Apparel Production is the last process of textile production.
Garment production is the heart of textile production. Garment
production includes the production of finished apparel.
An apparel production system is an integration of material
handing production processes personnel and equipment that
directs work flow and generates products.
Each system of garment production requires an appropriate
management philosophy, material handling methods. Floor
layout for garments spreading and employee training.
Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their specific
garments production needs.
Firm may use only one production system a combination of
systems for one product line or different systems for different
product line in the same plant.
Objective
Examine the characteristics of different type of apparel
production system.
Compare and contrast the different production system.
Evaluate and critically compare the use of system in
different contexts.
Summarize the benefits of the different garment
production system.
The choice of best apparel production system will
depend on the product and policies of the company
and on the capacities of manpower, affirms
(V RAMESH BABU)
Most of the production systems employed in clothing
factories are derived from the following manual or
mechanical systems.
Each production system has its own specific
operational characteristics. This article discusses the
features, merits and demerits of different garment
production systems.
Individual system
This is essentially the traditional method of production
whereby one operator assembles the entire garment. In
men's bespoke wear, it is not uncommon for a tailor to
perform nearly every operation required to make the
garment, including machining, hand work and pressing.
With this production system the operator would be given a
bundle of cut work and would proceed to sew it according
to his or her own method of work. Of necessity, the labour
required by this system must be highly skilled and
versatile, a combination which is becoming exceedingly
rare and increasingly expensive.
This type of system is effective when a very large
variety of garments have to be produced in extremely
small quantities. A typical application would be in the
sewing room of a boutique, which produces its own
merchandise.
Whole garment system
There are two types of whole Garment Production Systems:
(1) complete whole garment and
(2) departmental whole garment.
In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire
garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the
garment.
The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes
the final operation.
This type of system is used in a few places, which are engaged in
custom-wholesale. They are normally high priced arid
exclusively made for a particular customer.
They are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10-
20 garments are made.
The departmental whole garment system is also used by
custom wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or
better dress manufacturers.
In the departmental whole garment system one individual
does all the work with the equipment allocated to a
department.
For example, one person does all the cutting work in
cutting department, second person does all the sewing
work in sewing department, and the third person does the
pressing and packing work.
The workers in this system may use more than one
equipment to complete their respective job.
•The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to one operator and so the amount as inventory is reduced.
Advantages
This system is more effective when a very large variety of
garments have to be produced in extremely small
quantities.
In Individual piece rate system the operators will do with
full involvement: To finish more pieces, to earn more
money.
Operator will be specialised in his own working area.
As the pay depends upon the complication of the
operation, the operator will try to finish the complicated
operation also without any difficulties.
The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut
garment to one operator and so the amount as inventory is
reduced.
Disadvantage
Highly skilled labourers are used, so the cost of labour
is high.
The operator is more concerned on the number of
pieces finished rather than the quality of work.
Productivity is less due to lack of specialisation.
For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not
effective in this system.
Section process system
This is a development of the making through system, with
the difference that the operators specialise in one major
component and sew it from beginning to end.
For example, an operator specialising in fronts would
assemble the front, set the pockets, etc and perform all the
operations required to finish that particular component.
The sewing room would have a number of sections, each
containing versatile operators capable of performing all the
operations required for a specific component.
The sections are built according to the average garment
produced, and include:
The sections are built according to the average garment
produced and included:
Pre-assembling (the preparation of small parts)
Front making
Back making assembly
Main (closing, setting collars and sleeves, etc)
Lining making
Setting linings
Finishing operations (buttonholes, blind-stitching, etc).
All in all, this is a very efficient system for producing a
variety of styles in reasonable quantities.
Advantages
As the labour of all levels, ie semi skilled, skilled,
trainee can be used in this system, the labour cost is
less compared with individual system.
Productivity is higher compared to individual system,
because of the use of special machine and all types of
labour.
This system is very efficient for producing a variety of
styles in reasonable quantities
Automation and specialisation can be done.
Disadvantages
All the levels of operators are involved in the work, so
the quality of garment should be strictly maintained.
Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled
operators are required to perform simple operation
within the section.
Group of people involved in each section and so we
require more WIP, which increases the inventory cost.
As this is not a bundling system, there are more
chances to mix up of lost, shade variation, sizes, so
quality and production will be affected.
