Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 33, September 2008, pp. 288-303

Innovations in textile machine and instrument

T Matsuoa
SCI-TEX, Shiga, Japan

This paper reports an overview on the innovations in textile machine and instrument. The former is machinery system
for manufacturing textiles, while latter is a kind of machinery system for measuring quality of textile materials in processing
or products; both are however common in the points of both “textile material” and “machinery system”. In each of both
these sections, general scope on the trend of its technological progress has been described based on a systematical
classification and then some examples of significant innovative technologies are introduced.

Keywords: Fabric, Fibre, Textile measuring instrument, Textile machine, Yarn

1 Innovations in Textile Machine supplier. Then the user can produce textile products
1.1 Introduction of Textile Machines from the machine by a comparatively easier way. On
Clothing, food and house are the big three essential the other hand, the machine user has obliged to face
needs for human life. One of the most important with many competitors who bought similar kind of
necessary conditions is that the clothing should be machine.
supplied with reasonable price. In the history of In case a textile producer has succeeded in
textile industry, very significant progress in development of a certain special processing
production efficiency has been observed by several technology for a value-added product using his
innovative inventions in textile machines. We would original machine system, usually he must think of not
not enjoy life with plentiful clothing without such to publicize the system technology and to keep be
innovations. In 2003, the total production amount of guarded from any outer party. Then the machine will
textile machine in the world was about 18 billion US become non-commercial. Most of highly profitable
dollar, though it was less than 1% of those of textile / specialty products have been made based on such an
clothing industry. original processing system. But if the market of the
In addition, the progress of textile machine has products is expected to be so voluminous that such
contributed to the progress of machines in other fields kind of machine system can be commercialized, some
of industries. One of its typical examples was put of machine manufactures must naturally think to sell
forward by Toyota Motor Co. The many basic the system by overcoming the restrictive barriers.
technologies of automatic weaving machine This way, some of non-commercial machine can
developed by Mr. Sakichi Toyoda were connected to become commercial. One of its typical examples is
the birth of the automobile manufacturing company. conventional melt spinning system for fibre
Textile machine can be divided into the two production. Hence, non-commercial textile machine is
categories, namely commercial or non-commercial. usually limited to only highly advanced technologies
The former is commercially manufactured by for highly specialty products. In this paper, the main
machinery maker. The customer can usually use it theme is focused on recent technological progressive
without any patent restriction. In this case, the total trends and innovations in commercial machines.
processing technology comprises machine system
technology belonging to its machine manufacture and Textile machines can be classified by production
operation technology which further belongs to objects into the following 5 categories; namely
machine user. In the competitive situation among machines related to (i) fibre manufacturing, (ii) spun
machine manufacturers, machine user can usually yarn manufacturing, (iii) fabric manufacturiing, iv)
obtain its common operation know-how from its dyeing and finishing, and (v) recycling. Concerning
____________________ fabric manufacturing, it can be further divided into
a
E-mail: tamatsuo@nifty.com weaving, knitting, and nonwoven making. In the first
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 289

part of this paper, textile machines are described In the last 30 years, false twisting machine has
according to such a classification. much progressed in its high productivity, high quality
Higher production efficiency, shorter processing products, and versatility for specialty yarn production.
step, higher quality of product, higher energy saving, High temperature and short time heating zone with a
easier operation adaptability for user and more non-contact method, rapid cooling mechanism after
flexibility for producing multiple products are the heating, and winder with individual driving
commonly directive targets in technological progress mechanism for each position are major contributing
of these machines, even though their priority is factors to increase the operation speed up to 1200
decided, depending on a case by case base. m/min. Monitoring and control mechanism at false
twisting zone, high temperature heating zone, and
1.2 Machines for Fibre Manufacturing
1.2.1 General Scope of Fibre Manufacturing
improvement in false twisting spindle are major
Representative system for fibre manufacturing is contributing factors to increase the operation speed up
melt spinning system. There are some other types of to 1200 m/min. Monitoring and control mechanism at
spinning system such as wet spinning and dry false twisting zone, high temperature heating zone,
spinning, but most of them are related to non- and improvement in false twisting spindle are
commercial machine system. effective to realize high level of quality control.
Various major melt spinning systems include the Individual driving mechanism for each position has
systems for making multi-filament, staple fibre, and given much freedom to match specialty yarn
bulked continuous carpet yarn. The system to make production.
straight multi-filament is usually one step process
1.3 Machines for Spun Yarn Manufacturing
which is consisted of extruding, quenching, drawing 1.3.1 General Scope of Spun Yarn Manufacturing
and winding as main parts. In the case of partially Figure 1 shows a classification for major short
oriented yarn which is usually converted to textured staple fibre spinning systems. Usually, in staple fibre
yarn by false twisting, drawing is usually saved in the spinning system, blocks of staple fibre are broken and
above-mentioned process. opened into carded web. Then it is converted to sliver
Representative system for texturing multi-filament by the action of drawing and combing. The sliver is
is false twisting machine whose main functions are converted to spun yarn on the spinning frame. In this
simultaneous drawing and false twisting. It is usually case, roving process is involved for ring spinning
composed of heating zone, cooling zone, drawing system. Further rewinding process is necessary for
mechanism and false twisting mechanism. ring spinning system, in which the yarn length is
1.2.2 Innovative Progress for Fibre Manufacturing enlarged for the next fabrication process.
Considering the technologies for high productivity Spinning method can be classified into real
in melt spinning of multi-filament, it has been found twisting and open end twisting. Ring spinning is
that in the early stage of multi-filament production, representative of the former method and is traditional.
drawn filament was produced by the following two In ring spinning, twist is substantially inserted into a
step methods. In the first step, un-drawn yarn is spun yarn by using a circulating traveler. The twisted yarn
by take-up winder with 2-4 ends, whose speed is is wound on to the spindle package whose rotational
about 1000m/min. In the second step, it is drawn by speed is greater than that of the traveler2. In this
draw-twisting machine. In the last 30 years, its method, twisting and winding of yarn are carried out
production efficiency has innovatively increased by
the following ways1:
(i) The two steps have been converted into one step,
in which drawing part is incorporated into
spinning machine or into false twisting machine.
(ii) The speed of winder has increased from 3000
m/min to 6500 m/min.
(iii) The number of ends has much increased up to
such as 24, which also causes a decrease in
electric power consumption / end. Fig. 1—Classification of major short staple spinning methods
290 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

