Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels Map

Ohrid
2018/2019

Active Ohrid
Get the adrenaline
pumping under water, on
wheels or in the air!

Exciting Excursions
Explore intriguing
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Issue Nº1

inyourpocket.com
Bar-Fly Catering
Enjoy your meal
 Contents
Enjoy Your Holiday with Us!
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Where to Stay 26
Luxury spas to budget beds

Ohrid basics 7 Vevčani 29

Essential info for your trip A very peculiar place

Arriving & Getting around 7 Kruševo 30

Getting here’s never been easier Paragliding paradise

Hotel & SPA Restaurants

From tavče gravče to кафе
9 Struga
Holy sites across the lake
32

TINO Ohrid
Cafés 14 Macedonian Wine 33
Coffee and cakes Nazdravje!

Nightlife 15 Macedonian Brands 35

Party like a local The stories behind the names

Sightseeing 18 Directory 37
Churches, monasteries and more WiFi, dentists and the post
Tino Hotel & SPA Tino Hotel & SPA Sv.Stefan Villa Marko (Tino) Trpejca
Ohrid, Macedonia Ohrid, Macedonia Ohrid, Macedonia Leisure 24 Ohrid map 38
Stay active in Ohrid Find your way around town and the lake

Kej marsal Tito 55 Sveti Stefan BB Trpejca BB

Ohrid, Macedonia Ohrid, Macedonia Ohrid, Macedonia
Phone: Phone: Phone:
+389 46 23 04 50 +389 46 20 93 40 +389 46 209 340
+389 46 23 04 51 e-mail: tino_svstefan@t.mk +389 71 35 27 06
+389 70 35 25 51 web: www.hoteltino-svstefan.com
e-mail: hoteltino@t-home.mk
web: www.hoteltino.com.mk
Made for your pleasure!
Spa Center made for your
pleasure and wellness
Taste here all national and international
specialties, lake and see food

BOOK NOW!
Despite the dramatic increase in tourists and tourism infrastructure in recent years, at its heart Ohrid has always been, and in many ways still
Rooms, Apartments & VIP Apartment is, a sleepy fishing village, photo by MaLija / Shutterstock.com

www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 5
 Foreword Ohrid Basics
If you’ve ever visited Macedonia during the summer and
wondered where everybody was, the answer is Ohrid. Claim-
ing the impressively rare title of UNESCO World Heritage Site
for both its culture and its nature, Macedonia’s foremost leisure
capital offers visitors not only the chance to mess about on
one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, it also boasts sev- E S S E N TI A L
eral historical sights that are worth the air fare alone. Less than C I TY G U I D E S
Publisher
200km from the capital and right on the edge of the awesome Macedonia In Your Pocket
Galičica National Park, Ohrid’s diminutive dimensions make it Bul. K.J. Pitu 15-I/3 1000 Skopje, Macedonia
Tel. +389 75 450 250
a friendly destination for those who can’t be bothered to travel macedonia@inyourpocket.com
large distances to experience lots of culture whilst also serving macedonia.inyourpocket.com
as a potential base for adventures further afield.
In this, our first ever Ohrid In Your Pocket guide, you can Director Vladimir Stefanovski
vladimir.stefanovski@inyourpocket.com
find some highlights of what to see, do eat, drink and buy
during your time in town, as well as some destinations out Editorial
of town, such as Vevčani and Kruševo. You can also find lots Managing Editor Alan Smithee
more info online at iyp.me/ohrid, where we’ve got tons of Contributors Jeroen van Marle, Yuri Barron
Research Verica Jordanova
additional descriptions, features and interesting tidbits for Design Radomir Lazović
Ohrid and elsewhere in the country, while our elegant App Photographs Shutterstock,
for both iOS and Android can always be downloaded for Cover Photo Shannen95/Shutterstock
free at iyp.me/app. We hope you enjoy your time exploring
Ohrid and its surrounds, and if you’ve got any feedback, Sales & Circulation
Managers Snezana Stefanovska, Milan Ilik
tips, constructive criticism and/or complaints, we’d love to Sales Representative Milan Ilik
hear from you at macedonia@inyourpocket.com. Social media and PR Verica Jordanova
Make the time to explore the wild and wondrous areas around the town of Ohrid, photo by Atosan / Shutterstock.com
Printed by Data Pons (www.datapons.com.mk)
Cover story Circulation 10,000 copies, printed once per year Alcohol
The three most popular alcoholic drinks in Macedonia,
in the middle of the night (especially if you’ve been
drinking) and be careful who you hand your credit
Copyright notice
If there’s one image most associated Text and photographs copyright Skopje in Your Pocket. All are rakija, a fruit brandy made almost exclusively from card to when buying things with plastic. Thanks to
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced grapes and that often precedes lunch and is an indis- the abundance of mountains and fresh springs in the
with Ohrid, it’s the famed Church of in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review,
St John at Kaneo, perched idyllically without written permission from the publisher and copyright
pensable accompaniment at almost all celebrations, country, the tap water is absolutely fine to drink.
on a rocky promontory overlooking owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license locally produced wine (vino), which is of exceptionally
the lake. It’s the image that’s been from UAB In Your Pocket, Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. good quality and beer (pivo), of which the most wide- LGBT Macedonia
+370 5 212 29 76. spread brands are Skopsko, the Skopje-brewed market Same-sex relationships are legal in Macedonia and ho-
etched in our minds
leader that also produces a rare dark beer, and Zlaten mosexuality was decriminalised in 1996 as a precon-
Dab, which is brewed in Prilep. Craft beer is becoming dition for joining the Council of Europe. Macedonian
increasingly popular. Although we didn’t see anything law defines marriage as a union between a man and
About IYP on display the last time we were drinking in Ohrid. a woman and a huge percentage of Macedonians still
harbour homophobic sentiments due to a general lack
DUTCH In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading pub- Electricity of open debate on the subject. There’s no LGBT scene
CARIBBEAN
lisher of locally-produced city guides sin- The electricity in Macedonia is 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz in Ohrid as such and couples are encouraged to keep
ESTONIA ce 1992, recently launched a brand new and flows out of standard European round pin sockets. their canoodling confined to their hotel rooms. Several
LATVIA RUSSIA smartphone app: In Your Pocket City LGBT rights organisations are active in the country, and
NORTHERN LITHUANIA Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked Emergency numbers all maintain useful websites where more information
IRELAND Police Tel. +389 1 92 and/or contacts can be found.
IRELAND BELARUS venues and sights alongside essential
NETHERLANDS Fire Tel. +389 1 93
POLAND travel information, these city guides Ambulance Tel. +389 1 94 Local time
GERMANY UKRAINE
BELGIUM CZECH have been carefully crafted by our lo- Macedonia is in the Central European Time (CET) zone at
REPUBLIC
cal editors and include only the places Floors GMT+1hr. When it’s 12:00 in Skopje it’s 06:00 in New York,
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
SLOVENIA
HUNGARY
ROMANIA GEORGIA they are happy to recommend. The app The Macedonians use the British floor numbering sys- 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central European
CROATIA
ITALY
BOSNIA SERBIA - available on both iOS and Android - is tem, meaning if you enter a building at ground level, Summer Time (CEST, GMT+2hrs) falls between the last
MONTENEGRO
BULGARIA
free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ the first floor is the one above you. Sundays of March and October respectively.
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA app on your smartphone to download it.
GREECE Health & Safety Market values
AUSTRALIA To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Macedonia is safer than many West European countries Slice of burek 50den (€0.80)
SOUTH Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. with violent crime, including attacks against foreign- Espresso 60den (€1)
AFRICA
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. ers, being extremely rare. Do however exercise caution, Decent bottle of local wine 300den (€5)
com/inyourpocket). beware of pickpockets and bag-snatchers in crowded Bottle of Skopsko beer in a pub 100den (€1.60)
areas, think twice about wandering about on your own Taxi ride across town 100den (€1.60)

