2022 Proceedings Denver, Colorado
Exploring Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting for Transformable Garment Design Process
Boowon Kim and Young-A Lee, Auburn University, USA
Keywords: Zero-waste pattern cutting, transformable garment, design process, sustainability
Introduction. Textile waste management is a crucial factor that needs to be considered in
garment production. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (2018), textile
waste takes up nearly 6% of a landfill, and it is constantly increasing. Zero-waste pattern cutting
(ZWPC) eliminates 15-20% of pre-consumer textile waste in the garment design process by
using the entire width and predetermined length of fabrics (Rissanen, 2013; Townsend & Mills,
2013). Despite the benefit of ZWPC to reduce the waste, only a few companies attempted ZWPC
in their design collection, and it happened to be one-off production (McQuillan, 2019). Thus, a
further probe on ZWPC practices is needed to promote its mass production and reduce pre-
consumer textile waste.
McQuillan et al. (2018) introduced user-modifiable zero-waste fashion practices
involving a transformation in the garment that can be made and modified by users with no fabric
waste. User involvements expand the emotional connection between a garment and a wearer,
extending the garment’s functional life (McQuillan et al., 2018). Transformable garments also
contain do-it-yourself and multi-life design stimulating consumers’ emotional attachment to their
garments (Koo et al., 2014). Both transformable and user-modifiable garments bring
sustainability by extending the garment lifecycle because they increase garment usability in
actual numbers and years of being worn. While previous studies explored ZWPC design that
involves transformation, to our knowledge, it is rare, and the research is still ongoing. Thus, the
purpose of this study was to explore ZWPC within the transformable garment design process
using a case of simple zero-waste garment pattern making. The specific objectives of this
exploratory design research were: (a) to examine ZWPC methodologies in the literature, (b) to
explore creating a transformable ZWPC design, and (c) to analyze transformable ZWPC garment
design process.
Approach. This case study has taken practice-based design research to explore ZWPC
practices for transformable garment design. Previous studies suggest that ZWPC methodologies
involve tessellation, jigsaw, embedded jigsaw, multiple cloths, and minimal cut (Carrico & Kim,
2014; McQuillan, 2011). Tessellation refers to putting one identical pattern fitted and repeated
all together without any gaps (Carrico & Kim, 2014). A mathematical approach is necessary to
shape tessellation patterns since every piece of geometric shape needs to be fit in a fixed fabric
shape and width (McQuillan, 2011). In contrast to the tessellation, jigsaw methodology allows
shaping a different form of pattern pieces using traditional jigsaw organization to put pattern
pieces on the fabric. All edges of patterns are shared and interlocked altogether, allowing no
negative space (Carrico & Kim, 2014). In this study, we employed tessellation and jigsaw
methodologies in the initial research stage to understand current ZWPC methodologies and
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2022 Proceedings Denver, Colorado
initiate a new transformable design. The final transformable ZWPC design in this case study
used 100% organic cotton as the main fabric and recycled dryer sheets for facing.
ZWPC Design Process with Findings. The process of transformable ZWPC design
involved pattern development, prototype production, and analysis stages (see Figure 1).
Designers must think creatively and reverse the traditional pattern making process because
ZWPC practices involve restrictions in fabric use; fabric controls the process, and the final
design is neither preconceived nor planned. In the pattern development stage, we chose a square
to follow tessellation methodology because it gives a more straightforward calculation since it
has a similar shape to a fabric. A calculation was required to trace the existing methodology. The
measurement of square units was determined by the fabric width because the squares had to be
equally fitted in width. The fabric used in this study was 60” wide, allowing 10 of six-by-six
inches squares in a row. A unit of
Pattern Development Final Pattern
squares was printed on fabric via
iron heat transfer to indicate how
Pattern tessellation was developed in this
Develop- pattern (see Figure 1). Then,
ment Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 jigsaw methodology was utilized
by following an outline of
Prototype tessellated squares. Matching
Product- Analysis seams were crucial to fit every
ion edge of shapes, and calculation
was employed in this process.
Following these methodologies
identified the rectangular and H-
Figure 1. ZWPC for Transformable Garment Design Process shaped patterns to use in this
study.
The prototype garment was produced with muslin in the next stage of the design process.
The garment was first placed on a dress form, and seams were ripped and draped in various
angles to seek garment transformability. The analysis stage involves the evaluation of fit and
garment transformability suggesting a potential adjustment of the pattern, which was modified
accordingly. This ZWPC design process is nonlinear; the entire process was repeated until final
patterns and designs were settled. The final pattern involved one H-shaped and nine rectangular
patterns, including four facings and pockets, respectively. The process has established a new
transformable ZWPC garment with three design options for use (see Figure 1). The garment can
be worn as a jacket and held as a bag in two styles. Two invisible zippers were sewn to seams in
the square and the H-shaped patterns. A yard of fabric was used, generating three designs that are
transformable anytime based on users’ needs. This whole production generated a zero-waste of
fabric, demonstrating a sustainable pattern making process.
Conclusion. This case study illustrated a sustainable pattern making process by exploring
to create a transformable ZWPC garment. The transformable ZWPC design extends a garment’s
lifecycle by encouraging consumers’ emotional attachment to a garment. Moreover, the product
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in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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should be intended to maximize time efficiency to achieve sustainability in design (Anastas &
Zimmerman, 2003). During garment production, a simple pattern (e.g., rectangular and H-
shaped) would bring time saving in fabric cutting compared to traditional patterns where various
angles and curves exist. Thus, a transformable ZWPC garment fosters to implement
sustainability practices in the fashion industry through (a) avoiding pre-consumer textile waste,
(b) achieving transformability in design to extend a garment lifecycle, and at the same time, (c)
showing an aesthetically pleasing design.
This exploratory design research contributes to current literature where a limited study
has been explored regarding transformable ZWPC garments. The design process illustrated in
this study provides insights for design researchers and industry professionals who are willing to
incorporate ZWPC in their design practices. Future research may explore this practice using
common fabric widths (e.g., 54” and 72”). Besides, additional fabric usages rather than a yard
will bring a room to create garments with an entire top and bottom look. Furthermore, this
practice may be integrated with design technology (e.g., laser-cutting) to precisely cut fabric and
enhance time efficiency in garment production. Transformable ZWPC practice has a great
implication to be explored further, bringing a sustainable future to reduce textile waste.
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© 2022 The author(s). Published under a Creative Commons Attribution License
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction
in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
ITAA Proceedings, #79 – https://itaaonline.org
2022 Proceedings Denver, Colorado
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in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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