" TlCH ” - The Smallest 3-1/2in.

T H I S week, I am offering another “ request

item.” Quite a number of our readers who
started with 2-1/2in. gauge locomotives, and then
called her “ Tich ” b e c a u s e - w e l l , she just is !
She is the weeniest coal-fired steam locomotive
I have ever seen specified for this gauge ; and I
switched to 3-1/2in. gauge, have still some of the can just imaginc the roars of derisive laughter
smaller castings and parts on hand ; and several that the mere suggestion of such an engine would
have written in and asked if it would be possible have conjured up in the days gone by. Thank
to dcscrihe a small and easily-built type of con- goodness, we know bettcr now ; not only will the

Drawing by] A “pocket edition ” for

tractors’ shunting locomotive, that would run on tiny engine steam and run, but she will give you
a 3-1/2in. gauge line, hut utilise the “ surplus.” a ride, no matter what your size and weight.
In the issue of January 20th last, I mentioned The few good folk who have seen my old 2-2-2
that Mr. Leslie Clarke, late of Swindon Works, “ Ancient Lights ” in action, won’t need any
G.W.R. and now in Johannesburg, South Africa, assurance on that score ! Incidentally, this old
was building a small 3-1/2in. gauge contractors’ girl did an astounding thing on a recent afternoon.
engine, of which I hoped later to offer a drawing, A friend up in Lancashire built a 3-1/2in. gauge
by kind permission of our friend the K.B.P. “ Royal Scot ” which had proved a “ R o y a l
Well, we can kill two birds with one shot ; for Spot “-of bother !-instead, and I tested it on
Leslie’s engine can be built entirely from 2-1/2in. my road, to diagnose the trouble. His son came
gauge castings and material. Here she is : I to collect it ; and to show what the big engine
226
 Gauge Engine Yet by " L.B.S.C. "
should be capable of doing, if in first-class order, ling-chain became tight. The boiler was pretty
I steamed up old “ Ancient Lights,” which has a full, and the jerk sent some of the water over,
boiler not very much bigger than that specified down the steam pipe ; the piston hanged it up
for “ Tich.” against the cylinder cover, and the shock must
have sheared the cotter-pin holding the piston-
A “ Three-legged Race ” rod to the crosshead. We didn’t know that at
“ Ancient Lights ” has a very big dome, with the time, as the engine got the load under way,

dition ” for 3-1/2in. gauge [Leslie Clarke

_
the regulator right up in the top of it ; and I and proceeded to run as usual ; but I noticed
usually run with the boiler almost full, on account that the beats were uneven, and that she appeared
of its small capacity, relying on the dome for to jerk a bit on the curves. Anyway, she did a few
steam space. She got up steam in the usual three laps, blowing off all the time, and my visitor
minutes or so ; and after a warm-up, running expressed amazement at the way she pulled.
light, I took my seat on the car and did about Then I took over, and “ ran out” the remains
half-a-dozen laps, to show her paces. When of the fire, travelling at the usual speed, with
my visitor took over, he tapped at the regulator apparently nothing amiss, save that a blow had
handle instead of holding it and opening up like appeared at one of the cylinder covers ; occasion-
a full-size driver ; and the engine made a sudden ally a gasket ring will split, especially if of oiled
dart forward, pulling up with a jerk as the coup- paper, and cause a blow.
227
THE MODEL ENGINEER FEBRUARY 24, 1949

After my visitor’s departure, when I had Cylinders and Motion

dropped the fire and wiped the engine down Cylinder castings as used for “ Dyak,” “ Ada,”
(always clean them before putting away), I was “ Green Arrow,” etc., could all be utilised, the
astonished to find that the right-hand piston-rod bore being made about 11/16in., stroke 1-1/8in. and
was clean out of the crosshead, and the pin with the ports and passages, slide-valves, etc., all as
sheared ; so that she had only been getting power specified for the engines mentioned. The single
on the outward stroke of the piston. On the guide-bar of the “ Green Arrow,” with the same
return stroke, as soon as the valve uncovered the type of box crosshead, would fit in with Mr.
back port, the piston had shot to the front cover, Clarke’s layout. The outer end of the bar is
as the rod was detached from the crosshead, the supported by a simple angle-bracket attached
repeated concussions loosening the screws and to the main frames, and this carries a triangular
causing the blow. The engine running “ on bracket with the link-bearing on it, same as the
three legs,” in a manner of speaking, was only “ Dyak.” A single bearing can bc used, as on the
developing 75 per cent. of her power, yet she “ Dyak,” or an additional bearing can be added
made short work of a heavy adult, and main- on the inner side, just as you prefer, as there is
tained normal speed easily. It is hardly necessary room for it. The Walschaerts gear is also very
to add that I fitted a larger pin, and a new joint, similar to the “ Dyak’s,” except for the lifting
and she was soon O.K. once more. arrangemcnt for the radius-roil ; this is attended
to, by a swinging link on the end of the lifting
Brief Specifications arm attached to the usual type of weighbar shaft,
Returning to little “ Tich,” she is just a plain running in flanged bushes attached to the frame
four-wheeled job with all the “ works ” outside, by screws. In connection with this, here is a tip
except the feed pump, and can be built with the which beginners might like to know. The valve-
minimum of tools and equipment. She would be gear is, of course, arranged for outside admission,
an interesting and quick job even for anybody the cylinders having ordinary slide-valves ; Mr.
with a fleet of larger engines, and just the “ cat’s Clarke has shown the return crankpin leading
whiskers ” for anyone who is just making a start, the main pin, which means that the engine goes
and wants something inexpensive, easy, and sim- ahead with the dieblock in the lower part of the
ple. The main frames are 2-1/2 in. deep, and made link. Therefore, if the reverse arm on the weigh-
from 1/8in. steel, the blue ductile sheet or strip bar shaft is pointing upwards, and connected to
for preference ; and no filing to outline is needed, the lever in the cab above the fulcrum pin, the
as they could be cut out straight away in a few engine will run the opposite way to the inclination
minutes on a bench shear. If a shear isn’t of the lever.
available, they could be sawn, using the tops of To get over this, there are three easy ways.
the vice jaws for a guide ; but a file would be First, the reverse arm could hang down instead of
needed to remove the saw-marks, although there pointing upwards. Secondly, the lever in the
are no curved lines, the bottom and ends being cab could be extended below the fulcrum pin,
straight. The hornblock openings would be and the reach-rod connected to the extension,
made to suit whatever hornblock castings or so that the arm on the weighbar shaft worked in
pressings you happened to have in stock. The the opposite direction. Thirdly-easiest of all-
hot-pressed type sold at one time by Kennion set the return crankpin to follow the main crank
and Bond would do fine ; but advertisers instead of leading it, and let the engine use the
who are supplying castings and material for top half of the link for going ahead, same as
“ L.B.S.C.” engines, could produce some cast all the Maunsell 2-6-0’s on the Southern, and
hornblocks very nearly as clean. I have samples the American “ Austerities.” This doesn’t make
here now, as sold for “ Austere Ada ” and other the slightest difference to the efficiency of the
2-1/2in. gauge jobs, that only need a little attention engine.
with a file. The centre of the leading axle is The steam and exhaust pipes could be the
3-5/16 in. from end of frame ; the coupled wheels same as on “ Dyak ” or “ Ada,” and there is
are 3-5/8 in. apart, and the overhang at the trailing room for a 2-1/2in. gauge size mechanical lubricator
end is 3-3/4 in. The buffer-beams are made from between frames, behind the buffer-beam. The
7/8in. by 3/16in. flat bar, attached to frames by ratchet lever could be operated by an eccentric
angles, or by brazing. Beams made of angle on the leading axle. The ram should be 3/32 in.
are not used, as they stand above the frame top, with a stroke of 3/16 in. full, the oil being fed into
to bring the buffers up to standard height, these the tee on the steam pipe.
little engines being used to haul and shunt the
ordinary full-size wagons. Boiler
Axleboxes should be same as “ Austere Ada,” As I have only received the outline drawing
overhead springs being used. The coupled of the engine from Johannesburg, and no details
wheels are 2 in. diameter on tread, but it would of it, I have made a separate drawing of the kind
make no odds if they are a shade larger, to bring of boiler I should specify for such an engine. The
in stock castings. “ Ada ” wheels turned as barrel is the same diameter as shown on Mr.
small as the castings would allow, would do very Clarke’s drawing, but I have made the firebox
well. The axles are 3/8 in. diameter, same as for wrapper 3/8in. longer, for two reasons ,; one,
2-1/2in. gauge, but turned to the correct length it gives a little more grate area, and two, it brings
for 3-1/2in. gauge, viz. 3 9/32 in. between shoulders. the boiler a little farther back into the cab, with
The driving crankpin should be 7/32 in. diameter, consequently better counterbalancing effect.
and the leading one 3/16 in., the length being same The weight of the cylinders ahead of the leading
as “ Ada ” or “ Dyak.” The distance from centre axle, would put the engine “ down on her knees ”
of axle to centre of crankpin is 9/16in. if she didn’t have a counterbalance at the back
228
THE MODEL ENGINEER FEBRUARY 24, 1949

end, and we might as well take advantage of it, the cap and base being turned from pieces of
instead of putting a dead weight under the foot- brass previously silver-soldered on. No liner
plate. is needed.
T h e b a r r e l , w r a p p e r , fircbox, crown-stays,
and firebox tubeplates, can be made from 18- Boiler Fittings and Mountings
gauge copper sheet ; the smokebox tubeplate The boiler being so weeny, you would need to
and throatplate, from 16-gauge, and the backhead do the same as I do on “ Ancient Lights,” viz.
from 13-gauge. The method of construction is run with a high water-level and use the dome

