Erhan Kenan Çeven,

Özcan Özdemir
A Study of the Basic Parameters
Uludağ University,
Describing the Structure of Chenille Yarns
Faculty of Engineering and Architecture,
Textile Engineering Department, Abstract
Gorukle, 16059, Bursa, Turkey The basic parameters describing the structure of chenille fancy yarns produced on a che-
Tel: +90-224-4428174, nille yarn machine have been characterised. The effect of the properties of the component
E-mail: rceven@uludag.edu.tr, yarns, and that of machine parameters on the final count of the chenille yarns, have been
ozdemir@uludag.edu.tr
studied. For this purpose chenille yarns were produced in different pile lengths, twist lev-
els, yarn counts of component yarns, and an expression is derived to determine the final
count of these chenille yarns. Correlation analysis confirmed a strong linear relationship
with a high value of correlation coefficient (above 0.95) between the final count values of
chenille yarn samples obtained from the expression (formula) and that obtained from the
measurements.

Key words: chenille yarn, fancy yarn, yarn count, pile yarn, pile density, retraction.

n Introduction burst and form a soft pile surface to the

yarn [4].
Textile technologies are continuously
evolving with the objects both of in- Figure 1 shows the basic structure of a
creasing productivity and reducing chenille yarn. It consists of a cut pile
processing costs, and of creating new
(short lengths of spun yarn or filament)
products or variants of existing ones. In
which may be made of a variety of fibres
the last decade many important produc-
helically disposed around the two axial
ers of hand knitting and upholstery-fab-
threads (highly twisted fine strong yarn)
ric yarns have become particularly sen-
sitive to market requirements, and they
therefore endeavour to cater to consum-
ers’ desires by presenting new yarns.
To make the fabrics more attractive to
the purchasers, their appearance is en-
hanced by various materials, structures,
colours, patterns, finishes, and textures
[1]. For fashionable fabrics, fancy yarns
are used to produce a natural, rustic and Figure 1. Chenille yarn structure [5].
attractive product.

Fancy yarns are special products of spin-

ning, twisting, wrapping, texturing, print-
ing, knitting, etc. Fancy yarns are and will
always be up-to-date, as there is no alter-
native to them. The demand for yarns with
structural and/or optical effects is due to
their special aesthetic and high decorative
appeal to the woven, knitted materials,
and other textiles as well [2]. Fancy yarns
display deliberately introduced irregular
characteristics, in either diameter and
bulk or in colour, etc. as well as virtually
new structures composed of fibres, yarns
or other products that differentiate them
from conventional yarns [3].

Chenille yarn is a kind of fancy yarn

which charms because of its gleam and
softness. Chenille yarns are constructed
by twisting core yarns together in che-
nille yarn machines, where cut pile yarns
are inserted at right angles to the core
Figure 2. Chenille yarn production: a) Yarn-
yarn surface to create a surface in which forming zone showing depth of the former
the fibres contained in the pile yarns [5], b) Location of gauge and plywoods [8].