at the same time by such a smart mechanism. But the

size and the rotational speed of the spindle package
are mechanically limited.
In open end spinning, twisting action and winding
action are separately carried out by making open end in
the course of yarn formation. In this, its available
ranges in rotation speed for twisting and in the take-up
speed of winding can be much enhanced. Several kinds
of open-end spinning system have been developed. But
rotor spinning and air-jet spinning are commercially
well successful. As described later, as far as the
production efficiency is concerned, they have far more
great advantages over ring spinning. In that sense, they
are truly innovative in spinning process.
1.3.2 New Splicing Technology
Yarn splicing is very important in spun yarn
manufacturing. Traditionally, mechanical knotting has
been utilized for this purpose. But the knot thus
formed causes bad effect for successive fabrication
process. Murata Machinery Co. presented air splicing
machine at ITMA of 1979. In the machine, the two
yarns to be connected are pneumatically untwisted.
After overlapping, they are pneumatically twist-
entangled with each other. The yarn thus connected
has no knot as shown in the middle of Figure 2b. Air
splicing is widely utilized in the process of rewinding
and high speed yarn spinning. Recently, water
splicing machine has developed in which twist
entanglement is conducted by air stream containing Fig. 2—Connection parts by three kinds of splicing methods3 [(a)
water mist. The spliced part obtained by water slicing mechanical knotter, (b) air splicer, and (c) water splicer]
is more compacted and is smoother than that by air
splicing as shown in the bottom of Fig. 2c (ref. 3). the fabric. Figure 3 illustrates the principle of compact
spinning.6 In compact spinning, drafting roll has a
1.3.3 Progress in Technologies of Ring Spinning perforated band zone as shown in Fig. 4. By the
Double apron drafting has much contributed to pneumatic suction, the width of drafted sliver is
obtain super high drafting such as 100 (ref.4). reduced to bcom and then the size of the spinning
Electrically controlled draft system has enabled easy triangle is decreased, which effectively prevents to
flexible production of fancy yarn.5 Several approaches grow the hair of the yarn.
with different ring design, such as orbit ring, ceramic
ring and rotating ring, for reducing the limitation 1.3.4 MVS Spinning
imposed by traditional rings, and travelers have been As shown in Fig.1, MVS belongs to air-jet
proposed.4 The tracking of spindles from the ring spinning. Air-jet spinning was originated from
frame is very useful for process quality control, fasciated yarn proposed by DuPont Co.. The fasciated
because it enables to identify those spindles yarn was commercialized as MJS using two serial air-
responsible for producing defective yarn on the ring jet nozzles by Murata Machinery Co. in 1980. By this
frame.4 method, medium to fine thickness yarns can be
Yarn produced by compact spinning has much less produced with a high speed as 300m/min. This
hairiness and higher strength compared to conventional method was successful in the yarn production of
ring-spun yarn, which causes better process-ability in 100% polyester and blended polyester yarns. But it is
sequential process. The improvement in hairiness not feasible to produce cotton yarn by the system. The
causes clean appearance and higher pill resistance of handle of its fabric gives rather hard feeling. In this
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 291

Fig. 3—Principle of compact spinning in comparison with conventional ring spinning6 [(a) conventional, and (b) compact]

Fig. 4—Compacting elements using perforated drafting roll6

situation, MVS spinning machine was presented in

1997 by Murata Machinery Co. Fig. 5—Principle of yarn formation in MVS spinning7
Figure 5 illustrates the yarn formation by MVS
method. The front part of fibres in the sliver is contrary, MVS is applicable to the range from 8.7 tex
mechanically pulled into the center hole of the spindle. to 45 tex. MVS can be extended to worsted yarn
The backside of the fibres remains at the outside of the spinning and also core yarn spinning.10
spindle and these fibres are sequentially wounded on MVS yarn has less hairiness than conventional
the forming yarn by circulating vortex air.7 Hence, the ring-spun yarn and also rotor yarn. The tenacity of
yarn is composed of straight parallel fibres in its core MVS yarn is lower than that of ring yarn, but higher
part and really twisted fibres in its sheath part.8 The than that of rotor yarn. The main features of MVS
fibres shorter than 12mm are mostly removed by the yarn fabrics are: clear appearance with less fuzz,
vortex air in the process.7 higher pilling resistance, higher water transfer rate
Sliver obtained by drawing machine is supplied to and no torque deformation in knitted fabrics.7
MVS machine. The sliver drafted by rolls and aprons is 1.4 Machines for Woven Fabric Manufacturing
transferred to spinning zone as shown in Fig. 5. Passing 1.4.1 General Scope of Woven Fabric Manufacturing
on the yarn cleaning device by which yarn defects are Process for making woven fabrics is consisted of
removed, the yarn is wound at a high speed of 450 preparatory process for weaving and weaving. In
m/min, which is higher than the speed of 250 m/min in preparatory process, there are warping / beaming,
rotor spinning. In MVS system, the yarn can be wound (sizing), looming. (dyeing for yarn dyed cloth) and
onto conical package by using a special yarn (twisting). Among them, warping / beaming and
accumulation device.9 looming cannot be eliminated. Weft preparation is
Rotor spinning is feasible to the production of yarn carried out into such form as conical cheese or weft
in the thickness range from 15 tex to 240 tex. On the bobbin, if necessary. Several kinds of machine for
292 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

