while prying to assure proper alignment. “The jackshaft sprocket may shift 1/4" forward or backward in order to maié- tain the proper tension on both chains at the same time. Use a bar to hold the rear edge of the large sprocket away from the gearcase inner sidewall while prying. This will Keep the sprocket from interfering with the front final drive chain after the lower jackshaft mounting bolts are retightened (Figure 28), E, When the chains have the proper tension, tighten the inside front holding nut (Figure 100). (tis important thet this nut be tightened first. Next, tighten the ‘outside nuts (Figure 07). Tighten the inside rear nut. Tap the face of the large jackshatt sprocket to align. On early machines with coarse threaded bolts, re place with the new heat treated fine threaded bolts and lock nuts and tighten to 110 ft bs toraue Fig. 95 Reconnect interediate Chain Fig 87 Lorsning Outese Mounting Bais Fig. 88 Loosening inside Mounting Bots Fig. 99. Tightening Final Brive Ghee Fig. 100 Tightening imide Front Nut M444, M500, M600 LoadersF, Check the final drive chain tension. You should have about 1/4" detection on the chains using 40 tbs, of spring scale tension [Figure 101). If necessary, loosan or tighten the chain to get the desired 1/4” chain deflection. G. With the directional contrl lever in noviral postion, turn one of the wheel a it tle ata time, and check the chain tension by pulling up on the chain by hand. 1f 2 final drive chain does not have the same tension throughout a fll revolution, it indicates an out-of round. sprocket on either the lower jackshaft or the axle Replace any outofround sprockets with new ones, and recheck. Fig. 101 check Fina Orive Chan Tension 3, Tighten the intermediate finsie clutch chain, taking these steps: A. Loosen the ‘wo nuts on the top front idlar-sprocket chain tightener located inside the goarcase (Figure 102), 8, Insert « pry bar above the idler bracket and pry up on the ber until the chain is taut (Figure 103). Be careful to avoid damage to the upper lip of the gearcase opening C.Tighten the two nuts on the idler bracket securely. Tighten the small nut (1/2") te B5 ft. Ibs. torque and the large nut 9/16") to 110 ft. Ibs, torque hile holding the idler bracket to maintsin proper chain tesion D. Check the intermediate (inside clutch) chain tension. You should have Fig. 102 Loossning intermediate Cain about 1/4" deflection on the chain using 18 Ibs. of spring scale tension (Figure 108), If necessary, loosen oF tighten the chain to get the desirad 1/4" chain deflection, E. With the direetional control lever in neutral postion, turn one of the wheels 1 little at a time, and check the chain tension by pulling on the chsin by hand, If the intermesiate chain does not have the some tension throughout 4 full revolution, it indicates an out-of-round sprocket on the lower jckshatt on ‘either of the inside clutch plats. Replace any out-of-round sprockets with new ‘ones and recheck. 4, Tighten the elutch drive (outside lutch) chains, taking these steps: Fis. 103 Titeniog irvmdats Cals A. Loosen the two nuts onthe outside of the goarcase panel 8. Pull the idler sprocket forward until the chain has proper tension. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Overtightening will cause excessive chain noise . Tighten the two nuts to 30 ft, Ibs. torque while holding the idler sprocket forward (Figure 108). [After securing the idler sprocket, make sure the sprocket ‘on the tightener is not interfering with the sprockets fon the clutch or jackshaft. If the tightener must be ‘at forward this far to tighten the chain, remove one Fig. 104 check tntarmediate Chain Tension D. Cheek the clutch drive (out fide clutch ehain tension. You should have sbout 1/8" de- flection on the chain using 10 lbs. of spring seale tension (Figure 108), If necessary, loosen or tighten the chain to get the desired 1/4” chain deflection. Fig. 105 Tightening Clutch Drive Chain Fig. 106 Checking Clutch Chain Tension 5, After ll chains are secure, turn the 30. M444, M500, 9-600 Loaders10. wheels on each side of the mschine through # full revalution to eneck for interference fof any of the chains with the gearcase sidewall, other chains, or other sprockets necessary, readjust Replace the gearcase covers. Replace the protective clutch caps. Replace the floor panels and the hydreule control pedal linkages. Start the machine and let it run for several minutes while moving the directional control levers back and forth. Shut off the mechine and check for oll leaks sround ‘the gearcase cover and protective clutch caps, (With the chains properly adjusted and no apparent