24 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / Juni 2006, Vol. 14, No. 2 (56)
which secure it. The short lengths are n rotary head speed, rpm (determines width and 700 turns/m twist, 10,800 for
called the pile, and the highly twisted pile density), 0.7 mm calliper width, and 850 turns/m
yarns are called the core [5, 6]. n rotary head diameter, mm, twist, 8120 rpm for 1.0 mm calliper width
n spindle speed, rpm (determines twist and 700 and 850 turns/m twists, and the
The yarns coming from the two guides at level), production speeds were held constant
both sides form the core yarns, and the n winding speed, m/min (determines at 8.85, 8.47, and 8.45 m/min respec-
one coming from the middle guide (rotat- production speed), tively. For Nm 6 count chenille yarns,
ing head) forms the piles. The pile yarns n pile density (determined by the speed head speeds were adjusted to 9120 and
are wrapped around a calliper which is of the head). 7840 rpm for 0.7 and 1.0 mm calliper
triangularly shaped at the top, narrowing widths and for both twist levels respec-
towards the base to allow the pile yarn Table 1 shows the range of the values tively, and the production speed was
coils to slide downwards onto the cutting belong to chenille yarn parameters maintained at a constant 7.20 m/min.
knife illustrated in Figure 2. The width at
the bottom of the gauge determines the In the literature, there are few studies of Yarn coding:
effect length, by maintaining the depth of the fundamental parameters that charac-
Yarn code: xyz
the pile or ‘beard’ in the final yarn. terise fancy yarns [3, 10 - 14]. Despite
x = chenille yarn count
the fact that chenille yarns are used to
produce special fabrics with high added y = group no
On each side of the cutting knife, there
value, the literature survey shows that z = pile yarn material
are two core yarns which may be either
single or two-fold yarns. One core yarn there has been no research on modelling
the chenille yarns. In the yarn codes:
is guided by the take-up roller, while the
For x: 4 - stands for Nm 4, 6 for Nm 6
other is guided by the companion roller.
The take-up roller is pressed against The purpose of this study is to fill this gap
by contributing both to the examination For y: 1 - stands for Group 1 (pile length
the profiled guide and intermeshes with
the companion roller, allowing the two of the most significant parameters gov- for 0.7 mm calliper width,
core yarns to trap the pile created by the erning chenille yarn production and to 700 turns/m twist level),
effect yarn in between them due to the the investigation of the interrelationships 2 - for Group 2 (pile length for
twist these yarns receive from the ring and specific influences of the parameters 0.7 mm calliper width,
spinning spindle. The number of the on the final yarn count by means of math- 850 turns/m twist level),
pile yarns and how many of them are fed ematical expression. 3 - for Group 3 (pile length for
onto the core determines the count of the 1.0 mm calliper width,
700 turns/m twist level),
yarn [5, 7]. n Experimental 4 - for Group 4 (pile length for
Certain parameters are of importance Chenille yarns were produced with a 1.0 calliper width, 850 turns/m
during production [9]: final count of Nm 4 and Nm 6 incorpo- twist level)
n core and effect yarn material, rating two different pile lengths (for 0.7
n the yarn count of the core and pile – 1.0 mm calliper width), two different For z: V - stands for viscose, A for
yarn, twists (700 – 850 turns/metre in an S acrylic (0.9 dtex), B for acryl-
n pile length, mm (determined by the direction) and six different pile yarn ic (1.3 dtex),
size of the calliper), materials (viscose, acrylic with 0.9 dtex C - for combed cotton, D for
n yarn twist, turns/metre (determined fibre fineness, acrylic with 1.3 dtex fibre carded cotton, O for open-end
by the spindle speed and the delivery fineness, combed cotton, carded cotton cotton
speed), and open end cotton) on a chenille fancy
n retraction value in % (the length of yarn machine. Pile and core yarn materi- We examined the results in terms of the
yarn is reduced because of twisting als were spun into chenille yarn under final yarn count for each sample type.
core yarns), identical conditions on this machine. Correlation analyses were conducted in
order to observe the relationships be-
Nm 4 count chenille yarns were produced tween the measured and calculated final
Table 1. Range of the values belonging to with two Ne 20/1 count (385 turns/m-Z,
chenille yarn parameters. count values of the yarn samples.
staple acrylic fibre) core yarns and one
Parameters Range
Ne 20/1 count pile yarn. Nm 6 count
Rotary head speed, rpm 7,500-24,000
chenille yarns were produced with two n Results and discussion
Ne 24/1 count (580 turns/m-Z, staple
Spindle speed, rpm 3,700-8,500
acrylic fibre) core yarns and one Ne 30/1 The basic parameters that influence the
Production speed, m/min 4-24
count pile yarn. The core yarn material characteristics and appearance of che-
Chenille yarn count, Nm 1-12
was acrylic for both the Nm 4 and the Nm nille yarns are the component yarn types,
Core and pile yarn count, Nm 20-50
6 count chenille yarns. the count of the component yarns that
Number of pile yarns 1-3 form the fancy yarn, the pile yarn count
Yarn twist, turns/metre 700-1,200 and core yarn count, the average number
The final counts of the chenille yarns
Gillette type 0.15-0.20
Cutting knife were kept constant by varying the head of pile yarns per metre (pile density), the
thickness, mm Rotary blade 0.20-1.00
speeds. For Nm 4 count chenille yarns, circumference of the calliper (2× pile
Calliper size, mm 0.7-3.0
the head speeds on the machine were length), twist level and the retraction
Calliper thickness, mm 0.4-0.6
adjusted to 11,250 for 0.7 mm calliper value in percent due to twisting.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / Juni 2006, Vol. 14, No. 2 (56) 25
Description of basic parameters
Nmch - Chenille yarn count, m/g
Nmc - Core yarn count, m/g (9)
Nmp - Pile yarn count, m/g
nrh - Rotary head speed, rev/min Equation 9.
ns - Spindle speed, rev/min
L - Production speed, m/min
yarn, and then determined the weight of From our measurements and computa-
T - Chenille yarn twist level, turns/m
R - Retraction value in percent, % the component yarns. tion, we obtain the following expression,
Lzt - Length of zero twist yarn, m Nmch, for determining the final count of
Lt - Length of twisted yarn, m Wc = (1) the chenille yarns (Equation 9).
k - Circumference of the calliper, m
cw - Calliper width, m We took into account the retraction of
According to equation 9, we can draw the
ct - Calliper thickness, m the yarn due to the twist:
following:
ckt - Cutting knife thickness, m
a - Pile density, rotation/m R= (2) n Increasing nrh and decreasing L lead
h - Number of pile yarns fed into to increased a, resulting in the produc-
the rotary head Wp = (3) tion of coarser yarns.
z - Number of pile yarns per twist
of the chenille yarn In this equation (3): n Decreasing L at constant ns leads to
Wc - Core yarn weight for 1 metre of increased T and R; these lead to the
chenille yarn, g/m k= (4)
production of coarser yarns.
Wp - Pile yarn weight for 1 metre of
chenille yarn, g/m L= (5)
Wch - Chenille yarn weight for 1 metre We also obtained a formula for calculat-
of chenille yarn, g/m a= (6) ing the number of pile yarns for each
Lp - Pile yarn length for one metre of twist of the chenille yarn (z):
chenille yarn, m The chenille yarn weight is the sum of the
Lpt - Pile yarn length for 1/T metre of core yarn weight and pile yarn weight. If the twist level is T for chenille yarn, the
chenille yarn, m length of one twist is 1/ T metre. We also
Hence from (1) and (3) we obtain: considered the number of pile yarns fed
Relation between the basic (7) to the rotary head.
parameters
We determined the actual length of the (8)
Lp = (10)
core and pile yarns in 1 metre of chenille

