HappySeed® - Est.

2018

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

Table of content
........................................................................................ 3
Room bonsai(Indoor) ................................................................................................ 3
Openland bonsai (Outdoor) .................................................................................... 4
Design ....................................................................................................................... 4
Replanting ................................................................................................................ 4
.................................................................................. 5
................................................................................................ 5
Care ........................................................................................................................... 6
Watering and fertilizing........................................................................................... 6
Repotting................................................................................................................... 7
The ideal Soil ............................................................................................................ 7
The Bonsai - Bowl ................................................................................................. 8
Outdoor - Location ................................................................................................. 8
Protective measures against diseases ................................................................. 9
Room bonsai (Indoor) ............................................................................................... 9
Underplanting ........................................................................................................... 9
Safe treatment on holiday ...................................................................................... 10
The Room bonsai - Care calender for the whole year ....................................... 11

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

Pulling Bonsai from seeds

The long history of bonsai design has its origins in Asia. Since we are now in our latitudes living indoors than
outdoors once more, tropical plants have been turned into miniature trees for several decades .

These so-called "Indoors" are a fascinating enrichment for the peop-

le in the cities, who long for nature and do not only want to animate
their home with the usual potted plants.

Tropical and subtropical plants are ideal for this because their
growth takes place almost without a break.
People who have the possibility to put a bonsai outside - i.e. an
"outdoor", that sheds its leaves in winter and is bound to our seasons
- will also find very interesting species in Tropica.

Especially when growing bonsai from seeds, the big chance is to in-
fluence the shape of the tree from the beginning. It may take longer
for a tree to grow from a seed, but when flat shells are used for gro-
wing, they grow more compactly than shoots sought in the forest.

Room bonsai (Indoor)

Very hard-shelled seeds such as camellia, Mediterranean pine, olive
tree, gold pine, tamarind and powder puff should be pre-treated by Japanese azalea as bonsai
lightly roughening the seeds with sandpaper or a file and then letting them swell for 12-20 hours in room-
warm water. For myrtle, orange-jasmine, dwarf orange or rose seeds and dwarf pomegranate seeds, pre-
swelling in room-warm water overnight is sufficient. Soft or very fine seeds such as Jacaranda or Australian
pine do not require pre-treatment. You can sprinkle these seeds directly onto the moist growing soil and
then cover them very thinly with the same soil.

Sowing in clay granulate has also proved successful. To do this, take a waterproof container (glass, bowl or
yoghurt pot), fill 3/4 of it with the granulate, place the seeds on top and cover them again with a thin layer of
granulate. The container is filled with water that constantly covers 1/2 cm of the ground. Now the vessel is
covered with transparent foil or a glass pane and kept warm so that a greenhouse effect is achieved.

When sowing in soil, the container should only be covered at night. During the day it should be open so that
air can reach the ground. The germination period is very different for the different seed species. With uni-
form humidity and heat (20° - 25° C), some seeds can germinate after 10 to 14 days - others such as hard-
shelled seeds usually germinate after 4 to 10 weeks.

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018
And even if your seedlings have already developed, there are still "stragglers" - so don't empty the seed
container immediately. It is important for all seedlings to avoid draughts and direct sunlight.

As soon as the first 4 to 5 leaves or side shoots appear, the young plants are individually placed in pots or
bowls (pricked). The joy of the first seedlings can quickly be clouded if they fall over without any apparent
reason. This is mostly caused by seeds that are sown too
densely and whose roots obstruct each other as well as by
poor, moist soil and high humidity - all the conditions that we-
re so ideal for growing the seedlings before. Prevent this by
keeping the soil a little drier after germination, airing the con-
tainer from time to time or using a root strengthening agent.

Openlandbonsai (Outdoor)
When sowing in spring, first place the seed bag in the refri-
gerator for 2 weeks (i.e. at 5 to 8 ° C). Then soak the seeds
in water for 2 days. Now they can be sprinkled in seed trays
on growing soil and covered with a thick layer of growing soil.
In the flower boxes on the windowsill or in the garden-
embedded up to the edge of the bowl-germination takes place
under natural weather conditions. Germination in the home
takes place as described for room bonsai. Please make sure
that the young plants are not exposed to the blazing sun or
dry heating air.