6 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 7

 Ohrid Basics Arriving & Getting Around
Money & Costs
The Macedonian denar (written as den in this guide and SYMBOL key
MKD in many other places) is a non-convertible currency
that mildly fluctuates around a stable conversion rate of P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
about 61 den to €1. Most currency comes in the form of
banknotes, with some coins also in circulation. Hotel, restau- O Casino H Conference facilities
rant and transport prices are considerably lower than in the T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
West, a situation that along with the introduction of low cost
flights in and out of the country makes visiting Macedonia F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
an increasingly attractive proposition. Several ATMs can be R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
found in the centre of Ohrid and paying with plastic is the
norm in most places in town these days, although it’s always K Restaurant J Old town location
worth carrying some spare cash for emergencies.
D Sauna C Swimming pool
National holidays I Fireplace W Wifi
New Year January 1
Orthodox Christmas January 7 B Outside seating
Good Friday April 6 (2018) VAT (21%) and breakfast included unless otherwise stated
Easter Sunday April 8 (2018)
Easter Monday April 9 (2018) Smoking
Labour Day May 1 Still very much a national pastime, smoking in Macedonia is
Sts. Cyril & Methodius Day May 24 yet to witness the kind of backlash that’s taken place in the
Republic Day August 2 rest of Europe over the last decade or so. Although bars and
Independence Day September 8 restaurants now come with designated non-smoking areas,
Revolution Day October 11 there’s still a long way to go before any hope of a total ban.
Day of Macedonian Revolutionary Struggle October 23 Macedonia is a major grower and producer of Turkish tobac-
St. Clement of Ohrid Day December 8 co, especially in the countryside around Prilep. A packet of The bustling pedestrian streets of Ohrid’s Old Bazaar are prime for people watching, photo by ColorMaker / Shutterstock.com
Marlboro currently retails at around 120den, or €2.
Religion By plane Driving in from Greece via Bitola is also a relatively simple af-
The majority of people who identify themselves as eth- When to go Ohrid’s St. Paul the Apostle Airport is small and easy to use fair, with the journey time from the latter taking just over an
nic Macedonians belong to one degree or another to the Macedonia, a small country by anyone’s standards, can claim and is located just 10km north of town centre. Once you’re hour. With the exception of a few hotels with private parking
Eastern Orthodox faith, accounting for some 67 percent of a total of three very different climates, namely changed through Customs the combined Arrivals and Departures hall facilities, there’s not much in the way of free parking in the
the country’s believers. The other major religion, practiced Mediterranean, mountainous and mildly continental. Aver- features ATMs, currency exchange, a small café and little else. town centre. Parking is controlled by attendants who’ll come
almost exclusively by the Albanian minority, is Islam, which age temperatures vary considerably depending on where and find you as soon as you pull into a space. Expect to pay
accounts for a further 30 percent. The remaining three per- you are, with much of the country receiving blissfully long Getting to town somewhere in the region of 25den/hour. Pay in advance and
cent are composed mainly of Catholics and a handful of and hot summers with relatively mild and wet winters and If you’ve arranged to rent a car on arrival, the car rental of- pay the man extra if you stay parked longer than planned.
others. Lydia of Thyatira, the first European to convert to other parts such as the mountains suffering from long fices are all located on the far side of the car park facing
Christianity in 51AD, is generally portrayed as being Greek, snowy winters and the briefest of chilly summers. At an alti- you as you exit the building. Alternatively, the only other
tude of 693m, Ohrid is a particularly welcoming place dur-
although many people, including not surprisingly a con-
siderable amount of the local population, consider her to ing the height of the summer and is known for its cool sum-
way into town is by taxi, which should cost somewhere in
the region of 500den or €8. Arriving in Ohrid
be Macedonian. Trips to see the many beautiful Christian mer evenings. If you’re not coming to ski or lay on a sun bed, Bus Station
and Muslim houses of worship in Macedonia feature as we recommend visiting in late May when the spring flowers By bus QG‑2, Pitu Guli 4, tel. +389 46 26 03 39, www.
one of the main highlights of any visit to the country. are in full bloom and the temperature is pleasantly warm. Buses arrive from international destinations including Albania, mktransport.mk/en/stations/station/ohrid.
Austria, Bulgaria, Germany, Italy, Montenegro and Slovenia as
well as from scores of towns and cities around the country at Ohrid Airport
Ohrid’s rudimentary bus station, which in reality is little more QH‑1, St Paul The Apostle Airport, tel. +389 46 25 28
than a car park with a ticket office just north of the main action. 30, www.ohd.airports.com.mk
Getting to town A kilometre or so northeast of the centre,
walking to town is an option in good weather. Alternatively, Tourist information
taxis waiting outside can whisk you to your hotel from between
100den and 250den depending on where you’re staying. As is the case with scores of other Macedonian towns
where you’d think there’d be one, no official tourist informa-
By car tion centre exists in Ohrid. Fear not however as countless
Ohrid is an at times frustratingly slow drive from Skopje that hotels, shops and restaurants throughout the town and be-
usually takes around three hours, a situation that prom- yond stock plenty of information about the almost infinite
ises to improve when the new Chinese-built highway from amount of things to see and do not covered by this guide.
Kičevo is finally completed (don’t hold your breath). It’s also
relatively easy to reach Ohrid from Albania, where there are Cultuta 365
two border crossings to the north and south of Pogradec. QCar Samoil 34, +389 70 50 74 24
Take a piece of Macedonia home with you, photo by agrofruti / Shutterstock.com

8 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 9

 Arriving & Getting around Restaurants
Ohrid’s compact size and the close proximity of its major sights tours.QDame Gruev 84, tel. +389 78 40 75 08, www.
mean that most people can enjoy the town without having to rentabikeohrid.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
rely on public transport. There might be the occasional mo-
ment however when some wheels could come in handy.
Taxis
CAr Rentals Taxis are useful for shuttling backwards and forwards be-
tween your hotel and the town centre if necessary, and
Eurorent also make visiting a lot of sights in one go considerably less
With so much to explore around Ohrid, from the many demanding. If you choose to take the second option, it’s
sights around the lake itself, to Galičica National Park and best to negotiate a deal with the driver before setting off.
even further into the hinterland, having a rental car is al-
most a necessity. Lucky for you the folks at Eurorent are Bel Mercedes
their to help and even offer free delivery in both Ohrid QPariska Komuna 15, tel. +389 46 15 80.
and Bitola.QBoulevard Turistichka 48, +389 78 339 703,
www.eurorent.mk, info@eurorent.mk Suzuki
QTuristicka 38a, tel. +389 139 99. A table covered with dishes of mouthwatering Macedonian cuisine is truly a beautiful thing, photo by agrofruti / Shutterstock.com

Cycling Kej Marsal Tito In keeping with the Macedonian tradition of the unex-
Riding a bicycle around Ohrid is one of life’s great pleas- pected, Ohrid’s status as a hugely popular tourist resort International
means that although it should be full of restaurants churn-
ures. Many hotels in town offer bicycle rental. If you don’t The main lakeside street running the length of Sveta Sofija
have any luck with them or would prefer a more sophisti- ing out poor quality food at exorbitant prices the town
Ohrid where many of the hotels we list are located A good place to try both the local trout and cake, as the
cated ride, check out the people below. actually produces lots of wonderful and affordable cuisine.
is officially know as Kej Makedonija, a fact that name suggests this classy establishment overlooks the
Try Ohrid trout fresh from the lake and finish with a slice
many of the hotel owners choose to ignore and eponymous church and comes complete with a few out-
City Bike Ohrid of Ohrid cake, an artery-clogging essential we thoroughly
who continue to refer to as Kej Marsal Tito in mem- side tables for staring at it when you’re eating. Serving the
One of the best places around for everything to do with recommend. On the down side, don’t be surprised if ser-
ory of the former dictator. This is common practice dual purpose of a café and full-blooded restaurant, the
bicycles. As well as renting a wide range of machines to vice is slow and sloppy. The town’s waiters (and they nearly
throughout Macedonia and as charming as it may menu is stuffed with Macedonian and international dish-
suit all tastes and budgets, the people here can also fix are all men) don’t mean any harm when they stare at you
or may not be, it can be extremely frustrating when es that although not exactly venturing into the realms of
any problem with your bike and they also arrange bicycle sitting there with an empty beer glass. It’s always much
you’re trying to find a place. gourmet cuisine are certainly delicious enough to keep the
easy and certainly less stressful to simply ask for something
place open. Like many restaurants in the area, Sveta Sofija
when you need it.
features live music most evenings.QB‑5, Car Samoil 88,
tel. +389 46 26 74 03. Open 09:00 - 01:00. A­P­B­W
vilamina.com.mk
info@vilamina.com.mk
Fish
+389 (0)46 270 444
Dalga Kebap
Although the menu’s packed with dishes including the
Advertised in Albanian-run restaurants as qofte and in
usual grilled meat options and beef stroganoff, this fine
Macedonian-run ones as kebap, these fabulous minced
affair perched close to the water’s edge is essentially a
beef sausages flavoured with various herbs and spices ac-
fish restaurant. Their Ohrid trout is legendary in fact, and
cording to the restaurant in question are essential eating
the setting is hard to beat. Definitely worth a visit if you’re
for all non-vegetarians. Cooked over hot coals and best
looking for an exceptional feast, and even better if you
served with white bread and a cheese-laden salad in our
drop by when there’s some traditional Macedonian music
humble opinion, to order simply point and hold up as
being played live.QC‑5, Kosta Abrash 3, tel. +389 46 25
many fingers as you want kebap.
59 99. Open 10:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-01:00. A­P
­B­E­J­K
www.eurorent.mk info@eurorent.mk Adana
f: EURORENT-MACEDONIA
This popular grill house is named after the city in southern
tel:+389 (0)47 24 15 15; +389 (0)78 339 703 Lihnidos
Turkey that’s known throughout the region for its famed
A mildly controversial restaurant in which you’re never
spicy Adana kebabs, which is the obvious choice on any
quite sure how good or fresh the fish is going to be, you
first visit here. Alternatively, you can browse the heaping
can’t argue with the location or atmosphere although
piles of meat behind the glass counter and perhaps you’ll
you might find yourself arguing with the waiter. In an un-
find something else the strikes your fancy.QD‑3, Goce
beatable location with breathtaking views of the moun-
Delchev 70, tel. +389 72 76 77 44. Open 08:00-24:00.
tains across the lake in Albania, we recommend a visit
for something else on the menu such as the steak. Early
Meydan
birds might also be interested to learn that they do a good
You can’t miss Meydan’s sprawling terrace in front of
value breakfast.QC‑5, Kosta Abrash, tel. +389 78 96 65
the fountain in the middle of the Old Bazaar and you
99. Open 08:00-01:00. P­T­E­S­J­W­K
shouldn’t miss the chance of dropping by for something

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 Restaurants
to eat if you’re hungry. As well as serving some of the best
kebap we’ve ever had the pleasure of eating, their grilled
meat menu is something to be experienced indeed. Other
touches that mark this one out as a little bit special include
the toasted white bread they serve as a side dish and the
complete absence of piped music.QD‑3, Sveti Kliment
Ohridski bb, tel. +389 46 25 16 95. Open 08:00 - 01:00.

Vkusno
Featuring a range of proper Albanian fare with the pre-
requisite spices on the table to throw all over it before you
shove it in your mouth, Vkusno’s the one with the outdoor
oven full of rotating roasting chickens. They also serve
burgers, which we suggest you avoid. One of several simi-
lar places in the immediate neighbourhood, we include it
for the simple fact that we like it and strongly suggest you
give it a try.QE‑4, Turska Carsija bb. Dine above the lapping waters of the lake at one of several great local restaurants along the path out to the Church of St Kaneo, photo by
agrofruti / Shutterstock.com