Table 2. Experimental results for chenille yarns; 1) Calliper thickness=0.5x10-3 m. Cutting knife thickness = 0.6 x10-3 m, Calliper width:
0.7x10-3 m for yarn no: 1-12, 25-36 and 1.0 x10-3 m for yarn No.: 13-24, 37-48.

Yarn Yarn Retraction Pile density Yarn Yarn Retraction Pile density
Nmch k1), m Nmch k1), m
No Code (R), % (a), rot/m No. Code (R), % (a), rot/m
1 41V 4.25 11.97 1271.19 0.0046 25 61V 5.94 8.76 1266.67 0.0046
2 41A 4.29 11.82 1271.19 0.0046 26 61A 5.97 8.26 1266.67 0.0046
3 41B 4.19 11.66 1271.19 0.0046 27 61B 5.96 8.42 1266.67 0.0046
4 41C 4.24 11.66 1271.19 0.0046 28 61C 5.96 8.26 1266.67 0.0046
5 41D 4.21 11.82 1271.19 0.0046 29 61D 5.96 7.92 1266.67 0.0046
6 41O 4.14 11.82 1271.19 0.0046 30 61O 5.93 7.92 1266.67 0.0046
7 42V 4.20 14.09 1275.09 0.0046 31 62V 5.91 11.19 1266.67 0.0046
8 42A 4.23 14.09 1275.09 0.0046 32 62A 5.91 11.03 1266.67 0.0046
9 42B 4.16 13.94 1275.09 0.0046 33 62B 5.91 11.03 1266.67 0.0046
10 42C 4.18 13.94 1275.09 0.0046 34 62C 5.89 11.19 1266.67 0.0046
11 42D 4.17 13.79 1275.09 0.0046 35 62D 5.92 11.03 1266.67 0.0046
12 42O 4.17 13.79 1275.09 0.0046 36 62O 5.89 11.35 1266.67 0.0046
13 43V 4.71 11.66 960.95 0.0052 37 63V 6.15 8.76 1088.89 0.0052
14 43A 4.72 11.50 960.95 0.0052 38 63A 6.11 8.26 1088.89 0.0052
15 43B 4.69 11.35 960.95 0.0052 39 63B 6.08 8.42 1088.89 0.0052
16 43C 4.72 11.50 960.95 0.0052 40 63C 6.14 8.26 1088.89 0.0052
17 43D 4.72 11.03 960.95 0.0052 41 63D 6.07 8.09 1088.89 0.0052
18 43O 4.70 11.19 960.95 0.0052 42 63O 6.08 8.42 1088.89 0.0052
19 44V 4.72 13.94 960.95 0.0052 43 64V 6.09 11.35 1088.89 0.0052
20 44A 4.69 13.79 960.95 0.0052 44 64A 6.01 11.35 1088.89 0.0052
21 44B 4.70 13.79 960.95 0.0052 45 64B 6.03 11.19 1088.89 0.0052
22 44C 4.72 13.64 960.95 0.0052 46 64C 6.03 11.03 1088.89 0.0052
23 44D 4.68 13.94 960.95 0.0052 47 64D 6.02 11.03 1088.89 0.0052
24 44O 4.73 13.79 960.95 0.0052 48 64O 6.02 11.19 1088.89 0.0052