Design
The aim of bonsai design is to make a good bonsai out of the young plant. If your young plant is 10 to 12 cm
tall, you can start to influence its growth.

Repotting
Before repotting into the bonsai bowl, the main root is shor-
tened by 2/3. This should result in a well defined root ball,
which is mainly wide.

a.) Root pruning; b.) Sieve and net; c.) Gravel or clay granula-
te; d.) Bonsai soil, e.) Bonsai shell;

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

Trimming the deciduous trees

Cut off the main shoot (shoot tip) at the top. Their seedling now develops new side shoots and branches. In
the following growing period, the design work on the young plant consists of forming a finely branched
crown. For this purpose, the newly formed shoots are repeatedly shortened to 2 to 3 buds. Shoots that
form further down are completely removed. With each repotting (usually every 2 years) the roots are cut
back semi-circularly by about one third.

a.) shoot tip cut

b.) Branching

c.) Crown cut

d.) root pruning

Trimming of conifers
As soon as the first side shoots have formed, the main shoot
can be removed. This increases the growth of the side shoots.
The next time the tree is repotted, it is placed diagonally into
the soil in order achieve a bonsai shape as quickly as possible.
Now the tree is allowed to grow for 2 to 3 years. Make sure
that disturbing branches are removed in time, so the branches
are left in a staggered position.

The roots of the conifers are cut as with deciduous trees. In

order to give an older appearance to the conifers, there is the
method of wire cutting. The trunk, branches and twigs which
are to be formed are spirally wrapped with soft wire. Wind
the wire tightly, but not too tightly, in even turns from bottom
to top. Now bend the branches and twigs in the desired di-
rection. This correction aid must be removed after about
three months.

Pine-Bonsai

a.) seedling

b.) Cut of the main shoot

c.) Oblique potted seedling

d.) Cutting disturbing branches

e.) Strictly upright form

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018
In May the girl's pine bears powerful new shoots. Where several new shoots grow out at the same time, the
strongest candle (the shoots of pines) is completely broken out. The other shoots are plucked up to 2 or 3
needle rings.

The black pine has dense and strong needles. In the spring, the shoots set in bundles. The individual shoot
(candle) is removed between April and May, when it has reached a length of more than 3 cm. New shoots will
appear at the same place and form new bundles during the summer. It is important that the candle is comple-
tely removed in spring and not just a part of it. During the entire growth period, the juniper's new shoots are
plucked again and again, so that the juniper gets an even fresh green needle cushion.

Care
Watering and fertilizing
Pouring water, as is usual from our "normal" indoor plants,
is not sufficient for Jungbonsai's. Watering should always
be done when the upper visible soil layer of the plant is al-
most dry. During the summer they should be watered
thoroughly in the morning and evening.

It is preferable to use rainwater for pouring. If it is not

available, stagnant tap water at normal temperature can
also be used. Spraying the leaves is advisable on hot sum-
mer days.

However, too much water has an adverse effect on the

growth of the tree. Waterlogging at the roots leads to de-
Maple-Bonsai
cay and death of the plant. A good control possibility: A
healthy and well watered plant can usually be lifted easily out of the pot.

As with all plants, pouring water and spraying should be avoided in strong sunlight. During winter, when our
native trees are dormant, less water is used. Depending on location and plant species, one or two waterings
per week are sufficient.

Bonsai live in relatively little soil, which results in a rapid consumption of nutrients. For healthy growth, the
necessary nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, lime, potash, sulphur, iron and trace elements must there-
fore be supplied to the plant via the fertilizer.

Fertilizers are available in solid or liquid form. The solid organic fertilizer usually consists of a mixture of
rapeseed meal, fish meal, blood meal, bone meal, horn chips and wood ash. It is offered in balls or powder and
lasts for a few weeks - depending on the size of the plant. It is simply sprinkled over the soil and is absorbed
into the soil with pouring water.

