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Hkkjrh; ekud IS 9875 : 2018

Indian Standard

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( nwljk iqujh{k.k )

Lipstick — Specification
( Second Revision )

ICS 71.100.70

© BIS 2018

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BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
ekud Hkou] 9 cgknqj'kkg T+kiQj ekxZ] ubZ fnYyh&110002
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI-110002
www.bis.org.in www.standardsbis.in

September 2018 Price Group 3

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Cosmetics Sectional Committee, PCD 19

FOREWORD
This Indian Standard (Second Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards , after the draft finalized
by the Cosmetics Sectional Committee had been approved by the Petroleum, Coal and Related Products Division
Council.
Colour for lip adorning is available in two main forms : lipstick and lipgloss or lip rouge. Lipstick consists of a
homogeneous suspension of colour in a fatty base, available in the form of shiny stick mounted on propelling type
of holder whereas lipgloss or lip rouge is composed of the colours used in lipsticks suspended or dissolved in oil
containing film forming additives. It is applied with brush. In this standard, lipsticks only have been covered.
This standard was first published in 1981. The Committee at that time included an informative annex wherein
certain performance tests namely breaking load, penetrometer value, particle size of undispersed particles and
pay-off test were included for information only. These tests were largely in-house quality control checks being
exercised by a limited number of manufacturers and it was expected that by including them in standard, adequate
data/experience would be available in due course, so as to specify them as requirements objectively in the standard.
This standard was first revised in 1990. In the first revision, all of the above-mentioned parameters were included
as regular tests except for penetrometer test. Penetrometer test was performed to check the softness of lipstick.
From the experience gained it has been found that this test is not very accurate and reliable because of the poor
repeatability of results. Secondly the softening character of lipstick is well taken care of by another requirement
namely softening point. Also a new requirement for rancidity (peroxide number) is being included in this revision
to check the bad odour of lipstick.
In this revision, the subjective requirement of pay-off test has been replaced by limiting values. Also, unit of
breaking load value has been incorporated. This revision includes all the 6 amendments to its previous version.
No stipulations have been made in this standard regarding the composition of lipsticks. However, it is necessary
that the raw materials used are such that in the concentrations in which they would be present in the finished
lipstick, after interaction with other raw materials used in the formulation, are free from any harmful effects. It
shall be the responsibility of the manufacturers of lipstick to satisfy themselves of the safety of their formulation
before releasing it for sale.
For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value,
observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2 : 1960
‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off
value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.
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IS 9875 : 2018

Indian Standard
LIPSTICK — SPECIFICATION
( Second Revision )
1 SCOPE of lipstick shall comply with the provisions of
IS 4707 (Part 1) subject to the provisions of schedule Q
This standard prescribes the requirements and methods
of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act and Rules issued by the
of sampling and test for lipstick.
Government of India, and as amended from time to time.
2 REFERENCES 3.2.2 Other Ingredients
The standards, listed in Annex A contain provisions, Ingredients other than dyes, colours and pigments shall
which through reference in this text, constitute comply with the provisions of IS 4707 (Part 2).
provisions of this standard. At the time of publication,
the editions indicated were valid. All standards are 3.2.3 For safety evaluation of novel ingredients used
subject to revision and parties to agreements based on in formulation of lipstick, the lipstick shall comply to
this standard are encouraged to investigate the IS 4011.
possibility of applying the most recent editions of the 3.3 The lipstick shall also comply with the requirements
standards indicated at Annex A. given in Table 1 when tested according to methods
prescribed in Annex B and IS 14648. Reference to relevant
3 REQUIREMENTS
clauses of Annex B is given in co1 4 of the Table 1.
3.1 Description
3.4 Additional requirement for ECO-Mark
The lipstick shall be firm but not brittle in texture. It
3.4.1 General Requirements
shall have an attractive appearance, pleasant taste and
feel on the lips and shall be reasonably free from 3.4.1.1 The product shall conform to the requirements
sweating, bloom and rancidity. for quality, safety and performance prescribed
under 3.1 to 3.3.
3.2 Ingredients
3.4.1.2 All the ingredients that go into formulation of
Unless specified otherwise, all the raw materials used cosmetics shall comply with the provisions for IS 4707
in the manufacture of lipstick shall conform to the (Part 1) and IS 4707 (Part 2).
requirements prescribed in the relevant Indian
Standards, where such standards exist. The product shall also meet specific requirements as
given in the standard.
3.2.1 Dyes, Colours and Pigments
3.4.1.3 The product package shall display a list of
The dyes, colours and pigments used in the manufacture ingredients in descending order of quantity present.

