A few comments

(1) Numerous solutions are possible.

(2) This solution has used the fact that the medium and large figures are in the ratio 3:2.
The marker for lay 2 can be copied and used for lays 3 and 4, thus reducing the costs of
marker making.
(3) An alternative for lay 1 is to have a four garment marker and to spread 75 plies deep.
This would reduce cutting costs but was rejected because of material costs: it
has 15 more plies and higher ends waste, and the additional garment marked might
permit a slightly higher marker utilization.

Bundles of cut work are prepared according to size. Color and quantities, and their
actual composition determined by the requirements of the sewing room. For example all
the components for one bundle of garments can be packed into one box, or each of the
major components packed into one box, or each of the major components packed in its own
container ready to be issued to different preparations and subassembly section in the
factory. Alternatively if unit production system is used, the components for single garment
can be loaded directly into the system from the cutting table.
Bundle Tickets
The tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an important role in
production planning and control for the sewing and finishing sections.
A bundle ticket can be a printed one, a handwritten one or a bar-coded printed. It is
a ticket which finds extensive use in the garment industry for tracking and keeping record
of cloth bundles.

It can be customized according to the needs of the company.

USUALLY CONSISTS OF:
1. Bundle number
2. Order number

37
 3. Lot number
4. Number of pieces in the bundle

5. Part of the garment

6. Size

7. Colour

8. Signature of the cutting room supervisor under whom the order is

executed.
An example for bundle ticket is given below,

This control form originates in either the cutting department or the payroll
department. It is generally used for pay control as well as production control purpose. The
bundle ticket can be used for unit flow as well as bundle flow production systems. The
exact form of the ticket will depend on the production system used. All types of bundle
tickets should have two major divisions: one division which is returned to payroll control
by the production supervisory staff, and the other division which is collected on the pay
cards submitted by the operators. In sectionalized production systems, the bundle ticket
38
should be performed in sections equal in number to the total number of sub-assembly and
assembly lines used to produce the product (in one production system). Each section should
have sub-sections perforated, equal in number to the number of jobs in the sub-assembly
line covered by the ticket section. Each of these individual sub-section by the operator after
she completes her job on the bundle. The main body of the sub-section is the division that
is returned to pay control by the production supervisor after all the jobs in the section have
been completed.
Each of these divisions (the “supervisory” division) should contain the following
information: (a) the serial number of the entire bundle ticket, (b) the name of the sub-
section (such as sleeve, collar, front etc),
(c) the style name or number, (d) the cutting ticket number (or spreading ticket or move
ticket number), (e) the date the bundle was compiled in the cutting department, (f) the size,
amount and color of the bundle, (g) the name of each job in the section and the number of
the operators who did the job next to each job name. Also, the date the operation was
completed, and (h) the signature of the supervisor or checker for the production section
covered by the ticket section.

The sub-section which each operator takes, after she completes her job, should have the
following information listed: (a) the name of the job, (b) the bundle ticket number, (c) the
amount, size, and color of the bundle, (d) the price of job (if a piece work wage system is
used), (e) the style name or number, and (f) the move ticket number controlling the bundle
(or the cutting ticket number).

There should be only one copy of each bundle ticket. There should never be two or more
bundle tickets with the same bundle ticket serial number. The reason is obvious. If this
were not so it would be impossible to prevent payment twice for a given task.

Importance of bundle tickets

1. It is used to avoid the shade variation and size mix up in the final garment.
2. The tracing out of operator is easy.
39
3. Handling of garment parts while sewing is simplified.
4. The garment quality will increase.
5. This system may allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output from
one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators for the
next operation.

Sorting and Bundling

The best work cycle time for this operation results from a workstation layout which permits
the bundler to sort with (a) a motion pattern devoid of back track or crisscross movements,
and (b) minimum distance from stack to stack. Before the bundler begins sorting, the stacks
should be rearranged in a sequence and adjacency which adheres to the above two
principles. The manner of folding or superposing the plies in the bundles should be such
that there is (a) minimum or no creasing, and (b) minimum or no disarranging of the cut
alignment. Any deviation from these two principles increases the pick-up and positioning
time for the sewing operator. If the bundle must be tied securely because of movement
before the operator gets the bundle, care should be taken not to use cord or other ties which
may mar the surface or edge of the cut plies. Tier stack bins (or boxes) on casters are an
excellent means for bundling and transporting cut sections without the necessity of bundle
trying. This saves tying and untying time. When complete securement and no surface or
edge marring, disarranging, or creasing can be tolerated, the sorted stack should be packed
between two plies of masonite or appropriate cardboard. Perfect quality and securement
can be had by (a) making the bundle boards slightly larger than the pattern area, and (b)
securing the sides of the board with outside latches.

