Summerlin
Designed by Alice Schnebly
If you’re like me, knitting is not your
only craft. I’ve dabbled in
everything from paper making to
polymer clay. The two that I enjoy
most though are sewing and
knitting. The desire to combine my
two favorite pastimes inspired me to
design Summerlin. I love how yarn
and fabric come together in this cute
garment.
The bodice is knit and works up very
quickly. The skirt uses simple
sewing techniques and is much
quicker to make than if it were
knitted. It’s also a great way to add
fun colors and patterns to your
knitting without having to use
complex knitting skills! I’ve added
three different fabric bottoms to the
pattern that you can create—two
gathered versions, as well as a
super-simple apron top for novice
sewers.
I hope you have fun choosing fun
yarn and fabric combinations, and
enjoy creating cute outfits for your
favorite little princess as much as I
have for mine!
Size
Sizes to fit girls 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) years with 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) inch chest size. Ages
are approximate. Actual finished chest measurements are 17 (19, 21, 23, 25)
inches. Dress is design to have small amount of negative ease. Choose the size to
best fit intended recipient. Smallest size is listed first, with the following sizes listed
in parentheses. It may be helpful to circle or highlight the numbers of the size you
are working.
Supplies
1 skein TLC Cotton Plus (51% Cotton/49% Acrylic, 100g/178 yards) or Lion Brand
Cotton Ease (50% Cotton/50% Acrylic, 100g/207 yards); multiple bodices can be
made from one skein.
US 6 (4 mm) knitting needles
Stitch holder
Two stitch markers
Darning needle
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Summerlin
Supplies (Continued)
Coordinating fabric (see fabric chart for amount needed)
Coordinating sewing thread
One or two ½” buttons
Ribbon for embellishment (optional)
Gauge
5 sts/inch on size US 6 needles
Please do a gauge swatch before beginning as it is crucial for proper sizing.
Pattern Notes
Abbreviations Used:
CO: cast on
RS and WS: right side and
wrong side.
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches
together as one.
M1L: With left hand needle,
pick up strand between
needles from the front, knit
into back of new stitch.
M1R: With left hand needle,
pick up strand between
needles from the back, knit
into front of new stitch.
st/sts: Stitch/stitches
PM: Place marker
Knitting the Bodice
Left Front:
Straps:
CO 5 sts
Set up Row: k all
Row 1: k all.
Row 2: k2, p1, k2
Repeat last two rows until you
have worked 42 (48, 54, 60,
66) rows from set up row.
Begin increases:
Row 1: k2, M1L, k to last 2 sts, M1R, k2 (RS)
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, k2 (WS)
Repeat last two rows until you have 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) sts, ending with a WS row.
Break yarn. Place stitches for left front on holder.
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Summerlin
Right Front:
Work right front the same way as the left front (leave stitches on needle and do not
break yarn), then continue as follows:
Row 1 (Joining Row): k2, M1L, k to last two stitches, M1R, PM, k2tog, begin working
left front stitches from holder with RS facing, k2tog, PM, M1L, k to last two
stitches, M1R, k2 (Note: You should have 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts)
Row 2: k2, p to first marker and remove marker, k2, p to last two sts, k2
Row 3: k2, M1L, k to marker and remove marker, p2, knit to last two stitches M1R,
k2
Row 4: k2, p to last two sts, k2
Row 5: k2, M1L, knit to last two sts, M1R, k2 (Note: You should have 36 (40, 44,
48, 52) sts)
Row 6: k2, p to last two sts, PM, k2, CO 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) sts using backward
loop method
Row 7: k to last 2 sts, PM, k2, CO 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) sts using backward loop
method (Note: You should have 84 (94, 104, 114, 124)
Row 8: k to first marker, p to second marker, k to end
Row 9: k all
Row 10: k to first marker, p to second marker, k to end
For two largest sizes ONLY: Repeat rows 9 and 10 once more.
Garter stitch band:
k 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) rows, removing markers as you come to them.
BO all sts
Finishing:
Add one or two button loops depending on size of your buttons, using tutorial
available at http://autoscopia.com/amelia/archives/2005/12/buttonloops.html.
Place bodice face down. Sew ends of the straps to back band. Weave in ends.
Preparing your Fabric
At this point it is helpful to launder both your knitted bodice piece and your fabric as
you plan to wash your garment in the future. This will prevent any mishaps that
might occur if the pieces shrink at different rates at the first washing. For my dress I
machine washed both pieces in cold water and tumbled dry on the low setting.