“ L.B.S.C.” boiler for “ Tich ”

exactly the same as I described for larger boilers, as steam space. The inner dome could be made
and a 2-1/2pint blowlamp would make short work from a piece of I-in. copper tube with a flange
of the whole doings. There are six 3/8in. by 24- silver-soldered on, and a top turned from I-in.
gauge tubes, and a single 3/8in. flue, of 20-gauge brass rod, or a cast disc, in which is formed the
copper, for the superheater ; the element should seating for the safety-valve. The latter should
be made from 1/4-in. by zo-gauge tube, with a be a genuine spring-balance, which is easy
brazed-on block return bend c o m i n g w i t h i n enough to make, as the dome is bigger than
1/2 in. of the firebox. This little " kettle” will be “ Grosvenor’s.” If a dummy balance is used,
most exceedingly lively, and a very fast steamer ; with a direct-acting spring-valve inside the dome
also with the big flue and element, the steam will cover, it means restricting the height of the inner
be plenty hot, which is needed for the greatest dome and getting the regulator too close to water-
efficiency. Nine 1/8in. copper stays will be needed in level. By the same token (says Pat) it wouldn’t be
each side of the firebox, and two in the ends ; these, advisable to put safety-valves on the boiler barrel or
plus the two longitudinal stays (one of 5/32-in. she would be blowing water best part of the time.
copper rod, the other of tube) will make the boiler The regulator can be Stroudley pattern, but
quite safe for a working pressure of 80 lb. a single port would be plenty ; make it like the
Either Sifbronze, easy-running strip, or Johnson- “ Maid of Kent’s ” regulator. Mr. Clarke has
Matthey’s “ B6 ” alloy, which is a coarse-grade shown the top of the water-gauge connected by a
silver-solder, and makes a sound job at low tem- pipe to the turret ; this is O.K., but the steam-
perature, can be used for the first operations. gauge is shown apparently directly connected to
The tubes, foundation-ring, backhead and bushes the top of the turret by a union, whereas it should
can be treated to a dose of “ Easyflo,” or ordinary be attached to a 1/8in. syphon, and set toward the
best grade silver-solder. side. As to boiler feeds, a pump 5/16 in. bore
A circular smokebox, made of brass tube, of a and 3/8 in. stroke can be placed between frames
diameter that will just fit over the boiler barrel, and operated by an eccentric on the front axle,
can be fitted, and covered with a wrapper made out of the way of grit from the ashpan. A small
of sheet brass, and bent to the outline shown in hand-pump could be installed in one of the side
the front view of the engine as depicted by friend tanks, which should be made from 20-gauge sheet
Leslie. The front could be cut to the same outline, brass, and carry water. An injector could also be
from 3/32-in. sheet brass, and have a ring silver- fitted if desired ; although the smallest size I
soldered to it, which would press into the smoke- recommend, with 78 delivery nozzle, would put
box barrel. I have fitted the front of the feed in rather too fast for the small size of the
“ Grosvenor’s ” smokebox in similar manner, boiler. Mr. Clarke’s own design of donkey-pump
and it is quite O.K. The door and hinges, dart, could also be fitted ; look out for details of same
handles, etc., need no comment. The chimney in the near future.
could be made from a piece of 11/16in. brass tube, (Continued on page 234)
229
THE MODEL ENGINEER FEBRUARY 24, 1949
ensure perfect alignment of this guide with the of the slide-valve should be square with the line
gland. of motion, i.e. parallel to the edges of the cylinder 1
The steam inlet port may enter the chest at ports, and that the width of face from edge to
any convenient place, or even be fitted to the cavity should be equal top and bottom. The
cover if preferred ; but the latter position, in a working face of the valve should be finished by
twin engine, is hardly conducive to neat arrange- lapping, as above described, when all other
ment of steam pipes, and the side of the chest operations on it are completed.
(both chests, of course, on the same side) will
usually be found best in this respect. Drill the Piston-rod
clearance holes for the stud holes in the steam- Stainless-steel rod is recommended for this, but
chest cover, and clamp it to the chest so that it if not available, a good quality mild-steel rod will
serves as a jig for drilling the latter ; then clamp serve fairly well. Silver-steel is not good material
the chest to the cylinder block for spotting the for any purpose involving screwcutting, as it is
positions of the tapping holes in the latter. After extremely difficult to get it to take a really clean
drilling and tapping, the burrs raised on the joint thread, and this may seriously affect the chances <
surfaces should be very carefully removed, a of making an accurate job. The rod should be L
sound method being to lap the parts on a piece held truly in the lathe and screwed as accurately i
of plate-glass ; the end faces of the cylinders may as possible with a tailstock die-holder, allowing ,
be similarly treated after the holes for the cover an extra length at each end, tapered off to provide
studs have been tapped. A11 traces of abrasive a good “ lead ” for the die, and machining it off
should afterwards be removed by washing in afterwards. Do not rely on a self-centring chuck I
paraffin and syringing out holes and passages. of dubious accuracy to hold the rod ; unless a
collet chuck is available, it should be held in the
Slide-valve four-jaw chuck and set to run true with the aid
Although it is the usual practice to make the of a test indicator. Tedious and troublesome-
slide-valve of a small engine in bronze or gun- perhaps ; but worth while in ensuring the correct
metal, the same as the cylinder and other parts, alignment of a most important working com- 1
there are advantages in making it of a dissimilar ponent. I
metal such as steel or cast-iron, the latter being Cut the short thread at the lower end first, ,
much the best in respect of wearing properties setting the die to cut a little on the tight side, as
and low friction. Contrary to general opinion, checked by a standard nut. The thread at the 1
corrosion of ferrous metals is not serious, if other end should be even tighter if anything, and
internal lubrication is good and care is taken to before removing it from the chuck, the piston (of
drain away condensed water before the engine is similar material to the rod), which should be
laid up for any length of time. On account of its previously roughed out well oversize, drilled
small size, it is just as easy to make the valve through the centre, and tapped, should be screwed
from the solid as from a casting, the outside being firmly home on it, and finish-machined while in
shaped by filing or milling, and the cavity first position. The fit of the “ lands ” of the piston in
bored out circular and then squared out by the cylinder bore should be as close as you know
chipping, or milling with dental burrs. The back how to make it ; the better the fit of the piston,
of the valve has two deeply-cut slots across it the less is required of the packing ; and one
at right-angles, one being for the reception of the might do worse than make a plain piston, or one
valve spindle and the other for the spindle nut ; with two or three very small grooves, to a “ diesel
the latter should be a close, but not a binding, fit. fit ” and dispense with packing altogether.
It is important that the top and bottom edges (To be continued)

" TICH ”
(Continued from page 229)

Accessories to carry the arm which is operated by the brake

The superstructure could be made from 20- screw and nut, as the brake would not be used
gauge brass or steel sheet. The engine having for service stops, being more or less an ornament
only a plain bent-over weatherboard, makes only. The engine would be too light to make a
the footplate easily accessible ; but a piece would service stop with its own brake when hauling a
have to be cut out of the bunker, to render the passenger. Buffers, couplings and other odd-
firehole get-at-able. A supply of coal would have ments would be the same as on any normal type
to be carried on the flat car. As brake-gear is a of 3-1/2in. gauge engine, as it would, naturally,
prominent feature of these contractors’ engines, be used with the same type of rolling-stock.
and if left out is conspicuous by its absence, Well, I guess that about completes a “ quick .
the brake shown by our friend should be fitted. survey " of " Tich." If all goes well, a set of
I note, however, that he has shown the bearing blueprints will be available shortly, showing
carrying the brake shaft, fixed in the step. I separate details, which should enable anybody to
would prefer it fixed to the frames. The shaft build the engine in a very short time ; watch
could project through the bearing, far enough our advertisers’ announcements,
234
Cylinders for the Wee " Dot ” like “Doris ”
by " L.B.S.C.“’

I F anybody cares to tackle a pair of proper

piston-valve cylinders for “ Doris’s ” baby
sister, all they have to do, is to halve the dimen-
any steaming trouble. Better results still, could
be obtained by fitting one of my small oil burners,
blueprints of which are now available from our
sions of the 3-1/2in. gauge pair, and go right ahead. offices. Cylinders of 5/8 in. bore could be used,
If they prefer slide valves, they will find all they if the boiler is fired by an oil burner in good fettle.
need in the way of dimensions, in the accom- The general instructions for machining and

