The Crochet Pumpkin Gnome is the perfect option for both

Halloween and Fall Decor. Switch up the yarn colors to your liking to
fit your favorite season. The pattern also includes two di!erent styles
of shoes to choose from.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the
Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the
free pattern.

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The Inspiration
The idea for the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome has been on my mind for
some time now. Once I made the Witch Gnome
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-witch-gnome/) and Cat
Gnome (https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-cat-gnome/) I
knew that I would need a pumpkin too as part of the Halloween
Gnome group (along with a few more gnome ideas to come).

However, it wasn’t until I started making the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome

in “Halloween style” that I decided that I should also make a fall
option as well. The more you come to know my patterns the more
you’ll know that I think options are fun and often include them in my
patterns, so really I couldn’t resist.

The changes are pretty basic, mostly the selection of color used, but
you will also find two di!erent shoe options to choose from. One is a
pointy-toe option that you will be familiar with if you’ve made the
Witch Gnome or the Leprechaun Gnome. The other is more boot-like.
I felt like this option was better for the Fall Pumpkin version of the
Gnome, but you make the choice to your liking. Happy Crocheting!

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These Patterns May Also Be of
Interest!

Witch Gnome (https://www.jenhayescreations.com/fall-

Fall Harvest Pumpkins Cat Gnome
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-
harvest-crochet-
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet- (https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/fall-
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-
witch-gnome/) harvest-crochet-pumpkins/) cat-gnome/)
witch-gnome/) pumpkins/) cat-gnome/)

The Yarn

The Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, like all the other gnomes currently
found on the blog, was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft
(http://shrsl.com/3eien). It is a well-known and quite widely available
yarn both online and in many craft stores.
It’s a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that has a bit of a sheen to it
and comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular
simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites,
stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more!
There is truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn
(http://shrsl.com/3eien)is that it can have a tendency to split.
Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started
using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the
yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it
has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making
amigurumi.

In this design, I feel that color is really what makes the chosen
Crochet Pumpkin Gnome come to life. For the fall-like option, I used
browns and yellows. For the more Halloween-like gnome, I used deep
charcoals (black is another great option) and purple.

Really, I think it’s the style along with the color of the shoe that pulls
each of the options together. Prefer the pointy shoe on the fall
gnome? If you make it in brown with orange or yellow laces this could
be cute too. I’m excited to see what choices you’ll make.

Substitutions
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work
well for making the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome but note that due to
variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also
note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the
thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.
If a cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. In the images,
you’ll see miniature Crochet Pumpkin Gnomes in each style. They
were made using size 10 cotton crochet thread and a size 1.5 mm
crochet hook.

Additional-sized yarns have not been tested, but should also likely
work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments
are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making

the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social
media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations
to share!

The Pattern

Di!culty
Intermediate

Materials
 Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour
(https://amzn.to/2rDNvhW))
Stitch Marker(s) (https://amzn.to/2PEsTQe)
Scissors (https://amzn.to/45HiwBW)
Stu#ng (https://amzn.to/2PGSecp)
Pins (https://amzn.to/2LhnCxd)
Tapestry Needle (https://amzn.to/2PEoYCS)
Sewing Thread (https://amzn.to/4726m7N)(to match or contrast
button)
½ inch/12 mm button (https://amzn.to/3tKxNF1)
Doll Needle (at minimum 3.25 inches/8.3 cm in length)
(https://amzn.to/492gDmf)
Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (https://amzn.to/3JrOcjI) (optional)
Chopstick (https://amzn.to/3QR7xAp), dowel, or something
similar to help with stu#ng small parts
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (http://shrsl.com/3eien)
(worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g),
Colors include: Autumn Maize, Bone, O! White, Pistachio,
Pumpkin, Purple, Sunshine, Taupe
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers
(http://shrsl.com/3eien) (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250
yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Colors include: Charcoal Heather