I’ve provided a chart with the dimensions you’ll need to cut your fabric. The numbers
are based on average heights and measurements and account for a ½” seam
allowance and ½” overlap of the bodice. If you’d rather have a more custom fit, or
your finished bodice is a different size, I’ve included basic formulas to help determine
the size you’ll need to cut your fabric. Measurements you’ll need to provide will be
the length around bottom of bodice piece, preferred seam allowance, and desired
length of skirt or top from the bodice piece. I’ve also given estimations for length of
each piece, however we all know how different each child is so if you have the child
present you can measure your own length.
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Summerlin
Fabric Size Chart (in inches)
Note: Width measurements will only be accurate if you achieved gauge for bodice.
Less Gathered More Gathered Apron Top
12 month 27 x 12 35 x 12 18 x 6
2 year 30 x 15 39 x 15 20 x 7
3 year 33 x 18 43 x 18 22 x 8
4 year 36 x 21 47 x 21 24 x 9
5 year 39 x 25 51 x 25 26 x 10
Customized formulas (given in Width x Length):
For gathered dresses:
Less gathered: Cut piece of fabric that is (1.5 x Bodice + 2 x Seam allowance) by
(Desired length from bodice* + Seam allowance + .5”)
More gathered: Cut piece of fabric that is (2 x Bodice + 2 x Seam allowance) by
(Desired length from bodice* + Seam allowance + .5”)
*If you don’t have your recipient present for measurements substitute the following
number that coordinates to the size you’re making: 11” (14”, 17”, 20”, 23”).
Finished dress should fall at or just below knee.
For apron top:
Cut piece of fabric that is (Bodice + 2 x Seam
allowance) by (Desired length from bodice** +
Seam allowance + .5”)
**If you don’t have your recipient present for
measurements substitute the following number
that coordinates to the size you’re making: 5”
(6”, 7”, 8”, 9”). Finished top should fall at or just
below hip.
Onto the Sewing
Now it’s time to break out your sewing machine. I
am by no means an expert seamstress but I would
recommend knowledge of basic sewing techniques
before you begin this section of your dress. If you
find yourself stuck, pictures detailing the following
steps can be found on the Summerlin pattern page
at http://kathrynivy.com/.
Gathered Dresses:
1. Finish edges of fabric piece. You can finish your edges in whichever way you like.
I prefer to use an overlocked edge, but if you don’t have a serger you can finish
your edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears.
2. Pin shorts sides together starting 2” (2.5”, 2.5”, 3”, 3”) from top.
3. Sew from top pin down, using a ½” seam.
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4. Press open seam. Make sure to press the top slit in the same manner as the
seam.
5. Iron bottom hem up ½”.
6. Sew ¼” seam at hem using edge of presser foot as a guide.
7. Change your sewing machine to the longest stitch length. Baste ½” down from
top of skirt. DO NOT BACK STITCH. I find it best to baste for 12” and then start
a new set of stitches about ¼” away from the first line of stitches. Be sure to
leave at least 6” tails of thread at the end of each section.
8. Mark center of skirt with pin (I find it easiest to work in halves). Using thread
tails, pull to gather top edge of skirt. Make sure gathers remain even. Once the
first half of the fabric measures half of the bodice measurement repeat for the
second side.
9. Iron down gathers above the basting line. This makes it a little easier to handle
and the underside of the bodice looks a little cleaner.
10. Pin bodice to skirt overlapping ½”, or just eyeball and overlap the first two garter
ridges.
11. Change stitch length on your sewing machine to 4. Attach bodice to skirt by
sewing in the ditch between the first and second garter ridges.
12. Remove basting stitches with seam ripper, or you can remove them by carefully
snipping the stitch in the center of each basting line and gently pulling the
threads out from each side.
13. Trim threads, sew on buttons. Add a cute ribbon to the front if you’d like and give
to your favorite little girl!
Apron Top
1. Finish edges of fabric (see above).
2. Turn each short edge in ½” and iron.
3. Sew each with a ¼” seam using the edge of your presser foot as a guide.
4. Iron bottom hem up ½”.
5. Sew ¼” seam at hem using edge of presser foot as a guide.
6. Pin bodice to top piece overlapping ½”, or just eyeball and overlap the first two
garter ridges.
7. Change stitch length on your sewing machine to 4. Attach bodice to skirt by
sewing in the ditch between the first and second garter ridges.
8. Trim threads and sew on buttons. Embellish with ribbon if desired.
Questions? Email us at
help@kathrynivy.com or visit
us online at
www.KathrynIvy.com.
This pattern is intended for personal
use only. The entire contents of this
pattern are subject to copyright by
www.KathrynIvy.com. In purchasing
this pattern, you have purchased the
right to print and use this pattern for
your own non-commercial use. Designs
may not be produced for commercial
resale. No part of this pattern may be
reproduced in any form. All designs,
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by federal copyright law.
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