Dress

Olivia
80-116 cm

Free silhouette sundress. High-waisted. The upper

part of the sundress is tied on the straps,
consisting of two parts. The armhole and neckline
are trimmed. The skirt of the sundress has two
tiers with a ruffle, which are assembled. The
length of the sundress is a little above the knees
(adjustable by the length of the straps).
 Read all the Choose a
instructions pattern based
before started to Wash and iron the on
make the sewing fabric before work measurements
to avoid shrinkage and not the
If you have any age of the
of the fabric after
questions about the child.
sewing the
The kids are
project , feel free to ask product. very different
me via Etsy message
and the size of
I am always happy to the guide is
help! approximately

Tips before start

the project

Be careful Before you print You will

in our Make a sure you
choose “ACTUAL succeed!
patterns
SIZE” or “SCALING
seams 100%”so that the
allowances pattern dimensions
are included stay unaltered. Im always
Our patterns have there to
1 cm -0,4 been made to fit sizes:
inches A4 (210x297 mm)
help!

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 Size Chart
86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152
Height cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm
cm cm

12- 18- 9- 11- 12-

Size/Age 2-3y 3-4y 4-5y 5-6y 6-7y 7-8y 8-9y
18m 24m 10y 12y 13y

50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72
Chest
cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm

50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61
Waist
cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm

59. 64. 69. 74. 79.

52 54.5 57 62 67 72 77
Hips 5 5 5 5 5
cm cm cm cm cm cm cm
cm cm cm cm cm

Choose a pattern based on

measurements(Chest,waist,hips)
and not the age of the child.
The kids are very different and
the size of the guide is
approximately

3
 HOW TO MEASURE
In order for a pattern to fit well on your figure, you must take your
measurements correctly and compare them to the table measurements. Take a
soft measuring tape and take the measurements listed below. All
measurements are taken over underwear.

HEIGHT. Place the child back-to-back against a wall so that the heels, buttocks,
back and head touch the wall. Draw a horizontal line from the top of the head
to the wall with a ruler or pencil and make a mark. Measure the distance from
the floor to the mark
. CHEST CIRCUMFERENCE is measured at the most protruding points of the
shoulder blades and chest, with the tape horizontal to the floor

. WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE is measured around the narrowest part of the torso,

usually above the navel. If your baby has a tummy, the natural waistline is
easier to find from the back. A ribbon or string can be tied around the waist for
easy measurement

. THIGH CIRCUMFERENCE is measured at the most protruding points of the

buttocks, horizontal to the floor. Note that in babies, chest, waist and hip
circumferences can be almost the same. As they get older, the difference
between these parameters becomes more pronounced.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR SEWING

RECOMMENDED MATERIALS
Dress fabrics are suitable for sewing a sundress. The material should be medium
density, holding the shape, not translucent, soft and pleasant to the body. By
composition - cotton, linen, viscose, tencel and blended options. Recommended
materials: cotton sateen, poplin, dress linen, linen with viscose, linen with tencel,
linen with silk, linen with cotton, fine denim.
FITTING DETAILS:
PATTERN LAYOUT
1. Front/back - 2 patterns 2. Front/back basque - 2 patterns 3. Top tier ruffle - 2
patterns with fold 4. Bottom tier ruffle - 2 patterns with fold. 5. Strap - 4 patterns 6.
Front/back trim - 2 pieces

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 IMPORTANT!
The patterns already include seam allowances:

0,3 cm/0.12" on the upper seam of the ruffles, 0 cm/" on the outer seam of
the cuffs. On the other cuts - 1 cm/0.4". Take it into account when cutting.
The seam allowances are also shown on each pattern.

PREPARATION FOR CUTTING

Before cutting and sewing material must be prepared, ie pre-treat the fabric
with water or steam.
This is necessary for the material to give shrinkage and the product will not
shrink in the finished form. For preparation, the material should be soaked or
washed, and then ironed, following the rules of care for each type of fabric.
Materials, which include cotton, linen, viscose should be soaked or washed at a
temperature of 30-40 ℃ degrees (86 - 104 ℉ ), dried on a horizontal surface
and
ironed in a slightly damp form on the wrong side.

