DFR Bulletin No.

15
ISBN No. : 978-81-925693-6-6

Lawn Management

A. K. Tiwari
K. P. Singh
Shephalika Amrapali
Girish K. S.

ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

College of Agriculture Campus, Shivajinagar,
Pune - 411 005 (Maharashtra)
Citation
Tiwari, A.K., K.P. Singh, Shephalika Amrapali and Girish, K.S. (2015). Lawn Management. DFR Extension
Bulletin No. 15. ICAR - Directorate of Floricultural Research, College of Agriculture campus, Shivaginagar,
Pune - 411 005 (Maharashtra), India.

Published by
Dr. K. P. Singh
Director (Acting)
ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research
College of Agriculture Campus, Shivajinagar
Pune- 411005 (Maharashtra), India
Telephone : 020-20252002, 25537025
E-Mail : directordfr@gmail.com, director.dfr@icar.nic.in

© 2015, ICAR-DFR, Pune

Techical Bulletin No. : 15
ISBN : 978-81-925693-6-6

Compiled and Edited by

Dr. AK Tiwari, Senior Scientist, Dr. KP Singh, Director (Acting), Shephalika, Amrapali, Scientist (Economic
Botany) and Girish K. S., Scientist (Agricultural Entomology).
ICAR- Directorate of Floricultural Research, College of Agriculture Campus, Shivajinagar, Pune-411005

Acknowledgements
The Directorate acknowledges the contribution of all the scientific/technical/supporting staff of the AICRP
(Floriculture) centers for the execution of experiments and compilation of data for the Annual Report. We
also acknowledge the help received from all the Scientific and Administrative staff of ICAR-Directorate
of Floricultural Research Pune, in successfully bringing out the compiled

Published
June, 2015

Printed at
Flamingo Business Systems,
19 Laxminagar Commercial Complex-I, Shahu College Road, Pune-411009,
Telephone: 020-24214636, 09049400137.
E.mail:flamingo.b.s@gmail.com, srgupta.tej@gmail.com
 Content

Foreward v

Preface vii

1. Introduction 1

2. Types of Lawn Grasses 3

3. Raising Lawn Grasses 6

4. Insect Pest Management in Lawn 19

5. Lawn Management Calendar 22

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ICAR- DIRECTORATE OF FLORICULTURAL RESEARCH
College of Agriculture Campus, Shivajinagar,
Pune - 411 009, Maharashtra, India
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Dr. K. P. Singh
Director (Acting) FOREWORD
Horticulture including Floriculture is growing every year at a galloping speed
and the sector has now created enough opportunities for economic growth of India
by way of export and domestic turnover. Considering its growth potential in future
is now termed as "Golden Revolution". Flowers have always held an aesthetic and
mystical significance. Ornamental Horticulture is a branch of Horticulture which
deals with commercial growing of flowers ornamental plants and beautification of
surroundings. This subject assumes great importance in improving total
environment and checks visual pollution by way of beautification. The flowers have
been eulogised by poets and artists for generations not merely for their ornamental
properties but for their versatile curative properties.

A green and beautiful lawn can help improve your home’s curb appeal. Unfortunately, a lot of
homeowners tend to ignore the importance of properly maintaining their lawns. Maintenance it is not just
about watering and mowing; lawn care is also about choosing the right tools, maintaining your equipment,
using eco-friendly landscaping materials, improving your home’s energy efficiency, and more. Turf grass
is the key to a beautiful tomorrow. It has been the basis for a green India. Turf is considered an anti pollutant
unapproached by any artificial means. A thick green lawn prevents soil erosion, and subsequent stream
pollution, helps control heat pollution and reduces noise pollution. More important is the fact that it
replenishes the oxygen supply in the air we breathe. An average lawn can replenish the air with enough
oxygen for eight people. Not only that turf absorbs and detoxifies sulfur dioxide, a critical air pollutant
associated with the burning of fossil fuels.

All plants have the same basic requirements. They need a supply of water, a fairly continuous source
of nutrients, a certain quantity of light, and proper temperature. Plants make their own food or
carbohydrates using carbon dioxide and water in the presence of light to make sugar with oxygen released
as a by-product.The Study of turf grass comprises of two parts i.e. the knowledge of growing of plants and
their use in beautification programme. The information on above aspect is scattered in different book and
a great difficulty was being felt by students, landscapers and scientist. In this context, a need of simple
manual on introduction, cultivation and management of turf plants is highly demanded by student of
Horticulture and florists of India..

I compliment A.K. Tiwari, Shephalika Amrapali and Girish K.S. who have put in sincere efforts in
bringing out this publication.

Pune (K. P. Singh)

June, 2015
 Preface

A lawn is an integral part of a garden or landscape and is primarily for aesthetic and
recreational purpose. However lawn serves several other purposes as well. Scientific reports say
that lawn grasses have the ability to mitigate runoff from urban environments, absorbs
atmospheric pollutants, provide evaporative cooling that translate in to energy savings and
improved comfort, remediate contaminated soils, increase property values and enhance mental
health. But unfortunately all these beneficial effects of lawn have been ignored. Despite so many
benefits the lawn have not received due consideration in the past. However with the increasing
awareness about the importance of lawn, scientific interventions have been initiated in the area of
lawn management and improvement of lawn grasses.

Establishment of a beautiful lawn is very demanding and depends on proper planning

starting right from the selection of suitable grass species, soil preparation, understanding
environmental and cultural requirements, planting, aftercare and maintenance practices and
management of insect pest and diseases.

This manual is an outcome of the teaching, research and field experiences and is mainly
brought out to guide the academicians, researchers and students as well as for amateur, corporate,
industrial houses, turf and golf industry who are involved in the management of lawn and
improvement of lawn grasses.

Authors will appreciate the help of Dr. M. Kannan, Professor (Hort.), Department of
Floriculture and Landscaping, Horticultural College and Research Institute, TNAU, Coimbarote
and Dr. S. L. Chawla, Associate Professor, Department of Floriculture and Landscaping, ASPEE
College of Horticulture, Navsari Agricultural University, Navsari by providing the photographs
and valuable information of different lawn grass species to be included in this bulletin.

A. K. Tiwari
K. P. Singh
Shephalika Amrapali
Girish K. S.

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viii
1. Introduction

Plants are important to humankind not only economically, environmentally and industrially
but also spiritually, historically and aesthetically, they sustain human life through direct and
indirect gains by providing a wide range of products for survival and prosperity. With the
advancement in agriculture and increase in population, large settlements developed, marking the
beginning of urbanization. More and more people moved to urban areas for comfortable life.
Increasing human needs resulted in large-scale exploitation of natural resources, great reduction
in forest cover and extinction of many species of flora and fauna. The extent of forest cover is a
good indication of the health of the land. The large scale deforestation in recent decades has
rendered the sensitive catchment areas and hilly areas particularly vulnerable to soil erosion. In
search of the sun, space and verdure, man drifts from the ancient town and establishers himself,
in garden suburbia. A lawn has always been an integral part of any garden or landscape and is
considered one of its most important features. A well kept lawn adds to the aesthetic value of a
garden. Maintenance of lawn requires little patience and care, however the final result is always
worth waiting for as it gives very beautiful and soothing effect to the landscape.