The size (amount in) of a bundle and the number of different pattern sections in the bundle
is dictated individually by the production policy and the needs of the plant.

Move Ticket. This ticket would originate in the cutting department. It can be dispensed
40
with under certain production systems. It controls all the bundle tickets issued against a
cutting or spreading ticket. For example, assume a lot of 150 dozen in 6 colors, 3 sizes has
been cut on a given cutting ticket which controlled three different spreads: one of body
fabric, one of lining, the other of trimming fabric. The move ticket lists the bundles made
and the bundle ticket numbers assigned to this cutting ticket.

The Move Ticket should contain the following information: (a) the cutting ticket
number (and spreading ticket numbers), (b) the listing of bundle ticket numbers assigned,

(c) the move ticket number, (d) the amount, color, size of each bundle, (e) the date the
move ticket was compiled, (f) the cutting order number, (g) the style name or number, and
(h) the completion date for the move ticket.

41
 A move ticket does not necessarily have to draw against only one cutting ticket.
Two or more cutting tickets may furnish bundles for one move ticket, but the style should
be alike for all bundles. A move ticket should actually be a style or job order control device.
If it is a job order control device it may list more than one style when the production system
and sequence are alike for the style listed on the move ticket. It is inadvisable to use a move
ticket to control styles made in different production systems and/or sequences.

A job order form should be used in such cases. The job order would control two or
more move tickets. Job order forms should contain the following information: (a) the job
order number, (b) the date the job order was made, (c) the date the job order is required for
delivery, and (d) the listing of move tickets against this job order. Each of these move ticket
listings should give the style name or number of each move ticket, the move ticket number,
the cutting number of the move ticket, the total number of bundles on each move ticket,
the total amount per size and color, the grand total per move ticket, customer’s name (or
code name or number) for when this order was made, the sales order number(s) against
which this job order was made.

The distribution of a move ticket will vary with the production system used. A firm
using five major factory departments, such as production control, cutting, sewing, packing
and shipping, may have five copies of the move ticket, with a copy going to each of the
five departments. The same could apply to a job order form distribution.

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Sorting, bundling and moving summary

Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment

component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts
and pockets that are to be attached. Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts.
Some firms operate with a standard bundle size, while other firms vary bundle sizes
according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the
operation that is to be completed. Some firms use a dozen or multiples of a dozen because
their sales are in dozens. Bundles are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are
matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.
Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room and given to the operator
scheduled to complete the operation. One operator is expected to perform the same
operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside
until it is picked up and moved to the next operation.
The various steps involved in sorting, bundling and moving of bundles as follows,
Step 1
The number of garment pieces in a bundle is determined by style of garment and the
bundle contain all the information as discussed above.
1. Bundle number
2. Order number
3. Lot number
4. Number of pieces in the bundle
5. P a r t o f t h e g a r m e n t
6. S i z e
7. C o l o r
8. Signature of the cutting room supervisor under whom the
order is executed.

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Step 2
Additionally the bundle tickets are recorded in the registers of the company for
future reference.

Here, a record of: The roll of the fabric from which the pieces have been cut, the
date of order references from the in-house merchandiser etc. are also kept besides the
previous details

Step 3

. On the basis of this bundle ticket information, after getting the bundles from the
cutting room, through the in-house merchandiser, the supervisors in the sewing room
record the same information in their registers (along with information like time of receiving
the bundles of garment parts)

Step 4

The bundles are distributed to the loading operators in the line. By this way, even if
a certain garment piece is lost mid-way, it can be tracked down easily.
RFID Techniques
The textile industry and fashion garment in particular have proven to be an early
adopter of RFID. The reasons for this are obvious: RFID is revolutionizing all aspects of
fashion logistics, from manufacturing through distribution and retail, based on simple and
effective item level identification of textiles and garment. The proven benefits of RFID
have convinced global leaders like DHL Fashion and Marks & Spencer to adopt this
technology to improve all aspects of fashion logistics. The impact on the business sale
cycle was nothing short of remarkable – time for stock-taking was reduced more than
ten-fold, the accuracy of on-shelve replenishment improved beyond recognition, and
retail sales at stores employing RFID increased by more than 10% compared to other
stores.

