AE-309 / AM-II
Tinting & Overdyeing in Apparel
Definition:
After denim pant is being faded, the pants have dyed with very light color (0.001%
or 0.002% yellow or pink). This dyeing process is called Tinting and Over dyeing.
This process is applied only on garments, not in fabric or yarn. Tinting of denim
garment is usually done after the stone wash process. A very small amount of dye
is used in tinting. The process changes the hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as the
tinting color covers up the indigo, it reaches the level of dyeing. Tinting gives
garments a used/vintage and muddy look. Traditionally tinting is done with direct
dye or reactive dye. For tinting process direct dye is popular than reactive dye.
Fig: Tinted jeans
Tinting or over dyeing can be highlighted by the following way:
1. This type of process is done after different types of washing before
softening.
2. Normally after Acid wash, Stone wash, Stone enzyme wash, Sand Blasting,
Enzyme wash etc. tinting and over dyeing is done.
3. Tinting and over dyeing is done with direct dyes or Reactive dyes.
Sk Nazmus Saaqib
Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 1
AE-309 / AM-II
4. Due to tinting and over dyeing, the white/base area colored with required
dye yellow, Brown, Orange etc.
5. As a result, new color effect is produced in the garments.
6. If direct dye is used then color fixing treatment should be done at the end
of dying process. In case over dyeing/Tinting with reactive dyes, color
fastness is good hence no after treatment is required to fix the reactive
dyes.
Importance / Necessity of Tinting and Over Dyeing:
The reasons of tinting are-
1. For making new fashions.
2. To give the finished garments a better appearance.
3. For inventing a new process
Tinting and Over Dyeing Process by Direct Dyes:
Direct dyes are currently being applied in garment dyeing of jeans in light colors
for the higher fashion market. Direct dyes can also be used for tinting denim
fabrics by adding to finishing formulation. Tinting and over dyeing process by
direct dyes are given below:
First Step: Wet Processing
After different wet processing i.e. Acid wash, Stone wash, Enzyme wash, Stone
enzyme wash, Bleach wash take 60 kg garment for Tinting and over dyeing.
Water at L : R = 1: 7………….. 420 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature…………….. 50 – 80°c
Dir. Brown GTL – at 0.04%……….. 24 Gms.
Dir. Orange ZTL- at 0.01%……….. 6 Gms.
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Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 2
AE-309 / AM-II
Add Salt at 20 gm / liter ………… 8.40 kg.
Add Leveling agent at 0.5% /…….. 210 gm.
Time………………………….. 10 to 30 mts.
Rinse by cold water 3 minutes.
Second Step: Fixing
Batch size ………………………… 60 kg.
Water at L : R = 1: 7………….. 420 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature…………….. 50°c
Add fixing agent at 0.8 % (owf) … 480 gm.
Time…………………………………….. 10 mts.
Third Step: Softening
Batch size……………….. 60 kg.
Water at L : R = 1 : 7 ………………………. 420 Liter
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ………… 250 gm.
Add Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter …… 420 gm.
Time………………………….. 10 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Then unload the garments on trolley.
Fourth Step: Hydro extractor machine.
Hydroextractor machine is used to remove excess water from the garments.
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Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 3
AE-309 / AM-II
Fifth Step: Dryer machine
After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying machine for complete
drying.
Sixth Step: Quality and Delivery
After drying the garments go to quality checking and rectify washing fault and
then good one delivery.
Tinting and Over Dyeing Process by Reactive Dyes:
First Step: Wet Processing
After different wet processing i.e. Acid wash, Stone wash, Enzyme wash, Stone
enzyme wash, Bleach wash take 60 kg garment for Tinting and over dyeing.
Water at L : R = 1: 7…. 420 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature…………….. 60°C
Reactive Red
Reactive Yellow – Brown ……… 100 gm.
Reactive Black –
Leveling agent – at 0.5 gm / liter…….240 gm.
Salt – at 20 gm / liter……….. 8.40 kg.
Soda ash at 10 gm / liter ………… 4.20 kg.
Time………………………….. 20 to 30 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Second Step: Fixing
Sk Nazmus Saaqib
Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 4
AE-309 / AM-II
Batch size……………….. 60 kg.
Water at L: R = 1 : 8 ………….. 480 Liter
Run the Machine.
Temperature……………………………. 50°C
Add fixing agent at1 gm / liter….. 480 gm.
Time……………………………………… 10 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Third Step: Softening
Batch size……………….. 60 kg.
Water at L : R = 1: 7………….. 420 Liter
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ………… 250 gm.
Add Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter …… 420 gm.
Time………………………….. 10 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Then unload the garments on trolley
Fourth Step: Hydro extractor machine
Hydro extractor machine is used to remove excess water from the garments.
Fifth Step: Dryer machine
After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying machine for complete
drying.
Sixth Step: Quality and Delivery
Sk Nazmus Saaqib
Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 5
AE-309 / AM-II
After drying the garments go to quality checking and rectify washing fault and
then good one delivery.
Single Bath Stone Washing and Tinting Technique:
We already know that, tinting and overdyeing of denim garment is usually done
after the stone wash process. In this, garment has been lightly colored in order to
give the final denim appearance a slight shift. This is not true about over dyeing
but merely gives the impression of a change in the overall color of the fabric. This
process consumes large quantity of water and chemical. To make this process
economical and ecologically friendly, some novel color-based enzymes have been
introduced in the market. By using this new technique, tinting and stone-washing
effect can be achieved in a single bath.
The advantages of this system are:
1. Less process time to achieve a tinted look.
2. No extra chemical required, therefore, making process is more economical.
3. Less water consumption.
4. Less energy consumption.
5. The chances of patchiness or unevenness in the garment are almost zero.
Conclusion:
Tinting is a new trend in denim products. It is a new fashion. This fashion is now
very popular in general. So measure should be taken and more research work
should be done to make it better in future.
Sk Nazmus Saaqib
Asst. Professor (Fashion & Design) Page 6