looming have been developed to reduce its labour

involved.
Weaving machines are classified as shuttle loom,
shuttle-less loom and some special kinds of loom such
as circular loom, tri-axial loom and three
dimensionally axial loom. Air-jet loom and rapier
loom belonging to shuttle-less loom category are
representative of major advanced looms. Significant
technological progress in shuttle-less loom is oriented
to higher productivity, lower energy consumption,
easier access to operation, and higher versatility in its
products. It has been carried out by making an
Fig. 6—Maximum picking rate of various looms at exhibition by
effective use of mechatronics under severe the year11
competitive situation. Figure 6 shows the trend of
progress in productivity of major shuttle-less looms.11 located between two rows of shed-holding elements
Air-jet loom is advantageous over rapier loom in and replace the function of conventional weaving
terms of productivity. But as a whole, the latter is reeds. All motions are programmable to ensure
more excellent in versatility of fabrication than air-jet adaptation to weaving requirements through
loom. electrically controlled drive.12
The features of the loom are about three folded
1.4.2 Multi-phase Loom productivity with simple standard fabrics, lower
The research based on the concept of multi-phase specific energy consumption, and much lower noise
weft insertion was started in 1955. Multi-shed level with lower process cost.
formation was realized by the two basic techniques,
namely wave-shed and multi-linear. At ITMA’ 83,
1.4.3 Weave Navigation System
some manufacturers demonstrated wave-shed Tudakoma Corp. has developed an operation
technique. But technological obstacles prevented the software system named as “Weave Navigation
concept to achieve market success. There were System”, by which the user can easily find the right
inherent shortcomings, such as the difficulty of way for operating the loom manufactured by the
repairing mis-picks, difference in weft tensions as a company under several weaving conditions. In the
consequence of several weft-yarn carriers being system, know-how data accumulated in the company
activated at the same time and difficulty to achieve for operating the loom are incorporated. It is
the required beat-up necessary to obtain uniform composed of the following four kinds of functional
insertion across the entire weave length.12 sub-systems, namely Tune Navi, Trace Navi, Self-
Sulzer demonstrated M8300 multi-phase loom at Navi, and Auto Cruse. In the system, the loom itself
ITMA’ 99, which is designed exclusively to be a has the main function of each sub-system and is
single-warp machine and earmarked for mass- connected with PC in the office by LAN. By inputting
production of standard fabrics without multi-colour the data of the woven fabric to be produced into Tune
mechanism. It has 4 sheds located in series across the Navi, the user can get the information on its optimal
circumference of a weaving central rotor. The working conditions for weft insertion and warp
individual shed is form-fit. Spreading the warp tension, and at the same time, the loom can
threads on the shed-holding element is achieved with automatically select the new working conditions. The
the aid of warp positioners similar to needle bars of sub-system can also indicate the optimum level of air
knitting machines. Insertion is performed with low- pressure, the optimum adjustment data on the
pressure blast of air through a weft channel formed by mechanical condition, such as the position of tension
the shed-holding elements. Additional relay nozzles roll, and data to be acted for preventing stop mark on
are placed within the shed-holding elements. Insertion the fabric. Self-Navi can deliver the information on
rate is 1200m/min and then totally 4800m/min. The effective maintenance of the loom. Auto Cruise has
combs positioned on the circumference of the the function to automatically drive the loom for stable
weaving rotor accomplish weft beat-up. They are working and for minimizing fabric defect.13
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 293

1.4.4 Flexible Preparatory System for Weaving Yarn-dyed the program. After connecting the yarn with the
Figured Cloth forward yarn, the length of yarn selected is
Yarn-dyed figured woven fabrics are usually mechanically measured and then intermittently wound
produced based on many lots, with small size. In their on a package for warp yarn. Figure 7C shows the
production, it has been quite usual that the frequent device for measuring yarn length.14
change in lots causes much loss of time and material Packages thus obtained are transferred to the
with intensive labour work. Katayama Trading Co. process of sectional warping or beam warping. Using
and Murata Machinery Co. have developed a flexible this system, the fabrics composed of warp yarn
preparatory system for weaving yarn-dyed figured sequentially having several kinds of colours can be
cloth.14 Its main technological element is a new smoothly produced with very low cost and time
arranging winder as illustrated in Fig. 7. It works involvement.
according to the program using PC. In the case of
cloth having three colour vertical stripes like the 1.4.5 Automatic Fabric Inspection
fabric shown in Fig.7A, a package of warp yarn which Fabric defects are a cause of major concern for any
sequentially contain blue part, red part and pink part quality conscious textile mill. These may be due to
with precisely controlled length for each colour is inherent defects in the yarn, bad preparation of warp
made by the winder in the order of blue dyed yarn, and weft, improper machine condition, bad working
red dyed yarn and pink dyed yarn as illustrate in Fig. practices, improper ambient and so on. In fact, it is
7B. The winder selects a coloured yarn according to impossible to produce 100% defect-free fabric.
However, defect level can be minimized by taking
appropriate measures. Till today, most of the mills are
using visual examination of fabrics in which
the fabric is inspected on the illuminated inspection
table. Although, eye has approximately
10000*10000(=100million) sensor-elements with a
processing capability of human brain equivalent to
50-100 million PC’s, 25% faults in the fabric go
undetected during visual examination. Because of low
production rate and variation in identification of faults
due to subjective judgment of operator, this method
fails to produce standardized fault-free fabric. In order
to overcome this problem, the state-of-the-art
technology for automatic fabric inspection and
marking the defect position has been developed,
which eliminates the human element involved,
reducing the variance in the results to a minimum
level. Although it is well established that the complex
function of the eye cannot be simulated by any means
but for the purpose of inspection of fabrics, a good
and appropriate image acquisition system is being
used for automatic inspection. Decision making is
carried out with the help of pattern recognition
algorithms. Fourier transform has been the
fundamental basis for image processing. Software has
been developed to store all the results of inspection
which can further be used for analysis and giving
feedback to back process in very short time. This
would help in taking timely corrective action at
various stages of manufacturing at a later stage where
from the defect or faults are originated. There is a
Fig. 7—Explanatory diagram for arranging winder14 100% fabric inspection and least variation in the
294 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

