History of Costumes

Victorian and Edwardian Era

 Victorian era Edwardian era
• 1837 - 1901, named after Queen • 1901 - 1910, named after King
Victoria Edward
• Strict moral values, social • Relaxed and progressive society,
hierarchies, rapid industrialisation changing gender roles, rising
• Fashion was known for its middle class.
modesty, conservatism, elaborate • Simpler, fluid silhouettes; focus on
garments; corsets, structured elegance, luxury, refined
undergarments. aesthetics. Rise of couturiers and
the Art Nouveau movement.
 Victorian era
• Queen Victoria’s personal style : modest, simple,
practical
• Conservative high neck dresses with long sleeves.
• Black for mourning
• Covering the body was seen as a reflection of moral
character.
• High necklines, long sleeves, floor length skirts
• Corsets for proper figure
• Early victorian era - Bell shaped silhouette with wide
skirts supported by layers of petticoats and
crinolines.
• Fabrics : Silk, satin, wool, velvet often embellished
with lace, ribbons and trimmings.
• Intricate embellishments : Intricate embroidery-
floral motifs, scrollwork, intricate patterns - oftern
hand embroidered using silk, metallic threads and
beads ; beading and gemstones were sewn onto
dresses, bodices and accessories to add sparkle
and glamour; silk ribbons, velvet trims and braids
applied on cuffs, collars, hems, waistbands as
decorative elements and to add texture; pleating
and ruching to add dimension and volume - box
pleats, gathers in skirts, bodices, sleeves.
 Womens costumes
• Emphasis on modesty, propriety and
refinement.
• High waistline, narrow shoulders and full skirts.
• Fitted bodice, bell shaped skirt supported by
multiple layers of petticoats or crinolines.
• Floor length skirts
• High neckline with collars that reached the chin.
• Long and fitted sleeves, bishop sleeves with
fullness gathered at the wrists
• Outerwear : Coats, capes and shawls made of
wool or velvet.
 Mens costumes
• Suits made of wool or tweed for
durability and warmth.
• Mens suits consisted of coat,
waistcoat and trousers.
• Coats were single breasted and
had a fitted waist.
• Waist coats wereoften high
necked and had a longer length.
• Trousers were slim fitting and
reached just above the ankles.
• Men wore high collared shirts with
cravats or neckties.
• Cravats were tied in intricate
styles, creating elaborate and
decorative knots.
 Accessories
• Gloves : Women’s gloves were made of kid leather and
reached above the elbow; men wore shorter gloves
made of leather or fabric.
• Hats : Men wore top hats or bowler hats as a part of
everyday attire, made of felt.
• Parasols and umbrellas : Women carried parasols to
shield themselves from the sun while umbrellas were
used for protection against rain.
• Jewelry : Women wore delicate and dainty jewelry like
necklaces, earrings, brooches and bracelets often
featuring pearls, cameos or gemstones. Men’s jewelry
was more minimalistic, consisting of cufflinks, tie pins
and signet rings.
 Early Victorian Mid Victorian
• Womenswear : natural waistline, relatively • Silhouettes were more fuller, bell shaped
slim skirts, shorter sleeves. skirts supported by multiple layers of
• Emphasis on simplicity and elegance. petticoats or crinolines.
• Rich and luxurious fabrics like silk, satin, • Waistlines moved higher, just below the bust,
velvet for both men and women. creating an elongated appearance.
• colors were vibrant and bold including • Wider and larger skirts emphasizing a
jewel tones and deep shades. feminine and voluminious shape.
• Womens dresses had high necklines often • Softer color palette, pastel hues, delicate and
with collars reaching the chin, long feminine aesthetic.
sleeves. • Floral prints, stripes and plaids became
• Natural waistlines accentuated by wide fashionable.
belts or sashes. • Neckline continued to be high, sleeves
• Slim skirts, ankle length. became wider and more voluminous.
• Men’s suits consisted of coat, waistcoat • The bodices featured more intricate details
and trousers. Coats had fitted waist and like pleats, tucks and ruching.
narrow shoulders. • Mens suits retained their basic structure with
• Slim fitted trousers. some modifications. Coats had broader
• Women’s accessories - gloves, shawls, shoulders and a slightly looser fit.
bonnets and parasols. • Waistcoats became longer and had a higher
• Men wore top hats, gloves and carried neckline.
walking canes. • Bowler hat became popular.
• Bonnet was a staple accessory for women
often adorned with ribbons, flowers and
feathers. Gloves, lace collars, and cuffs were
common. Men continued to wear top hats
and cravats were tied in elaborate styles.
 Mid Victorian (1860s - 1880s)
• Crinoline - Cage like structure made of hoops or crinoline.
The structure was made of steel or whalebone. It was
used to hold out a woman’s skirt and create the illusion of
a smaller waist.
• Bustle - Padded structure or framework worn at the back
of the waist, which created a protruding shape behind the
hips. Front of the skirt remained flat, volume was
concentrated on the back. Bustle gave an illusion of a
rounder posterior, emphasizing the curves of the hips.
• Day dresses were made from lightweight fabrics like
cotton, linen or wool. Silhouettes of day dresses were
similar to that of evening gowns with fitted bodice and a
high waistline. Skirts were generally less voluminous and
more practical for daytime activities.
• Day dresses featured elegant details like ruffles, pleats
and lace trims. Collars and cuffs were accentuated with
lace or delicate embroidery.
• Accessories for day dresses : bonnets, gloves, parasols.
• Around the lates 1870s to 1880s the bustle reached its
peak and eventually diminished. Silhouettes became more
slim and elongated. Waistline dropped to its natural
position, skirts became narrower and less bulky.
Influence of French Fashion in Mid Victorian
period (1860s - 1880s)
• French fashion played an important role in
shaping trends and styles.
• Paris was regarded as the fashion capital of the
world with renowned fashion houses, couturiers
and designers who dictated styles across
Europe and beyond.
• Prominent fashion houses such as Worth,
Doucette and Laferrière gained international
recognition.
• Frnch couturiers introduced advancements
such as the use of sewing machines, intricate
draping and pattern making techniques.
• French fashion used luxurious and exquisite
fabrics especially french lace.
• French fashion had a significant impact on
evolving silhouettes, they emphasised
elegance, feminity and individuality.
• French fashion magazines like La Mode
Illustrée and Le Petit Courrier de Dames played
a crucial role in taking fashion to a larger
audience.
• Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napolean III
played a significant role in promoting french
fashion. la mode illustrée 1888
Empress Eugénie
 Gibson Girl
• Gibson girl style popularised by illustrations of artist Charles Dana Gibson, epitomized the
idealized image of the fashionable, independent and active woman of the time.
• Athletic, slender figure, slight bustle at the back, curvaceous yet refined silhouette.
• Hourglass shape achieved by corsetry.
• Tailored, well- fitted garments that exuded sophistication and elegance.
 Late Victorian