leaks, remove the blocks from under the Bobcat and lower it beck to ground level 34 M444, N-500, 1-600 LosersTROUBLESHOOTING THE DRIVE SYSTEM PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE Sudden increase in diretional contol lever travel in one direction. [A clutch thrust beating hes foiled Replace with © new thrust bearing Always turn around or replace the ‘rust races when a thrust besring placed. ‘The threads are stripped from the sctuating nut. Replace the actuating nut; also the setusting threed on the cluteh pin if necessary. Adjust the ctuteh pin for proper trvead contact between the new actuating nut and thread The splines on the directional control lever and linkage shaft are badly worn, causing the lever to jump the splines Replace the directional contro lever and lever linkage shaft. Be sure to install 8 screw in the new lever. Directional control lever side ply. The screws missing from the direct ona contra ever. The sis Vikage sat Replace the screwafter checking the condition of the splines. Feoiacs be ‘The directional control tinkege inside the tanks i interfering with the chains, Indicated by a growing nojse. The directional control lever linkage shaft is not tight in the directional ‘control eve. Tighten the sorew in the direcionsl ‘control lever. Replace the splined rating parts if the splines show ex- The smell sring washers are not in place on the actuating br. ‘The setuating ba warped 0 that inter eres with ha chang rsd gore wal. ————————— Remove the shoulder serew (socket ‘head) holding the actuating nut into ‘the actuating bar end insert washer behind the actuating nut flange. Be | 49 ‘aire the wacher does not slip off the shoulder of the screw and fat: ‘ten agpinst the beck of the clevis when assembling the unit. Examine the sctsting bar lounide she machine) A wall aroun of vaepane ay tot cause oreblams, Hower, warpage cee stalghen of relace te etwas = sth the chains or nse wal ofthe gnc ind the ence mati from the linkage boro rplce the ba The clutches will not engoge propery. Reasjon coches cn ob) mould be pres Into the hus nly fer enough 50 one bearing ie fh eth each end of the a The large Rex ut hong up on ie arco eponon the nat M444, 500, M600 LoadersPROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE ‘The directional control clutches will not remain engaged. The levers will return to neutral when released, ‘The actuating threads ond nuts ore Replace the actuating thresds and nuts if you want the directional control levers to remain engaged when placed in | 42 an engaged postion (forward oF re verse.) ‘The actuating nuts are excessively | Replace the actuating nuts, hardened, 2 ‘The clutches will not disengage prop- | Full thread contact has not been main- | Replace the unevenly worn actuating erly (Excessive force may be necessry | tained between the actuating threads | threads or actuating nuts. to disengage ther) and actuating nuts. The threads and 2 ruts are worn unevenly, causing sticking oF jamming. Koop the clutches properly adjusted. | 13 ‘Clutch Stippage The clutch pins are not adjusted prop- | Adjust the rear clutch pin to obtain erly. One actuating nut is bottoming | full thread contact when the steering ‘against the tank wall before the other | lever is 4” forward of center, Align ‘engages the clutch fully the front inside clutch plate with the | "9 fear inside clutch plate with lever in neural position. {sing oo much counterweight aduce te courtaweight to make Bring Tang wrong a Replace with corer oT Preneure eto tant aig fit | The tarned vas on the ich | Rene te bring and win ore || ure, plates may be rough or pitted, caus | place the hardened races. If one | 19 ing seizing of the bearing ‘rust bearing on @ clutch falls, re- place them both. ‘The operator may be using too much ver | Use only enough ver preiue to engage “Ghack the hardened races for piting and roughness. Trop counerwaihng Uae proper courtaweighing ‘The hardened race in the solfslign. | Tp the face of the selfaligning nut ing nut may not be free to align tre | each time it is removed to be sure bearings. the hardened race is free in the nut. | 14 (it may be necessary 10 use & press OF vise to loosen the race.) Praature clutch tinng ture or ex- | Nicks on one or both of the cluton | Replee the cut fee and lining. | 1 ‘ces. Improper clutch adjustment — The clutches are adjusted too tightly. Replace the clutch lining and adiust the clutchet for 3 to 4 inches of lever travel from neutral " One or mote of the clutch Wubr: cation tubelinee ie plugged Remove the tubelines and check for ‘obstvetions, ‘M444, M500, M-600 LoadersPROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE {Cuteh Hining breaks and falls out of the eluteh Thi clutch lining has been foreee onto the shoulder of the inside clutch plate, rocking the lining Whenever you replace 2 clutch lining be sure that it fits loosely on the shoulder of the inside clutch plate Do not force it onto the shoulder “ Excessive clutch dive chain wear “The upper jackshatt sprocket Is not in tine withthe outer elute sprockets. Align, with a straighedge, the upper jackshatt serocket with the outer cluteh sprockets. Use shim wad) 4 behind or in front of the sprocket as required, “ The chain is adjusted too. tightly. “Tighten only band tight (Oil leakage past the upper jeckshaft bearings. “The bearing is backward in the bear ing housing. The shaft may have turre inside the bearing, seoring the shat. Remove the jackshatt and check the shaft for scoring, Insert the bears in the housing so that the machined 5 ‘offset on the bearing hub is toward | 72 ‘the inside of the tank. Lock the lock Ing collar over the offs. ‘The seal in the bearing is leaking. | Replace the bearing a “The gisket is allowing leakage past the] Tighten the housing mounting bolts bearing housing Replace the gasket ‘The bearing fits the housing too tightly | Replace the housing with one which because of 2 too large housing dt | has a larger bore. a mensional tolerance. ‘The grense fitting on the variable | ‘The spring is striking the fitting wnen | Turn the sring so coll sets up next speed driven (spring loaded) sheave | it compresses, bresking it of to the new Fitting on the sheave side of | 22 isbreaking off repeatedly the fitting. Drive Belt Stipping ‘The belt is bottoming on the hub of | Instruct the operator to nudge the the drive sheave. lever forward slightly to move the belt slightly outward from the hub | 17 ‘whenever he places the variable speed Into tow speed positon “The spring loaded jackshatt sheave is | Tighten the three adjusting nuts even not adjusted propery. ly, one turn at a time, Restart the | 17 ‘machine and check for slippage “There i grease on the faces of the | Clean the grease from the faces of the sive or driven sheave halves. sheaves and relubricate. Do not over rose ‘The belt is worn too narrow to arip | Replace the bel, v ‘the shenves. M444, M500, M600 Loaders oOPROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE Drive Beit Breakage ‘The driven (spring toaded) sheave has | Move the driven sheave so correct ‘moved sideways, causing belt misalgn- | alignment of the beit is obtained. | ment. ‘The belt should run parallel to the ‘outer adge of the sheave. ‘The spring loaded sheave is adjusted 100 tightly ‘The movable haf of the driven sheave 1s not siding freely on the jackshaft, Back the nuts off the studs until the bolt wil stip when you start the engine. Stop the engine and tighten the nuts | 17 fone turn at @ time until the belt no longer sli. ‘The movable half of the sheave should be cleaned and redubricated. New | 17 reas seals may have to be installed ‘The moveble half of the driven sheave Is not sliding freely on the shaft due to The movable half of the sheave shouls be cleaned. A new great fitting should ‘the grease fitting not taking grease. | be installed and the sheave lubricated. | 17 Do not overgrease. “The three sliding studs and the ollie | Replace any excessively worn parts, bearings on the driven sheave are | including the sheave halves if neces | 17 sary. The engine has come loose in its ‘mountings, causing it to shift postion. ‘This causes sheave misalignment. Relocate the en » reworking the mounting holes if they have been en- larged through vibration. The variable speed drive and hydraulic pump must be realigned to the engine. The bore of the faad half of he ven sheers i worn, allowing the shewe to obo place the eave and jekahat, "Too high ing preware Decree wo spelen Chains are tight but there fz free play in the whools The sprocket enchering nuts oe loow. Tighten and lock the outs epic ‘Axle Sprocket Breskage (Cont) Using sprockets with the wrong num: ber of teeth When replacing sprockets, be sure they have the right number of teeth forthe | 26 chain being used, Chain breskege, caused by using the wrong type chain When replacing drive chains, use only chain rated the same as the original | 26 (special) chain Chain breakage, caused by using the ‘wrong type chain connector. Use only the same type chain con nectors a8 were removed. Do not re | 27 use press type chain connectors, CChain breakage, caused by chain inter ference Be sure you have sufficient chain clearance whenever you tighten the | 39 drive chains, M444, M-500, M-600 LoadersPROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE ‘Axle Sprocket Breskage Chain breakage, caused by outiofound | Be sure to check all sprockets for (Cont’s) sprocket. ‘outotoundness whenever you tight: | 39 fn the chains, “There is no spacer on the axle tohold | Be sure these spacers are reinstalled | 9 the sprocket in place. uring exle replacement. Encenive Ande Brosiaye Conding the bucket withthe front wheels | Loadoniy withall four wheds onthe round otf te gourd to prevent oxen losdon the rat weds {usualy occurs on back wheels.) rey Ting abate wih He wheal Tow down for oberon CChain breakage, caused by using the | When replacing drive chains, use only ‘wrong type chain. chain reted the same as the original | 26 (speci) chain caused by using the] Use only the same type chain con- ‘wrong type chain connector. nectors as were removed. Do not r= | 27 Use press type chain connectors ‘aia reaage, coed by Iterernce be | Ge ure you Bae ution chin cisrance twaen hae whenever you dahten the ive chan Trnproper course Uae proper countweihting ‘sing so We ts. educe weed when uring oid rez Final drive chain breskage. Operating with loose chains, ‘Adjust the final drive chsins to 1/4" deflection using 40 tbs. of springscale | 30 | toce ‘Operating with outotround sprockets, | Be sure to check all sprockets for out cf roundness whenever you tighten the | 39 chains. ‘Worn chains and sprockets. Replace, Using an axle sprocket withthe wrong | Be sure all axle sprockets have the umber of teeth on one axle. same number of teeth 7 Operating with tires of diferent dia. | Use the same air pressure in all tres. | 7 meter on a side of the machine. _—_—_ Rotate tires 7 Operating nth sli ype tres. Aeplce with prewar ‘neck chan condition Guy wdjon when Excesive drive chain wear or Loading the bucket with the front | Load only with all four wheels on the breakage. wheels off the ground, ground to prevent excess load on the rear final drive chai, Chains oe too loose ‘Tiahten to proper tension 20 Chains se too tight Loosen to proper tension. 20 (Cont'd) Using wrong type chain. Use only recommended chain 36. 1444, 500, M600 LoadersPROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE CORRECTION PAGE Exceasve drive chain wear (Cont) Interference between chains (Check for interference whenever tight: ening the drive chains 30 Using too much counterweight Reduce counterweight Chain interference ‘The lower jackshatt sprocket Is mis: ‘aligned, causing the intermediate chain 10 interfere withthe final drive chain, Whenever the final drive che ing tightened, the rear of the large sprocket should be held away from the rarcase sidewall with a bor. After tightening the chain, the drive shoule be turned through a full revolution to check for chain interference. are be 30 ‘The directional control linkage is inter- fering with the intermediate chain CCheck for interference and correct as necessary. ‘Axle sprocket holding nuts are loose. Tighten and lock thom. 5 Loud growing noise in the drive sys (Machine is standing still with the ‘engine running) (Machine is in motion) The clutch drive chain is too tight. Loosun, and retighten only hand tight 30 Chains are misaligned and interfering with other chains or sprockets Retighten all the drive chains, then tum the drive through a full evolu tion to check for interference, ‘The upper jcksheft beerings have tailed Replace the bearings, locking the new bearings to the shaft with the offset locking collars. ‘The intermediate chain is t00 tight. Loosen, then tighten to proper tension, ‘The intermediate chain is to0 loose, causing the inside clutch sprocket (re: verse dive clutch) to slip on the chain, Tighten to proper tension. 30 “The lower jackshaft sprocket is loose, causing growling in one direction of sravel tighten all the drive chains, then rotste the drive through @ full re volution to check for interference 20 ‘The gearcase cover is difficult to in- sal ‘The self-eligning (lorge hex) nuts are rot turned with a fat on top. Turn the seskaligning nuts to obtain a flat on top. The holding bar on the ‘gearcase cover must est on these flat The cluteh drive chain is too tight, ‘awwing the clutch pins together Loosen the chain and rotighten only hand tight. ‘The intermediate chain is too tight. Loosen and retighten to proper ten: Oil leakage past the clutch pin caps. “The cap is loose. Tighten, ‘The quad ring seals are not properly seated In their grooves in the caps. ‘The quad ring seals are cracked or broken Replace the quad ring seals and place ‘them carefully in their grooves in the caps. Spread a litle oll around the ‘quad ring seal before replacing the ‘Meta, M00, M-600 Loaders