R E A D M E F I R S T

kRead through this document before starting your project 3

e Sailor Fuku Shirt Pa ern

THIS DOCUMENT INCLUDES:
A SIZE CHART
A SUPPLIES LIST
F A B R I C YA R D A G E E S T I M A T E S
A P R I N T A S S E M B LY G U I D E
M O D I F I C AT I O N T I P S
A S S E M B LY I N S T R U C T I O N S

F O R P E R S O N A L U S E O N LY. D O N O T R E D I S T R I B U T E O R R E S E L L T H I S D O C U M E N T O R I T S C O N T E N T S . 1 OF 38
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 SIZE C H ART
Patterns are designed to t a standardized size range.
Take measurements before starting your project.

This pattern is designed with minimal ease for a tted look. Select a size from the chart below
based on your measurements. If you are in between sizes, size up and consider making a mock-
up so you can modify the pattern to best t your needs.

WOMEN’S PATTERN SIZE CHART

US Size XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL

Bust (Inch) 32-33 34-35 36-37 38-40 41-43 44-46 47-50 51-54

Waist (Inch) 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-36 37-40 41-44

Hip (Inch) 34-35 36-37 38-39 40-41 42-44 45-47 48-51 52-55

Bust (CM) 81-84 86-89 91-94 96-101 104-109 112-117 119-127 130-137

Waist (CM) 60-64 66-69 71-74 76-79 81-84 86-91 94-102 104-112

Hip (CM) 86-89 91-94 96-99 101-104 107-112 114-120 122-130 132-140

R ECOM M EN D ED FA B R ICS
Shirt Fabric: Poplin, Broadcloth, Oxford
Collar & Cuff Fabric: Poplin, Twill, Broadcloth
Bow / Neck Tie Fabric: Poplin, Satin, Taffeta, Broadcloth

The recommended fabrics types listed above are suggestions for suitable materials.
They are not requirements. Buy materials based on your own tastes, budget and availability.

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 S UP PL IES
Supplies with an asterisk (*) are optional or dependent on the method of construction you prefer.
Tools with an asterisk (*) are optional but will make your crafting process easier.
Please read through the pattern instructions before buying your supplies.

SUPP LIES
FA B R I C
MATCHING THREAD
7” ZIPPER (INVISIBLE OR REGULAR)
2-6 SNAPS
4-10 YARDS OF TWILL TAPE OR OTHER TRIM
⅜-½ WIDE RIBBON OR ELASTIC*

SUGG ESTE D TOOLS

FA B R I C S C I S S O R S
PINKING SHEARS
IRON
TAILOR’S CHALK OR WASHABLE MARKER
ZIPPER FOOT (OR INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT)
NEEDLES FOR HAND SEWING

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 YAR DAG E
Fabric estimates provided below are for 58” wide fabrics. The yardage you will need will vary
depending on fabric width. To get the most accurate estimate possible, print out your speci c size and
tape it together. Using a measuring tape or yard stick, calculate yardage based on the width of fabric
you plan to use.

XS MA LL
S H I RT FA B R I C : 1 ½ YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

SM ALL
S H I RT FA B R I C : 1 ¾ YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

M EDIUM
S H I RT FA B R I C : 1 ¾ YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

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LARGE
S H I RT FA B R I C : 1 ¾ YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

EX TRA L A RG E
S H I RT FA B R I C : 1 ¾ YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

2X LA RGE
S H I RT FA B R I C : 2 YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : ¾ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

3X LARGE
S H I RT FA B R I C : 2 YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : 1 YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

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 4X LARG E
S H I RT FA B R I C : 2 YA R D S AT 5 8 ” W I D E
CO L L A R & C U F F FA B R I C : 1 YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E
B O W O R N E C K T I E FA B R I C : ½ YA R D AT 5 8 ” W I D E

FABR IC C O NV ERS I O N
Fabric estimates are provided for 58” wide fabrics, an international standard size of fabric. What is
available in your local store may vary in width. The chart below provides a rough estimate for
converting fabric widths. Use it in combination with your own estimates based on using a measuring
tape or yard stick to calculate yardage after assembling the pattern pieces for your size.