TAP 8BA LOCATE HOLES

FROM STEAM CHEST

Cylinders for “ Dot ”

panying illustrations. I used a similar pair on fitting the cylinders on the 3-1/2in. gauge engine,
a gauge " I ”engine of the 2-6-0 type, which I can be applied to the smaller one, making
built for an old fellow-conspirator of the railway, variations where necessary. These small castings,
now alas ! on the other side of the Great Divide. however, need not necessarily be set up on an
Thev were bored out to a shade over 9/16 in., angle-plate for boring ; if your four-jaw chuck
as big as the castings would allow ; and the will hold them, use that. The modus operandi
engine ran away with a twelve-year-old boy, is practically the same. If the core-hole in the
on the steam generated by six 1/4in. “ poison-gas ” casting is in the right place, just set it to run
wicks. The boiler was smaller than that I truly ; then face the end flange, bore and ream,
am specifying for “ Dot.” Although I have and finish the other end on a stub mandrel. I f
shown the bores as 1/2 in. in the drawings, it is the core-hole is out of truth, mark a circle on the
quite all right to bore them a little larger if you end, and set it to a scribing-block needle, with
so desire. As long as the chimney liner and the scribing block standing on the lathe bed or
blast nozzle are O.K., so as to get enough air saddle. If beginners haven’t a scribing block,
through the firebox, to ensure complete combus- and finances are well below par, make one up ;
tion-“ take all the poison out of the gas,” as it is easy enough. You would have laughed to
my lamented friend used to say-there won’t be see young Curly’s first attempt at a scribing
639
THE MODEL ENGINEER NOVEMBER 17, 1949 1t

block. The base was a small “ press-in ” type but put a piece of I6-gauge or thicker metal, th
tin lid ; the spindle was a bit of stiff wire bent such as soft brass or aluminium, between the ar
at right angles at the bottom, and soldered to the machined ends and the chuck jaws. Set with a cY
lid, the flange of which rested on the lathe bed try-square, same as if you had the job on an th
or whatever was being used. Mother’s flat angle-plate. The ports may be end-milled by cc
iron made a swell “ surface plate ” ! The one of the several methods I have previously N
needle was one of mother’s hat-pins. I found described, or be hand-cut wirh a small chisel ;
out how to make the block that carries the needle, if end-milled? it doesn’t matter a bean if the ends
from gazing at a proper scribing block in a tool- are left semlcircular. The passageways should
shop window ; but mine was very much modified, be drilled by hand, the casting being held in the
as I used an old bolt with a wing nut. A hole bench vice, on the slant, so that if the brace
close to the bolt head, through which rhe wire is held level, it will direct the drill into the side
spindle passed, and was clamped by the wing nut, of the port, and avoid breaking through the
provided height adjustment, while the hat-pin port face.
was clamped between two washers, placed be-
tween the wing nut and the spindle. “ Where Covers, Pistons and Glands
there’s a will, there’s a way,” and “ necessity is The cylinder covers and pistons are machined
the mother of invention,” were two sayings which and fitted, same as described for the 3-1/2in. gauge
might have been specially inspired by young job. After mounting the rough-turned pistons
Curly’s antics. In later years, I made a good on their rods, hold the rods in a split-bush in the
scribing block with a locomotive wheel for a base ; three-jaw, if you haven’t a collet chuck, for finish-
and also made vee-blocks by riveting two pieces turning the pistons to size. Somebody I know,
of sheet metal together and filing to shape, like hadn’t a three-jaw, so he turned the lot between
centres. If the lathe is a very small one, and
the veracity of the chuck is nothing to
write home about, it might be advisable to aI
TOP follow suit. My first tiny lathe didn’t have
any three-jaw, only a few brass chucks of g’
the kind that unofficial history tells us, S
were used on the lathe in the engine-room
of Noah’s Ark ; but I seemed to get on
all right by aid of a few spots of improvisa- C%
tion. se
I didn’t even have a slide-rest ;
but, as followers of rhese notes who have CC
read my childhood reminiscences will bz
recollect, the abnormal physical strength 01
which I possessed when a child, enabled th
me to hold a hand-tool perfectlv rigid 01
t for the few simple jobs that I carried
through. Incidentally, I’m not exactly a E
Slide-valve and spindle weakling now ; a few days ago, when a dl
friend from Ashford saw me pick up a heavy m
you would do to cut out frames, and then fixing tray of castings by the edge, with one hand, he said U
them (after filing a vee in one edge) at 1/2 in. apart, in surprise, “ Curly, you haven’t half got a strong gl
with three little spacers. Incidentally, I wrote wrist ! ” I might add, it takes the two of them to
to a certain party and mentioned these wheezes. carry the 2-6-6-4 Mallet “ Annabel ” down a :;
He promptly wrote an article in which he claimed flight of stairs, and up a sloping garden path to Bt
the ideas as his own ; such is life ! Many of our little railway.
the improvements in small locomotive con- Beginners note the following : make a dummy ;:
struction, as described in these notes, have been plug for the stuffing-box in the back cylinder
-and are still being-exploited commercially ; cover. Just chuck a bit of 1/4in. brass rod in of
not that it worries me in the least, but as our three-jaw? face the end, screw for about 1/4 in. lo
‘Oxton friend, Bert Smiff would remark, “ Us length with 1/4 in. by 40 die in tailstock holder, th
blokes ain’t above a bit o’ scroungin’, but we’re and part off a slice about 1/8 in. thick. The centre in
‘onest enuff to say where we got the goods ! ” of this will be automatically marked by the ta
Nuff sed. facing tool. Scribe a line right down the middle bl
Sometimes these small cylinders are cast solid. of the oval boss, cutting through the centre of h;
In that case, all you do is to mark out one end the plug, which should be temporarily screwed N
and centre-pop the middle of the location of into the stuffing-box. At 9/32 in. above and St’
bore ; chuck in the four-jaw? run the tailstock below centre, make two centre-dots ; drill No. 48 sil
up to the casting, and adjust jaws until the pop- and tap 3/32 in. or 7 B.A., using drilling-machine to
mark is true with the tailstock centre. Alterna- or lathe - not by hand. These holes are for
tively, you can hold the casting against the the guide bars, and if rhey are not dead square VI
tailstock centre, with the point in the pop-mark, with the cvlinder cover, the bars won’t line up
and close the chuck jaws down on to it. Put a with the piston rod. a
5
1/8in. pilot hole through first, then drill 7/16 in., Drill the four No. 43 screw-holes in the cylinder
take a cut through with a boring tool, in case the j$
cover, and put the cover on the end of the
drill has run out of truth, and finally ream. cylinder. Lay the cylinder, bolting face down, sic
The casting can be held crosswise in the chuck, on the lathe bed ; set your scribing-block needle re
for facing off the port face and bolting face ; to the centre of the dummy plug, and adjust Cl:

640
 THE MODEL ENGINEER NOVEMBER 17, 1949
19
improvisation thereof, as described in the
the cover until the centres of the guide-bar holes
J1 are at the same height. Put a cramp over the Beginners’ Corner a little while ago-and
te
a running under a 1/16 in. wide saw-type milling
cylinder and cover, to prevent the latter shifting,
n then run the 43 drill through the holes, makingcutter on a spindle between centres. It may also
be cut on a shaper or planer, by aid of a 1/16in.
countersinks on the cylinder flange ; follow with
IY No. 51 and tap 8 B.A. The piston-rod glands parting tool in the clapper box. Alternatively,
-Y a No. 51 hole could be
1: drilled lonrritudinallv
d through the valve, at the
.e location of the bottom
:e of the slot ; a saw-cut
.e made from the top of the
e valve, down to the hole,
by aid of two saw-blades
put together in the frame,
and the sides then
smoothed with a key-
cutter’s warding file. Also
a 16-gauge slotting blade
in that most handy
gadget, the Eclipse “ 4s ”
tool, would do the job
in two wags of a dog’s
tail. If castings are
Back view and bolting face of R.H. cylinder used, the exhaust cavity
will be cast in, and the
are turned from 5/16in. hexagon rod, bronze or
gunmetal for preference.