results of inspection. One vital aspect of automatic WholeGarmentⓇ knitwear is produced in one entire
gray fabric inspection is getting information back to
piece, three-dimensionally, directly on the knitting
the weaving department when off quality goods are
machine. Hence, it requires no post production process.
turning up. This is especially true when running
It can also save cut-loss incurred by cut & sew system.
defects are detected. This helps in follow up action for
Shimaseiki Co. presented the machine at ITMA’
taking necessary corrective measures.15
1995, which uses digital stitch control mechanism,
1.5 Machines for Knitting four-bed technology and slide needles in stead of latch
1.5.1 General Scope of Knitting Machines needles. Four-bed technology ensures to realize higher
Knitted fabric can be classified into two categories, stitch density. Slide needle which was a newly
namely weft knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric. In designed needle for the machine gave rise to higher
the former, knitted loops made by each weft thread productivity by its smaller moving distance, and to
are formed substantially across the width of the fabric. natural loop configuration by its symmetrical loop
Warp knitted fabric is composed of knitted loops in formation (Fig. 8). In addition, the needle realized 12
which warp threads forming the loops travel in warp- ways loop forming technique contrasting with 6 ways
wise direction down the length of fabric. Weft knitted technique of latch needle, by which so-called gauge-
fabrics can be conventionally divided into flat knitted less knitting can be performed.
fabric which is made by a machine having straight In the knitwear, bulky and annoying stitch at the
needle bed, and circular knitted fabric which is made shoulders, side and underarms are eliminated. Seams
by a machine having the needle set in one or more no longer interfere with the natural elasticity of knits.
circular beds. The knit wear can be made to three-dimensionally fit
Flat knitting machine is feasible to make fashioned the body and to form good silhouette by computer
parts to be linked and non-sewn seamless knitted aided designing. The company has also developed
CAD system by which designer can conduct a visual
fabrics whose typical example is WholeGarmentⓇ.
design in terms of colour / pattern and silhouette. Then
Circular knitting machine is designed to produce product planner can decide the knit wear to be
garment-length fabrics of seamless inner wear and produced by selecting / confirming the test samples
high gauge fabrics for cut-sewing process. In warp made through the CAD system. Then the result can be
knitting machine, threads are delivered from warper’s easily converted to production. Therefore the CAD
beam and therefore this process is less flexibe. But it system in the combination with the machine can be
can produce fabric having more stable structure with practically a useful tool for mass customerization.17-19
higher productivity and can also be applicable to
produce axially structured fabrics. Its fabric is mainly
used for household, technical textiles and composite
reinforcement.
The introduction of stitching motion and related
mechanisms driven by electronic system in these
knitting machines has given much rise in their
freedom to create versatile fabric structures, and in
their productivity. For example, garment-length
fabrics have become applicable to seamless women’s
innerwear, which can be produced by making an
active use of the freedom in changing the stitch
density and the number of stitch during knitting
operation.16

1.5.2 WholeGarmentⓇ
Typically, a knitted garment consists of separate
parts (the front and back body panels, and sleeves)
which are sewn together afterward. In contrast, Fig. 8—Comparison between latch needle and slide needle19 [(a)
configuration and motion of needles, and (b) effect of slide needle
for loop formation]
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 295

Fig. 10—Classification of production methods for nonwovens by

web forming and bonding

been proposed, namely Nanoval for producing

microfibre web and electro-spinning for processing
nano-sized fibre web.
Carding is most traditional among web forming
Fig. 9—Axial structured warp knitted fabrics [(a) warp knitted and is usually disadvantageous in regard to production
fabric for uni-axial reinforcement20, and (b) multi-axially layered
cost over spun-laying. But much technological
sheet stitched by warp knitting mechanism (Karl Mayer pamphlet
at OTEMAS, 2001)] improvement in productivity and quality, with respect
to its inherent production flexibility have made
1.5.3 Machines for Axially Structured Warp Knitted Fabrics carding still competitive to spun-laying.21 Some
Figure 9 (A) shows warp knitted fabric of uni-axial technologies including web-folding22 have been
structure. Figure 9 (B) shows multi-axially layered developed to obtain the nonwovens in which fibres
sheet stitched by warp knitting mechanism, in which are highly oriented in the thickness direction.
one layer is composed of web. From the view point of Bonding of spunlacing which entangles web by
warp knitting mechanism, they are manufactured by water-jet was commercialized in 1973 by DuPont. But
not so highly sophisticated technologies. But such since 1990, it has been much enlarged by the start of
axially structured warp knitted fabrics are now its commercial machine for bonding such types of
expanding as reinforcing materials for geotextiles and web as carding, wet forming, spun-laying and air-
composites. Especially, the multi-axially layered sheet laying. Recently, bonding using super-heated steam-
is used for the reinforcement of turbine in wind power jet has been developed. The bonding is accomplished
plant and hull in small ship. by a combination of fibre entanglement and thermal
1.6 Machines for Nonwoven Manufacturing
bonding. Subsequent drying is not usually required.
1.6.1 General Scope of Nonwoven Manufacturing Fabrics having more bulkiness can be obtained by this
Usually the nonwovens are produced by web bonding.
forming process and bonding process in which web is There have been many technological progresses in
integrated into a fabric. Figure 10 shows a total view needle punching. In its advanced turn, high speed
of major production methods in terms of web forming over 100m/min is possible with much lower energy
and bonding. consumption than spunlacing.21 Improvement in
The production method of microfibre web can be surface appearance is another example of the progress
described by melt-blowing, flash spinning and spun- by elliptical needle path. Using specific needles,
laying of splittable or island-sea bi-component fibre. products having patterned rib and velour have been
But recently two kinds of new spinning methods have developed for automotive use.23 Machine for making
296 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