There are two variations of the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome to

choose from. The approximate yarn usage and color code for
each is noted below.
Halloween Crochet Pumpkin Gnome (charcoal hat) – Color (A)
Bone, used approx. 16 yds/15 m, Color (B) Pumpkin, used approx. 89
yds/81 m, Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 120 yds/110 m,
Color (D) O! White, used approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (E) Purple, used
approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (F) Sunshine, used approx. 10 yds/9 m,
Color (G) Pistachio, used approx. 10 yds/9 m
Fall Crochet Pumpkin Gnome (yellow hat) – Color (A) Bone, used
approx. 16 yds/15 m, Color (B) Pumpkin, used approx. 89 yds/81 m,
Color (C) Taupe, used approx. 58 yds/53 m, Color (D) O! White, used
approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (E) Autumn Maize, used approx. 74 yds/68
m, Color (F) Sunshine, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (G) Pistachio,
used approx. 10 yds/9 m

Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the Crochet
Pumpkin Gnome’s body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in
diameter.

Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Crochet Pumpkin
Gnome measures approximately 11 inches (28 cm) from the bottom
of the foot to the top of the hat in a bent position and approximately
16 inches (40 cm) with the hat standing straight up.

Design Notes
The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be
helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the
round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for
completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided
throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step
of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the
pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip
stitch to help minimize the stair-step/jogging that occurs with
color change. These sl sts are written into the pattern (it counts
as the first st and should be worked into in the following round).
 A regular sc can be substituted if desired.
The miniature Crochet Pumpkin Gnome in the images was
made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10
crochet thread. Changes in the pattern include: switching the 15
mm button (optional) for a 6mm button. It measures
approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) tall with the tip of the hat
standing straight up. Note that unless tacked down this hat is not
likely to stay in a folded-over position.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used
back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside
of a ch
BLO – work in the back loops only
bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
ch – chain
FL – front loop
FLO – work in the front loop only
invisible finish (https://www.jenhayescreations.com/how-to-
make-an-invisible-join-and-invisible-finish-when-working-in-
joined-rounds/)
MR – magic ring (aka. magic circle, adjustable ring)
picot
We use (described
cookies below
to ensure that we under
give you the bestspecial
experiencestitches)
on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assum
that you are happy with it.
Rnd(s) – round(s)
Row(s) – row(s) OK

sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
(use the invisible decrease unless directed otherwise)
sl st – slip stitch
standing sc – standing single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
tr – treble crochet
[ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as
many times as directed
 Some hand stitching

Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in this
pattern.

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,

2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops
on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops
on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four
loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

Picot

To create a picot

1. Ch2,
2. Sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. (picot
complete)

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Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain
 from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten o!.
Firmly stu! and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

Hand and Arm

Make 2
JEnHlaveSCrEaTIoNS.coM

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain
from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
 Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts.
(10sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts)

Firmly stu! and shape the hand. Leave the rest of the arm unstu!ed
so it will lie flatter against the body.

Switch to Color (C)

>Design Tip: In the Rnds to follow the sleeves will be striped. To help
eliminate the jogging that occurs in the work when making stripes the
first st of the color change is worked as a sl st that counts as a st. If
preferred, this st can be changed to a regular sc. There is no need to
cut the yarn at the end of each round. Drop and pick up colors as
needed to make the color changes.

Rnd 8: In FLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and

throughout), sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next
4sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D)

Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D)

Rnd 14: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

 Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

Rnd 16: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked.
(3sts)
Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the
thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop
on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or
remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges together
across the top. (6sts)

Body

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain
from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [2sc in next st, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [2sc in next st, sc in the next st, in BLO: sc in the next st]
6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 2sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 3sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 5sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 9: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnd 10: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnd 11: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (66sts)
Rnd 12: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 9sts, in BLO: sc in the next
st] 6 times. (72sts)
Rnd 13: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts, in BLO: sc in the
next st] 6 times. (78sts)
Rnds 14-21: [Sc in the next 12sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6
times. (78sts for 8 Rnds)
Rnd 22: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6
times. (72sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6
times. (66sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6
times. (60sts)
Rnd 25: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6
times. (54sts)
In the next Rnd, the bottom of the nose is added seamlessly to the
body.

Image: The bottom of the nose is joined seamlessly to the body (see Rnd
26).

Rnd 26: On the body: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in

the next st] 3 times, sc2tog, sc in the next st, now join the nose
to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook
into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of
the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from
the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through
the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to
join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the
body: sc in the next st, in BLO: sc in the next st, [in
in both loops:
sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 2 times.
(48sts)

In the next Rnd, the top of the nose is added seamlessly to the body.
Image: The top of the nose is joined seamlessly to the body (see Rnd 27).