LET’S START SEWING

To join the patterns we use a straight stitch with a stitch length
of 2,5 mm/0.1". To work the cuts - 3-thread overlock,
recommended stitch width is not more than 6 mm/0.2". If you do
not have an overlock, the edge can be trimmed with a zigzag or
pseudo overlock stitch. Be sure to test all stitches before sewing
on a piece of fabric. By the default allowance width is 1 cm/0.4"
unless otherwise specified.

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 HOW TO CUT

When cutting, it is important to take into account the direction of

the grain axis. If this is not done, the garment may become skewed during
wear. On the patterns the grain axis is marked with an arrow, on the material
it runs along the factory edge. The pattern parts should be laid out so that
the grain axis marking coincides with the thread direction on the fabric (the
arrow on the patterns runs parallel to the selvedge). In order to make the
cutting process as simple and clear as possible, a layout plan is attached to
each pattern. It shows the most rational way of arranging the patterns on
the fabric. You can use the scheme, or you can do the cutting at your own
discretion. Also attached to each layout plan is a list of cutting details, this is
a checklist of what you should get. When you are finished cutting, you can
use it to check that all the parts are in place.

FOR CUTTING IN THE STITCHING, the material is folded in half, face inwards.
The folding can be with one or two folds. The patterns are placed according
to the pattern and cut out. The patterns with a fold are placed on the fold of
the fabric. Patterns that protrude from the fabric fold on the layout plan are
cut last from the fabric in one layer. If the pattern has a simple, symmetrical
shape, it can be folded in half and cut at the fold.

FOR CUTTING IN ONE LAYER, the fabric is placed face down, the pattern
pieces are placed according to the pattern and cut out. The patterns with a
fold must be cut first by folding this section in half, and then go on to the
rest of the patterns.
CAUTION! Please note that paired patterns are cut in mirror image (sleeves,
pants, pockets, collars, etc.). Be sure to transfer all the reference marks from
the patterns to the fabric with chalk/ marker or notches 2-3 mm (0.07-0.1
inches) long.

3 3 1. Front/back - 2 patterns 2.
Front/back basque - 2 patterns
4 4 3. Top tier ruffle - 2 patterns
5 with fold 4. Bottom tier ruffle -
1 2
5 5 2 patterns with fold. 5. Strap - 4
2 patterns 6. Front/back trim - 2
1 6 5 pieces

6
6
 How to sew

1.Fold the strap pieces

lengthwise in half, facing
inward. Pin/stitch.

2.Sew the stitching on the sewing

machine at a distance of 1
cm/0.4" from the edge. Set the
tack.

3.Trim the seam allowances to 5

mm/0.2".

4.Corners die-cut.

5.Use a pencil or a special tool to

turn the straps right side out,
carefully straighten the seams,
and press them with an iron.

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 5.Fold the basque with the front
and back pieces face to face. Align
the center and the edges. Pin.

6.Pin the entire length evenly.

7.Sew pieces on the sewing

machine. Set the tack at the
beginning and at the end of the
stitching.
8.Sew the seam, then sew it to the
side of the basque.

9. Place the straps on the front

and back pieces face to face
according to the end marks.
Pin/stitch.

10.The seam on the strap is

facing the armholes.

11. Fasten the straps on the

machine with 4-4.5 mm/0.15-
0.17" stitches at a distance of 7-8
mm/0.27-0.31" from the edge. Or
with hand stitches.

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 12. Fold the front and back pieces
face to face, pin/stitch at the side
seams.

13.Sew the stitching on a sewing

machine, the seam allowances are
processed on an overlock on the back
side.

14.Press seam allowance and

overstitch to the front side.

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 EDGING
16.Fold the trim pieces face to face,
matching the side cuts. Pin/stitch
17.Sew on the machine. Make a tack
at the beginning and at the end of
the stitching.

18.Iron out the seams.

19.The outer edge of the trim is

overlocked on the front side. Tip! To
make a neat edge, trim the seam
allowance, remove excess threads
on the edge - make a neat cut. On the
overlock disengage the knife and
stitch. Press the seam with an iron.

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 JOINING THE BODICE
AND TRIMS
20.The sundress bodice and the trim are
folded face to face. Align the center of
the front and back and side seams.
Pin/stitch together. 21.Pin evenly along
the entire length. 22.Sew the pieces
together on the machine at a distance of
1 cm/0.4" from the edge.