Steamchests
Castings for the steamchest will have the bosses
cast on. Chuck one boss in the three-jaw, and
set the other one to run truly ; centre it with a
centre-drill in the tailstock chuck. Run up the
back centre to support it whilst you turn the
outside,. and face the end of the steamchest ;
then drill it through with No. 41 drill, and open
out and tan 7/32 in. bv 40 for the gland. Reverse
in chuck, repeat operations for ‘the other boss,
but drill it right through with 5/32 in. or No. 22
drill, and tap 3/16 in. by 40 for a plug, which is
made from a bit of 1/4in. hexagon brass rod.
Use bronze or gunmetal rod, if possible, for the
gland. The steam pipe boss at the side, need valve will be externally to the shape shown. If
not be turned ; just smooth off the end with a cut from solid, file off the corner of the valve
file, centre, drill No. 30, and tap 5/32 in. by 40. (no need for “ mike ” measurements on that
Both sides or contact faces of the steamchest job, even by our old friend Inspector Meticulous.
can be machined off with the casting held in a himself !), and form the cavity by making a
four-jaw chuck. countersink on the sliding face with a 1/4in. drill,
Drill the screw-holes ; then cut out a piece and chipping it square by aid of a little chisel
of 1/16in. sheet brass for the cover-plate, 1-1/4 in. made from a bit of 1/4in. round or square silver-
long and 7/8 in. wide. Drill this by clamping steel. If the length of the cutting edge equals
the steamchest to it, and using the screw-holes the length of the cavity, you don’t get any mouse-
in same as guide. Then clamp the steamchest nibbled edges. Same applies to hand-cut ports.
to the port face, and make countersinks on same The valve spindles are made from 1-3/4in.
by running the No. 43 drill through the screw- lengths of 3/32-in. rustless steel or bronze rod.
holes. Remove steamchest, drill countersinks One end has a few threads, 3/32 in. or 7 B.A. cut
No. 51 and tap 8 B.A. Use 8-B.A. countersunk on it ; the other end is filed flat to fit in the slot
steel screws to hold the lot together, counter- in the back of the valve, starting at 3/32 in.
sinking the holes in the steamchest cover-plate from the end. I usually chuck the spindle in the
to match. three-jaw for screwing, then reverse it, and turn
a couple of scratches with the point of a knife-
Valves and Spindles tool, at the start and finish of the flattened portion.
The slide valves may be castings, or cut from One of these (the one farthest from the end,
a bit of bronze or gunmetal bar, either 3/8 in. by naturally !) is placed level with the chuck jaws ;
5/16 in. section, or 3/8 in. square. Hold it in four- and with one of the jaws set to twelve o’clock,
jaw and part off the two lengths to size. The and the file held horizontally, a flat is formed. The
slots for valve spindles can be best cut, if a same jaw is then turned around to six o’clock,
regular milling-machine isn’t available, by and the other flat filed. The length of the flat
clamping the valve in a machine-vice-or is checked by applying the valve itself to the job.
641
THE MODEL ENGINEER NOVEMBER 17. 1949 TI
The flats should fit the slots easily, but should in far enough to leave a countersink w h i c h tk
not have any appreciable end movement, other- measures a full 3/16 in. across. Then turn the ti
wise the valve setting will be faulty. The fork outside for 1/4in. length, to 1/4 in. diameter, using
on the end of the spindle is made- the same as a knife-tool as when turning wheel seats, and ::
described for umpteen other engines, so needs screw it 1/4 in. by 40, with the die in tailstock tl
no detailing. Use oiled paper, or 1/64-in. Hallite holder. You obviously can’t reverse the job in the it
or similar jointing, between cylinder casting, chuck, to turn and screw the other end, as the li
covers, and steamchest joints ; pack piston and chuck jaws would have to be tightened enough n
glands with graphited yarn, and Bob’s your to ruin the threaded part ; so use a tapped bush. Sl
uncle as far as the cylinders are concerned. Next Chuck a short bit of 1/2in. round rod in three-jaw; 6
stage, guide bars, -crossheads, connecting-rods any odd scrap, brass or steel, about 1/2 in. long,
and valve-gear. will do fine. Face the end. centre. drill right
through with 1/32-in. drill, slightly countersunk
Beginners’ Corner (contd.). Pump for the end with 1/4in. drill, tap 1/4 in. by 40, using the
“ Tich ” tailstock chuck to guide the tap, as previously
We left off after finishing the pump barrel and described, and skim off any burr left from drilling
valve-box, so now we need the top and bottom and tapping. Don’t remove from chuck, but
caps for the valve-box. The valves themselves are screw the threaded end of the tee into it. The
5/32-in. balls. either rustless steel or phosphor- outer end will run quite truly. Give that end
bronze. If you are using the former, drop one a dose of the same medicine as the first end ;
into the D-bitted end of the valve-box ; rest and then drill right through it with a No. 40
the other end on a block of lead, or something drill, as shown in the section of the complete
else that won’t damage the faced end. Put a short pump. Make a centre-pop opposite No. I jaw,
bit of 3/16in. round brass rod on top of the ball, on the bush, before taking it out of the chuck.
and give it just one sharp crack with a hammer. Now chuck the casting-by the spigot on top,
This takes the sharp arris off the edge of the provided for the purpose. Set the stem to run
reamed hole, and the ball thus forms its own truly, as above. Face off the end ; centre, and
watertight seating. If you are using bronze balls, drill it with a No. 40 drill until you break into
form the seating as above, with a 5/32-in. cycle the cross-hole at the top. The next bit is where
bearing ball ; not the bronze ball. The latter you need the already-set depth gauge ; turn the
isn’t nearly so hard as the steel ball, and the stem to 1/4 in. diameter, to the same length as
seating will cut a weeny groove in it, if you try indicated by the projecting part of the depth
to seat it direct. The bronze ball will seat water- gauge pin. Screw it 1/4 in. by 40, and then face
tight on a seating formed by a cycle ball of similar just 1/32 in. off the end, to allow the ball that
size. much lift. Finally, file two nicks across the end,
Now take the distance from the top of the ball, with a thin flat file, so that when the ball rises
to the top of the valve-box, with a depth gauge; off its seating on the forcing stroke of the pump,
Young Curly’s depth gauge was one of mother’s and seats against the hole, the water can get
hat-pins stuckthrough a-tram ticket. You can out through the nicks. An old friend forgot
make one by drilling a No. 41 hole through an these nicks on one of his engines, and spent
inch or so of 3/16in. square brass rod, putting a about a fortnight looking for the tight spot,
3/32-in. or 7-B.A. set-screw in the side, and error in valve-gear, etc., which he imagined was
using a piece of 3/32-in. silver-steel, about 3 in. causing the wheels to lock as soon as the engine
long, for the sliding part. Put the rod across the tried to make a start ! Cut off the chucking piece,
top of the valve-box ; push the pin down until and file away the stub, making the fitting as neat
it touches the ball, and tighten the screw. You’ll as possible ; then drop the ball in the valve-box,
need this in a few minutes, all being well. and screw the fitting home, with a touch of
The top cover of the valve-box is in the form plumbers’ jointing (" Boss White,” or any
of a T, the stem screwing into the valve-box, similar preparation, sold at all ironmongery
and the two ends of the head carrying union stores) on the threads ; but be careful not to
screws for connecting to the boiler clack and the get any inside the valve-box. The union screws
by-pass valve respectively. It can be made from should point fore-and-aft, as our nautical friends
a casting, or built up. If cast, it will look like would remark ; see sectional drawing.
a cross, as it will have a chucking piece on top. The bottom fitting is somewhat similarlv
First, chuck in three-jaw by one side of the head, machined, but it has only one union screw, and
and set the other end to run truly, gently tapping the ball seats on the stem. The fitting will have
with a lead hammer, or something else that won’t two chucking pieces, so chuck in three-jaw by
damage the casting, until it doesn’t wobble when one of them ; set the other end to run truly, then
the lathe is running. Then tighten the chuck. face, centre, turn and screw it, exactly as des-
Face off the end carefully ; for nearly all facing cribed for the union ends of the tee above. Then
jobs on small fittings, I use a square-ended drill halfway through it with No. 40 drill. Next,
tool, with the point nearest the chuck, ground off chuck by the other chucking piece, and set the
to an angle of about 30 deg. An ordinary knife- end to run truly. Face off, centre, and drill down
tool sometimes catches up and knocks the job with No. 32 drill until you break into the hole
clean out of the chuck, damaging the soft casting already drilled ; see section of complete pump.
beyond recall. The tool above mentioned, never Put a 1/8in. parallel reamer into this hole. as far
plays rhat trick, and is also useful for chamfering as it will go : then carefully face off the end.
the corners of union nuts and similar fittings. Turn the pump upside down, and drop a
Centre the end, same as you centred the wheels, 5/32-in. ball into the lower part of the valve-box.
letting the centre-drill penetrate until it has sunk Take the distance from the top of the ball, to
642
 49 THE MODEL ENGINEER NOVEMBER 17, 1949
the end of the valve-box as before, and tighten illustration. Squeeze it in, and silver-solder
2 the set-screw of the depth gauge. Now turn the the joint, afterwards cross-nicking it, same as
stem of the fitting in the chuck, to 1/4 in. diameter, the casting.
2 for a distance approximately 1/64 in. less than
the length indicated by the gauge pin, and screw Silver-soldering Fittings
z it 1/4 in. by 40. As the ball sinks into the seating a This is one of the easiest jobs going. I use
he little, this will give the ball a shade over 1/32 in. “ Easyflo ” silver-solder in wire form (supplied
:h total lift. Saw off both chucking pieces, and commercially by Johnson-Matthey’s) and the
h. smooth the stubs away with a file ; put the ball special flux that goes with it ; but best grade
7; (if steel) on the end of the stem, apply the brass silver-solder cut in thin strips, with jewellers
l%
lk
le
1Y
1g
lit
le
ld
1;
!O
te
v>
k.
PJ Built- up pump fittings Simple depth gauge
Ln
Id
LO rod to it, and give it a crack with a hammer as borax (powdered and mixed to a paste with water)
re above. The fitting can be held in the bench vice does very well. You can use a little blowlamp,
Le for this job. Then drop the ball in the hole in or a small gas blowpipe can be made in a few
Ei the valve-box, and screw in the fitting, with the minutes from a bit of 3/8in. brass or copper tube,
.h union screw pointing towards the pump barrel, which is self-blowing. See illustration, which
:e as shown in the section of the complete pump. explains itself. A small tin lid with a few bits
1t of small coke or asbestos cubes in it, makes a
1, Built-up Fittings small forge ; it need not be bigger than a soap
:S Instead of using castings, the top and bottom dish. Simply anoint the joint with the wet flux,
)J fittings may be built-up. For the top one, chuck blow to medium red, and touch the joint with the
:t a piece of 5/16in. round brass rod in the three-jaw. silver-solder wire or strip. It immediately melts
>t Face the end, centre deeply, and turn and screw and runs m. Don’t use too much-it not only
It it exactly as described for the casting ; part off spoils the appearance, but is expensive. Quench
t, at I in. from the end. Reverse in chuck, and out when it has cooled to black, in a drop of
IS serve the other end the same, drilling a No. 40 acid pickle in a jam jar. The acid pickle is
.e
:a
It
[,
If
Y
Y
0
S
S