26 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / Juni 2006, Vol. 14, No. 2 (56)
Figure 3. Calculated and measured chenille yarn count values Figure 4. Calculated and measured chenille yarn count values
versus yarn number; according to Table 2; × − calculated value, versus yarn number; according to Table 2; × − calculated value,
• − measured value. • − measured value.

Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the calculated confirmed a strong linear correlation

Lpt = = (11) and measured yarn count values versus relationships between the chenille yarn
yarn number for Nm 4 and Nm 6 count count results obtained from the formula
chenille yarn samples respectively. and measurements.
z= (12)
The linear correlation coefficient was On the basis of the findings given above,
From (5) and (12) we obtain: calculated in order to confirm the rela- it can be demonstrated that this new for-
tionships between the values obtained mula seems to be promising for assessing
z= (13) from the formula and measurement. We the count of chenille fancy yarns.
wanted to check whether the chenille
The z parameter in equation 13 can be yarn count results obtained from the for- Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8 illustrate the chang-
used for predicting the yarn’s appearance mula and measurements were consistent. es for chenille yarn counts versus pile
before the production of chenille yarns. yarn counts for selected constant yarn
The border value of z can be used as a The border value of the correlation coeffi- and machine parameters and variables,
reference for the yarns, which must have cient at a random degree n-2=46, and the according to expression 9.
sufficient pile density. significance level α=0.05, above which
the correlation exists, is 0.285. Accord- These figures aid the monitoring of the
Table 2 lists the tested parameters of the ing to this, there is a linear correlation effects of the changes on chenille yarn
chenille yarns. Two pile yarns are fed between measurement and calculation. counts for some variables like pile length,
into the rotary head for the production of The high value of correlation coefficient production speed, rotary head speed and
all types of chenille yarns. which we obtained, above 0.95 (0.955), core yarn count.

production
speed
calliper
width

Figure 5. Chenille yarn counts versus pile yarn counts for different Figure 6. Chenille yarn counts versus pile yarn counts for different
pile lengths (calliper widths); Constant values: nrh =1,6860 rpm, production speeds; Constant values: nrh =16,860 rpm, Core yarn
ns =5130 rpm, L, = 7.12 m/min, Core yarn count = Nm 33.86, count = Nm 33.86, h = 1, R = 5%, Calliper width = 0.7×10-3 m,
h = 1, R = 5%. k= 4.4×10-3 m.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / Juni 2006, Vol. 14, No. 2 (56) 27
 core yarn
rotary head count
speed

Figure 7. Chenille yarn counts versus pile yarn counts for different Figure 8. Chenille yarn counts versus pile yarn counts for
rotary heads speeds; Constant values: L = 7.12 m/min, Core yarn different core yarn counts; Constant values: nrh =16,860 rpm,
count = 33.86 Nm, h = 1, R = 5%, Calliper width = 0.7×10-3 m, L = 7.12 m/min, a =2367.98, h = 1, R= 5%, Calliper width =
k= 4.4×10-3 m. = 0.7×10-3 m, k= 4.4×10-3 m.