Progressive bundle system
This system is exactly what its name implies, a system
whereby the garments are gradually assembled as they
move through successive sub-assembly and main assembly
operations in bundle form. The principles of this system
are:
The various sections are positioned according to main
operation sequence, with each section having a layout
according to the sequence of operations required to
produce a particular component. For example, the sleeve
section could contain the following sequence of operation:
run stitch collar , collar turn/iron, collar top stitch,
The amount of machinery for each operation would be
determined by the output required.
A work store is positioned at the start and end of every
section of these buffers is used to store work received
from a preceding operation, and to hold work
completed by that section.
Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not
directly dependent on the preceding section, but can
absorb slight variations in output via the stocks held
within the section.
The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat
cumbersome in operation and requiring large quantities of
work in progress, is probably one of the most stable
systems as regards output.
Unless there is serious absenteeism or prolonged special
machine breakdowns, most of the usual hold-ups can be
absorbed because of the amounts of work in progress.
Balancing and the changeover to new styles are also
somewhat simplified, due to the amount of work held in
reverse. When properly managed, the progressive bundle
system is versatile and efficient.
Advantages
Labours of all levels, ie, unskilled, skilled, semi skilled
labours are involved in this system where the
operations are broken into small simple operation.
Hence the cost of labour is very cheap.
Here the quantity of each component is checked
during the individual operation itself, so the quality is
good.
The components are moved in bundles from one
operation to next operation, so there is less chance for
confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size
variation, etc.
Specialisation and rhythm of operation increase
productivity.
As the WIP is high in this system, this is stable system
An effective production control system and quality
control system can be implemented.
Time study and method study techniques.
Operator training programme.
Use of material handling equipment, such as centre
table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc.
Disadvantage
Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is
solved by an efficient supervisor.
Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is
needed.
Proper planning requires for each batch and for each
style, which takes a lot of time.
Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor
quality, less production, etc.
Increase in WIP in each section increases the
inventory cost.
Planned and proper layout should be made to make
the system effective, ie, smooth flow of material.
Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this
system.
Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every
batch to balance the line effectively.s
Straight line system
As its name suggests, this system is based on a
synchronised flow of work through each stage of
producing a garment.
Time-synchronisation is the most important factor of
this system because the flow of work cannot be
synchronised if there are considerable variations in the
standard times allowed for all the operations
performed on the line.
For example, if one operation has a value of 1.5
minutes SAM, then all the other operations in the line
must have the same, or a very close, value.
The manipulation required to balance the standard
time for each operator can sometimes lead to illogical
combinations of whole or part operations which are
not always conducive to the overall efficiency of
individual operator.
The synchro system by its very nature is rigid and
particularly vulnerable to absenteeism and machine
breakdowns. At all times reserve operators and
machines must be available to fill the gaps.
In addition, this system requires a sufficient volume of
the same type of garment to keep the line in
continuous operation.
Unit production system
As a mechanical system this has been in use for many
years, but a major advance was made in 1983 when
computers were first used to plan, control and direct
the flow of work through the system.
Essential the features of this type of system are:
The unit of production is a single garment and not
bundles.
The garment components are automatically
transported from workstation to work station
according to a pre-determined sequence.
The work stations are so constructed that the
components are presented as close as possible to the
operator's left hand in order to reduce the amount of
movement required to grasp and position and
component to be sewn.
The operational principles are as follows:
All the components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a
workstation specially designed for this purpose
The carrier itself is divided into sections, with each section
having a quick-release clamp, which prevents the components
from falling out during movement through the system.
When a batch of garments has been loaded into carriers they are
fed past a mechanical or electronic device, which records the
number of the carrier and addresses it to its first destination.
Some of the more intelligent systems address the carriers with
all the destinations they will have to pass through to completion.
The loaded carriers are then fed onto the main
powered line, which continually circulates between
the rows of machines.
This main, or head, line is connected to each
workstation by junctions, which open automatically if
the work on a carrier is addressed to that particular
station.
The carrier is directed to the left side of the operator
and waits its turn along with the other carriers in the
station.
When the operator has completed work on one carrier,
a push button at the side of the sewing machine is
pressed and this actuates a mechanism, which
transports the carrier back to the main line.
As one carrier leaves the station, another is
automatically fed in to take its place.
When the carrier leaves the station it is recorded on
the data collection system, and then addressed to its
next destination.
Unit Production System requires substantial
investments, which are not always justified by
conventional payback calculations.
Apart from the measurable tangible benefits, UPS also
have many intangible benefits such as a more orderly
and controlled flow of work, and the ability via the
control computer of simulating the production
situation some time in advance.