Facing and chamfering tool Simple self-blowing gas blowpipe

hole clean through. Drill a 5/32-in. hole in the composed of I part commercial sulphuric acid
side, halfway along, breaking into the middle hole. to about 16 of water, or I part old accumulator
Chuck a piece of Q-in. brass rod in three-jaw ; acid to 4 of water. Let the fitting stay in for
face, centre, and drill down 3/4 in. depth with No. about ten minutes, then fisli it out, wash under the
40 drill. Face off the end until any countersinking kitchen tap, wipe dry and clean up. For cleaning
has been removed ; then turn the end to 1/4 in. up, I use a circular wire brush on a spindle
diameter, to 1/32 in. less than distance from top stuck in a taper hole in the end of my electric
of ball to top of box, as indicated by the depth grinder ; but it does as well if held in the lathe
gauge. Screw 1/4 in. by 40, and part off at 5/8 in. chuck. Run the lathe as fast as possible without
from the end. Put the tapped bush in the chuck, causing an earthquake.
with the centre-pop opposite No. I jaw, and screw The bottom fitting is easier still to build up.
the fitting into it. Turn 1/16 in. of the end, to a Simply chuck a bit of 3/8in. brass rod in three-
tight fit in the side hole in the other piece ; jaw, and proceed to machine up the end exactly
then turn the rest to the shape shown m the (Continued o n next page)
143
 The Murad " Cadet” 4-in. Lathe

Messrs. Murad Developments Ltd., of Stock- tray, with machined seatings for the feet of the
lade, Aylesbury, Bucks, have recently introduced lathe, serving to increase its rigidity and further
a new 4-in. lathe which embodies several inter- resist distortion. The electrical equipment con-
esting features. It has a centre height of 4in., sists of a 1/2 h.p. motor bolted to the back of the
with a gap bed, admitting a maximum diameter stand and driving the enclosed gear counter-
of II in. in the gap, and maximum length of shaft by vee-belt, also a built-in motor reversing
18 in. between centres. The headstock has an switch below the headstock. Standard equip-
all-geared drive, giving six speeds from 43 to ment includes driver plate, two centres, set of
818 r.p.m. and the mandrel, which has a through change gears, and necessary spanners ; extras
bore of 13/16 in. with No. 3 Morse taper socket, include 8-in. faceplate, fixed and travelling
runs in large-diameter, long white metal bearings. steadies, independent and self-centring chucks,
The standard set of change-wheels provides for chasing dialj 4-way turret toolpost, and
cutting threads from 2-1/2 to 96 t.p.i., and saddle collet attachment. A long bed machine,
feeds from 0.400 to 0.0037. taking 24 in. between centres, is also available
A cast-iron stand is supplied, and also a cast to order.

“ L.B.S.C."
(Continued from previous page)

as described for the casting, when forming the in the notes in August 25th issue, in which I
ball seat. Part off at 5/16 in. from the shoulder, said, erect the pump stay level with bottom of
and drill a 5/32-in. hole in the side. Chuck a frame. It should be placed 1/16 in. above the bot-
piece of 1/4in. round rod in the three-jaw ; face tom, so as to line up the pump barrel with the
the end, centre deeply, and drill down to a full centre of driving axle in running position. Most
1/2 in. depth with No. 40 drill. Screw the outside builders put it thus. as the position of the screw-
1/4 in. by 40, for1/4 in. length, and part off at 3/8 in. holes gave the necessary clue ; but if anybody
from the end. Rechuck in the tapped bush ; has put it level with the bottom of the frame, it
turn about 3/32 in. of the end to a tight squeeze doesn’t matter a bean. As the distance between
fit in the side hole of the other part. Squeeze the eccentric-strap centre, and the eye in the rod
it in, silver-solder it, pickle, wash and clean up. is 2 in., the 1/16 in. offset won’t affect the working
Seat a ball on the faced end, and assemble as of the pump in the slightest. I just mixed up
previously explained. the pump for “ Tich ” with one I schemed out
May I beg your forgiveness for a small error for another engine !
644
 Fabricated Cylinders
by " L.B.S.C."
B; UILDING up parts of machines where,
normally, castings would be used, is nothing
new in fact, unofficial history tells us that old
and he wasn’t the only one who did, by long
chalks. But when it became possible to buy a
set of castings for a horizontal steam engine, with
man Noah used built-up parts for the bilge-pump the cylinder bored and the flanges turned, for
in the Ark, not being able to obtain any castings the princely sum of one shilling and ninepence
because all the foundries were flooded out ! (I wrote that out in full, in case the printers

Photo by] Cylinders assembled ready for brazing [A. Milburn

Some of the earlier locomotives had cylinders thought I had made a mistake and left out a
made from iron plates bent to a circle and figure or two !), and carriage paid at that, fabri-
riveted ; the pistons “ fitted where they touched,” cation took a back seat in many cases, for the
in a manner of speaking, and were kept more or time being. Then, in due course, things like
less steamtight-usually less-by aid of hemp little locomotives began to look more like their
rope packing, soaked in tallow. However, it full-size relations ; and if a builder wanted
was not until the advent of oxy-acetylene and one of a special type, he had either to. take the
electric-arc welding, that built-up components trouble of making up his own patterns and getting
became what one might call a practical proposi- special castings, or else resort to fabrication.
tion ; and then a new term was invented for the Incidentally, there were some weird and wonderful
process, viz. “ fabrication.” Nowadays; this instructions given in various books and journals
fabrication stunt has extended to all branches for building up cylinders. I well recollect one
of engineering, locomotives being no exception. described in an article published in a shilling
It comes in mightv handv indeed, in circumstances handbook (not the kind issued from the offices of
where a “ one-off” casting for an experimental this journal, I hasten to add !) in which the valve-
job would run into a lot of money. Locomotive spindle was screwed direct into the slide-valve !
cylinders and other parts have been fabricated How on earth the writer imagined that the
at Crewe, with satisfactory results. valve would seat steamtight on the port face, is
Built-up components have been used in small something I could never understand ; but I
work, practically right from the beginning. have a sort of “ hunch ” that he had a suspicion
Young Curly built up cylinders out of bits of that something was amiss, because he solemnly
brass tube, washers, and various oddments ; exhorted all and sundry, to seek advice from a
815
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949
“professional model-maker ” if the engine subject. I told him to go right ahead in full
failed to work 1 I chuckle sometimes when confidence ; he did so, and was delighted to
thinking that one or two of the said “ p-m-m’s ” find that the-only evidence of distortion was a
have sought advice’ and assistance from your slight departure from truth in the cylinder bores.
humble servant. This was corrected by the honing process. The
Well, it is a far cry from that type of cylinder, bores would have been honed anyway, so nothing
to the kind shown in the accompanying pictures. in the way of extra work was involved.
In the case of Mr. Al Milburn, it wasn’t because In the third picture also, you will observe
he couldn’t get castings, that he decided to build Mr. Milburn’s jig for drilling out the steam

