All 4

Banff
Seasons

National Park

Darwin Wiggett
Banff
Banff National Park is Canada’s oldest and most
famous park. Its reputation for rugged beauty,
abundant wildlife, and great hiking and skiing is
known worldwide. This popularity is reflected in the
millions of visitors Banff receives each year.
Although the numbers seem overwhelming, it’s still Banff has 350 kilometres
surprisingly easy to leave the throbbing crowds
of public roadway, so
behind and experience the quiet, serene, and wild
side of Banff. And no, you won’t need to hike for there is a lot to explore.
kilometres, or stay in isolated backcountry lodges
to achieve this solitude or to connect with nature.
Much of what appeals to nature photographers is
awaiting discovery at the nearest roadside pull-off.

This eBook outlines my favourite drives in Banff

National Park (please note: the Banff section of
the Icefields Parkway is covered separately in the
eBooks The Icefields Parkway and The Icefields
Parkway Winter Edition). Included in this eBook
are the following routes with all the iconic spots
and some secret stops along the way: Lake
Minnewanka Scenic Drive, Tunnel Mountain Road
and Drive, the Banff town site, Mount Norquay
Scenic Drive, Vermilion Lakes Scenic Drive, and
Lake Louise and vicinity. In short there is an
overwhelming number of amazing places to see
and photograph. So why wait? Let’s start
exploring all the best that Banff has to offer in Mt Rundle and Tunnel Mountain as seen from the second Vermilion Lake
all four seasons. (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 80mm lens, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
 Banff2 Tunnel Mountain Drive & Tunnel Mountain Road 78
Getting Started 8 Surprise Corner 78
When to Go 11 Tunnel Mountain Trail 82
May 12 Golf Course & Rundle Viewpoint 84
June 15 Tunnel Mountain Viewpoint 87
July and August 16 Hoodoos Viewpoint 88
September 17 Trans Canada Highway Viewpoint 91
October 19 Mount Norquay Scenic Drive 92
Winter in Banff 20 Vermilion Lakes Scenic Drive 94
November 21 Location Summary for the Vermilion Lakes Scenic Drive 98
December 21 Photo Tip Use Props to Spice up Your Photos 113
January 22 Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) 115
February and March 23 Fireside Picnic Area  116
April 24 Backswamp Viewpoint  120
Where to Stay 26 Muleshoe Picnic Area  123
How to Use this Guide 27 Sawback Burn 126
A Word on Photographic Techniques 29 Photo Tip Squint Your Eyes 130
Lake Minnewanka Scenic Drive 30 Sawback Picnic Area 132
Cascade Ponds and the Old Banff Airstrip 31 Hillsdale Meadows 134
Cascade Meadows 35 Pilot Pond  139
Johnson Lake 37 Johnston Canyon  140
Two Jack Lakeside Campground 40 Moose Meadows  145
Two Jack Lake Picnic Site 43 Silverton Falls  147
Palliser Exhibition Viewpoint 46 Castle Junction/Castle Mountain Bridge 148
Lake Minnewanka 49 Storm Mountain Viewpoint  155
Upper Bankhead 53 Castle Internment Camp  157
Lower Bankhead 54 Lodgepole Road 158
Photo Tip Painting with Light 59 Baker Creek Picnic Area 159
The Town of Banff 62 What about the Trans Canada? 162
Bow River Canoe Launch 63 Morant’s Curve 163
Fenland Loop 64 Lake Louise & Vicinity 166
Banff Avenue 67 Lake Louise 166
Cascade Gardens 69 Photo Tip Kneeling or Standing? 175
Cave and Basin National Historic Site 70 Moraine Lake 176
Bow Falls and the Banff Springs Golf Course 72 Conclusion185
Banff Sulphur Mountain Gondola 76 About Darwin 186
4 5
Getting Started and Lake Louise. Simply look up the road or
highway you plan to drive and follow along using the
distances and GPS coordinates given and you’ll find
The town of Banff, Alberta is located 128
the best photographic potential that Banff National
kilometres (80 miles) west of Calgary, Alberta or
Park has to offer. The maps on the previous page
140 kilometres (85 miles) east of Golden B.C.
are a good starting point to give you a general
along the Trans Canada Highway (Highway
orientation of the area and the location of the roads
1). From whichever direction you arrive, the
and highways described in this book.
town of Banff and the town of Lake Louise (57
kilometres/35 miles west of Banff) provides
Please note that the GPS coordinates are not of any
the two starting points for highways and roads
specific locale or where you should set your tripod
described in this eBook.
for photos but are instead the location of overlooks
or trail-head parking spots where you should start
This guide is divided into sections based on
exploring for compositions of your own.
access roads and highways to and from Banff

Mileage and GPS coordinates are approximate

(as odometer and GPS accuracy varies) and so I
highly recommend you purchase good topographic/
road maps of the area to keep yourself properly
orientated.

I use Gem Trek Maps (www.gemtrek.com). These

maps have the roads, trails, stops of interest,
names of mountains, and topographic information
which will supplement the information presented in
this eBook. I claim no responsibility for the accuracy
of mileage markers or the GPS coordinates.

The Sawback Burn in fog

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at 273mm, 0.3s at f11)
8 9
 When to Go
This eBook covers all four seasons in Banff
National Park. If you want specific coverage of the
Icefields Parkway section of Banff National Park,
then please refer to The Icefields
Parkway and The Icefields Parkway
Winter Edition eBooks. Below I
have summarized the highlights of
each season so that you can decide
which month is best for your visit.
Please note that the seasons in the
Rockies do not follow the traditional
temperate calendar of seasons. The
winter is long (very long!) and the
spring, summer and fall are relatively
short (sometimes all three seem to
happen in one week!). Pick when
Johnson Lake and
you plan to go carefully and expect Cascade Mountain
snow almost any month. Below I (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-
85mm lens at 62mm, 1/8s at f20,
have summarized the highlights of Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
each season.

Hikers on the Larch Valley Trail in September

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 17-40mm lens at 40mm, 1/6s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

10 11
May Bears are active in valley bottoms and along
highways and roads where they are seen dining
on ‘ditch salad’ (new vegetation) or they can be
May is the season of transition from winter to
seen hoovering up spilled grain along the railway
spring in Banff National Park. The low elevation
tracks. Although deer, elk and sheep are numerous
lakes are ice-free in early to mid-May while higher
and easily photographed during May they look like
elevation lakes do not completely melt until mid-
grunge rock stars with shaggy unkempt fur that is
June. During the last two weeks of May the aspen
shedding off in huge clumps. Also be aware that
trees and willows in low valleys leaf out contrasting
wood ticks are abundant during the spring and you
fresh lime greens with snow-capped peaks soaring
should check yourself after a day’s outing for these
high above the valleys.
pesky critters. To learn more about the Rocky
Mountain Wood Tick and how to protect yourself
from and remove ticks please consult;
http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/ticksbc.htm.

May is a good season for accommodations

because almost all facilities offer low season or
early season rates. Hiking in May is restricted to
lower elevation and south-facing trails. Not all
roads or campgrounds will be open in May so
access to some locations in this eBook will be
limited. Check each location for information on
restrictions or seasonal road closures.

The first flowers in Banff are crocuses that

bloom in early May along south-facing grassy slopes
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Tamron 180mm macro lens, 1/320s at f4)

12 13
 June
With fresh green throughout the valleys, and the
high peaks still sugar-frosted with snow, June
is a splendid month for photography in Banff
National Park.

By mid-June all campgrounds and backcountry

roads are open and early June is still great for
spotting bears along the highways. In June a
myriad of low elevation flowers begin to carpet
valley meadows. June also has the longest
days of the year; photographers interested in
capturing the dawning and waning light of a
clear day will be up by 5:00 a.m. and to bed
after 11:00 p.m. As well the sun rises and sets
the furthest north at this time of year and some
locations with north-east and north-west facing
mountain ranges need to be shot in June to look
their best.

Although June is grand for both landscape

and wildlife photography be forewarned that
clear skies are rare because June is the rainiest
month in Banff National Park. Often there will be
stretches of grey for several days especially in
the Lake Louise area.

Fresh new forest undergrowth in June along the Bow Valley Parkway
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 17-40mm lens at 40mm, 1/8s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

14 15
July and August accommodations. If you plan to camp in Banff, get
to your chosen spot early (before 2 p.m.) or make
reservations to ensure you get a spot for the night.
These are the summer months in the Canadian
July and August are rainy but the number of days
Rockies. By mid-July, even the high alpine trails
of grey skies are less than in June but be prepared
are snow-free, and the back-country hiking season
for some wet days. Fall colours begin at the end of
begins in earnest. Summer is the time for sighting
August in the high alpine (summer is short here!).
baby animals and for photographing vast alpine

September
meadows coloured with delicate wildflowers. Prime
time for alpine flowers is the last week in July and
the first week in August.
September is my favourite month in Banff
The summer season sees the return of larger National Park. The crowds, although still large, are
crowds, busier highways and expensive beginning to thin (well a tiny bit anyway). All the
trails and roads and most campgrounds are open
and the scenery and the wildlife look top-notch.

The elk are in rut, and fog and mist are common in
the mornings to add atmosphere to the landscape.
September is one of the driest months of the year
usually offering weeks of superb weather for hiking
and photography. It just does not get much better
than this! Occasionally an early-season snow-
storm coats the fall colours with a frosting of snow
that looks absolutely stunning.

If I only had two weeks of the year to visit the

Canadian Rockies, I would pick the last two weeks
of September when the fall colours are prime.
July wildflower displays
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 5s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

16 17
 October
October is one of the quietest months of the year
in Banff National Park. It’s too early for skiing, too
cold for hiking and camping (for most people), and
the park is all but empty. Late season fall colours
still abound in early October but early snowfalls,
the bighorn sheep rut, plenty of road-side wildlife,
and the crystalline edging of lakes icing over are
the subtle rewards to nature photographers who
venture into the Park later in October. The low
angled light and short days make photography
almost civilized!

Aspen trees at Muleshoe

(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 150mm lens, f22, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

Ice detail on the Bow River in October

(Canon G9, 1/13s at f6.3, Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer)
18 19
Winter in Banff November
Winter is the longest season in the Canadian I like to think of November as the season of “fire
Rockies and lasts from November through April. and ice”. During early November the lakes and
The prime months for winter photography are rivers begin to freeze over and the ice fringing the
December through March with November and April shores makes a wonderful foreground to the fiery
being transition months. sunrises that seem more prevalent at this time of
year. The amount of snow cover in November is
still relatively low and so access to many locations
is good. Accommodations are at low season rates
and so staying in Banff and Lake Louise is much
more affordable.

December
I love photographing in December because there
is a greater chance of getting a winter wonderland
with fresh snow-covered trees and big-flaked
snowfalls. As well, December brings the shortest
days of the year with sunrise lazily touching the
high peaks at about 8:45 a.m. and sunset finishing
Castle Mountain and the Bow River in November
the day at around 4:30 p.m. The light is low-angled
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 10s at f14, Singh-Ray LB Warming all day making great photography possible at any
Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter and Singh-Ray 5-stop ND filter)
time during the day.