A lawn is an area of land of closely mowed grasses primarily for aesthetic and recreational
purpose. It is composed of thousands of individual plants crowded and forced into an unnatural
growth habit which gives the appearance of a beautiful green carpet amidst colourful flowers in
a garden. It is basically an area of land planted with grass and other low lying plants. Lawn can
be called as turf, pitch, field or green depending upon its plantation, usage and continent. Selection
of lawn grass depends upon its use and season of plantation.

Importance of Lawn
Lawn besides its aesthetic and recreational value serves other purposes as well. Scientific
reports say that lawn grasses have ability to mitigate runoff from urban environments, absorb
atmospheric pollutants, provide evaporative cooling that translates into energy savings and
improved comfort, remediate contaminated soils, increase property values, and enhance mental
health. The details of importance are as under:-

1. Climate Control: Turf serves as a natural air-conditioner. On a hot day, compare the
difference between standing on pavement and standing on turf. The difference in
temperature and comfort is measurable. The turf on eight average-sized healthy front lawns
has the cooling effect of 70 tonnes of air conditioning, enough for 16 average homes.

2. Dust filter: Turf traps dust and smoke particles from the air and acts as a filter for the air we
breathe. This is particularly important in urban areas where dust generated by cars and trucks
can be trapped and washed down into the soil, preventing further movement.

3. Erosion control: Grass offers a very efficient and inexpensive erosion control function. Turf
intercepts raindrops before they disturb the soil. Turf promotes water percolation rather than

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

runoff. Our streams and drainage infrastructure would be absolutely overwhelmed if not for
turf's water-retention capabilities. Our fertile soil would be lost if the turf biomass was not
so efficient at slowing water runoff.

4. Business and economic improvement: Lawns increase the value of a property by 15 to 20

per cent. It improves curb appeal. In real estate homes with well-maintained landscapes and
turf sell quicker and for higher values. The well-maintained landscapes increase tenant
satisfaction and lower vacancy rates.

5. Golf courses: The people play golf for exercise and relaxation. Turf is an integral part of this
enjoyable activity.

6. Environmental benefits: Turf capture and use greenhouse gases, thereby counteracting
climate change. Turf also traps air pollution and generates much of the oxygen we breathe.
A 50- by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four to breathe for one year.
Turf also acts as a barrier that deters chemicals from entering the soil profile. The natural
shedding of turf stems and leaves, as well as mowing clippings left on the lawn contribute
large amounts of valuable organic matter to the soil over a number of years.

7. Injury reducer: Well-maintained turf areas serve as excellent sports surfaces. Turf helps to
absorb physical impact and reduce injuries. As a playing surface it is safer than artificial grass
or bare soil. It provides traction and cushioning.

8. Garbage prevention: Garbage is less likely to be thrown on a landscape that is well

maintained.

9. Therapeutic benefits: Turf provides mental health benefits. The Horticultural Therapy
Association exists to promote therapeutic benefits of green space as a technique for
rehabilitation. It has been shown that looking at images of landscapes and plants helps to
reduce stress. Grassy areas in golf courses, cemeteries, parks and homes can create feelings
of peacefulness and remind us that the earth is alive.

10. Noise reducer: Grassy areas can decrease noise by eight to 10 decibels. This is especially
important in an urban location.

11. Water filter: Research has demonstrated that storm water runoff from a healthy lawn rarely
occurs. Not only does grass slow down water and soil runoff, but it also protects surface
water quality as it filters and cleans the water percolating into streams, drainage systems and
aquifers.

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2. Types of Lawn Grasses

Lawns primarily are made up of grasses. Though there is certain grass like plants species viz
sedges, low herbs and some wild flowers which can be used as an alternative to these grass species.
Here we will be focusing on grasses only. There are several species of grasses which can be used
for developing lawns. Some of these prefer warm and humid temperature while others require
cool and dry weather. These are known as Lawn grasses and can be categorized in several ways.
However, most commonly the lawn grasses are categorized as cool season and warm season
grasses on the basis of the season of foliage.

Table 1: List of lawn grasses on the basis of season of their foliage-

Common Name Botanical Name
A. Warm-Season Grasses
Bahia grass Paspalum notatum
Bermuda grass Cynodon dactylon
Buffalo grass Buchloe dactyloides
Carpet grass Axonopus affinis
Centipede grass Eremochloa ophiuroides
Kikuyu grass Pennisetum clandestinum
Seashore paspalum Paspalum vaginatum
St. Augustine grass Stenotaphrum secundatum
Japanese lawn grass Zoysia japonica
Mascarene grass Zoysia tenuifolia
B. Cool-Season Grasses
Annual blue grass Poa annua
Annual rye grass Lolium multiflorum
Chewings fescue Festuca rubra spp. rubra
Colonial bent grass Agrostis tenuis
Creeping bent grass Agrostis palustris
Creeping red fescue Festuca rubra spp. rubra
Hard fescue Festuca ovina spp. duriuscula
Kentucky blue grass Poa pratensis
Perennial rye grass Lolium perenne
Rough blue grass Poa trivialis
Tall fescue Festuca arundinacea
Velvet bent grass Agrostis canina

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

A. Warm Season Lawn Grass

Warm season lawn grasses are mostly drought tolerant grasses and some of these can survive
as high as 45°C where as low temperature (-15 °C) can kill most of the warm season grasses. These
requires a minimum temperature of 10°C for its growth. However the sitable range for the
temperature requirement is around 25°C-35 °C. It requires one long growing period over spring
and summer and stay dormant in cooler season. Low temperature result in discolouration of
foliage turning tits shades to tan/brown. Important warm season grasses are described as under-

1. Bermuda grass (Cynodon spp.)

Bermuda grass which is also known as Doob grass is a major turf species for sport fields,
lawns, parks, golf courses and general utility turfs in India, Australia, Africa, South America and
the Southern region of the United States. It is found in over 100 countries throughout the tropical
and subtropical areas of the world. The genus Cynodon comprises nine species with C. dactylon
being the most widespread. These grasses can easily be grown from their seeds. Common
Bermuda grass, C. dactylon, is naturalized throughout the warmer regions of the India. Bermuda
grass has numerous turf uses. It is a tetraploid species with broad genetic variability serves to
explain its widespread distribution. Other Cynodon species have a more limited natural
distribution and are often restricted to one particular habitat. C. dactylon is highly fertile, whereas
the diploid species such as C. transvaalensis rarely produce viable seed.

