Republic of the Philippines

Eastern Visayas State University

Tanauan Campus
Tanauan, Leyte

Related Crafts (Household Items with Hand & Machine Embroidery)

TECH – GFD 243

DEFINITION OF EMBROIDERY

Embroidery

 Embroidery is done for making a fabric beautiful with colorful designs with the help of
needle and threads. It may be used to embellished almost everything, from the smallest
handkerchief to big home furnishings like even curtains or bedcovers.
 It is an art to express creativity using different types of techniques, like beadwork, metal
threadwork, applique work, decorative threadwork, cutwork, patchwork, zardozi work,
etc. Embroidery is also known as ‘a painting with needle’.
 THE HISTORY OF EMBROIDERY
Embroidery, the art of decorating fabric with needle and thread, has woven its intricate patterns
through the fabric of human history. Embroidery, a timeless art form, has been an integral part of
human culture for millennia. The practice of adorning fabric with needle and thread dates back to
ancient civilizations, with earliest evidence found from Cro-Magnon days, around 30,000 BC.
Over centuries, it has evolved into a sophisticated art form, embraced by different cultures and
societies worldwide for its aesthetic, social, and symbolic significance.
Embroidery in Ancient Times
 Egypt: The art of embroidery was highly developed in ancient Egypt. The Egyptians
used linen as a base fabric, embroidering religious symbols and motifs of daily life with
colored wool or linen thread.
 China: Embroidered silk garments have been discovered in China dating back to the
Shang dynasty (16th - 11th century BC). The Chinese employed sophisticated techniques
such as satin stitch, split stitch, and seed stitch to create intricate motifs of dragons,
phoenixes, and other mythical creatures. They also pioneered the use of silk thread,
recognized globally for its luster and fine texture.

 Persia: Ancient Persians were known for their exquisite embroidery skills. They used a
variety of stitches, including stem stitch, chain stitch, and buttonhole stitch, to create
intricate floral and geometric patterns. Persian embroidery often featured gold and silver
threads, enhancing the richness of their designs.
Embroidery in the Middle Ages
 Eastern World
 During the Middle Ages, embroidery continued to flourish in the East,
particularly in the Islamic world. Here, embroidery was often used to adorn
religious textiles, such as prayer rugs and Quranic covers. The designs typically
included Islamic geometric patterns, arabesques, and calligraphy, all embroidered
with great precision and care.

 In India, the Mughal empire (1526-1857) saw a remarkable outburst of

embroidery artistry. The royal courts commissioned elaborate textiles
embroidered with gold and silver threads, pearls, and precious stones. The designs
often depicted scenes from Mughal court life, wildlife, and stylized floral motifs.
 Western World:
 In the West, the Middle Ages marked the rise of ecclesiastical or church
embroidery, also known as Opus Anglicanum. This was a style widely practiced
in England, known for its intricate detail, use of gold thread, and depiction of
biblical scenes and figures. These embroidered pieces were highly sought after by
both royal and religious institutions across Europe.

 Similarly, in France, the Bayeux Tapestry, a detailed embroidered cloth nearly 70

meters long, narrates the events leading up to the Norman conquest of England. It
is a testament to the narrative ability of embroidery during this period.
Embroidery during the Renaissance and Industrial Revolution
 Renaissance a period of artistic and intellectual rebirth, influenced embroidery in Europe
significantly. The introduction of printed patterns during this era allowed a wider
dissemination of designs, encouraging more people to take up the craft. The themes of
embroidery shifted from religious to secular, featuring mythological scenes, botanical
motifs, and emblematic designs. Italian and French schools of embroidery were
particularly renowned for their detailed work and innovative techniques.
  Industrial Revolution: The Industrial Revolution in the 19th century brought significant
changes to the world of embroidery. The invention of the embroidery machine, patented
by Alphonse Kursheedt, revolutionized the industry by allowing for mass production of
embroidered goods. This led to a democratization of embroidery, making it more
accessible and affordable to the general public.

Modern Embroidery
 In the modern era, embroidery continues to thrive, adapting to contemporary aesthetics
and integrating new technologies. Traditional techniques are still in practice, but they are
often combined with innovative approaches to create fresh, exciting designs.

 Current trends in embroidery include the use of 3D techniques, mixed media, and
freestyle embroidery. Designers are experimenting with a variety of materials, such as
metallic threads, beads, sequins, and even unconventional items like LED lights. Themes
are diverse, ranging from traditional floral and geometric motifs to abstract and
conceptual designs, often reflecting personal narratives or social issues.
The Evolution of Embroidery Techniques
The evolution of embroidery techniques is a testament to human creativity and
technological advancement. From the simple running stitch of ancient times to the complex
digitized designs of today, each period has contributed to the rich tapestry of embroidery
techniques.
Hand Embroidery: Hand embroidery began with basic stitches like the running stitch,
chain stitch, and satin stitch. The ancient Egyptians, for instance, mastered these stitches to
create intricate designs on their textiles. With time, more complex stitches were developed, such
as the split stitch, stem stitch, and French knots.
During the Middle Ages, the Opus Anglicanum style introduced the use of couching, a
technique where threads are laid on a surface and fastened with small stitches. The Renaissance
saw the introduction of blackwork, a style that uses black thread on a white background to create
geometric patterns.
Machine Embroidery: The advent of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century
marked a significant transition in the world of embroidery. Alphonse Kursheedt's invention of the
embroidery machine allowed for rapid, uniform stitching, revolutionizing the industry. However,
these machines were still operated manually.
It was only in the 20th century that fully automated machines were developed. These
machines used punched paper tapes to guide the design, a precursor to today's digital embroidery
machines.
Modern Techniques: Today, embroidery machines are computerized, capable of
executing intricate designs with precision and speed. Embroidery digitizing software converts
images into stitch files, which can be read by the machine. This technology has expanded the
possibilities of embroidery, allowing for complex, multi-colored designs to be produced on a
large scale.
Embroidery as a Symbol and its Cultural Significance
Embroidery, beyond its aesthetic appeal, has often served symbolic and cultural functions
in societies across time and space. The motifs, colors, and techniques used in embroidery often
carry specific meanings, reflecting the beliefs, traditions, and social structures of the culture it
belongs to.
In ancient Egypt, for example, embroidered motifs were often religious or symbolic in
nature, used to confer protection or denote status. Similarly, in medieval Europe, embroidered
church vestments and altar cloths featured biblical scenes and religious symbols, expressing
devotion and enhancing the sacredness of the liturgy.
In China, the art of embroidery was so esteemed that it was one of the 'Four Arts' that
Chinese women were expected to master. The intricacy of the embroidery reflected a woman's
diligence and virtue. Moreover, Chinese embroidery often featured symbols like the dragon and
phoenix, which represent power and renewal, respectively.
In indigenous cultures, such as the Hmong people of Southeast Asia, embroidery is an
important medium of storytelling and cultural preservation. The Hmong use a form of
embroidery known as "Paj Ntaub" (flower cloth) to depict their history and beliefs in a visual
narrative.

In modern times, embroidery continues to carry symbolic meanings. For example, in the
feminist art movement of the 20th century, embroidery was reclaimed as a form of women's art,
challenging the gendered distinction between craft and fine art. Today, many artists use
embroidery to comment on social and political issues, making it a powerful tool for personal
expression and activism.
Thus, embroidery is much more than decorative needlework; it is a cultural text,
conveying meanings and messages that extend beyond the surface of the cloth. Its cultural
significance lies in its capacity to express identity, narrate histories, and engage with larger
socio-cultural discourses.