composite nonwoven having space structure which shown in Fig. 12 (A). In the case that collection
can be filled by functional particles has also been screen is nonwoven backed by an electrode, a
commercialized.24 nonwoven covered by a thin layer of nanofibre web
By the technological progress in the applicability can be fabricated.
of spunlacing to high line speed operation, the Intensive researches on electro-spinning have been
combination of spunlacing and spunlaying has carried out across the globe. As far as author knows,
become useful. Its product has high softness, some kinds of electro-spinning apparatus of
absorbency and permeability with lower production laboratory scale have been commercialized. But it is
cost. By applying splittable bi-component fibre to this
combined system, microfibre nonwoven like EvolonⓇ
has been economically produced, because the splitting
can be performed by the mechanical action of the aqua-
jet in the spunlacing. The production system of
combined nonwovens in which melt-blown web (M) is
reinforced by spun-laid web (S) in-line have been
commercialized. There have been several kinds of
combinations such as SMS and SSMMS.
It must be noted that some vertical integrations in
nonwoven machinery have significantly been carried
out, by which the buyer can purchase complete
manufacturing line with systematic operation know- Fig. 11—Splitting mechanism of Nanoval process25
how.21
1.6.2 Nanoval Technology
This technology has been recently developed by
Nanoval Gmbh & Co. of Germany. In the process, each
monofilament melt fluid extruded from spinneret is
drawn by the friction of air flow which is steadily
accelerated, as schematically shown in Fig. 11. As soon
as the internal pressure in the monofilament melt
exceeds the external gas pressure, it is caused to burst
open spontaneously. It can split into a multitude of very
fine filaments, whose diameter is 2-10 m. The number
of split filaments from one monofilament is more than
20 up to several hundred. With the spinneret nozzles
arranged in rows, these continuous micro filaments
thus formed from many monofilaments are deposited
as web on a conveyer belt. There is no specific
limitation in the selection of the polymers to which this
method is applied. The most significant point of its
advantage over melt-blown method is much lower
specific energy consumption.25 The author understands
that the machine of this technology has not yet fully
commercialized, but it can be available by certain
license.
1.6.3 Electro-spinning Technology
Electro-spinning is one of the most appropriate Fig. 12—Electro-spinning processes [(A) conventional electro-
methods to produce nano fibre web in which strong spinning process in which Taylor stream is formed at one
electro static field is applied between polymer dope capillary edge26, and (B) Taylor streams formed from thin layer of
capillary and collection screen as schematically polymer solution on a rotating roll in Nanospider process
(pamphlet of Elmarco at ANEX, 2006)]
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 297

expected that there is a great difficulty in scaling-up to the fabric is one of very useful way.29
such laboratory scale to commercial production, Traditionally, several kinds of screen printing have
because huge number of spinnerets are needed to keep been used. CAD systems have been applied to make
some level of productivity in the process. the screen images. But ink-jet printing is going to give
Recently, a promising process for the scale-up has rise of an innovation to printing technologies.
been proposed by a Czechoslovakian group, which is Several kinds of finishing machines have been used
named as NanospiderⓇ process (pamphlet of Elmarco according to the purpose of finishing. Concerning
at ANEX, 2006). In this process, many fibre streams heat-setting machine, the main efforts have been
are formed from thin layer of polymer solution on a made for energy saving by effective heat recycling,
rotating roll by the electro-static field onto upper and by effective use of air / steam with suitable
collection screen, as shown in Fig. 12(B). Elmarco mechanical action to the fabric, which is also one of
Co. has developed a pilot scale Nanospider machine. the most important factors for obtaining desirable
It is thought that it can be available by license base for fabric hand. There are also brushing machines to
the future potential users. make the suede-like surface of the fabric.27,28
It is expected that the treatments using super
1.7 Machine for Dyeing and Finishing critical fluid are very useful for dyeing such fibres as
1.7.1 General Scope of Dyeing and Finishing polypropylene and p-aramid, and for introducing
The industrial sector of dyeing and finishing has functional materials such as metal complex into
traditionally consumed very larger amount of energy fibres. But it is still at developmental stage.
and water among the other sectors in textile industry. 1.7.2 Ink-jet Textile Printing
Hence, energy and water savings are big issues for This type of machines has been developed to fit in
this sector as a whole. The processes in the sector can dyeing fabrics based on ink-jet printers for sheets like
be conveniently classified as preparatory process for paper and film. But the inks must be changed in textile
dyeing, dyeing, and finishing. Dyeing can be printing and the necessary amount per unit area for
categorized as high pressure solid dyeing, continuous textile use is increased by several times. A specific
solid dyeing and printing. system for conveying device such as belt to which
In the preparatory process, continuous treatment fabrics are fixed is also necessary for the machines.29
machine using ozone has been developed.27 Washing The inks are jetted onto the fabric through a large
machines which utilize devices for effective water number of nozzles such as 360 by a piezo-electricity.
penetration into fabrics and devices of mangle and The ink must have lower viscosity with higher surface
vacuuming for effective removal of water from the tension than that of the ink used in screen printing.29 A
fabrics have been developed.28 representative advanced printing machines exhibited at
Concerning high pressure solid dyeing, there is a ITMA’ 2007 can be used for dyeing with 16 colours
clear different direction in the form of machine using and 600dpi for 3200mm width by the speed of 80 m2/h.
liquid flow between large volume production and Reactive dyeing, acid dyeing, disperse dyeing and
small volume versatile production. Machines using a pigment dyeing have become applicable to the
large drum vessel have been developed for large printing.30 In March 2008, a machine whose operation
volume production. Several devices for water saving speed is 400m2/h at 600dpi with 8 colours was
in tubular type machines have been developed for presented by a Japanese company group.31
small volume production. On the other hand, dyeing In the past, their printing efficiency was too small to
machines using moist air flow have been developed apply them to commercial production. Hence, their use
for higher water and higher energy savings than liquid was limited mainly for very small amount of fabric
flow type machines.28.29 dyeing, such as dyeing image sample. But
Concerning continuous solid dyeing, smart devices improvement in their production efficiency has been
such as a special precision nip roll and compact dye making ink-jet printing the leading techniques in the
bath system for padding have been developed.28 The field of printing.30 Images generated by CAD can be
key point for energy saving in the dryer of this dyeing most precisely and directly transferred to images
process is to effectively decrease water pick-up of the printed on the fabric. Filing of image data and their
fabric at washing process. Jetting steam and / or mist indexation are very easy. Therefore, ink-jet printing has
much more feasibility to quick response than
298 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

