4 point system:

The 4-point system is a widely used fabric inspection method in the textile industry. It is a simple & effective way to
classify the defect during inspection.This system assigns points to fabric defects based on their size and
significance.
➢ The fabric is inspected over a 100-square-yard length.
➢ Each defect is recorded, points are assigned based on the size of each defect.
➢ If the total defect points in a 100-square-yard fabric are 40 or above, the fabric is considered rejected.
➢ Considering price and quality, the acceptance level of defect points over 40 can be determined through an
agreement between the buyer and the seller.

Calculation:
Length of defects in fabric( both warp & weft) Distribution of points
In the 4 point system, fabric quality
Defects up to 3 inch 1 is evaluated by unit points/100 sq.
Defects from 3-6 inch 2 yds.
Defects from 6-9 inch 3 Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total
Defects of more than 9 inch 4 points in roll * 36 * 100)/ (Fabric
length in yards * Fabric width in
The volume of Holes and Openings Distribution of points inches)
*1 yard = 36 inch
1 inch or less 2
Over 1 inch 4

Fabric consumption:
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. How much fabric is required to
produce a garment, we can determine it through marker planning and mathematical systems. Fabric consumption is
an important factor in garments merchandising. The profit of the order mostly depends on it. As a result, fabric
consumption should be done accurately after receiving the order. Fabric is the most important part of garment and it
represents around 60% of total product manufacturing cost. Fabric cost of a product depends how much fabric is
consumed to make the garment including cut wastes and end bits.
In the garment industry, knit and sweater garments, consumption is calculated in kg and for woven garments
consumption is calculated in yards.

Consumption for Basic Shirt/ Blazer/ Jacket:

Fabric = [[{(Back length + Sleeve length)* (½ Chest)} * 2] / (Fabric width * 36)] + 5% yds/pc (yard per piece)

The measurements must be taken in inches. In each actual measurement add 1 inch as sewing allowance & then
insert into formula. For example- if 1⁄2 chest is 16”, then insert 16”+1”=17” into the formula for better adjustment.
The number at the end is the total process wastage we have to consider for samples & rejections.
Example:
As an example, if we take a shirt of size of XL-17” neck size:
Neck = 17”; Back length = 32.5”+1”= 33.5”; Sleeve length = 26”+1”= 27”; Chest = 49/2” = 24.5”+1” = 25.5”
Fabric cutting width= 56 inch
So, Fabric consumption = [{(33.5+27)×(25.5×2)} ÷ (56×36)] + 5% yds/pc
=1.61 yds/pc
Consumption for Basic T-Shirt/ Polo/ Hoodie:

Fabric = [{(Back length + Sleeve length)* (½ Chest) * 2* GSM} / 10000000] + 10% kg/pc

The measurements must be taken in cm. In each actual measurement add 2 cm as sewing allowance then insert
into the formula. The number at the end is the total process wastage we have to consider for samples, rejections,
cutting wastage & our assumptions.
Example:
As an example, if we take a t-shirt of size of XXL-17.5” / 44.5 cm neck size:
Back length/ Length = (85.1+2) cm = 87.1 cm; Sleeve length = (68.6+2) cm = 70.6 cm; 1⁄2 chest = 129.5/2 = 64.75+2
cm = 66.75 cm; GSM=140
So, fabric consumption = [{(87.1+70.6)×(2×66.75×140)} ÷ 10000000] + 10%
=0.32 kg/pc

Consumption for Woven Basic Trouser/ Denim Trouser:

Fabric = [{(½ waist * Front rise * 2) + (½ thigh * Inseam * 4)} / (Fabric width* 36)] + 5% yds/pc

The measurements must be taken in inches. In each actual measurement add (1/2/3/3.5/4 )” as sewing allowance.
1” is more convenient.
Example:
As an example, if we take a 36 inch waist size pant,
½ Waist = 36/2 = 18+1 = 19”; Front rise = 11+1 = 12”; ½ Thigh = 28/2 = 14+1 = 15”; Inseam = 32+1 = 33”
Fabric width = 59”
So, Fabric Consumption = [{(19×12×2) + (15×33×4)} ÷ (59×36)] + 5%
= 1.20 yds/pc

Consumption for Woven Knit Trouser/ Leggings/Joggers:

Fabric = [{(½ waist * Front rise * 2) + (½ thigh * Inseam * 4) * GSM} / 10000000] + 10% kg/pc

The measurements must be taken in cm. In each actual measurement add (2-6 cm) sewing allowance. 2 cm is more
convenient.

Part by part consumption:

Divide the garments into smaller parts as per convenience. Ex: For a basic shirt collar, yoke, body, sleeve, cuff etc.
For part 1 = (Length × width × no of layer) / (36× Fabric width) yds/pc
Total fabric = (1+2+3+4+5.....) + 3% yds/pc.
For part 2 = (Length × width × no of layer× GSM) / 10000000 kg/pc
Total fabric = (1+2+3+4+5.....) + 6% kg/pc.