2. Bahia grass (Paspalum notatum)

Paspalum notatum, is also known as Bahia Grass, Common Bahia or Pensacola Bahia, is a
tropical to subtropical perennial grass (family Poaceae). Bahia grass is native to Mexico and South
America. It prefers sandy soils and is tolerant to shade. Bahia grass is a warm season lawn and
pasture grass and can survive period of drought. It involves moderate maintenance and mowing
and is prone to less diseases and insect problems when compared to other warm lawn grass types.
There are several varieties of Bahia grass of which Argentine and Pensacola are more popular. It
is a hardy grass for lawn purpose.

3. Carpet grass (Axonopus spp.)

Grasses of genus Axonopus is a generally known as carpet grass. They are native to the tropical
and subtropical regions of America. They are sometimes rhizomatous and many are tolerant of
periodic submersion. Selected species:
Axonopus affinis – narrow leaf carpet grass
Axonopus aureus - golden carpet grass
Axonopus compressus - broadleaf carpet grass
Axonopus fissifolius - common carpet grass
Axonopus furcatus - big carpet grass

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Carpet grasses are warm season grasses that grow well on poor and wet soil where other
grasses do not even grow. They are shallow rooted and hence do not tolerate drought condition.
These are cold tolerant and are ideal for shady, damp and moist area.

4. Centipede grass (Eremochloa ciliaris)

Centipede grass of all warm season grass types, involves least maintenance. They are uniform
growing, thick sod forming and have a medium to light green coloured grass. It is a creeping
perennial grass that adapts itself well to sandy and acidic soils of low fertility grade.

5. Zoysia Grass (Zyosia spp.)

It is native to China, Japan and other parts of Southeast Asia. The species was named to
commemorate an 18th century Austrian botanist, Karl von Zois. Zyosia grass a highly versatile
species, make ideal lawn grasses in some situations and can be used on golf courses, parks and
athletic fields. They can be grown in all kinds of soils ranging from sandy to clay soils, both acid
and alkaline in reaction. Zoysia grass is extremely drought tolerant. it turns straw colored under
severe drought conditions and has the capacity to respond quickly to subsequent irrigation or
rainfall. Its water requirements are similar to those of Bermuda grasses. The leaf blades of Zoysia
grass are among the first to roll under drought conditions, hence conserve moisture more
effectively than other species. Zoysia grass also has deep root system which helps extracting water
from greater soil depths more effectively. Zoysia grass is nearly as salt tolerant as Bermuda grass.
It is widely grown along sandy seashores where drainage is adequate. Zoysia grass does not
tolerate poorly drained soils irrespective of soil pH reaction. Zoysia grasses are among the most
wear tolerant turf grasses. However, these are slow growing with very poor recuperative potential.
Therefore, they perform only satisfactorily on lawns, golf course fairways and baseball fields.

B. Cool Season Lawn Grass

Cool season grasses are for temperate condition and require a minimum temperature of 5°C
for its growth. The suitable temperature range for their proper growth is 10°C-25°C. These require
cool summer with two growing periods of rapid growth in summer and spring. These grasses
retain their colour at extremely low temperature. These generally develope into dense carpet like
lawns with very little thatch. Some important cool season lawn grasses are described as under-

1. Bent grass (Agrostis spp.)

Bentgrass (Agrostis) is a large genus with over 100 species. In Europe and parts of Asia, the
grass is native and commonly found in lawns, pastures and sport fields. It is considered the most
beautiful of lawn grasses owing to its texture, deep green colour, thick density and low growing
habit. They thrive in cool climates and are called luxury grass that involves high maintenance.
Colonial, creeping and velvet are its varieties that differ in growing habits and texture owing to

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climate and environments. Bent grass can be planted either by seed or sod. They are preferred in
the gardens because of their deep green colour and low growing habit. They are also called as
velvet grasses. Bent grass tolerates acid soil conditions and prefers full sun. Used primarily for golf
courses, putting greens, baseball fields and very elegant lawns. It has the ability to grow in a wide
range of soil types and can tolerate very acid soils.

2. Bluegrass (Poa pratensis)

They require medium amount of lawn care and are ideal for home as well as for sports areas.
They are very beautiful with their dense, high quality deep bluish appearance or bright green
appearance. They are deep bluish or bright blue green in appearance. It is a highly variable species,
with cultivars that differ in color, texture, density, vigor, disease resistance and tolerance to close
mowing.

3. Rye grass (Lolium multiflorum)

Rye grass grows well and fast from seed. It is not as aggressive as some other types of turf
because it spreads by growing larger clumps, rather than sending out rhizomes or stolons.
Therefore, the seeding rate is higher than for some other grasses.

3. Raising Lawn Grasses

Lawn quality is dependent on its successful establishment which is further influenced by
proper planning including soil preparation, understanding environmental and cultural
requirement, planting and after care and maintenance practices and pest management.
Fertilization is one of the most important lawn procedure required for growing perfect lawn and
improving as well as maintaining its high quality. Other activities include irrigation, aeration,
mowing etc. All these activities vary under different conditions according to soil type and grass
species.

Establishment of Lawn and after care

Establishment phase is critical and require a number of practices to ensure uniform dense
growth of the turf. Mulching in combination with irrigation is the key factor in successful
establishment of lawn. Proper monitoring for shading of grass seedlings is requied for shading
in case straw mulching is done.. If new seedling shows sign of yellowing, the mulch should be
raked away lightly.

1. Selection of suitable lawn grass for particular condition: All grass species and cultivar
are not equally suitable for all conditions. Therefore, for successfull establishment of a lawn
this is considered as one of the most important factor.

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2. Preparation of land: This is is the key aspect in establishing a lawn successfully. It includes
soil testing for pH reaction and nutrient availability, cleaning and grading, tillage for
establishment of subsurface if needed and topsoil and finally fertilizer application and liming
followed by final grading.

3. Planting: Grasses are generally propagated vegetatively, though there are grass species
which can be propagated through seeds as well. The methods generally used are seeding,
sodding, plugging, dibbing, turfing, plastering etc. The factors affecting establishment of
lawn through seeding are - planting procedures, mulching and post germination care. The
seeding methods used, range from planting by hand to using mechanical equipment. Time
of sowing, seed rate seed depth and other issues related to seeding mainly depends on grass
species its growth habit and seed size. For example grass species with lateral growth through
rhizome, stolons or both are planted at lower seed rate. Also smaller the seed lower will be
the seed rate as the number of seed per gram will be more.

Vegetative planting is simply the transplanting of large or small pieces of grass. Solid
sodding covers the entire seedbed with vegetation. Spot sodding, plugging, sprigging or
stolonizing refer to the planting of pieces of sod or individual stems or underground runners
called stolons or rhizomes. Most warm-season turfgrasses are established by planting
vegetative plant parts. Exceptions to this include centipedegrass, carpetgrass, common
bermudagrass and Japanese lawngrass (Zoysia japonica), which can be established from seed.

4. Sodding: Sodding is an expensive method of vegetative propagation. However, it can enable

establish an instant lawn. This method is recommended where quick cover is desired for
some specific purpose viz., checking soil erosion or aesthetic reasons. Establishment
procedures for sod include soil preparation, obtaining sod of high quality, transplanting and
postplanting care. Soil preparation for sodding is identical to that for seeding. The primary
objective in sod transplanting is to achieve as quick rooting into the underlying soil as
possible. Factors that influence quick rooting include: proper soil preparation, adequate soil
moisture in the underlying soil and transplanting techniques that will minimize sod drying.