150 140 127 115 104 100 90 81

58” 54” 50” 45” 41” 39” 36” 32”
cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm

Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yard Meter

1 0.90 1⅛ 1.00 1¼ 1.10 1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1½ 1.40 1¾ 1.60 1⅞ 1.70

1¼ 1.10 1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 1¾ 1.60 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10

1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 2 1.80 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30

1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 1¾ 1.60 2⅛ 1.90 2¼ 2.10 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2¾ 2.50

1¾ 1.60 1⅞ 1.70 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2½ 2.30 2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90

1⅞ 1.70 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2¾ 2.50 2¾ 2.50 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10

2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2⅜ 2.20 2¾ 2.50 2⅞ 2.60 3 2.70 3⅜ 3.10 3¾ 3.40

2¼ 2.10 2⅜ 2.20 2⅝ 2.40 2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90 3¼ 3.00 3¾ 3.40 4 3.70

2⅜ 2.20 2⅝ 2.40 2¾ 2.50 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10 3½ 3.20 4¼ 3.90 4⅜ 4.00

2⅝ 2.40 2¾ 2.50 3 2.70 3⅜ 3.10 3⅝ 3.30 3¾ 3.40 4½ 4.10 4⅝ 4.20

2¾ 2.50 2⅞ 2.60 3¼ 3.00 3⅝ 3.30 3⅞ 3.50 4 3.70 4¾ 4.30 5 4.60

2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10 3⅞ 3.50 4⅛ 3.80 4¼ 3.90 5 4.60 5¼ 4.80

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 PR IN T ASS EM B LY G U ID E
Each pattern is formatted to print on Letter or A4 paper at 100% scale.

M AK E A TEST PR INT
To preform a test print, select only page 2 of the pattern document in your printer menu and print it
by itself at 100% scale. Use the included ruler key to con rm the scale. Print the whole document after
con rming your print setting are correct.

PR INT AND CUT

After printing out your correct pattern size, cut off the bottom and right side of each page along the
dotted lines.

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TAP E PAGES TOGETHE R
Overlap the right edge of a page over the left margin of the next page. Line up the dotted lines and
tape the pages together.

Use the print out placement guide on page 3 of each pattern size to help aid you in taping the whole
document together. Pages have been numbered to help.

WH EN TO RE PRIN T
If you forgot to set your printer to print at 100% scale & it prints too small, you should reprint. Under-
scaled prints can potentially make the pattern too small to t your measurements. If you have pages
that feed through the printer crooked, you should reprint those individual pages. Skewed pages will
prevent the pattern from lining up properly.

A large format printer version of this pattern is included for printing on Arch E & A0 sized
paper. Follow the same general steps when printing these large format les.

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 M ODI FI CAT ION TI P S
This pattern is sized to t a general size run. Your proportions and height may differ from it.
Consider making a mock up in muslin beforehand. Make notes about modi cations to the t or
design on your mock-up. This will improve the look of your completed costume. Below are tips on
how to adjust the pattern to better t your height.

Draw a line across the width of your pattern pieces

at the point where you’d like to adjust the length.
Make sure any changes you make are applied to all
your pattern pieces evenly.

SH ORTE N A PATTER N L E NGT HE N A PATT E RN

To shorten a pattern piece, cut along the line To lengthen a pattern piece, cut along the line
you’ve made and tape the pattern pieces back you’ve made and separate the pattern pieces
together having overlapped them by however by however many inches you wish to lengthen
many inches you wish to shorten the garment the garment. Add a strip of paper behind the
by. pattern pieces and tape them to it.

Using a ruler or a yardstick, redraw the outer edges of your pattern pieces to clean up the changes
you’ve made to them.
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 IN STRU CT IO NS
Check the pattern symbol key on the second page of the printed sewing pattern to familiarize yourself
with all the pattern markings used on this sewing pattern.

A grain line marker is included on most pattern pieces. This symbol indicates a suggestion on how
you should line up a pattern piece on fabric when cutting out the pattern.

GRAIN LINE MARKER

Some pattern pieces may have a ‘Cut on Fold’ marker along an edge that lacks seam allowance. This
indicates that the pattern piece is meant to be cut on folded fabric with this edge resting along the
fold. Cutting a pattern piece out in this manner with create a piece that is mirrored along the fold.

CUT ON FOLD MARKER

This pattern includes ⅝” seam allowance unless otherwise noted in the instructions. Ignoring the
seam allowance built into the pattern pieces can make the pattern not t correctly.