function of the tuft forming machine (ii) is opening

fibrous block produced by the machine (i). The
machine (iii) is useful for uniform blending the tuft
produced by the machine (ii) with the tuft of
conventional fibre. Mat forming machine has been
developed to be applied to the tuft composed of very
short fibre, in which the tuft and some ratio of
thermo-adhesive fibre are air-laid on a net conveyer.
The system can be applicable to fibre skeleton mat
obtained from FRP by solving away its matrix resin.
Card web made of bamboo fibre having natural anti-
bacteria has been produced utilizing the system from
bamboo broken by pressured steam bursting.
Fig. 13—Main part of aero-flow piece dyeing machine (THEN-
AIRFLOW)32 2 Innovations in Textile Measuring Instrument
2.1 Introduction of Fibre and Textile Evaluation Technologies
conventional printing. in Terms of Instrument
2.1.1 Fibre and Textile Evaluation
1.7.3 Aero-flow Piece Dyeing Machines
In this type of machines, the fabric transport takes Evaluation of fibre and textile quality is
place by means of a separate gas circuit through indispensable in modern textile industry. In the case of
humid air or an air-steam mixture without using any fibres and intermediate textile materials, the evaluation
liquid. Dyestuffs, chemicals and auxiliaries are is carried out for qualifying their feasibility to the
dissolved in the processing liquor and injected directly following process, and for characterizing material
into an air stream. In this way, the liquor is atomized properties in relation to their final products.
and evenly distributed on the surface of the fabric. In the evaluation of inner structures of fibre
Then an optimal penetration of the liquor is carried out materials, several kinds of physical and chemical
within the textile material. The liquor ratio is not analytical instruments can be mostly utilized in
dependent on the loading quantities.32 common for general materials. But in the other kinds of
Figure13 illustrates the main part of THEN- fibre / textile evaluation, the instrumentation is
AIRFLOW which is representative of this kind of generally influenced by their fibrous and / or textile
machine. After dyeing, rinsing is carried out by forms to a greater or lesser extent.
spraying fresh water at the section 3. The fabric slides When we totally consider fibre and textile
on the rods 6 covered by PTFE and a small amount of evaluations, there is a specific feature of the following.
excessive liquor and water falls down to the bottom of Quality in regard to aesthetic, physiological, and
the vessel.32 It is said that this system can save the psychological feelings often becomes a key point for
consumptions of 50% water, 40% chemicals, 40% evaluating textile products. Therefore, it is desirable
energy, and 40% operation time.28 that some instrumentations related to such feelings are
available at least in the evaluation of textile products
1.8 Machines for Recycling Textile Wastes and for Utilizing specialized by such properties.
New Fibrous Resources There are a large number of objective items in
Ikegami Machinery Co. has developed a machinery fibre/textile evaluation. In order to totally and
system for recycling textile wastes and for utilizing systematically understand the evaluation technologies,
new fibrous resources.33 The main components of the it must be reasonable that the items are classified based
system are: a breaking machine (i), a tuft forming on their structures and properties, and on their product
machine (ii), a tuft blending machine (iii), and a card or types.
a mat forming machine (iv). All the machines except
card have been specially developed for the system by 2.1.2. Classifications of Evaluation Items
the company. The machine (i) can effectively break Table 1 shows the classification of structural
several kinds of fibrous materials such as selvedge evaluation items for ordinary fibre materials and textile
waste, which is equipped with rotating blades specially products. Most of these items related to item numbers 1
designed in their shape and in their material. The and 2.1 (Table 1) and some other items in the table can
be instrumentally analyzed and /or observed. Table 2
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 299

