ROCKPORT—Bearskin Neck is different than your typical seaside town’s main drag.
The absence
of chain restaurants, big time apparel stores, and street carts is noticeable. The biggest
giveaway, however, is that depending on the day of the week, the weather, or the number of
people out, the tiny family-owned businesses may close early, open late, or not open at all.
Very few places have set hours posted anywhere.
That’s just part of the street’s charm. The former fishing outpost is now one of the North
Shore’s top destinations, having retained all of its whimsical quaintness through the years, and
boasting some of the friendliest people imaginable. The buildings themselves are antiques,
often dating back more than a century, and are often so cramped they can only fit a few visitors
in at a time. Restaurants, galleries, gift shops, inns, and cafes are packed into nearly every
square foot of prime ocean-side space along “The Neck” as its called, which is perhaps most
famous for “Motif No. 1,” a red shack sitting amongst sailboats that is said to be one of the
most photographed structures in the world.
“Every year you have to use right here,” Hoi Luong, whose family owns China Gifts
International (23 Bearskin Neck, Rockport, 978-546-3720) (need to double check) says as she
points at her head when asked about making the most of her very small space. “A lot of people
come every year from out of state. I know them, I love when they come in.” The 1979 store is
piled literally to the ceiling with chatchkes. T shirts hang down like giant leaves you have to
wade through to look at other items like mugs, oven mitts, and signs.
For a bit more breathing room, take a trip to the Bearskin Neck Country Store (cq) (40 Bearskin
Neck (cq), Rockport, 978-546-3620) (cq). Dating back 65 years, this nostalgic general store has a
bit of everything, but the main draw is a selection of more than 150 candies, including many
hard-to-find retro varieties. A 1913 player piano draws visitors in from the busy street. “We sell
what no one else has,” says Ken Demaine (cq), who co-owns the store with his wife, Barbie (cq)
(really!). “70-80% of the business comes in July and August but the season has already started
for us,” he adds.
If you’re hungry, head to Roy Moore Lobster Co. (39 Bearskin Neck, Rockport, 978-546-6696)
(cq). Nestled in an 1800s fisherman’s shack, this place has been serving seafood since 1918. The
menu is limited to a few items but everything is fresh, locally caught, and expertly prepared. A
tray of smoked salmon with tartar sauce is heavy on great flavors and homemade fish cakes and
shrimp cocktail are both authentic and delicious, but the lobster, boiled in sea water, is the real
standout. Rockport’s signature crustacean is best enjoyed out back, on Roy Moore’s outdoor
deck. The no-frills approach is working, as co owner Ken Porter says on a good day he’ll sell up
to 800 lobsters. “It’s all about quality, reasonable prices, and good service,” Porter says, “and
people come here for the event as much as the food.”
For dessert, the Fudgery (4 Tuna Wharf, Rockport, 978-546-2030, www.rockportfudgery.com)
(cq) has fudge, saltwater taffy, and famous elephant ears. The shop was prominently featured
in 2009’s The Proposal. The Bearskin Neck area is loaded with ice cream options, but the for a
quaint seaside experience, venture to The Ice Cream Store (14 Bearskin Neck, Rockport) (cq)
Located in a converted summer cottage, this tiny parlor has a great view of the ocean and
doesn’t let its size stop it from serving serious portions.
The Neck boasts a plethora of art galleries, which offer a diverse selection of quality pieces.
According to Porter, artists began moving in around the Great Depression and the community
has thrived ever since, with local shops offering everything from friendship bracelets and hand
made jewelry to canvas paintings and paper art. “There’s a lot of competition around here but I
don’t worry about it,” says Mary Kay Carbone, a nurse who sells hand stamped pottery out of
her gallery, Four Winds Pottery (16 Tuna Wharf, Rockport, 978-546-8946) (need to double
check). “Everyone does something different.”
Of course, having so many businesses crammed into such a small area does breed some friendly
competition. “Rockport has a lot of small town drama, but we’re all a big family for the most
part,” says Cady Whitley (cq), a local high school student who works at Shore Thing (41
Bearskin Neck, Rockport, 978-546-7705) (cq). “Everyone from the high school works here. If
you don’t have a job at Bearskin Neck people are like ‘what do you do?’”
Whitley described the Neck as “the place to be,” and it’s hard to dispute that. The view from
the top of the Neck alone makes it a worthwhile trip and a great way to cap off a day of
shopping and exploring.
“Rockport’s so beautiful, it’s very unique,” says Porter, the co owner of Roy Moore Lobster Co.,
the sunrise, sunset, it’s just perfect.”