Graphs and equation 9 can be used both of chenille yarns, and as a reference odhead Publishing Limited, U.K, 2002,
to reproduce an existing chenille yarn for the yarns which must have suffi- pp.55-56, 81-84.
and to create a new type that has been cient pile density. 6. Özdemir, Ö., Çeven, E. K., Influence of
merely designed on paper. Chenille Yarn Manufacturing Parameters
n Furthermore, it will be useful to carry on Yarn and Upholstery Fabric Abrasion
out studies on the influence of twist Resistance, Textile Res. J, 2004, 74(6),
n Conclusions setting and dyeing processes on the p. 515-520.
7. Özdemir, Ö., Kalaoğlu, F., The Effect of
n Chenille yarns are used to produce variation of physical properties (yarn
Material and Machine Parameters on
value added fabrics, but the modelling count, yarn twist, retraction) of che-
Chenille Yarn Properties, in “Proc. Tecni-
of such yarns has not yet been investi- nille yarns.
tex Autex Conference, ‘ 2001, pp.184-189.
gated. 8. Kalaoğlu, F., Demir, E., Chenille Yarn
Properties and Performance of Chenille
n In this study, the significant param- Acknowledgment Upholstery Fabrics, Textile Asia, 2001,
eters governing chenille yarn produc- (3), p. 37-40.
We are grateful to the Baron Kala Industry and
tion were examined. Trade Co., Rekor Textile Co., and Prestige 9. Çeven, E. K., An Investigation About the
Textile Co. for providing the chenille yarns. Effect of Some Production Parameters
n The effect of the parameters such as Ö. Özdemir and E. K. Ceven wish to thank Ali on Yarn Properties at Chenille Spinning
component yarn properties and ma- Kalaoğlu for very useful discussions. Machines, Masters thesis, The University
chine parameters on the final count of of Uludag, Bursa-Turkey, 2002.
the chenille yarns was studied. 10. Grabowska, K. E., Characteristics of Loop
References Fancy Yarn, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern
n An expression was derived to deter- Europe, 2000, No. 1, p. 26-28.
1. Mole, K., Knox, J. S., The Properties and 11. Grabowska, K. E., Characteristics of Slub
mine the final count of the chenille
Uses of Specific Hollow-spindle Yarns, Fancy Yarn, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern
yarns. There is a good correlation, J.Textile Inst., 1989, 80 (3), p. 441.
with a high value of correlation co- Europe, 2001, No. 1, p. 28-30.
2. Petrulyte S., Fancy Yarns: Efforts to 12. Grabowska, K. E., Characteristics of Frotte
efficient (above 0.95), between the Methodize, Problems, and New Sugge- Fancy Yarns, Fibres & Textiles in East-
measured and calculated counts of stions, Materials Science, 2004, 10 (1), ern Europe, 2001, (Oct /Dec), p. 16-19.
the chenille fancy yarns. This result p. 85-88. 13. Belov, E.B., Lomov, S.V., Truevtsev, N.N.,
seems to be promising for assessing 3. Testore, F., Minero, G., A Study of the Bradshaw M.S., Harwood R.J., On the
the count of chenille fancy yarns. It Fundamental Parameters of Some Fancy problem of fancy yarn modelling, Fibres
will be a practical method and enable Yarns, J. Textile Inst.,1988, 79 (4), p. 606. & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 1999, No. 2,
rapid interpretation. 4. Kalaoğlu, F., Özdemir Ö., A Study of p. 32-34.
Wool Chenille Yarn Properties, in “Proc. 14. Testore, F., Guala, G. M., Effect yarns:
n An expression was derived for calcu- Ist International Textile, Clothing & Design Properties and Parameters, J. Textile
lating the number of pile yarns per one Conference,’ 2002, pp.195-198. Inst.,1989, 80 (3), p. 377.
twist (z). This can be used to predict 5. Gong, R. H., Wright R. M., ‘Fancy Yarns,
yarn appearance before the production Their Manufacture and Application,’ Wo- Received 07.04.2004 Reviewed 10.10.2004

28 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / Juni 2006, Vol. 14, No. 2 (56)