5. Sprigging: Sprigging is another method of vegetative propagation where stolons or

rhizomes are planted in furrows or small holes. A sprig is an individual stem or piece of stem
of grass without any adhering soil. A suitable sprig should have two to four nodes from
which roots can develop. Soil preparation for sprigging should be the same as for the other
methods of planting. Sprigs are planted at a depth of 1-2 inches, 4-6 inches apart in the
furrows. However, shallow planting can also be practiced provided adequate moisture is
available.

Another method of sprigging is to place the sprigs on the soil surface at the desired
interval end-to-end, about 6 inches apart, and then press one end of the sprig into the soil with

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

a notched stick or blunt piece of metal like a dull shovel. A portion of the sprig should be left
above ground exposed to light. Regardless of the planting method, each sprig should be
tamped or rolled firmly into the soil Sprigs planted this way require frequent light watering
once or twice a week until roots become well established and may be required for sever
weeks.

6. Stolonizing: Stolonizing is the broadcasting of stolons on the soil surface and covering by
topdressing or pressing into the soil. Stolonizing requires more planting material but
produces a quicker cover than sprigs.

7. Plugging: The planting of 2- to 4-inch diameter square, circular or block-shaped pieces of

sod at regular intervals is called plugging. Three to ten times as much planting material is
necessary for plugging as compare to sprigging. The most common turfgrasses that are
started by the use of plugs are St. Augustine grass, zoysia grass and centipede grass. These
plugs are planted into prepared soil on 6- to 12-inch centers. The closer the plugs are planted
together, the faster the sod will cover. However, the closer the plugs are planted together, the
more sod it will take to provide plugs to cover the lawn area.

8. Overseeding: Overseeding into thin turf or small patches of bare soil can be done in late
winter, spring or early fall. Spring and early fall overseedings can be made following aeration
(six to eight passes over the lawn), dethatching, or by using a disk-type seeder that drops
seed into slits in the soil. When overseeding, it is especially important that the seed is in
contact with the soil and has enough space to germinate and develop.

9. Fertilization: Fertilization does more to improve poor quality turf or maintain good quality
turf than any other single management practice. Grass plants normally need nitrogen,
phosphorus (phosphate), and potassium (potash) in greater amounts than can be supplied
naturally from soil. The only way to determine how much phosphate (P2O5) and potash
(K2O) is required by turf is from a soil test.

In most cases, turfgrasses require nutrients in the ratio of approximately two parts
nitrogen to one part phosphate and one part potash. These needs can be met for most lawns
by application of a 10-6-4 fertilizer having 35 percent or more of the total nitrogen as water
insoluble nitrogen (WIN) or controlled release nitrogen (CRN) in late summer/early fall.
Other fertilizers having approximated 2-1-1 ratios and containing one-third or more of the
total nitrogen as water insoluble nitrogen or controlled release nitrogen may be used at rates
to supply equivalent amounts of nutrients. If only one fertilizer application is made annually,
apply it in late summer to early fall.

9. Liming: Most turfgrasses prefer a soil pH ranging from 6.0 to 7.0. If the soil is too acidic for
proper turfgrass growth, lime may be applied. Lime should be applied in accordance with a

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 Lawn Management

soil test recommendation. The lime requirement should be met by applying ground
agricultural limestone. Fall applications are preferred as rain, snow, and freezing/thawing of
the soil during the winter aid in working the limestone into the soil. Late winter is also a
good time to apply lime.

10. Mowing: Most lawns should be cut at two inches or above and mowed on a regular basis as
long as the grass is growing. Frequency of cut should be based on the growth rate of the
grass. No more than one third of the total leaf surface should be removed at a given mowing.
Thus, if the turf is cut at two inches, it should be mowed when it reaches a height no greater
than three inches. Clippings do not need to be removed provided the frequency of mowing
is adequate. All mowing equipment must be kept sharp and in proper adjustment.

11. Dethatching: Thatch is the tightly intermingled layer of partially decomposed grass stems
and roots which develops beneath the actively growing green vegetation and above the soil
surface. Thatch decreases the vigor of turfgrasses by restricting the movement of air, water,
plant nutrients, and pesticides into the soil. Also, turfgrass roots grow into the thatch and
become desiccated as the thatch dries. Thatch should be mechanically removed with
dethatching equipment with vertically rotating blades or aeration equipment. This operation
should be performed when thatch is greater than or equal to one inch in depth and only
during periods of cool weather and adequate moisture. Thatch should not be removed during
periods of high temperatures, drought, or during late fall when winter desiccation may occur.
Maintaining a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 will favour microbial activity and hence, break
down of thatch. It is not necessary to dethatch every year, rather, only when thatch build-up
becomes excessive.

12. Aeration: Aeration is the process of removing plugs of soil from the turf area, thereby creating
an artificial system of large pores by which moisture or plant nutrients can be taken into the
soil. Aeration is employed to alleviate soil compaction and can significantly reduce thatch.

Aerators are equipped with hollow tines (usually 3–4 inches in length and ¼ to ¾ inches
in width) or open spoons to remove plugs from the soil. Equipment having solid tines or
spikes should not be mistaken for aerating equipment. Aeration should be done during
periods of cool weather (early to mid-spring or late summer to early fall) to facilitate rapid
recovery of the grass. Sometimes spring dethatching will bring large numbers of weed seeds
to the soil surface and create voids for weeds to germinate and grow. Adequate moisture is
necessary for penetration of the aerator tines and for removal of the plugs. The plugs can be
broken apart once they have dried.

13. Irrigation: It is important to ensure that the soil is always moist while germination of seeds
or when seedlings are growing. The soil should be irrigated frequently to keep it moist but
not saturated until the plants can develop sufficient root systems to take advantage of deeper

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

and less frequent watering. Irrigation requirement reduces if mulching is done. Irrigation
frequency reduces as grass seedlings starts maturing.

Newly transplanted sod is irrigated to a depth of 4 inches immediately after transplanting

to promote deep root growth. Daily, if possible or frequent watering is recommended in the
absence of adequate rainfall, during the first week and in sufficient quantities to maintain
moist soil to a depth of at least 4 inches. The sod should be irrigated lightly during midday
hours until rooting has taken place into the underlying soil. As the roots begin to penetrate
the soil, deeper, thorough watering is recommended.

14. Weed management: Once seeds have germinated, mode and timing of weeding becomes
critical. Most herbicides are toxic to newly germinated plants. Therefore application of post
emergence herbicide should be delayed as long as possible. The first step in weed control is
the development of a dense, properly managed turf. If this approach fails to prevent weed
infestation, herbicides are available that will control most turfgrass weeds.Annual grass
weeds, such as crabgrass, can be controlled with pre-emergence herbicides. These chemicals
should be applied prior to weed seed germination in early to mid-spring depending on the
location. Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions and ground ivy, are usually controlled with
broadleaf herbicides. It is especially important to identify the weed(s) present and select the
herbicide that will provide the best control of the weed(s). Broadleaf herbicide applications
should be made when weeds are actively growing in spring or early fall.