Rnd 27: On the body: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, in BLO: sc in

the next st] 3 times, sc2tog, now join the top of the nose to
the body
body: [With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook
into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the right
side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the
next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the
piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull
through both loops] 4 times, on the body: sc in the next st, in
BLO: sc in the next st, [in
in both loops: sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts,
in BLO: sc in the next st] 2 times. (42sts)
 Image: Stitch markers hold the arms on the body in preparation to
seamlessly join them together.

In the next Rnd, the arms are added seamlessly to the body. In
preparation for adding the arms, mark sts 12, 17, 32, and 37 on the
body. These four stitch markers are temporary and can be removed
in Rnd 28 once the arms are joined to the body.

With thumbs facing forward

forward, and using the sts just marked,
clip the top of the arms to either side of the body in the 1st and
6th st of the arm.

>Design Note: From this point, the body is worked through both
loops.
Image: Hook inserted through the arm and the body to seamlessly join
them together (see Rnd 28).

Rnd 28: Sc in the next 11sts, now join the arm to the body:
with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook through
both the arm and the body: sc the arm and the body together for
6sts, on the body: sc in the next 14sts, now join the arm to
the body: with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook
through both the arm and the body: sc the arm and the body
together for 6sts, on the body: sc in the next 5sts. (42sts)
 Image: The nose and arms are seamlessly joined to the body (Rnds 1-28
completed).

Firmly stu! and shape the Pumpkin Body and continue to do so as

the pattern progresses.

Rnds 29-36: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 8 Rnds)

Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 41: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 42: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Sl st into the first st and fasten o! leaving a long tail to close up
the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only
through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure,
and weave in the tail.

Shaping the Pumpkin

 Image: Crochet Pumpkin Gnome’s body is shaped.

(Optional)

Cut a length of Color (C) as a contrast color option OR Color (B) to

blend into the pumpkin approx. 50+ inches/127+ cm long.

Image Left: A long doll needle is inserted behind a column of front loops
on the body in preparation for shaping. Image Right: The needle is inserted
through the body to reach the next column of front loop stitches on the
opposite side.

Using a threaded doll needle, anchor the yarn into the base of
the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome between Rnds 1 and 2 of the body,
 directly below one of the columns of FL sts, *run the yarn tail up
the body behind this entire column of FL sts, then insert the
needle into the Rnd above this column of FL sts through the body
to the column on the opposite side of the body, pull taught, then
run the needle down the body behind this entire column of FL
sts, pull taught again, insert the needle between Rnds 1 and 2 at
the base of the column just stitched and come out between Rnd
1 and 2 of another unworked column of FL sts, Repeat from *
until all of the columns have been stitched and pulled taught,
secure the yarn and weave in the end.

Shoes
There are two shoe options for the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, a boot
pictured on the more Fall-looking Pumpkin Gnome and a pointed
shoe pictured on the more Halloween-looking Pumpkin Gnome.
Either can be used, but only one set is needed.

Boot and Leg (One Piece) – Pictured on the Fall Pumpkin

Gnome
Make 2

Using Color (C)

The boots start by working on both sides of the ch.

Ch 10
Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch
from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next
7sts, 4sc in the next st (corner rounded and the first st on the
other side of the chain worked), working down the other side
of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc
in the next 4sts, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the
next st. (28sts)
Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc
in the next st] 2 times, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2
times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO: Sc in each st around (34sts)
Rnd 5-6: Sc in each st around. (34sts for 2 Rnds)
 Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times,
[sc2tog] 2 times, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the
next 6sts. (28sts)
Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2
times, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the next
6sts. (22sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts.
(17sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in
the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stu! and shape the boot and continue to do so as the pattern
progresses.

Rnd 11-14: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 4 Rnds)

Making the Leg

Image: Stitch marker (right, in teal) holding the working loop of the boot.
Stitch marker (left, in orange) marks the first st of the leg in Rnd 15 (Rnds 1-
15 completed).
Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the boot so it
can’t unravel. This will be returned to momentarily.