Low season rates continue in most hotels until

at least mid-December but once the Christmas
season starts accommodation rates soar.

20 21
 In Lake Louise in January is the Ice Magic Festival
which features ice carvers vying for prizes and
the resulting ice sculptures are wonderful to
photograph – for more information go to the
www.banfflakelouise.com website.

February and March

These two months are generally the best bets for
making compelling wintery landscapes. First of all,
temperatures are more likely to be manageable
with highs around freezing (0°C, 32°F) and lows
averaging about -10°C (14°F).

Winter forest, Moose Meadows, Bow Valley Parkway Secondly, snowfall levels are significantly lower
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 70-200mm lens at 200mm, 1/25s at f11)
than in December and January so you have a

January much better chance of having lovely sunny winter

days where you can capture first light kissing the
soaring peaks with a blush of pink. The longer day
The coldest month to visit Banff and Lake Louise
length allows more hours of photography per day.
is January when the average daily high is –4.6°C
(23°F) and the average daily low is -14.1°C (5°F).
If I were to recommend the best months for winter
Although these temperature averages are not
images with a combination of good snow and
much colder than in December, January is the
periods of pleasant sunny weather then February
month when temperatures can plunge for days at
and March would be my first recommendations.
a time with highs of -25°C (-13°F) not uncommon.

So be prepared for the real possibility of cold

weather and know how to protect yourself and
your camera gear from the cold (see my eBook
Winter in the Canadian Rockies for more details).

22 23
 The Massive Range from the Bow Valley Parkway
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 45mm lens, f16, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

April
April is a dry month with little snow or rain and so
clear skies are more likely this time of year. But Lake Minnewanka in April
with the lack of fresh snowfall, photographers often (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 15mm fisheye lens, 1/25s at f20)

have to put up with old crusty snow and brown

meadows. The key to finding good images at this
time of year is to look for ice edges, fresh melt-
water ponds and views across south-facing slopes
free of snow. April is tough for photographers
looking for pristine conditions but the potential for
good images is high if you’re willing to look beyond
the obvious and be patient.

24 25
Where to Stay How to Use this Guide
This eBook is not meant to be an accommodation This guide to the photographic hot spots and
guide. The internet has loads of information on secret stops in Banff National Park is simple to
places to stay in Banff and Lake Louise so I use. Pick the section of the park (based on access
recommend checking there for deals on hotels and roads or highways) you wish to explore and then
lodges. I use www.canadianrockies.net and within each section I situate the basic location with
www.banfflakelouise.com to find my mileage markers and GPS coordinates (these are
accommodations. approximate only).

For travelers who prefer to stay in hostels for less Then I suggest what time of day and which month
expensive accommodations, I suggest visiting the or months are best for a visit to that spot.
Hostelling International website to book your stay Finally, I give you a description of what there is to
at one of the Banff National Park’s hostels - http:// photograph at that spot along with a hint or two on
www.hihostels.ca/169/canadian_hostels___travel. the best way to approach the location.
hostel
Because the time of sunrise and sunset varies
For those planning to camp in Banff National Park widely over the seasons, I highly recommend you
the link below will take you to the Parks Canada obtain information on these times during your visit.
campground listings - http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/
ab/banff/visit/visit9.aspx I use The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE - http://
photoephemeris.com) as my tool of choice not
only for determining time of sunrise or sunset but
also to calculate the precise location of each event.

26 27
 A Word on
Photographic Techniques
If you are new to photography or have never
photographed in the mountains before and need
some tips on making better images, then I suggest
you study and practice your craft before embarking
on a trip to the Canadian Rockies.

Check out www.oopoomoo.com for tips, eBooks,

techniques and links for learning photography.

Scattered throughout this eBook are some

photographic tips and techniques that can be used
at specific locations in Banff National Park. Now,
on to the locations!

Moraine Lake in July

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 1s at f18, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer,
Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)

28 29
Lake Minnewanka Cascade Ponds
Scenic Drive and the Old Banff Airstrip
For travelers driving into Banff National Park from Where: Just 0.2 kilometres (0.1 miles) up the road
the east along the Trans Canada Highway the is your first stop. On the left side of the road is a
first stop is usually the town of Banff. The first parking lot for access to the Old Banff Airstrip and
exit off the Trans Canada Highway into Banff is the Cascade Wildlife Corridor. On the right side of
at the Banff Avenue - Minnewanka Loop exit. the road is a feeder road leading to the Cascade
Set your odometer as Ponds Picnic Site.
The potential here you hit the off-ramp
for evocative nature but, rather than turning GPS 51 12' 43.1"N 115 32' 15.6"W
left onto Banff Avenue,
photography is sky high turn right onto the Lake When: Any time of
Minnewanka Scenic day, in any season but
Drive. The potential here sunrise to mid-morning
for evocative nature photography is sky high. This and late in the day to
stunning drive packs a lot of scenery, wildlife, and sunset give the best
human history into a short 15.5 kilometre (9.6 mile) results. Both locations
circular route that will fill your camera’s memory are also good on
card with hundreds of memorable images (as long overcast days.
as you remember to put a memory card in your Cascade Mountain reflected in Cascade Ponds
camera – Hey, it's happened!). Please note that How: The Old Banff with late July wildflowers
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 56mm,
in the winter, the west section of the Minnewanka Airstrip is a great place 1.3s at f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Scenic Drive from the Johnson Lake turnoff to for a stroll though
Lake Minnewanka is closed and turned into a big meadows and
cross-country ski trail. forest clumps for lots of potential not only for fine
landscape photography but also for a chance to
see and photograph wildlife that use the safety
of the corridor for daily movements. This is a

30 31
 wonderful place on grey overcast days where
you can make intimate forest and grassland
photos. In winter you can follow well-packed
trails through the snow that will lead you to views
of icefalls and the ice-climbers who Spiderman
their way up the steep slopes of Cascade
Mountain. Please note that dogs are not allowed
in the fenced wildlife corridor.

At Cascade Ponds, acres and acres of picnic

grounds complete with man-made ponds and
arching bridges greet visitors. In the summer,
when water fills up these old gravel pits, it’s
possible to make splendid reflection shots of Mt.
Rundle and Cascade Mountain from sunrise to
mid-morning. But somewhere in every shot you
take, there will be a picnic table, a bridge, an
outhouse, a pathway, or a person. So if you’re
looking for wild scenes, Cascade Ponds may
disappoint you.

Rather than fight to eliminate human evidence

from my photos, I photograph Cascade Ponds
for what they are, a manicured picnic site set
among picturesque peaks. If you want an
easy introduction to wildlife photography, the
Columbian ground squirrels that frolic in the
meadows here are very obliging.

Mount Rundle from Cascade Ponds

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 42mm, 0.5s at f13,
32 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) 33
 Cascade Meadows
Where: At kilometre 0.8 (mile 0.5) is the Johnson
Lake – Two Jack Campground junction. Turn right
here and follow the road to kilometre 3.5 (mile 2.2)
where you’ll come upon a wide expansive meadow
on both sides of the highway.

GPS 51 12' 38.6"N 115.30' 47.0"W

When: Best light is sunrise to mid-morning and

evening to sunset any time of year.

How: This meadow on either side of the road

opens up to views of Cascade Mountain, Mount
Rundle and Mount Inglismaldie. In summer,
ox-eyed daisies, an invasive species but
nevertheless beautiful, fill the meadows providing
a nice flowered foreground for your mountain
photographs. As well, this meadow is a good bet
for spotting grazing and resting elk.

Cascade Mountain from Cascade Meadows at sunrise

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 6s at f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer,
Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)

34 35
 Johnson Lake
Where: The turn-off to Johnson Lake is at
kilometre 4.5 (mile 2.8). Johnson Lake is 2.2
kilometres (1.4 miles) from the turn-off.

GPS 51 12' 24.2"N 115 30' 06.6"W

for the Johnson Lake turn-off

GPS 51 11' 58.1"N 115 29' 24.7"W

for the Johnson Lake parking lot

When: Anytime spring

through fall, sunsets
in winter.

How: A short side

road off the Lake
Minnewanka Scenic
Drive leads to Johnson
Lake, an east-west The lakeside trail at Johnson Lake
oriented lake that is (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 45mm lens,
60s at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
Banff’s most popular
swimming hole. A
wonderful 2.8 kilometre (1.7 mile) trail completely
circles the lake, and I love to wander this trail
on overcast summer days to make intimate
photographs of the rich and varied forest flora.

Johnson Lake at sunset in December

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 17mm lens, 0.3s at f11)
36 37
 If you are more interested in grand landscapes,
then mornings, from sunrise to late morning, are
most productively shot from the north bank of
Johnson Lake where halfway along, a high slope
looks down on the lake with eye-level views to first
light on Mount Rundle. At the far end of the lake
(a 1.4 kilometre/0.9 mile hike), long views back to
Cascade Mountain also look best in the mornings.

At sunset you can catch the waning light falling

on the Fairholme Range by shooting from the
west end of the lake (right below the parking lot).
In winter open water at the west end of the lake
by the footbridge is perfect for framing the icy
Cascade Mountain from the east end of Johnson Lake in morning light
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 35mm, 1/13s at f20,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

pool against the warmly lit snow-capped peaks.

In spring and summer loons, red-necked grebes,
muskrats, and belted kingfishers are frequently
seen here and easily photographed, so bring along
a telephoto lens to capture some wildlife portraits.
Even when the other lakes in the area are wind
ruffled, Johnson Lake is often calm because it is
so well sheltered.

Common loon at Johnson Lake in May

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at 400mm, 1/400s at f5.6)

38 39
Two Jack Lakeside
Campground
Where: Kilometer 5.7 (mile 3.5).

GPS 51 13' 21.4"N 115 30' 01.4"W

When: Sunrise to mid-morning and evening to

sunset mid-May through mid-September.

How: This is one of the nicest campgrounds in

the Banff area. If you are camping try and get a
site here. This spot is fantastic. Simply get out
of your tent or RV in the mornings and evenings
and wander the shoreline of Two Jack Lake for
picturesque scenes. If you have a canoe you can
paddle across the lake to get sunrise light on
Cascade Mountain. But if you have no boat, just
walk along the west shore of the lake from the
Cascade Mountain at sunrise from Two-Jack Lake
campground to the Two Jack Lake Picnic Site (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 3.2s at f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
for views to Mount Rundle dressed in the warm
colours of first light.

40 41
 Two Jack Lake
Picnic Site
Where: The picnic site parking lot is at kilometre
6.9 (mile 4.3).

GPS 51 13' 50.0"N 115 29' 51.2"W

When: Best from sunrise to mid-morning spring

through fall.