Gladiator
Macedonian
Belvedere
Quite simply one of our favourite restaurants in Macedo-
nia, Gladiator (it overlooks the Amphitheatre) pushes all OUT OF TOWN
This lovely old-fashioned place with busy waiters, deli- the right buttons and more. Exquisitely decorated in peas-
cious grilled meat dishes and occasional live folk music is ant style without making you reach for a bucket and worth Ostrovo
located in a central location very close to the edge of the having a look at even if you spend your entire visit on one Nestled away in the heart of nature on the south-
lake. The interior décor speaks volumes about the owner, of their two tiny outdoor balconies, the menu is positively east side of the smaller island, Restaurant Ostrovo
who has something verging on a fetish for the antique creaking with classic dishes of which the friendly staff will is the perfect spot to enjoy sampling some of
look, whilst outside is a small terrace in the shade of three be only too pleased to guide you through. Home cook- Macedonia’s delicious cuisine. The menu offers a
trees. Alongside the classic grilled food are a cavalcade of ing at its absolute best.QB‑4, Brakja Miladinovci 14, tel. range of traditional dishes from the region such
other dishes, all made from the freshest of local ingredi- +389 78 26 14 82. Open 09:00 - 22:00. as, stuffed cabbage leaves and peppers, bean
ents. The place is more often than not rammed during the dishes, snails and traditional pies, they also offer
evenings, so get there early or book a table in advance Neim several types of fish including eel, carp and other
to avoid disappointment.QD‑5, Kej Makedonija 2, tel. Everything from the tavče gravče to the hand-cut seafood. After you meal you can enjoy an unfor-
+389 46 23 15 20. Open 08:00-01:00, Sun 08:00-24:00. French fries is an absolute delight in this otherwise gettable boat cruise above the springs of the Crn
A­P­B­L­J­W­K­ unremarkable establishment in the Old Bazaar. Cheap, Drim River. The area is part of the Galichica Na-
friendly, unpretentious and one of the undisputed tional Park and an abundance of flora and fauna
Biljanini Izvori masters of grilled meat dishes, the only problem here can be observed including water turtles through-
Aka the Biljana Springs and located at the popular attrac- is that it’s easy to get addicted and thus miss out on out the summer.QH‑4, St Naum, tel. +389 72 21
tion of the same name, we came here for the legendary Ohrid’s other magnificent places to eat and drink. A 09 06, www.restoranostrovo.com.mk. Open
trout čiorba (sour soup) for breakfast, an unusual choice favourite with the locals, they also have good value 08:00-24:00. A­P ­B ­E ­W ­K
you might be thinking but it actually works, and it’s also accommodation upstairs complete with free wireless
one of the best fish soups we’ve ever tasted. Surplus to the internet.QD‑3, Goce Delchev 71, tel. +389 70 21 20 Cosa Nostra
soup is a range of fine Macedonian and international dishes 66. Open 07:30-23:30. P­X ­B ­J ­W Found in a lovely Old Town setting and complete with a
served either inside their antique-looking restaurant or on fine indoor terrace that opens to the elements during the
their massive terrace next to the running water. The out- summer, Cosa Nostra wins bonus points before we’ve even
side space features lots of things to keep the kids amused,
including a renovated wooden boat constructed in Ohrid
Pizza mentioned the great food and the even better prices. Fancy
without being too over the top, they knock out some im-
about 80 years ago.QF‑5, Naum Ohridski bb, tel. +389 Aleksandrija pressively creative pizzas here alongside a range of other
46 26 68 16. Open 08:00-01:00. A­P­X­B ­E­W­K A proper pizza takes around 90 seconds to cook, and dishes including their highly praised lasagne. There’s also
ours came in seven minutes, which isn’t bad consider- a good selection of beers and a good selection of Mace-
Čun ing we weren’t the only ones eating here at the time. donian wine.QC‑5, Kosta Abras 50, tel. +389 46 23 02
A nice restaurant overlooking the lake in the centre of town Although there’s lots to eat here, Aleksandrija quite 40, www.facebook.com/Cosanostrapizzaohrid/. Open
including an impressive breakfast menu of bacon, eggs, om- rightly and quite sensibly promotes itself as a pizza 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A­P­B­W
elette, continental breakfast and the like plus stews, shopska restaurant, because that’s without a shadow of a doubt
salad, pancakes and plenty of fish. Decorated with hanging what they do best. The lake-view location right in the Di Angolo
fishing nets and featuring a small upstairs terrace with terrific centre of the action is pretty hard to beat too. The own- Stuff yourself stupid on great pizza and wash it down with
views, the service is friendly and the food comes highly rec- ers run a very nice hotel of the same name upstairs. a bottle of local wine all for under €15 and you’ll start to un-
ommended.QC‑5, Kosta Abrash 4, tel. +389 46 25 56 03. QC‑5, Kosta Abras bb, tel. +389 76 21 07 27. Open derstand why Ohrid is becoming such a hit with foreigners.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. A­P­B­W 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. A­P ­B Located close to the bottom of a hill on a quiet backstreet in

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 Restaurants Cafés
the centre, this good value restaurant comes with friendly Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. P­X­B­J­W
staff and a choice of seven rooms upstairs if you’re looking
for a place to sleep.QD‑4, Petar Chaule 31, tel. +389 46 Stazione
26 00 03, www.diangolo.mk/. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat Stroll along the water to the far south side of the city
10:00-01:00. A­P­X­B­J­W­K centre promenade to find the spot for some of the best
pizza and pasta in town. Out favourite thing about the
Leonardo place is the relaxing atmosphere, away from the hustle
A long established Italian favourite in the centre of town and bustle, sitting outside under the shade of trees
churning out a good selection of pizzas using only the and listening to the water lapping the short just a few
best ingredients, Leonardo is also the place to head to metres away. It doesn’t get much more pleasant than
for other Italian favourites including some fine meat that.QF‑5, Kej Makedonija 101, tel. +389 46 26 04 06.
dishes and their recommended tagliatelle for vegetar- Open 09:00-01:00. P­X ­B ­W ­K
ians. The other thing we really like about this place are
the late working hours during the weekend, when ev-
eryone else is ready for bed and you need to eat.QCar
Samoil 33, tel. +389 46 26 03 59. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Vegetarian
Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. A­P ­B ­J ­W Dr. Falafel
With no sign of a hipster anywhere in sight, this refreshing
Nemo little kiosk of a place serves falafel, hummus, bread to wrap
Straddling the Old Town and the Old Bazaar on a charm- it in and little else beyond a refrigerator full of soft drinks.
ing narrow street, Nemo is an unassuming pizza restaurant There’s a handful of tables inside and out, although the best
featuring great smells coming from the wood-fired oven, way to enjoy the food here is to take it away and devour
menus in English, appetisers and pasta dishes and plenty of it on the hoof whilst strolling around the Old Bazaar. The
exceptional pizza as you’d expect, which come in 19 variet- falafel in question isn’t the best you’ll ever taste but it’s
ies in two different sizes. We like the house special, a pork- pretty good all the same and just about the only street food
packed treat with lashings of soured cream that goes down option for vegetarians in town.Q7mi Noemvri 8, tel. +389 We don’t like milk or sugar in our coffee, but we’ll gladly take a panoramic view of the lake, photo by S-F / Shutterstock.com
especially well with an ice-cold glass of Skopsko.QD‑4, Tsar 77 89 71 67. Open 09:30 - 22:30. A­P­W
Samoil bb, tel. +389 46 25 33 55, www.pizzanemo.com/. Although the choice of cafés in Ohrid is limited, it’s worth on holiday in Ohrid there’s no reason to be in a hurry.QBu‑
remembering that most restaurants and nightspots also levar Makedonski Prosvetiteli, +389 70 537 901, www.
serve the purpose of a place to sit and drink coffee, a na- facebook.com/CornerBistroOhrid. Open 08:00 - 24:00
tional pastime in these parts.
Fruit Box
Bar Fly The idea of cold coffee may seem like anathema to many,
Although it’s almost certainly not the case, we’ve always but if you find yourself in Ohrid in July or August you
assumed that the name of this coffee bar at Ohrid airport might just change your mind. The mocha frappaccinos
is a purposeful homage to Bukowski, and thus quite fan- here are worth their weight in gold when all you want to
cied the place. It’s pretty much what you’d expect from do is stay in the lake until the sun goes down, plus there’s
an airport of this size, but is still a fine place for a pre-flight lots of freshly squeezed fruit juices and a modicum of light
drink or light snack. In the summer they also open a ter- snacks if you’re feeling peckish. Q D-4, Sveti Kliment
race out front, which makes drinking a beer or two almost Ohridski bb, +389 78 23 76 59, www.facebook.com/
obligatory.QOhrid Airport, www.ohd.airports.com.mk. fruitboxohrid. Open 09:00-24:00

Çayci Istanbul Shilla Coffee Bar

A tiny little place with mix-and-match furniture that’s ac- The nearest thing you’ll find to a hipster hangout in Ohrid,
commodated more behinds than most restaurant chairs this pleasant and extremely friendly place found up a
in town, this is the place to go if you’ve never tried tra- small flight of stairs in the heart of the Old Bazaar special-
ditional Turkish tea or coffee and would like to give one ises in good coffee, even better smoothies and some half-
or both a try. Simple in the extreme and run by a charm- way decent cocktails. The young people who run Shilla
ing elderly gentleman, this is the real Turkish deal.QD-4, like to refer to themselves as homies, something reflected
Sveti Kliment Ohridski bb, +389 46 52 90 50. Open in the choice of music they like to play, music that also
09:00-23:45 makes an occasional live performance here. Q D-4, Sveti
Kliment Ohridski bb, www.facebook.com/ShillaCof‑
Corner Bistro feeBar, +389 78 26 23 61. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
Found on the corner of one of the main intersections in 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
town, this popular local spot is only a couple years old
(opening in May 2016), and offers various burgers, pizza, sal-
ads and sweets to go along with its drinks menu. It can also Lots more cafés online at
turn into a fairly lively nighttime destinations depending on
the day of the week. Service is notorious slow, but if you’re iyp.me/ohrid
14 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 15
 Nightlife Nightlife
Noa mend using if you’ve already had a few, Potpeš rightly
A whopping great lounge overlooking the lake, this lively and claims the best position in Ohrid, set as it is on the beach
at times chaotic venue features staff running around trying to in a quiet cove under the cliffs and right on the edge of
keep the punters happy, who during our last visit were a pre- the water. Essentially a restaurant, Potpeš works best as a
dominantly young crowd having a good time and drinking bar to spend quality time at during the lazy summer eve-
vast amounts of wine like it was going out of fashion. It can nings. A really magical place.QKosta Abras bb, tel. +389
get quite loud in here during the evenings, but the terrace 72 71 44 15, www.plazapotpes.mk.
overhanging the water more than makes up for the mayhem
if you’re lucky enough to find a free a table by the water. Terazza Aquarius
Their limited menu, which includes great pizza, also makes The name says it all here, as the titular terrace is actually
Noa worthy of visit when you’re hungry.QC‑5, Kosta Abrash more of a pier as it sits on pylons over the splashing waves
38, tel. +389 72 21 09 03, www.noaloungebar.mk. Open of the lake. Open for nearly three decades, Terazza is one
09:00 - 01:00. A­P ­B­E­S­J­W of the most popular places in town throughout the year,
often turning into a rollicking nightspot in the evenings
Objectif with frequent live concerts packing the house.QC‑5, Kos‑
A swanky lounge bar overlooking the water, Objectif ta Abras bb, tel. +389 46 25 26 25, www.aquarius-oh.
churns out a range of decent dishes throughout the day mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00.
and is a fine place to drop by for food and/or drink any-
time. As the evening descends on Ohrid the place livens The Duck Café
During the summer months, Ohrid’s nightlife scene has all that you’d expect from a seaside resort destination, photo by: DanKe / Shutterstock.com up a bit and provides a good opportunity to meet like- Run by a local music enthusiast and situated inside a gor-
minded locals and knock back a few drinks with them, geous old building right next to the lake, the fabulous
If you can’t find any decent nightlife in Ohrid during the Kadmo Beach & Club whilst the weekends are given over to a regular series Duck Café’s neon sign proclaims Jazz & Blues which is
summer then you might want to try pinching yourself Giving Cuba next door a run for its money, this is another of live music concerts featuring musicians (and the oc- slightly misleading as almost all of the live music played
because it’s possible you fell asleep in the hotel when fine beachside venture doubling as a restaurant and a casional DJ) working in several musical genres.QE‑5, Kej here is rock. The drinks are a bit pricey and the music is
you were getting ready to go out. The town centre is so nightclub of sorts. In a genuinely idyllic setting and of- Makedonija, tel. +389 46 25 00 88. Open 08:00-02:00. very much hit and miss, but if you turn up on a good night
small all you really need to do is follow your eyes and ten popular with large groups and families who come to A­P­B­E­J it’s well worth sticking around. The staff speak good Eng-
ears until you find something you like. In the meantime, wine, dine and generally celebrate, Friday and Saturday lish, so we recommend you drop by early to find out what
here are a few places to get you started. For those who nights feature live DJs and other acts and offer a fascinat- Potpeš evening events are planned for the next few days.QD‑5,
like a flutter, most casinos in town can be found in the ing opportunity to get sloshed with the locals and gener- Now featuring a long wooden walkway over the water Kej Makedonija 1, tel. +389 46 25 68 18. Open 09:00 -
area around the Ali Pasha Mosque and in the streets im- ally have a bit of a wild time.QKosta Abras 9, tel. +389 75 to reach it from the centre of town that we don’t recom- 01:00. A­P­B­J­W
mediately to the south. 42 55 29, www.facebook.com/kadmobeachclub/.