Using Color (D) and starting with a standing sc

Rnd 15: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (15sts)

Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)

Add additional stu#ng up to the top of the boot but leave the leg
unstu!ed as the pattern progresses.

Return to the Working Loop for the Boot

Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the leg so it can’t
unravel. This will be returned to momentarily.

Return to working on the boot (Color C), using the front loops of Rnd
14.

Working in the FLO: Sl st in each st around. (15sts)

Fasten o! using the invisible finish
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/how-to-make-an-invisible-
join-and-invisible-finish-when-working-in-joined-rounds/).

Return to the Working Loop for the Leg

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between

Color (D) and Color (C). The color changes (noted in bold when they
occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the
back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made,
if necessary, to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the
front of the leg.
>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each
round. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Add additional stu#ng up to the top of the boot but leave the leg
unstu!ed as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 17: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st
(counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in
the next 10sts. (12sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 23: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 31: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
 Rnd
Rnd 34:
34: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 35:
35: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 36:
36: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 37:
37: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked.
(3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg
in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the
needed position.
Cut Color
Color (C)
(C) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat
so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing
forwards and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
Fasten o! leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Pointed
Pointed Shoe and Leg (One
(One Piece)
Piece) –– Pictured
Pictured on
on the
the Halloween
Halloween
Pumpkin
Pumpkin Gnome
Gnome
Using Color (C)

>Design
>Design Note:
Note: The starting stitch will change several times while
making the shoe. When a new starting point is noted the other stitch
marker can be removed.

Rnd
Rnd 1:
1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd
Rnd 11 alternative:
alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain
from hook. (6sts)
Rnd
Rnd 2:
2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnds
Rnds 3-6:
3-6: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 4 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 7:
7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st,
[sc2tog] 2 times. (9sts)
Rnd
Rnd 8:
8: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next st.
(13sts)
Rnd
Rnd 9:
9: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
Rnd
Rnd 10:
10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
Rnd
Rnd 11:
11: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked.
(3sts)
 Images:
Images: The side and top view of the shoe with Rnd 1-11 and Row 1-11
completed.

The next portion of the shoe is worked in rows. The new starting
stitch becomes the first st of Row 1. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each
row.

>Design
>Design Tip:
Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

Row
Row 1:
1: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
Row
Row 2:
2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st.
(8sts)
Rows
Rows 3-5: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 3 Rows)
Row
Row 6:
6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st.
(10sts)
Row
Row 7:
7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
Row
Row 8:
8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
Row
Row 9:
9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
Row
Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
Row
Row 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)

The pattern will now return to working in Rnds to form the sides of
the shoe.

>Design
>Design Tip:
Tip: Use a regular decrease for the first stitch and then
return to working the invisible decrease.
 Image:
Image: Rnd 1-11 and Row 1-11 of the shoe completed. Text overlay gives
instructions and arrows to help with completing the next Rnd of stitches,
beginning to form the sides of the shoe.

Rnd
Rnd 1:
1: Turn, ch1, sc2tog (mark this st as the starting st), working
working
in
in the
the edges
edges of the
the rows:
rows: sc in the edge of Row 11 back to Row
1 for 11 total sts, working in
in the
the 88 unworked sts
sts across
across the
the
toe:
toe: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, working
working in
in the
the edges
edges of
of
the
the rows:
rows: sc in the edge of Row 1 back to Row 11 for 11 total sts.
(29sts)
Rnd
Rnd 2:
2: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc
in the next 9sts. (27sts)
Rnd
Rnd 3:
3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in
the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (26sts)
Rnd
Rnd 4:
4: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts.
(21sts)
Rnd
Rnd 5:
5: Sc in each st around. (21sts)

Firmly stu! and shape the shoe leaving the bent tip unstu!ed.
Continue to firmly stu! and shape the shoe as the pattern
progresses.
 Rnd
Rnd 6:
6: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in
the next 7sts. (19sts)
Rnd
Rnd 7:
7: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in
the next 5sts. (17sts)
Rnd
Rnd 8:
8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts.
(15sts)
Rnd
Rnd 9:
9: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
Rnd
Rnd 10:
10: Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)

Image:
Image: Side view of the completed pointed shoe.