Table 1 Requirements for Lipstick

(Clause 3.3)
Sl Characteristic Requirement Method of Test, Ref to
No.
(1) (2) (3) (4)
i) Softening point, Min 55°C B-2
ii) Microbiological content/limit total viable count, cfu/g Not more than 1 000 IS 14648
iii) Gram negative pathogens Absent do
iv) Rancidity (peroxide number), Max 10 B-3
v) Breaking load value, g, Min1) 200 B-4
vi) Freedom from grittiness Pass the test B-5
vii) Pay off test, g/cm2 0.01–0.25 B-6
viii) Arsenic (as As2O3), parts per million, Max 2 B-7
ix) Heavy metals (as Pb) parts per million, Max 20 B-8

1)
The breaking load value of 200 g (Min) may not applicable for finner lipsticks for which the values range can be as agreed to between
the supplier and the buyer.

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IS 9875 : 2018

3.4.1.4 The product shall not be manufactured from NOTE — This is exempted in case of pack size of
10 g/25 ml or less and if the shelf life of the product is
any carcinogenic ingredients.
more than 24 months.
3.4.1.5 The manufacturer shall produce to BIS the g) List of key ingredients.
environmental consent clearance from the concerned
State Pollution Control Board as per the provisions of NOTE — This is exempted in case of pack size of
30 g/60 ml or less.
Water (Prevention & Control of Pollution) Cess Act,
1981 and the Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) 4.3.1 The container may also be marked with the
Act, 1981along with the authorization, if required under Standard Mark, details of which may be obtained from
Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 and Rules made the Bureau of Indian Standards.
thereunder while applying for ECO-Mark. Additionally,
4.3.2 The product package shall be suitably marked
provisions of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 and
that ECO-Mark label is applicable only to the contents,
the Rules there under shall also be complied with.
if the product package is not separately covered under
3.4.2 Specific Requirement the ECO-Mark scheme.
3.4.2.1 Product shall be dermatologically safe when 5 SAMPLING
tested as prescribed in IS 4011.
5.1 Representative samples of the material shall be
3.4.2.2 Heavy metals calculated as lead (Pb) and arsenic drawn and criteria for conformity of the material in a
as (AS2O3) shall not exceed 20 and 2 ppm, respectively lot to the requirements of the specification shall be
when tested by the respective method prescribed in determined according to the procedure given in IS 3958.
Indian Standards.
5.1.1 Softening point, peroxide number, breaking load,
4 PACKING AND MARKING particle size and pay off test shall be tested on each of
the individual samples and tests for remaining
4.1 Packing requirements shall be carried out on the composite
Each lipstick shall be packed in a metallic, plastic or sample.
any other suitable container.
5.2 Criteria for Conformity
4.2 The material for product packaging shall meet the
x 5.2.1 For Individual Sample
parameters envolved under the scheme of labelling
environment friendly packaging/packaging materials. The mean x and Range R for the test results shall be
calculated (range being the difference between the
4.3 Marking maximum and the minimum test results). The lot shall
Each container shall bear a label marked with the be declared to have satisfied the requirement for test
following information: mentioned in 5.1.1 if the value of expression ( – 0.6 R)
for each characteristic is equal to or greater than 99.
a) Indication of the source of manufacture;
b) Shade number or shade name; 5.2.2 For Composite Sample
c) Batch number, in code or otherwise, to enable The test results on the composite sample shall meet the
the lot of manufacture to be traced back from corresponding requirements specified in Table 1.
the records;
A lot shall be declared as conforming to this
d) Year of manufacture; and specification, if it satisfies the requirements for each
e) Any other particulars required by the Statutory of the characteristic listed in Table 1. If the requirements
Authorities. for any of the characteristics are not met, the lot shall
f) Best use before …. (Month and year to be be declared to have not satisfied the requirements of
declared by the manufacturer) the specification.

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IS 9875 : 2018

ANNEX A
(Clause 2)
LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS

IS No. Title IS No. Title

264 : 2005 Nitric acid 4707 Classification of cosmetics raw
265 : 1993 Hydrochloric acid materials and adjuncts
266 : 1993 Sulphuric acid (Part 1) : 2017 Colourants
695 : 1986 Acetic acid (Part 2) : 2017 List of raw materials generally not
1070 : 1992 Reagent grade water recognized as safe for use in
2088 : 1983 Methods for determination of cosmetics
arsenic 5296 : 1995 Chloroform, pure and technical
3958 : 1984 Methods of sampling cosmetics 14648 : 2011 Methods of test for
4011 : 1997 Methods of test for safety microbiological examination of
evaluation of cosmetics cosmetics and cosmetic raw
materials.

