Using this book·,

At the beginning of this book (page 7) I explained about the relationship between the three-dimensional structure
of a garment and flat pattern pieces. A major objective when making garments for women is not only that they fit
properly but that they also look attractive. For this reason, garment design will never cease to exist and provide
endless enjoyment. I hope the pattern-making method I introduce here is of use to you in turning an image into a
silhouette or design detail, and that you learn from the ideas in this book and find new methods that work for you.
The pattern drafting and manipulation for the design of garments in this book are based on the Bunka-style sloper
(block) for adult women (Japanese 'M' size: bust 83cm, waist 64cm, centre back length 38cm), and a half-scale
dress form for the three-dimensional pattern manipulation. Ali the measurements on this dress form are half that
of a full-sized dress form, its surface area is scaled clown to a quarter and its volume to one-eighth. Using a half-
scale dress form helps to understand the overall balance and look of a garment. As my objective was to explain the
construction of a pattern in an easy-to-follow way, I have omitted pattern markings such as facing lines used for
actually constructing the garment and the amount of fabric required to make the garment.

Abbreviations used in Symbols used in pattern drafting

BP Line that acts as a gulde when drawing other lines.

AH b"c\io) Sector line , ..------, , ... ----- -' Line indicating that one line of a fixed length has been divided into
equal lengths. Shown by a thin broken line.
Arm Hole 1u¡ '"'l,,e_.1.,0
t o- cl.t \ Line indicating the finished outline of a pattern.
FAH Finishing line ------ Shown by a thlck solld line ora broken line.
Front Arm Hole Line indicating where the fabric is to be cut on the fold.

BAH
Cut on the fold ------ Shown by a thick broken line.

Back Arm Hole

L lndicates a right angle. Shown by a thin solid line.

Waist One-way pleats -9 F3- Draw two diagonal lines sloping downwards towards the hem. Shows
MH
Mid Hip N-pf that the hlgher line folds over the lower line.

H lndlcates that the cross-wise grain of the fabric runs in the direction of
Grain line the arrow. Shown by a thick solid line.
Hip
BL
Bust Line
WL
Waist Line
Bias direction
/ Indica tes the dlrectlon of the bias of the fabric.
Shown by a thlck solld llne.

Extension marking ~ lndlcates the part to be stretched.

-~~
Elbow Line
Close and lndicates that the paper pattern is to be folded along the dotted lines
CF and cut open along the salid line.
cut open marking
Centre Front
ce
Rr!!Jfl
Marking to cut
Centre Back fabric with paper lndicates that the pape, pattern pieces are to be arranged
pattern pieces contiguously when cutting out the fabric.
arranged
contiguously

11
PATTERN MAGIC