Cut along this line

Sew along this line

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Once you have printed out and taped the pattern document together, cut out the pattern pieces on
the seam allowance line. Separate the pieces according to the fabric you need to use them with.

Place the pattern pieces on the “wrong” side of your fabric, taking note of the indicated grain lines
and any “cut on fold” markers. Depending on the fabric width, print and pattern size used, grain lines
can be lined up with either the straight grain or the crossgrain. Trace your pattern pieces and make
removable marks on the fabric wherever markers are indicated with either tailors chalk or a water
soluble marker.

Cut out your fabrics.

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SAILOR COLLAR
CUT 2 OF FABRIC ON FOLD

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SHIRT BACK
CUT 1 OF FABRIC ON FOLD

CUT 2 OF FABRIC ON FOLD

SAILOR COLLAR
SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

TIE WRAP
CUT 2 OF FABRIC

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SLEEVE CUFF SIZE EXTRA SMALL

CUT 4 OF FABRIC COLLAR BIB

CUT 2 OF FABRIC

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SLEEVE SIZE EXTRA SMALL

BACK FACING
CUT 2 OF FABRIC CUT 1 OF FABRIC ON FOLD

SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SLEEVE CUFF
CUT 4 OF FABRIC
SIZE
FR T 1
EXT
CU

RA
ON OF
SMA
T FA FA
LL
CI BRIC
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ON
FO
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SI
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EX
BO UT

TR

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A
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BR
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TT 2 O

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CU W A SMA
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SM

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SIZE
TR

2
A
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P 2O
SM

BO ABR
BO F
AL
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W IC
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SIZE EXTRA SMALL

SHIRT FRONT
CUT 1 OF FABRIC ON FOLD
SI
SI

ZE
ZE

EX
N UT
EX
N UT

TR
TR

EC 4
EC 4

A
C
A
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SM
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K OF
K OF

AL
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TIE F
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TIE F
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A
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BR
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IC
IC

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Sew the darts of the Shirt Front pieces. With right sides of the fabric facing, fold and pin the darts at
the waistline in half so the sewing lines meet. Sew closed the darts. Press the darts towards the side
seams.
Tip: Ironing over a tailor’s ham will make pressing the darts to shape easier.

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Sew the darts of the Shirt Back pieces. With right sides of the fabric facing, fold and pin the darts at
the waistline in half so the sewing lines meet. Sew closed the darts. Press the darts towards the side
seams.

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With right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Shirt Front to the Shirt Back along the shoulder seams.
Sew the seams and press them open.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Shirt Front to the Shirt Back along one of the side
seams. Choose the side opposite to the one you want to install the zipper into. Sew the seam and
press it open.

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Use the following instructions for installing a regular zipper:
With right sides facing, sew together the remaining shirt side seam starting at the arm opening and
stopping at the pattern marker. Press the seam open. Note: This marker indicates the stopping point
for a 7” zipper. This can be adjusted to t a different zipper length by moving the point lower on the
pattern for a shorter zipper if desired.

Using a basting stitch or hand stitch, tack the zipper in place along the seam allowance at the side
seam, making sure the right side of the zipper is facing the right side of the fabric. Once tacked in
place, turn the shirt right side out and topstitch along the outer edge of the zipper, using a zipper foot
on your machine and sewing through all layers. Note: Make sure not to sew too close to the zipper
teeth or the zipper pull may get caught on the seam.

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Use the following instructions for installing an invisible zipper:
With the right side of the zipper facing the right side of the fabric, use a zipper foot to sew one side of
the zipper to the side seam allowance, stitching as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Repeat on the
opposite side of the seam.
Tip: Before sewing, use an iron to press the zipper teeth away from the zipper tape. This will make
sewing close to the zipper teeth easier.

With right sides facing, sew together the side seam starting at the arm opening and stopping at the
bottom of the installed zipper. Press the seam open when done.

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Fold under the 1” hem along the bottom of the shirt and press it. Hem the shirt by hand stitch or
machine stitch.

Select two of the four Sleeve Cuff pieces. Using the pattern markers as a guide, cut and pin twill tape
or other trim to the cuff pieces. Topstitch the trim in place as desired.

