G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
GRSR.1096
SCARF
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY
01 02 03 04 05
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CONTENT
PART PAGE
MODEL DESCRIPTION 06
EASES, SEAM ALLOWANCES
AND MAIN MEASUREMENTS
OF THE PATTERN 06
MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMPTION 07
GARMENT PIECES, CUTTING OUT 09
SEWING ORDER 11
01. Preliminary steps 11
02. Sewing 13
SEWING TERMS 19
L E A R N _ S E W_ C R E AT E EN-GRASSER.COM
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
GRSR.PTRN 04
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
GRSR.PTRN 05
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
MODEL DESCRIPTION
An accessory – a double-sided scarf with insulation.
It consists of two parts connected by a long edge, in which a hole is left for threading the opposite end of the
scarf.
SEAM ALLOWANCES AND
BASIC MEASUREMENTS PATTERNS
GARMENT LENGTH MEASUREMENTS, CM
Size 1 2
Garment lenght 110,0 85,0
Garment width 24,0 20,0
FOR PERSONAL TASTE, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE ALTERATIONS
TO ADJUST THE LENGTH AND VOLUME OF THE PIECES BEFORE CUTTING.
GARMENT SEAM ALLOWANCES, MM
Stitching seam allowances 10
IF YOU ARE NOT HAPPY WITH OUR GIVEN SEAM ALLOWANCES,
PLEASE ADD YOUR OWN WHILE CUTTING THE PATTERN PIECES.
GRSR.PTRN 06
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMABLE
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
01. Multipurpose sewing machine;
02. An iron with or without steam;
03. Regular presser foot;
YOU CAN
04. Hinged cording foot;
PURCHASE
05. Wooden iron; THREADS AND
06. Ironing desk or console table; NEEDLES IN
OUR STORE
07. Hand needle for basting;
08. Machine needles №70-80 for the main fabric;
09. Machine needles Stretch or Super Stretch №70 for the lining;
10. Paper scissors;
11. Scissors for textile cutting.
FABRICS AND MATERIALS
MAIN FABRIC #1
We recommend using soft, medium density and thin raincoat and jacket fabrics for one side of this garment; rain-
coat fabrics with a membrane coating.
MAIN FABRIC #2
For the second side of the garment, we recommend using artificial fur with short or medium pile height; knitted
fabrics with pile, with slight or no stretching; knitted fabrics of small and medium density, soft, with little electrifi-
cation, made of natural, synthetic or mixed fibers, for example, fleece, knitted knitwear.
INSULATION
To insulate the garment, we recommend using synthetic insulation materials of a new generation with a protective
layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34 100 g/m2.
Ready-made quilted raincoat fabric can be used for sewing.
THREADS
01. For hand stitching we recommend using white cotton or polyester sew- NUMBERING
ing threads No40 or No45 - 1 spool. DEPENDS ON THE
PRODUCER
02. For machine stitching on the main fabric, use polyester threads No50 or
No120 - 1 spool for the sewing machine.
GRSR.PTRN 07
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
CONSUMABLE, М
OPTION 1. SCARF IS FROM THE MAIN MATERIAL
Size 1 2
Main fabric, wide 140 cm 0,65 0,55
Insulation material (100 g/m2; width 140 cm) 0,35 0,40
OPTION 2. SCARF IS FROM THE MAIN MATERIAL #1 AND MAIN MATERIAL #2
Size 1 2
Main fabric #1, wide 140 cm 0,35 0,30
Main fabric #2, wide 140 cm 0,35 0,30
Insulation material (100 g/m2; width 140 cm) 0,35 0,40
FABRIC CONSUMPTION IS GIVEN ACCURATE TAKING INTO ACCOUNT 1 HEIGHT
DIAPASONS. ALL PATTERN DETAILS SHOULD BE ARRANGED ON AN OPENED FABRIC
SHEET STRICTLY ON GRAIN IN ONE DIRECTION, EACH PATTERN PIECE MUST BE CUT OUT
ONLY ONCE.
FABRIC MAY SHRINK SO WE RECOMMEND TO MAKE A TEST TO FIND OUT FABRIC’S
SHRINKAGE RATIO, RESULT MUST BE ADDED TO THE FABRIC CONSUMPTION.
IF YOU PLAN TO CUT OUT DETAILS WITH EXTRA SEAM ALLOWANCES THEN ADD 30 CM
EXTRA.
GRSR.PTRN 08
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
GARMENT DETAILS AND CUTTING
NOTE:
— Please pay attention that the patterns indicate two directions of the warp thread. The warp thread can run
along the detail or across it. The warp direction should be in the same direction on the outer and inner sides
of both details of the garment;
— The warp direction of the raincoat fabrics does not affect the sewing process.
— The warp direction of the companion fabric can make small adjustments when sewing. It depends on the
fabric, its density and extensibility.
— If you are sewing the garment using only one fabric, then the warp thread must be in the same direction on
all details.