45
What is RFID?
RFID stands for Radio Frequency Identification Device. It is an automatic
identification technology whereby digital data encoded in an RFID tag or “Smart label”
is captured by a reader using radio waves. In simpler terms, it is similar to bar code
technology but uses radio waves to capture data from tags, rather than optically scanning
the bar codes on a label. It does not require the tag or label to be seen to read its stored
data. It is one of the key characteristics of RFID system.
RFID is a wireless communication technology that is used in physical markers
(RFID tags) to mark products, as well as in bar codes technology. This technology has
been in use for more than 50 years. It was devised during the Second World War when
radio frequency transponders were first installed on aircraft in order to identify the planes
and state whether they were friendly or not. In the 70s, RFID tracking technology was
implemented in the US Nuclear Weapons Laboratory at Los Alamos, and in early 80s
initial applications were used to identify cattle and to track railway cars.

How RFID works?

RFID systems consist of three basic components: a tag (also called a transponder),
an interrogator (a reader or a read/write device) and a controller (a host). RFID tags
consist of an integrated circuit (IC) attached to an antenna, ie, typically a small coil of
wires covered with some protective packaging (like a plastic card) as determined by the
application requirements. Data is stored in the IC and transmitted through the antenna to
a reader. RFID tags are either “Passive” (no battery) or “Active” (self-powered by a
battery). Tags also can be read-only. (ie, stored data can be read but not changed) or
read/write (stored data can be altered or rewritten), or a combination, in which some data
is permanently stored while other memory is left accessible for later encoding and
updates.

46
 A reader is basically a Radio Frequency (RF) transmitter and receiver, controlled
by a microprocessor or digital signal processor. The reader captures the data from tags
with help of antenna, and then transfers the data to computer for processing. Readers can
be affixed in a stationary position (for example, beside a conveyor belt in a factory or
dock doors in a warehouse), portable (integrated into a mobile computer that also might
be used for scanning bar codes), or even embedded in electronic equipment such as print-
on-demand label printers. The reader in turn sends the data to the processor and
determines the actions to be performed. Once the process is over, the processor sends an
acknowledgment signal to the tag stating the completion of the operation. The working
block diagram of RFID system is as shown in the Figure.
RFID FEATURES IN APPAREL PRODUCTION
• Live Information
• Efficiency Report
• Lost time control
• WIP Tracking and control
• Sets standard time
• Production line balancing
• Automatic bundle tracking
• Piece rate summary
• Line Profit and Loss

47
 • Attendance and Payroll
• Quality control
• Warnings for bottleneck areas
• Analysis of overtime
• Order control

Example of RFID application

RFID technology can be used to build systems aimed at automatic identification of

tagged objects. In production commerce plants in the textile sector it will enable strict
control over both production and storage/sale processes. The best thing about RFID
technology is that it is functional, with no need to ‘see’ the tag by the interrogator. Unlike
bar codes technology, RFID can be much more effective in the process of production and
storage of certain objects.
The scheme below shows how RFID technology could be adapted in a fabric
production/storage/sale textile factory. Hypothetically, there is a production unit with
stock-rooms and wholesale units in the factory. Let’s concentrate on the description of the
final production stage (picture 5 (2)),i.e. quality control sector, where fabrics are prepared
for ready use in rolls and are labelled with RFID tags. When the proper amount of rolls is
ready, they are sent to factory wholesalers. The rolls are loaded on vans in small quantities
(picture 5 (5)) by fork trucks which take them from the production stockroom (picture 5
(3)). The rolls leaving the stock-room can be controlled by RFID stationary interrogators
through their antennas set in the pikes in the stock-room door (picture 5 (4)). When the
truck with fabrics crosses the RFID pike, data from labels on the rolls is automatically read
and sent to the IT system, which prepares stock documents, for instance, MM or WZ. In
comparison, when the rolls of fabric are labeled with bar codes, every single label has to
be scanned by a stock-room worker operating a bar code reader, and thus the operation
lasts much longer than with RFID technology.

48
 RFID pikes placed at stock-room exits prevent the unauthorized distribution of
tagged rolls, i.e. constitute theft protection. Such a combination of RFID pikes can be set
in factory wholesalers (picture 5 (7,9)) such that all the stock-room operations on fabrics
can be automatically monitored. In addition, portable RFID interrogators (picture 5 (8))
can be used during periodic stock-takings; making cataloguing much more effective.