Apart from interfering with the growth of garden plants weeds rob the soil of its rich
nutrients. This makes it utmost necessary for to take due care and ensure that weeds do not
get a chance to grow in lawn. In case they manage to sneak into lawn, even after the protective
measures, we should get rid of them as soon as possible, trying to stick to the natural methods
and avoiding the chemical-based products. Vigorous, healthy turf properly maintained
provides the best means of weed control in Bermuda grass turf. But, where turf thins due to
environmental stress, pest problems or poor management, weeds rapidly invade grass. Some
of the common methods to manage weeds in the lawn is as under:-

1. Mulching
Using mulch is one of the best and safest methods of killing the weeds in lawn. It has been
seen that covering the garden soil with mulch, up to 5-7.5 cm, blocks weeds. For this purpose, we
can make use of shredded bark, wood chips, straw, cocoa bean hulls, gravel and rocks. Apart from
killing the weeds, mulch will also help the soil retain moisture, thus reducing the frequency of
watering.

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 Lawn Management

2. Pouring boiling water

Exposing the weeds to boiling water helps a great deal in killing them. Pour boiling water on
the roots of the weeds. The only drawback of this method is that it may require several
applications.

3. Washing with soap

Using soap on the weeds cleans them thoroughly, in other words makes lawn free of them.
For this purpose, we need to put one quart (4 cups) of water in a bowl and add 5 tablespoons of
liquid soap (such as dishwashing liquid). Now, mix it thoroughly and pour into a spray bottle.
Coasting the weeds with this solution will help get rid of them, especially on a hot day.

4. Application of salt
In case we want to try another method of killing the weeds in our lawn, rock salt will be the
best bet. We can get large areas of weeds (and even plants) by putting rock salt on them. However,
do make sure that there are no garden plants in close proximity of the weeds. This is because the
salt spreads when it rains, harming the plants in the vicinity, if any.

Broad leaved weeds including clover, chickweed, dandelion, henbit, dichondra and others
can be controlled with the hormone type herbicides such as 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba. Grassy weeds
including crab grass and dalli sgrass can be controlled with several applications of MSMA in
spring or early summer. Annual grasses including crabgrass and annual bluegrass can be
controlled with pre-emergence herbicides. However, all of these herbicides must be used together
with good management to effectively reduce weed populations.

Raising of the warm season grasses for quality turf

1. Bermuda Grass
Bermuda grass is one of the most popular grasses that grows well in warm seasons. They
can easily be maintained by moderate lawn care, and mowing practices. Low winter temperature
is the factor that limits the hills distribution of Bermuda grass. Bermuda grass is a perennial species
adapted to tropical and subtropical climates. It grows best under extended periods of high
temperatures, mild winters and moderate to high rainfall. Research has demonstrated that
Bermuda grass will continue to grow at night temperatures as low as 1°C if day temperatures are
near 21°C. However, when average temperatures drop below 10°C growth stops and the grass
begins to discolour. At low temperature Bermuda grass shows discolouration and certain
biochemical changes viz., change in protein fractions composition and increase in carbohydrates
reserve in the stems and rhizomes. Bermuda grass stay dormant at extremely low winter
temperatue. The roots and rhizomes of Bermuda grass continue to grow several weeks after the
leaves and stems stop growth. In warm frost-free climates Bermuda grass remains green

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

throughout the year, but growth is significantly reduced at the onset of cool nights. The species
grows well where average daily temperature is above 23°C. Optimum daytime temperature for
Bermuda grass ranges between 35 and 37°C.

Soil temperature, as influenced by air temperature, is also important for the growth and
development of Bermuda grass turf. Soil temperature above 18°C is required for significant growth
of rhizomes, roots and stolons. Optimum soil temperature for root growth is around 26°C. It has
a requirement of bright sun light and does not grow well under shaded conditions. The duration
of the light period (day length) also influences growth and development of this grass. Both
increased light intensity and day length promote rhizome, stolon and leaf growth in Bermuda
grass. At low light intensity (less than 60% full sunlight) Bermuda grass develops narrow,
elongated leaves; thin upright stems; elongated internodes and weak rhizomes. Consequently, it
develops a very sparse turf under moderately shaded conditions.

Bermuda grass is found in tropical and subtropical climates with 62 to 250 cm of annual
rainfall, but it also survives in arid climates along waterways and in irrigated areas. Where annual
rainfall is below 50 cm per year, Bermuda grass requires irrigation for its survival. Bermuda grass
undergoes semidormant state during very dry conditions, but can survive extreme droughts.
Rhizomes of Bermuda grass can lose 50% or more of their weight and still recover when favourable
moisture condition is available. Generally, common Bermuda grass, or tetraploid species of C.
dactylon, have the deep root and rhizome penetration and withstand prolonged drought periods
in a better way. Common Bermuda grass also has the characteristic of producing seed heads under
stress conditions such as drought. Thus, the seeds provide another method by which the species
can survive extreme drought. Some natural biotypes of C. dactylon produce numerous seeds.
ICAR-DFR have identified four mutants viz., DFR-C-440, DFR-C-444, DFR-C-446 and DFR-C-448.
All mutants are under evaluation for further validation of quality traits.

Bermuda grass grows well on a wide variety of soils from heavy clays to deep sands,
provided fertility is not a limiting factor. It tolerates both acidic and alkaline soil conditions and
is highly tolerant to saline conditions. Bermuda grass survives some flooding but does best on
well-drained sites. Although it may persist under low fertility, Bermuda grass has high nitrogen
requirement for good quality turf.

A dense Bermuda grass turf tolerates moderate wear and compaction and recovers rapidly.
Under moderate fertility, and adequate moisture with frequent mowing Bermuda grass forms a
dense, fine-textured turf. The only situation where Bermuda grass cannot be used is under
moderate to heavy shaded condition.

Bermuda grass seed should be planted at a rate of 450-500 g of seed per 1,000 sq. ft. Hulling
is recommended for spring and summer plantingfor faster germination however it is not needed
for Late fall and winter plantings in order to delay germination for until more favorable

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conditions occur in the spring. Unhulled bermudagrass seed might be planted together with
annual ryegrass in the fall to provide temporary cover . Annual ryegrass will delay the
development of a bermudagrass turf, but it may be needed for cover and protection.When planting
in the fall and winter on areas subject to severe erosion, wheat or rye can be drilled with unhulled
bermudagrass seed. The wheat or rye will establish quickly and provide some cover during winter
months. The small grains also provide less competition than ryegrass to seedling bermudagrass
in late spring.