• Skirts became narrower and more streamlined with a flatter front and slight
fullness at the back.
• Natural waistline, corsets were more relaxed fits.
• Tailored suits for women - more functional and practical - matching jacket and
skirt made from wool or tweed.
• Structured jackets, narrow skirts, ankle length
• Suits were worn for outdoor activities, travel, day wear
• Fabrics : Silk, velvet, wool, cotton, brocades, jacquards, damasks.
• Color Palette : Ranged from soft pastels to rich jewel tones. Earthy hues like
browns and greens, black for mourning.
• Embellishments : lace, ribbons, bows, embroidery, ruffles, pleats, flounces.
• Accessories : Women - hats adorned with feathers, flowers and veils. Gloves,
fans, parasols.
• Jewellery : Pearls, diamonds, colored gemstones, chokers, brooches,
bracelets, hair ornaments.
• Charles Frederick Worth - famous English designer
• Black used for mourning
• Shoes : Early - narrow and heelless, mid ( 1850s-60s) - slightly broader, low
heel, made of leather or cloth, ankle length laced or buttoned boots; late
(1870s to the 20th century) - higher heels, toes more pointed, low-cut pumps
for evenings.
Charles Frederick Worth dress
 Edwardian Era
(1901 - 1909)
• Sophisticated and refined styles of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra
influenced the preferences and choices of the upper class.
• King Edward was a fashion forward monarch who favoured bespoke tailoring
and luxurious fabrics. He popularised Norfolk jacket, a loose fitting tweed
jacket with box pleats which became a fashionable choice for outdoor
activities.
• Queen Alexandra introduced. sense of grace and feminity to the royal court.
Her preference for soft, delicate colours and luxurious fabrics influenced the
choice of materials and color palettes in women’s clothing.She popularised the
high, lace trimmed collar known as the Alexandra collar.
• S- shaped silhouette and the Pigeon breast look : Forward thrusting bosom
accentuated by a high, rigid and boned bodice. The waist was tightly corseted,
creating a defined and narrow waistline. The hips were emphasized, creating a
gentle curve, and the backside was pushed backward, giving a slight bustle
effect. This new silhouette was achieved by the use of corsetry and padding
which reshaped the natural contours of the body. The S- shape silhouette
aimed to create a more elongated and elegant appearance emphasizing an
upright posture and a graceful walk.
King Edward and Empress Empress Alexandra
Alexandra ( Alexandra collar)