Photo by] Cylinder parts before assembly [A. Milburn

up his cylinders ; it was just because he set out to passages * and in the fourth, the job is “ caught
cut everything possible for his engine, from the in the a c t”, in a manner of speaking. The jig
solid. Illustrations have already appeared show- is placed in position in the cylinder bore, and the
ing the progress of the locomotive, and the fabricated assembly held in a machine-vice on
beautiful workmanship in it ; highly commended the table of the drilling machine.’ The table of
by no less a person than our old esteemed friend the machine is canted over to the necessary angle ;
D r . J . Bradbury W i n t e r . I f t h a t master- and all that remains, is to put the drill down the
craftsman isn’t competent to pass judgment, holes in the jig, and carry on into the cylinder.
then nobody on this earth is qualified. As you will see, Mr. Milburn, like myself, doesn’t
The photographs illustrate the progress of the believe in forming imitations of the “ Caves of
job so well, that little exnlanation is needed. Old Kentucky ” between the steam ports and
The ends and the saddle-are cut from steel cylinder bores, just for the sake of filling them
plate.. The cylinder barrels and the steam- with steam at boiler pressure, and blowing it
chests are turned from steel bar. The exhaust away to waste, at every stroke of the piston.
ways are made from tube, with a turned central When the steam consumption of an engine can
fitting to take the blast-pipe. The connecting be reduced by 50 per cent. or more, by reducing
blocks, end pieces, and sundries are all clearly cavernous passages to smaller, but perfectly
shown- in the “ exploded ” photograph. The adequate proportions, and the efficiency greatly
second illustration shows the parts all assembled. improved by the lesser quantity of steam expand-
ready for silver-soldering, and the third shows ing to a lower exhaust pressure, it seems ridiculous
this stage of the proceedings completed, with the to your humble servant, to keep on reiterating
necessary equipment for honing out the cylinder that the oversize passages are better. Anyway,
bores. Friend Milburn was rather apprehensive I don’t have to stress that, to the good folk who
that the whole issue was going to distort pretty have built locomotives to the instructions given
badly under the heat, and wrote me on the in these notes ; they know the truth, the engines
816
THE MODEL ENGlNEER DECEMBER 29, 1 9 4 9

Photo by] Cylinder assembly brazed up ; honing equipment shown [A. Milburn

usually doing more than I claim for them. That hoary survivors of the age of locomotive ineffi-
brings me to another subject. ciency. In the past, when I put forward the
ideas which sounded the death-knell of that era,
A Challenge I was challenged to prove my assertions, and
Some of my correspondents say they are just promptly did so, with the results that every
about tired of reading eulogies on small-bore follower of these notes know full well. I guess
cylinders, straight-slide valve-gears, and other it is now my turn to do a bit of challenging. I

Photo by] H OW the passageways were drilled [A. Milburn :,

817
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949 Tl
have here at the present moment, a 2-1/2in. gauge 2-6-0 British type Little Red Hen at work,
4-4-0 locomotive, built to “ 1/2in. scale ” only he was rather “ sold,” as they say over there, on zl
it, was made up from the relics of a Carson the narrow type of firebox. He also wanted a th
“ Precursor,” built by that firm in 1911 . It now tank engine, as being more portable, which is a ar
has my own arrangement of cylinders and motion, consideration when takine the engine for a run
and one of my coal-fired boilers. It has run at over somebody else’s road. Looking around for ;
a high speed around my road for a mile or so a suitable type to copy, he came across a picture us
non-stop, hauling two hefty adults in the persons of the London, Tilbury and Southend engines, 01
of Mr. G. A. Barlow, foreman driver of the which in bygone days operated the “ half-a-
Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway, and crown-return-by-any-train ” runs between Fen-
Mr. Bob Hobbs, his “ understudy,” As the church Street and Southend-on-Sea, famous for
conjurer at the Christmas party would say, its long pier, cockles, and mud. He promptly
“ There is no decention. ladies and gentlemen.” fell for Tilly, wrote me on the subject, and I
because the first-mentioned party was driving the was fortunate enough to be able to loan him a
engine. That is not the limit of what the engine “ 3/4in. scale ”drawing of the full-size engine,
can do, but it will suffice for the time being. which was the exact size he required for 3-1/2in.
All right ; now then, I hereby challenge any- gauge. He photostatted the drawing, made
body who believes in, and extols, the gospel of variations in the details to suit the principles
small-bore cylinders, cavern-like passages, set forth in these notes, by adding superheating
straight-slide valve-gears of the “ grasshopper ” equipment, mechanical lubrication, and the
type, smokebox “ condensers, ” and all the other usual blobs and gadgets ; got busy on the job,
relics of bygone days, to build a similar locomotive with the result you see in the picture.
to that mentioned above, but embodying all the All being well, I hope to give dimensions and
principles for which he professedly stands. The more details when the engine is finished ; suffice
driving-wheels to be 3-3/8 in. diameter ; the it to say that “ Brother Bill ” is demonstrating
boiler barrel to be 2-3/4 in. diameter, and the grate that he can build the unfamiliar British type of
3 in. x 1 in. ; I’ll give him the benefit of the locomotive, as well as he can the American
odd fractions. Working pressure 80 lb., same type with which he is so much more familiar ;
as my own. The engine to be tested on my she looks all right in the picture, and those who
own road by Messrs. Barlow and Hobbs,. as have seen her, say she is a real swell job. There
above ; I don’t think they will need asking twice, is one thing that I am very sure of ; the engine is
for their co-operation ! If the suggested loco- very small, compared with the majority of the
motive puts up a better performance than my locomotives that run on the track at Danvers,
own, or equals it on a lower consumption of fuel especially her “ scale ” boiler, but the way that P
and water, I’ll not only give the builder “ best,” boiler will steam, and the speed and power of ta
but freely acknowledge it in these columns. Tilly, will make the owners and builders of the
Curly has never yet failed to give credit where big American-type engines sit up and take notice. ;
due ! If, on the other hand, my engine licks the For some unknown reason, most of our trans- m
other one hollow,, the builder must acknowledge atlantic cousins are afraid of really hot steam,
his failure in the correspondence columns, and but Bill has no doubts about its desirability, Z
admit that my principles are right, after all. as his Atlantic has an efficient superheater. bc
Fair enough ? Here’s wishing the “ exile ” all success ! Inci- T
Maybe you’ll wonder why I emphasised dentally, she will have an injector of myownmake, VC
the word " professedly ” in the above paragraph. as I am, ar time of writing, making one to send Ul
Well, I’ll tell you ; as Ripley says, believe it across to her ; otherwise Juniper, the Atlantic, W
or not, but it is gospel truth. A “ club ” engine will be causing some jealousy ! D
is being built by three or four members who arc in
" a n t i - L.B.S.C.’ ” One of these met another Priming in New Boilers th
locomotive enthusiast in the course of business ; The following tip may save correspondence bc
and speaking of the “ club ” engine, mentioned and trouble. Locomotive builders, especially ta
some dimensions of cylinders, etc. The “ L E ” beginners, often write and say they have completed 01
said, “ Why, those are the sizes recommended one of my engines, according to “ words and W
by ‘L.B.S.C.’ ” The other replied, “Of course music,” but they are troubled with excessive W
they are-but we’re taking good care not to let priming ; the water won’t stay in the boiler but is kc
him know it ! ” My object in relating the above, is thrown out of the chimney., and the gauge-glass 01
merely to ensure that any answer to the challenge, won’t give a correct reading for toffee-apples. E:
is built strictly in accordance with the principles They seem to think either something is wrong with
the builders profess to admire. " Nuff sed ! ” the arrangement of regulator and pipes, or that :
they have slipped up somewhere in the construc- @
A Long Way from Southend-on-Sea ! tion. Neither is the case. If you do a brazing job, SC
The ‘partly-finished locomotive shown in the pickle and clean it, and put it aside’ for a few if
accompanying picture is of unusual interest, days, in 99 cases out of a 100 you will find a ea
inasmuch as although it is a purely British type white deposit forming all along the joint, no
of engine, it will probably never run on Rritish matter how carefully it has been cleaned. Well,
metals. One of my friends, over the big pond, it is just this stuff inside the boiler, which not
to wit Mr. W. S. Van Brocklin, of Roslindale, only causes the priming, but the cloudy appear-
Mass., whose Atlantic- type engine has been ance of the water-gauge after a run or two;
mentioned in these notes, said he would like to Water impregnated with borax will prime like
build a British engme with a similar wheel a fountain in Trafalgar Square. The borax used
arrangement. Having seen Carl Purinton’s in brazing the joints, gets inside the boiler
818
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949
whilst the brazing job is in process, and sticks better is available. Although there isn’t much
like glue. You can scour or chip the residue off stress on the piston-rod gland, owing to the
the outside of the boiler, but not the inside ; crosshead and guide-bars doing the needful,
and any remaining, which the pickling has not the long spindle gland has to do the guiding as
removed, will impregnate the water, and cause well, so should be made from wear-resisting
priming, and cloudy gauge-glasses. What I material. Whatever material is used. the job is
usually do, is to give the boiler a jolly good boil done the same way. Chuck the piece of rod in
out with a strong solution of washing soda, the three-jaw ; the chuck will hold the hexagon