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018
In the case of liquid fertilisers, care must be taken to ensure that the soil is moist and that the fertiliser is
absorbed, otherwise there is a risk of "burns" at the roots. Openland bonsai must never be fertilised in win-
ter! Only freshly transplanted bonsai and flowering plant species should not be fertilized during flowering -
they need a rest period of about 4 weeks.

Repotting
Depending on age and species, a bonsai should be repotted after two to five years.

Transplanting is necessary when the bonsaipot has become too small or the soil is leached out. The approp-
riate time is spring or autumn. Younger plants should be planted in a slightly larger bowl. With older bonsai
the same bowl is used again. The bonsai should be watered less before repotting.

1) Grab the tree by the trunk and

try to lift it carefully out of its
shell.

2) Now loosen the root felt all

around with a stick. With youn-
ger bonsai half of the old soil can
be removed - with older bonsai
less.

3) Now most of the exposed roots are cut off with a clean cut.

The thick main root is shortened by one third with a diagonal cut. One fifth of the shell is filled with drainage
granulate (gravel or lecatine). A thin layer of soil is placed on top of this and the bonsai is placed on it.

Carefully spread the remaining roots around the trunk in all directions. Then gradually fill all spaces with
soil. The soil should rise slightly towards the trunk.

Now the tree has to be watered carefully. Freshly potted bonsai must in any case be protected from strong
sunlight and wind for two to four weeks. Spray several times a day, as new suction roots must first form.

The ideal soil

Never use soil that has already been used for
bonsai. This soil is in most cases already very
hard and no longer sufficiently air and water
permeable. You can also mix the soil yourself.
For young plants and deciduous trees one mixes
forest soil or peat, clay (= a mixture of sand and
clay) and grainy sand in equal parts.

Yews-Bonsai

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018
These three ingredients are the perfect blend, because

• the forest soil or peat (humus) serves as breeding ground,

• the sand loosens up and the soil becomes permeable to air and water

• no waterlogging and the soil does not get muddy

• the clay has a buffering effect that holds everything together well

For plants such as pines and other cornifers or old trees that need drier soil, mix two parts of sand, one part
of peat and one part of clay.

The Bonsai - Bowl

The Bonsai bowl is almost the same as the frame for a picture. Fortunately, there are some rules of thumb
for the selection of planters:

• Always make sure that the shells are unglazed on the inside and that they have one or more vent holes
in the bottom. This allows the roots to
"breathe" and prevents waterlogging
which could lead to decay of the roots.

• It is important that the plant and the

bonsai bowl are in a harmonious pro-
portion to one another. This means that
a tree of 20 cm height is not in a bowl
which is 20 cm high or wide. The bowl
should be wider than deep so that the
roots can spread, but not grow deep
into the ground, thus making the tree
too big.

• There are rectangular, square, round

and oval shells. Upright bonsai, for exa-
Juniper bonsai in moon bowl
mple, fit perfectly into flat oval or rectan-
gular shells.

Outdoor - Location
The best place for a bonsai is on the terrace, balcony or garden with morning sun. The afternoon sun causes
the small plant shells to dry out too quickly. If only one side of the bonsai is facing the light, it should be tur-
ned every 14 days to achieve even growth. If an outdoor bonsai is brought into the apartment, it should be put
outside again after one week latest. The tree needs weather influences such as sun, wind and rain to develop
properly.

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

Protective measures against diseases

The most common disease is root decay. It manifests itself through yellow-brown leaves or needles, but can
also cause whole branches to die.

It is mostly caused by moisture standing in the bowl. In this case the bonsai must be repotted immediately. All
rotten root parts and the upper plant parts are removed. During the next weeks you should water the plant
only moderately and place it in a protected area.

If your bonsai is once attacked by insects, fungi and bacteria, the commercially available pesticides will help.
Proper bonsai care is still the best way to prevent disease and pest infestation.