Bermuda grass sprigs or stolons for planting should be freshly harvested and protected from
desiccation by wind and sun. They should not be subject to excessive heating which occurs when
moist planting material is tightly packed or covered for several days. Sprigs are usually
distinguished from stolons in that sprigs consist of stolons with roots and rhizomes; whereas
stolons consist of above ground parts only. Sprigs are produced by shredding harvested sod or by
sprig harvesters. Stolons are generally harvested with a vertical mower or a flail mower set close
to the ground. Sprigs will tolerate slightly more environmental stress during planting and
establishment because of the energy reserves in the roots and rhizomes. Sprigs or stolons should
be planted at 5 to 15 bushels per 1.00 sq. meter depending on the rate of cover required. Higher
planting rates up to 25 or more bushels per 1.00 sq. meter will provide a faster grass cover. A
minimum planting rate should be 5 bushels per 1.00 sq. meter or 200 bushels per acre. Sprigs or
stolons should be broadcasted on a clean seedbed and pressed into moist soil with a roller or
covered lightly with soil or mulch. Moist conditions must be maintained for 2 to 3 weeks after
planting to obtain a good cover.

Seed or sprigs should not be planted before soil temperature is above 18°C. Planting too early
may retard development of a turf and extend the critical establishment period for several weeks.
Soil temperatures of 20 to 23°C are ideal for germination and rapid development of bermuda
grass.

Fertilizer, as determined by a soil test, should be incorporated into the soil during seedbed
preparation. Nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to the soil surface immediately prior to planting or
at the time of planting at a rate of 500g per 1,00 sq. meter Nitrogen should be applied 3 to 4 week
intervals until a cover is obtained.

Mowing should begin several weeks after planting to control weed growth and promote
spreading of grass. If additional weed control is needed selective post emergence herbicides can
be applied 3 to 4 weeks after planting. Preemergence herbicides should not be applied to
bermudagrass turf during the first growing season. Weed control will greatly enhance
bermudagrass growth and coverage.

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 ICAR-Directorate of Floricultural Research

Bermuda grass respond readily to irrigation. In general, water requirement of Bermuda grass
depends on turf use and climatic factors such as temperature, wind, humidity and light intensity.
Water requirement increases with increasing levels of maintenance (golf green > sports field >
lawn > roadside), higher temperatures, higher wind speed, lower humidity and greater light
intensity. The longer the growing season the greater the water requirement for the year. Water use
rates may range from less than 0.25 cm per day to 0.75 cm per day depending on the environmental
conditions. The frequency of irrigation is dependent on water use rate and soil type. Clay soils, for
example, hold more water than sandy soils and, consequently, require less frequent irrigation.
The depth of the root zone also influences the frequency of irrigation. Grass roots can grow to a
depth of 2 meter or more depending on soil profile.. However, the majority of the root system, 80%
or more, is found in the top 15 cm of soil. Where roots extend several meters into the soil, thorough
and infrequent irrigation produces the most drought tolerant turf. Light, frequent irrigations such
as practiced on golf greens produce shallow-rooted grass that shows drought stress very rapidly.

Bermuda grass does not tolerate poorly drained soil. On compact and heavy clay soils,
irrigation must be closely controlled to avoid waterlogged conditions. Hard, compacted sites can
often be improved with respect to water penetration by core aeration and top dressing with sand
or an aggregate material. The presence of a heavy thatch layer will also interfere with water
penetration. Thatch removal by vertical mowing and core aeration also improves water
penetration and reduces the frequency of irrigation Mowing requirements for Bermuda grass turf
are dependent on variety, use and the level of maintenance. Common Bermuda grass and other
medium textured varieties produce dense, wear tolerant turf when mowed at heights between 1
and 2.5 cm. The lower height being good for golf and sports turf and the tall height for lawns. At
mowing height more than 2.5 cm Bermuda grass develop turf with an acceptable appearance but
with poor wear tolerance. Fine-textured hybrid Bermuda grasses such as Tifway should be mowed
at a height of 2.5 cm or less. Taller mowing heights with these grasses produce puffy, stemmy turf
that is easily scalped during mowing. As a general recommendation to maintain good turf density
and color, no more than 40% of the leaf tissue should be removed at any mowing. Thus, the shorter
the mowing height, the more frequent the turf must be mowed. Reel mowers produce the best
cut on Bermuda grass turf. However, the number of blades per cutting reel determines the
smoothness of cut. Common Bermuda grass mowed at 2.5 cm or higher can be cut with a reel with
5 or 6 blades. Common and hybrid Bermuda grasses mowed at 1 to 2.5 cm should be cut with a
reel containing 7 blades. At heights below 1 cm, 9 to 11 blades per reel are required for a smooth
cut.

Bermuda grasses have a relatively high fertilizer requirement to maintain a high level of turf
quality. The amount and frequency of fertilizer required depends on the desired appearance and
growth rate of the turf, length of growing season, soil type, Bermuda grass variety and the use of
the turf. Where high quality is of critical importance and the turf is mowed frequently, 450 to 600
g of nitrogen per 1,00 sq. meter per month may be applied during the growing season. The lowest

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rate of nitrogen that can be applied and still maintain acceptable Bermuda grass turf for sport
fields and golf courses is about 225 g of N per 1.00 sq. meter per month. Soil types also influence
fertilizer requirements Sandy soils require light but frequent applications of nitrogen because of
low nitrogen retention. Sandy soils are also typically low in other nutrients such as phosphorus
and potassium and these nutrients must also be provided through fertilization. Soil tests are
required to determine phosphorus, potassium, calcium and other nutrient deficiencies. Potassium
is particularly important because of its contribution to root growth, environmental stress tolerance
(heat, cold and drought) and wear tolerance. Potassium has also been found to reduce
susceptibility of Bermuda grass to leaf spot diseases. Bermuda grass tolerates a wide range of soil
reactions, but performs best between pH 6.5 and 8.0. At pH levels below 6.5 limestone should be
added according to soil test recommendations.

Turf use has a significant effect on the amount of fertilizer required. Golf greens, bowling
greens and tennis courts have very high nitrogen requirement; sport fields and golf course
fairways have intermediate requirement and lawns, and other low maintenance areas have low
nitrogen requirement.

Hybrid Bermuda grasses require regular cultivation practices - vertical mowing, aeration
and topdressing - to maintain high quality turf. Bermuda grass golf greens may require weekly
vertical mowing and monthly topdressing under heavy use conditions. Sports fields and golf
fairways may need these cultural operations on an annual basis. Without cultivation Bermuda
grass turf tends to develop thatch, grain and spongy conditions that result in scalping and a non-
uniform appearance.