How: If it dawns clear, head to this picnic site

for a winning shot of Two Jack Lake with Mount
Rundle glowing in the background. Many spots
work along the shoreline as a foreground, but my
Mount Rundle at sunrise from the Two Jack Lake Picnic Site
favourites include the tiny island at the left end
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1.6s at f14, of the parking lot and the larger island with tall
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
spruce at the right side of the picnic area. For
an aerial view across the lake just head up the
road to the overlook at kilometre 7.1 (mile 4.4). In
winter Two Jack Lake is snow-covered ice with
little foreground interest, but in November and
April you can get interesting images as the lake
begins to freeze and thaw respectively.

42 43
 Mount Rundle at sunrise from the Two Jack Lake Picnic Site
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, f16, Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer,
44 Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film) 45
Palliser Exhibition to make the sheep spring
to life, kicking and head

Viewpoint butting anyone in sight,

rudely reminding everyone
Where: Kilometre 7.8 (mile 4.8). that despite appearances
to the contrary, these are
GPS 51 14' 07.8"N 115 29' 18.5"W still wild and potentially
dangerous animals. Keep
When: Any time. a respectable distance
and do not harass or feed
How: There are good views of Lake Minnewanka the animals no matter how
and the Palliser and Fairholme Ranges from this calm they appear to be.
spot. But more likely, a roadblock of sleepy bighorn
sheep will stop you. Don’t bother honking - they’ll This viewpoint is one of
just ignore you. You might as well just pull over the best areas to watch
and watch the show. I’m sure this would be great the annual golden eagle
material for a classic episode of "Candid Camera" migration that occurs
Bighorn sheep
– how tourists navigate dinosaur-sized motor between early March and (Canon EOS-1ds Mark II,
Canon 300mm lens 1/100s at f5.6)
homes around drowsy sheep on a mountain road. the end of April and again
in October. In the spring
The Minnewanka herd is so laid back; they often late afternoon sees the highest numbers of eagles
appear to be the work of a taxidermist, stuffed and while in fall mid-morning seems better. Bring your
propped up along the side of the road! In fact, they binoculars and long lenses to get the most of this
seem so tame that I have seen people try to pet experience where observers have seen up to 800
them or get their photos taken with arms wrapped birds in a single day!
around an animal’s neck. Such behaviour is sure

46 47
 Lake Minnewanka
Where: Kilometre 8.7 (mile 5.4) to kilometre 9.4
(mile 5.8).

GPS 51 14' 33.6"N 115 25' 41.4"W

for the Devil’s Canyon Dam Viewpoint

GPS 51 14' 52.5"N 115 30' 03.7"W

for the Minnewanka Day Use Area.

When: Sunrise to mid-morning and evening to

sunset any time of the year.

How: Lake Minnewanka is a damn large lake

or is that a lake made large by a dam? Either
way, Lake Minnewanka is one of the largest and
deepest dams in the Canadian Rockies. It’s nearly
24 kilometres (15 miles) long and is popular with
boaters as it’s the only lake in Banff that allows
motorized boats. Scuba divers come here to
explore a submerged ghost town, and sightseers
ride the tour boats for impressive views along the
big lake.

Photographers, on the other hand, seem less

impressed with the lake. The road travels right
across the Devil’s Canyon Dam and the shoreline
here is stark and unappealing. The boat launch
area looks like a commercial fishing harbour. In
The shoreline along the Minnewanka Day Use Area
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 17-40mm at 17mm, 1.0s at f16,
48 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer) 49
 sun. Don’t expect glass-calm water for mirrored
reflections though. This big lake, like an overfed
dog, is always, well… a bit windy. Try using an ND
filter to lengthen your exposures to help smooth
the waves on the water.

In early winter ice-skaters flock to the lake for

the rare experience of gliding over an ice surface
as perfect as a picture window. Once the winter
snows begin the ice gets covered with snow that
often collects in drifts due to the incessant winds.
The shoreline along the dam often has intriguing
ice formations sure to entertain the bundled up and
prepared photographer.
The shoreline along the Minnewanka Day Use Area
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 35mm, 0.4s at f22,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

short, Lake Minnewanka falls short relative to its

more popular cousins like Moraine Lake, Vermilion
Lakes, and Lake Louise. As time is a commodity
for most park visitors, and even more so for
‘serious’ photographers, why waste precious light
on a tarnished jewel when shinier trophies await
your attention elsewhere? Well, even a barnyard
turkey has its own beauty if we care to look for it
and Lake Minnewanka is full of hidden beauty. The
1.4 kilometre (0.8 mile) shoreline from the lake’s
parking lot to Stewart Canyon has strong potential
at both sunrise when the lake is backlit and at
sunset when the peaks are coloured by the setting Lake Minnewanka in December
(Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm lens, 0.3s at f16)
image courtesy of Wayne Simpson www.waynesimpsonphotography.com

50 51
 Upper Bankhead
Where: Kilometre 11.5 (mile 7.1).

GPS 51 14' 04.9"N 115 31' 04.6"W

When: Any time May through October.

How: A small feeder road leads off to the right and

takes you to a big open meadow that is a former
town for the Bankhead Mine. It is now a picnic site
full of lap-friendly ground squirrels and grazing elk.
Some house foundations can still be seen on the
south side of the picnic area.

One kilometer (0.6 miles) up the popular C-Level

Cirque hiking trail, you’ll find the skeleton of a
concrete building and some collapsed mine shafts.
Just above the building is a fine view down across
Lake Minnewanka (mid-day to sunset). Continue
on the trail for another 2.9 kilometers (1.8 miles) to
C-level Cirque for views of a tiny alpine lake and a
large rockslide with pika and hoary marmots. This
is also a good trail to search for spruce grouse.

Young marmot
(Canon Rebel Xsi, Canon 300mm lens, 1/800s at f5.6)

52 53
Lower Bankhead
Where: Kilometre 12 (mile 7.5)

GPS 51 13' 57.3"N 115 31' 26.6"W

When: Any time.

How: The abandoned coal-mining operation

of Lower Bankhead will surely delight history
buffs. Scattered amongst mounds of coal slag
and runaway rhubarb are the remnants of an
anthracite mining operation. Here you can frame
disintegrating coal carts and concrete pilings
against the distant mountains. If you are up for a
little creative photography you can use a flashlight
to wash warm light over the standing walls of the
old buildings at dusk. The resulting photos will
often be haunting and ghost-like, perfect treatment
for a mining town long since dead.

Also amidst the big open meadows of Lower

Bankhead are meandering streams, great
wildflower displays, grazing wildlife, and big
views. Be sure to hike the 1.1 kilometre (0.7 mile)
Bankhead Interpretive Trail to get a good feel for
the photographic potential of this area.
Another 2.1 kilometres (1.3 miles) down the road
the scenic drive completes its loop and intersects
the Johnson Lake turn off.
One of the delicate streams flowing from Cascade Mountain into Lower Bankhead
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 15s at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
54 55
 Coal cars and Mount Rundle from Lower Bankhead Overgrown remnant of a building at Lower Bankhead
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 70-200mm lens at 70mm, 1/8s at f22, (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TS-E, 10s at f14,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

56 57
 Photo Tip
Painting with Light
Few techniques will inspire as many "oohs"
and "aahs" as light painting. All you need is a
camera capable of making long exposures (up
to 30 seconds or more), a flashlight (larger, more
powerful flashlights work better than pocket
flashlights) and some dim natural light (dusk).

For your first attempt, find a subject just after

sunset that can easily be lit with a few swipes of
your flashlight; usually something bigger than a
breadbox but smaller than a car works best in
terms of size. Large boulders, cairns, canoes,
small docks, park benches, or small buildings all
make good subjects. Set up your composition and
focus using a sturdy tripod before it gets too dark.

Once you achieve good focus turn off autofocus to

prevent the camera from ‘hunting’ for focus once it
gets darker out.

Innukshuk at dusk lit by a flashlight

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 20mm lens, 32s at f14)

58
Be sure to include enough background around of light painting will be determined by the length
your subject so it will stand out against the rest of of time the camera shutter is open. However long
the dusky scene. Once your flashlight lights your your camera shutter is open is the amount of time
subject (or part of it) brighter than the ambient you have to complete painting the subject with
light it is time to begin. You may need to wait a light. Check your LCD and see how well you did. If
while for it to get dark enough. Use your camera the subject is too bright, paint light on the subject
to meter the brightness of the dusk scene (without for a shorter time while the shutter is open. If the
the flashlight turned on) and set the exposure subject is too dark you’ll need a longer exposure
accordingly. Most cameras will meter down to 30 and more time to paint light on the subject.
seconds. I set my camera to aperture priority at f8
and let the camera determine the shutter speed. The appeal of light-painted photographs lies in the
uniqueness of each attempt; so, no two pictures
Once my shutter speed reaches 15 seconds or will ever be exactly the same. The light will be
longer then it’s time to begin the first ‘painting’ splotchy and uneven as your brush strokes of light
Note: light painting is best done with slower dart and hesitate over the subject. Some parts of
ISO settings because longer exposure times the subject will glow with overexposure; other parts
(which low ISO’s give you) allow you more time to will be dark and mysterious. The contrast between
completely paint light over your subject. the yellow light of the flashlight and the metallic
blue of dusk also heightens the mystery. Have fun,
Use a cable release to trip your camera shutter, and while you’re out, watch for bats sweeping
and then sweep your flashlight over the subject, across the night sky.
painting it with large strokes of light until the
flashlight has lit the whole subject. Your duration
The Town of Banff Bow River
Banff is a picturesque town with a lot to offer
photographers who are interested in nature and
Canoe Launch
urban photography as well as shopping and good Where: Walk upstream a few hundred metres
food. Below are a couple of my favourite stops in along the Bow River from Central Park to the Bow
the town of Banff (besides the pubs). The best way River canoe launch.
to explore Banff is to park and get out and walk.
GPS 51 10' 40.4"N 115 34' 37"W
I usually like to park in the town’s Central Park on
the corner of Banff Avenue and Buffalo Street (GPS When: Mornings and evenings
51 10' 28.1" N, 115 34' 16.9" W) near the Banff Park May through September.
Museum. This spot is centrally located and provides
quick access to the locations that follow. How: This spot is good mid-
morning and evenings for photos
of the tranquil flowing Bow
River with coloured canoes in
the foreground. If you come a
little later in the morning there
will be tourists in rented canoes
and kayaks paddling around in
Canoes along the Bow River
the warm morning light. Mount (Canon EOS 5D Mark II,
Norquay and Mount Cory rise Canon 24-105 at 47mm, 1/20s at f13)
photo courtesy of Tom Nevesely
in the background to add a www.tnphoto.ca
mountain atmosphere to images.
Be sure to use your polarizer to
bring out the rich hues of the scene.

