International Journal of Home Science 2021; 7(1): 242-243
ISSN: 2395-7476
IJHS 2021; 7(1): 242-243
© 2021 IJHS
www.homesciencejournal.com
An attempt to review the Sujuni embroidery of Bihar
Received: 19-12-2020
Accepted: 21-01-2021
Akanksha Pareek
Dr. Poonam Muktawat
Department of Textile Design, Abstract
National Institute of Fashion Each of the region in India is popular for distinctive cultural essence. Many crafts like embroidery,
Technology, Jodhpur, weaving, printing, painting etc. are performed to satisfy their household need and unique social-cultural
Rajasthan, India
desire. Bihar state in India is centre for many crafts along with its religious significance. Embroidery is
one of them. This study is an attempt to review and understand the traditional craft practise in Bihar.
Keywords: craft, Sujuni, traditional embroidery, women expressions
1. Introduction
Sujuni is an art of embroidery from Bihar state of India, which is similar to the world famous
“Kantha” from neighbouring state Bengal of India. The term “Sujuni” is referred for straight
running stitch. Sujuni is the source of livelihood of many women. It has a universal appeal to
cater wider market. Embroidery is beautifully embellish with the help of needle and thread.
Sujuni is an implicit part of the women lives and is inter-connected with social culture realities
of their lives. The objective of the study is review the Sujuni embroidery of Bihar to record the
contemporary approach of the craft.
2. About the Craft
The craft is practised mainly in Muzaffarpur district, Madhubani district, Darbhanga district,
Patna district in Bihar state of India.
Corresponding Author:
Dr. Poonam Muktawat
Department of Textile Design,
National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Jodhpur,
Rajasthan, India Fig 1: Map of India and Bihar, indicating main clusters of Sujuni Embroidery in Bihar State of India
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International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com
These special quilts were developed in “Bhusara” village of Bag), Ketri ( A baby wrap) etc.
Muzaffarpur district of Bihar state. This village is located Purpose of the Sujunis were for the fulfilling the requirement
about 100 km from the centre of Mithila painting. of domestic items like bedcovers, cushions, canopies, floor
Sujuni is considered as utility item which does not have any spread, blouses, children’s cloth especially caps of newly born
religious and ritualistic value like Madhubani painting of babies.
Bihar state. Madhubani get exposed and received identity but These days many contemporary products like jacket, scarves,
Sujuni remain unexposed. stoles, dress materials, cushion covers, bags, wall hangings
are developed by the women artisan to cater the need of
3. Theme and Patterns modern market.
Women artisan of Sujuni transfer their worldly quilts into a
testament of their daily life. Motifs of Sujuni are bold in 6. Current status
nature. Sujuni embroidery is comprises of narrative elements. Many agencies involved and motivated women artisans for
Women express their feelings, experiences and realities product diversification. Due to their constant efforts, Sujuni is
through this artform. Many themes like domestic violence, making their place in international market like other
female infanticide, effect of gambling and alcoholism, gender neighbouring craft of Kantha and Madhubani.
inequality, evil of dowry, education of girls, lessons in health
care, AIDS awareness etc. are depicted to indicate the status 7. Future Scope of Study
of women in the men’s world. Traditional themes, current changes, involvement of designers
Usually, one senior women artisan narrates the entire story. & NGOs may also be included in future study.
The one story are than depicted with number of scenes. Each
scene of the story convey the day to day life of the women in 8. References
society. Some scenes like A fish swims over the surface along 1. Ranjan, Aditi & Ranjan, MP, Handmade in India, Mapin
with a snake, A rider gallops away on a horse, Mahouts on Publishing, Ahmedabad, 2007, 186.
elephant amble into the forest, The grand marriage procession 2. Shrikant, Usha, Ethnic Indian Embroidery-II, B.N. Sales
of Rama and Sita complete with palanquins carrying the Co, Jaipur, 2015, 36-38.
bride, an old women on a pilgrimage. Religious mantras/text 3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sujini_embroidery_work_o
and God- Goddesses are avoided in Sujuni. Animal motifs f_Bihar. 5th May 2021.
like fish, elephant, mythical bird; where two parrots with one 4. https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/sujani-
head signify harmony between men and women. Geometrical embroidery/ 5th May 2021.
patterns like hashiya (Line Patterns), phul-patti (Graphic 5. https://www.directcreate.com/craft/sujuni-embroidery 5th
florals), chaupad (checker game) etc. are also used in the May 2021.
Craft.
4. Stitches and Construction
The designs are freely drawn on the fabric which is followed
by the embroidery stitches. In the Sujuni embroidery, old saris
(women drapes) and dhotis (man drapes) are cut into smaller
pieces to transfer into the layers. These layers are than
converted into the quilts. Traditionally Sujuni was
embroidered on layered cotton. For the layered cloth, old and
sometimes frayed, saris are folded into layer and quilted with
a needle and thread. This cloth of the old sari gives silk like
smooth and soft feel, due to the constant washing of the saris.
A group of women do the needle work on an article/pieces.
Borders are made out of old fabric selvage. These selvages
are stitched to convert into the borders. Background of the
fabric and motifs are filled with the running stitches. These
running stitches move into the vertical and horizontal
directions, instead of spiral, circular, curvilinear, whorls of “
Kantha” of Bengal. Herringbone stitch and chain stitch is
used to outline the motifs in dark colour. Artisan combined
fabric layer by giving tiny running stitches. The number of
stitches are recorded from 105 to 210 in per square inches,
thus Sujuni is extremely labour intensive and time taking
craft. Dark colours especially indigo and black is used for the
outline of the motifs.
5. Products
Sujunis were used for the various occasions like marriages,
childbirth etc. in form of gifts. These layered clothes were
also used to the wrap the household items like musical
instruments, religious book, religious items etc. For the
marriages, Sujunis were used to make dowry items includes
Rumal (Handkerchief), Table Cloth, Takias (Pillow Cover),
Jajuns (Quilt), Chadars (Bed Sheets), Chanda Jodi (Money
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