23.Recommendation! For a better result

when turning out the strap we
recommend to make a smaller stitch in
the area of the strap, reducing it in length
to 1.5 mm/0.05". Start from the edge and
end at the check mark of the strap. 28.
Attach the shoulder seam trim with hand
stitches

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 24.Trim the seam allowances to 5
mm/0.2".

25.Make notches along the armhole at a

distance of 1-1.5 cm/0.4-0.6" from each
other. Notches are small incisions on the
seam allowance, not reaching the seam by
1 mm/ 0.04". They are necessary so that
the rounded sections can be turned out
without pulling the material.

26.Cut out the corners and allowances in

the area of joining the sleeves.

27.Turn the cuff to the front side.

28.Turn the cuff on the seam allowance.

Stitch along the trim at a distance of 1-2
mm/0.04-0.08" from the seam between
the straps, thus securing the seam
allowance.

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 29.Stitch along the armhole. Turn the cuff
to the seam allowance and stitch along it at
a distance of 1-2 mm/ 0.04-0.08" from the
seam. Start from the side seam to the place
that the machine allows. First one way, then
the other.

30.Measure the distance that is not

reached to the top on one side of the
bodice, and transfer it to the other side of
the front and back. This way we can do the
stitching on the other side symmetrically.

31.This is how the stitching looks from the

wrong side.

32.We straighten all the seams and iron the

top cut in the area of the basque.

33.At the same time, the overkant should be

formed due to the stitching. Transitional
edging (overkant) is a shift of the seam to
the wrong side so that it is not visible from
the front side.

34.Then sew through the armhole area, also

with transitional edging .

35.Then press the seam on the front side.

36.Secure the edge of the trim with pins or

hand stitches. Sew the stitching evenly into
the seam of the front and the basque, thus
fasten it.

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37.Align the seam on the trim
with the side seam and fasten
it with pins or hand stitches.
Sew a stitch from the face
exactly into the side seam,
thus fasten the trim.

38.Sew the bottom of the

bodice on the overlock,
stitching from the front side.
Press it with iron.

Skirt:
39. Place the upper and lower
ruffles of the skirt face to face,
matching the side cuts. Pin/stitch
together.

40. Sew, stitching at a distance of 1

cm/0.4" from the edge. Set the
fasteners. Overlock the seam
allowances on the back side.

41.Press the seam allowances with

an iron and then overstitch them to
the front side.

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 42. On the bottom ruffle of the skirt,
fold the bottom by 0.5 cm/0.2", then
another 1 cm. Sew in place.

43. On the upper cut of the lower skirt

ruffle you should make an assembly.
Lay two parallel stitches at a distance of
0.5/0.2" and 1.5 cm/0.6" from the edge,
stitch length 4-4.5 mm/0.2", do not put
tack. Thread tails should be left long
enough - 10-15 cm/ 4-6"

44. Perform the assembly.

Simultaneously pull the top 2 threads,
forming folds. The assembly is evenly
distributed on the whole upper cut.

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45.Fold the top and bottom ruffles of
the skirts face to face, matching the
cuts. Pin/stitch. Pay attention to the
overlap of the side seams

46. Sew on the machine, stitching at a

distance of 1 cm/0.4" from the edge.
The seam allowances are worked on
the overlock on the side of the bottom
ruffle of the skirt.

47.The seam allowances are sewn to

the side of the upper skirt ruffle,
without going to the folds.

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48. On the upper cut of the upper ruffle of
the skirt perform the assembly. Lay two
parallel stitches at a distance of 0.5/0.2"
and 1.5 cm/0.6" from the edge, stitch
length 4-4.5 mm, do not put tack. Thread
tails should be left long enough - 10-15
cm/4-6".

49. Make the assembly. Pull the top 2

threads at the same time to form pleats.
Distribute the assembly evenly over the
entire upper cut

50. Fold the skirt and bodice pieces face to

face, matching the cuts. Pin/stitch. Pay
attention to the overlap of the side seams.

51. Baste by sewing a stitch at a distance of

1 cm/0.4" from the edge. Work the seam
allowances on the overlock on the skirt side

52. Overstitch the seam allowances to the

side of the bodice, without going to the
folds

54. Sew on the buttons.

55. Final ironing and done!

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