2. Zoysia grass raising for turf

There are three principal species of Zoysia grass used for turf: Zoysia japonica, Zoysia matrella,
and Zoysia tenuifolia. These species are differentiated by texture, cold tolerance and aggressiveness.
Zoysia japonica, often called Korean or Japanese lawn grass is more cold tolerant than the other
species, but is also the most coarse textured of the three species. Zoysia japonica is the only species
that can be established from seed. Zoysia matrella (Manilla grass) is chiefly a tropical and
subtropical grass, but can grow well in moderate shade and forms a thick mat in full sun. The leaf
blades of Zoysia matrella are narrow, sharply pointed and wiry. In tropical climates the grass
remains green year around. But, in cooler climates it turns brown after severe frosts and remains
brown until late spring. Zoysia matrella is propagated through sprigs and is quite slow to establishe.
Zoysia tenuifolia is the finest textured, least winter hardy of the Zoysia grasses. It has very fine,
short, wiry leaf blades and forms a dense, fluffy turf. It is extremely slow to spread and is most
often used as a ground cover.

Emerald Zoysia grass is a hybrid between Zoysia japonica and Zoysia tenuifolia. Emerald
combines the fine texture of Zoysia tenuifolia with the cold tolerance and faster rate of spread of

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Zoysia japonica. Emerald is similar to Zoysia matrella in appearance and habit. Zoysia grasses can be
established from seed, sprigs or sod. Zoysia japonica is the only species that can be established from
seed. Emerald Zoysia grass, Manila grass and Zoysia tenuifolia is propagated vegetatively from
sprigs, plugs or sod. The seedbed should be finely pulverized, smooth, firm, and weed-free prior
to planting. Zoysia grass sod may be shredded or torn apart to provide sprigs or it may be cut into
5 cm sod plugs for planting. A sprig should consist of a section of stem or rhizome with 2 or more
nodes. Leaves may not be present on sprigs. Sprigs should be planted no more than 5cm apart in
rows spaced 90 cm apart, or broadcast over an area at a rate of 10 bushels per 1.00 sq. meter If
planted in rows sprigs should not be completely covered with soil. At least one node should be
above soil level. If sprigs are broadcasted over the surface, they should be rolled to insure good
soil contact. Freshly sprigged Zoysia grass must be kept moist for several weeks after planting.
Special attention should be given to weed control since Zoysia grass is lesser aggressive than
Bermuda grass and some of the common turf weeds.

A newly planted Zoysia grass turf should be fertilized with a 1-2-1 or similar fertilizer at a rate
of 500 g of nitrogen per 1.00 sq. meter of area at the time of planting. Monthly applications of
nitrogen at 500 g per 1.00 sq. meter will promote the spread of zoysia grass. Sprigging is the least
expensive method of planting zoysia grass and usually gives a faster rate of cover than plugging.
However, keeping the soil moist during the establishment period is most critical with sprigs. Small
plantings of Zoysia grass sprigs can be covered with a clear polyethylene tarp to maintain adequate
moisture and increase soil temperature in the early spring. The cover can be left in place for several
weeks, or until temperatures get too hot. The plastic cover can increase the rate of spread of Zoysia
grass and reduce the time required to obtain a complete cover. The best time for planting Zoysia
grass is late spring and early summer.

Zoysia grasses grow from early spring through late fall when moisture and nutrient
requirements are met. Although Zoysia grass is considered to be a drought tolerant species, it
ceases growth and begins to discolor during extended dry periods. Water should be applied 2 to
3 times per week depending on temperature and soil conditions. Sandy soils require more frequent
irrigations than heavier clay soils; and, as temperature increases, irrigation frequency also
increases. During prolonged droughts when it is impractical to water enough to maintain growth,
weekly applications of as little as 0.5 inch of water are adequate to keep the grass alive. During dry
winter months, Zoysia grass requires occasional irrigation to prevent desiccation and serious loss
of stand even through the grass may be dormant.

Zoysia grass lawns tend to build up a thatch layer, a layer of undecomposed organic residues
just above the soil surface. Proper mowing is essential to prevent the accumulation of thatch in
Zoysia grass turf. Frequent mowing at recommended heights and clipping removal help prevent
thatch accumulation. Avoiding excessive applications of nitrogen fertilizer also helps prevent
thatch accumulation. Occasionally, thatch removal by mechanical means is required to prevent

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serious deterioration of Zoysia grass turf. Vertical mowers or flail mowers may be used to remove
excess thatch from Zoysia grass turf. Thatch removal should be done well before fall to allow ample
time for re-growth. Scalping the lawn in early spring to remove accumulated growth will also
help prevent thatch accumulation.

Zoysia grasses are relatively free of serious pest problems. Brown patch, rust and leaf spot
diseases can cause problems in Zoysia grass turf, but the grass usually recovers when
environmental conditions change. In intensively maintained lawns, fungicides may be needed to
prevent these diseases. In the fall, applications of Banner, Daconil or Bayleton are required to
prevent rust in Zoysia lawns.

Raising some of the important cool season grasses

1. Bentgrass (Agrostis)
Bentgrass (Agrostis) has the ability to grow in a wide range of soil types and can tolerate very
acid soils. A good seed bed is essential for establishing a good stand of bent grass from seed. Till
the soil 8 to 10 cm deep, remove all sticks, rocks, and other debris. Continue tilling until the soil
is free of all clumps. Level and smooth the area to prepare a suitable seed bed. Using an over the
shoulder or hand held spreader, spread 450 g or 900 g of bent grass seed per 100 sq. meter. Rake
the seed into the seedbed very lightly then roll firm with a lawn roller. Care should be taken not
to cover bentgrass seed more than 1 cm with soil. Water the area to moisten the top 5 cm of soil.
In the absence of rain, water the seeded area lightly each day to keep the top 5 cm of soil moist.
Continue water applications daily until the bent grass seedlings are three weeks old. Reduce
watering to three times per week for the next thirty days unless there is adequate rainfall.

2. Bluegrass
Bluegrass is best adapted to well-drained, moist, fertile soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
It does best in full sun but will tolerate light shade. It will not perform well on shallow, compacted
soils, or where the pH is excessively high or low. Under the right conditions and with proper
management, Kentucky bluegrass can make a beautiful lawn.

3. Rye grass
Rye grass grows well and fast from seed. It is not as aggressive as some other types of turf
because it spreads by growing larger clumps, rather than sending out rhizomes or stolons.
Therefore, the seeding rate is higher than for some other grasses.

General lawn care in summers

Fertilizer application: In the summer season, it is always advisable to keep the fertilizer
use to a minimum. This is because they contain nitrogen, which, when combined with

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the soaring temperatures of the summers, can lead to burning up of entire lawn. As far
as possible, we should go for a slow-release fertilizer, which has lower nitrogen content
than the usual.
Irrigation: One of the most common mistakes that people tend to make, while taking
care of their lawn in summers, comprises of inadequate watering. It needs to keep in
mind that even though watering as usual, in summers, the evaporation is much more.
So, it is advisable to keep on watering till the time the moisture gets 15 cm into the soil.
Pest management: It has been seen that lawns become much more susceptible to fungal
diseases in the summer season. At the same, even weeds have been observed to grow
faster when the temperatures are high. Thus, it is advisable to take proper care of garden,
keeping them free of fungi as well as weeds.
Mowing: In the summer season, we should always increase the height of the grass,
mowing it to a height of 7.5-8.5 cm. This will help cool down the crowns of the grass and
also discourage various diseases.care should be taken while mowing in the summer
season that more than one-third of the total leaf area is not removed at any one time.