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With right sides of the fabric facing, pair up and pin the Sleeve Cuff pieces with trim applied to them
to the remaining blank cuff pieces, which will act as a lining layer. Sew the cuffs together along the
bottom seam. Press the seam open when done.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Sleeve Cuff to itself along the side seam. Sew
the seam and press it open. Repeat on the opposite cuff.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Sleeve to itself along the side seam. Sew the seam and
press it open. Repeat on the opposite sleeve.

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Create two rows of basting stitches (the longest stitch setting) along the bottom of the Sleeve pieces,
leaving the ends of the threads long so they can be used for gathering. Pull on one side of the threads
to gather the bottom of the Sleeves.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Sleeve to the Sleeve Cuff along the bottom of the
Sleeve, making sure to adjust the gathers on the Sleeve to t the top of the Sleeve Cuff. Sew the
seam and press the seam open. Remove the basting stitches from the Sleeve. Repeat these steps on
the opposite sleeve.

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Turn the sleeves inside out. Fold over and press the bottom half of the Sleeve Cuff up to create a
lining layer for the cuff. Fold under and press the seam allowance. Using a hand stitch, sew the lining
of the cuff in place, hiding the seam allowances within the nished cuff.

Create two rows of basting stitches along the upper sleeve cap seam allowance of the assembled
Sleeves. These will be used to ease the sleeve to t the arm holes of the Shirt.

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Turn the assembled Shirt wrong side out. With right sides of the fabric facing, ease the Sleeves to t
into the arm holes. Pay attention to the markers on the sleeve. V markers indicate the front of the
sleeve, while VV markers indicate the back of the sleeve.

Use these markers to line up the sleeve into the arm holes. Pin the sleeves to the Shirt, adjusting the
easing by hand until satis ed. Sew through all layers. Once done, remove the basting stitches.

Select one of the two Sailor Collar pieces. Using the pattern markers as a guide, cut and pin twill tape
or other trim to the collar. Topstitch the trim in place as desired.

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With right sides of the fabric facing, pin together the Sailor Collar pieces along their outer seam
allowance. Sew the seam, then use pinking shears to trim down the seam allowance to ¼”, making
sure to notch off the back corners so the collar will turn right side out cleanly.

Turn the assembled Sailor Collar right side out through the opening along the inner neckline. Press
the sewn seams of the collar to shape.

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With right sides of the fabric facing, attach the Front Facing piece to the Back Facing along the
shoulder seams. Press them open when done.

Using an overlock or zig-zag stitch, nish the raw seam allowance along the bottom hem of the
assembled facing pieces. Alternatively, you can create a rolled hem to nish the seam allowance.

OR

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Using scissors, clip a notch into the seam allowance of the shirt and the collar facing at the centermost
point of the neckline’s V shape. Be careful not to cut beyond the ⅝” seam allowance. Cutting this
notch will make attaching the collar to the shirt easier.

Next, pin the assembled Sailor Collar to the neckline seam allowance of the assembled Shirt, with
the side of the collar that has decorative trim facing upwards. With right sides facing, pin the
assembled Facing to the neckline, sandwiching the collar between it and the shirt. Sew through all
layers, sewing all the way around the neckline’s seam allowance.

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Use pinking shears to trim down the seam allowance along the neckline to ¼”.

Fold under the facing layer to the inside of the shirt. Press the neckline to shape.

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Fold up the Sailor Collar to expose the neckline under it. Sewing ⅛” to ¼” from the collar seam,
topstitch though the shirt and facing to tack the facing layer in place along the entire neckline. This
will keep the facing from ipping up when worn.

Optional: Use the following instructions for installing a Collar Bib.

Select one of the two Collar Bib pieces. Using the pattern markers as a guide, cut and pin twill tape or
other trim to the collar bib. Topstitch the trim in place as desired.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pin together the Collar Bib pieces along their top seam
allowance. Sew the seam, then turn the assembled bib piece right side out and press the top seam.

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Using an overlock or zig-zag stitch, nish the raw seam allowance along the bottom hem of the
assembled bib.

Using the pattern markers as a guide, sew one half of 4 snaps to the front of the assembled bib piece.

Turn the shirt inside out. Using the pattern markers as a guide, sew the matching half of the 4 snaps
to the collar’s Facing. Snap the bib to the inside neckline of the collar and turn the shirt right side out
again. The bib is designed to be removable to make getting dressed easier.

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Flip up the Sailor Collar. Using the pattern markings as a guide for placement, install one half of 2
snaps to the front of the shirt. These snaps will be hidden by the collar piece when worn.