shows the classification of properties evaluation items device, electronic device, optical device, sensing
for ordinary fibre materials, textiles and textile device and data analysis using computer software into
products. Most of these items can be instrumentally instruments, the automation and precision analyses in
measured. But some of them are sensually evaluated material measurement have been much enhanced.
using standard grade samples. Classification of Applications of nano technologies to fibrous materials
materials and products evaluation items is summarized are much dependent on the instrumental progress
in Table 3. It must be noted that the evaluation items related to the item 1.3 (super molecular structure) and
based on such properties and products are closely 2.1c (surface structure, profile) in Table 1. The two
related to the standards, such as ISO, ASTM and JIS representative examples related to 2.1c are ESCA
for fibres and textiles. (electron spectroscopy of chemical analysis) and SPM
2.1.3 Trends in Evaluation Technologies in Terms of Instrumentation (scanning probe microscopy). DNA analysis has been
By introducing technological progress in mechanical effectively applied to the precise identification of
Table 1—Classification of structure evaluation items
Major classified items Intermediate classified items Detailed classified items
1 Inner structure 1.1 Polymer component 1.1a Chemical main component
1.1b Copolymer component
1.1c Terminal chemical group
1.1d Different linkage group
1.2 Polymer primary structure 1.2a Stereo regularity
1.2b Linkage manner of copolymer
1.2c Isomeric structure
1.2d Molecular weight
1.2e Molecular weight distribution
1.3 Super molecular structure 1.3a Crystal structure
1.3b Crystalinity
1.3c Crystal size, shape and orientation
1.3d Longitudinal structure
1.3e Molecular configuration and density
of amorphous region
1.4 Blend structure 1.4a Polymer blend component and its related
structure
1.4b Dispersing structure of polymer blend
1.4c Additive component
1.4d Dispersing structure of additive
2 Outer structure and configuration 2.1 Fibre structure 2.1a Specific gravity
2.1b Cross-sectional structure
2.1c Surface structure and profile
2.1d Multi- component structure
2.1e Lateral structure
2.2 Fibre configuration 2.2a Fibre length and fibre length distribution
2.2b Fibre thickness and linear density
2.2c Crimp, latent crimp and latent shrinkage
2.3 Yarn structure 2.3a Fibre component
2.3b Yarn linear density
2.3c Yarn type, yarn cross-sectional structure
2.3d Fibre distribution
2.3e Hairiness
2.3f Textured structure
2.3g Latent torque and snarl
2.4 Fabric structure 2.4a Yarn component
2.4b Type of fabric, interlacing structure
2.4c Yarn density, areal density and cover factor
2.4d Fabric thickness and fabric lateral structure
2.4e Fabric surface profile, surface fuzziness, tufted
profile and raised profile
300 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

Table 2—Classification of properties evaluation items

Major classification items Intermediate classified items
1 Physical properties 1.1 Optical properties, 1.2 Thermal properties, 1.3 Electric properties,
1.4 Dimensional properties, 1.5 Swelling properties, 1.6 Thermosetting properties
2 Mechanical properties 2.1 Elongation properties, 2.2 Tearing/bursting properties, 2.3 Bending properties,
2.4 Shearing/torsional 2.5 Compressional properties, 2.6 Tribological properties,
properties,
2.7 Wearing properties, 2.8 Visco-elastic properties, 2.9 Impact resistance
properties
2.10 Temperature / humidity
dependency of mechanical
properties
3 Chemical properties 3.1 Surface chemical 3.2 Chemical resistance, 3.3 Weathering resistance
properties,
4 Biological properties 4.1 Bio-degradation 4.2 Bio-compatibility
properties,
5 Unevenness and 5.1 Unevenness in fibre, 5.2 Unevenness in yarn, 5.3 Unevenness in fabrics,
defects
5.4 Defect in fibre, 5.5 Defect in yarn, 5.6 Defect in fabrics
6 Appearance 6.1 Colour, 6.2 Lightness, 6.3 Luster,
6.4 Texture 6.5 Drape
7 Tactile feeling, and 7.1 Feeling related to 7.2 Feeling related to compression, 7.3 Feeling related to friction,
wearing mechanical bending, and surface roughness,
feeling
7.4 Feeling related to
wearing comfort
8 Colour fastness 8.1 Day light fastness, 8.2 Wash fastness, 8.3 Fastness to several liquid,
8.4 Fastness to wearing, 8.5 Fastness to sublimation, 8.6 Fastness to dry cleaning
9 Transporting 9.1 Liquid transporting 9.2 Heat transporting 9.3 Air and moisture
properties properties, properties, transporting properties,
9.4 Sound transporting
properties
10 Utility properties 10.1 Crease resistance, 10.2 Wash & wear properties, 10.3 Soil resistance,
10.4 Dimensional stability 10.5 Flame retardant properties, 10.6 Anti-static properties,
by washing,
10.7 Deformation properties 10.8 Adaptability to ironing
by wearing,
11 Hygienic properties 11.1 Safety from skin harm, 11.2 Anti-bacteria, 11.3 Anti-milkdew,
11.4 Anti-insect, 11.5 Residual smell and chemicals, 11.6 Oral toxicity and skin
toxicity
12 Process of adaptability 12.1 Adaptability to texturing 12.2 Adaptability to yarn spinning, 12.3 Adaptability to weaving,
process,
12.4 Adaptability to knitting, 12.5 Adaptability to tufting, 12.6 Adaptability to bleaching,
12.7 Adaptability to dyeing, 12.8 Adaptability to finishing, 12.9 Adaptability to sewing,
12.10 Adaptability to iron-press

natural fibres. effect have made it possible to establish the certification

The instrumentations for evaluating sensual, systems for these kinds of properties
physiological and psychological effects of textile
products on human have been much progressed, which 2.2 Innovative Technologies for Textile Measurement
have significantly contributed to develop many kinds 2.2.1 HVI Testing for Cotton Specification
of specialty textile products related to tactile feeling and High volume instrumentation (HVI) is an assembly
physiological comfort. Reliable technologies forinstru- of integrated semi-automatic electronic instruments for
mentations of utility function effects such as flame rapid determination of the colour, fineness, length,
retardant effect, anti-bacterial effect, and deodorant length distribution, trash content and strength of raw
cotton samples.34 The instrumentation has been widely
 MATSUO: INNOVATIONS IN TEXTILE MACHINE AND INSTRUMENT 301

