Fabric:
Fabric is a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibres, yarns, or fabrics, in any
Combination. Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of fibres by bonding, fusing or
Interlocking to make non-woven fabrics and felts.
The mechanical manipulation of yarn into fabric is the most versatile
method of manufacturing textile fabrics for a wide range of end-uses.
Types of Fabric:
There are three principal methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into textile fabrics:
1) interweaving (interlacing or interlacement),
2) interlooping and
3) intertwining.
All three methods have evolved from hand-manipulated techniques through their application on
primitive frames into sophisticated manufacturing operations on automated machinery.
Interweaving:
It is the intersection or interlacement of two sets of straight threads, warp (ends)
and weft (picks or filling), which cross and interweave at right angles to each other.
Weaving is by far the oldest and most common method of producing continuous
lengths of straight-edged fabric.
Fig: woven fabrics
b. lnterlooping:
It consists of forming yarn(s) into loops. The loops are also held together by the yarn passing
from one to the next. Knitting is the most common method of interloping and is second only to
weaving as a method of manufacturing textile products. It is
estimated that over seven million tons of knitted goods are produced annually
throughout the world.
C. Intertwining and twisting:
It includes a number of techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where threads
are caused to intertwine with each other at right angles or some other angles. These
techniques tend to produce special constructions whose uses are limited to very
specific purposes.
Nonwovens are flexible, porous products consisting of one or more fibre layers. The separate
fibres may either be preferentially oriented in one direction or may be deposited in a random
manner. They are bonded by chemical, thermal or mechanical processes into textile products.
Nonwovens are mainly planar structures.
Fabric Classification:
Woven Fabrics:
Woven fabrics are composed of longitudinal or warp threads and transverse or weft threads,
interlaced with one another according to the class of structure and form of design that are
desired.
Winding:
Winding is basically transferring a yarn from one type of package to another. This simple
definition may make the winding sound like a trivial process; however, it is an important and
necessary process that performs the following functions especially for ring spun yarns.
• Winding produces a yarn package that is suitable for further processing. Ring spinning
produces small packages of yarn (called spinner's packages or bobbins) which would be
depleted relatively quick during weft insertion or warping. Therefore, the amount of
yarn on several small packages is combined by splicing or knotting onto a single
package. Knotting has been replaced by splicing in modern winding machines.
The winding process provides an opportunity to clear yarn defects. Thin and thick
places, slubs, neps or loose fibres on the yarn are cleared during winding and, thus, the
overall quality of the yarn is improved. Staple yarns require this clearing operation most
Because they may have these kinds of faults more often.
Yarn guide:
There are two types of guides: closed and open. Closed guides require a yarn end to
thread, and open guides do not. Open guides, however, give less positive guiding.
Engineering issues here are guide smoothness, abrasion between yarn and guide
causing yarn damage. If the guide is too rough, damage of yarn due to abrasion will
occur. On the other hand, if the guide is too smooth, friction may develop. Guides
are usually made from hard stainless steels or from ceramics.
Tensioner:
The tension device maintains a proper tension in the yarn to achieve a uniform
package density. It also serves as a detector for excessively weak spots in the yarn
that break underthe added tension induced by the tension device.
There are three major types of tension devices; those are shown in the following
figure.
Capstan (or multiplicative):
The output tension depends on the input tension, coefficient of friction
between the yarn and the post (mu), and the total angle of warp (a):
Since mu, alpha and e are constants, Tout is· a constant multiple of the incoming
tension Tin (this is the reason why Capstan is called multiplicative). If Tin is
zero, so is the Tout·
Additive tensioner:
In this system, a dead weight or spring is used to apply a normal force (N)
to change the tension. The output tension is calculated by:
Math: How long will it take for a winder to wind 3.00 lbs of 16 Ne yarn if the winder operates at 745
yd/min. with the efficiency 95%?
We know that,
Time, t = length I speed
Here, L = Length of yarn in the package
Speed, V = 745 yd/min.
Weight of the yarn in the package, W = 3.00 lbs
Yarn count, Ne = 16
= 54.12 minutes (assuming no breaks or stops)