These intangibles are difficult to measure, but in
themselves make a very positive contribution to the
overall viability of the unit.
All things considered, unit production systems have
major advantages over the other entire manual and the
mechanical systems used for the mass production of
clothing.
Most importantly, they provide a clothing factory with
the capability to respond quickly to any changes,
which might occur. In the fast moving fashion
business, this is essential.
Advantages
Bundle handling completely eliminated.
The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is
reduced to minimum.
Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the
operator to register the work.
The computerised systems automatically balance the
work between stations.
Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one
system.
Disadvantage
Unit production system requires high investments
The payback period of the investment takes long time.
Proper planning is required to be effective.
Quick response sewing system
This system was first developed in Japan to enable
quick responses to be made to market changes,
especially when orders for individual styles were in
small lots.
Each workstation is equipped with two or four
machines and the operator will take the garment
through the required operations, including pressing,
before it is transported to the next workstation.
Quick response system layout
Some of the basic machinery is duplicated in different
stations and if there is a bottleneck in one section the
overload is automatically transported to other stations
where operator capacity is available.
All the parts of one garment are loaded into a hanging
clamp attached to the trolley and in theory, there should
only be one garment at each workstation.
Work is transported by a computer controlled, overhead
trolley system and each station has an individual controller,
which provides the operator with information on the style
being worked on. This information comes from an
information card, which accompanies each trolley.
A less sophisticated version of QRS uses a wheeled
trolley, which contains the components for one
garment and is pushed along the floor from operator
to operator.
Another feature of QRS is that all the operators’ work
in a standing position so that they can move quickly
from one machine to another within their own
workstation. Machine heights are adjusted accordingly
and touch-pads and knee-pads controls are used
instead of conventional foot pedals.
Features
Supervision: Freed to work with the operators.
Labour: Of necessity the operators must be highly
skilled in the operation of all the different machines in
one workstation.
Quality: In-process inspection stations are built into
the line and the inspector is able to return faulty work
via the system to the operator concerned.
Throughput time: As there are so few garments on the
line throughput time is extremely short, which is the
objective of this system.
s
Layout: A typical unit would have eight work stations
arranges around the transport system.
There is no doubt that, this type of system is one of the
best answers to the garment production revolution,
which is becoming more apparent every day. Fashion
changes are becoming more frequent and as a
consequence order lots are proportionately smaller.
A production system, which enables changeovers to
be made in the minimum of time is ideally suited to
this new and dynamic situation.
Evaluation of production system
Any production system has four primary factors, which make up
the system. Processing Time + Transportation Time + Temporary
Storage Time + Inspection Time = Total Production Time.
Processing time is sum total of working time of all operations
involved in manufacture of a garment. Transportation time
involves the time taken to transport semi-finished or finished
garments from one department to another or from one
operation/machine to another.
Temporary storage time is time during which the
garment/bundle is idle as it waits for next operation or for
completion of certain parts. Inspection time is time taken for
inspecting semi-finished garments for any defects during
manufacturing or inspecting fully finished garments before
packing.
The main aim of any production system is to achieve
minimum possible total production time. This
automatically reduces in-process inventory and its
cost. The sub-assembly system reduces temporary
storage time to zero by combining temporary storage
time with transportation time.
Conclusion
The choice of best apparel production system will depend
on the product and policies of the company and on the
capacities of manpower. Where style changes are frequent
and lot sizes small, it may be advantageous to use skilled
labour who can make whole garment and use one of the
whole garment system.
As the lot size increases it is advisable to use section
production system. The sub-assembly system is superior to
the progressive bundle system as it takes less time. That is
the processing time for a garment in both system is same
but sub-assembly system has less waiting or temporary
storage time. However the space requirement, machinery
requirement and labour costs are high for sub-assembly
system.
In most cases the choice of a production system
depends on the cost of the inventory-in process.
Inventory-in process is the total number of garments
in the production line.
This consists of all garments being processed at sewing
machines, under inspection and in temporary storage
between operations. When material, labour, space and
interest costs are high, synchronised subassembly
system which yields the least possible in-process
inventory is more suitable.
One of the aims of any production system is to make
total production time as minimum as possible. This
automatically reduces inventory cost to a minimum.
Sub-assembly system provides many opportunities to
economise on temporary storage and transportation
space and time.
No definite answer can be given as to which is the best,
as it depends on garment style, specifications,
machinery and manpower and manufacturing policies.