Liquid
Bars & Clubs We found ourselves looking for a defibrylator on first en-
tering Liquid, a boisterous affair that also serves as a bar
Cuba Libre Beach & Bar and that gives the impression of being a practice space
This infamous Ohrid night spot maintains a nightclub all year for the world smoking championships, a purely made-
round at Naum Ohridski 10a, whilst the summer season sees up event that the kids who hang out here would almost
the opening of their hedonistic lakeside club in which a small certainly win should such a thing exist. A great place to
beach just south of the centre is converted into a place of meet young locals, and thankfully possessing an al fresco
cocktails, snacks, good-looking people and very loud music. terrace next to the water, find it along the dark alley that
Policed by serious bouncers who exercise a certain amount leads to the Church of St. Sophia.QC‑5, Kosta Abrash 17,
of face control, Friday and Saturday nights feature DJs and live tel. +389 46 25 85 52, www.liquid.com.mk. Open 08:00
music until the very early hours of the morning.QH‑2, Naum - 01:00. A­P­B­E­W­Y
Ohridski 10a, tel. +389 71 23 14 00, www.cubalibreohrid.
com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. A­P­B­I­E­W Mr. I
A decent lounge bar with plenty of regular live music
Dublin close to the water and barely two minutes from the Old
Despite Dublin being the best Irish pub in Ohrid, it’s not Bazaar, Mr. I draws in a mixed crowd of locals throughout
exactly a memorable one, although unlike the Irish pub the year and an even larger assortment of drinkers dur-
around the corner they do at least serve Guinness on tap. ing the holiday season. One of the few places actively
If you’re used to Irish pubs being popular with expats and promoting shisha (bubble pipe) smoking, the slightly
their local colleagues, Dublin will come as a bit of a sur- clinical feel to the place melts away if you manage to
prise as it tends to attract a youngish and somewhat non- secure a table with a view of the lake and the crowds
descript local crowd most evenings. If you find yourself strolling up and down the waterfront outside. In keep-
having a serious session in here, the huge plates of hot ing with local tradition, Mr. I maintains a boutique ho-
snacks are well worth forking out for.QKej Makedonija tel upstairs if you eat too many of their recommended
45, tel. +389 46 20 00 40, www.irishpubdublinohrid. burgers and need to lie down.QKej Makedonija 29, tel.
mk. Open 08:00-02:00. A­P­B­W +389 46 20 09 95.

16 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 17

 Sightseeing Sightseeing
collection of black and white photographs depicting
Ohrid during the Ottoman period. Across the courtyard
is the truly outstanding Icon Gallery.

Guided tours
Although there’s nothing wrong with experiencing
Ohrid and the region that surrounds it as an entirely
independent traveller, a guided tour is guaranteed to
enrich your understanding of the place you’ve paid
good money to visit and will also contribute to keeping
the small scale local economy afloat. If you can’t find
anything interesting via the usual offers made by almost
every hotel in town, the following person offers all man-
ner of thoughtful and rewarding cultural adventures.

Daniela Sakova
English-speaking Daniela Sakova is a tourism expert
who offers a wide range of tours. Contact her directly
for more information.Qtel. +389 78 26 68 68.

Rightly famed for its churches, there’s lots more to see in and around the city, photo by Mr Challenge Films / Shutterstock.com The Archbishopric of Ohrid, photo by zefart / Shutterstock.com Museums & Galleries
Robevi Family House (Куќата на Робеви)
Although no longer possessing the 365 churches it used least 1447. The unusual exterior stone carvings create Ottomans during the 15th century, unlike many simi- Housed inside the fine old house built in 1864 that
to, Ohrid remains a great place to enjoy some of the best a good excuse to follow the track around the water to lar churches the magic surrounding this place isn’t so gives the place its name and that’s been protected
cultural and historical sightseeing in Macedonia and find the place and the frescos painted on the dome, much about its architectural splendour or what treats as a building of significant cultural and historical im-
features plenty of surviving Orthodox houses of worship hidden until 1964, are well worth the pain in the neck lie waiting inside but has much more to do with its as- portance since the end of the Second World War, this
and a couple of very old mosques that are absolutely out- you’ll get whilst staring at them in wonder.QKaneo sociations with several renowned figures, a fact that fascinating museum on three floors features many
standing and that must be seen when in town. If you’ve Plaoshnik Pateka, tel. +389 46 23 04 55. makes it one of the holiest sites in the entire region. wonderful examples of ancient statues and other stone
got enough time you should also visit the St. Naum QB‑4, Kuzman Kapidan.
Monastery close to the Albanian border in the south and Church of Sts Clement & Pantelejmon
make a trip to the quirky town of Struga 15km or so in the (Св.Климент и Пантелеј) Church of St Sophia (Св. Софија)
opposite direction. A Byzantine beauty whose precise origins are shroud- Constructed during the period when the Bulgarian
ed in mystery and that’s thought to have been built Empire ruled over the town, many experts claim that
on the site where the Glagolitic script, the forerunner this massively important and absolutely unmissible
Churches to today’s Cyrillic script, was created and that some
people say was designed by St. Clement of Ohrid (840-
church dates as far back at the end of the 9th century.
Another Orthodox building that once suffered the fate
Church of St Bogorodica Bolnička (Св. 916) himself. Briefly converted into a mosque by the of being turned into a mosque at the hands of the Ot-
Богородица Болничка) tomans, the beautifully preserved frescos inside date
Bolnička is the Macedonian word for hospital and, from between the 11th and 13th centuries. Such is the
along with another similar church in Ohrid, this often
overlooked little gem once served as a place of quar-
Boat trips importance of the building that you’ll find it lurking on
the back of the 1000den banknote.QCar Samoil, tel.
antine where visitors to the town during the period +389 46 26 74 03.
of the Black Death were required to stay for 40 days Not surprisingly, boat trips on Lake Ohrid are a popu-
before being allowed to mingle with the inhabitants. lar pastime for people visiting the town and there
Church of the Holy Mother of
Inside are some fantastic 14th-century frescoes, a are plenty of available options for those interested.
God Peribleptos (Црква Пресвета
19th-century iconostasis and little else.QCar Samoil. Moored along the water’s edge at the far western
Богородица Перивлептос)
Open 09:00 - 13:00. end of the Old Bazaar, boats range in size and qual-
One of the oldest churches in Ohrid, this magnificent
ity from little more than a bathtub with an outboard
structure was built in 1295 and is particularly interest-
Church of St John at Kaneo (Канео) motor to fully fledged pleasure cruisers. Most trips
ing for the frescos that lie within. Among the many
Fusing together Byzantine and Armenian architectural are pre-arranged, the most popular one being a visit
outstanding works painted here are originals by Mi-
church styles and almost as famous for its location as to the St. Naum Monastery, although anything’s pos-
chael Astrapas and Eutychios, 13th-century painters
for the building itself, the date of construction of this sible if you have the money and power to persuade.
from Thessaloniki whose signed works literally take
particular masterpiece has been lost to history, al- Prices start at around 60den and can rise to as much
your breath away. Known to many locals as the Mace-
though surviving documents suggest it’s been stand- as 10,000den if you want to take full possession of a
donian Sistine Chapel due to the amazing images on
ing on the edge of the cliff overlooking the lake since at large craft for a long period. Paintings and frescoes inside St Naum, photo by Atosan / Shut-
the domed ceiling, the church is also home to small terstock.com