Making
Making the
the Leg
Leg

>Design
>Design Note:
Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between
Color (D) and Color (C). The color changes (noted in bold when they
occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the
back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made,
if necessary, to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the
front of the leg.

>Design
>Design Tip:
Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each
round. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.
Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D)

Rnd
Rnd 11:
11: In
In BLO: Sl st in the first st, sc in the next 15sts. (16sts)
Rnd
Rnd 12:
12: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Add additional stu#ng up to the top of the shoe but leave the leg
unstu!ed as the pattern progresses.

Rnd
Rnd 13:
13: Sc in the next st, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (C): Sl st in the next st
(counts as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 14:
14: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 15:
15: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 16:
16: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 17:
17: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 18:
18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 19:
19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 20:
20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 21:
21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 22:
22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 23:
23: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 24:
24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 25:
25: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (C): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 26:
26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 27:
27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 28:
28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 29:
29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (C): Sl st in the next
 st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 30:
30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 31:
31: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch
Switch to
to Color
Color (D):
(D): Sl st in the next
st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 32:
32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 33:
33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked.
(3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg
in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the
needed position.
Cut Color
Color (C)
(C) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat
so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing
forwards and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
Fasten o! leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Making
Making the
the Tongue
Tongue of
of the
the Shoe
Shoe

Image:
Image: Hook inserted into the front of the shoe towards the top of the leg
to make the tongue of the shoe.

Using Color (C)

Looking at the front loops that were not worked in Rnd 11 when
making the boot, identify the 6sts centered at the front of the
boot/leg.

Row
Row 1:
1: Insert the hook in the far right of the 6sts determined
above from the bottom of the stitch up towards the leg. Starting
with a standing sc, sc in each st across. (6sts)
Row
Row 2:
2: Turn, ch 1, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the
last st. (8sts)
Row
Row 3:
3: Turn, ch 1, sl st in each st across. (8sts)
Fasten o! and weave in the ends.

Adding
Adding Laces
Laces to
to the
the Shoe
Optional – Make the shoes with or without laces.

Use a tapestry needle(s) and an extra long length (approx 25+

inches/64+ cm) of Color (E) to add laces to the shoes.

Left
Left Image:
Image: A tapestry needle is inserted into the toe of the shoe at about
Rnd 11 or 12. Image
Image Right:
Right: The yarn has been pulled through the toe of the
shoe and evened out in preparation for lacing.
 Image
Image Left:
Left: One crisscross made. Image
Image Right:
Right: Two crisscrosses made.

Suggested
Suggested Placement:
Placement: Using a single needle thread a length of yarn
through about Rnd 11-12 of the shoe (counted from the tip of the
shoe) about 4-5 sts in length. Even out the lengths on either side and
then with either a needle on each end or switching tails with a single
needle, add crisscrosses to the shoes as if lacing a pair of tennis
shoes. As pictured the Xs span over about 2 rows with a single row
between the Xs. (2 Xs made and tied)

Remove the needle(s) and tie the two ends in a bow like a pair of
regular shoelaces. If desired, double-knot the bow so it cannot
come undone.
 Image:
Image: Shoe laced and tied with one side of the laces trimmed.

To keep the yarn tail from unraveling, tie a small knot in the extra
lengths of yarn right above the desired length for the straight
piece. Then trim ⅛ inch (0.3 cm) or so below the knot.

Hat
Hat

Image:
Image: Hat folded over.

Using Color (C) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color (E)
for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

Rnd
Rnd 1:
1: 4sc in MR. (4sts)
Rnd
Rnd 11 alternative:
alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain
from hook. (4sts)
Rnd
Rnd 2:
2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (6sts)
Rnd
Rnd 3:
3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
Rnds
Rnds 4-7:
4-7: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 4 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 8:
8: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (9sts)
Rnd
Rnd 9:
9: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
Rnd
Rnd 10:
10: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts,
2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 11:
11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd
Rnd 12:
12: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnds
Rnds 13-18:
13-18: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 6 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 19:
19: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts,
2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
Rnds
Rnds 20-22:
20-22: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 23:
23: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
Rnds
Rnds 24-26:
24-26: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 3 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 27:
27: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts,
2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
Rnds
Rnds 28-29:
28-29: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 30:
30: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
Rnds
Rnds 31-32:
31-32: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 33:
33: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts,
2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
Rnd
Rnd 34:
34: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
Rnd
Rnd 35:
35: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
Rnd
Rnd 36:
36: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
Rnd
Rnd 37:
37: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next
10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
Rnds
Rnds 38-40:
38-40: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 3 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 41:
41: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
Rnds
Rnds 42-43:
42-43: Sc in each st around. (39sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd
Rnd 44:
44: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next
12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
Rnd
Rnd 45:
45: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
Rnd
Rnd 46:
46: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
Rnd
Rnd 47:
47: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
Rnd
Rnd 48:
48: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next
14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
Rnd
Rnd 49:
49: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
 Rnd
Rnd 50:
50: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)