49
 Unit 3

Production System
Most of the production systems employed in clothing factories are derived
from the following manual or mechanical systems. Each production system has its
own specific operational characteristics in terms of:
Supervision
Labour
Quality Control
Productivity
Throughput time
Layout

These factors are examined in this chapter

Manual Systems
Individual System/Make Through/Whole Garment system
This is essentially the traditional method of production whereby the entire garment
is assembled by one operator. In men’s bespoke wear, it is not uncommon for a
tailor to perform nearly every operation required to make the garment, including
machining, hand work and pressing.
With this production system the operator would be given a bundle of cut work and
would proceed to sew it according to his or her own method of work. Of necessity,
the labour required by this system must be highly skilled and versatile, a
combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and increasing expensive. The
characteristics of the making through system are:

Supervision: The requirements are minimal because the operators decide on

their own working methods. At the most a supervisor would provide bundles
of work together with some explanation, and then remove the finished work

50
 when ready.
Labour: As highly skilled labour is used for the simplest of operations,
costs are relatively high when compared with other systems.
Quality Control: Obviously this is necessary, but not at the same level as
required for garments, produced by semi-skilled or unskilled labour.
Productivity: Due to the lack of specialization, this system is not
conducive to high levels of productivity.
Throughput time: This is reduced to a minimum because there is no real
necessity for reserves of work except for that actually being sewn by the
operator.
Layout: A convenient arrangement of machinery etc, is all that is required.

This type of system is effective when a very large variety of garments have to be
produced in extremely small quantities. A typical application would be in the
sewing room of a boutique, which produces its own merchandise.

WHOLE GARMENT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

There are two types of Whole Garment Production Systems (1) complete
whole garment and (2) departmental whole garment. In the whole garment system
one individual makes the entire garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and
pressing the garment. The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes
the final operation. This type of system is used in few places, which are engaged in
custom-whole sale,. They are normally high priced and exclusively made for a
particular customer. They are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10
– 20 garments are made.
The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom
wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or better dress manufacturers. In

51
the departmental whole garment system one individual does all the work with the
equipment allocated to a department. For example on person does all the cutting work
in cutting department, second person does all the sewing work in sewing department,
third person does the pressing and packing work. The workers in this system may
use more than one equipment to complete his/her job.

INDIVIDUAL SYSTEM Advantages

1. This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments have
to be produced in extremely small quantities.

2. In Individual piece rate system the operators will do with full

involvement. To finish more pieces, to earn more money.
3. Operator will be specialized in his own working area.

4. As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operator
will try to finishes the complicated operation also without any difficulties.
5. The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to
one operator and so the amount as inventory is reduced.

Disadvantages
1. Highly skilled labors are used, so the cost of labors is high.
2. The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished
rather than the quality of work.
3. Productivity is less due to lack of specialization.
4. For long run / Bulk Quantity of same style is not effective in this system.

Progressive bundle system – BATCH SYSTEM

This system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the
garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-
assembly and main assembly operations in bundle form. The principles of this
52
 system are:
The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence,
with each section having a layout according to the sequence of operations
required to produce a particular component. For example, the sleeve section
could contain the following sequence of operations:
1. sew seam
2. press seam
3. blind-stitch hem etc.
The amount of machinery for each operation would be determined by the
output required.
A work store is positioned at the start and end of every section of these buffers
are used to store work received from a preceding operation, and to
hold work completed by that section.
Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not directly dependent
on the preceding section, but can absorb slight variations in output via the
stocks held within the section.
The major feature if this system is:

Supervision: This is not just involved in ensuring the correct movement of

work between sections, but is concerned with the movement and balance of
work within the section.
Labour: This can be various skill and cost levels because the more
complex operations are broken down into a series of small and relatively
simple operations.
Quality: In-process quality control is now involved i n inspecting
i n d i v i d u a l operations rather than completed components.
Productivity: Due to the breakdown of operations and the possibility
of introducing speciality machines, productivity is relative higher than that
of more other systems.
Throughput Time: This is considerably increased due to the amount of

53
 work stored at the beginning and end of each section.
Layout: This is particularly important because the end of one section must
be positioned adjacent to the start of the section, which performs the
following series of operations.

The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat cumbersome in

operation and requiring large quantities of work in progress, is probably one of the
most stable systems as regards output. Unless there is serious absenteeism or
prolonged special machine breakdowns, most of the usual hold-ups can be
absorbed because of the amounts of work in progress.
Balancing and the changeover to new styles is also somewhat simplified, due to
the amounts of work held in reverse. When properly managed the progressive bundle
system is versatile and efficient. Figure 15.2 shows a typical layout and work-flow
for this system.