Table 3—Classification of materials and products evaluation items

Major classified items Intermediate classified items
1 Natural fibres 1.1 Cotton, 1.2 Bast fibres, 1.3 Animal fibres,
1.4 Silk and worm fibres
2 Man-made staple fibres 2.1 Synthetic fibres, 2.2 Cellulose group fibres
3 Man-made filaments 3.1 Synthetic fibres, 3.2 Cellulose group fibre
4 Specific fibres 4.1 Carbon fibres, 4.2 Glass fibre (glass, wool, 4.3 Elastomeric fibres,
and long fibre),
4.4 Mechanically high 4.5 Thermally high performance
performance fibres, fibres

5 Mono-filaments 5.1 Synthetic fibres, 5.2 Animal gut

6 Yarns 6.1 Spun yarns, 6.2 Textured yarns, 6.3 Hybrid yarns,
6.4 Bulked continuous
filament yarns
7 Specific yarn and threads 7.1 Sewing thread, 7.2 Hand knitting yarn, 7.3 Composite gut,
7.4 Strings, 7.5 Ropes
8 Fabrics 8.1 Woven fabrics, 8.2 Knitted fabrics, 8.3 Nonwovens
9. Apparel and working wear
10 Hosiery 10.1 Stocking, 10.2 Socks
11 Home good 11.1 Pad and diaper 11.2 Towels

12 Interior, carpet and bed-clothes

13 Sporting cloth and goods
14 Protective clothing and goods
15 Medical textiles and paramedical textiles
16 Technical textiles
17 Composites
18 Miscellaneous textile goods

used to cotton quality in international commerce as a sensor for wearing pressure. But now air-pack38 is
universal standard method.35 most widely used for evaluating both wearing
comfort and wearing effectiveness for improving style
2.2.2 Instrumentation for Properties Relating to Human Perceptions and / or muscle.
2.2.2.1 Tactile Feeling (Fabric Hand)
2.2.2.3 Physiological Feeling Related to Micro-climate
Tactile feeling is mainly dependent on 3 kinds of
There have been several kinds of instruments for
mechanical properties, namely bending (pliable
measuring micro-climate using artificial skin which
stiff), compression (soft hard), and surface friction
can simulate human skin in heat growth and/or
(slippery harsh, smooth rough).36 KES system is
sweating. Measurements of temperature and/or
well known for automatic precise measuring of these
humidity are carried out by placing a fabric sample on
properties (pamphlet of KES FB Auto System, Kato
a flat plate covered by artificial skin or by dressing a
Tech. Co, 2008) and analysis method.37 But surface
garment on a mannequin covered by artificial skin.39
friction properties are highly dependent on mimic
finger tip for their sensing. Hence, it is still a remaining 2.2.3 Measurement Based on Image Processing Technology
research problem. Image analysis technology, which has rapidly
developed since 1960s, is especially useful in textile
2.2.2.2 Wearing Mechanical Feeling manufacturing and inspections, including texture
Several trials have been made to find suitable evaluation and inspection of textile surface profile.
302 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2008

Computerized image capture and image analysis offer inspection, bar code reading, template matching,
promising applications and very rapid, accurate and colour analysis, defect and failure analysis, etc.
objective measurements, in a wide range of textile Imaging technique has already started making in road
material properties. In recent research, it is into the textile field in a big way. Research works
demonstrated that how a simulation model can be have been carried out for the investigation on fibre
built to predict the 3D behaviour of a garment during cross-section analysis, maturity measurement of
wear. The research method tries to put forward a new cotton, estimation of trash in cotton, measurement of
concept in which textile materials can be created and pore size distribution, assessment of warp stripeness,
viewed in the virtual world by specifying fundamental analysis of fibre crimp, fibre blend, yarn structure
properties. Virtual materials can also be created and yarn hairiness, determination of weave type, detection
viewed in a 3D sequence, from which their behaviour of fabric defects, measurement of yarn shrinkage,
and important attributes are determined in accordance fabric drape, pilling, wrinkle measurement, carpet
with consumer understanding.40 appearance, seam pucker, screen print inspection,
Image processing is basically the technique of etc.40
manipulating and improving grey scale video images
3 Conclusions
using mathematical functions. Image analysis
All the textile machines and instruments are
involves calculations on a final image to produce
common in the points that their objective material is
numerical results. In general, a typical image
textile material and that they include at least a kind of
processing system contains three fundamental
hardware system. But their basic principles are
elements, namely an image acquisition element, an
differed each other by their own functional objectives.
image processing element, and an image display
There are two kinds of innovations in these system,
element.
namely principle driven and mechatronics /
The objective of image analysis, in general, is to information technology driven. MVS system is a
extract, from the very large amount of data in an typical example of the former. But most of
image, that small set of measurements containing the innovations have been performed by the latter. This
information of interest. The standard strategy to paper deals mainly machines and instruments which
achieve this is to break the whole task into a sequence are commercially opened. But it must be noted that
of smaller, independent steps. The objective of each most of advanced textile products are manufactured
step is to achieve a limited but significant reduction in by their own non-commercial plants.
the amount of data by discarding irrelevant
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