18 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 19

Hotel Belvedere
St. Stefan b.b. Ohrid
Republic of Macedonia

Phones: +389 46 277 710

+389 46 277 720
Fax: +389 46 265 628

hotelbelvedere@t.mk
www.hotelbelvedere.mk

H O T E L

Makedonija 2, Ohrid, Republic of Macedonia +389 46 231 520

Hotel Filip
St. Stefan b.b. Ohrid
Republic of Macedonia

+389 46 209 710

info@hotelfilip.mk
www.hotelfilip.mk

Vila Bisera
Lagadin, Ohrid
Republic of Macedonia

+389 78 474 656

info@vilabisera.mk www.facebook.com/InYourPocket
Naum Ohridski b.b. Ohrid, Republic of Macedonia +389 46 266 816
 Sightseeing Sightseeing
fortress being in a relative bad condition, the small en-
trance fee to get inside is worth the trip up the hill for both
gaining a better understanding of the former strategic Ohrid Pearls
importance of Ohrid and for the related and spectacular
views of the lake and surrounding mountains.QB‑3, tel. The Risteski family have been producing jewellery
+389 46 26 23 86. for many years, now in the fourth generation they
keep the secret of the Ohrid pearl close to their
hearts. Their handmade designs showcase tradi-
Out of town tional beading methods as well as some more con-
temporary designs of necklaces, bracelets, earrings
Bay of Bones (Заливот на коските) and brooches. Traditionally, when a man proposed
If you’re planning a trip to the fabulous St. Naum Mon- to his sweetheart he would present her with an item
astery and have the means to stop, this somewhat of pearl jewellery, as such they became associated
speculative reconstruction of a prehistoric pile-dwelling to being worn by married women. Today they are
settlement jutting out over the lake offers an interesting worn and enjoyed by all women and add a certain
diversion for 30 minutes or so. Based on recent under- touch of class to any outfit. Q www.ohridpearls.
water archaeological work carried out on a settlement com.mk
dating from around 1000BC, find several woven huts
whose designs are based on what the locals are believed under 30km south of Ohrid and close to the Albanian
to have once lived and worked in. The building next to border. Complete with restaurant, gift shops, boat
the site contains a small museum with lots of informa- tours and peacocks running wild in the gardens, the
tion and a small café. This is also the place to arrange original monastery was founded by St. Naum (c.830
scuba diving trips to the nearby subterranean archaeo- -910), a disciple of Sts. Cyril and Methodius and one of
logical site. Just north is a recreation of a small Roman the seven Apostles of the First Bulgarian Empire. Ad-
fort that can also be visited.QGradishte, tel. +389 46 venturous travellers visiting the monastery by car with
26 24 98. Open 08:00 - 16:00. a few hours to spare might be interested to learn that
the nearby border crossing is seldom busy and that an
St Naum Monastery (Манастир Св. Наум) unscheduled trip to Albania is highly recommended.
Take a seat, close your eyes, and imagine what it would be like to take in a performance at the the ancient amphitheatre, photo by zefart Boasting some of the most extraordinary frescos and Entering Albania is a simple procedure, and the recom-
/ Shutterstock.com icon paintings in Macedonia and dating from 905AD, mended lakeside town of Pogradec is a mere 20 min-
the beautiful monastery complex of St. Naum a shade utes or so away.QLjubanishta.
monuments collected during archaeological expedi- Slavic icons dating from between the 11th and 19th cen-
tions in the region over the last century or so including turies, all of the icons on display came from local churches
a carved torso of the Goddess Isis dating from the 2nd although many were painted as far away as Thessaloniki
century BC and an ancient gold burial mask and glove and Istanbul.QClement’s University.
unearthed on top of the hill close to Samuel’s Fortress.
On the top floor find an exhibition space for showcas- Plaošnik (Плаошник)
ing the work of Ohrid’s still working traditional wood- Along with the aforementioned Amphitheatre, the re-
carvers and other folk art from around the country. mains of this early Christian basilica believed to date
QCar Samoil 62, tel. +389 46 26 24 93. Open 10:00 back to the 5th century is pretty much all that’s left of
- 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. the ancient Greek city of Lychnidos on which Ohrid was
originally built. Until recently little more than a series of
broken walls, careful excavation work has revealed a floor
Places of interest surface made of exquisite mosaics featuring exotic birds
and other animals as well as some geometric designs in-
Amphitheatre (Амфитеатар) cluding a few early swastikas. A raised walkway has been
Dating from around 200BC, the remains of this spectacu- built around the site allowing visitors to get a close-up
lar outdoor theatre laid buried and forgotten for centuries look of this marvellous spectacle.Qtel. +389 46 25 40 13.
before being discovered completely by accident in the
1980s. Nowadays the former location of gladiator battles Samuel’s Fortress (Самоилова Тврдина)
and murdering Christians is used for less violent affairs Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria (?-1014), who moved the capital
and is a popular location for all manner of theatrical and of the Bulgarian Empire from Skopje to Ohrid in 990, is a
musical performances during the summer.QIlindenska. controversial figure in modern Macedonia and his fortress
overlooking the town is another of the town’s buildings
Icon Gallery shrouded in myth and mystery. Believed to have been
Housed inside a lovely building constructed in the middle constructed on a much earlier fortress dating from the 4th
of the 19th century, Ohrid’s Icon Gallery is without ques- century BC, little remains of this once grand stronghold
tion one of the most important exhibitions of its kind in with the exception of the remaining outer wall structures,
the world. Featuring approximately 30 Byzantine and a few watch towers and four original gates. Despite the Even if you’ve checked every sight off your list during the day, a nighttime stroll around the old town is still a must, photo by saiko3p /
Shutterstock.com

22 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 23

 Leisure Leisure
Lake Cruises Paragliding
B&F Cruise Ohrid Paragliding Club Vertigo
This highly reputable company offer a range of full and half A local organisation of professionals who’ll whisk any-
day tours to some of the area’s most popular attractions. one with the guts and money up to the top of a nearby
Ranging from 30 minute trips to full day private charters mountain and jump off with you strapped to them. If
you can enjoy sailing in comfort upon the majestic Ohrid you can stomach it, the experience and the views you
We have some of the Lake. The fleet is made up of traditional boats, catamarans receive in return for your bravery are incredible – there’s
most breathtaking and even a luxury yacht, depending on your choice of simply nothing quite like soaring through the sky with
landscapes in the tour you can visit The Bay of Bones, the Church of the Holy nothing between you and the winds. Just make sure to
country and the best way Mother at Zaum, or the Monastery of Saint Naum. All boats hold on tight to that selfie stick, or better yet, leave the
to discover them is by taking are captained by experienced and highly knowledgeable photo taking to the professionals and just appreciate the
our diverse range of guided staff who aim to make your trip on the lake one of your experience.QH‑2, Naum Ohridski 10a (Cuba Libre), tel.
tours through the majestic most memorable highlights.QD‑5, Center Port, tel. +389 +389 75 28 10 90, www.vertigo.org.mk.
78 35 62 63, www.bfcruise.mk/. 24 hours.
national park Galičica.