BATCH SYSTEM
Advantages

1. Labors of all levels i.e. unskilled, skilled, semi skilled labors are involved
in this system where the operations are broken into small simple operation.
Hence the cost of labor is very cheap.
2. Here the quantity of each component are checked during the
individual operation itself, so the quality is good.
3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next
operation, so there is less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up,
shade variation, size variation etc.
4. Specialization and rythem of operation increases productivity.

1. As the WIP is high in this system – This is stable system. Because of

54
 the buffer, the breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can
be easily managed.

6. An effective production control system and Quality control system can

be implemented.
a. Time study, method study
techniques. b. Operator training
programme.
c. Use of material handling equipments, such as centre table, chute,
conveyor, trolley, bins etc.
7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems
becomes easy.
Disadvantages

1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by

effective supervisor.
2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed.

3. Proper planning requires for each batch and for each style, which takes
lot of time.
4. Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality, less production
etc.
5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost.

6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system

effective i.e. smooth flow of material.
7. Variety of styles, less quantity is not effective in this system.

8. Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance

the line effectively.

55
Straight-line or ‘synchro’ system

As its name suggests, this system is based on a synchronized flow of work

through each stage of producing a garment. Time-synchronization is the most
important factor of this system because the flow of work cannot be synchronized
if there are considerable variations in the standard times allowed for all the
operations performed on the line. For example, if one operation has a value of 1.5
minutesm then all the other operations in the line must have the same, or a very
close, value. The manipulation required to balance the standard time for each
operator can sometimes lead to illogical combinations of whole or part operations
which are not always conducive to the overall efficiency of individual operators.

The synchro system by its very nature is rigid and particularly vulnerable to
absenteeism and machine breakdowns. At all times reserve operators and machines
must be available to fill the gaps. In addition, this system requires a sufficient
volume of the same type of garment to keep the line in continuous operation.

The basic feature of this system are:

Supervision: Due to its rigidity, supervisors are very much concerned with
keeping the line in balance at all times. Every minor delay could have serious
repercussions.
Labour: The operators require relatively high skill levels due to the
combination of different operations which sometimes have to be performed in
order to maintain a time balance between the operations in the line.
Quality: In-process quality control must be more alert and intensive because
hol-ups caused through quality problems can stop the line in a matter of minutes.
Productivity: All things being equal, productivity levels can be very high due
to the regular pace of the successive operations.
Throughput Time: This is very short as a result of the quantity of work in

56
process. There are no intermediate work stores other than the bundles
awaiting the next operation.
Layout: The simplest layout is the straight-line system when one operator is
seated behind or opposite the next one. Work can be fed from one operator to
the other by gravity chutes or by simply pushing bundle to work in the right
direction along the bench. (Fig 15.3)

To be effective, this system requires:

Volume production
Accurate line balancing
Skilled supervision
Reserve operators
Reserve machinery and equipment

57
58
Unit production system (UPS)

As a mechanical system this has been in use for many years, but a major advance was
made in 1983 when computers were first used to plan, control and direct the flow of
work through the system.
The essential feature of this type of system is:

1. The unit of production is a single garment and not bundles.

2. The garment components are automatically transported from work station to

work station according to a pre-determined sequence.
3. The work stations are so constructed that the components are presented as close
as possible to the operator’s left hand in order to reduce the amount of
movement required to grasp and position and component to be sewn.

The operational principles are as follows:

All the components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a work station
specially designed for this purpose. The carrier itself is divided into sections, with
each section having a quick-release clamp which prevents the components from
falling out during movement through the system. When a batch of garments has been
loaded into carriers they are fed past a mechanical or electronic device which records the
number of the carrier and addresses it to its first destination. Some of the more
intelligent systems address the carriers with all the destinations they will have to pass
through to completion.

59
The loaded carriers are then fed on to the main powered line, which continually
circulates between the rows of machines. This main, or head, line is connected to each
work station by junctions which open automatically if the work on a carrier is
addressed to that particular station. The carrier is directed to the left side of the operator
and waits its turn along with the other carriers in the station. (Fig. 15.5)

When the operator has completed work on one carrier, a push button at the side of the
sewing machine is pressed and this actuates a mechanism, which transports the carrier
back to the main line. As one carrier leaves the station, another is automatically fed in
to take its place. When the carrier leaves the station it is recorded on the data collection
system, and then addressed to its next destination.
The marked advantages of this type of system are:

Bundle handling on the part of the operator is completely eliminated

The time involved in the pick-up of work and its disposal is reduced to the
minimum possible.
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 Output is automatically recorded, thus eliminating the necessity for the
operator to register work.