OPTION 1. SCARF IS FROM THE MAIN MATERIAL
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC,
WIDE 140 CM
LIST OF DETAILS: WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
01. Main detail - 2 details;
OF FABRIC, PLACE
02. Main detail - 2 details. THEM ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER, WITH
1 2 RIGHT SIDE FACING
1 2 DOWN
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE INSULATION FABRIC, WIDE 140 CM
LIST OF DETAILS: WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
1 LAYER OF INSULATION FABRIC:
OF FABRIC, PLACE
1 01. Main detail - 2 details.
1 THEM ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER, WITH
RIGHT SIDE FACING
DOWN
NOTE:
— You can change the density of the insulation material and the number of its layers. When sewing the garment,
we used one layer of insulation material on the outer side. You can also use two layers of insulation material,
put it on the outer and inner sides of the garment.
GRSR.PTRN 09
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
OPTION 2. SCARF IS FROM THE MAIN MATERIAL #1 AND MAIN MATERIAL #2
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC #1,
WIDE 140 CM
LIST OF DETAILS: WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
01. Main detail - 2 details.
OF FABRIC, PLACE
1 THEM ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER, WITH
1
RIGHT SIDE FACING
DOWN
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC #2,
WIDE 140 CM
LIST OF DETAILS: WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
02. Main detail - 2 details.
OF FABRIC, PLACE
2 THEM ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER, WITH
2 RIGHT SIDE FACING
DOWN
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE INSULATION FABRIC, WIDE 140 CM
LIST OF DETAILS: WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
1 LAYER OF INSULATION FABRIC:
1 OF FABRIC, PLACE
1 01. Main detail - 2 details.
THEM ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER, WITH
RIGHT SIDE FACING
DOWN
NOTE:
— You can change the density of the insulation material and the number of its layers. When sewing the garment,
we used one layer of insulation material on the outer side. You can also use two layers of insulation material,
put it on the outer and inner sides of the garment.
GRSR.PTRN 10
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
SEWING
SUCCESSION
Основной материал
Main fabric #1 1
Отверстие
Hole
ОсновнойMain fabric #2
материал 2
PRELIMINARY WORKS
CUTTING AND PROCESSING THE TEST SAMPLE
01. Before cutting the garment, we recommend making a test sample by using inexpensive fabrics with similar
properties.
02. Sanforize the fabric for the test sample. Iron it with the steam, let it cool and dry.
03. Cut the test sample details.
NOTE:
When sewing the garment, we used one layer of insulation material on the outer side. You can also use
two layers of insulation material, put it on the outer and inner sides of the garment.
04. You can skip stitching the edges along the perimeter for the test sample, but join the edges using the
straight stitching machine, keeping them open.
FITTING THE TEST SAMPLE
01. Put the test sample on the client.
02. Pay attention to the following:
— the garment volume, check the thickness of the insulation used;
— the width and the length of the garment;
— the hole length.
03. Correct the individual changes of the garment.
04. Transfer all the changes to the pattern details.
GRSR.PTRN 11
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
BEFORE CUTTING, WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU CHECK THE ENTIRE TECHNOLOGICAL SE-
QUENCE OF GARMENT SEWING. THE SEQUENCE CAN BE CHANGED.
MAKE NOTES ON THE DETAILS OF THE PATTERN OR IN THE SEWING DESCRIPTION, THIS
WILL HELP TO PRESERVE IMPORTANT INFORMATION.
PREPARING FABRICS FOR CUTTING AND CUTTING
01. Sanforize the creases of the main fabric.
02. Place the pattern details on the garment fabric in accordance with the layout scheme, do not break the
warp direction.
NOTE:
— Please pay attention that the patterns indicate two directions of the warp thread. The warp thread can
run along the detail or across it. The warp direction should be in the same direction on the outer and
inner sides of both details of the garment;
— The warp direction of the raincoat fabrics does not affect the sewing process.
— The warp direction of the companion fabric can make small adjustments when sewing. It depends on
the fabric, its density and extensibility.
— If you are sewing the garment using only one fabric, then the warp thread must be in the same direc-
tion on all details.
THE LAYOUT SCHEME IS GIVEN WITHOUT TAKING INTO ACCOUNT ADDITIONAL SEAM
ALLOWANCES.
If the material has a pattern, then it is necessary to take into account its direction when laying out details.
The presented layout scheme is suitable for plain materials and materials that are not required adjusting
the fabric patterns. The direction and size of the patterns increase the material consumption. Change the
layout scheme according to the individual characteristics of the material.
03. Notch the check marks on the cutting details not more than 0.3 cm.
PREPARING FABRICS, CHOOSING TOOLS,
AND SETTING UP THE EQUIPMENT
01. Test the materials used for:
— needle punctures;
— before using, check the chalk, soap or disappearing marker on a piece of the fabric. Choose a copy
accessory that is suitable for the fabric properties: the lines are easy to apply, do not erase and do not
disappear during the sewing process, they can be removed easily at the end of the work.
02. Choose the suitable mode of the heat treatment. Do not use the steam when processing the raincoat
fabric or the insulation material.
03. Customize the equipment.
— thread tension.
— machine foot presser.