The path along the Bow River at Central Park looking upstream
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 24-70mm lens at 34mm, 0.3s at f18,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
62 63
Fenland Loop Mount Norquay Road that leads to a parking lot
on the left side of the road just before the Norquay
Road crosses the Trans Canada Highway.
Where: From the canoe launch continue following
the trail north a few hundred metres to a lovely
GPS 51 11' 02.4"N 115 34' 57.4"W
2.1 kilometre (1.3 mile) loop that leads through a
mature spruce forest along Echo and Forty Mile
When: Best on overcast days
Creeks. You can also drive to this trail from Central
May through October.
Park by following Banff Avenue to Wolf Street,
turning left on Wolf and following this street to a set
How: Along this trail you can
of lights, turn right and this road will turn into the
make images of the forest floor
carpeted with bunchberry,
horsetail and moss. So be sure
to dig out your macro lens for
detail shots and also look for
compositions that include the tree
Bunchberry and mushrooms
trunks for context. The two creeks (Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya
running through the fenland are 80mm macro lens, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome
slow meandering and copper- Velvia 50 slide film)
coloured due to leaching from the
spruce needles. Watch for red
squirrels here that are used to people and
will pose for photos.

Horsetail on forest floor

(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 150mm lens, f22,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

64 65
 Banff Avenue
Where: Banff Avenue between Wolf and
Buffalo Streets.

GPS 51 10' 18.1"N 115 34' 15.7"W

When: Mornings and evenings, all year long.

How: Banff Avenue is not only world

famous for its shopping but also for
its photogenic appeal. Classic views
of Banff Avenue are best taken
looking north towards Cascade
Mountain during mid-morning to
late afternoon when either the west
or east side of the street is lit by the
sun. I prefer to shoot in the morning
The famous Grizzly House restaurant on Banff Avenue
(Canon G9, 1/200s at f4.0, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer) when traffic along Banff Avenue is
quiet. I also like to make snapshots
Fire Hydrant along Banff Avenue
using a point-n-shoot camera of (Canon G9, 1/25s at f5.0)
shop displays, signs and people.
Because so many people have
cameras in this tourist town you can basically
shoot whatever you want and no one seems
to care.

66 67
 Cascade Gardens
Where: At the south end of Banff Avenue, just
over the bridge, is a five-acre rock garden full of a
variety of wild and domestic species of flowers.

GPS 51 10' 18.1"N 115 34' 15.7"W

When: Mornings, evenings

and overcast days June
through August.

How: This is a great spot

in overcast light for flower
portraits or, if it’s sunny,
visit the gardens mid- Cascade Gardens
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 24mm,
morning to early evening 1.4s at f20, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
for views north across
the flowers and pools of
water to Banff Avenue and Cascade Mountain. I
like coming here to relax and have a snack or a
snooze on a park bench amongst the flowers.

The view down Banff Avenue from Cascade Gardens

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 44mm, 1.5s at f20,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

68 69
 Cave and Basin microcosm of rich marshland warmed by thermal
springs provides a habitat where watercress grows

National Historic Site in January, robins are resident year round, and the
endangered Banff Springs snail makes its home.
Where: To get to the Cave and Basin follow Banff
Avenue south, cross the bridge over the Bow At the Cave and Basin, four
River, turn right onto Cave Avenue, and continue hikes get you close-up views
1.2 kilometres (0.7 miles) until you reach the Cave of the thermal pools and
and Basin. the unique flora and fauna
of the area. The 500-metre
GPS 51 10' 18.1"N 115 34' 15.7"W Discovery Loop is good for
those interested in seeing the
When: Any time. thermal pools. The Marsh The Marsh Boardwalk in July
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens
Boardwalk, a 0.6-kilometre loop at 32mm, 3.2s at f22, Singh-Ray LB
How: Most tourists come here to lounge around in features views of the unique Warming Polarizer)

the mineral hot springs but for natural history buffs flora indigenous to the hot
this is a splendid spot to see a rare ecosystem. A springs. The Marsh Loop (2.3 kilometres) provides
fine views across the marsh to nearly all the major
mountains in the area (best in mornings and
evenings). It is also a good place to photograph
waterfowl from the wooden blind at the end of
the marsh. Finally, the Sundance Trail parallels the
Bow River for additional views east and west to
Views upstream
along the Bow distant peaks and for a stroll up Sundance Canyon
River from the (best in overcast light). In winter the area becomes
Marsh Loop
(Canon EOS-1ds, a wonderland full of bizarre ice sculptures
Canon 70-200mm formed naturally as the steam of the hot springs
lens at 81mm,
1/320s at f11) condenses in the frigid air and coats the trees with
sculpted armors of ice.

70 71
Bow Falls and the Banff kilometre (0.6 miles) for long views back to the
hotel (best mid-morning to mid-day).

Springs Golf Course The golf course road obviously takes you to
the golf course but it also makes a 10 kilometre
Where: Take Banff Avenue south to the bridge (6 mile) one way loop through a low bench of
over the Bow River, turn left on Spray Avenue, and meadows and forest and riverside views. Along the
follow this to your next left where that road will take way you can photograph the picturesque links of
you to Bow Falls and the golf course road. the Banff Springs Golf Course, climbers on Rundle
Rock (look for the small gravel parking area on
GPS 51 09' 55.8"N 115 33' 37.0"W the right side of the road at the base on Mount
for Bow Falls Rundle), rafters on the Bow River, or the ever
present elk that are residents in the area. I have
GPS 51 10' 22.4"N 115 32' 15.9"W also had good luck photographing forest birds that
for the main entrance to the golf course seem especially tame here.

When: Any time May through October.

How: Bow Falls rumbles down a long inclined bed

of rock and ends in a large pool where the Bow
and Spray Rivers merge. Because the falls face
south, they are best lit by the mid-day sun but
they also look good in overcast or dusk light. The
Bow River turns abruptly to the east below the
falls with views to the Fairholme Range for good
photography from early evening to sunset.

For striking views of the Banff Spring Hotel with

the Bow River in the foreground, walk across the
bridge near the falls, and follow the paved path Bow Falls at dusk
along the shore of the Bow River for about one (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at 251mm, 30s at f11,
Singh-Ray Vari-N-Trio filter)

72 73
 Spruce grouse along the golf course road
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 300mm lens 1/20s at f4.5)

74 75
Banff Sulphur
Mountain Gondola
Where: Go south on Banff Avenue, cross the
bridge, turn left, and then take your first right
on Mountain Avenue. Follow this road for 3.5
kilometres (2.1 miles) to the gondola parking lot.

GPS 51 09' 55.8"N 115 33'37.0"W

When: Best mid-mornings and late afternoons

all year round except for two weeks in January
How: The gondola zips you up 698 metres (2292 Golden-mantled
for maintenance. ground squirrel
feet) to a futuristic looking teahouse at the top of (Canon EOS-1n,
Sulphur Mountain. From here, an easy boardwalk Canon 300mm
lens, f4, Fuji-
trail leads you to Sanson Peak along the ridge of chrome Velvia 50
Sulphur Mountain. All along the trail the views are slide film)

grand, but most photographers prefer the views

from the abandoned meteorological station. Be sure
to bring a polarizing filter to help cut through the
atmospheric haze. Also, you would be wise to take
along a telephoto lens because there are abundant
and friendly chipmunks, golden-mantled and
Columbian ground squirrels, Clark’s nutcrackers,
gray jays and bighorn sheep. Please do not feed
the wildlife. It is illegal and makes the animals
dependent on handouts. For more information on
hours and prices for the Gondola please see
http://www.explorerockies.com/banff-gondola/
Chipmunk
(Canon T90, Canon 300mm lens, f5.6, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

76 77
Tunnel Mountain Drive this scene is early to mid-morning, or when the hotel
lights up brightly against the blue light of dusk. This

& Tunnel Mountain Road spot is especially nice at dusk after a fresh snowfall.

This drive starts in the heart of Banff. From the

corner of Banff Avenue and Buffalo Street set your
odometer and follow Buffalo Street along the Bow
River where it runs into Tunnel Mountain Drive
(follow the signs for the Banff Centre).

Surprise Corner
Where: At kilometre 1.3 (mile 0.8) is a sharp bend
in the road; continue straight into the small parking
lot overlooking the Bow River and the Banff
Springs Hotel. The best viewpoint is 200 metres
back down the road at kilometre 1.1 (0.6 miles).

GPS 51 10' 04.8"N 115 33' 39.0"W for the viewpoint

When: Sunrise to mid-morning and dusk

any time of year.

How: The best viewpoint for photos of the Banff

Springs Hotel perched above Bow Falls is about
200 metres down the road from the parking lot.
Here the trees along the bank open up to provide
clear views of the Bow River, Bow Falls below, and
the Banff Springs Hotel above. The best light for Bow Falls and the Banff Spring Hotel from Surprise Point
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 45mm lens, f16, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

78 79
 The Banff Springs Hotel in winter from Surprise Point
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 150mm lens, f16, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
80 81
Tunnel Mountain Trail
Where: At kilometre 2.4 (mile 1.5), the Tunnel
Mountain Trail crosses Tunnel Mountain Drive.
There is a small parking lot on the left side of the
road for convenient access to the trail.

GPS 51 10' 39.2"N 115 33' 38.2"W

When: In winter, there is no access along Tunnel

Mountain Drive once past the Banff Centre so
access by car to this point is best from May
through October. The hike is good any time of day.

How: From the parking lot it is a 1.5 kilometre (0.9

mile) grunt to the summit of Tunnel Mountain. But
the rewards both east and west are worth it. I like Aster detail
it both mid-morning and early evening for lovely (Canon XSi, Canon 19-40mm lens at 40mm, 1/400s at f4.5)
postcard light across the town of Banff. Be sure to
use a polarizer to cut haze and saturate colours.

A wide angle to short telephoto zoom is a perfect

lens to take on the hike. Don’t forget your water
on a summer’s day – this is a hot hike! I also like
this hike on grey drizzly days not only because it's
cooler, but also because there are a lot of flowers,
lichens and intimate scenes to photograph.

82 83
Golf Course &
Rundle Viewpoint
Where: Look for a big open meadow on the right
side of the road at kilometre 3.7 (mile 2.3).

GPS 51 10' 59.2"N 115 33' 03.6"W

When: Mornings, May through October.

How: This meadow provides views southeast

across the Bow River, the golf course and towards
Mount Rundle. Like men, mountains are best
photographed in strong side light to show the
ruggedness of their features so this spot is best
in mornings to take advantage of the flattering
light. In early May the south facing slopes here are
populated with crocuses so be sure to look for
them if you happen to be on this look-off in spring.
Back in your car continue on Tunnel Mountain
Drive to kilometre 4.0 (mile 2.5) where the road
intersects Tunnel Mountain Road; turn right here to
continue on to the next viewpoint.

Crocuses along Tunnel Mountain Road in May

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 24-70mm lens at 58mm, 1/250s at f2.8)

84 85
 Tunnel Mountain
Viewpoint
Where: A viewpoint parking lot on the right side of
the road at kilometre 5.5 (mile 3.4).

GPS 51 11' 23.8"N 115 31' 50.8"W

When: Mornings in summer, evenings in winter.

How: Here is an easy spot to get out and make

a photograph across the Bow Valley to Mount
Rundle, or turn slightly southwest for head-on
views of Tunnel Mountain. If you’re an early
riser you can capture first light skimming across
Rundle’s rough face.

