TXE- 309, Apparel Manufacturing Technology- II

Chapter-II (Cutting)
To cut out the components of a garment as per exact dimension of the patterns/marker from a fabric lay
is called fabric cutting. It is totally different from general cutting in which exact dimension is not taken
into account. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for Garments Manufacturing Technology.

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of
the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker
planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of
knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die
cutting have their self cutting accuracy.

2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be
ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and
shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.

3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces
temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric contains synthetic
fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As
because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will
increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which
will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge
formation, the following steps may be taken:

1. Reduce the height of the lay;

2. Reduce the cutting speed;

3. Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;

4. Lubricate the knife during cutting.

4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The
table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut
at a time during fabric cutting.

Methods of cutting: Fabrics cutting is done by the following three ways:

 1. Completely manual method: This type of fabric cutting is not available in garments industry. But
this type of cutting is performed for tailoring purpose, where single fabrics are cut. It is
completely a manual method of fabric cutting. It needs more for cutting.

2. Manually operated powered knife method: In this method cutting operation is done by using
knife. Here knife is placed in the head of the cutting machine. It is the most used methods in
apparel industry for cutting fabrics.

3. Computerized methods: In modern age, the use of computerized methods become popular for
perform the cutting operation. Here, all programs are loaded to the computer and it performs
all the activities which are loaded.

Garment cutting is an important task in apparel manufacturing. After laying of marker on the spreaded
fabric, cutting operation is done. Various types of instruments are used for garment cutting. The
performance of cutting depends on the sharpness of cutting equipments.

List of Cutting Equipments: A list of cutting equipments is given below.

They are –

1. Scissors

2. Straight Knife Cutting Machine

3. Band Knife Cutting Machine

4. Round Knife Cutting Machine

5. Die Knife Cutting Machine

6. Drill and Notcher

7. Computerized Knife Cutter

8. Computerized Laser Cutter

9. Computerized Water-Jet Cutter

So, when you will buy a cutting instrument, you should be aware about the properties of that’s
instruments.

Now, process flow chart of fabric cutting is given bellow:

 Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Marker placing at the top

Fabric cutting

Sorting

Numbering

100% checking and Parts replacing if needed

Bundling

Input to sewing section

In garments industry; a garments is made by assembling different parts of fabric by sewing. Different
apparel accessories also sew in sewing section. After spreading of fabric, cutting operation is performed.
This fabric cutting is done in cutting section. Incorrect cutting can make various garment faults.

Fabric cutting section is very important for next sewing section. Cut fabrics are sorted according to the
size and color of the fabrics. After sorting numbering is done and checking is performed 100% for avoid
any types of mistakes. We know that dyed fabrics vary from one lot to another although they are dyed
by same dyes. Also shade can be varying from layer to layer. So, during numbering extra care should
take. Numbering is done for avoiding the shade variation of the fabric. After that parts are separates and
make a bundle for sending it to the sewing section.

So, cutting section in charge has a great duty to do all of this according to the sequence, which is
explained in above.
 SCISSOR
It is the oldest type of instrument used for cutting
paper, thread, fabric, etc. It is generally used for
cutting single layer of fabric but for cutting
multilayer of fabrics another type of instrument
will have to be chosen. Hence for domestic and
tailoring purposes scissor is used extensively but in
the ready made garments factory it is used very
rarely. Scissors may be left handed or right handed
and the cheapest cutting instrument.

ROUND KNIFE
The cutting knife is a circular disc type component which has a very sharp edge. It rotates at about 1000
to 3000 rpm by electric power.
Features of Round Knife: The features of round knife cutting machine
are given below.
1. The blade shape of round knife machine is octagonal or circular.

2. Available blade dia is 2’’ to 8’’.

3. Round knife cutter is suitable to cut single ply.

There are some problems with the round knife machine that limit its
application in the RMG sector:

 Cutting depth up to 40% of the blade diameter;

 Cutting is not done at 90% angle (like straight knife), hence it is difficult to cut out

pattern pieces directly from the fabric lay.

 Not suitable for cutting small components from the fabric lay.

Advantages of Round Knife Machine: The advantages of round knife machine are given below.
1. Round knife is specially used to cut suit of fashion garment.

2. Round knife is used to cut roll end during mechanical fabric spreading.

Disadvantages of Round Knife Machine: The disadvantages of round knife are given below.
1. Round knife is not suitable for bulk production.

2. Round knife is not suitable to cut sharp curves.

So, round knife is not so suitable to cut all types of garment as straight knife cutter.
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
Straight knife cutter machine is important for cutting operation. It is important to know the working
principle of straight knife cutter machine.

Working Principle of Straight Knife Cutter Machine: The working principle of straight knife cutter
machine is given below. They are –
1. At first, fabric spread on the cutting table.