General lawn care in winters

Fertilizer application: In the winter months, lawn will not grow much, remaining more
or less dormant. Therefore, it is advisable not to use fertilizers therein. Rather, wait for
later-winters, when the temperature is a bit higher, for adding fertilizers to lawn. Still,
for fertilizing purposes, the best time would comprise of late fall or early summer.
Irrigation: It is true that in winter season, lawn does not lose too much moisture.
However, this does not mean that stop watering it altogether. Rather, water it at a gap
of somewhere around 3-4 weeks. As and when the grass growing more rapidly, it is
advisable to increase the frequency of watering.
Mowing: With the approach of the winter season, start lowering the height of mower i.e.
mowing down the grass to a shorter length; say around 5.0-7.5 cm. Otherwise, lawn
might become prey to winter diseases. However, make sure to be gradual in the process.
Otherwise, might end up removing all the green leaf tissue and damaging the turf.
Weed management: Winter season present adverse condition for the growth of grass,
but not weeds. In fact, weeds are known to grow faster in cold conditions. So, make sure
to keep looking out for weeds and removing them before they get a chance to do any
damage or else, grass will be in the danger of getting killed by the time spring comes.

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General tips for lawn care under shade

Shady lawns require less fertilizer compared to lawns exposed to the sunlight. 450 to 900
g of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season at two intervals. The ideal
time for fertilization is the first week of September.
Shady lawns don't require ample watering but when watered does it thoroughly.
Lawns in shade are not meant for rough use. As they are quite weak compared to sunny
lawns so it is better not to walk or let the children play on it.
Though moss and creepers like ivy grow largely on the shady lawns but it is not
harmful. It only grows on the empty soil because the grass grows slowly.

4. Insect Pest Management in Lawn

Several of insects and mites are found to be associated with lawn, but not all of them cause
considerable economic or aesthetic damage. Insects like white grubs, sod web worm, chink bug,
armyworm, cutworms, greenbugs and ants cause considerable damage and require immediate
control measures. These insects are not uniformly distributed throughout the land cover, but they
occur sporadically in concentric spots. Diagnosis of insect damage, correct identification of insect
and regular monitoring of insect population and need based application of correct control
measures are the key factors in effective management of lawn pests.

The insects causing economic damage to the lawn can be grouped based on their habit into

i. Subsurface feeding insects, which feed on roots, thatch. Eg.: root grubs, mole cricket,
termites.

ii. Surface feeding insects, which feed on foliage. Eg.: armyworm, cutworm, chinch bug and
greenbug.

I Subsurface feeding insects

1. Root grub: The beetles are polyphagous pests. These beetles are problem in light sandy
and sandy loom soils. They lay eggs in soil. The grubs feed on rootlets due to which it
dries up in patches. Grubs feeding on roots cause yellowing and wilting appearance
which could be misdiagnosed as a nutrient deficiency, which ultimately leads to gradual
thinning and death of the lawn. When turf is easily pulled from the soil and roots are
damaged, it is likely that the grubs are responsible for damage. When lawn is cut about
2 inches deep at the edge of discolored area and rolled back, if the roots are chewed off
and grubs are present in the soil confirms the root grub infestation.

Control measures: The root grubs are difficult to control by means of insecticide
application as they are protected by thatch.

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i. Bioagents like Heterorhabditis spp., Steinernema spp., Bacillus subtilis can be applied
at monthly intervals for augmentation of these bioagents. Proper moisture content
has to be maintained for development of these bioagents. Once they are well
established, will check the root grub population buildup.

ii. Apply insecticides like quinalphos (0.05%) or carbofuran (0.05%) or phorate 10 G

@ 10 kg/ha followed by proper irrigation to allow the percolation of insecticides to
grub feeding zone will also check the root grub problem.

2. Mole cricket: These insects feeds on grass. The female lays about 100 eggs in chambers
in soil. The nymphs grow slowly by undergoing 8 moults at monthly intervals. The
insects damage the lawn grass by burrowing and feeding on roots.

Control measures: Adults of mole cricket are active for few hours during dawn and
dusk hours and are attracted to light. A light trap can be used for the monitoring of
adult activity.
i. Dust the lawn with Malathion 5 per cent @ of 10 kg/acre or phorate 10 G @ 10
kg/ha followed by proper irrigation.

3. Termite: Termites are polyphagous pest which attack roots of lawn grass. The lawn look
like wilt and dry in patches at the site of attack.

Control measures:

i. Soil drenching with chlorpyriphos (0.05%) or malathion (0.1%) before planning the
lawn.

ii. Application of Imidacloprid 30.5SC (0.075%) on affected area.

II Surface feeding insects

1. Armyworm: Young larvae feed on tender leaves by skeletonizing the foliage. Grownup
larvae feed on whole plant leaving circular bare area in the turf. Larvae are distributed
uniformly over a large area. These insects will be active during early morning or late
evening hours.

2. Cutworm: The larva dig a burrow in the ground or thatch, emerge at night and cut the
grass blades off close to the ground level in a circular pattern around the burrow.
Feeding produces brown spots of 1 – 2 inches in diameter and appears as circular spots
of dead grass or depressed spots that look like ball marks.

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Control measures for armyworm and cutworm : Adults of mole cricket are active for
few hours during dawn and dusk hours and are attracted to light. A light trap can be
used for the monitoring of adult activity.

i. Application of acephate (0.05%) or carbaryl(0.1%) or indoxacarb(0.1%) or

spinosad(0.05%)

3. Chinch bugs: These insects feed by sucking the sap from grass stem and foliage.
Damage starts as small, yellow or brown discolored areas. Injured plants look stunted,
yellowed, wilted or dead. Yellowish to brown patches are often noticed along sidewalks.
The young ones found in patches throughout the lawn and prefer dry area. Young ones
will be abundant in thatch and adults will come to the surface between the plants.

Floatation method can be used for monitoring the chinch bug population, in which, a
cylinder with two sides open may be inserted into the lawn till the soil surface and filled
with water, in 10 minutes the chinch bugs will float to the surface.

Control measures:

i. Soil drenching with quinalphos (0.05%) or malathion (0.1%) in the infested area.

4. Green bugs: Tiny insects present in dozen on plant especially on tender foliage. These
insects suck the sap continuously. The infested plants look sick appearance,
discoloration and wilting of affected parts.

Control measures:

i. Spot application of monocrotophos (0.05%) or oxydemeton methyl (0.05%).

ii. Soil drenching with chlorpyriphos (0.1%) or malathion (0.1%) in the infested area.

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5. Lawn Management Calendar

Month Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.
Activities
Seed/Seedling Planting

Gap Filling

Seeding

Fertilizer Application

Liming

Dethatching

Aeration

Weed Management

Insect Pest Management

Root grub

Chinch bug

Sodwebb worm

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Notes

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Notes

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