Mount Rundle at first light from the Tunnel Mountain Viewpoint

(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 45mm lens, f16, Singh-Ray Warming
Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter, Fujichrome Velvia
slide film)
86 87
Hoodoos Viewpoint
Where: Road-side parking lot at kilometre 6.1
(mile 3.8).

GPS 51 11' 20.8"N 115 31' 19.0"W

When: Mornings in summer, evenings in winter.

How: A short 600-metre

trail takes you to three
viewing platforms with
panoramas of the Bow and
Spray Valleys and views
down to the hoodoos. These
geological landforms are a
conglomerate of silt, gravel View of the hoodoos and Mount Rundle at sunrise
and boulders held together (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 24mm, 0.4s at f11,
Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
by dissolved limestone. You
can photograph them from
Mount Rundle and the Bow River
from below the hoodoos in early May the viewing platforms (the
(Canon 17mm TS-E lens, 1/125 at f8) farthest one provides the
best views), or you can hike
down one of many feeder
trails to the base of the hoodoos for close-up
views. The best light spring through fall is generally
in the morning as eastern light spills across the
Bow Valley and lights up Mount Rundle.

88 89
 Trans Canada
Highway Viewpoint
Where: Look for a small ridge on the right side of
the road at kilometre 8.5 (mile 5.3).

GPS 51 12' 10.9"N 115 31' 30.2"W

When: Sunset to dusk.

How: Safely park your vehicle and make your

way up the small ridge to a clear view of the Trans
Canada Highway in the valley with the Fairholme
Range as the backdrop. This spot is good to
catch last light on the high peaks or to make
long exposures in the blue light of dusk. The
Tunnel Mountain Road intersects Banff Avenue at
kilometre 9.5 (mile 5.9).

The Trans Canada Highway from the Tunnel Mountain Road

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at 120mm 173s at f8,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

90 91
Mount Norquay your knees, or even having to don hiking boots.
Often there will be bighorn sheep and Columbian

Scenic Drive ground squirrels sunning themselves on the grassy

meadow; this is a perfect place to snap some
Where: Two interchanges lead off the Trans wildlife portraits with the broad Bow Valley below.
Canada Highway into Banff. The eastern one leads
to Banff Avenue and the Lake Minnewanka Loop,
while the western one leads to Vermilion Lakes
Drive (turn left) and Mount Norquay Scenic Drive
(turn right and set your odometer). Or if you’re
coming from downtown Banff, follow Lynx Street
north, past the hospital where Lynx turns into
the Mount Norquay Road. Continue across the
overpass to the Trans Canada Highway (set your
odometer). Your ultimate destination is the ‘green
spot’, a large open meadow 5.0 kilometres (3.1
miles) up the Mount Norquay Road.

GPS 51 11' 50.3"N 115 35' 16.9"W

When: Late afternoon to sunset any time of year.

How: The ‘green spot’ is 5.0 kilometres (3.1 miles) Banff and Mount
Rundle from the
up the Mount Norquay Scenic Drive. A parking ‘green spot’
area with a stone wall will signal your arrival. With (Canon EOS-1ds,
Canon 24-85mm
a short telephoto lens (e.g. 35-135mm) you can lens at 35mm,
photograph an aerial view of the town of Banff 0.4s at f22, Singh-
Ray LB Warming
with Mount Rundle and the Goat Range in the Polarizer, Singh-
background, all without breaking a sweat, straining Ray 2-stop hard-
edge grad filter)

92 93
Vermilion Lakes water often calms to a mirror-like finish making
perfect reflection shots possible. Early mornings

Scenic Drive are also good for reflection shots, and often after
a cool evening, ground fog or mist will linger
Where: The chain of three Vermilion Lakes is to add drama to the scene. Even mid-day can
found on the south side of the Vermilion Lakes be productive for photographers especially as
Road. To get there from downtown Banff, take the sky begins to load up with the big, white,
Lynx Street north past the hospital to the Mount puffy cumulus clouds that are so common in the
Norquay Road and turn left just before the Trans spring and summer. In winter, pockets of water
Canada overpass at the west edge of town. stay ice-free due to warm underground springs
Access from the Trans Canada is from the western providing crystalline-edged reflecting pools
interchange into Banff (turn left and then an and exciting image possibilities. Often when
immediate right once you cross the overpass). As photographing the lakes, I’ll arrive at dawn and
soon as you turn onto the Vermilion Lakes Scenic photograph to dusk, stopping only at mid-day for
Drive set your odometer so you can find some of a hearty lunch in Banff.
the great locations listed below.

GPS 51 11' 09.1"N 115 34' 57.2"W

for the start of the scenic drive

When: This is one of those rare spots that looks

good all times of the day and in any season.

How: The three Vermilion Lakes run east to west

and photography is done from the north shoreline
giving dramatic sidelight to the background peaks The third Vermilion Lake
at both sunrise and sunset. Most photographers (Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 2s at f11,
Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
prefer evening light as the sun paints warm light
on the western face of wedge-shaped Mount
Rundle. About an hour or two before sunset, the

94 95
 There are as many approaches to photographing
the Vermilion Lakes as there are photographers; I
recommend spending a few hours just scouting the
shoreline of each of the three lakes. This is easily
done as the Vermilion Lake Road hugs the north
shore of all three lakes. Although there are many
‘classic’ viewpoints (see the location list below), the
shorelines here are so varied that it’s easy to find a
spot that appeals to your individual tastes.

Because the Vermilion Lakes are one of the most

famous photographic icons in the Canadian
Rockies, and they are so close to town, expect to
share your space with plenty of other tourists and
photographers (except when shooting 5 a.m. June
sunrises!) Courtesy, respect, and common sense
should rule the day. Everyone has equal rights here.
I am always surprised by the cocky, arrogant, and
brazen behaviour of some photographers.

Nothing can spoil the beauty of a peaceful sunset

more than the strutting of a braggart who dishes
out unsolicited photographic advice to everyone
within earshot yet never takes a photo himself (yes,
it always seems to be a ‘him’!). When shooting
with other folks around, follow the Golden Rule
and always be conscious of how your actions and
behaviour will affect the experience of others.

Mount Rundle at sunset in March from the second Vermilion Lake

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 17-40mm lens at 40mm, 1/4s at f13,
96 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) 97
Location Summary are common residents and bald eagles are often
spotted. In summer the best light is at sunset but

for the Vermilion Lakes sunrise can be spectacular if there are clouds to
under light. In late October or early November the

Scenic Drive first Vermilion Lake freezes over to a clear sheen

where you can skate over the glass-like surface
Fenland Loop peering at the shallow lake bottom. Once the
Kilometre 0.5 (0.3 miles). snow begins to accumulate, this short window of
GPS 51 11' 10.0"N 115 35' 19.9"W Zamboni-free skating ends. The lake is then just
There is access to the Fenland loop via a trail on a flat field of snow that is boring for photography
the left side of the road that crosses a foot bridge. unless a big bull elk wanders into the scene or
This location was already discussed in the town of – better yet! – someone builds an igloo over the
Banff location list. Christmas holidays!

First Vermilion Lake Parking Lot

Kilometre 0.8 (0.5 miles).
GPS 51 11' 03.7"N 115 35' 32.5"W
This is the best place to park for an exploration
of the first Vermilion Lake. In May and September
when water levels are low this lake often looks
pretty grungy. I prefer to make photos here in mid-
summer when the water levels fill the shallow basin
for nicer reflection images

First Vermilion Lake Dock

Kilometre 1.0 (mile 0.6).
GPS 51 11' 01.9"N 115 35' 41.3"W
For most tourists this is a fine spot to sit and have
a picnic lunch and watch the birdlife. Ospreys
nest on the opposite shore, herons and ducks The dock at the first Vermilion Lake in summer
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, f16, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)

98 99
 Igloo on the fist Vermilion Lake in December
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 238s at f6.3,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

The Skeleton Trees

Kilometre 1.2 (mile 0.75).
GPS 51 11' 00.9"N 115 35' 52.0"W
A small stream runs along the road and connects
the first and second Vermilion Lakes. There is a
patch of dead snags that are a striking photogenic
addition to images made here. Often you’ll see
an eagle, osprey or raven perched on one of the
snags. This place is best May through October in
the late afternoon to sunset.

Mount Rundle and the skeleton trees in summer

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 32mm, 1s at f18,
100 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop hard-edge grad filter) 101
 Second Vermilion Lake Dock
Kilometre 1.7 (mile 1.1).
GPS 51 10' 53.8"N 115 36' 12.9"W
The second Vermilion Lake is a favourite spot for
many photographers either here from the dock or
200 metres up the road at the park bench. Again,
best light is sunset in summer and both sunrise
and sunset in winter. My favourite spot especially
in winter is 300 metres further up the road right at
the bend. Here, an open pool of water lingers for
perfect reflections with a foreground of feathered
ice. In the summer, if there are clouds at sunrise
but with a crack of clear sky below, then I’ll head
here as hoping for a big dramatic show of light.

Sunrise over Tunnel Mountain from the second Vermilion Lake

(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 150mm lens, f11, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
Mount Rundle at sunset in February from the second Vermilion Lake
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, f22, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer,
102 Singh-Ray 2-stop hard edge grad filter, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film) 103
 The second Vermilion lake at the tree stumps
(Fuji G617 panorama camera, f22, Singh-Ray Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film) The Tree Stumps
Kilometer 2.2 (mile 1.4).
GPS 51 10' 45.1"N 115 36' 34.4"W
Look down on the left side of the road for a cluster
of tree stumps in a small pool of water. These
stumps make for interesting foregrounds especially
when the water is higher in summer or during early
winter before the water completely freezes over.
If you walk past the stumps you’ll find an open
curved channel of water that is one of my favourite
locations especially in winter because the open
water creates frost-covered clumps of vegetation
and sinuous, curvy, ice-fringed shorelines.

104 105
 East End Third Vermilion Lake
Kilometre 3.6 (mile 2.2).
GPS 51 10' 37.6"N 115 37' 39.3"W
This parking lot gives you access to the shallow
and heavily vegetated shore of the third Vermilion
Lake. Most photographers only stop here to use
the outhouse but all along the marshy shore is a
great spot for birding.

Bird life is rich at the east end of the third Vermilion Lake
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 300mm, 1/160s at f4)
Second Vermilion Lake at the channel below the tree stumps
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TS-E lens, 13s at f11, Singh-Ray LB Warming
106 Polarizer, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter, Singh-Ray 5-stop ND filter) 107
 Third Vermilion Lake Dock
Kilometre 4.0 (mile 2.5).
GPS 51 10' 36.1"N 115 37' 53.8"W
The third Vermilion Lake is my favourite of the
three lakes. This lake is deeper than the other two
and rarely looks scruffy even at low water levels.
In short it’s the ‘beauty queen’ of the Vermilion
Lakes. I also like this lake because it is the most
sheltered of the three and, if the other two are
wind-ruffled, this one is often calm. A small warm
water spring passes under the road just 50 metres
west of the dock and into the lake. This spot (GPS
51 10' 36.3"N 115 37' 55.9"W) is a magical location
in winter where crystalline shorelines lead to open
water with steam rising in the cool air.