— stitch length.
Customize the sewing machine for your fabric. Make the stitching line on a small piece of the fabric that
is left over after cutting. Stretch the fabric, the stitching line should not tighten or tear.
GRSR.PTRN 12
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
DURING THE SEWING PROCESS YOU MIGHT NEED THE PAPER PATTERNS. KEEP THEM
HANDY. IT IS CONVENIENT TO STORE PATTERNS ON A SPECIAL HOOK OR A TROUSER
HANGER.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
While processing the garment, remove the basting stitches after finishing the node.
Check the sequence of processing the nodes before sewing. The sequence of processing the garment can be
changed.
NOTE:
We used only one layer of the insulation material of the outer side of this garment.
01. Cut the insulation material with a rough
cutting.
02. Place details to the insulation material,
secure with the pins along the perimeter.
Secure the fabric with the machine stitch-
ing line with the seam width of 0.5 cm
from the edge. Increase the stitch length.
03. Cut the insulation material along the pe-
rimeter.
04. Place details together with the right
side inward. Even the center edges, se-
cure with the pins. Stitch the edges with
the seam width of 1 cm. The hole section
should not be stitched.
GRSR.PTRN 13
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
05. Place the seam allowance open, baste
them open with the hand stitches, se-
curing it with the insulation material.
Baste it open, keeping 2-3 cm until the
hole.
06. Stitch the details of the internal side of
the garment with the seam width of 1
cm.
07. Press the seam allowances open.
NOTE:
The garment details are prepared. It is necessary to compare the details with the pattern and with each
other. The details can have a slight difference of the length and width between each other. This differ-
ence depends on the materials used and the insulation width.
GRSR.PTRN 14
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
08. Place details together, even all edges. Check
the location of the holes on the details relative
to each other. Correct the length and width of
the details if necessary.
09. Place the outer and inner details together with
the right side inward. Even the edges, secure
them with the pins.
Stitch the garment along the perimeter with the
seam width of 1 cm.
Keep the technical hole of 8-10 cm along the
short edge of the hole side.
10. Trim the seam allowances at the corners.
11. Turn the garment right side out via the open
edges.
GRSR.PTRN 15
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
12. Straighten the edges, straighten the
seams, press them flat using the piece of
fabric for ironing and the dry ironer.
13. Bend the edges of the hole inside, secure
them with the pins.
14. Turn one side of the hole wrong side out.
Even the edges, secure with the pins.
Stitch the edges with the seam width of 1
cm, using the one-legged machine foot.
GRSR.PTRN 16
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
15. Straighten the seam. Check the seam
quality.
16. Stitch the second side of the hole in the
same way.
17. Stitch the technical hole using the hand
hidden stitches.
GRSR.PTRN 17
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
18. Even the center seams of the garment
on both sides, secure them with the pins.
Secure the seams with the hand hidden
stitches
The scarf is finished.
GRSR.PTRN 18
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
SEWING TERMS
STITCH Join together similar details. Place the pieces together with the right sides facing
each other. Even the edges. And join them by machine stitching according to the
given seam allowances measurements.
ATTACH OR SEW Attach or sew on details that differ in size, using a machine stitch.
(STITCH) ON
FINISHING EDGES Joining two details together, which are later turned inside out. The seam allowances
WITH FACING are remaining inside, whereas the seam runs along the edge of the joined pieces.
TO STITCH IN Means stitching garment details together around their edges.
TO STITCH ON Means fixation of a small detail to the right face of a bigger detail.
TO STITCH UP Means stitching to fix folded edges, pleats, darts, pin-tucks.
REINFORCING Stitch that reinforces the inner side of the garment. It is done on the right side. The
TOPSTITCH stitch is added strictly on top of the stitched line where the details are sewn togeth-
er, so it is not visible on the right side of the design.
BASTE Temporary join details, using hand baste stitching. Stitch length - 0,5 or 1 cm.
BASTE ON Temporary attach small detail to the main one, using baste stitching.
REINFORCING Temporary reinforces folded seam allowance with hand stitches.
BASTING STITCH
DIAGONAL BASTING Is a series of temporary parallel, horizontal stitches that produce diagonal floats of
thread on the top layer of fabric.
SLIP STITCHES Are hand stitches that are used for invisible securing details between each other
both from the wrong and right sides of the garment.
BASTE INTO THE Place the seam allowances into the opposite sides and fix the seam allowances with
OPPOSITE SIDES the insu-lation material by using diagonal stitches.
WET-HEAT PRO- Means ironing with steam garment itself or only it’s one certain area.
CESSING
PRESS FLAT Reduce seam or fold thickness by applying pressure with hot iron.
IRON OUT Means forwarding seam allowances to same garment’s part.
PRESS OPEN Use the tip of the iron to press the seam allowance open and press it well so each
seam allowance is on the two sides of the seam.
PRESS TO SHRINK Is to reduce excess fullness on the determined area using the steam iron to give it
shape.
STRETCHING Is used to make a detail’s edge longer and concave.
GRSR.PTRN 19
G R AS S E R AT E L I E R
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