Edwardian trousers Empress Alexandra Pigeon breast/S-shaped silhouette

( Alexandra collar)
 Rich embroidery and Intricate embroidery

• Fabrics : Sumptuous fabrics like silk, satin, velvet and brocade. Lace either as
trimmings or entire sections of garments.
• Embroidery : Intricate and elaborate embroidery often featuring floral motifs
were applied to bodices, sleeves and hems of dresses adding a decorative
and luxurious element. Embroidery was often done with silk threads, pearls
and sequins showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail.
 Late Edwardian Period (1909 - 1910)

• Titanic era : 1910 to 1914 - Fashion trends popularised during the time of the
RMS Titanic’s maiden voyage in 1912.
• High waistlines - Just below the bust
• Columnar silhouettes with slim straight lines that accentuated a long slender
figure. Corsetry became less constrictive, allowing a more relaxed and natural
shape.
• Rise of Art Nouveau characterised by organic, flowing lines and nature inspired
motifs. Intricate floral patterns, sinuous curves and delicate drapery. Garments
were adorned with embroidery, lace and appliques that reflected the fluid and
artistic aesthetic of the movement.
• Fabrics : Lightweight chiffon, tulle and silk - for soft and ethereal draping.
• Colors : Lighter and pastel shades like pale pink, blues, lavenders and creams.
Soft and delicate hues reflecting a more romantic and feminine aesthetic.
• Accessories : Hats became smaller and less elaborate, wide- brimmed hats
with decorative trimmings such as ribbons and feathers.
• Long gloves made of silk, compact handbags.
Similarities between Victorian and Edwardian Royal Costumes

• Both Vivtorian and Edwardian Royal costumes placed a strong emphasis on

elegance, refinement and sophistication. The garments were designed to showcase
the wealth, status, and taste of the wearer.
• Use of luxurious fabrics - silk, satin, velvet and brocade
• Attention to detail : Intricate details, lace, embroidery, beading, ribbons.
• Corsetry - Both eras employed corsets to shape the female figure.
Differences between Victorian and Edwardian Royal Costumes
Victorian Edwardian
• Silhouettes were voluminous and wide • Streamlined silhouettes with higher
because of crinolines and bustles. waistlines and a slender columnar
shape.
• High, modest necklines • Lower necklines, V-neck, square neck
• Puff or leg-of-mutton sleeves • Fitted and narrow sleeves
emphasizing wider upper arm.
• Elaborate and large headpieces • Smaller and more refined hats
including bonnets and tiaras.
• Heavy embellishments such as ornate • Subtle and delicate embellishments,
beading, lace and embroidery covering refined detailing, inteicate lacework.
the entire garment.
• Wide range of colors including deep • Lighter and softer color palette, pastels,
jewel tones and rich hues. delicate shades.
• Had some influence of French fashion. • More dominant French fashion influence.
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