PASSION · EXPERIENCE · QUALITY Scuba Diving

National Park Amfora
ATV ADVENTURE OHRID Galičica National Park When it comes to water-based activities, Ohrid pretty
Camp and starting point address:
Sports Hall “Biljanini Izvori” Ohrid, Macedonia Covering an area of over 200 square kilometres and located much has it all, including the possibility to go scuba diving.
+389 78 474 656 on the mountain of the same name, this beautiful national This professional scuba diving company is based at the Bay
+389 70 650 490 park is the perfect destinations for a whole range of land- of Bones, 16km or so south of Ohrid, and offers everything
+389 78 278 797
info@atvadventureohrid.mk based activities, including hiking, mountain biking and rock- from lessons for beginners to full underwater trips to the
www.atvadventureohrid.mk climbing. The trails are easy enough to explore on your own, nearby sunken archaeological site for more experienced
ATV Adventure Ohrid and really offered some glorious vistas and invigorating fresh divers. We haven’t yet had the chance to do the latter our-
air. For more information, ask at your hotel or take a look at selves, but after seeing the eerie images it’s definitely been
the excellent www.hikingthebalkans.com.QVelestovski added to our bucket list.QH‑3, Gradishte, tel. +389 71 35
pat, tel. +389 46 26 14 73, www.galicica.org.mk. 98 10, www.amfora.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
of petrol-driven beasts that make an incredible racket and
ATVs that are extremely good fun to drive. Although at the risk
of sounding like killjoys, do always remember to put safety
ATV Adventure first – Macedonia has fine hospitals, but you probably don’t
If you’ve a thirst for adventure and fancy whizzing about want to spend the rest of your holiday in one.QF‑5, Bilja‑
on a dirt buggy then look no further than ATV Adven- nini Izvori Sportski Centar, tel. +389 78 23 27 70.
ture. Established by a trio of childhood friends they pro-
vide group or private tours where you can experience
breathtaking landscapes from the seat of some of the
most fun vehicles around. The 550 cc buggies are easy Kayaking
to drive and suitable for experienced and inexperienced Kayaking Ohrid B&F Cruise is offering
drivers. You’ll be in the safe hands of a friendly and expe- There’s arguably no better way to discover the beauty of a variety of scenic boat
rienced guide whose knowledge of the Galičica National Ohrid and its namesake lake than out on the water itself. tours focusing on the
Park will surely make up one of the best, action-packed If you’re up for a bit of physical exertion, then messing
days of your Macedonia trip.QF‑5, Sport Hall Biljanini about in a kayak is a great way to spend a few hours or historical heritage of
Izvori, tel. +389 78 47 46 56, www.atvadventureohrid. even longer. This professional company organises all Ohrid and the natural
mk. Open 08:00-18:00. manner of interesting kayak excursions and also bicycle
rental, boat tours, hiking in the mountains and much
wonders of Ohrid Lake
more. If you opt for a kayak rental and decide to explore and National Park
Karting on your own, do keep in mind which side of the lake is Galičica.
Macedonia, lest you run aground on the opposite shore
Rimo Karting and have to explain your illegal entry attempt to Alba- + 389 70 650 490
Do you have an inherent need for speed? Have you got nian police. QD‑4, Dimitar Vlahov 20, tel. +389 77 48 + 389 78 474 656
an adrenaline deficiency that needs immediate correc- 58 12, www.mywayohrid.mk.
+ 389 78 356 263
tion? Did you just watch Fast and the Furious 27: Mumbai
Muscle Cars on the hotel telly and now have the sudden, B & F Cruise
irresistible urger to tear up come asphalt? Well, lucky for you More online www.bfcruise.mk
Ohrid’s got its own outdoor karting track! Found just south
of the centre, the complex has got a complete collection macedonia.inyourpocket.com
24 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 25
 Where To Stay Where To Stay
Villa White Lake necessary facilities plus restaurant, bicycle hire, billiards and
Featuring a range of air-conditioned rooms all coming with a lovely outdoor swimming pool. The nice gentleman who
en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet and some with an owns this place also has a couple of other hotels in Ohrid and
additional refrigerator, at barely 200m from the Old Town can help arrange all sorts of activities as well as rent you a car
and overlooking the lake, this nice little place is a definite and take you on a catamaran trip. The hotel is a few kilome-
contender for those looking for a decently priced hotel in tres south of the town centre, making taxis (about 300den)
the middle of the action. There’s the added bonus of free essential for those without their own transport.QH‑2, Sv Ste‑
parking here and a laundry service should you require it, fan bb, tel. +389 46 20 97 10, www.hotelfilip.mk. A­P
although there’s not much in the way of in-house eating ­X­T­L­W­K­H­C­
and drinking options. If you want to splash out, we recom-
mend the snug little apartment at the top of the building Granit
complete with a balcony overlooking the water.QE‑5, Kej This classic Yugoslav-era lakeside holiday behemoth is in
Makedonija 18, tel. +389 46 25 09 19. P­J­W the final stages of being brought completely up to date,
and if you don’t mind the location you could do consid-
erably worse than parking your pyjamas here. Complete
Upmarket with a grand piano in reception and a massive restaurant
terrace overlooking the water, expect extras including an
Aura (Beton) outdoor swimming pool, private harbour and a range of
Just south of town and right up close to the water’s edge, this well appointed rooms, some with large balconies com-
completely renovated hotel features a total of 68 rooms and plete with a lovely view of the water.QH‑2, Sveti Stefan
a couple of suites, all complete with minibars, en suite bath- bb, tel. +389 46 20 71 00, www.hotelgranit.com.mk.
rooms and all mod cons plus extra living rooms and Jacuzzis P­X­T­B­L­W­K­H­C­F
in the aforementioned suites. There’s guarded parking., a
It’s easy to crawl out of bed in the morning, when you know you can throw open your shutters and gaze upon the cobbled streets of the
old town, photo by Pargovski Jove / Shutterstock.com Macedonian restaurant serving great food and excellent wine, Hotel & Spa Tino Sveti Stefan
a coffee bar with outdoor terrace and much more. A taxi to The upmarket Tino Sveti Stefan Hotel & Spa is a great place
Not surprisingly for such a busy and popular resort, accommo- edge of the lake, the rooms and suites here are all that you the centre never costs more than 200den plus there’s always to stay for those looking for a bit of extra pampering during
dation options in Ohrid and the surrounding region are numer- could ever wish for, with a host of extras including free wire- the option of following the pretty path for those with the their time in Ohrid. The well-appointed rooms offer expect-
ous and diverse. There are beds galore, with more than enough less internet inside and out, a restaurant complete with large energy.QH‑2, Sveti Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 73 65, www. edly glorious views over the lake, and our favourite amenities
variety to keep everyone’s budgets and dispositions perfectly summer terrace serving traditional Macedonian cuisine and hotelbeton.mk/en/index.shtml. A­P­L­W­K­ are the outdoor and indoor pools. There’s a full spa and fitness
satisfied. Be warned though that many places are only open the added bonus of free parking. Although you’ll find it dif- centre with free access for guests, as well as a children’s play-
during the height of the tourist season and the best bargains ficult to find anything but a great hotel breakfast in Ohrid, the Belvedere ground and various business facilities, and if you’d like to take
get snapped up quickly, with some tour operators even going ones here come especially recommended.QKej Makedonija A few kilometres out of the centre on the main road towards a dip in the lake, the beach is just across the street.QH‑2, Sveti
so far as to book out entire hotels for a week or more. The fol- 4, tel. +389 46 20 99 00, www.novariviera.mk/. A­P­X St. Naum, this glorious hotel with large balconies overlooking Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 20 93 40, www.hoteltino-svstefan.
lowing places represent the tip of the iceberg, but should offer ­B­J­W­K the lake offers a collection of well appointed rooms with ter- com. A­P­X­T­W ­K­H­C­D­F­­
enough diversity for all. If you’re travelling on a tight budget, rific views and all mod cons. The friendly staff will bend over
make sure your hotel has air conditioning if you plan to visit Vila Tabana backwards to accommodate bleary-eyed guests in search of Park Golden View
during the height of the summer season and take note that Nestling in among Ohrid’s narrow winding streets and very coffee in the middle of the night who are too impatient to Offering an excellent choice of rooms, suites and apart-
several of the hotels listed here are located in the small settle- close to the lake, first impressions about Villa Tabana can be wait for breakfast, and the location is a blessing during the ments with either a mountain or a lake view and some
ment of Lagadin some 10km or so south of the main action. deceiving. The combined reception and café-bar is dark, but high season when the over-populated centre thumps and coming with their own spacious balconies, this superb
offers a welcome escape from the heat and hordes outside vibrates to the miscellaneous rhythms of hedonism long into hotel just to the south of Ohrid is located in a lovely seclud-
and, if you can be bothered to wander to the far end, features the night. A taxi in or out of the action currently costs just ed spot right on the edge of the lake and features good,
200den.QH‑2, Sv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 77 10, www. business-like rooms with all the trimmings plus a galaxy of
Mid-range a balcony with picture-perfect views to die for. The rooms
are nothing special, but they do at least include everything hotelbelvedere.com.mk. A­P­T­U­L­W­K­H­ other treats including outdoor swimming pool, free park-
Cingo you need, plus the friendly people who run the place can ar- ing, tennis court and, for those who want to ride in and
A range of excellent value doubles and suites on the northern range everything from airport transfers to guided tours. Do City Palace out of town and keep fit at the same time, bicycle rental.
edge of the Old Bazaar, all coming with everything neces- be aware though that some of the bars in the immediate area There’s understated opulence in abundance here in every- QH‑2, Naum Ohridski 10A, tel. +389 77 63 16 32, www.
sary for a comfortable stay without too much luxury, extras are loud and stay open late.QCar Samoil 11, tel. +389 70 26 thing from the colourful bedspreads to the chandeliers in the parkgoldenview.com.mk. A­P ­L­W­C­
here include an in-house bar and restaurant, free parking 10 01. A­P­L­W­ restaurant. Overlooking the lake and featuring a wealth of in-
and a handy 24-hour reception for when you drag yourself house health options including spa centre, Jacuzzi and sauna, Royal View Villa
home in the middle of the night. If you’re staying in town Villa Marko (Vila Tino) there’s also a small conference facility and the chance to book The Royal View prides itself on setting the highest stan-
during the height of the holiday season and want to be away The sleepy village of Trpejca lies at the the south end of the a massage if you really want to relax. As one would expect dards for hospitality in the city, and is the end result of the
from the noise but close to the action, Cingo is an excellent lake, past the Bay of Bones and just a short jaunt from the Al- from a hotel of this quality, all of the rooms come equipped hard work and dedication put forth by the Sotiroski fam-
choice.QD‑3, Abas Emin 3, tel. +389 46 25 00 01, www. banian border. It addition to its overall charm, it offers some of with free wireless internet and well appointed bathrooms. ily, who returned from Australia several decades ago, first
hotelcingomk.seasonsnseasons.com/. A­P­W­K­ the best swimming around, with a handful of beachside res- QE‑5, Kej Makedonija 31, tel. +389 46 20 05 20, www. opening a restaurant and ice cream shop, before open-
taurants that are perfect for while away long afternoons and citypalacehotel.mk. A­P ­X­T­B­E­L­J­W­K­D­ ing the waterfront hotel in 2007. In addition to the royal
Nova Riviera boozy evenings. If this sounds like your kind of holiday, make a views offered from balconies in every bright, airy room,
Situated in a near-perfect location midway along the gentle booking a Villa Marko and off you go.QH‑4, Naselba Trpejca Filip there’s an excellent restaurant and modern spa centre.
sweeping bay in the very centre of town and right on the bb, tel. +389 46 20 93 40. A­P­B­J­W­K­ Hotel Filip is your classic waterside hotel and features a choice QE‑5, Jane Sandanski 2, tel. +389 46 26 30 72, www.
of renovated rooms, studios and apartments with all the royalview.com.mk. A­P­X­T­B­W­K