2. Then, marker is placed on the fabric.

3. After that, cutting machine is placed at any corner point of fabric.

4. Then, switch on the machine and continue cutting as per marker

dimension.

5. Finally, the cutting is continue until finish the marker.

So, when an operator cut the fabric he should aware about the cutting
working procedure. Because wrong cutting operation could cause huge
damage on fabric. So, be care full about the cutting operation with straight
knife cutting machine.

Straight knife cutter machine is the most used cutting instrument in apparel
cutting.

Features of Straight Knife Cutter: The features of straight knife cutter machine are given below. They
are –
 In apparel industry; more than 99% cases straight knife cutter machine is used.

 Straight knife machine is mainly used for bulk production.

 It is mainly used for both woven and knit fabric.

 It can cut maximum ply height.

 Straight knife machine is a high speed machine.

 In the case of straight knife cutter, machine is moveable but fabric is fixed.

 Straight knife cutter machine is so called because a straight knife or blade is used in the
machine.

Mechanical Elements of Straight Knife Cutter: Mechanically a straight knife cutter machine is composed
of following elements. They are –
1. A base plate, which placed on wheels for easy movement.

2. A stand.

3. Vertical blade.

4. An electric motor.
 5. Safety guard for blade.

6. Sharpening device.

So, when you will buy a straight knife cutter you have to give emphasis on the above factor.

Advantages:
 As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and maximum lay height could be cut,

used extensively in garment industries;

 Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife;

 Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay;

 Quick fabric cutting;

 Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay;

 Grinding could be done during cutting;

 Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:

 Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor;

 Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection;

 Possibility of accident is higher.

BAND KNIFE
Band knife cutter is an endless and looks like a loop. I have written about the features of band knife and
advantages and disadvantages of band knife.

Features Of Band Knife: The features of band knife machine are given below. They are –

 Band knife is endless and looks like a loop.

 Band knife is fixed but fabric is moveable.

 Saw – Mill technique is applied for fabric cutting.

 Block pieces of fabric required to cut.

 Band knife is not as popular as straight knife but it is used in

special cases.

 Knife is in band form so it is called band knife cutter machine.

Advantages:

 Very accurate cutting can be achieved;

 Suitable for smaller components cutting;

 Cutting at any angle could be done easily;

 Use of templates facilitate accurate and consistent cutting;

 Possibility of accident is lower.

 It is used specially.

Disadvantages:

 Fabric wastage is higher due to use of fabric block;

 Work load is higher;

 Not suitable for larger sized components cutting.

 It is not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.

DIE CUTTING
The main components of a die cutting machine are ram head, die, cutting blade, motor, etc. The die is
made from steel strip, as per exact size and shape of each pattern. One end of the steel strip is
sharpened and the other end is secured by tie bar. The die is placed onto the fabric lay and pressure is
applied on the die by ram head. As a result, they cut the fabric by embedding into the fabric lay.

Die cutter is special types of cutting instrument. It is generally used for leather technology. It is not
suitable to cut large parts. Sometimes, it is used for
garment cutting.

Features of Die Cutter: The features of die cutter are given

below.

1. Die cutter is specially used in leather technology. It

helps to make shoe, bag and belts.

2. Dies are necessary to make before cutting

operation.
 3. Leather or any product is cut like paper cutting technique.

Die cutter is not popular for fabric cutting as straight knife, band knife or round knife cutter. It is
specially used for making leather products.

Advantages:

 Suitable for smaller sized components cutting;

 Cutting could be done at any angle;

 Lower cutting time;

 Suitable for cutting knit fabric.

Disadvantages:

 Fabric wastage is higher;

 High labor cost;

 Not suitable for quick style change;

 Not suitable for larger size components cutting.

NOTCHER
It is a special type of cutting machine and used for special purpose. Some components of garments need
identification or mark at the side of the pattern to facilitate easy positioning and attachment of other
components. This marking is called ‘notch mark’ and the common notch mark is ‘U’,‘V’ or ‘T’ shaped.
This notch mark could be produced by straight knife but the consistency of the notch mark may not be
achieved. To avoid such problem, use of notcher is safe and quick. In the notcher machine, temperature
could be introduced to the notcher blade, hence the notch area would be temporarily heat set stopping
the risk of fraying.

Notc

Notch mark
 DRILL
Sometimes marking inside the pattern may be required. For example, pocket placement in the shirt. To
make marking inside the pattern, drill is used. In this machine, a motor, drill, spirit level, and base plate
are the main components. Spirit level ensures the drill mark at 900 angles in the fabric lay. Drill mark in
the compactly woven fabric is stable for longer time but unstable for loosely woven fabric. Heated drill
may be used for long time stability of the drill mark. Hypo-dormice drill may also be used for this
purpose. Thread marking may also be done for this purpose. Care must be taken during attachment of
components to avoid the drill mark problem.