Herons at the old snag near the dock at the third Vermilion Lake
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 300mm lens, 1/1250s at f7.1)

The third Vermilion lake from the sheltered corner reflecting pool
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 1s at f16,
108 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) 109
 Two hundred metres further up the road at Osprey landing on snag
(Nikon D300, Nikon 200-400mm lens at 400mm, 1/6400s at f4.5)
kilometre 4.2 (2.6 miles) the road rises slightly photo courtesy of Hendrik Bösch - hendrikboesch@googlemail.com
and the lake lies below a small steep bank. This
spot (GPS 51 10' 35.6"N 115 38' 07.7"W) is the
most sheltered location along the entire length
of the Vermilion Lakes. If it is windy, I head here
where I am almost certain to get a small pool of
glass-like water. The road ends 100 metres from
this corner pool.

Mount Rundle reflected in the third Vermilion Lake

(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 300mm lens, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

110 111
 Tunnel Mountain, Mount Rundle and Sulphur Mountain
from the third Vermilion Lake in evening light

Photo Tip
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens, Singh-Ray LB
Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

Use Props to Spice

up Your Photos
Even though no two days are the same and no
two photographers are alike, most of the photos
we see from the Vermilion Lakes look similar. There
are many ways to make your photos look different
from everyone else’s, but one of the easiest is
to use props. I brought along a deck chair for a
day of photography at the Vermilion Lakes. I shot
the chair in various locations along the shore and
ended up with images that ‘invite’ the viewer into
the scene and that look a little different from the
many images we see from the same location. I
have also used a canoe at the lakes to provide a
compositional counterpoint to the natural scene. In
the photo, the viewer feels like they can step into
the boat and paddle into the scene. I often use
items like snowshoes, hiker’s feet, skis, a tent, a
backpack, or people to add foreground interest to
the grand scenic. Because the props have specific
functions, the resulting photos are more story-
telling and interesting to the viewer than straight
landscape photographs.

112 113
 Grizzly bear on the parkway

Bow Valley Parkway

(Nikon D300, 100-300mm lens at 300mm, 1/2000s at f4)
photo courtesy of Hendrik Bösch - hendrikboesch@googlemail.com

(Highway 1A)
The Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) begins
about 5.5 kilometres (3.4 miles) west of the west
interchange into Banff. Just follow the Trans
Canada Highway (Highway 1) west of Banff until
you see the exit for the Bow Valley Parkway. As
soon as you hit the off-ramp, set your odometer
and get ready for great photography!

The Bow Valley Parkway is amazing in any season,

any light, and any time. Do note from March 1
to June 25 there is a travel ban everyday from 6
p.m. to 9 a.m. on the east section of the road to
Johnston Canyon.

The Bow Valley Parkway is one of my favourites

drives in the Rockies. It is not full of big trophy
shots, but rather is conducive to slow thoughtful
photography. The slow speed limit of 60 kilometres
per hour and the low traffic volumes encourages
visual discovery simply because you are more apt
to actually see photographic opportunities than
you would be when cruising at 90 kilometres per
hour, bumper to bumper, on the Trans Canada
Highway. For the specifics of where, when and
how to make great photographs along the Bow
Valley Parkway just read on where I outline what I
like best about each location.
114 115
Fireside Picnic Area
Aspen trees at Fireside
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Sigma 120-400mm lens at 400mm, 1/5s at f11,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

Where: At kilometre 0.4 (mile 0.25) look for an

access road on the right side of the road that
leads to the trailhead of Edith and Cory Pass.

GPS 51 10' 16.3"N 115 39' 38.9"W

When: Any time but note the access road is

closed for the winter.

How: I really like this spot for its mixture of pine

and aspen trees and often stop here on overcast
days to make images of the forest. The trail to
Edith and Cory Pass is a strenuous 13 kilometre
(8 mile) loop recommended only for fit hikers.
It is well worth the effort though. For those less
fit or looking for a more casual walk with easier
photographic rewards just follow the trail to
where it splits and take the Cory Pass fork (left)
through a lovely aspen forest to a big grassy
knoll overlooking the Bow Valley (best in morning
and afternoon light especially in the autumn).

I also like the views along the Bow Valley

Parkway from near the Fireside access road.
Just cross the parkway and the railroad tracks
and you’ll be alongside the Bow River where
scenic photography is easy especially mornings
and evenings.

116
The Bow River at sunset in September from near the Fireside access road
(Canon EOS 1ds Mark II, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 1/25s at f16,
Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter)
Backswamp Viewpoint
Where: Kilometre 3.2 (mile 2.0).

GPS 51 10' 08.0"N 115 41' 45.1"W

When: Mornings and evenings any time of year.

How: This popular spot overlooks a vast

marshland and the Bow River with views to the
Sundance and Massive Ranges. Although a good
spot to stop and look for distant wildlife (especially
coyotes and wolves in winter), as a landscape
photo destination it falls short in my eyes. I have
seen many photographers working this spot, so
maybe I am missing something; your best bet is to
check it out for yourself. There is an alternate, and
in my opinion, a better viewpoint about 200 metres Spruce forest in December at Backswamp
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 24mm TS-E lens, 0.4s at f11,
farther west, just before the split in the road. Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

120 121
 Muleshoe Picnic Area
Where: A parking lot and picnic area on the left
side of the road at kilometre 5.6 (mile 3.5).

GPS 51 10' 49.9"N 115 43' 16.9"W

When: Any time but the parking lot is closed in

winter.

How: Overlooked by many photographers as just

another "picnic spot in the woods", Muleshoe
dishes out plentiful rewards for those who are
patient and observant. For big landscapes, hike
from the picnic grounds down across the railroad
tracks to the banks of the Bow River where the
river forms a big muleshoe curve. Follow the
riverbank right or left for scenes over the river to
Looking down on the muleshoe in the Bow River from the Muleshoe Trail
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 55mm lens, f16, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)
the distant peaks (best in the morning or evening).

Picture this: it’s overcast; the tall stand of black-

scarred, white-barked aspen trees at the picnic
site are worthy of a few frames of thoughtful
abstraction because the trees are scarred from elk
rasping the bark off the trunks to supplement their
meager food supplies of winter.

Beautiful! So, as you can imagine, Muleshoe is

a good spot to watch for elk all year round but
especially in the winter.

122 123
 Directly across the highway from the parking lot,
look for a small trailhead sign designating the
Muleshoe Trail. This seldom hiked trail climbs
through a 1993 Parks Canada prescribed burn,
and up a bare ridge where, if you turn left at the
top of the ridge you can connect with a parallel
ridge taking you back down to the picnic area in
a horseshoe-shaped (or was that a muleshoe-
shaped?) loop.

The Muleshoe Trail is usually snow free by late April

and not only gives you a fine aerial perspective
over the Bow Valley, but it also traverses through
charred and blackened trees, open wildflower
meadows, and clumps of aspen trees. As a bonus,
every time I have hiked here I have seen deer,
elk, and bighorn sheep, the latter happily sunning
themselves on the sunny slopes. I always end up
doing the same thing as the sheep.

Sitting in the sun, chewing my cud, I marvel at

how easy it was to leave the throbbing crowds of
Banff behind. But be careful – there is a crowd of
another kind here, the eight-legged variety. A hike Elk-scarred aspen trees from Muleshoe
up the Muleshoe Trail in the spring will net you (Holga camera, Fujicolor Reala 100 print film)
some unwanted little passengers – ticks. Be sure
to immediately remove the insects from your skin
and clothing as the ticks have the potential to carry
and transfer Rocky Mountain spotted fever.

124 125
Sawback Burn
Where: Kilometre 5.8 to 10.8 (mile 3.6 to 6.7) with
the best pull-off at kilometre 6.7 (mile 4.2).

GPS 51 11' 19.9"N 115 43' 38.3"W

When: Any time in any season but often best in

overcast light.

How: The parkway travels through a five-

kilometre (3.1 mile) section of a prescribed
burn started by Parks Canada in 1993. These
intentionally set fires help regenerate the meadows
and aspen stands that - due to previous and
outdated fire suppression policies - have been
slowly disappearing over the years. The benefit
to photographers is the creation of a stark and
graphic landscape of black, gray, white, and rust
tinged tree trunks set in an understory meadow of
lush green and colourful wildflowers like asters and
fireweed. On an overcast and calm day it is easy
for me to get lost for hours as I make photos of
the graphic shapes and colours to be found along
this section of the parkway. I admit that I rarely go
by this section without stopping to make photos.
I probably have enough images from this burn to
make a coffee-table photo book! Sawback Burn in fall colours
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 150mm lens, f22,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

126 127
 Sawback Burn in summer Sawback Burn in winter
(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 24-70mm lens at 35mm, f22, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film) (Canon Rebel XSi, Canon 70-200mm lens at 200mm, 1/40s at f13)
 scene still looks good while you are squinting, it
Photo Tip should look great recorded by the camera. If it

Squint Your Eyes doesn’t look so hot, then reconsider the lighting
(e.g. time of day), or try a different composition
where the distribution of shadow and light is more
Film and digital sensors see contrast differently
aesthetically pleasing.
than the human eye does. Where our eyes see
detail in both deep shadows and screaming
highlights, film and digital sensors see only blobs
of dark and light. Slide film and digital sensors
have a narrow latitude for exposure (the ability to
record detail in differing values of light), so contrast
is often a problem except in even, cloudy-day light.
Print film can hold more detail but it’s still not as
capable as our eyes. In the real world this creates
a problem. Where we see colourful flowers in the
shade under a tree, and puffy white clouds in the
sky, film and digital sensors will only see pure black
shadows and washed out skies. Somehow we
need to be able to ‘see like a camera’.

The answer is to squint your eyes. Go out on a

sunny day and squeeze your eyes nearly shut. Cameras love overcast days because the tonal range is recordable on film or digital sensors
What you see through the little slit is like a preview as shown here in this forest floor scene from the Sawback Burn
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 45mm lens, f22,
of how your camera will record the light. The Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome 50 Velvia film)
shadows will go black and the highlights will remain
bright. Now if you photograph this scene, the film
or digital sensor will give you an image looking
similar to the way you saw it through your squinty
eyes (sans the eyelashes, of course). So… if the
Sawback Picnic Area
Where: Kilometre 11.2 (mile 7.0).

GPS 51 12' 49.0"N 115 46' 06.8"W

When: Best on overcast days any time of year.

How: I like this stop for intimate forest details.

Here the forest is a mix of evergreen and
deciduous trees and the contrast can be striking
in soft subdued light. I especially like this area
after a fresh rain or snowfall.

Aspen and spruce after fresh snow in late fall

(Canon G9, 1.8s at f6.3)

132 133
Hillsdale Meadows
Where: Kilometre 12.2 (mile 7.6).

GPS 51 13' 27.2"N 115 50' 25.6"W

When: Any time.