The computerized systems automatically balance the work between

stations performing the same operation.
Up to 40 styles can be produces simultaneously on one system.

Supervision: Freed to work with the operators.

Labour: All grades and all rates.
Quality control: In-process inspection stations are built into the line and
the inspector is able to return faulty work via the system to the
operator concerned.
Throughput line: This is measured in hours instead of days because of
the low amounts of work in hand.
Productivity: High because the operators are working in a
‘paced’ environment which enables them to develop faster working rhythms.
Layout: Can be of any form suitable to the available area.
Unit Production System requires substantial investments, which are not always
justified by conventional pay-back calculations. Apart from the measurable tangible
benefits, UPS also have many intangible benefits such as a more orderly and
controlled flow of work, and the ability via the control computer of simulating the
production situation some time in advance. These intangibles are difficult to
measure, but in themselves make a very positive contribution to the overall viability
of the unit. All things considered, unit production systems have major advantages
over all the other manual and the mechanical systems used for the mass
production of clothing.
Most importantly, they provide a clothing factory with the capability to respond
61
 quickly to any changes, which might occur. In the fast moving fashion business, this
is essential.
UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM
Advantages

1. Bundle handling completely eliminated.

2. The time involved in the pick up and disposal is reduced to minimum.
3. Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the work.
4. The computerized systems automatically balance the work between stations.
5. Upto 40 styles can be produces simultaneously on one system.

Disadvantages

1. Unit production system requires high investments.

2. The pay back period of the investment takes long time.
3. Proper planning requires to be effective.

Quick response sewing system

This system was first developed in Japan to enable quick responses to be made to market
changes, especially when orders for individual styles were in small lots. Each work
station is equipped with two or four machines and the operator will take the garment
through the required operations, including pressing, before it is transported to the next
work station.

62
Some of the basic machinery is duplicated in different stations and if there is a bottle-
neck in one section the over-load is automatically transported to other stations where
operator capacity is available.
All the parts of one garment are loaded into a hanging clamp attached to the trolley and
in theory, there should only be one garment at each work station. Work is transported
by a computer controlled, overhead trolley system and each station has an individual
controller which provides the operator with information on the style being worked
on. This information comes from an information card which accompanies each trolley.
A less sophisticated version of QRS uses a wheeled trolley which contains the
components for one garment and is pushed along the floor from operator to operator.
Another feature of QRS is that all the operators work in a standing position so that
they can move quickly from one machine to another within their own work station.
Machine heights are adjusted accordingly and touch-pads and knee-pads controls are
used instead of conventional foot pedals.
Supervision: Freed to work with the operators
Labour: Of necessity the operators must be highly skilled in the operation of all
the different machines in one work station.
Quality: In-process inspection stations are built into the line and the inspector is
able to return faulty work via the system to the operator concerned.

63
 Productivity: This is very high because the operator handles the garment once
only for a number of operations, instead of once for each operation.
Throughput time: As there are so few garments on the line throughput time
is extremely short, which is the objective of this system.
Layout: A typical unit would have eight work stations arranges around the
transport system.

There is no doubt that this type of system is one of the best answers to the garment
production revolution which is becoming more apparent every day. Fashion changes
are becoming more frequent and as a consequence order lots are proportionately
smaller. A production system which enables changeovers to be made in the minimum
of time is ideally suited to this new and dynamic situation.

Individual Part System:

In this individual incentive systems (piecework) sewing machine operators, finishers

and presses are paid on the piecework rate. That is, they are paid a set amount for
each operation that they complete, rather than by the hour. Rates vary with the
difficulty of operation. As proof of work completed, the operator signs the
identification ticket or removes one segment of it. Actually, most companies pay a
guaranteed wage, with piecework acting as an incentive for operators to work faster and
therefore earn more. Advantages of individual part system:
The worker / the operators will do with full involvement to finish more pieces,.
Operator will be specialized on his own working area
As the pay is also made based on the complication of the operation, the operator
will try to finishes the complicated operation also
Disadvantages of individual part production system:
The operator is more concerned on the no. of pieces finished rather than the quality
of work.
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Operation Breakdown

The work in each style is broken down into operations. An operation is one of the
processes that must be completed in converting materials into finished garments.

An Operation Breakdown is a sequential list of all operations involved in assembling a

garment, component, or style.

The operation breakdown is used to cost garments and establish the work flow for each
style.

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