Drill and notcher are other types of cutting instrument in apparel industry. It is specially used to mark
and cut at corner points where necessary for examples:

1. Button and button hole making.

2. Pocket placing for shirts, coats, trouser etc.

3. Notcher is used to identify folding line, seam line etc.

So, straight knife, band knife, round knife, die cutter, drill and notcher are the mechanical instrument for
fabric cutting. Every cutting instrument is essential for complete the full cutting operation.

So, select your cutting instrument as per requirement.

COMPUTERIZED STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Computerized knife cutter is a modern fabric cutting system. Various types of cutting instruments are
used for fabric cutting in garment industry.

Principles of Computerized Knife Cutter: The principles of computerized knife cutting system are given
below.

 At first, a marker is made by CAD.

 Then, fabric spreading is done by auto spreader.

 A special cutting table is used for knife cutter.

To run the computerized knife cutter machine, these have networking between CAD and CAM.

Working Procedure of Computerized Knife Cutter: The working procedures of computerized knife
cutter are given below. They are –

1. A perforated table is used for knife cutter.

 2. Under the perforated table an Air suction unit is available.

3. A beam is placed widthwise of the table which runs lengthwise.

4. Beam contents a knife which moves widthwise of the table.

5. When switch is on the cutter, then cutting start at the starting point and cutting continued until
finish the marker in CAD

Advantages:

 it is suitable for high quality cutting or large scale production;

 Very fast fabric cutting;

 Very accurate cutting;

 Cutting speed could be varied;

 Cutting knife could be rotated and moved at any angle;

 Can be connected with computerized marker making;

 Fabric is compressed by vacuum facilitates cutting;

 Cutting defect is negligible;

 No possibility of blade deflection;

 Blade sharpening is attached;

 Possibility of accident is lower;

 No need of marker;

 Lower labor cost;

 6 to 8 times faster cutting.

Disadvantages:

 Initial investment cost is very high;

 Maintenance cost is also very high;

 Skilled operator is needed.

So, computerized knife cutter is essential for modern cutting operation. If anyone wants to get high
production, he should set up a computerized knife cutter for fabric cutting.
 CUTTING BY WATER-JET
Water jet cutter is a modern cutting instrument. It is run by a computerized system.
Special software is used for doing this cutting. Laser cutter and water jet cutter both are
operated by computer.

A very fine water-jet is passed through a nozzle at a very high speed to cut the fabric lay.
Water pressure kept is about 60,000 psi and used to cut fabric, lather, and plastic
materials. Thickness of the lay has an influence on cutting quality. Lower the thickness of
the lay better will be the cutting quality. Water used for jet needs filtration and de-
ionization treatment. Water pressure, nozzle size, and cutting speed are inter-related to cutting quality
and speed.

Features Of Water Jet Cutter: The features of water jet cutter are given below. They are –

1. Water jet cutter is consisting of water pump and nozzle.

2. Special software used to cut wood or fabric.

3. In water jet cutter, water is used to cut wood or fabric which is controlled by computer.

4. For doing this cutting, ice table is used.

Water jet cutter is not suitable for fabric cutting but this cutter is under research to cut fabric.

Advantages:

 Comparatively higher speed of fabric cutting;

 No need of sharpening/ grinding;

 Suitable for comparatively harder materials cutting.

Disadvantages:

 Not suitable for higher depth of lay cutting;

 Wet cut edges at the pattern;

 Water spot may develop in the fabric;

 Water needs filtration and de-ionization treatment;

 Lower plies of multi-layer fabric cutting may not have sharp line;

 Needs to control sound of water jet.

 CUTTING BY LASER BEAM
In this method, light is focused to a very narrow spot by a laser and used to
cut the fabric by generative be as narrow as 0.25 mm. Inert gas is also
blown on the area to spot burning in the side area and to remove ashes
from the burnt area. In case of multi-layer fabric cutting possibility of V-
shaped cutting is higher, hence used for single layer fabric cutting. Cutting
is controlled by a computer.

Laser cutting is a computerized cutting system. Laser cutter is not suitable

for fabric cutting. It is generally used for special purpose. It is not as
popular as the other fabric cutting system.

Features of Laser Cutter: The features of laser cutter are given below.

1. Laser cutter is specially used to cut Buttons, Logo or only plastic materials.

2. Special software is used to cut these.

3. Laser ray is used to cut these which are controlled by computer.

Laser cutting is a computer controlled cutting system. For this reason, experienced personnel are
required to run this job.

Advantages:

 Very fast cutting speed (about 13 meter per minute);

 Cutting at accurate line due to computer controlled cutting head;

 No need of sharpening/grinding.

Disadvantages:

 Not suitable for multi-layer fabric cutting;

 Not suitable for synthetic fiber-fabric cutting;

 Expensive method.