JAWA/CZ Electronic Ignition System Guide
JAWA/CZ Electronic Ignition System Guide
• assembly instructions
• wiring diagram
documentation • parts in the pack (foto)
• information on driving without battery
Designated use
This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator &
ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine
IMPORTANT: characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system
is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in
engine output. It does however significantly enhance
roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better
function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging
stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not
tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission
of gaseous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of
pollutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If
used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe
the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid
for Germany, for other countries, please check locally against your
road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in
competition events. If used other than the designated way,
warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not
obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal
roadworthiness.
Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic
devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting etc)and may
cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic
tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our
information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety
switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might
be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition
that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does
not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand.
Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool for
the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the
same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn,
flasher unit etc.
Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to
pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of
other tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
Notes on wiring:
Experience shows that in the course of time nearly every motorcycle undergoes changes to its
wiring. As a result, wire colours and wires themselves on your bike might differ to those we
describe. In case of doubt, please consult the original wiring diagrams for MZ (e.g. on
www.ostmotorrad.de).
Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle for the time of work. For driving
without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery.
Disconnect all cables from your old generator, regulator, regulating relay and the
ignition coils and remove those parts. You may pull your old rotor from the crankshaft
by means of a puller screw M8x90.
Check whether the neutral gear wire had been running through the pieces of harness you
are going to remove. If so, if will get removed and you will have to install a new one.
Check that the base plate for the pickup sits in its middle position. This position is highlighted
by a marking. Normally that will do for timing. Should you need a different timing position,
loosen the holderscrew of the plate and shift it accordingly. A shift clockwise will bring less
advance, a shift anticlockwise more advance. Typically that should be 2.7mm before top dead
center (BTDC)
Modify the existing wiring of your JAWA 638-640 as follows. This is important. If do you not
do this the new regulator will be damaged and the system might not start!
• red to red
• yellow to yellow
• white to white
Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper
clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
* Connecting VAPE alternator to lighting circuit (via regulator):
* Regulator type 1: with standard DC regulator (95 22 699 06), use the wiring diagram 72xk12:
The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug
with 6 positions, of which one is not used. A
female plug cover fitting to this plug is
* delivered. Into this female plug you have to
insert the following wires (which have terminals
that snap into the plug):
Regulator type 2: with DC regulator with built in smooting condenser (73 00 799 50), use
*
additional the wiring diagram reg_102:
Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side
with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each
exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding
resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are
good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).
Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug
and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only
one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a
coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid
fireworks around it to the chassis.
Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-
check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery
and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).
*
Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage.
As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter.
The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result
*
is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.
Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may,
if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe
distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need
# to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material
and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at
standstill and ignition off.
Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not
# contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the
cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.
After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get
# loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws
only loosely.
Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values,
or what is worse apply changes to it.
Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much
anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition
coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there.
You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also
#
your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be
the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor
will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly,
first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some
cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground
connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and
engine block.
In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material
to us for checking
The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts
comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes
it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000
# Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it
not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not
by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery
based ignitions).
Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during
tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely
# earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open
exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.
Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts
containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be
# taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the
soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.
Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct
polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will
# destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be
colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in
our instructions.
When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct
# blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the
stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm
ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal
resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or
# spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too.
Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase
spark.
# It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become
# loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see
assembly instruction)!
Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery
# (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a
disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation
process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully
# installed the system.
Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!