How: Wide-open meadows with scattered

stands of aspen trees, all hemmed in by the
Sawback and Massive Ranges leave little to
challenge photographers. Show up in the
morning or evening,
screw on a polarizer
and shoot. Want
more? Sprinkle in the
golden fall colours
and a bugling bull
elk (third week in
September) and
you’ll have a cover
shot worthy of any
Hillsdale Meadows in fall
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III,
national outdoor
Canon 17mm TS-E lens, 1/6s at f11) magazine – that is,
if you remember
to shoot a vertical
composition! Also be sure to watch for Northern
Flickers that nest in cavities of the aspen trees.

Northern Flicker
(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 300mm lens, f5.6, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
134 135
 Hillsdale Meadows and the Sawback Range
(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 28-70mm lens at 35mm, f16,
Singh-Ray Polarizer, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
 Pilot Pond
Where: Kilometre 14.8 (mile 9.2).

GPS 51 13' 52.4"N 115 48' 45.3"W

When: Mornings May through September.

How: West of Hillsdale Meadows, the road splits

into two separate lanes for several kilometres. At
the end of this split (kilometre 16.8, mile 10.4),
make a U-turn and head back towards Banff.
Look for the parking area on the right about 1.5
kilometres (0.9 miles) up the road. Hidden in the
forest is a small lake where a short trail leads to an
open meadow above the lake (the right fork), or
Pilot Pond
down to the forested lakeshore, which is the left
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon 20mm lens, 1/13s at f13, fork. A lone peak, Pilot Mountain, stands sentinel
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
over Pilot Pond. The shoreline views are tight and
limited, so a wide-angle lens is a must if you want
to get it all in, but fine images are fairly easy at
sunrise or in mid-morning light.

138 139
Johnston Canyon
Where: Kilometre 18.0 (mile 11.2).

GPS 51 14' 41.4"N 115 50' 25.6"W

When: Best in overcast or shaded light in

any season.

How: Johnston Canyon is a cliffhanger, both

literally and figuratively. Much of the trail is a
suspended catwalk that hugs the sheer cliffs of
the canyon – that’s the literal part. Figuratively,
much like a TV cliffhanger,
where viewers must wait until
next week for the conclusion,
photographers, will wait, and
wait… and sometimes wait
until next week just to get the
shot. Why? Well, the crowds
are thick and the catwalk and
viewing platforms are thin.
Photographers with tripods
just get in the way, especially
The old gas pump at Johnston Canyon
(Holga camera, Fujicolor Reala at the viewing platforms at
100 print film) the Lower and Upper Falls
(a 1.1 and 2.7 kilometre hike
respectively). To be fair to other tourists, mostly
families, who come to see this circus-style trail
(complete with hanging metal catwalks, knurled
The upper falls at Johnston Canyon
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 24-85mm lens at 32mm, 8s at f13,
140 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer) 141
 trees, plunging cliffs, a tunnel, and swirling
cascades), photographers should wait until the
crowds disperse. For sparse crowds it’s best to
go early in the morning, before the sun lights up
the canyon, or later in the evening near sunset.
In the winter, the canyon is a fairyland of bizarre
frozen shapes with far fewer tourists and loads of
potential for unique photography. Be sure to bring
walking cleats or trail crampons for a
winter excursion.

The catwalk along Johnston Canyon

(Canon G11, 8s at f4.5)

Along Johnston Canyon

(Canon T2i, Sigma 17-50mm lens at 17mm, 8s at f16,
142 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer) 143
 Moose Meadows
Where: Kilometre 19.2 to 20.5 (mile 11.9 to 12.7).

GPS 51' 15 10.2"N 115 51' 02.3"W

to 51' 15 23.8"N 115 55' 00.4"W

When: Mornings and evenings in any season.

How: It’s highly unlikely you’ll see a moose here,

but you will see wide, shrub-filled meadows with
views south to Pilot and Copper Mountains. Best
light here is sunrise to mid-morning and sunsets
in the summer. In the fall, the meadows become
hued in a brilliant tapestry of warm colours cloaked
in frost as the night air dips below freezing.

Moose Meadow and Pilot Mountain

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon 24-70mm lens at 70mm, 1/4s at f11,
144 Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) 145
 Silverton Falls
Where: Kilometre 24.2 (mile 15).

GPS 51 24' 45.9"N 116 11' 19.0"W

When: Overcast days April through December.

How: Park at the Rockbound Lake trailhead

and hike 0.7 kilometres (0.4 miles) to Silverton
Falls. The falls are buried in a forested stand of
lodgepole pine and balsam fir. You’ll need to be a
contortionist to maneuver into position for a clear
shot of the falls. Half the fun is in the gymnastics,
so put on your spandex, do a few deep knee
bends, and see what you can score photographing
here. This spot is best in overcast light.

Winter ice at the base of Silverton Falls

(Canon G11, 1/80s at f3.5)

146 147
Castle Junction/Castle
Mountain Bridge
Where: Kilometre 24.5 (mile 15.2) for the Castle
Mountain Junction.

GPS 51 15' 58.7"N 115 55' 41.2"W for the bridge

Castle Mountain and the Castle Mountain Bridge

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 0.5s at f13,
Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)

The Bow River from below the Castle Mountain Bridge

148 (Canon EOS-1n, Canon 28-70mm lens, f22, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film) 149
 When: Sunset all year around, sunrise in winter. For further photo possibilities walk a short distance
up the Bow River to find Altrude Creek. Follow
How: Your destination is not the junction nor this creek upstream for intimate pools and eddies
Castle Mountain Village but rather the Castle that work well as foregrounds to Castle Mountain.
Mountain Bridge. To get there, turn left off the Bow Alternatively, you can head under the bridge and
Valley Parkway and then follow the road west for walk down river a short distance for views east
0.7 kilometres (0.4 miles) to the Castle Mountain to the Sawback and Massive Ranges. In short,
Bridge. Park in the small lot on the left side of the photography is easy here; if you can’t make great
road just before the bridge; hike over the bridge, shots from this spot, then maybe you need to take
and immediately turn right and walk down to the up a new hobby!
fence. The gate is usually unlocked; open the gate
and walk to the river (be sure to shut the gate
behind you).

Once on the shores of the river let your gaze soak

up one of the premiere photographic spots in the
Rockies. In the summer, Castle Mountain is side
lit later in the morning, it’s front lit all afternoon,
and then it’s side lit again at sunset. In winter, the
castellated peaks are side lit at sunrise and front
lit at sunset. Great shots can be had at any of
these times, but I prefer sunset in the summer and
sunrise in the winter. Pay attention to the osprey
nest on top of the bridge. In spring and summer
you can easily get lovely images of the osprey with
a telephoto lens.

Castle Mountain at sunset in winter

(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 35mm lens,
Singh-Ray 3-stop hard-edge grad, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

150 151
 The Bow River from below the Castle Mountain Bridge
(Fuji G617 panoramic camera, f22, Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer,
Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
 Storm Mountain
Viewpoint
Where: The viewpoint is on the left side of the
road at kilometre 26.8 (mile 16.7).

GPS 51 16' 55.2"N 115 56' 36.5"N

When: Mornings and evenings (the viewpoint is

closed in the winter).

How: Although I am not a big fan of this viewpoint

west to Boom and Storm Mountains, I have seen
a number of fine images produced here by other
photographers. It all comes down to being here
when the elements of light and atmospheric
conditions converge to turn the otherwise
The stop sign at the Storm Mountain Viewpoint mundane (my opinion) into the extraordinary. Your
(Canon G11, 1/1250s at f5.6)
best chances for this to happen are in the morning
or evening. Good luck with the light!

154 155
 Castle Internment Camp
Where: Kilometre 28.8 (mile 17.9).

GPS 51 17' 28.8"N 115 58' 04.1"W

When: Overcast light and at any time of the year.

How: This stop has an interpretive monument

about the sad practice of internment. Although
the history lesson here is important, I find this stop
inspiring for landscape photography because I like
the dead trees in the pool of water by the road. But
it just might be me. Whenever I stop here on photo
tours, few photographers seem inspired. I am
usually the only one photographing what I think is a
great location! That’s OK; I guess I will always have
this place all to myself!

The snags at the Internment Camp

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 90mm lens, 1/4s at f11,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)

156 157
Lodgepole Road Baker Creek Picnic Area
Where: Kilometre 34.4 (mile 21.4). Where: Picnic area on the right
side of the road at kilometre 38.9
GPS 51 19' 05.2"N 116 01' 33.0"W (mile 24.2).

When: Best in overcast light in any season. GPS 51 20' 55.4"N 116 03' 55.1"W

How: At this location the Bow Valley Parkway and When: Sunrise and sunset and
the surrounding lodgepole pine forest are both overcast days year round.
arrow straight. I like to make graphic compositions
here using the strong lines in the scene. This spot How: I like to explore Baker Creek
looks really nice after a fresh snowfall. both upstream and downstream.
On overcast days this delightful
little creek has lots to offer
from intimate details to broader
landscapes. I like to follow the
creek downstream to the Bow
River (you’ll need to cross the
railroad tracks) where there are big
views that are wonderful at sunrise
and sunset. Watch for bears while The Bow River at Baker Creek
(Linhof 6x12 panoramic camera, f22,
hiking in this area because this is a Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)
favourite spot for these big bruins!

Lodgepole pine forest along the Bow Valley Parkway

(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon70-200mm lens at 168mm, 1/13s at f16)

158 159
Train crossing the bridge over Baker Creek
(Sigma DP1x, 1/6s at f11)
What about the Morant’s Curve
Trans Canada? Where: Kilometre 46.3 (mile 28.7).

You might be wondering why I haven’t covered GPS 51 23' 58.8"N 116 07' 41.0"W
any photo stops along the Trans Canada Highway
(Highway 1) between Banff and Lake Louise. When: Any time.

The traffic The reason is simple: safety. The Trans How: This viewpoint is one made famous by
Canada Highway is always busy with Nicholas Morant, a
scares me! vehicles in a rush to get somewhere else. CPR photographer
It simply doesn’t make sense to have from the thirties and
folks slowing down, checking their GPS and trying forties. The high peaks
to find a specific spot that I have recommended on of the Bow Range, an
a super busy highway! My lawyer is not keen on S-curve in the railroad
me getting sued! tracks, an eastbound
train, and good light are
If you’re interested in shooting pictures ‘in the fast the requirements for
lane’ of the Trans Canada, just watch for any spot this classic photo stop. Morant’s Curve looking northwest
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 1/60s at f5.6,
where the Bow River edges up to the westbound The railroad tracks Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
lane and pull over onto the shoulder of the road curve from north-south
and walk to the river’s edge for potential images. to east-west, so the
Bow Range will be lit by warm light at sunrise, side
Like most spots in the mountains, mornings and lit by mid-day, and backlit at sunset. Choose your
evenings offer the best light for photography. The favourite type of light, set up your composition,
Trans Canada is frustrating because the ditch is and wait for the whistle of a distant train. The Bow
fenced on both sides of the highway and much of Valley Parkway ends at kilometre 50.5 (mile 31.4).
the good scenery is difficult to get to. Personally,
I have never exposed a single image along this
section of highway because there are so many
better, less busy, more peaceful spots in the park.
163
Morant’s Curve looking southeast
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark II, Canon TS-E 45mm lens, 1/100s at f4.5
Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer)
Lake Louise & Vicinity
The Lake Louise area is a world-renowned
destination and in this section I’ll share with you a
few of my favourite photo stops here. But first, let’s
get the main attraction out of the way!