Photo by] Mr. W. S. Van Brocklin’s “ Tilly ” [A. Milburn

taking care not to let any get down to the cylinders, metal as well as it will hold round stock. Face i
and keeping all valves shut. The boiler is off the end, and centre with a Slocomb-type drill,
filled as full as possible, after the boiling, adding making the countersink deep enough to allow a
more soda solution, or topping up with hot No. 24 drill to enter. This is important, because
water. The solution is left in for a full day ; the holes for piston-rod and spindle must be
then boiled up again, emptied out, and the dead in the middle of the gland, otherwise the i
boiler given a thorough wash out with hot water. rods will bind when the gland is tightened. If ’
This removes all traces of the borax, and it is the drill just enters the countersink, it will make
very unlikely that further priming will occur, a hole slap-bang in the middle ; but if the .
unless the water is full of chalk and lime deposit, countersink is shallow, and the drill starts to
which will “ fur it up,” and restart the fountains. cut on the sharp edge, the odds are 99 to I that
Dirty boilers are a very frequent cause of priming it will take off more from one side than the other,
in full size ,= you can always tell this trouble by and the hole will be out of truth. Beginners
the streaks down the smokebox and along the should bear this in mind ; even our more ex-
boiler cleading. In districts where water con- perienced friends have slipped up on the same.
tains impurities, little boilers should be washed point, on occasion ! Drill down about 5/8 in. for
out very frequently ; at my old home at Norbury, the spindle gland, and about 1/2 in. for the piston
where Ayesha was “ born,” boilers required gland. Face off the end, just sufficiently to take
washing but after twenty hours’ steaming, to out all traces of the countersink ; then turn down
keep them reasonably clean. We had to clean the end to 5/16 in. diameter, 3/8 in. length for the
out the domestic kettles every week. Here, the spindle gland, and 5/16 in. length for the piston
East Surrey water is so “ clean” that neither gland. Screw 5/16 in. by 32 or 40, to match the
boilers nor kettles ever require washing out ; threads in the stuffing-box. The steam-chest
the only trouble is, that a green deposit forms in bosses will be tapped same pitch as the stuffing-
gunmetal and brass fittings, and in copper pipes, box on the back cylinder cover already described,
so that weeny injector cones soon become choked Part off 1/8 in. from the shoulder. You need two
if not frequently cleaned out. However, it is piston-rod and two spindle glands, so make the
easier to clean an injector than wash out a boiler ! lot whilst at it.
Make a tapped bush to hold in the three-jaw.
Beginners’ Corner-Glands for “ Tich ” A bit of 1/2in. round rod, about 1/2 in. long, will do
Cylinders nicely. Chuck it, face, centre, drill right
The glands for both piston-rods and valve- through with letter J or 9/32-in. drill, countersink
spindles are the same, except for length. The the end slightly with letter 0 or 5/16in. drill, and
best material to use is 3/8in. hexagon rod, either tap 5/16 in. by 32 or 40, to match the glands.
drawn or cast bronze. Gunmetal also does well, Skim off any burring on the face ; then screw
but soft brass should only be used if nothing each gland into it, skim the faces, chamfer the
819

! ,a
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949
corners of the hexagon, and run a 5/32-in. parallel shaping machine, and the contact faces cleaned off
reamer through the hole. Before removing the by aid of a round-nose tool in the clapper-box,
tapped bush from the chuck, make a centre-pop using a square-nose for finishing off the extreme
opposite No. I jaw, or mark it with a figure punch, edges next to the bosses. If your lathe is a good
so that you can keep it handy for use in holding stout one with plenty of “ meat ” in it, so that
screwed fittings, and can replace it truly any time it doesn’t spring, the contact faces could be J
it is needed. I have a box full of these tapped milled, as given above, with the casting set at
bushes ; and very handy they are too ! correct height in a machine-vice on the saddle,
and the cutter on an arbor between centres ;
Steam-chests see illustration of axle box milling by same
The steam-chests may either have the bosses process, which appeared in the “ chapter”
cast on, or they may be separate, and screwed in.
Both kinds are shown on the drawings. If a
dealing with axleboxes. Flimsy lathes are useless
for milling.
I
WI
planing, shaping or milling machine is available, If separate bosses are used. all vou have to do. Pi
the cast-on bosses are best ; but beginners who is to set up the casting in the four-jaw chuck; it
have onlv a small lathe and not much eauiument. contact face outwards, and face it off with a SC
may find the separate bosses the better proposi- round-nose tool ; reverse in chuck, and repeat
tion, for reasons you will see below. Chuck the process on the other face, leaving the steam-chest E
first-mentioned type of casting in the three-jaw, 1/2 in. from top to bottom. The sides and ends can Of
holding by one of the bosses, and set the other be filed up ; a nice little exercise in the use of that w
boss to run truly. Leave the chuck jaws slightly humble but very necessary metal-disintegrator. u!
slack, and tap the outer boss with a small spanner On the centre-line of each end, at the side farthest in
or anything light, until it ceases to wobble. away from the little boss, and 13/32 in. from the
Tighten chuck jaws, and centre the boss deeply edge, make a heavy centre-pop at each end. tc
with a centre-drill. The tailstock, with the centre Then put a 1/8in. drill in the three-jaw ; hold the di
point in the barrel, can then be run up to support casting against it, with the drill point in one
the boss, while you turn same, and face off the centre-pop. Bring up the tailstock, set the point it
end of the steam-chest. This is done with a in the other centre-pop, and turn the wheel or ir
knife-tool set in slightly towards the headstock, handle. The drill must of necessity go through tc
which prevents chattering ; and don’t have the in line with the other pop. Then reverse the S<
tool projecting from the rest farther than steam-chest, and ditto repeato, the centre this ir
necessary to reach the boss, without the steam- time entering the first hole. Both holes will ai
chest fouling the rest as it revolves. Repeat then be in line. Repeat operations with 11/32-in. P
operation t o turn the other boss, gripping-the or letter R drill, and tap 3/8 in. by 32 or 40. The 0:
turned one in the chuck. When the second one steam-pipe boss is drilled 5/32 in. and tapped b
is turned. drill. counterbore. and tap it exactly 3/16 in. by 40. For the plain boss, merely chuck a
as already described for the stuffing-box on the piece of 5/8in. round rod in three-jaw ; face the z
back cylinder cover. Don’t forget that the tapped end, turn down 1/4in. length to 3/8in. diameter,
boss is the one farthest away from the little boss screw 3/8in. by 32 or 40, and part off 3/8in. from
at the side of the steam-chest, which is for shoulder. Reverse in chuck, skim off any burr,
attachment of steam pipe, and will be cast on in and slightly chamfer. For the gland boss, face,
any case. turn and screw as above ; but before parting off,
The sides of the steam-chest can be smoothed centre, and drill down to about 3/4 in. depth with
off with a file. Careful filing would also do for No. 21 drill. After parting. reverse in chuck.
the contact faces, if no method of machining is and grip by the plain part ; t h e n open out, drill;
available ; but they should be milled or planed. and tap, exactly as described for the stuffing-box
If you own, or have the use of a milling machine, on the back cylinder cover.
it is a simple job to hold the casting in the Set out the position of the screw-holes in the
machine-vice, and run it under a small slabbing wall of the steam-chest, as shown in the recent
cutter on the arbor, taking sufficient cuts to illustration ; drill them either on the drilling
cover the whole surface of the contact face of the machine, or in the lathe, as per previous drilling
casting, without altering the height adjustment instructions. Screw the bosses into place with
of the table. I do all mine that way, if they have a taste of plumbers’ jointing on the threads,
cast-on bosses. The casting could also be held and another good job is done. Next, cover,
in a machine-vice on the table of a planing or valves and spindles, and assembly.