26 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 27

 Where To Stay Vevčani
The sleepy mountain town of Vevčani may be home scale, with centuries-old brick houses set along nar-
to only some 2400 inhabitants, but it‘s one of the row, winding lanes, and there are quite a few excellent
more interesting and peculiar destinations anywhere traditional Macedonian restaurants, which are popular
in the country. Nestled amongst the mountains at with the city folk from the lakeside below.
over 1000m above sea level and only 14km northwest
of Struga and Lake Ohrid, the town and its people have
always been a bit different. They still speak their own
Vevčani-Radožda dialect, and have twice become an Restaurants
independent republic (of sorts) within the past three Via Ignatia
decades. The first time was after the breakup of Yu- Restaurant Via Ignatia has been welcoming guests for
goslavia, with the proclamation of the Independent over 30 years and have rightly earned themselves a
Republic of Vevčani, including the advent of their own reputation for high quality food and service. Located
flag and coat of arms, before shortly thereafter being just a few kilometres from the Ohrid coast and away
absorbed into the Struga municipality. The second from the city noise, their restaurant can cater for up to
attempt at statehood saw the quasi micronation of 150 guests who can enjoy dining in the beautiful and
Vevčani reborn in an attempt to further develop the unspoiled natural surroundings. Also on the premises
tourism sector in 2000, which was apparently success- is a small zoo where different types of birds can be
ful, since we‘re writing this story on the terrace of a observed and a park for children. Their menu offers a
lovely restaurant in the centre of Vevčani and you‘re good choice of warm and cold starters, salads, grilled
reading it with presumably at least some interest in meats and fish, plus some house specialities of tradi-
one day visiting. tional Macedonian cuisine.QVevčani, tel. +389 71 30
Political novelty aside, Vevčani is best known for its 54 16, www.viaignatia.mk/. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
natural springs, found just to the west of town, as well Sat 10:00 - 01:00. P­T ­B ­E ­S ­L ­W ­K
as its annual Carnival of Vevčani, which takes place
from 12-14 January and has existed for more than 1400
years, making it one of the oldest and largest events of Read more about Vevčani online at
its kind in the region or anywhere in Europe as far as
we know. The town itself is on an expectedly modest
iyp.me/ohrid
Su (Denarius) you need, plus the friendly people who run the place can ar-
Wrapped in plastic and packed with busy construction work- range everything from airport transfers to guided tours. Do be
ers when we dropped by, the former Hotel Denarius close aware though that some of the bars in the immediate area are
to the town centre and right on the waterfront promises a loud and stay open late.QH‑2, Lagadin, tel. +389 78 47 46
wealth of all mod cons when it finally opens its doors in time 56, www.vilabisera.mk. A­P­L­W­K­C­F­
for the busy summer season. The owners run several other
tourist-orientated activities in Ohrid of which all are of the Vila Mina
highest quality, and we have no doubt their new hotel will be A popular choice with visiting groups and situated very close
of the same calibre.QE‑5, Kej Makedonija 91a, tel. +389 46 to the lake, the well equipped rooms and studio apartments
25 86 84, www.suhotel.mk/. A­P­B­J­W­K­ here are lovely places to spend the night in with little extras
including kettles and bigger extras including a gorgeous out-
Tino door swimming pool with great views of Lake Ohrid and the
Located on prime waterfront real estate just a few steps from nearby mountains. Despite being a little way out of town and
the main square, Tino is a Ohrid mainstay with some 50 rooms therefore possibly requiring the frequent use of a cheap taxi,
offers great views and easy access to the lake. Apartments are there are plenty of good reasons to stay here, among them
also available for those who would like a bit more space, and if the regular garden barbecues that really make a stay here
you’d really like to impress that special someone, try to reserve something special.QH‑3, Lagadin, tel. +389 46 27 04 44,
the VIP penthouse suite. There’s a fine restaurant, and guests www.vilamina.com.mk/. A­P­B­L­W­K­C­
can also take advantage of the spa centre.QE‑5, Kej Make‑
donija 55, tel. +389 46 23 04 50, www.hoteltino.com.mk. Villa Dea
A­P­B ­J­W­K­ This hugely popular hotel isn’t loved by everyone for nothing
thanks to the fabulous combination of location, design, service
Vila Bisera and choice if offers its guest. The room options are quite incred-
Nestling in among Ohrid’s narrow winding streets and very ible in fact, with something for everyone and a touch of flair in
close to the lake, first impressions about Villa Tabana can be the more expensive rooms that really do make the place spe-
deceiving. The combined reception and café-bar is dark, but cial. The continental breakfast is one of the better ones in town
offers a welcome escape from the heat and hordes outside and the company that owns the hotel also runs a specialist tour
and, if you can be bothered to wander to the far end, features company offering lots of things to see and do in both the town
a balcony with picture-perfect views to die for. The rooms and the surrounding region.QE‑5, Kej Makedonija 40, tel.
are nothing special, but they do at least include everything +389 46 26 52 51, www.deatours.com.mk/. P­X­J­W­

28 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 29

 Kruševo

Kruševo is a true paragliding paradise, photo by Sco

A spellbinding 120km drive through the mountains from town on the proverbial map in recent years. With unspoilt na-
Ohrid and close on three hours south of the capital, at 1,350m ture and optimal conditions for all levels of flight, Kruševo’s para-
above sea level the beautiful town of Kruševo is the highest gliding scene has won the rave reviews and featured on count-
settlement in Macedonia. Steeped in revolutionary history less top ten lists, including in the pages of National Geographic.
and featuring several sights dedicated to the 1903 Ilinden Up- In 2016, it hosted the 14th FAI European Paragliding Champi-
rising and the short-lived Kruševo Republic that followed it, onship, and in August 2019 the World Championship will take
people flock to Kruševo all year round thanks to its unique place here, so you might very well be running out of time to visit
architecture, great food, winter skiing and the proud fact that before it joins Ohrid on the well-trodden tourist path.
it counts among one of the top locations in the world for para-
gliding. The birthplace of the locally renowned painter Nikola Heli XC Paragliding
Martinoski and the late Balkan singing sensation Toše Proeski, Qtel. +389 70 333 859.
a trip to Macedonia without a visit to Kruševo is almost un-
thinkable. Friendly, affordable, exotic and boasting a surprising
variety of things to see and do, the following provides a good
introduction to one of our favourite places in the Balkans. Restaurants & Cafés
The town centre features a number of places to get a quick
pizza or kebap if you’re not planning to stay too long. If
Hotels you’ve got time on your hands however the following res-
taurants provide outstanding food that’s best enjoyed at a
Hotel Montana leisurely pace. Kruševo’s nightlife could be better. A hand-
This centrally located hotel comes with stunning views of ful of lively bars on the main square open late during the
the scenery from a range of rooms to suit all tastes. Not ex- weekends and provide arguably the best options for drink-
actly geared up for winter sports, the hotel is best enjoyed ing and meeting new people.
by people looking for a simple break away from the city or
outdoor types visiting for the hiking, trekking, cycling and Krushevska Odaja
rock climbing that’s popular hereabouts. The hotel also fea- The classic rural restaurant as seen all over the country, drop
tures a number of bars and restaurants serving traditional by for traditional cuisine to keep you both satisfied and in-
Macedonian food. A great choice for a place to base your- sulated from the cold outside. The food is magnificent,
self when in the region.QPitu Guli bb, tel. +389 48 47 71 with the menu featuring several interesting and unusual
21, www.montanapalace.com. local dishes. There’s often live music performed during the
evenings. Find it tucked away from the road on the left as
you head up the hill to the Makedonium and Toše Proeski
Paragliding Memorial House.QTodor Proeski 71, tel. +389 75 42 19 46.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.
While Kruševo is best known in Macedonia and the Balkans as
the being the birthplace of Toše Proeski, when it comes to Eu- Pizza RomaQIlindenska 39, Krushevo, tel. +389 48 476
ropean and global recognition, paragliding is what has put the 519, www.pizzaromakrusevo.com/. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

30 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 31

 Struga Macedonian Wine
thoroughly recommend you take advantage of it. Home to the
annual international Struga Poetry Evenings held every August
and perched at the confluence of the Black Drin River and Lake
Ohrid, as well as the selection of recommended places to visit
listed below we also recommend you spend a little bit of time
exploring the Old Bazaar and getting to see at least one of the
centuries-old historical mosques. Neither of the two museums
written about here have explanations in English.

Church of St Gjorgi
Built in 1835 on the site of a much earlier church, this rather
simple-looking building conceals a wealth of beauty inside
in the form of several icon paintings dating back to the 15th
century that were discovered in the attic during reconstruc-
St Michael the Archangel Cave Church, photo from Wikicommons tion work in 1993. Most impressive of all the icons on dis-
play is that of the church’s namesake, painted in 1267 and
Some 15km or so north of Ohrid, the popular tourist resort considered to possess miraculous qualities. The church is
of Struga offers a unique and fascinating wealth of things located at the far western end of the Old Bazaar close to the Macedonian is one of Europe’s great undiscovered wine destinations
to see and do when in the region. Steeped in historical indoor market.QMarshal Tito bb, Struga.
significance and the birthplace of several well known his- Macedonia boasts a near-perfect climate for growing wine duces everything from Syrah, to Vranec to Chardonnay to Sau-
torical figures including Vlado Malevski, the man who wrote Dr Nikola Nezlobinski Museum
Nikola Nezlobinski was a native Russian doctor who came grapes and produces some 100,000 tonnes of them annually vignon Blanc. Particularly active in the tourist industry, Kamnik
the words to the Macedonian national anthem, Struga can in vineyards covering a total area of over 30,000 hectares. Add offers several opportunities to taste their wines and it’s also
be treated as both a short excursion from its more illustri- to Struga in 1924 to help fight malaria and who became a
fanatical collector of the local flora and fauna, the result be- to these statistics the fact that the country’s also responsible possible to get a complete tour of their vineyard.QKamnik
ous neighbour to the south and a destination in itself with for some of the best food in Southern Europe and you’ll start bb, tel. +389 22 52 35 22, www.chateaukamnik.com. Open
plenty of good accommodation options to base yourself in. ing this fascinating little museum. Not only are the scores
of animals and plants frozen in time here, the exhibition to understand why wine is such an important part of the cul- 08:00 - 16:00. P­A­I­L­K­W
cabinets themselves seems to come from another age. The ture and why the local stuff is so good. Around 80 percent of
scruffy building on the corner holds most of the exhibits the wine produced in the country is red, with nearly all of both Sopot
Eat & Drink with a few more held in the much grander administration the red and white originating from the vineyards of Povarda-
rie, Pčinja-Osogovo and Pelagonija-Polog. With both its long
A small boutique winery founded just over a decade ago that
focuses on exclusive wines that are available only in high class
There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in Struga. building across the street.QBore Hadzieski - Pute 69,
Struga, tel. +389 46 786 644, www.museumstruga.mk/. history and popularity in the country, wine is a subject that restaurants and hotels in Macedonia and abroad, Sopot priori-
Here are three particular favourites, all of them located many people know a lot about, including most of the waiters tises quality over quantity and produces an impressive range
along the same short stretch of river. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon.
working in the vast majority of the restaurants mentioned in of reds, whites and rosés including Cabernet Sauvignon, Ries-
Miladinov Brothers Memorial House this guide. If you need any help, there’s plenty around. Person- ling, Chardonnay and Temjanika. Visiting their vineyard for
Pizzeria Angela ally we’re a bit traditional and prefer to drink Vranec, a dry red wine-tasting events and cellar tours is available by appoint-
Inside a fabulous old building, this better than average The brothers Dimitar Miladinov (1810-1862) and Konstantin
Miladinov (1830-1862) were Bulgarian poets and folklor- made from the grape of the same name that’s among the ment only.QMunicipality of Veles, tel. +389 78 36 31 67,
pizza restaurant features a beautifully restored interior and most popular in the country. We’re no experts, it just happens www.chateausopot.mk. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
a menu of dishes that go far beyond pizza. The signature ists from Struga whose strongly contested legacy from
their early days through to their tragic deaths in prison is to go down very well with grilled meat, fresh salad, white bread
dish in question here is cooked in a proper wood oven and and white cheese. The following producers all come highly Stobi
will keep you satisfied for hours. Try to grab a table by the celebrated from the Macedonian point of view in this in-
teresting museum housed inside a beautifully renovated, recommended and their products can be found in shops, bars New kid on the block Stobi is already turning out an impres-
water if you can.QDimitar Vlahov 2, Struga, tel. +389 70 and restaurants in Skopje and all over Macedonia. As you’ll see, sive 4.5 million litres of wine in four distinct categories of which
603 705. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. centuries-old house. Downstairs is a permanent display of
floor mosaics from a basilica dating from the 5th or 6th cen- some of them also offer wine tours which are a great way to their Premium varieties include Syrah Barrique, Merlot Barrique,
tury discovered in the nearby village of Oktisi approximately get to know the country, its culture and its drinking habits. Aminta and Vranec Veritas. Dedicated to sharing their love and
Sv. Nikola experiences with the rest of the world, Stobi, that also features
Complete with traditional costumes and musical instru- 10km northwest of Struga.QMarshal Tito bb, Struga.
Bovin a restaurant on its territory, organises a wide range of events in-
ments on the walls, Sv. Nikola offers the full Macedonian Macedonia’s first privately built winery was established in cluding tours and corporate functions.QAvtopat 2, Gradsko,
experience inside a building that’s seen better days but St Michael the Archangel Cave Church
An extraordinary church inside a cave overlooking Lake 1998 and has a capacity of 1.5 million bottles a year split tel. +389 78 22 14 27, www.stobiwinery.mk.
that doesn’t seem to matter once you’re absorbed in the between around 70% red and 30% white. Aimed at high-
atmosphere. Expect big portions of every Macedonian fa- Ohrid, the origins of this richly painted masterpiece have
been lost although it’s known that at least one of the fres- end consumers, their wines, including Vranec, Cabernet Vinarska Vizba Tikveš
vourite under the sun, although do be prepared to wait an Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir are exported all over the The history of this classic winery dates back to the second
excruciatingly long time when it’s busy.QGoce Delchev cos inside dates from the 13th century. Absolutely worth
the time and effort spent getting there, to find it drive west world. Bovin also produces rakija and the company offers half of the 19th century and a time when the organised pro-
bb, Struga, tel. +389 78 362 720. special wine-tasting events for groups of between 10 and duction and sale of wine in Macedonia is first recognised
out of Struga to the village of Kališta. Turn right at the Izgrev
Hotel sign, then left at the next Izgrev Hotel sign and follow 60 people.QIndustriska bb, Negotino, tel. +389 43 36 53 to have started. Producing a staggering array of products
the road all the way to the bottom. Located inside a mon- 22, www.bovin.com.mk. from high-end wine to table wines to rakija, organised
See astery complex, walk through the main gate and ignore the
Kamnik
wine tours here involve a history of the company and sev-
eral different options for groups and individuals in their
Struga provides a surprisingly large amount of culture for a signs to the church. If you find yourself standing in front of
the Hotel Biser you walked too far. The church is located Founded in 2004, Kamnik produces a number of reds, whites, lovely wine cellar.Q29-ti Noemvri 5, Kavadarci, tel. +389
place of its size, and when you’re not taking advantage of the sparkling wines and a cheeky rosé sold under the name Sexy. 23 17 59 66/+389 43 44 75 00, www.tikves.com.mk.
town’s three beaches or stuffing your face with kebap we directly behind the chapel in the monastery courtyard.
Someone will come and let you in.QRadožda, Struga. Their 15 hectares of vineyards form part of an estate that pro- Open o8:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. P­A­W