Switch to Color (E) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color
(C) for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

Rnd
Rnd 51:
51: In
In FLO:
FLO: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the
next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
Rnd
Rnd 52:
52: In
In BLO: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times.
(57sts)
Rnd
Rnd 53:
53: In
In FLO:
FLO: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the
next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)

Image:
Image: Hat standing straight up.

In the next Rnds, the brim is added to the hat.

Switch to Color (C) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color
(E) for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

Rnd
Rnd 54:
54: In
In BLO: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the
next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 11 times, sc in the next 2sts. (72sts)
Rnd
Rnd 55:
55: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (84sts)
 Rnd
Rnd 56:
56: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts,
2sc in the next st] 11 times, sc in the next 3sts. (96sts)
Rnd
Rnd 57:
57: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (108sts)
Rnd
Rnd 58:
58: Sl st in each st around. (108sts)
Fasten o! using the invisible finish
(https://www.jenhayescreations.com/how-to-make-an-invisible-
join-and-invisible-finish-when-working-in-joined-rounds/) and
weave in the ends.

Flower
Flower

Make 1

Using Color (F)

Rnd
Rnd 1:
1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd
Rnd 11 alternative:
alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain
from hook. (6sts)
Rnd
Rnd 2:
2: 2sc in the next 5sts, sc in the next st. (11sts)
Rnd
Rnd 3:
3: [ch 3, (tr, p, tr) in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the next st] 5
times. (5 petal clusters)
 Fasten o! leaving a long tail for attaching the flower to the hat.
Weave in the starting tail.

Add
Add Curlicues
Curlicues to the
the Flower
Flower

Image:
Image: Flower with the curlicues added. A version with and without the
button.

Using Color (G)

 Image:
Image: Hook inserted into the back of the flower to make the curlicues.

Fasten onto the back of the flower at the base of Rnd 3 in any of
the sts between two of the petals.
Ch 25, working
working in the
the back
back bars:
bars: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the
hook and in each ch across, sl st back into the same st on the
flower, ch 21, working
working in
in the
the back
back bars:
bars: 2sc in the 2nd ch from
the hook and in each ch across, sl st back into the same st on the
flower. (2 curlicues)
Fasten o! and weave in the ends.
Optional: Stitch the button to the center of the flower.

Assembly
Assembly

Pin
Pin all
all the
the pieces
pieces together to determine
determine the desired
desired placement
placement
for
for the entire
entire Crochet
Crochet Pumpkin Gnome
Gnome and
and stitch
stitch securely
securely into
into
place
place using
using aa tapestry
tapestry needle.
needle.

General
General placement
placement and
and stitching
stitching suggestions:
suggestions:
Image:
Image: Legs pinned to the bottom of the body in preparation for stitching.

Legs:
Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Crochet Pumpkin
Gnome’s face and facing forward, pin the legs side by side with
the top of the leg at about the 2nd or 3rd Rnd at the front of the
body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and
along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of
the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
Flower:
Flower: Stitch the center of the flower securely onto the hat
band leaving the petals loose. Pictured it sits to the left of the
nose, but can be placed as desired. >Design
>Design Tip:
Tip: Use the flower
to cover up where the color changes are on the hat band, or
position them at the back of the hat.
Hat:
Hat: Pull the hat down over the body so it rests on the top of the
nose. If desired, invisibly tack the hat to the body in several
places along the hat band with a separate length of yarn in the
same color. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable. For a
scrunched hat push the hat down towards the body with the
palm of your hand and then make adjustments as needed until
the desired bend is achieved.