Optional: Use the following instructions for making a neck Bow.

With right sides of the fabric facing, pair the Top Bow pieces together and sew them to each other
along all sides, leaving a 1” gap in the seam along the top edge to turn the piece right side out
through in a later step. Repeat this process with the Bottom Bow pieces.

Use pinking shears to trim down the seam allowance on both the Top Bow and Bottom Bow to ¼”,
making sure to notch off the corners so the bows will turn right side out cleanly.

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Turn the two assembled bow pieces right side out through the opening left in the top seams. Press
the rectangles to shape, then use a hand stitch to sew the openings in their seam allowances closed.

Using the pattern markings as a guide, create a pleat in the center of each assembled bow piece. Fold
the lines (highlighted below in blue) to meet each other in the center of the bow, folding them over
along the dashed lines (shown below in red.)

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Create a basting stitch down the center of each bow piece to tack the pleats in place.

With right sides facing, sew the Bow Wrap pieces together along the long sides with ¼” seam
allowance. This seam allowance is narrower to allow for this piece to turn right side out cleanly without
the need to trim.

Turn the assembled Bow Wrap right side out through one end and press it to shape.

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Fold the Bow Wrap in half with right sides facing. Sew it to itself along its remaining side seam. Turn
the piece right side out so the seam allowance is no longer visible.

Layer the Top Bow over the the Bottom Bow and feed them through the Bow Wrap piece, so that the
wrap covers the center basting stitches on the bow pieces.

Using a hand stitch, pinch the bottom of the Bow Wrap and Bottom Bow pieces together to create a
nice looking bow shape.

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Using the Bow Strap Cut Guide piece, cut a piece of ribbon, elastic or twill tape to length. Sew on the
matching half of the snaps that were placed along the front neckline of the shirt to the ends of this
bow strap.

Turn the assembled Bow over so the backside of the bow is showing. Feed the Bow Strap under the
Bow Wrap piece.

Flip up the Sailor Collar. Use the snaps on the Bow Strap to attach the bow to the front of the shirt.

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Optional: Use the following instructions for making a Neck Tie.
Select one of the two Tie Wrap pieces. Using the pattern markers as a guide, cut and pin twill tape or
other trim to the tie wrap. Topstitch the trim in place as desired.

With right sides facing, sew the Tie Wrap pieces together along the long sides with ¼” seam
allowance. This seam allowance is narrower to allow for this piece to turn right side out cleanly without
the need to trim.

Fold the Tie Wrap in half with right sides facing. Sew it to itself along its remaining side seam. Turn
the piece right side out so the seam allowance is no longer visible.

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Sew a snap to the center front of the Shirt just under the collar. Attach the corresponding snap to the
back of the Tie Wrap.

Snap the Tie Wrap in place at the front neckline. Alternatively, the Tie Wrap can be sewn to the front
of the shirt if you do not wish to make it removable.

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Follow the next 4 pages for instructions on making detachable pieces that mimic a neck tie. If you wish
to wear a pre-made scarf instead, skip the following instructions and use a 27” to 35” square scarf to
achieve a similar look.

With right sides of the fabric facing, make two sets from the Neck Tie pieces, sewing them to their
pair along all sides, leaving a 1” gap in the seam along the top edge to turn the piece right side out
through in a later step.

Use pinking shears to trim down the seam allowance on the two assembled Neck Ties to ¼”, making
sure to notch off the corners so the ties will turn right side out cleanly.

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Turn the two assembled Neck Ties right side out through the opening left in the top seams. Press the
ties to shape, then use a hand stitch to sew the openings in their seam allowances closed.

Using the pattern markings as a guide, create a pleat at the top of each assembled tie. Fold the lines
(highlighted below in blue) to meet each other at the center top, folding them over along the dashed
lines (shown below in red.)

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Create a basting stitch along the top of each tie to tack the pleats in place.

Using the pattern maker as a guide, sew on the matching half of the snaps that were placed along the
front neckline of the shirt to the underside of each assembled Neck Tie.

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 Flip up the Sailor Collar. Use the snaps on the back of the Neck Ties to attach them to the front of the
shirt.

Feed the ends of the Neck Ties through the Tie Wrap and adjust them until satis ed.

Give your nished garment a nal pass with an iron or steamer. Enjoy your new shirt!
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