ANNEX B
(Clause 3.3)
METHODS OF TEST FOR LIPSTICK

B-1 QUALITY OF REAGENTS B-3 RANCIDITY (PEROXIDE NUMBER)

Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals and distilled B-3.0 General
water (see IS 1070) shall be employed in tests.
This test when carried out on dark coloured lipsticks is
NOTE — ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that do not
likely to be vitiated because end point in determination
contain impurities which affect the results of analysis.
of peroxide number may not be very sharp. In such
B-2 SOFTENING POINT cases, it is expected, as a good manufacturing practice,
manufacturer should check rancidity of lipstick raw
B-2.1 Apparatus materials, especially vegetable oils and other rancidity
B-2.1.1 Flat Bottom Tube, 12 cm long and 2.5 cm in prone materials regularly in lipsticks base mixtures
diameter. without colours, by peroxide number test.

B-2.1.2 Thermometer, accurate to 0.1°C. B-3.1 Reagents

B-2.2 Procedure B-3.1.1 Acetic Acid — See IS 695.

Place the lipstick with protruded salve in the flat B-3.1.2 Chloroform — See IS 5296.
bottom tube. Fix the thermometer through a cork in B-3.1.3 Potassium Iodide Solution — Saturated.
such a way that the bulb of the thermometer just
touches the lipstick salve. Insert this arrangement into B-3.1.4 Sodium Thiosulphate Solution —
a 1 litre beaker filled with water to a level one Approximately 0.01 N.
centimeter above the upper tip of the lipstick salve. B-3.1.5 Starch Solution — Freshly prepared.
Slowly heat the water while stirring so that temperature
rises at a rate not exceeding 2°C/min. When the B-3.2 Procedure
temperature reaches about 45°C, raise the temperature Weigh 5.0 ± 0.05 g of lipstick sample in a 250 ml
at the rate of 1°C/min. Constantly watch the lipstick conical flask and dissolve in 30 ml of acetic acid-
salve. Record the temperature when the salve starts chloroform mixture (3:2). Heat, if necessary to dissolve
bending and loosing its shape. the sample. Add 0.5 ml of freshly made saturated

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IS 9875 : 2018

potassium iodide solution. Shake and after two minutes B-6.1 Apparatus
add 30 ml of distilled water and then titrate with 0.01 N B-6.1.1 The apparatus (see Fig. 1) consists of constant
sodium thiosulphate solution using starch as an indicator. speed electric motor A of power 180 W (0.25 hp
B-3.3 Calculation approximately) attached to gear arrangement B which
pulls the strip of paper F (about 7 cm wide) from a
Peroxide number = Milli equivalents peroxide per roller C on to another roller G fixed on platform D
1 000 g sample through supports H. A slot arrangement B having a
A  N 1 000 cylindrical tube of 4 cm length and 1.7 cm diameter is
= Mass of sample also fixed on the platform.

where B-6.1.2 Constant Speed Motor, of power 180 W

(0.25 hp approximately) attached to gear’ Arrangement
A = volume of sodium thiosulphate, in ml, and which pulls the strip of paper over a fixed platform.
N = normality of sodium thiosulphate solution. B-6.1.3 Paper, 7 cm wide roll.
B-4 BREAKING LOAD TEST B-6.1.4 Slot Arrangement, inner diameter 1.7 cm and
B-4.0 General length 4 cm (for inserting lipstick).