Garments costing:
Garments costing refers to the process of determining the total cost of producing a garment, which includes various
elements that contribute to the final price. This process is crucial for manufacturers and retailers to set appropriate
pricing, ensure profitability, and maintain competitive advantage.
Garments costing system: ● Body fabric cost $17.68/Doz
Cost of fabrics: The primary cost component, calculated based on ● Washing cost $2 /Doz
the fabric consumption per garment and the cost per unit. ● Collar & cuff cost $3.47/Doz
Cost of trims & accessories: Costs of buttons, zippers, threads, ● CM $4.56/Doz
labels, tags, and other accessories. ● Accessories cost $3.00/Doz
CM charge: Determine the time required for each production process Production cost $30.58/Doz
and calculate labor costs based on wage rates. ● Profit $1.23 /Doz
Cost of washing, printing, embroidery, testing[fabric, garments] ● Overhead cost $1.15/Doz
Overhead cost: Factory rent, utilities, equipment maintenance, and Total FOB $33.67 /Doz
administrative expenses. ● Freight $1.95 /Doz
Cost of transportation: From factory to freight point(FOB/C&F). Total CF $35.56 /Doz
Profit/ Commission: Desired profit added to the total cost. ● Insurance cost $0.8 /Doz
Total CIF $36.34/Doz
Factors considered in Garments Costing:
Here are the key components typically considered in garments costing:

1. Quality Level
Quality Level refers to the standards of workmanship and materials specified by the buyer. It significantly impacts
the cost calculation.
High Quality requires better raw materials, skilled labor & strict quality control which leads to higher costs. Average
Quality uses standard materials and average workmanship with less strict quality control, resulting in lower costs.
Example: A luxury brand shirt will cost more due to premium fabric, fine stitching, and detailed craftsmanship
compared to a basic brand shirt with standard fabric and stitching.

2. Product Style
Product Style refers to the design and production complexity of a garment.
Simple designs with fewer components, requiring less time & resources, resulting in lower costs. Complex designs
with detailed embroidery or advanced tailoring, requiring more time, skilled labor and resources, leading to higher
costs.
Example: A basic T-shirt with a simple cut and sew process will have a lower CM compared to a jacket with
multiple pockets, zippers, and lining.

3. Availability of Materials
Easily available and less expensive materials leading to lower production costs. Special Materials such as rare or
custom-ordered fabrics and accessories often have higher costs and longer lead times, which increase the overall
garment cost.
Example: Regular cotton fabric is cheaper and more available compared to organic, fair-trade cotton, which may
require special orders and thus increase the product cost.

4. Lead Time Provided

Lead Time is the duration between the order placement and the delivery of the finished goods.
Regular Lead Time refers to Standard production and delivery schedules, allowing for optimal resource allocation
and cost management. If the buyer wants express delivery then it shortens lead times and requires advanced
production processes. This often leads to increased labor costs (such as overtime pay), rushed logistics, and
possibly higher material costs.
 Example: A standard production timeline for a batch of jeans might be six weeks, but if a buyer requires them in
three weeks, additional costs for overtime and advanced shipping will increase the overall cost.

5. Quality of Life
Quality of Life refers to the durability of the product and the cost of labor in the specific area.
Longer lifespan designs need higher quality materials and advanced construction, which increase the overall cost.
Higher labor costs in regions with a higher standard of living result in higher manufacturing costs.
Example: Manufacturing in a country with high labor costs, such as Norway, will increase the CM compared to
manufacturing in a country with lower labor costs, such as Vietnam. A premium winter coat designed to last for
many years will use high-quality materials and detailed construction techniques, increasing the CM.

Factors considered in Thread Consumption:

Thread consumption in the garment industry refers to the amount of thread required to sew a garment. Accurately
estimating thread consumption is crucial for cost calculation, inventory management, and ensuring the quality of the
finished product. Here are the key factors considered in thread consumption:

1. Thickness of fabrics: If fabric thickness is higher, then sewing thread needs more to sew the apparel. So,
Fabric thickness is proportional to the amount of sewing thread.
2. Plies of fabrics to be sewn: The number of fabric layers (plies) being sewn together impacts thread usage.
More plies mean more thread is needed to sew through all layers. Otherwise, the thread will be in shortage
during garments manufacturing.
3. Stitch type: Different stitches consume different amounts of thread. For example,101-chain stitches typically
use more thread than 301-lock stitches. Knowing the specific stitch types used in garment construction is
essential for accurate thread estimation.
4. Stitch density: Higher stitch density (more stitches per inch) increases thread consumption. Conversely, lower
stitch density reduces the amount of thread needed.
5. Width of the seam: Wider seams require more thread to cover the additional width.
6. Garment size: Larger garments naturally require more thread due to the increased seam length and overall
fabric area. Garment size significantly affects total thread consumption
7. Design of the apparel: Complex designs with more seams, decorative stitching, or embellishments require
more thread.
8. Automatic thread trimmer of that machine: Machines with automatic thread trimmers can reduce thread
waste by cutting excess thread efficiently. So, it should be kept in mind during thread consumption.
9. Skill of the operator: Skilled operators tend to minimize thread waste through efficient sewing techniques and
proper machine handling, leading to more accurate thread usage.
10. Quality of thread: High-quality threads are less likely to break, reducing waste and ensuring smooth sewing
operations. So, it’s a mandatory duty for a garment merchandiser to ensure the right quality sewing thread
before buying it.

Inspection loop:
To do success in inspection, the process can be run by maintaining the following “inspection loop”.

1. Inspection
2. Identify the defects or faults
3. Knock the appropriate person
4. Identify the reasons of defects or faults
5. Remove the defects or faults.