Lake Louise
Where: A well-marked interchange off the Trans
Canada Highway will take you into the village of
Lake Louise. From the off-ramp, turn left and then
follow the main road for 4.3 kilometres (2.7 miles)
where you will be deposited into a vast parking lot
near the shores of Lake Louise.

GPS 51 24' 59.8"N 116 12' 50.9"W for the parking lot

When: Lake Louise is usually ice free from late

May until well into October or November. The
best light is from sunrise to mid-day. Winter
photography is also good here because there is
open water at the outlet of Lake Louise that is
perfect for reflections.

How: Lake Louise is probably the most

photographed landscape in Canada second only
to Niagara Falls. Day after day, season-to-season, Winter dusk at Lake Louise
(Mamiya 645 Pro TL, Mamiya 55mm lens, f16, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)
photographers line up along the eastern shore of

166 167
 Lake Louise hoping to capture the sweet morning
light as it paints warm hues on Mount Victoria in
the background. Even during 5 a.m. June sunrises,
bleary-eyed, bedraggled hotel guests shuffle out
in slippers and bathrobes to snap alpenglow on
the peaks reflecting in the calm waters of Lake
Louise. You’ll see tourists with
compact point-n-shoot cameras,
flashes popping, as the cameras
try in vain to ‘auto-expose’ the
huge shadowed lake. The ‘happy
snappers’ are shooting alongside
professional photographers who
have packs full of gear costing
in excess of what most visitors
pay for their entire vacation. For
me, it’s more fun people watching
than actually shooting! If you
want solitude you’re better off
elsewhere, but if you want the
Lake Louise skaters
ultimate Rockies postcard, Lake (Canon EOS-1ds Mark II Canon
Louise at sunrise should be high TS-E 45mm lens, 1/2500s at f6.3)
on your list of priorities.

There seem to be three favourite spots for most

photographers. The outlet stream, the shoreline
between the outlet stream and the boat dock,
and the boat dock itself. If you just want a simple
reflection shot of Mount Victoria, it really doesn’t
matter where on the shore you shoot from. But if
Lake Louise at sunrise
(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, f22, Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)
168 169
 you want flowing water, jumbled rocks, or canoes You’ll need to use grad filters or the digital merging
as a foreground, then one of the spots mentioned of highlight and shadow exposures to capture the
above is a must. Fortunately, there is much full range of tones that happens in a Lake Louise
elbowroom here and many photographers find sunrise. Otherwise part of your scene will be
the camaraderie of sunrise shooting companions brightly overexposed or darkly underexposed.
addictive. Here advanced photographers help
novices with advice on how to shoot the scene There are also numerous fantastic hikes in the Lake
and other good spots to try, and often friendships Louise area. Be sure to do at least the following
develop. Best of all, the location is close to coffee jaunts, Lake Agnes (best in the morning), The Plain
and snacks so it is easy to munch and sip away of Six Glaciers (any time) and the Saddleback Trail
while the incredible light plays over the scene. (best mornings and late afternoons in September).
To get more details and distances for these hikes
You will need some technical expertise if you wish visit the Parks Canada Information Centre in Lake
to properly expose sunrise bathing the brightly lit Louise Village.
peaks while the lake is still plunged in shadow.

Lake Louise in an early September snow

(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, f11, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)

170 171
 Victoria Glacier
(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 300mm lens, f11,
Fujichrome Velvia 50 slide film)

The Saddleback in September

(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, f16,
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)
Lake Agnes at sunrise
(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 1/20s at f16,
Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter) 173
 Photo Tip
Kneeling or Standing?
At Lake Louise, photographers adopt one of two
postures for shooting: kneeling or standing. Which
is better? The short answer is neither. The long
answer is a tripod, in either position, is always the
best option. The alpenglow, as impressive as it is,
on Mount Victoria, is still relatively dim. Shots of
the lake and distant peaks will invariably be blurry
if you shoot hand-held. A tripod not only improves
image sharpness, but it allows you to carefully fine-
tune your composition and use small apertures
(e.g. f16 or f22) for maximum depth-of-field. As
well it will hold your camera in position as you wait
for the light to go from good to great, or leave you
free to sip that freshly brewed latte.

Lake Louise in mid May at sunrise

(Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 0.8s at f20, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter)

174
Moraine Lake Get up to the lake for sunrise and often you will be
rewarded with dramatic orange light sweeping the
tops of the Wenkchemna Peaks. You’ll need to be
Where: Moraine Lake is accessible along a well-
on location before 5:30 a.m. in June or July if you
marked road two kilometres (1.2 miles) west of
want to capture this early
Lake Louise Village. The road is open to vehicle
morning light show. As well,
traffic from late May through early October. In
you’ll need to put into play
winter the road is a groomed ski trail.
all your technical expertise
GPS 51 24' 46.5"N 116 11' 27.6"W to pull off a usable shot
for the access road at sunrise. The contrast
between the brightly lit
When: The premiere season for photography at peaks, the dark conifers,
Moraine Lake is early summer (mid-June through and the shadowed lake is
July) when the sun rises furthest to the north and extreme and beyond the
nicely lights up the northeast facing Wenkchemna ability of either film or digital
Peaks. As well, the lake will be full of water from sensors to record it all.
the melting snow pack, yet the peaks will still be
frosted with a dusting of snow. Another favourite vantage
point is from the canoe
How: The ‘classic’ photo of Moraine Lake is taken dock where you can fill the
from the ‘rock pile’, a large moraine of boulders foreground with repeating
Canoes at Moraine Lake
at the northeast end of the lake near the parking patterns and colours of (Canon EOS-1ds, Canon 20mm lens, 2s at f22,
rental canoes. Once the Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray
lot. This view gives a panoramic sweep of the 2-stop hard-edge grad filter)
lake and the Wenkchemna Peaks. If you wait until sun strikes the lake and the
mid-morning when the sun rises high enough to canoes, put on a polarizing
light the lake along with the peaks, you’ll get that filter to help saturate the colours in the scene
famous blue-sky, emerald lake image so commonly further. When the boathouse opens, get a friend or
depicted in calendars, postcards, and on the sides family member to paddle out on the lake for some
of rented motor homes. nice images of a red or yellow canoe set against a
robin’s egg blue lake.

176 177
 If you’re looking for another foreground option, try
incorporating the outlet stream of Moraine Lake
into your composition. Here the water cascading
over jumbled boulders provides a fluid dynamic to
an otherwise static portrayal of the lake. Exposure
times longer than 1/15 of a second will ensure that
the moving water takes on a wispy appearance in
the final photo.

After photographing sunrise I’ll often walk along

the lakeshore trail to the far end of the lake where
a delightful inlet stream rushes into Moraine Lake.
This spot is less visited by photographers and
you’ll likely be alone especially if you manage to
get here for sunrise.

Shoreline details
The inlet stream at the far end of Moraine Lake (Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 90mm, 1.6s at f16,
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 1/4s at f16, Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer)
178 Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer) 179
 Wherever you decide to photograph at Moraine
Lake, the scenery will demand an all-inclusive
treatment. In 35mm format the best bet is a lens in
the 17 to 24mm range. Anything longer and you’ll
miss parts of the vista. Longer lenses are useful,
however, for detail shots and abstractions of the
landscape. But for those classic, ‘near foreground,
distant background’ images, a wide-angle lens set
at f16 of f22 is mandatory.

Larch Valley in a September snow

(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 20mm lens, f16, Singh-Ray 3-stop soft-edge grad filter)

If you’re into hiking, there are two exciting and

classic hikes starting from Moraine Lake. The first
one is the Larch Valley Trail hike which is a 3.0
kilometre (1.9 mile) lung-burner to lower Larch
Valley. This trail is a Mecca for photographers
and sightseers in September when the larch
trees turn brilliant golden. I like to do sunrise at
Moraine Lake and then power up to Larch Valley
early in the morning before the throngs of hikers
arrive. The Larch Valley Trail is also good late in
The Larch Valley Trail at sunrise in September
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 24mm lens, 0.8s at f16, the day. You’ll need both a wide angle zoom for
Singh-Ray LB Warming Polarizer, Singh-Ray 2-stop hard-edge grad filter) big landscapes as well as a telephoto lens for the

180 181
 wildlife you’ll encounter on the way. Be aware there
is sometimes a minimum group size of four hikers
if bear activity in the area is high. Watch for posted
warnings.

The second must-do hike for sunrise (or late in the

afternoon if you prefer) is to Consolation Lakes
which is an easy 3.0 kilometre (1.9 mile) hike to
Lower Consolation Lake along Babel Creek. The
trail leads to a lovely vista with lots of boulders,
moss, lichen and calm pools of water. Upper
Consolation Lake is tougher to get to because of
the need for ankle-busting rock hopping so stick
with the lower lake if you value your joints.

I like the Consolation Lakes Trail on overcast days

because the forest along the trail is enchanting
with shaded undergrowth and delicate flowers.
Babel Creek gives a lot of opportunities for creative
long exposure photography, and I often see
grouse and other forest birds along the trail. On
clear mornings and evenings, the peaks around
Consolation Lakes light up warm and inviting so
be sure not to linger too long in the forest if you’re
looking for a big mountain scene in good light.
Lower Consolation Lake and Mount Babel at sunrise
(Canon EOS-1ds Mark III, Canon TS-E 17mm lens, 1.4s at f11)

182 183
 Conclusion
Banff National Park has so much to offer nature
photographers. The truth is there is so much more
and many other locations than I have room to
mention here; what I have given you in this guide
are the must-do and iconic photography stops in
Canada’s oldest National Park. Enjoy your time
and happy shooting!

Early snow at Moraine Lake

(Canon EOS-1n, Canon 70-200mm lens, f11,
Fujichrome 50 Velvia slide film)

184 185
About Darwin
Darwin is one of Canada’s most widely published
landscape photographers and was honoured in
2008 as Travel Photographer of the Year.

Darwin is a columnist for Outdoor Photography

Canada magazine.

For plenty of tips, tricks, eBooks and

free articles on photography be sure to
visit http://www.oopoomo.com

Darwin on Vision Quest overlooking Abraham Lake in the Bighorn Wildlands

http://www.oopoomoo.com
 Dedication:

This eBook is for my grandparents, Buster

and Grace, who introduced me to the
Canadian Rockies at an early age.

Credits:

Thanks to Samantha Chrysanthou for her

input and contributions to this eBook.

Special thanks to Stephen Desroches for

his exceptional skills in the design of this
eBook and the oopoomoo website.

Publisher:

oopoomoo Inc.
All contents © Darwin Wiggett, 2011 unless
otherwise noted

Contact:

info@oopoomoo.com