For the Bookshelf

Woodturning for the Beginner.‘. By A. and the author very commendably devotes the
Macbeth. (London : Percival Marshall & first part of the book to a description of workshop
Co. Ltd.) price 3s. 6d. equipment, including a home-made lathe, and
Of the various branches of woodwork, none simple attachments, many of which can be con-
offer more interestine possibilities than that of structed as and when the ‘occasion arises. The
woodturning, which can be applied equally well succeeding chapters deal with tools, timber,
to the production of objects either of utility mounting and turning work, finishing and
or beauty. Although efficient, and sometimes polishing. Appendices dealing with safety
elaborate- and expensive woodturning lathes are precautions, and a list of simple objects suitable
available, it is quite possible to turn out excellent for the beginner, with appropriate illustrations,
work on a simple and elementary form of lathe, complete this practical little handbook.
820
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949
whilst the brazing job is in process, and sticks better is available. Although there isn’t much
like glue. You can scour or chip the residue off stress on the piston-rod gland, owing to the
the outside of the boiler, but not the inside ; crosshead and guide-bars doing the needful,
and any remaining, which the pickling has not the long spindle gland has to do the guiding as
removed, will impregnate the water, and cause well, so should be made from wear-resisting
priming, and cloudy gauge-glasses. What I material. Whatever material is used. the job is
usually do, is to give the boiler a jolly good boil done the same way. Chuck the piece of rod in
out with a strong solution of washing soda, the three-jaw ; the chuck will hold the hexagon

Photo by] Mr. W. S. Van Brocklin’s “ Tilly ” [A. Milburn

taking care not to let any get down to the cylinders, metal as well as it will hold round stock. Face i
and keeping all valves shut. The boiler is off the end, and centre with a Slocomb-type drill,
filled as full as possible, after the boiling, adding making the countersink deep enough to allow a
more soda solution, or topping up with hot No. 24 drill to enter. This is important, because
water. The solution is left in for a full day ; the holes for piston-rod and spindle must be
then boiled up again, emptied out, and the dead in the middle of the gland, otherwise the i
boiler given a thorough wash out with hot water. rods will bind when the gland is tightened. If ’
This removes all traces of the borax, and it is the drill just enters the countersink, it will make
very unlikely that further priming will occur, a hole slap-bang in the middle ; but if the .
unless the water is full of chalk and lime deposit, countersink is shallow, and the drill starts to
which will “ fur it up,” and restart the fountains. cut on the sharp edge, the odds are 99 to I that
Dirty boilers are a very frequent cause of priming it will take off more from one side than the other,
in full size ,= you can always tell this trouble by and the hole will be out of truth. Beginners
the streaks down the smokebox and along the should bear this in mind ; even our more ex-
boiler cleading. In districts where water con- perienced friends have slipped up on the same.
tains impurities, little boilers should be washed point, on occasion ! Drill down about 5/8 in. for
out very frequently ; at my old home at Norbury, the spindle gland, and about 1/2 in. for the piston
where Ayesha was “ born,” boilers required gland. Face off the end, just sufficiently to take
washing but after twenty hours’ steaming, to out all traces of the countersink ; then turn down
keep them reasonably clean. We had to clean the end to 5/16 in. diameter, 3/8 in. length for the
out the domestic kettles every week. Here, the spindle gland, and 5/16 in. length for the piston
East Surrey water is so “ clean” that neither gland. Screw 5/16 in. by 32 or 40, to match the
boilers nor kettles ever require washing out ; threads in the stuffing-box. The steam-chest
the only trouble is, that a green deposit forms in bosses will be tapped same pitch as the stuffing-
gunmetal and brass fittings, and in copper pipes, box on the back cylinder cover already described,
so that weeny injector cones soon become choked Part off 1/8 in. from the shoulder. You need two
if not frequently cleaned out. However, it is piston-rod and two spindle glands, so make the
easier to clean an injector than wash out a boiler ! lot whilst at it.
Make a tapped bush to hold in the three-jaw.
Beginners’ Corner-Glands for “ Tich ” A bit of 1/2in. round rod, about 1/2 in. long, will do
Cylinders nicely. Chuck it, face, centre, drill right
The glands for both piston-rods and valve- through with letter J or 9/32-in. drill, countersink
spindles are the same, except for length. The the end slightly with letter 0 or 5/16in. drill, and
best material to use is 3/8in. hexagon rod, either tap 5/16 in. by 32 or 40, to match the glands.
drawn or cast bronze. Gunmetal also does well, Skim off any burring on the face ; then screw
but soft brass should only be used if nothing each gland into it, skim the faces, chamfer the
819

! ,a
THE MODEL ENGINEER DECEMBER 29, 1949
corners of the hexagon, and run a 5/32-in. parallel shaping machine, and the contact faces cleaned off
reamer through the hole. Before removing the by aid of a round-nose tool in the clapper-box,
tapped bush from the chuck, make a centre-pop using a square-nose for finishing off the extreme
opposite No. I jaw, or mark it with a figure punch, edges next to the bosses. If your lathe is a good
so that you can keep it handy for use in holding stout one with plenty of “ meat ” in it, so that
screwed fittings, and can replace it truly any time it doesn’t spring, the contact faces could be J
it is needed. I have a box full of these tapped milled, as given above, with the casting set at
bushes ; and very handy they are too ! correct height in a machine-vice on the saddle,
and the cutter on an arbor between centres ;
Steam-chests see illustration of axle box milling by same
The steam-chests may either have the bosses process, which appeared in the “ chapter”
cast on, or they may be separate, and screwed in.
Both kinds are shown on the drawings. If a
dealing with axleboxes. Flimsy lathes are useless
for milling.
I
WI
planing, shaping or milling machine is available, If separate bosses are used. all vou have to do. Pi
the cast-on bosses are best ; but beginners who is to set up the casting in the four-jaw chuck; it
have onlv a small lathe and not much eauiument. contact face outwards, and face it off with a SC
may find the separate bosses the better proposi- round-nose tool ; reverse in chuck, and repeat
tion, for reasons you will see below. Chuck the process on the other face, leaving the steam-chest E
first-mentioned type of casting in the three-jaw, 1/2 in. from top to bottom. The sides and ends can Of
holding by one of the bosses, and set the other be filed up ; a nice little exercise in the use of that w
boss to run truly. Leave the chuck jaws slightly humble but very necessary metal-disintegrator. u!
slack, and tap the outer boss with a small spanner On the centre-line of each end, at the side farthest in
or anything light, until it ceases to wobble. away from the little boss, and 13/32 in. from the
Tighten chuck jaws, and centre the boss deeply edge, make a heavy centre-pop at each end. tc
with a centre-drill. The tailstock, with the centre Then put a 1/8in. drill in the three-jaw ; hold the di
point in the barrel, can then be run up to support casting against it, with the drill point in one
the boss, while you turn same, and face off the centre-pop. Bring up the tailstock, set the point it
end of the steam-chest. This is done with a in the other centre-pop, and turn the wheel or ir
knife-tool set in slightly towards the headstock, handle. The drill must of necessity go through tc
which prevents chattering ; and don’t have the in line with the other pop. Then reverse the S<
tool projecting from the rest farther than steam-chest, and ditto repeato, the centre this ir
necessary to reach the boss, without the steam- time entering the first hole. Both holes will ai
chest fouling the rest as it revolves. Repeat then be in line. Repeat operations with 11/32-in. P
operation t o turn the other boss, gripping-the or letter R drill, and tap 3/8 in. by 32 or 40. The 0:
turned one in the chuck. When the second one steam-pipe boss is drilled 5/32 in. and tapped b
is turned. drill. counterbore. and tap it exactly 3/16 in. by 40. For the plain boss, merely chuck a
as already described for the stuffing-box on the piece of 5/8in. round rod in three-jaw ; face the z
back cylinder cover. Don’t forget that the tapped end, turn down 1/4in. length to 3/8in. diameter,
boss is the one farthest away from the little boss screw 3/8in. by 32 or 40, and part off 3/8in. from
at the side of the steam-chest, which is for shoulder. Reverse in chuck, skim off any burr,
attachment of steam pipe, and will be cast on in and slightly chamfer. For the gland boss, face,
any case. turn and screw as above ; but before parting off,
The sides of the steam-chest can be smoothed centre, and drill down to about 3/4 in. depth with
off with a file. Careful filing would also do for No. 21 drill. After parting. reverse in chuck.
the contact faces, if no method of machining is and grip by the plain part ; t h e n open out, drill;
available ; but they should be milled or planed. and tap, exactly as described for the stuffing-box
If you own, or have the use of a milling machine, on the back cylinder cover.
it is a simple job to hold the casting in the Set out the position of the screw-holes in the
machine-vice, and run it under a small slabbing wall of the steam-chest, as shown in the recent
cutter on the arbor, taking sufficient cuts to illustration ; drill them either on the drilling
cover the whole surface of the contact face of the machine, or in the lathe, as per previous drilling
casting, without altering the height adjustment instructions. Screw the bosses into place with
of the table. I do all mine that way, if they have a taste of plumbers’ jointing on the threads,
cast-on bosses. The casting could also be held and another good job is done. Next, cover,
in a machine-vice on the table of a planing or valves and spindles, and assembly.

For the Bookshelf

Woodturning for the Beginner.‘. By A. and the author very commendably devotes the
Macbeth. (London : Percival Marshall & first part of the book to a description of workshop
Co. Ltd.) price 3s. 6d. equipment, including a home-made lathe, and
Of the various branches of woodwork, none simple attachments, many of which can be con-
offer more interestine possibilities than that of structed as and when the ‘occasion arises. The
woodturning, which can be applied equally well succeeding chapters deal with tools, timber,
to the production of objects either of utility mounting and turning work, finishing and
or beauty. Although efficient, and sometimes polishing. Appendices dealing with safety
elaborate- and expensive woodturning lathes are precautions, and a list of simple objects suitable
available, it is quite possible to turn out excellent for the beginner, with appropriate illustrations,
work on a simple and elementary form of lathe, complete this practical little handbook.
820