Room bonsai (Indoor)

The most suitable room bonsai are all small-leaved tropical and subtropical trees and shrubs whose home
climate best suits our living climate. We have known some plant species for decades as pot plants. The sub-
tropical - generally the most common species for bonsai - should be between +5°C and +12°C in the winter
months. During this time they take a break from growth. We recommend a bright place: bedroom, hallway or
winter garden.

During the months of summer, room bonsai thrive well outdoors, as they find sufficient light and humidity.

Evaporation trays are provided for room bonsai. You

should also sprinkle the bonsai more often, as this
also increases the humidity.

It is best to use softened water for watering. This can

be boiled or you can use an anti-limescale softener
from a specialist retailer. The water should always be
at room temperature.

Underplanting
This refers to a mossing of the soil. The moss blanket
brings out the plant more strongly and prevents the
soil from drying out too quickly.

Low moss species can be found on stones, trees and

Bonsai with mossy soil damp soils.

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

Safe treatment on holiday

Now that you have grown, nursed and taken care of a little tree, you would like to go on holiday. To a neigh-
bour or mother-in-law? Not everyone likes to entrust their bonsai to another person. Too much water can
do as much harm as too little. And many people water their bonsai too often fearing that it might die of thirst.

The safest thing to do first is not to keep your bonsai too warm or in the sun during your holiday. For a short
holiday of about a week, you should dip your little tree vigorously once so that the soil as well as the bowl can
suck full of water. Then take a tray that is about twice the size of the Bonsai bowl, fill it 1 to 2 cm high with
clay granules and moisten the granules properly. Place the bonsai on top and the ceramic bowl can absorb
moisture.

If you are one of those lucky people traveling away for 2 to 3 weeks, you should also dive the bonsai first.
Then fill a large plastic tub with wet peat or wet clay granules and place your bonsai with the bowl so deep
that the upper edge of the bowl is about 3 to 4 cm covered.

If you are going on a winter holiday, you should make sure that the heating is not switched off completely as
tropical and subtropical bonsai require temperatures around 10° C.

Even on holiday, you can always find bonsai treasures in the remotest places, here in China.

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 HappySeed® - Est. 2018

The room bonsai - Care calendar for the whole year

January Bonsai standing on the heating windowsill or exposed to a lot of dry air should
now be checked more frequently and watered or dipped.

February Like January. You should only fertilise rarely. Due to the short days you should
keep the bonsai as bright as possible or provide extra light.

March Slowly the growth begins. Weak shoots that have formed in winter should now be
cut out.

April The bonsai now needs more water for healthy growth and can be regularly fer
tilized again.

May The first new shoot can already be trimmed. Pay further attention to regular wate
ring and fertilizing. You can repot this month if necessary.

June A lot of water and fertilizer. The Bonsai may also stand quietly outside. Now cut
back fast growing bonsai.

July / August In these two months you should "dip" the Bonsai to the watering best, since the
water need is now very high. In addition, you should pay attention to a plentiful
supply of nutrients. Do not cut flowering bonsai. Bonsai that have been cut back
heal particularly well and a place outdoors is now particularly suitable even for
room bonsai. Places in semi-shade are ideal.

September The water requirement of the bonsai decreases. Strong bonsai should only lightly
be cut back.

October / October / The heating period begins and the bonsai feels good if it is sprayed with
November/ low lime water. In heated rooms you should now make sure that the soil does not
dry out. Make sure there is plenty of light.

December Make sure that the bonsai does not freeze. The plants should not be under +5° C.
Only very rarely fertilize in the winter phase.

You can find much more information on our homepage

www.happyseed.de or on https://www.instagram.com/happyseed.de/

Imprint: HappySeed® is a trademark of

Vendix®, owner Dominik Johnson
Treptower Str. 8, 32825 Blomberg
E-Mail: kontakt@happyseed.de

In addition we would like to thank the company Tropica® from Münster for providing us with the information
for this eBook. All rights to the text are reserved by Tropica® . Thanks a lot!

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