This test gives the value of maximum load a lipstick B-6.2 Procedure
can withstand before it breaks. Chop off the portion of lipstick salve one centimeter from
the tip using a sharp blade. Rub remaining portion of the
B-4.1 Apparatus
salve on a piece of paper and make the end portion
B-4.1.1 Burette — 500 ml capacity. perfectly flat. Run the constant speed motor and
B-4.1.2 Screw Chuck, to hold the lipstick. determine the time required for pulling out 100 cm of
paper length. Weigh the lipstick with chopped off tip on
B-4.1.3 Aluminium Cup, of 6 cm diameter and 12 cm a balance accurately. Insert this lipstick in the slot
length with an arrangement of a hook to suspend it on arrangement so that the flattened salve portion rests on
lipstick salve. the surface of the paper strip (see Fig. 2). Place a total
B-4.2 Procedure load of 50 g including mass of the 1ipstick on top of the
lipstick. Start the constant speed motor and with the help
Fix firmly the lipstick container with protruded salve of of stopwatch allow 100 cm length of piper to run. Re-
diameter ranging 11 to 13 mm, into a screw type of chuck weigh the lipstick after the rub off and measure the length
so that the assembly is perfectly horizontal. Adjust the and width of the line drawn on the paper strip.
burette just above the lipstick salve. Make a marking at
a distance of 1.5 cm from the base of the salve where B-6.3 Calculation
lipstick salve sits in salve holder cup. Weigh the
aluminium container along with hook and suspend it on M1 – M 2
Pay-off, g/cm2 =
this 1.5 cm mark slowly release water from the burette l ×b
into the aluminium container till the salve breaks. Burette where
reading added with the mass of the suspended container
gives the breaking load of the lipstick. M1 = mass of the lipstick before the test, in g;
M2 = mass of the lipstick after the test, in g;
B-5 FREEDOM FROM GRITTINESS
l = length of the line drawn on paper strip, in
B-5.1 Procedure cm; and
Collect approximately 0.5 g of lipstick paste and spread b = breadth in cm of the line drawn on paper
the paste on butter paper on a HMHD sheet. strip, in cm.
Test the paste by pressing it along the length by a finger B-7 TEST FOR ARSENIC
for presence of any hard and sharp edged abrasive
B-7.1 Reagents
particles which will be distinguished readily. The material
shall be free from hard and sharp edged particles. B-7.1.1 Concentrated Sulphuric Acid — See IS 266.
B-7.1.2 Concentrared Nitric Acid — See IS 264.
B-6 PAY-OFF TEST
B-7.2 Procedure
B-6.0 General
B-7.2.1 Preparation of Sample
This test gives the idea of mass release from the lipstick
salve. Weigh 2 000 g of the sample in a Kjeldahl flask of

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IS 9875 : 2018

A — Constant speed electric meter E — Cylindrical tube arrangement for putting lipstick under test
B — Gear arrangement for speed transfer F — Paper strip
C — Rollers G — Roller for keeping marked paper strip
D — Platform H — Support for rollers

FIG. 1 D ETAILS OF PAY-OFF MEASURING INSTRUMENT

500 ml capacity. Add 15 ml of concentrated sulphuric B-8 TEST FOR HEAVY METALS
acid followed by 4 ml of concentrated nitric acid. Heat
cautiously. Add drop by drop more nitric acid, if B-8.0 Outline of the Method
required, from a pipette to speed up the oxidation of The colour produced with hydrogen sulphide solution
the sample, the total amount of nitric acid shall be noted is matched against that obtained with standard lead
for use in the control test. When oxidation is complete, solution.
the solution is a clear and faint yellow; at that stage,
add 20 ml of water and again boil to fuming. Ensure B-8.1 Apparatus
removal of all nitric acid.
B-8.1.1 Nessler Cylinders — 50 ml capacity.
B-7.2.2 Carry out the test for arsenic with the solution
prepared in A-8.2.1 as given in IS 2088. Compare the B-8.2 Reagents
strain obtained with that produced with 0.004 g of
B-8.2.1 Dilute Hydrochloric Acid — Approximately
arsenic trioxide.
5 N.

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IS 9875 : 2018

F IG. 2 M ANNER OF KEEPING LIPSTICK FOR TEST

B-8.2.2 Dilute Acetic Acid — Approximately 1 N. hydrochloric acid, warm (wait till no more dissolves)
B-8.2.3 Dilute Ammonium Hydroxide — and make up the volume to 50 ml. Filter the solution.
Approximately 5 N. Transfer 25 ml of the filtrate into a Nessler’s cylinder.
In the second Nessler’s cylinder add 2 ml of dilute acetic
B-8.2.4 Hydrogen Sulphide Solution — Saturated. acid, 1.0 ml of standard lead solution and make up the
B-8.2.5 Standard Lead Solution — Dissolve 1.600 g volume with water to 25 ml.
of lead nitrate in water and make up the solution to Add 1 0ml of hydrogen sulphide solution to each
1 000 ml. Pipette out 10 ml of the solution and dilute
Nessler cylinder and make up the volume with water
again to 1 000 ml with water. One millilitre of this
to 50 ml. Mix and allow to stand for 10 min. Compare
solution contains 0.01 mg of lead (as Pb).
the colour produced in the two Nessler’s cylinders.
B-8.3 Procedure B-8.3.1 The limit prescribed in Table 1 shall be taken
Weigh accurately about 1.0 g of material in a crucible as not having been exceeded, if the intensity of colour
and heat on a hot plate and then in a muffle furnace to produced in the test with the material is not greater
ignite it at 600°C to constant weight. Add 3 ml of dilute than that produced in the second Nessler cylinder.

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harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods
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Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), BIS.

Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewed
periodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes are
needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standards
should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of
‘BIS Catalogue’ and ‘Standards : Monthly Additions’.

This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc No.: PCD 19 (10361).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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