32 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 33

 Macedonian Brands

Anne08 / Shutterstock.com

Most Europeans might have a fair bit of difficulty accurately

finding Macedonia on a map, but the country does have
quite a few large firms that have become industry leaders
within the region, and have also increasingly begun selling
their products even further afield. Renowned for the quality
of its cuisine, it’s no surprise that many of these companies
come from the food production sector. We take a brief look
at the stories behind a few of them here.

Bimilk
If you consume any milk, cheese or other dairy products whilst
in Macedonia, the chances are quite good that it was made by
the folks at Mlekarna Bitola (Bitola Dairy, or just Bimilk for short),
as they are by far the largest producer of such goods in the
country. Founded in 1952, the company combines the Balkans’
long and storied tradition of dairy production with modern
facilities and adherence to strict EU standards, and have also
been repeatedly recognised at the EU level for their various
various social and environmental responsibility programmes.
With some two-thirds of the country covered in moun-
tainous or hilly terrain, the local Busha breed of cows are
compact, hardy and efficient in terms of milk production,
having roamed the region since Neolithic times and be-
longing to the Bos brachyceros europaeus subgenus of
primitive short-horned cattle. For any of our readers who
don’t happen to be zoologists, the most distinguishing fea-
ture of Bimilk’s products is Bitola Chupa (or the Bitola Girl in
local dialect), the adorable mascot who travels around the
world a la Dora the Explorer in order to teach Macedonian
children about both nutrition and geography. If you were to

www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 35
 Macedonian Brands Directory
sample but one item from Bimilk’s extensive offering, we’d
recommend the Bitolski ovchi kashkaval, a traditional hard
yellow sheep cheese with 45% milk fat.
Ohrid unplugged Dentist
Free wireless internet access in Ohrid’s hotels, bars and
restaurants is widespread and you’ll never be more than Dr Batkoski
10 minutes away from a good connection. Both 3G and
Pelisterka 4G services are also available, although data roaming is far
In between your regular check-ups you never know
when you might find yourself in need of a dentist.
from cheap in Macedonia. If you really need a data connec- Located in the city centre Dr Batkoski and his team
When it comes to consumer goods these days, it wouldn’t tion a good idea is to consider buying a prepaid Macedo- offer the very best in dental care and specialised or-
be an exaggeration to say that bottled water is the new nian SIM card with a built-in data plan. All three providers thodontist procedures. Prosthetics, oral surgeries and
black, with sales records being reached year after year offer this service, although beware you generally need to laser dentistry are all undertaken on the premises and
across the globe. This makes it all the more difficult to stand provide ID when buying a local SIM card. they can even brighten your smile in just 30 minutes.
out from the competition, but Macedonia’s market leader QF-2, Marko Nestoroski 147,+389 46 23 00 79, con‑
and oldest producer, Pelisterka, does just that. How? Well, Central Post Office tact@drbatkoski.mk, www.drbatkoski.mk. Open
at the risk of sounding superficial, for us the most impor- Q D-4, Bul. Makedonski Prosvetiteli 6, +389 46 27 31 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun.
tant aspect is purely an aesthetic one, as we’re quite fond 57,www.posta.com.mk. Open 07:00-19:00, Sun Closed.
of both the design of the bottles and the font on the label-
ling – especially the sparkling water that comes in striking Ohrid General Hospital BulgariaQB‑4, Zlatko Shnejder 3, tel. +389 23 22
dark green glass bottles. It also probably doesn’t hurt that Q F-2, Sirma Vojvoda 1, +389 46 26 72 67, obohrid@ 94 44, www.mfa.bg/embassies/macedonia. Open
they’ve made Severina, one of the region’s most famous zdravstvo.gov.mk, www.bolnicaohrid.com.mk 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
personalities, their brand ambassador.
Subjective visual elements and celebrity endorsements FranceQTodor Aleksandrov 165, tel. +389 23 24
aside, Pelisterka’s technical specifications and history are 43 00, www.mk.ambafrance.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
also an important part of the story. Bottled near Bitola in the Foreign Closed Sat, Sun.
far south of Macedonia, the water originates from a spring
in the Pelister National Park, which itself is the oldest and representations GermanyQLerinska 59, tel. +389 23 09 39 00, www.
second largest national park in the country, taking its name Find a full list on our website. skopje.diplo.de. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
from the 2601m Mt Pelister. With diverse flora and fauna
that include bears, deer, eagles, chamois and even wolves AlbaniaQE‑1, Slavej Planina 2, tel. +389 23 24 67 26, Greece (Liaison Office)QB‑3, Borka Taleski 6,
calling it home, the park is one of the most idyllic destina- www.ambasadat.gov.al/republic-of-macedonia. Open tel. +389 23 21 92 60, www.mfa.gr/missionsabroad/
tions in the region, and thanks to the unique geological 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. en/fyrom-en.
makeup of the rocky terrain, the water that emanates from
the spring possesses a special chemical composition and
is said to have certain medicinal properties. For our less
health-conscious readers, Pelistirka also produces a variety
of soda, juices and other beverages.

Vitaminka
Vitaminka has been one of Macedonia’s most recognisable
and respected consumer goods producers for generations.
Founded in 1956 in the town of Prillep, the fourth largest
city in the country, located 110km east of Ohrid and 130km
south of Skopje, Vitaminka got its start as a producer of
ground red pepper, but quickly diversified into other food-
stuffs. Nowadays it operates under the slogan “world of
tastes”, and is determined to bring from the flavours and
tastes of Macedonia to the rest of the world. Its products
are currently found in some 30 countries worldwide, with
half of its sales coming from abroad. Its most popular and
iconic brand is probably Stobi Flips (a type of crunchy corn
puff crisps with peanut flavour), but it also has some 350
different products ranging from snacks, chocolate and
candies to soups, condiments and teas. Make sure to try a
box of Atlantis sea shell chocolates, especially if you’re by
the lake in Ohrid. They come in a variety of flavours, but our
personal favourite

36 Ohrid In Your Pocket ohrid.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/InYourPocket 2018/2019 37

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According to the standards of general mineral analysis, Pelisterka
belongs to the group of low-mineral hidrocarbon magnocalciums.
As well, it belongs to the group of mineral drinking tonic water, with
low mineralization that can be consumed during the process of
hydrotherapeutic treatment.
This type of water is suitable for: 02/4%#4)/.̉&2/-̉%84%2.!,̉).&,5%.#%3̉
•chronic gastritis •chronic pancreatitis 7)4(̉.)42/'%.̉#/!4).'̉/&̉7!4%2
•peptic ulcer and duodenum, without any complications •diabetes mellitus
•chronic liver disease and chronic gall disease •chronic urinary tract infections

Considering all these characteristics, quality represents a natural asset

of the sparkling water Pelisterka, which is constantly bottled in the village
Medjitlija, near Bitola.

Simply, Pelisterka is a perfect connection of millenial tradition, lots of

accumulated energy of nature and health.
carbonated and non-carbonated mineral water "Pelisterka" is ideal
The carbona
for healthy satisfaction of the needs of the body for water, then it can serve
as an important source of minerals and helps in the treatment of diseases
of the digestive system and urinary tract.

www.pelisterka.com.mk
pelisterka1953
a.d.pelisterka
+389-23221109
Pelisterka-Macedonian word for water
info@pelisterka.com.mk